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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Sun, 19 Mar 2000 14:34:37 -0500 (EST) Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 14:34:37 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 80-96-list digest users Reply-to: 80-96-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #39 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 80-96-list Digest Sat, 18 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 039 In This Issue: F250 4x4 conversion Re: fuel guages cat-back exhaust speedo Oil & Filters Further Update- Thumpin' Floorboard. Thanks Gary ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Serian" Subject: F250 4x4 conversion Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 12:23:30 -0500 > I have an 89 F250 Supercab diesel, with only 115k miles, > 5 speed. It's had excellent care and I am considering > converting it to 4x4. The actual construction differences between the various F-series lies mostly in the suspension. The frame and body is the same, regardless of whether it is a 150 or a 250, or 350; the differnce is in what axles, suspension, and trim goes on it. If the 89 is typical of the 75-86 style of doing things, here is what you face : The 4x2 front suspension is coil spring, but the 4x4 is leaf spring on the F250 and 350. You would need to change the entire front suspension and axle setup. In the 76-86 F-series, coil spring 4x4 in the F150 is a Dana 44 or the Dana 44 IFS (independent front suspension) in the 80-86; the 250 and 350 use a monobeam solid front axle, typically a Dana 60. You will need a different extension housing for your transmission, a transfer case (NP205, NP208, BW1435 are pretty common and easy to get). You will need both driveshafts as well. It may or may not be necessary to change the output shaft of your transmission. One more hole in the floorboard for your transfer case shifter. ------------------------------ From: PSales264 aol.com Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 12:54:35 EST Subject: Re: fuel guages You need the 6 port because diesels use a return line to each tank, at idle diesel engines don't use any whereas much fuel as the fuel pump puts out hence the return line. Check with aftermarket suppliers. they are usually much less expensive. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 18:00:22 -0800 (PST) From: Tracy Stover Subject: cat-back exhaust I have a '95 F150 4X4 with a 300 & 4sp auto. This poor truck is terribly underpowered! I am thinking of buying some bolt-on performance parts to get a few more ponies out of the engine. One of the suggestions I received was installing a cat-back exhaust from Flowmaster. Has anyone tried this, & did it help at all? Some of the other suggestions I got were: performance computer chip 180* thermostat K&N filter (I have a Amsoil oiled foam filter in it now...was told it flows more air than a K&N) shift improver kit Any other suggestions? Thanks, Tracy __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ From: SOBFROGG webtv.net (Scott Mummery) Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 21:20:04 -0600 (CST) Subject: speedo Howdy, My truck has a annoying prob. The speedo bounces. If I am doing 55mph the speedo will bounce between 55 and 35 mph. The truck is a 95 F150 w/ 5.8L 4X4 w/ an auto trans. I just replaced the speed sensor in the rearend. No affect. Any suggestions??? Thanx Scott ------------------------------ From: apowell ezlink.com Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 20:28:26 -0700 Subject: Oil & Filters Chris McKinnon > It's oil change time since I'm up to about my 5K km and I was wondering what > brand of filter to buy. I seem to recall someone had a web page with a breakdown > of the ditterent brands but I can't seem to find it. Any point in going to > synthetic or semi-synthetic? Is there on brand that is better than the others? Chris, the oil filter page has already been cited - good study. I've spent some time with a can opener checking a cross-section of filters and reached some of the same conclusions cited. Last time I checked the oil filter site, he had not dissected my filter of choice for 20 years - the Amsoil filter. The filtration material is about 1 inch thick all around the filter, which is different from any other filter. Amsoil also includes a bypass valve and anti-drainback valve on every filter they make, and if memory serves, their filters take out particles larger than about 12 to 15 microns, which is super. If there's an Amsoil dealer in your area, he may have a display which shows the filter's construction - very interesting to see. That's my recommendation for a filter. For oil, ANY synthetic will be superior to any standard petroleum oil. Understand that all petro oils are excellent, but the synthetics offer better wicking qualities and better film persistence on metal parts, they have much superior resistance to breakdown from heat and mechanical wear, and their viscosity stays more accurate under service. Petro oils' viscosity changes during use more than you would like to know. My personal choices for synthetic motor oils are Amsoil and Mobil 1 because I like the price. In a brand new vehicle, I might go to Redline, which is even more expensive but which is a top-notch synthetic. Understand also that part of the benefit of synthetics is the ability to have increased intervals between oil changes because the oil holds up to wear and heat better. You cannot take advantage of this during a manufacturer's warranty period because they require you to change oil and filter at certain interals. I think I'm extremely conservative in changing oil every 6K miles and filters every 3K miles. I could easily run my symnthetic oil 12K miles with a clear conscience, but in my turbocharged cars I change earlier. I just changed my '93 F-150 4x4 over to synthetic motor oil at 106K miles this week. I also recently changed to synthetic ATF in the tranny and today I changed to synthetic gear oil in both front and rear differentials. Ford installed petro gear oil in this truck when new, but a call to the dealer confirmed that they use synthetic gear oil when servicing these differentials now. A couple of addresses for information about oil, synthetics and filters: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://rconcepts.com/beard/dragnet/drag/oilinfo.html http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilterstudy.html __ ++++++++++++++++++++WSU-CSU+++++++++++++++++ Al Powell Apowell EZlink.com 1958 Fiat 1200 Spyder "Transformabile" 1983 Datsun 280ZXT 1990 Audi 200 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ezlink.com/~powells/ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ------------------------------ From: "Dave Harmier" Subject: Further Update- Thumpin' Floorboard. Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 22:01:42 -0600 Okay, THOUGHT caliper was it. Now KNOW passenger side I Beam pivot bushing is it. All the rubber has pushed out letting the metal shell ride up against the bolt. How tough a job is it to replace? It looks like the bolt is easily loosened. How do I capture, and direct the end of the I Beam where I want it? Is it a job best left to a shop? Thanks for the wisdom you all provide every day!!!! Dave H. Houston, TX A stable of Ford Trucks ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 12:35:00 -0700 From: "Bernell Cloward" Subject: Thanks Gary I really appreciate all the info. Sounds like with me not knowing much more than how to change brakes and fan belts I better just keep looking for a good deal on a newer one. My neighbor has a 95 Pstroke I've been trying to talk him out of for over a year, and I think he's getting close. Any problems you're aware of with 95's that a newer one wouldn't have? Thanks again,. Bernie >>> gpeters3 lni.net 03/18 7:04 AM >>> I spent 3 months of my spare time engineering and building my van and the steering box was already perfectly located and I kept the original cross member but modified it for clearance. If I ever do this again I will find a 4x4 chassis and pop the body on it, that was a lot of work! Very satisfying but a lot of work :-) Keep in mind also that this was the very first 4x4 I ever owned or built so I had no clue about all the subtleties we discuss on this list but still managed to get it done pretty nicely. I also fabricated most of the brackets according to what I perceived they needed since I didn't have any to go by which took more time as well. I'm a good mechanic with lots of equipment and knowledge and it was a challenge to get all the parts coordinated for good handling. I studied the problems before hand, made a plan and went with it with some modifications along the way to my original plans as I think we all will agree seems to be the norm in a project like this. It came out very well, handled well and I enjoyed it a good many years but if you have to pay someone to do this you also add in the HUGE question mark as to their skill and ability and conscientiousness and honesty. I've seen some really botched up conversions done by so called pros so be carefull, that's a lot of money to waste :-( Used parts will cost you upwards of $1500 for the dana 60 and related parts probably. Labor could be several thousand depending on who you get and how much experience he has. A new dynatrac unit can cost over $2500 by itself and Boyce equipment only has the right hand fronts for about $1000, no ford's that I've been able to find there. It's possible if you used Dodge parts which typically fit many ford bolt patterns you could put one together for $2000 in parts or so and if you luck onto a good deal it could be less. I found two complete dana 44 front ends and radius arms for $250 when I did my van, the xfer case and adapter was another $200 and the 429 engine was $200 then I grabbed a bunch of old drive shafts that looks about right in a pile he had there and made up my own shafts which were surprisingly smooth up to about 60 mph. I put in a lot of ujoints due to this but it worked for me at the time :-) I didn't know about all this mail order stuff at the time or I would have taken advantage of some of it for sure :-) -- 78 Bronco Loving, Michigan Pot Hole Jumping Gary -- > I'm no mechanic, and will likely have to pay someone, unless I can talk someone into helping me. I was told I could have it done for $3000 or so, which is a lot cheaper than a new truck. Pretty sure it has I-beams and not leafs, as I think only 1-tons have. > > Are you figuring parts cost with used parts? New would likely be what, $3-4000? Probaby a grand just for the transfer case, and another for the axle? Do I need to replace the transmission too? ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. ------------------------------ End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #39 ********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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