Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages
contained in these archives without consent from the respective
author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on
any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by
individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors.

Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Sat, 18 Mar 2000 11:54:47 -0500 (EST)
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 11:54:47 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #38
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List

Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
message.
==========================================================

------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Fri, 17 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 038

In This Issue:
Converting to 4x4
Re: What is it?
Re: Water/ Condensation in Air Filter on 300 I-6 Problem
Got to cut down.....
Re: Converting to 4x4
I love this list...
Re: What is it?
Re: Converting to 4x4
Re: Octane and compression
Re: Converting to 4x4
Re: Lubricants
Re: Lubricants
Re: Lubricants
Re: What is it?
Re: What is it?
Re: Clutch problems
Re: Exhaust Manifold Replacement
I love this list...
Re: Converting to 4x4
fuel guages
Re: fuel guages

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 09:59:25 -0700
From: "Bernell Cloward" novell.com>
Subject: Converting to 4x4

I have an 89 F250 Supercab diesel, with only 115k miles, 5 speed. It's had excellent care and I am considering converting it to 4x4. Mainly because it is a good truck, and I doubt I could get more than $7-8000 selling it. I would have a better truck than anything I have found for under $15k.
Questions:
1. Has anyone done this and know what it costs?
2. Any inherent problems or othe downsides?
3. Know anywhere in Utah or surrounding states that does it?

Just joined this group, hope I'm doing this right and appreciate your responses.

Bernie


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: What is it?
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 12:11:58 -0500

Does your truck have cruise-control??
-----Original Message-----
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Thursday, March 16, 2000 11:07 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: What is it?


>I have been able to find, so far, that it has to do with the EGR.
>Chuck
>
>
>Chuck Sanborn FCA# 07175
>Torrance, CA
>1964 Falcon Sprint, 289 w/351W heads, etc
>86 F150 300 cu in six banger (Hers)
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Water/ Condensation in Air Filter on 300 I-6 Problem
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 12:15:15 -0500

Replace your PCV Valve. Maybe it is clogged with the glop you found on the
bottom of the breather.
-----Original Message-----
From: berninghausen2 juno.com juno.com>
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Thursday, March 16, 2000 11:39 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Water/ Condensation in Air Filter on 300 I-6
Problem


>I pulled the old thermostat and installed a new 195 degree 'heavy duty'
>model from CarQuest. Of course I took the extra 1/16 turn with the
>wrench and busted the housing in the process. Luckily Stant makes one
>(cast iron, not aluminum), so that was easily fixed.
>
>Short term results--temp gauge rides between the O and the R (almost
>vertical) instead of to the left of the N and the heater output is lots
>warmer. Condensation seems to be dissipating and there's only a tiny bit
>of the peanut butter looking stuff under the breather--used to be full of
>the glop. The breather hose (front hose; rear hose goes to the PCV)
>still has some water in it, so I pulled the filter to let it flow.
>
>Thermostats aren't the most precise devices; even a 5% variance might
>hold the temperature range too cool to evaporate this condensation.
>Looks to me like ensuring the engine runs at 195 degrees is a big part of
>the answer.
>
>Bill in Portland
>
>PS--the MSD5 is still zooming well, and I saw it in the Jegs catalog for
>80 bucks--everything goes on sale after you buy one!
>
>
>On Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:25:00 EST RiTruckGuy aol.com writes:
>> Its been a while since I've seen anything on this string, but I know
>> its
>> still a problem for me and several others with 300s. Anybody ever
>> find an
>> answer?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bill
>> '97 F150 SC 4X4 4.6L
>> '82 F100 Flareside 4.9
>
>
>________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Got to cut down.....
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 12:55:56 -0500

It's been a lot of fun on the lists but the time has come for me to back off
here at work to conserve my nerves so I will be leaving the two truck lists
here at work but may stay with it at home if I can keep up. Probably won't
be answering as many posts now for a while but hope to keep reading if I
can. Just wanted to let Y'all know why my share of the band width may
shrink to a trickle but I'll see some of you at the Forge in May :-)

You can still find me on the AFTE, PF and Core lists :-) I have to try to
get more calm and there is already so much stimulation here in the shop due
to noise and such that the lists get me to excited for my current condition
:-( I can't even talk about my retirement plans anymore without having an
episode :-(

If you respond to this, please send it to me personally, not the list :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Converting to 4x4
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 13:07:54 -0500

If you have to pay someone to do it I would say no but if you want to tackle
it yourself then it's possible and even practical depending on it's
condition and availability of parts etc.. It is a big job and brackets must
be lined up precisely for good handling etc..

I converted a van using bronco parts but the van already had the proper
steering geometry and box location. Your 2wd truck will have to have a
different box or at least move it forward to a new location etc.. New
radius arm brackets or leaf spring setup will have to be added unless your
2wd already has leaf springs in which case that part of it will be a snap.
Either suspension or body will have to be lifted to allow for the front end
and of course the larger tires you will be adding (without a doubt :-))

If you do it yourself it could cost less than a grand if you buy the parts
right or could be several grand if you have to have help or farm it out and
beware that not all conversion artists are artists, nor are they
necessarily honest :-(

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>I have an 89 F250 Supercab diesel, with only 115k miles, 5
>speed. It's had excellent care and I am considering converting
>it to 4x4.

------------------------------

From: Fred Moreno dualcurve.com>
Subject: I love this list...
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 11:10:22 -0700

Don annouced;

I do have some questions though. I remember when vehicles
had 6 volt
batteries. When 12 volts came along, that is when I noticed
the ballistor.
I always thought its purpose was to save the points from
burning up. You
installation instructions said to rewire the coil to
eliminate the ballistor
and since points are no longer used I saw no harm in doing
so. However, I
still have a standard coil, standard Spark plug wires and
standard spark
plugs. I expect that this will have some affect on their
useful life. I
noticed in your catalog some heavy duty Coil and Spark plug
wites. These are
particularly stressed because of heat build up in the engine
compartment on
RV's. Since I have recently replaced them, how soon should I
plan on
upgrading them again and do you have any suggestions on
spark plugs and
gaps?

Phred's reply;

Keep a spare coil in the motor home, you are putting more energy in the OEM
components and may cause it to fail prematurely. Notorious for this scenario
are the Dudge OEM oil-filled coils on the older vehicles with these types of
high energy ignition upgrades. There has not been a pattern with the Ford
oil filled coils dying out after a high energy ignition installation, but
you never know. Find a high output coil at your favorite parts store and
definitely do so with a digital volt-ohmeter. First disconnect your coil
input wires, Coil + and Coil -, and then measure the resistance across each
the two coil terminals. Typically you will measure something in the ball
park of 1.4 ohms to 3.0 ohms of resistance.
You want to replace it with a coil that has a lower reading across C+ and C
-. Accel, Mallory (if you can still find their products) and MSD all have
such coils. Our Blaster coil would give you a reading of 0.7 ohms.
Now this is a general rule of thumb for coils, might be some exceptions out
there, but in general you can't make the situation worst by following this
rule.
I would be more concerned about your spark plug wires, because they too
must contain more energy and they are in a hostile environment - don't take
that personally, it has nothing to do with Sicilians.... At the first signs
of arcing and shorting (this usually happens right at the exhaust manifold)
yank them off. I know for a fact that our 8.5 mm stuff holds up great under
extreme heat conditions, certainly others on the list will offer more input
on spark plug wires since I can't speak for other brands because I have not
experienced them.
Stick with your standard plugs, you might gap them a little larger (+5
thousandths) but its not necessary.
Glad you're deciding to keep the motor home.

So Don are you going to tell how many beaded neclaces you gave away at
Mardi Gras...any photos?? Inquiring minds want to know.

Chuck wrote:

<< I finally have gotten the timing set at 10~ advance without the SPOUT
being
hoked up. When I connect the SPOUT I thought I was supposed to see a
jump in timing but I get nothing. I rev up the engine..no advance. If
this
damn thing had a vacuum advance and less smog sh*t I might be able
to figure out my problem but.....what causes the "no advance" situation?
Thanks again,
Chuck >>

Hi Chuck,

You are suppose to see the timing move up at least by 4-6 degrees at least.
Did you shut off the key before reconnecting the SPOUT connector in the
system? Does your SPOUT connector plug have two pink wires and is located in
the same harness as the TFI module?
Sorry but the damn thing does have vacuum advance, it's electronically
controlled,...maybe one signal is not reaching the computer (garbage in =
garbage out phenomena). Have any installation involving electrical
connections??
You should see 14 degrees or more after the SPOUT connector is reconnected,
but revving the engine may not show you more than that ( I think this is
correct but not 100% sure) anyways because the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
knows you are not driving since it is not registering the transmission
turning.
What about the Check Engine Light, is it illuminated? I saw where you
mention the engine is '86 4.9L. Nothing super fancy or special with that
motor except for its dependability. '86 was one of the early years of TFI-IV
system, your SPOUT connector is the bullet type of connector that pulls
apart. The TFI module should be mounted on your distributor which is a bad
place for electronics to reside. Your distributor is in a sense a very large
heat sink. Has the truck quit on you and or been difficult to start lately.
These would be signs that your TFI module is wanting to leave.

Gary wrote;

If I am misunderstanding please let me know but my understanding of Octane
is that it has nothing to do with the "rate" of burn or the BTU's but only
the ignition and "autoignition" temp. It takes less energy to light low
octane than high octane and it also takes less heat to cause it to self
ignite or spontaneously ignite causing what we call spark knock. Low
compression engines will run better on low octane simply because it lights
easier and the flame will propagate easier with less heat than high octane.

Yes you are absolutely right, Gary but the burn-rate characteristic is a
by-product of what it takes to make gasoline a high octane fuel. Alex's
describtion of the various components/molecules of high octane fuel are
exact (he must have a copy of the Bosch bible) and their effect on the
gasoline besides providing the anti-knock ability is also a slower flame
front. Was this intentional, I don't know, but in chemistry, I've learned
you may achieve your goals, but usually with some side-effects tacked on.
By the way, Alex, me no be an engineer, just an undergrade Physics major
who hopes to graduate in Dec(?). I love to tinker and figure out how things
work, but like most of us on this list, don't really have the time and/or
money to play. And my name and the word "eloquently" have rarely been used
in the same sentence AND in a positive manner. Thanks.

The shocks both front and back on the F-150 are kaput. Looking at some Bill
Steins (sp?) because they are suppose to be the best - we don't want to put
the Sears Truck shocks because they are barely one year old, okay but they
have 40K miles...
Any thoughts experiences or comments on this selection?

Well I await todays posting.

Phred KD5AQB
95 F-150 4X4 EB propane or gasoline powered 5.0L, 5 speed and 173K miles.


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 10:11:26 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: What is it?

At 12:11 PM 3/17/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Does your truck have cruise-control??

Nope,,,,but I did find out that it is the adapter plate under the carb,
thanks to list member Stacy Fisher.
Chuck


------------------------------

From: Greg Carter entrust.com>
Subject: Re: Converting to 4x4
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 13:25:17 -0500

Hi,

A company that advertises in the back of the 4x4 mags offers a conversion.
They have a web page too, but I don't seem to have it saved in my bookmarks.
I'll look for the ad when I get home.

However what they offer is some brackets to locate the leaf springs. After
you do that all you need is all the steering components off a 4x4 and the
front diff. Besides the obvious trans and transfer case. Oh yeah, then cut
the hold in the cab for the transfer case selector.

You could convert to a Dana 50 or Dana 44 front if you are not serious into
off road. If you are, or snow plow then think about the Dana 60. But Dana
60 are highly sought after and carry a premium at the junk yards. Expect to
pay anywhere from 1000 to 1500 at a junk yard. Follow the link below, its
an article on converting to a Dana 60 in a F-250. Besides the leaf springs,
everything else is similar to what you would be doing (Steering components).
However the truck was 4x4 to begin with.

Your best bet is to find a totaled parts truck that is a 4x4. Since it
sounds like this isn't a necessity, take your time and eventually one will
show up for a good price.

Greg Carter
Entrust Technologies - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.entrust.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/buildup/dana60.html


-----Original Message-----
From: Bernell Cloward [mailto:BCLOWARDnovell.com]
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2000 11:59 AM
To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Converting to 4x4


I have an 89 F250 Supercab diesel, with only 115k miles, 5 speed. It's had
excellent care and I am considering converting it to 4x4. Mainly because it
is a good truck, and I doubt I could get more than $7-8000 selling it. I
would have a better truck than anything I have found for under $15k.
Questions:
1. Has anyone done this and know what it costs?
2. Any inherent problems or othe downsides?
3. Know anywhere in Utah or surrounding states that does it?

Just joined this group, hope I'm doing this right and appreciate your
responses.

Bernie

==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
message.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 07:49:35 +1100
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: Octane and compression

Hi Alex,


FULSZBRONCaol.com wrote:

> I learned long ago that unleaded fuel builds carbon deposits in the
> combustion chamber faster that the leaded gas of yester-year, and that using
> a higher-than-necessary octane will compound the carbon build-up.

Alex, I don't pretend to know all the answers, and I'm no genius, and as you
know, I will ask questions, but from my experience and the expertise of my far
more learned colleagues, that was one, of many reasons for changing over to ULP
fuel, less crap to actually build up in the engine. The usual culprit now is Oil.

> Then, I read the post from Les down in OZ, and the lowest octane there is
> around 91...! Now, I'm confused. Is everything I thought I know about
> petrol wrong? Can I go to a higher grade fuel, bump up my ignition timing
> and reap the benefits of increased power w/o the fear of excessive carbon
> build-up or overheating the catalitic converter?

I can assure you after spending a small fortune on importing an effie, not to be
confused with a locally produced effie, the reality is, not too many are going to
rebuild the engine just to handle the apparent higher octane fuel used here. In
fact as I have already indicated 70% will be fed a diet of LPG at 99 octane or/&
ULP at 91 octane. So we take you timing Info and slap 10-15 deg on top.... (OK
maybe not quite that rough, but it does fall down to Trial & Error) .... please
Phred, don't have a heart attack over us now ......

> Les, are you in a country
> full of high-compression hot-rodders, and laughing at the us poor slobs with
> our petrol powered, low compression lead sleds? And, how DO you fill a
> bottle with petrol while standing on your head?

I put your question to the brains trust, a few mechanic type blokes this morning,
that were sitting around admiring a brand new K. Black engine, that is to be dual
turboed on avgas (100 octane) being prepared to be installed in a boat, and how
long will it last? The unified and unrepentant answer to your question was 'YES'

Oh ... and fill the bottle SSllooowly .....;-))

> And one more thing, since
> I'm on a rant and 95% (or more) of the readers of this have lost interest by
> now and moved on to other things: wonder why we (USA) call benzene
> petroleum fuel ''gas'' when it really is a liquid? LPG is a gas. CNG is a
> gas.
> Alex

If the other list members have, as you put it 'moved on by now' then that's their
problem .... and how do you think I feel, in 'conversation' having to jump from
'gas' to 'petrol' or 'lpg' and 'propane' depending who the audience is, and
knowing it means different things to different people. ;-))

Oh, and an interesting fact that may amuse you, the O2 sensor in the avgas lead
fueled boat lasts about 40-50 hrs before it is buggered with lead contamination,
and replaced. A spare is always carried.
Alex, once again I am in debt to you for your precise explanations on the octane
issue as well as other issues. It helps to explain the great differences that do
exist and more importantly, Why.


...... I'm still having Fun anyway .... usually in a Ford .... ;-))

regards
Les
Lost in the Land of OZ




------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 14:53:51 -0700
From: "Bernell Cloward" novell.com>
Subject: Re: Converting to 4x4

Thanks Gary and Greg,

I'm no mechanic, and will likely have to pay someone, unless I can talk someone into helping me. I was told I could have it done for $3000 or so, which is a lot cheaper than a new truck. Pretty sure it has I-beams and not leafs, as I think only 1-tons have.

Are you figuring parts cost with used parts? New would likely be what, $3-4000? Probaby a grand just for the transfer case, and another for the axle? Do I need to replace the transmission too?

If I were to talk a mechanic-type into helping me, how many hours do u think it would take?

Bernie

>>> gpeters3visteon.com 03/17/00 11:07AM >>>
If you have to pay someone to do it I would say no but if you want to tackle
it yourself then it's possible and even practical depending on it's
condition and availability of parts etc.. It is a big job and brackets must
be lined up precisely for good handling etc..

I converted a van using bronco parts but the van already had the proper
steering geometry and box location. Your 2wd truck will have to have a
different box or at least move it forward to a new location etc.. New
radius arm brackets or leaf spring setup will have to be added unless your
2wd already has leaf springs in which case that part of it will be a snap.
Either suspension or body will have to be lifted to allow for the front end
and of course the larger tires you will be adding (without a doubt :-))

If you do it yourself it could cost less than a grand if you buy the parts
right or could be several grand if you have to have help or farm it out and
beware that not all conversion artists are artists, nor are they
necessarily honest :-(

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>I have an 89 F250 Supercab diesel, with only 115k miles, 5
>speed. It's had excellent care and I am considering converting
>it to 4x4.
==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
message.


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 16:54:04 -0800
From: Chris McKinnon cnx.net>
Subject: Re: Lubricants

It's oil change time since I'm up to about my 5K km and I was wondering what
brand of filter to buy. I seem to recall someone had a web page with a
breakdown of the ditterent brands but I can't seem to find it. Any point in
going to synthetic or semi-synthetic? Is there on brand that is better than
the others?\
Enough question already!
Chris
'84 F150 w/ original rust!
351W on propane
NP 435
NP 208 3.50LS
289K Km


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 20:37:30 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki little-mountain.com>
Subject: Re: Lubricants

>Well Wayne, I would check with a Ford dealer. The
>right oil to use depends on the temperature. In
>colder climates, use lower viscosity oils, and vice
>versa for warmer climates. I would guess that 10W 30
>would be a good all around viscosity. Personally, I
>run 10W-40 in my 300. As for my manual tranny, I use

I use and recommend 15W-40 for all year.

As far as the transmission goes, my 5 speed has 50 weight in it now.
Originally had ATF, but it leaks too bad to keep that stuff in there. Works
fine on 50 weight, but the syncros are sometimes sluggish for a while at 0
degrees F.



Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."
Sick of the high fuel tax? Write your congressman
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.house.gov/writerep/



------------------------------

From: "Ed Mount" cnip.net>
Subject: Re: Lubricants
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 18:57:59 -0600

Chris, there was quite a lengthy discussion on oil filters on this list last
year, and it was very eye-opening and informative. The following URL seems
to be a good one for one man's analysis of oil filter construction. I refer
to it often. I used to use Fram, but after all the discussions, I don't,
anymore. Wix was one brand that was mentioned as being a good filter, and
the people at Car Quest tell me their house brand filters are made by Wix,
so I have been using that one lately. I also use Mobil 1 synthetic oil in
my 94 F150 5.8L.

Ed

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilterstudy.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris McKinnon cnx.net>
To: <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2000 6:54 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Lubricants


| It's oil change time since I'm up to about my 5K km and I was wondering
what
| brand of filter to buy. I seem to recall someone had a web page with a
| breakdown of the ditterent brands but I can't seem to find it. Any point
in
| going to synthetic or semi-synthetic? Is there on brand that is better
than
| the others?\
| Enough question already!
| Chris
| '84 F150 w/ original rust!
| 351W on propane
| NP 435
| NP 208 3.50LS
| 289K Km
|
| ==========================================================
| To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
| the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
| message.
|
|
|



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 18:41:43 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: What is it?

At 08:07 AM 3/17/00 -0500, you wrote:
>It's the adapter plate under the carb. The round thing on the front is your
>EGR valve.

I thank you very much for your information, Stacy

Chuck


------------------------------

From: MRStace84aol.com
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 21:50:26 EST
Subject: Re: What is it?

In a message dated 3/17/00 9:42:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
slammerdeltanet.com writes:

<< >It's the adapter plate under the carb. The round thing on the front is
your
>EGR valve.

I thank you very much for your information, Stacy

Chuck
>>


No problem, anytime. Glad I could help out.

Stacy Fisher
84 F150 4x4
98 Ranger XLT 4x4

------------------------------

From: kb9odg.markjuno.com
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 21:04:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Clutch problems

Welcome to the list. I had this problem in my '87 F-150 when I bought
it. It ended up being the pressure plate levers were worn down just
enough that when you pushed in on the clutch, it wouldn't release enough.
I'd have that checked out.

- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
'66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
tires ...
'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, staduim truck sounding, boring no
more


> Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 18:56:23 -0500
> From: ITS vermontel.com>
> Subject: Clutch problems
>
> Hello to all,
>
> I joined the group today to see if anyone could give me some insight
> on
> a clutch problem that I am having. I have a 1996 F250 Heavy Duty
> with a
> 7.3 liter Powerstroke Turbo Diesel. The problem that I am having is
> my
> clutch will not fully disengage. My clutch doesn't slip at all, in
> fact
> I recently pulled a 4,000 lb. trailer across the country and back
> with
> no problems, however, when I am stopped I have a really hard time
> getting it into gear. I have heard where there are long throw kits
> available for the clutches and that this was a known problem for
> diesels
>
> through 95 but nothing for 96. Has anyone else had a problem with
> their
> clutches not fully disengaging? Is there a kit for my truck? I have
> to
> put the pedal all the way to the floor (I even had to remover the
> rubber
>
> bumper where the pedal hits to get enough play) to get it into gear
> and
> even then it grinds sometimes. Shifts up fine when driving, grinds
> occasionally going down into 4th. Any help is greatly appreciated,
> don't
>
> know how much longer I am going to be able to drive it this way.
> Please
> let me know if there is anything known out there.
>
> Thanks -- Chadwick
>
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 20:15:19 +1100
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Replacement

Hi,

What was/is the condition of the CAT(S) ????

Les
Lost in the Land of OZ


Shawn & Jennifer Clark wrote:

> FYI, for those of you with similar problems, and those of you who enjoy
> solving minor mysteries.
>
> Had my exhaust system rebuilt today. This including replacing the broken
> passenger side exhaust manifold on this '91 302. Now that I have the old
> one off and in hand, I'm surprised by what I see. There is a coating of
> what appears to be darkened molten material from the runners from the rear
> two cylinders back (but not the front two). I have not yet characterized
> the material, stabbing it with a screwdriver accomplishes little--it is
> pretty hard stuff, not carbon like? Has a crystalline appearance although
> sooty black with some brick red and has a rough, flow-sculpted appearance
> like weld splatter. My training is not metallurgical but it looks like the
> metal got too hot. Besides the complete failure across the manifold just
> before the rear most runner, there are cracks in every other exhaust runner
> (on this side) and several other locations as well. Any guesses as to what
> I'm looking at?
>
> The previous owner maintained it better than most, although he may have
> waited a bit long for a *full* tune up. I know he towed his tractor some
> with it so I'm sure the engine had been worked hard. I've had the truck
> for about 25,000 miles and found the manifold problem within a week of
> buying it. Engine is strong compared to all the others I have driven, oil
> usage is typical for domestic vehicle (1 qt every 3,000 miles). Get 13.3
> mpg, city or highway, auto w/supercab.
>
> I'm leaning towards overheating due to crossfiring, etc in the rear two
> cylinders. I have seen this sort of problem in other F-150's and recently
> developed severe problems before taking exhaustive measures to change to
> NGK plugs and to carefully separate plug wires. Seems like the
> stereotypical Ford ignition problems could result in some pretty hot gas in
> the discharge of these two cylinders. Towing would exacerbate the problem
>
> At this time, I can't rule out head gasket problems leading to a loss of
> coolant that might have formed crystalline deposits on the exhaust manifold
> and/or resulted in overheating. I have had some problems with slow loss of
> coolant in the past, but suspect rotting hoses were the culprit (one hard
> to reach hose finally developed a misting leak before I found it.)
>
> Anyway, I figure someone out there has seen just this sort of thing in the
> past and knows exactly what sort of problem I'm looking at.
>
> Shawn Clark
> e-mail: sd&jkclarktyler.net


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 20:15:56 +1100
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: I love this list...


Phred said, amongst other things:

The shocks both front and back on the F-150 are kaput. Looking at some
Bill
Steins (sp?) because they are suppose to be the best - we don't want to
put
the Sears Truck shocks because they are barely one year old, okay but
they
have 40K miles...
Any thoughts experiences or comments on this selection?

Well I await todays posting.

Phred KD5AQB
95 F-150 4X4 EB propane or gasoline powered 5.0L, 5 speed and 173K
miles.

Hi Phred,

Woow, Bilstien Shock's - What can be said ? IMHO, Top shelf stuff,
usually
reflected in the price, that is of course assuming you get the 'good
stuff' there too.
I ended up settling for the adjustable Koni's, and still not a
particularly cheap option.

.... but I'm still having fun in a Ford on LPG ...


regards
Les
Lost in the Land of OZ

------------------------------

From: "Gary R. Peters" lni.net>
Subject: Re: Converting to 4x4
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 06:04:50 -0800

I spent 3 months of my spare time engineering and building my van and the
steering box was already perfectly located and I kept the original cross
member but modified it for clearance. If I ever do this again I will find a
4x4 chassis and pop the body on it, that was a lot of work! Very satisfying
but a lot of work :-)

Keep in mind also that this was the very first 4x4 I ever owned or built so
I had no clue about all the subtleties we discuss on this list but still
managed to get it done pretty nicely. I also fabricated most of the
brackets according to what I perceived they needed since I didn't have any
to go by which took more time as well.

I'm a good mechanic with lots of equipment and knowledge and it was a
challenge to get all the parts coordinated for good handling. I studied the
problems before hand, made a plan and went with it with some modifications
along the way to my original plans as I think we all will agree seems to be
the norm in a project like this. It came out very well, handled well and I
enjoyed it a good many years but if you have to pay someone to do this you
also add in the HUGE question mark as to their skill and ability and
conscientiousness and honesty. I've seen some really botched up conversions
done by so called pros so be carefull, that's a lot of money to waste :-(

Used parts will cost you upwards of $1500 for the dana 60 and related parts
probably. Labor could be several thousand depending on who you get and how
much experience he has. A new dynatrac unit can cost over $2500 by itself
and Boyce equipment only has the right hand fronts for about $1000, no
ford's that I've been able to find there. It's possible if you used Dodge
parts which typically fit many ford bolt patterns you could put one together
for $2000 in parts or so and if you luck onto a good deal it could be less.
I found two complete dana 44 front ends and radius arms for $250 when I did
my van, the xfer case and adapter was another $200 and the 429 engine was
$200 then I grabbed a bunch of old drive shafts that looks about right in a
pile he had there and made up my own shafts which were surprisingly smooth
up to about 60 mph. I put in a lot of ujoints due to this but it worked for
me at the time :-) I didn't know about all this mail order stuff at the
time or I would have taken advantage of some of it for sure :-)

--
78 Bronco Loving, Michigan
Pot Hole Jumping Gary
--

> I'm no mechanic, and will likely have to pay someone, unless I can talk
someone into helping me. I was told I could have it done for $3000 or so,
which is a lot cheaper than a new truck. Pretty sure it has I-beams and not
leafs, as I think only 1-tons have.
>
> Are you figuring parts cost with used parts? New would likely be what,
$3-4000? Probaby a grand just for the transfer case, and another for the
axle? Do I need to replace the transmission too?



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 09:12:33 -0600
From: Tom Wiggins earthlink.net>
Subject: fuel guages

Hi guys! I need help with my fuel gauges on my 87 F250, 6.9 diesel.
When I top both tanks, the gauges go out of site on the high side. They
don't come down gradually as the fuel is used. When they come down, it's
all the way to empty. Is there some type of voltage regulator behind
the guages that control this? Also I believe m fuel switch over valve
might be bad. It has 6 ports and the dealer wants 142$ for a new one
less the 25% discount. Question, why can't I replace this with a 3 port
one? Do the gas versions use a 6 port valve? I can buy an after market 3
port for less than 50$. Thanks Tom Wiggins from Valley Center, Ks


------------------------------

From: "Gary R. Peters" lni.net>
Subject: Re: fuel guages
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 11:55:35 -0800

There is a voltage regulator in the dash on the older ones and I imagine
they use something similar on the new ones. On older ones it looks like a
9v battery attached somewhere in the back side of the dash, near the gauges.
A bad dash ground can also do things like this or bad chassis to frame
ground.

My guess is that there are return lines which go through the valve?

--
78 Bronco Loving, Michigan
Pot Hole Jumping Gary
--

> all the way to empty. Is there some type of voltage regulator behind
> the guages that control this? Also I believe m fuel switch over valve
> might be bad. It has 6 ports and the dealer wants 142$ for a new one
> less the 25% discount. Question, why can't I replace this with a 3 port



------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #38
**********************************
----------------------------------------------------------
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List

Send posts to 80-96-listford-trucks.com

If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing
list, send an email to:

listarford-trucks.com

with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of
the message.

Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
----------------------------------------------------------

....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.