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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Fri, 17 Mar 2000 11:52:33 -0500 (EST)
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 11:52:33 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #37
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------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Thu, 16 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 037

In This Issue:
Re: Lubricants
Retro-fitting 94' Interior
Clutch problems
Re: Clutch problems
Re: Clutch problems
Re: computer on 91 ford truck
Re: Clutch problems
Brake lights
Re: 300 distributor
Re: computer on 91 ford truck
Re: Clutch problems
Re: Clutch problems
Re: Clutch problems
What is it?
Re: Water/ Condensation in Air Filter on 300 I-6
Re: What is it?
Re: Thumpin' Floorboard F-350 Crew
Re: Water/ Condensation in Air Filter on 300 I-6 Problem
R-134A Conversion
ABS Brake Light won't go out
refinery in Sinclair, Wyoming
Re: Hi Octane Statements
Re: ABS Brake Light won't go out
Re: Water/ Condensation in Air Filter on 300 I-6
Re: What is it?
Re: Clutch problems
Re: Lubricants
Re: Retro-fitting 94' Interior
Re: computer on 91 ford truck
Re: 1990 F150 Fuel Pump
Re: Lubricants
Re: 300 distributor
Re: Brake lights

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 15:26:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Zachary Colvin yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lubricants

Well Wayne, I would check with a Ford dealer. The
right oil to use depends on the temperature. In
colder climates, use lower viscosity oils, and vice
versa for warmer climates. I would guess that 10W 30
would be a good all around viscosity. Personally, I
run 10W-40 in my 300. As for my manual tranny, I use
85W-90. The transfer case has ATF in it, and the
diffs have straight 90W gear oil. (More like grease.)
I don't use synthetics, due to the expense. My truck
leaks oil like a sieve.
The 300 is a very forgiving engine, and you can fill
the oil pan with just about any lubricant in an
emergency, although it may shorten the life of the
engine. I used to occasionally dump ATF into my 351M
with 300 thousand miles to clean the lifters out. :)

[Maybe one of these days I'll replace all the gaskets
on my truck and not have to buy oil in bulk.]

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: "shannon hoyt" hotmail.com>
Subject: Retro-fitting 94' Interior
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 23:45:58 GMT

>>Hey Guys,
Sorry I haven't been on in a while. I was going to give all of you a big
thanks for your help a while back with some oil leak problems I
had. It took my clutch going out before I fixed the "two" leaks, but the 94'
is runnin smooth now.
Listen, not to praise all of you any less than you deserve, but here are my
two new questions?
I want to do some "conversion" style, or retro-fitting type of stuff to my
94 F-150. He's got the Inline 300, 4.9 under the hood.
Right now though it is mainly interior work. For most of what I want
to do I can find in Catalogs.
Here is the thing though, in the cab, just behind the steering wheel to the
right is like a 3x4-5 inch rectangular piece that I was wondering, "Can I
pop that out in any way to add something else in it's place?"
I am wondering because, before I got this truck, I test drove a 93' that had
an automatic rear slider window switch there. Is it hard to remove, has
anyone ever attempted it before?
The last question towards interior work is the steering wheel. I want to
modify it a little, but I want to keep the main ford design and airbag, for
safety reasons mostly. Does anyone know of a company that can do this, or
maybe is there a number to a Ford Parts Specialty Dept. that can maybe help
out with some specs to a design? Being a Volunteer Firefighter, I know that
any type of messing with the Wheel itself with a charge still to the airbag
will cause it to deploy. That is why I realize that a company will either
need to design a wheel for me, or if someone can work with the design
leaving everything somewhat as is.
Any help with these problems as always is greatly appreciated!

--- A quick note, I do know about the screws and nuts on the back of the
wheel, but who can I talk to, or how do I go about
making the necessary changes to it. Is this possible. For an idea at where
I want to go with this would be, basically
the removal of the top and bottow of the wheel, leaving the 3, and 9 handle
positions attached and then smoothing things down
and thicken them for a sleek look. The remainder of the interior
modifications would bring everything together.

The 94' in Iowa

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 18:56:23 -0500
From: ITS vermontel.com>
Subject: Clutch problems

Hello to all,

I joined the group today to see if anyone could give me some insight on
a clutch problem that I am having. I have a 1996 F250 Heavy Duty with a
7.3 liter Powerstroke Turbo Diesel. The problem that I am having is my
clutch will not fully disengage. My clutch doesn't slip at all, in fact
I recently pulled a 4,000 lb. trailer across the country and back with
no problems, however, when I am stopped I have a really hard time
getting it into gear. I have heard where there are long throw kits
available for the clutches and that this was a known problem for diesels

through 95 but nothing for 96. Has anyone else had a problem with their
clutches not fully disengaging? Is there a kit for my truck? I have to
put the pedal all the way to the floor (I even had to remover the rubber

bumper where the pedal hits to get enough play) to get it into gear and
even then it grinds sometimes. Shifts up fine when driving, grinds
occasionally going down into 4th. Any help is greatly appreciated, don't

know how much longer I am going to be able to drive it this way. Please
let me know if there is anything known out there.

Thanks -- Chadwick


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 19:13:10 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki little-mountain.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch problems

>Hello to all,
>
>I joined the group today to see if anyone could give me some insight on
>a clutch problem that I am having. I have a 1996 F250 Heavy Duty with a
>7.3 liter Powerstroke Turbo Diesel. The problem that I am having is my
>clutch will not fully disengage. My clutch doesn't slip at all, in fact
>I recently pulled a 4,000 lb. trailer across the country and back with
>no problems, however, when I am stopped I have a really hard time
>getting it into gear. I have heard where there are long throw kits
>available for the clutches and that this was a known problem for diesels
>
>through 95 but nothing for 96. Has anyone else had a problem with their
>clutches not fully disengaging? Is there a kit for my truck? I have to
>put the pedal all the way to the floor (I even had to remover the rubber
>

I had the same problem with our 87 diesel. There is a snap-in bushing
available from your Ford dealer for under a buck that cures the problem. My
problem though is the problem has come back a month later. There are no
adjustments to these dumb clutches, but maybe someone makes an aftermarket
kit.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."
Sick of the high fuel tax? Write your congressman
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.house.gov/writerep/



------------------------------

From: PSales264 aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 19:19:24 EST
Subject: Re: Clutch problems

on my 85 there is adjustment on the push rod from the pedal through the fire
wall.
you adjust it in the cab under the dash. best of luck PHIL

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 19:38:23 -0500
From: S Spaulding worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: computer on 91 ford truck

True of the '91 as well.

bennettr hiwaay.net wrote:
>
> Not sure on the 1991 but the older model trucks have a fuel pump safety
> switch located under the dash on the drivers side just above the brake
> peddle that shuts off power to the pumps in an accident. It has a reset
> button on the top of it and they are known to occasionally trip for no
> apparent reason.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of hogan
> Sent: Friday, January 04, 1980 7:17 AM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] computer on 91 ford truck
>
> have a1991 Ford Truck F-150 4x4 Larit extended cab pick up. I am having
> trouble getting power to the in tank fuef pump on both tanks.I am wondering
> if the part of the computer that controls the power to the pump might not
> be functioning . The manual I have shows a 60 pin out connection on the
> computer. My computer only has a 14 pin out . Can any body tell me where I
> can find a wire color chart for a14 pin out. Many thanks for any help any
> body can give.
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 20:06:52 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki little-mountain.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch problems

>on my 85 there is adjustment on the push rod from the pedal through the fire
>wall.
>you adjust it in the cab under the dash. best of luck PHIL

Does the 85 have a hydraulic clutch?


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."
Sick of the high fuel tax? Write your congressman
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.house.gov/writerep/



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 17:28:53 -0800
From: TABrick bigfoot.com>
Subject: Brake lights

Hello to the list
Of course I've joined the list because I have a problem with my truck.
Here goes.
I have a 94 F150 4X4 4.9. The brake lights & turn
signals have stopped working. I've checked the fuses and bulbs and all
seem OK. The turn signals & 4 way flasher work fine on the front of the
truck but not on the back. The tail lights & backup lights work fine. I
undid the wiring harness at the back of the truck and the connection
looks good. Also the ABS light comes on every now and again for a
minute or two. Any ideas what might cause this? Any advice is much
appreciated.
Thanks.


--
Sail a Soling and help keep keel boats in the Olympics.

------------------------------

From: "Gill, Timothy M." usfk.korea.army.mil>
Subject: Re: 300 distributor
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 10:22:08 +0900



> ----------
> From: Zachary Colvin[SMTP:t1tpu11er yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2000 2:22 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] 300 distributor
>
> I was wondering if any companies make performance
> distributors for the 300 I-6. I plan on buying an MSD
> 6 ignition later on, but I would also like to put a
> distributor in if there is one available.
> Thanks
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>

------------------------------

From: "Steve Schmeckpeper" home.com>
Subject: Re: computer on 91 ford truck
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 19:22:41 -0600

Hogie, Don't forget to check the wires and connectors going to the fuel
reset button. Everything should be good'n tight and wires should show no
signs of overheating.
8^>
Smeck

----- Original Message -----
From: Tim and Pam Allgire williams-net.com>
To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2000 11:07 AM
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: computer on 91 ford truck


> On my '94 F-150 the fuel reset button is behind the kick panel on the
> passenger side,just below the dash.Not sure where it is on a '91.



------------------------------

From: "Ed Mount" cnip.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch problems
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 18:42:27 -0600

I had this problem with my car. It was caused by low clutch hydraulic fluid
in the reservoir. Don't know if your truck has a hydraulic clutch, but if
so, you might check the hydraulic fluid level in the clutch reservoir.

Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: ITS vermontel.com>
To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2000 5:56 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] Clutch problems


| Hello to all,
|
| I joined the group today to see if anyone could give me some insight on
| a clutch problem that I am having. I have a 1996 F250 Heavy Duty with a
| 7.3 liter Powerstroke Turbo Diesel. The problem that I am having is my
| clutch will not fully disengage. My clutch doesn't slip at all, in fact
| I recently pulled a 4,000 lb. trailer across the country and back with
| no problems, however, when I am stopped I have a really hard time
| getting it into gear. I have heard where there are long throw kits
| available for the clutches and that this was a known problem for diesels
|
| through 95 but nothing for 96. Has anyone else had a problem with their
| clutches not fully disengaging? Is there a kit for my truck? I have to
| put the pedal all the way to the floor (I even had to remover the rubber
|
| bumper where the pedal hits to get enough play) to get it into gear and
| even then it grinds sometimes. Shifts up fine when driving, grinds
| occasionally going down into 4th. Any help is greatly appreciated, don't
|
| know how much longer I am going to be able to drive it this way. Please
| let me know if there is anything known out there.
|
| Thanks -- Chadwick
|
| ==========================================================
| To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
| the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
| message.
|
|
|



------------------------------

From: PSales264 aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 20:49:26 EST
Subject: Re: Clutch problems

yup hydraulic it is. I replaced the master. the plastic one was $108. the
aluminum one was $68. go figure? PHIL

------------------------------

From: "Kevin LaRue" ns1.megalink.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 21:25:43 +0000
Subject: Re: Clutch problems

> I joined the group today to see if anyone could give me some insight on
> a clutch problem that I am having. I have a 1996 F250 Heavy Duty with a
> 7.3 liter Powerstroke Turbo Diesel. The problem that I am having is my
> clutch will not fully disengage. My clutch doesn't slip at all, in fact
> I recently pulled a 4,000 lb. trailer across the country and back with
> no problems, however, when I am stopped I have a really hard time
> getting it into gear. I have heard where there are long throw kits
> available for the clutches and that this was a known problem for diesels
> through 95 but nothing for 96. Has anyone else had a problem with their
> clutches not fully disengaging? Is there a kit for my truck? I have to
> put the pedal all the way to the floor (I even had to remover the rubber
> bumper where the pedal hits to get enough play) to get it into gear and
> even then it grinds sometimes. Shifts up fine when driving, grinds
> occasionally going down into 4th. Any help is greatly appreciated, don't
> know how much longer I am going to be able to drive it this way. Please
> let me know if there is anything known out there.

This type of problem with an *hydraulic* clutch *can* be caused by
(1) lack of hydraulic fluid; (2) bad seals in the slave cylinder;
(3) bad seals in the master cylinder. With Ford trucks of this
vintage, however, the *most* *likely* problem is with the mechanical
connection from the pedal to the master cylinder. On some trucks
this push rod is adjustable, with a lock nut. On some trucks the
push rod is solid & not adjustable. If yours isn't adjustable,
replace it with one that is. If yours is adjustable, well,
adjust it. Take a look at
[http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/clutch.html]. The adjustable
push rod part # is E3TZ*7641*B. The part # for its bushing is
D8TZ*7526*B, but you may find that the original bushing is better
than the replacement. If your truck has a clutch-depressed interlock
for the ignition, you'll find a plastic sleave around the push rod
with some wires attached. This sleave must be removed in order to
remove the push rod. My advise is to disconnect the wires from the
sleave and connect them directly together so that the ignition thinks
that the clutch is always depressed & remove the sleave by crushing
it with a pair of big channel locks. If you want to retain the
interlock feature, the sleave does latch together and can be
non-destructively removed -- I just don't know how. The push rod has
a head on it that is captured in the master cylinder by three
aluminum (?) snap fins. Wrap some aluminum house flashing around the
shaft of the push rod & slide (push) it (the aluminum flashing) into
the master cylinder to push the fins out of the way enough so that
they no longer capture the head & withdraw the push rod. This
aluminum wrap needs to be thin enough to actually go into the master
cylinder yet thick enough so that it does indeed spread the fins
enough to release the head -- folding the flashing back on itself to
form two layers should be the correct amount. inspecting the
replacement rod will help you judge the thickness. This is the most
difficult part of the job.

Be seeing you!

Kevin LaRue
Davis Mountain Builders
PO Box 62
Peru, Maine 04290
(207) 665-2348

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 19:09:51 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: What is it?

I have a jpeg of a part that I cannot identify...that's really a bummer
'cuz it's on my engine which is an 86 4.9L.
It sits under the carb and is attached to the intake. It juts out at about
a 15~ angle towards the right front corner. It's about 6" long, about 3"
wide and has grooves on the top of it. It has a round vacuum thingee
on the front of it. If one of you wants to try to identify it let me know and
I will e-mail it to you...I don't think Ken likes jpegs sent directly to
the list.
And NO, this is not an obscene post.....heheheh


Chuck Sanborn FCA# 07175
Torrance, CA
1964 Falcon Sprint, 289 w/351W heads, etc
86 F150 300 cu in six banger (Hers)


------------------------------

From: RiTruckGuy aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:25:00 EST
Subject: Re: Water/ Condensation in Air Filter on 300 I-6

Its been a while since I've seen anything on this string, but I know its
still a problem for me and several others with 300s. Anybody ever find an
answer?

Thanks,
Bill
'97 F150 SC 4X4 4.6L
'82 F100 Flareside 4.9

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 19:57:37 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: What is it?

I have been able to find, so far, that it has to do with the EGR.
Chuck


Chuck Sanborn FCA# 07175
Torrance, CA
1964 Falcon Sprint, 289 w/351W heads, etc
86 F150 300 cu in six banger (Hers)


------------------------------

From: "Dave Harmier" pdq.net>
Subject: Re: Thumpin' Floorboard F-350 Crew
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 21:51:43 -0600

I found it! It's non-threatening, but gets taken care of as soon as our
bussiness slows down just a tad!
It's the drivers side caliper rattling. It's a big beefy looking thing,
with the same type of holders as my 150 (just bigger!) only these have the
splits 90 degrees from the way my 150 does? Can someone enlighten me about
that? Even with passenger side holders the same, that side is tight???

Dave H.
Houston
Stable of Fords


------------------------------

From: berninghausen2 juno.com
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 20:28:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Water/ Condensation in Air Filter on 300 I-6 Problem

I pulled the old thermostat and installed a new 195 degree 'heavy duty'
model from CarQuest. Of course I took the extra 1/16 turn with the
wrench and busted the housing in the process. Luckily Stant makes one
(cast iron, not aluminum), so that was easily fixed.

Short term results--temp gauge rides between the O and the R (almost
vertical) instead of to the left of the N and the heater output is lots
warmer. Condensation seems to be dissipating and there's only a tiny bit
of the peanut butter looking stuff under the breather--used to be full of
the glop. The breather hose (front hose; rear hose goes to the PCV)
still has some water in it, so I pulled the filter to let it flow.

Thermostats aren't the most precise devices; even a 5% variance might
hold the temperature range too cool to evaporate this condensation.
Looks to me like ensuring the engine runs at 195 degrees is a big part of
the answer.

Bill in Portland

PS--the MSD5 is still zooming well, and I saw it in the Jegs catalog for
80 bucks--everything goes on sale after you buy one!


On Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:25:00 EST RiTruckGuy aol.com writes:
> Its been a while since I've seen anything on this string, but I know
> its
> still a problem for me and several others with 300s. Anybody ever
> find an
> answer?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
> '97 F150 SC 4X4 4.6L
> '82 F100 Flareside 4.9


________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: apowell ezlink.com
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 21:42:47 -0700
Subject: R-134A Conversion

I've done the conversion from R-12 to R-134A on an '85 Chevy pickup. Here
are some pertinent points:

1) Cooling efficiency of R-134A is less then R-12. Expect 20% or so less
cooling with the newer coolant. That's one reason the newer cooling systems
have more oomph...they have to compensate for lower refrigerant efficiency.

2) The lubricants for R-12 and R-134A are NOT compatible. Mix them and
you will have problems. For that reason (and to avoid venting R-12 into the
atmosphere) it's **VERY** important to have an AC service shop suck out the
old coolant and the lubricant. They should pull vacuum through the system to
make 100% sure the lubricant is gone, too. Then you can do the refill - don't
forget the lube.

3) The lubricant for R-134A is a synthetic of some kind - don't remember
what. Make sure to add it, and in the proper amount.

The conversion is not a big deal, and although it's less efficient than the R-12
cooled version, most pickups have a reasonable cooling capacity. If you're in
Texas, the reduction in cooling will matter. In Central TX near Houston, the
cooling in my '85 wouldn't really keep up unless the truck was above an idle.
Sitting in traffic let the cab heat up a bit. But in Colorado or most non-heat-
intensive states, I don't think the difference would matter that much.

But I wouldn't trust any kit from any source which did not include the
instructions to have the R-12 removed by a shop - you don't vent the stuff into
the atmosphere - and to have the system vacuumed to pull any remaining
lubricant. BTDT.
__
++++++++++++++++++++WSU-CSU+++++++++++++++++
Al Powell
Apowell EZlink.com
1958 Fiat 1200 Spyder "Transformabile"
1983 Datsun 280ZXT
1990 Audi 200
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ezlink.com/~powells/
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

From: BRIGANDBAR aol.com
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 00:07:57 EST
Subject: ABS Brake Light won't go out

I've developed a strange problem in my 1994 F-350 4x4 Club Cab Powerstroke
Diesel. Due to a back injury, the truck sat in the garage for about 9-10
weeks without being driven or even started (its a 5sp and it was just easier
to drive the Bronco with an automatic for a while). When I started it up
last night, everything was fine except that the ABS light would not go out.
It would go out monetarily on start up, but then re-illuminate. I went
through several start/stop cycles last night, sometimes not using the parking
brake (which was left in the "set" position during the 10 week period) and
sometimes setting it.

This morning I left on a pretty decent length trip (190 mi. each way). Same
problem with the ABS light. And there was one more strange occurrence on
this trip. Several times on the outbound leg the speedometer would just jump
from 70mph to about 55-60mph, then almost instantly return to the 70 mph
speed. The truck would not decelerate, and RPMs remained constant, but this
"flicker" caused the cruise control to disengage. This did not occur on the
way back.

The owners manual lists a 30amp fuse for the ABS system, but describes a fuse
failure as resulting in an ABS light that flashes in a repetitive pattern.
It also lists a relay for the ABS pump. Anyone have the manual which
describes the troubleshooting procedure for this type of failure, short of
"consult(ing) a qualified technician" ( about $70/hr.), who will simply find
the most expensive part and replace it first, then work its way down to the
least expensive part, possibly stopping somewhere in between when the problem
is no longer visible, and hoping that it has gone away for good (or else
he'll have to replace even more parts in the same most to least costly
sequence), as indicated in the owner's manual.

Also, is there a way to cause the ABS computer to "reset" and possibly
resolve this problem, or perhaps a sensor that is "stuck" causing this light
to remain illuminated. Would brake fluid level have any effect upon this
system?

The braking system seems to work fine, but it was raining pretty hard and I
didn't really have a good chance to fully test the antilock function, but I
didn't sense a pulsation in the brake pedal application (remember, I didn't
want to try and lock them up on a wet road, just to check out the 4x4 getting
out of the ditch).

One more thing, I did try placing it in 4-WD high, and 4-WD low, which should
have disabled the ABS system, and then disengaging the 4-WD system to no
avail.

Hopefully, it will be a drier day tomorrow and I'll be able to follow any
suggestions that anyone might have. I'm thinking about driving the truck
from KY to AZ leaving this weekend, as the brake system, except possibly the
ABS works correctly, and I'm not that sure that the ABS is critical to
interstate driving, and its cut off in 4-WD, but I'd rather have the truck
fully operational.

TIA

Steve
[PS: I don't have one of those "code readers" so I'll have to attack it the
old fashioned way, diagnosing the problem based upon the symptoms. SS]

------------------------------

Subject: refinery in Sinclair, Wyoming
From: craig n eggerman juno.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 00:45:12 EST

The small Sinclair Refinery is supplied mostly with Wyoming and western
Colorado crude oil. The other two Wyoming refineries run on Wyoming crude
oil. There is some crude shipped in from Canada. The California and
Washington refineries are supplied by Alaskan and California Crude. The
Montana, North Dakota and Colorado refineries are supplied by Canadian
Crude for the most part. The big Chicago area refineries are supplied by
Canadian and a middle eastern crude. All the eastern seaboard refineries
and the monster Hess Refinery in the Virgin Islands are supplied with
middle east crude. The Houston Louisiana area refineries run Texas,
Oklahoma and Louisianan Crude mixed with crude oil from Venezuela and
Mexico along with middle eastern crude oil. Crude oil in storage is down
a lot from last year and fires and resistance to increase refining
capacity on the west cost have contributed the most to the price run up.
More than half of the crude supply is now imported as compared to a third
in 1973 when we went through the last big long term price up swing. Gas
prices will peak about late July 2000 at about $2 on the east and west
costs. This time there is no reserve capacity in the domestic industry
like there was in 73. Domestic crude oil production will continues to
decline at about a 2-3% rate. The reserves are not there, the employees
are retired or working at something else and a lot of the infrastructure
is gone after almost 19 years of low crude oil prices. The "Oil & Gas
Journal" has lots of good information in it as does the Department of
Energy Web site.

Get your Ford peddle cars out and park the big rigs

Craig Eggerman
Casper, Wyoming, Formerly the Oil Capitol of the Rockies

________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:40:57 -0800
Subject: Re: Hi Octane Statements
From: Joan and Walt Posluszny home.com>


> From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
> Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 12:43:38 EST
> Subject: Octane and compression

> I learned long ago that unleaded fuel builds carbon deposits in the
> combustion chamber faster that the leaded gas of yester-year,

Hmmm. This is just the opposite of what I learned.

> and that using
> a higher-than-necessary octane will compound the carbon build-up.

How???

> Can I go to a higher grade fuel, bump up my ignition timing
> and reap the benefits of increased power w/o the fear of excessive carbon
> build-up or overheating the catalitic converter?

Yes, to some degree.

> wonder why we (USA) call benzene
> petroleum fuel ''gas'' when it really is a liquid? LPG is a gas. CNG is a
> gas.

Because "gas" is short for gasoline in the U.S.


------------------------------

From: "Pat & Paula" csolve.net>
Subject: Re: ABS Brake Light won't go out
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 07:11:13 -0500

Yes low brake fluid will cause the ABS light to come on. But usually in
conjunction with the brake warning light. Troubleshooting the ABS system is
somewhat complicated. And as for a code reader, I bought one at Wal-mart
for $19.95 Canadian)


------------------------------

From: MRStace84 aol.com
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 08:02:22 EST
Subject: Re: Water/ Condensation in Air Filter on 300 I-6

In a message dated 3/16/00 10:26:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
RiTruckGuy aol.com writes:

I put a new 195 thermostat in mine, and it eliminated the water. Then I saw
a little bit a oil in the air filter after that. I haven't had a chance to
investigate to see how bad my oil blowby problem is, but the new thermostat
definitley seemed to help the water in the air filter problem.

Stacy Fisher
84 F150 4x4
98 Ranger XLT 4x4

<< Its been a while since I've seen anything on this string, but I know its
still a problem for me and several others with 300s. Anybody ever find an
answer?

Thanks,
Bill
'97 F150 SC 4X4 4.6L
'82 F100 Flareside 4.9 >>

------------------------------

From: MRStace84aol.com
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 08:07:09 EST
Subject: Re: What is it?

It's the adapter plate under the carb. The round thing on the front is your
EGR valve. There should be a metal air tube the connects to the bottom of
it, and goes to your exhaust manifold. There should be a large vacuum hose
that connects to niple on the left side of it that has a hose going to your
PCV valve.

Hope this helps
Stacy Fisher
84 F150 4x4
98 Ranger XLT 4x4


In a message dated 3/16/00 10:10:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
slammerdeltanet.com writes:

<< I have a jpeg of a part that I cannot identify...that's really a bummer
'cuz it's on my engine which is an 86 4.9L.
It sits under the carb and is attached to the intake. It juts out at about
a 15~ angle towards the right front corner. It's about 6" long, about 3"
wide and has grooves on the top of it. It has a round vacuum thingee
on the front of it. If one of you wants to try to identify it let me know
and
I will e-mail it to you...I don't think Ken likes jpegs sent directly to
the list.
And NO, this is not an obscene post.....heheheh >>

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch problems
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 10:00:23 -0500

How many miles? You could be losing the syncros in the tranny or the
plastic bushings in the bellcrank could be worn enough that you are losing
some of the leverage you need if it has the mechanical linkage. If it's
hydraulic you have to bleed it. If it is not a diaphram type but has the
arms, the pivots in the arms could be worn or broken and an outside
possibility is the rod in a bellcrank type linkage could have come loose and
you have too much free play or the fulcrum could have broken.

Disk wear usually causes the opposit problem, too little free play.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>clutch will not fully disengage. My clutch doesn't slip at all, in fact
>I recently pulled a 4,000 lb. trailer across the country and back with
>no problems, however, when I am stopped I have a really hard time
>getting it into gear.

------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 09:18:48 -0600
Subject: Re: Lubricants

> Couple questions about lubricants to the list. I've got a '88 F150 4WD
> w/
> I-6.
> Different manuals give differing specs for manual transmission fluid,
> differentials and transfer case. What do you folks use? And what do
> you
> use in
> your engines? Are you all synthetic?
> Wayne in VA

Redline. Its synthetic. After filling, shift action will be as smooth as
its going to be given trans condition.
Danny
fitz011ev1.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 07:54:25 -0800 (PST)
From: dennis yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Retro-fitting 94' Interior

Any kind of modification to the oem steering wheel is
highly frowned upon by law enforcement, especially if
you remove part of the rim. not having a complete
circle steering wheel will automatically get you a
ticket.. I know from experience. I had a momo wheel
on my autocross prepared thunderbird.

--Dennis

> --- A quick note, I do know about the screws and
> nuts on the back of the
> wheel, but who can I talk to, or how do I go about
> making the necessary changes to it. Is this
> possible. For an idea at where
> I want to go with this would be, basically
> the removal of the top and bottow of the wheel,
> leaving the 3, and 9 handle
> positions attached and then smoothing things down
> and thicken them for a sleek look. The remainder of
> the interior
> modifications would bring everything together.
>
> The 94' in Iowa
>
>
______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to:
> listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject
> of the
> message.
>
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 10:14:04 -0600
Subject: Re: computer on 91 ford truck

> have a1991 Ford Truck F-150 4x4 Larit extended cab pick up. I am having
> trouble getting power to the in tank fuef pump on both tanks.I am
> wondering if the part of the computer that controls the power to the pump
> might not be functioning . The manual I have shows a 60 pin out
> connection on the computer. My computer only has a 14 pin out . Can any
> body tell me where I can find a wire color chart for a14 pin out. Many
> thanks for any help any body can give.

Your looking at something else...maybe cruise control module in
the middle underneath the dash? The pinout for the PCM can be
accessed from the engine compartment. On the driver's side look
at the big round connection w/the mass of wires on the firewall.
Now look to the right. You will see a big, black rectangular
connector w/a 10 or 11mm bolt securing it. Thats your 60 pin
pinout.

However, as some have mentioned, you need to check the fuel
pump "cutoff". They move them around year to year but check
underneath the dash, driver's side and look for the big white round
connector that I mentioned earlier(w/all the wires). Now look above
it. Do you see a 2 X 3" black plastic box w/1 red and 1 green wire
going to it? That the cutoff. On top there is a recessed button(you
have to feel for it). Push it down. If you felt a click, you reset it. If it
did nothing its not the problem.

Note that Ford trucks can have this cutoff behind the drivers or
pass kickpanel or the same on the firewall underneath dash.

Another possibility for no power to the fuel pumps is the FP relay.
They can stick on or off. Its light green plastic in the black box
w/other relays close to the air filter box. Try tapping it left/right and
then down. Maybe it will come back to life. If it did, replace it
because it WILL stick again.

Danny
fitz011ev1.net

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 1990 F150 Fuel Pump
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 11:28:55 -0500

If you notice some trouble after driving with a low fuel level for a while
it may be an indication of a pump problem but if it runs well all the time I
wouldn't cross that bridge till I get there :-) They very seldom just quit
altogether, they usually go out a little at a time.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>My fuel filter clogged on a trip. The repair shop replaced it and
>suggested the electric (in tank) fuel pump should be replaced
>because it
>might be ruined by the clogged filter.

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Lubricants
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 11:35:33 -0500

All the old cast iron manuals take 50 wt engine oil, not gear lube and the
bearings can actually be damaged by using too heavy an oil since it can't
get into the bearings as well. Most of the newer, aluminum housing trannys
use ATF and virtually all rear wheel drive diffs still use 85-95 gear lube.
Mobil 1 75-90 is a real good choice and there is Mobil 1, 50 wt racing oil
for the trannys.

Autos will depend on usage and type but I believe all Ford autos do better
on type F regardless of recommendations but that's just my personal opinion.

I use Mobil 1 in all the newer engines but the leaky ones get Penzoil PZL
turbo formula. Synthetic leaks easier than dyno so don't use it in a leaky
engine.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Different manuals give differing specs for manual transmission fluid,
>differentials and transfer case. What do you folks use? And

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: 300 distributor
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 11:49:26 -0500

check out www.cliffordperformance.com ,they might be able to help
you.That is all they deal in is 6-cyl. stuff.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gill, Timothy M. usfk.korea.army.mil>
To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Thursday, March 16, 2000 8:34 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: 300 distributor


>
>
>> ----------
>> From: Zachary Colvin[SMTP:t1tpu11eryahoo.com]
>> Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2000 2:22 PM
>> To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
>> Subject: [80-96-list] 300 distributor
>>
>> I was wondering if any companies make performance
>> distributors for the 300 I-6. I plan on buying an MSD
>> 6 ignition later on, but I would also like to put a
>> distributor in if there is one available.
>> Thanks
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com
>> ==========================================================
>> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>> message.
>>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Brake lights
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 11:58:39 -0500

I had a similar thing happen to me.I looked for a long time to find it & it
turned out to be the Trailer Connector Plug that hooks up the trailer
lights. It had some corrosion in the female side of the plug that was
shorting out between the center two sockets.Check that if you have a
connector for trailer hook-up. This happened when I was not hooked up to my
trailer. I replaced the connector & it now works fine.
-----Original Message-----
From: TABrick bigfoot.com>
To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Thursday, March 16, 2000 8:34 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] Brake lights


>Hello to the list
>Of course I've joined the list because I have a problem with my truck.
>Here goes.
>I have a 94 F150 4X4 4.9. The brake lights & turn
>signals have stopped working. I've checked the fuses and bulbs and all
>seem OK. The turn signals & 4 way flasher work fine on the front of the
>truck but not on the back. The tail lights & backup lights work fine. I
>undid the wiring harness at the back of the truck and the connection
>looks good. Also the ABS light comes on every now and again for a
>minute or two. Any ideas what might cause this? Any advice is much
>appreciated.
>Thanks.
>
>
>--
>Sail a Soling and help keep keel boats in the Olympics.
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #37
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