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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Wed, 15 Mar 2000 15:28:14 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 15:28:14 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #35
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------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Tue, 14 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 035

In This Issue:
Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing
Re: Transmission Swap - Computer Change?
Re: Gas boycott
Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing
Re: Gas boycott
Re: Gas boycott
Exhuast
Dana 60s
I found the squeaking noise.
93 f-150
Re..F250 glow plugs not glowing
91 F-250 blinkers quit working
Changing Diff. Lube
Re: Heater/Defroster Problem
Re: 93 f-150
Re: 91 F-250 blinkers quit working
Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing
Re: 91 F-250 blinkers quit working
Re: Changing Diff. Lube
Gas prices, domestic
Re: Gas prices, domestic
Re: Gas prices, domestic
I love this list

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 06:51:26 +1100
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing

Hi Steve and all others,

I'm sorry if this seems to be a dumb question, but when you refer to 93 octane &
87 octane fuels, are these both leaded or unleaded fuels ? There have been other
references to the octane ratings and fuels but none of it gells with my limited
USA knowledge. I'm confused !! Guess I've been sniffing too much LPG.

We don't have any blending or other marketing tricks down here. Pull into a
servo and the only choice you will have is ULP, Super, LPG, or Diesel. Oh ...
and occasionally there is Premium UnLeaded Petrol. That's It. and bring you
money .......

.... but I'm still having fun in a Ford on LPG...


regards
Les
Lost in the Land of OZ


Steve Schmeckpeper wrote:

> Thanks Phred and Gary,
> I was able to eliminate the ping using a base timing of 8', with spout
> removed. I had advanced to 12' while it was running 93 octane and it did
> ping a little under load. So it was probably way out of spec when I switched
> to 87 octane. Now with the new setting it has a little wider power band.
> Used to flatten out ~ 80mph (but was faster off the line), now I can reach
> 100 and it still wants to go some more. NEVERMIND............85 for passing
> is plenty good enough for me!
> Smeck
> KC5OPW
> P.S. Good to hear the truck was made to burn 87 oct.....cause that's all
> it's gonna get from now on < >


------------------------------

From: "Chapman, David P" unisys.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission Swap - Computer Change?
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 15:47:39 -0500

Thanks Wayne!
Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: FLR150 aol.com [mailto:FLR150 aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 1:57 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Transmission Swap - Computer Change?


In a message dated 3/14/00 1:51:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
David.Chapman unisys.com writes:

<< I think the transmission is the E4OD in this
truck. Does that change anything?
>>
Dave,
Nope. It is still an electronic tranny. it has the same sensors as the AODE.

The AODE is like the electronic C-4 and the E4OD is like the C-6.
later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
message.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 13:09:37 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Gas boycott

At 05:35 PM 3/10/00 -0500, you wrote:
>What good is a gas boycott if you stock up before or after that date.

The only way it might work is if EVERYONE boycotted the SAME refinery
for a LONG period of time. Heck, that might even institute a good old
fashioned gas war...


Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
1964 Falcon Sprint


------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONCaol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 16:22:04 EST
Subject: Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing

leswcyber.net.au writes:

<< when you refer to 93 octane & 87 octane fuels, are these both leaded or
unleaded fuels ? >>


Hi Les,
I'll answer you question if you'll answer mine, OK? ;-) The EPA
(Environmental Protection Agency) outlawed leaded fuel (tetraethylene) in
this country several years age - so there is no ''leaded'' gasoline. Some
stations in my area sell "regular" gasoline, I guess intended for the old
engines that do not have hardened valve seats. I don't know what sort of
additives are put in the fuel to lubricate the valves, but I suspect it's
inadequate for the job. A friend of mine ran a rebuilt Ford 390 for 30,000
miles (48,000km) after a rebuild with stock valves & seats and pouring in
only ''regular'' gas, and the valve recession into the heads was
un-believable!! But, he did run it HARD....heavy loads and high speeds.
The octane in the fuel available to me here is lower than most other places
because of our high altitude (5280 feet, or 17,311m ... if I did the
conversion correctly), so the 3 grades of unleaded gas are 85, 88, and 91
octane for regular unleaded, mid-grade, and Super. But, even theses #'s vary
between outlets.
Now for my ''dumb'' question... is ULP un-leaded petrol? is Super a higher
octane version of ULP? is Premium UnLeaded Petrol an even higher octane? If
so, what are the octane ratings on these? I'm guessing octane is measured
the same here as Down Under (Research Method and Motor Method averaged) I'm
constantly amazed at how much I learn about Fords (and other loosely related
subjects) from this list.....and that includes the interesting
differences/simularities of out brethren to the North and in OZ.
Alex


------------------------------

From: "Moore, Jimmy" ZymeTx.com>
Subject: Re: Gas boycott
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 15:22:33 -0600

Actually, this makes more sense than anything. Boycott say conoco or texaco
or phillips. do it for a couple of weeks. unfortunately, I don't think it
will work. These companys have too much money, and they can weather any
storm. Besides, you still have too many people that use their gas cards
(not me, I pay cash for everything, I don't own credit cards). The company
will survive, and boycotting mom and pop will do no good for anyone but the
big company. I say we just weather it until they come back down. It makes
complete sense on the part of the oil producers. Limit the amount, and the
price will go up. Sell less for more, simply because they can, and simply
because America is dependent on it.

They will realize one day, though, that they have goofed up. They keep this
up, and funding will be increased for research for alternative fuels, and
eventually, we will not be dependent on them, and they'll be selling oil for
50 cents a barrel, IF they can find a buyer. So rather than buyer beware,
let's say, "Seller Beware".

I don't care that I have to pay 1.37 where I'm at in Oklahoma City. It's
better than other parts of the country. I will still drive my big, bad
Ford. I wouldn't care if it got to $2.00, I'll still pay.

Jim Moore

1964 Ford F-100 292
1981 Ford F-150 300 Six
Oklahoma City, OK



-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Sanborn [ mailto:slammerdeltanet.com
deltanet.com> ]
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 3:10 PM
To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Gas boycott


At 05:35 PM 3/10/00 -0500, you wrote:
>What good is a gas boycott if you stock up before or after that date.

The only way it might work is if EVERYONE boycotted the SAME refinery
for a LONG period of time. Heck, that might even institute a good old
fashioned gas war...


Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
1964 Falcon Sprint

==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
message.



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 13:38:21 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Gas boycott

At 03:22 PM 3/14/00 -0600, you wrote:
>Boycott say conoco or texaco
>or phillips. do it for a couple of weeks. unfortunately, I don't think it
>will work.

Ahhh,but it has worked in the past with Exxon. After the Valdeze spill,
most everyone
in California quit buying from Exxon. Their first response was to lower
prices...their
second response (the first one didn't work) was to close up shop.
Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
1964 Falcon Sprint
1986 F150 six banger (Hers)


------------------------------

From: 2insaneexcite.com
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 14:20:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Exhuast

Finally got around to doing some of the work i said i was going to do. took
out the second cat(first one was too much of a hassle 2 into the cat 1 out
so i said screw it) and replaced it with a pipe. we cut it off right after
the first one, 3 inch pipe, had to get a reducer to 2.25 pipe then took that
pipe to the existing pipe. rigged it up with muffler clamps, well my friend
tryed to. i have some exhaust leaks on it now that i'm trying to fix. After
we cut it off we had to go see what it sounded like and WOW,it was real
nice. 3inch pipe coming off about a foot of pipe from the manifolds. Sounded
like a beast ready to tear something apart. Put the throttle down and she
ROARED, after 3000 rpm u couldn't even hear to talk. i took the pipe and
stuff off now as i am trying to rig it up a little better than my bud did so
its dumping right out after the cat now. sounds great and is loud as hell
but i'll be able to stand it for awhile until the pipe goes back in there.
:-) When the pipe was in there it sounded real nice. throaty and powerful,
maybe a little too loud though. :-)

Also, ordered some KCHillites, msd coil, and ford motosport wires from
summit. arriving sometime. i'll talk about those too when i get them. now im
off to florida for a about a week. family vacation before i'm off to
college. sorry about the long post. c ya in a week.

DK





_______________________________________________________
Get 100% FREE Internet Access powered by Excite
Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://freelane.excite.com/freeisp


------------------------------

From: "Bryan Snyder" hotmail.com>
Subject: Dana 60s
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 14:23:05 PST

Do the Ford Dana 60s have most of the heavier duty, more desireable
components? I ask because Dana is know to have widely vareying versions of
axles such as 3 or 4 thicknesses of axle tubes, full floating VS semi
floating etc. What years of F250s and 350s used them? Anyone here know where
there is a good, newer front Ford Dana for a reasonable price?

Thanks,
Bryan
______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Moore, Jimmy" ZymeTx.com>
Subject: I found the squeaking noise.
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 16:30:14 -0600


I mentioned last week that I had a squeaking noise when my motor was
running, but it seemed to go away with acceleration, but worsened at idle
speed in gear. Last night, I was checking the manifold bolts and found that
the upper bolt on the starter was about one inch out, and the bottom one was
loose as well. Needless to say, I tightened them up good and tight, and lo
and behold, no more squeaking.

Jim Moore
1964 Ford F-100 292
1981 Ford F-150 300 Six
Oklahoma City, OK


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 14:40:19 -0800
From: Don or Bub home.com>
Subject: 93 f-150

i have a clanking sound comming from the inside of my cab. i think that
it might be the seat belt bolts. has any one else had this same problem
with what i think may be the belts???????

and annoyed man
bub

------------------------------

From: WoodStck45aol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 21:20:57 EST
Subject: Re..F250 glow plugs not glowing

Kevin,

On the back of the motor, (right where a distribitor would be on a small
block chevy) there is an electronic module that controls the glow plugs.
There is really no way to tell if its bad or not except to switch a new one
in its place. The only draw back is when this module goes bad it usually
fries the glow plugs. What we did on my dads truck (94 F250 diesel) is
replace the module and only replace the bad glow plugs, and bam, it started
up just fine. Afterwards though about a week later the glow plugs you
haven't replaced will finally die out. So, in the end your really replacing
all the glow plugs. By the way one question, does your "wait to start"
light come on and stay on, or does it go off right away like the engine is
warm?

------------------------------

From: WoodStck45aol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 21:26:22 EST
Subject: 91 F-250 blinkers quit working

My blinkers have finally quit on my truck. I priced a new blinker switch
that goes in your steering column and Ford wants $94. I figure i'd ask you
guys and see what you think before i go out and waste my money. When you put
the blinker switch on (left or right doesn't matter) the blinker will flash
and the noise maker under the dash will chirp twice, then the next two times
the blinker keeps flashing but the noise maker quits chirping, then it all
together quits. If you flip the switch to the opposite blinker right away
nothing happens, but if you wait about 10 seconds and try again it does the
same thing over. Its almost like a capacator is filling up with juice then
poops out. Are there any other switches that good be bad besides the one in
teh steering column?

------------------------------

From: apowellezlink.com
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 21:30:06 -0700
Subject: Changing Diff. Lube

Friends, I have a 2200 mile trip coming late next week, and I'm thinking this
would be a dandy time to get the old gear lube out of the front and rear axles
on my 1993 F-150 4x4 and replace it with synthetic lube. The old lube
probably has never been changed, and I might gain 1 or 2 mpg with the
synthetic lube.

My immediate question is how I get the old lube out. The rear axle appears to
have a bolt down at the center bottom which might serve as a drain point..but
I'm not sure pulling the bolt would work. Anyone been there and done that?
I'm hoping I wouldn't have to pop off the rear plate covering the gears - that's
more than I have time to mess with before departure.

The front axle doesn't have any obvious drain point. Would I need to get the
axle warmed up and use the filler plug hole to suck the old lube out with a
grease gun?

I'd welcome comments from those who've done this exercise on the early 90's
F-150 x4x series. Thanks!
__
++++++++++++++++++++WSU-CSU+++++++++++++++++
Al Powell
ApowellEZlink.com
1958 Fiat 1200 Spyder "Transformabile"
1983 Datsun 280ZXT
1990 Audi 200
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ezlink.com/~powells/
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Heater/Defroster Problem
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 00:37:02 -0500

Yes that is a very good indication that you have a bad heater core.If it bad
enuogh you can usually also smell the anti-freeze.
-----Original Message-----
From: sliknessmindspring.com mindspring.com>
To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 9:04 AM
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Heater/Defroster Problem


>NO, I don't think it is necessarily a problem. If you have A/C, it could
be that the compressor is not turning on when you turn your defrost on.
That's what dries out the air to the windshield.
>
>Slik
>...I have noticed a steam or fog that blows out of the vents when the
heat/defrost is on. Is this an indication of a bad heater core or maybe
something else...
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: 93 f-150
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 00:52:18 -0500

Is it the male part of the seat belt swinging back & forth and hitting the
inside of the cab?
-----Original Message-----
From: Don or Bub home.com>
To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 5:44 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] 93 f-150


>i have a clanking sound comming from the inside of my cab. i think that
>it might be the seat belt bolts. has any one else had this same problem
>with what i think may be the belts???????
>
>and annoyed man
>bub
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: 91 F-250 blinkers quit working
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 00:59:24 -0500

Usually there is a small round plastic plug -in blinker that plugs into
your fuse panel.It is about the size of a quarter in diameter & about
5/8"--3/4" tall.Sometimes they are a light blue color.
-----Original Message-----
From: WoodStck45aol.com aol.com>
To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 9:34 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] 91 F-250 blinkers quit working


>My blinkers have finally quit on my truck. I priced a new blinker switch
>that goes in your steering column and Ford wants $94. I figure i'd ask you
>guys and see what you think before i go out and waste my money. When you
put
>the blinker switch on (left or right doesn't matter) the blinker will flash
>and the noise maker under the dash will chirp twice, then the next two
times
>the blinker keeps flashing but the noise maker quits chirping, then it all
>together quits. If you flip the switch to the opposite blinker right away
>nothing happens, but if you wait about 10 seconds and try again it does the
>same thing over. Its almost like a capacator is filling up with juice then
>poops out. Are there any other switches that good be bad besides the one
in
>teh steering column?
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 19:46:18 +1100
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing

Hi Alex,
Yes, once again I started to assume things, and damn near got caught out. What
really amazes me, is how I am getting caught out on the basics, things you just
take for granted after all petrol is petrol isn't ? No wonder the US tune up
manuals and timing settings don't work down here. I do wonder if this is exactly
what our beloved co-ordinator, Ken had in mind when he set up this list.

The Oz EPA also, in the interests of a clear sky and reducing lead poisoning in
little kiddies, told us that ULP was the way of the future. So for the last 12-15
years it has been that all new cars must run on ULP.
Super fuel, the good old lead loaded fuel is in serious decline, in fact by
January 2001, it's production will stop. That official announcement was made
today.

Now, rather than rely on memory, I rang Caltex this afternoon, and asked the
tough questions about octane ratings, as long as I don't bag him about the
prices!!!
The octane testing is done the same way down here, although you try standing on
you head and fill a bottle with petrol and not splash it all over you self !!!!

PULP fuel - Premium UnLeaded Petrol is 95. The most expensive, and not always
easy to find
ULP fuel - UnLeaded Petrol is 91
SUPER fuel - the old stuff with the Techxff%%^, Oh... Bugger it, Lead is 96
LRP - Lead Reduced Petrol is 96. This fuel is not yet available in New South
Wales, but is available in Western Australia & New Zealand.
LPG - or Auto Gas is 98-100. He did admit that it does vary, but it still should
be better than ULP, to appease the dual fuellers.

Of course there are the boutique fuels such as AVGas, Methanol, Nitro, etc, but
you wont normaly find that at the local servo.
So, Alex, that is the fuel line up in OZ. If it's less than 90, here in OZ, we
don't want it.
Comparing your list with this, does this mean we're are a nation of rev-heads??
If I was told the truck/car I was about to purchase was tuned to run on 85 octane
fuel, I would be seriously reconsidering my options.
The highest octane rated fuel you can buy easily is 91 ? I guess that it explains
the number of octane enhancers that seem to be quite an industry in the USA, and
fall flat on their face in OZ.

Now for the geography lesson, this could be bad since I'm relying on schoolboy
knowledge .... Yeah Ok, one old fossil talking about another !! OZ is a very old
land mass, and we aint into big mountains. To live at your altitude (5280 feet )
in OZ, you would be living near the top of our highest mountain, Mt Kosciusko
(2,229 mtrs x3 =6687 ft. OK, it's pretty rough but it will do for now.), and
still only see permanent snow approx. 4-5 months of the year.
I asked Caltex 'Why is the U.S. LPG price so high relative to OZ's price ?'
Because Oz is an old layered land mass LPG is simply taped out of the ground, and
as a by product of the refining process. USA does not have the naturally
occurring LPG deposits, and therefore, it can only come from the refining of
petrol process. That's the reason why USA get only Propane (110 octane rating),
it's also accounts for the relative high price. Our Oz LPG or Auto Gas is
blended. We do have Propane which is sold as BBQ gas at a higher price,
Naturally!!

The things you learn!!

In your friends 390 case, I wonder if you were the test bunnies for that
LRPetrol? You say that you can't buy real 'leaded' Fuel? Is this something for us
to look foward to ?

An interesting side line facts:
The latest Falcon GT in OZ was designed to run on the PULP fuel, seriously adding
to the running cost compered with the GM offering which still uses ULP.
If you wish to pull out the 250 cid and drop a 460-500-600 cid in you effie, you
will have by far less problems regarding the smog laws, if you opt for an LPG
install at the same time.

If I've left anything out, please just ask...

It's amazing, I've got this far without repeating any of the gas making
Flatulence jokes or making reference to little kiddies eating their Beanz Meanz
Fartz ....... ;-)

.... but I'm still having fun in a Ford on LPG ...


regards
Les
Lost in the Land of OZ


FULSZBRONCaol.com wrote:

> Hi Les,
> I'll answer you question if you'll answer mine, OK? ;-) The EPA
> (Environmental Protection Agency) outlawed leaded fuel (tetraethylene) in
> this country several years age - so there is no ''leaded'' gasoline. Some
> stations in my area sell "regular" gasoline, I guess intended for the old
> engines that do not have hardened valve seats. I don't know what sort of
> additives are put in the fuel to lubricate the valves, but I suspect it's
> inadequate for the job. A friend of mine ran a rebuilt Ford 390 for 30,000
> miles (48,000km) after a rebuild with stock valves & seats and pouring in
> only ''regular'' gas, and the valve recession into the heads was
> un-believable!! But, he did run it HARD....heavy loads and high speeds.
> The octane in the fuel available to me here is lower than most other places
> because of our high altitude (5280 feet, or 17,311m ... if I did the
> conversion correctly), so the 3 grades of unleaded gas are 85, 88, and 91
> octane for regular unleaded, mid-grade, and Super. But, even theses #'s vary
> between outlets.
> Now for my ''dumb'' question... is ULP un-leaded petrol? is Super a higher
> octane version of ULP? is Premium UnLeaded Petrol an even higher octane? If
> so, what are the octane ratings on these? I'm guessing octane is measured
> the same here as Down Under (Research Method and Motor Method averaged) I'm
> constantly amazed at how much I learn about Fords (and other loosely related
> subjects) from this list.....and that includes the interesting
> differences/simularities of out brethren to the North and in OZ.
> Alex


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 91 F-250 blinkers quit working
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 08:33:15 -0500

If you buy the new switch from ford, keep the receipt, they warrantee it for
one year and it may not work. I bought one and by the time I realized that
I had fixed the problem and now the new switch was the problem it was too
late to take it back. I am using the 20 year old original and it works fine
:-) In my case it was a bad fuse block contact rivet but in your case it
sounds like either a bad ground to one of the lights in the circuit or the
flasher itself, not the switch but it could be the switch too.

On our old trucks another thing happens that is really insideous, the
insulation gets old, dry, cracked and allows moisture to get to the wire
which corrodes from road salt etc. but you can't see the break. Look for
green spots on your wiring to the lights. If you see this you probably have
a break inside the insulation.

Eliminate the fuse block, flasher and grounds at each light location before
buying a switch.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>My blinkers have finally quit on my truck. I priced a new
>blinker switch
>that goes in your steering column and Ford wants $94. I
>figure i'd ask you

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Changing Diff. Lube
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 08:37:48 -0500

Most of the bolt holes go all the way through to the oil so just removing
one of the lower bolts may allow you to drain it. If you have a propane
torch or accetylene torch you can warm up the diff before you drain it too,
just be carefull not to hold it in one spot too long to coke the oil, move
it around a lot. It doesn't have to be all that warm to make it flow well
so don't overdo it :-) If that scares you, put a small electric heater
right up next to it and let it run for an hour or two before changing it.
That's how I keep my compressor running in zero weather :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>My immediate question is how I get the old lube out. The rear
>axle appears to
>have a bolt down at the center bottom which might serve as a
>drain point..but
>I'm not sure pulling the bolt would work. Anyone been there

------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONCaol.com
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 13:47:42 EST
Subject: Gas prices, domestic

It just dawned on me that the Sinclair station I fill up at gets its product
from the refinery in Sinclair, Wyoming - on the rim of the Great Divide Basin
where the oil fields and big coal deposits are. What do the OPEC nations
have to do with the price on the pump here (Colorado)? Supply and demand?
Or, are the American producers (and there are many) just going along with
the flow and gouging the consumers? They could be boosting their production
and put pressure the Arabs (and Mexico).
Seems to me Americans could help Americans, and if the OPEC nations see
their income drop they will quickly boost production to make up for the loss.

Alex

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 14:01:35 -0500
From: flagship worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Gas prices, domestic

I hate to beat a dead horse, and no one (especially my teachers!) ever
accused me of being smart but what chance is there of this happening?
Why would they help out anyone? Assume for a minute you are a welder by
trade. Would you take a cut in salary so the oil equipment
manufacturers could reduce their price to the oil companies? Or what if
you drove gas delivery trucks for a living? Would you take less each
paycheck so your neighbor wouldn't spend as much on a fillup for his
excursion? Of course not! That's why we're called capitalists. It's
the most natural form of economics on the planet since the beginning of
time. It only gets screwed up when the govt messes with it. Now
remember, I could be wrong. My parents always told me I had a lot of
potential. That's 'cause I wasn't using any of it......



FULSZBRONCaol.com wrote:
>
> It just dawned on me that the Sinclair station I fill up at gets its product
> from the refinery in Sinclair, Wyoming - on the rim of the Great Divide Basin
> where the oil fields and big coal deposits are. What do the OPEC nations
> have to do with the price on the pump here (Colorado)? Supply and demand?
> Or, are the American producers (and there are many) just going along with
> the flow and gouging the consumers? They could be boosting their production
> and put pressure the Arabs (and Mexico).
> Seems to me Americans could help Americans, and if the OPEC nations see
> their income drop they will quickly boost production to make up for the loss.
>
> Alex
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 11:08:57 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Gas prices, domestic

At 02:01 PM 3/15/00 -0500, you wrote:
>. It's
>the most natural form of economics on the planet since the beginning of
>time.

AND, it's the only form of economics that has worked for the benefit of
the PEOPLE!
Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
1964 Falcon Sprint
1986 F150 six banger (Hers)


------------------------------

From: Fred Moreno dualcurve.com>
Subject: I love this list
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 13:29:32 -0700

Don annouced;

I do have some questions though. I remember when vehicles
had 6 volt
batteries. When 12 volts came along, that is when I noticed
the ballistor.
I always thought its purpose was to save the points from
burning up. You
installation instructions said to rewire the coil to
eliminate the ballistor
and since points are no longer used I saw no harm in doing
so. However, I
still have a standard coil, standard Spark plug wires and
standard spark
plugs. I expect that this will have some affect on their
useful life. I
noticed in your catalog some heavy duty Coil and Spark plug
wites. These are
particularly stressed because of heat build up in the engine
compartment on
RV's. Since I have recently replaced them, how soon should I
plan on
upgrading them again and do you have any suggestions on
spark plugs and
gaps?

Phred's reply;

Keep a spare coil in the motor home, you are putting more energy in the OEM
components and may cause it to fail prematurely. Notorious for this scenario
are the Dudge OEM oil-filled coils on the older vehicles with these types of
high energy ignition upgrades. There has not been a pattern with the Ford
oil filled coils dying out after a high energy ignition installation, but
you never know. Find a high output coil at your favorite parts store and
definitely do so with a digital volt-ohmeter. First disconnect your coil
input wires, Coil + and Coil -, and then measure the resistance across each
the two coil terminals. Typically you will measure something in the ball
park of 1.4 ohms to 3.0 ohms of resistance.
You want to replace it with a coil that has a lower reading across C+ and C
-. Accel, Mallory (if you can still find their products) and MSD all have
such coils. Our Blaster coil would give you a reading of 0.7 ohms.
Now this is a general rule of thumb for coils, might be some exceptions out
there, but in general you can't make the situation worst by following this
rule.
I would be more concerned about your spark plug wires, because they too
must contain more energy and they are in a hostile environment - don't take
that personally, it has nothing to do with Sicilians.... At the first signs
of arcing and shorting (this usually happens right at the exhaust manifold)
yank them off. I know for a fact that our 8.5 mm stuff holds up great under
extreme heat conditions, certainly others on the list will offer more input
on spark plug wires since I can't speak for other brands because I have not
experienced them.
Stick with your standard plugs, you might gap them a little larger (+5
thousandths) but its not necessary.
Glad you're deciding to keep the motor home.

So Don are you going to tell how many beaded neclaces you gave away at
Mardi Gras...any photos?? Inquiring minds want to know.

Chuck wrote:

<< I finally have gotten the timing set at 10~ advance without the SPOUT
being
hoked up. When I connect the SPOUT I thought I was supposed to see a
jump in timing but I get nothing. I rev up the engine..no advance. If
this
damn thing had a vacuum advance and less smog sh*t I might be able
to figure out my problem but.....what causes the "no advance" situation?
Thanks again,
Chuck >>

Hi Chuck,

You are suppose to see the timing move up at least by 4-6 degrees at least.
Did you shut off the key before reconnecting the SPOUT connector in the
system? Does your SPOUT connector plug have two pink wires and is located in
the same harness as the TFI module?
Sorry but the damn thing does have vacuum advance, it's electronically
controlled,...maybe one signal is not reaching the computer (garbage in =
garbage out phenomena). Have any installation involving electrical
connections??
You should see 14 degrees or more after the SPOUT connector is reconnected,
but revving the engine may not show you more than that ( I think this is
correct but not 100% sure) anyways because the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
knows you are not driving since it is not registering the transmission
turning.
What about the Check Engine Light, is it illuminated? I saw where you
mention the engine is '86 4.9L. Nothing super fancy or special with that
motor except for its dependability. '86 was one of the early years of TFI-IV
system, your SPOUT connector is the bullet type of connector that pulls
apart. The TFI module should be mounted on your distributor which is a bad
place for electronics to reside. Your distributor is in a sense a very large
heat sink. Has the truck quit on you and or been difficult to start lately.
These would be signs that your TFI module is wanting to leave.

Gary wrote;

If I am misunderstanding please let me know but my understanding of Octane
is that it has nothing to do with the "rate" of burn or the BTU's but only
the ignition and "autoignition" temp. It takes less energy to light low
octane than high octane and it also takes less heat to cause it to self
ignite or spontaneously ignite causing what we call spark knock. Low
compression engines will run better on low octane simply because it lights
easier and the flame will propagate easier with less heat than high octane.

Yes you are absolutely right, Gary but the burn-rate characteristic is a
by-product of what it takes to make gasoline a high octane fuel. Alex's
describtion of the various components/molecules of high octane fuel are
exact (he must have a copy of the Bosch bible) and their effect on the
gasoline besides providing the anti-knock ability is also a slower flame
front. Was this intentional, I don't know, but in chemistry, I've learned
you may achieve your goals, but usually with some side-effects tacked on.
By the way, Alex, me no be an engineer, just an undergrade Physics major
who hopes to graduate in Dec(?). I love to tinker and figure out how things
work, but like most of us on this list, don't really have the time and/or
money to play. And my name and the word "eloquently" have rarely been used
in the same sentence AND in a positive manner. Thanks.

The shocks both front and back on the F-150 are kaput. Looking at some Bill
Steins (sp?) because they are suppose to be the best - we don't want to put
the Sears Truck shocks because they are barely one year old, okay but they
have 40K miles...
Any thoughts experiences or comments on this selection?

Well I await todays posting.

Phred KD5AQB
95 F-150 4X4 EB propane or gasoline powered 5.0L, 5 speed and 173K miles.


------------------------------

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