Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages
contained in these archives without consent from the respective
author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on
any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by
individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors.

Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Tue, 14 Mar 2000 14:19:25 -0500 (EST)
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 14:19:25 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #34
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List

Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
message.
==========================================================

------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Mon, 13 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 034

In This Issue:
Heater/Defroster Problem
Re: F250 glow plugs not glowing
Re: Oregon, Full serve ONLY????
Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing
Re: F250 glow plugs not glowing
Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing
No advance
Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing
America the beauti-fuel
Re: No advance
Re: America the beauti-fuel
Re: No advance
ADMIN: Web based email is now working
Re: No advance
Transmission Swap - Computer Change?
Re: Heater/Defroster Problem
Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing
Re: Need help with front end noise
Re: No advance
Re: Steering wandering on center
Return to list
Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing
Re: Transmission Swap - Computer Change?
Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing
Re: Transmission Swap - Computer Change?
Re: Transmission Swap - Computer Change?
Re: Crank Pulley Timing Mark
Re: Heater/Defroster Problem
Re: Crank Pulley Timing Mark

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 15:14:52 -0500
From: "Koser, Richard W" lmco.com>
Subject: Heater/Defroster Problem

Hi,

I own a 1985 F150 with a I-300 motor. I have notice that the engine was not
coming up to temperature, being that it is a 1985 and I have only owned it
for about a year I decided to replace the thermostat. When I went to change
the old one out, I notice there was no old one. Having a thermostat solved
the engine temp problem, but ever since then I have noticed a steam or fog
that blows out of the vents when the heat/defrost is on. Is this an
indication of a bad heater core or maybe something else.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rich




------------------------------

From: "Nelson Vasconcelos" mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: F250 glow plugs not glowing
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 16:51:16 -0500

Hi Kevin,

Check the glow plug solenoid it should be on the passenger side wheel
well. Make sure it's base is grounded to the correct terminal. You can find
the schematic in any good service manual for you truck.

Let me know what you find, I spent a long time on my dad's F350 6.9L diesel
with the same problem

See ya,
Nelson


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 17:54:51 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki little-mountain.com>
Subject: Re: Oregon, Full serve ONLY????

>Good lord man, if they tried that here in Texas... the whole legislature
>would be taken out and hung!!!
>That is an unreasonable law to say the very least!!!!!!!
>
>I got 129.9 friday in a special Randalls promotion, today saw 171.9
>premium.
>Can't wait to get the mileage figures on my 7.3 Diesel (got diesel for
>139.9- still posted same today)

Prices are coming down here in Ohio now. About 80 cents a gallon now for
regular. (plus tax!)




Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."
Sick of the high fuel tax? Write your congressman
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.house.gov/writerep/



------------------------------

From: Fred Moreno dualcurve.com>
Subject: Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 16:04:10 -0700

Smeck wrote back;

Hey Phred,
With gas prices on the upswing, I've decided to switch from
Super (93 oct)
to Regular (87 oct). This'll save me ~ $4/tankful.
I tuned the truck using Super-93, and set initial timing
10'. This
eliminated 98% of valve clatter under heavy loads. (Setting
initial 8'
eliminated ALL the clatter but sacrificed performance.)
My 1st tankful of Reg-87...............the valves sound
awful 8^< I'll have
to retard the timing 'till they quiet down, and forget about
performance for
now. This brings up a couple of questions.
In a post (which I misplaced) I think you said that Octane
rating had to do
with how fast the gas burned and not with the
BTU's...............So...........if 87 burns slower than 93
I should advance
the timing so the fuel is finished burning by the time the
exhaust valve
opens? I'm really confused, cause I know (I think) this
won't work :^(
What's the clattering noise anyway? Is it the fuel being
ignited before the
intake closes (too much advance)----or fuel still burning
when the exhaust
valve opens (too little advance)?
Gonna time it for 87 oct this morning, and I'll probably
wind up retarding
static ~ 4' to eliminate the valve clatter. Sorry I lost
your
info.......could you please post it one more time? (Maybe
Ken could put it
on FTE permanently, if it's not there already.)
TIA
Smeck (thoroughly confused)
87-302EFI-no codes
T18-140k-burns no oil-now running Regular 87

Phred writes;

WAIT!!!

Okay, I am sorry I might of forgotten to specify, but I should mentioned
that the higher the octane rating, the slower the burn characteristic, so 87
octane would lite off and complete its combustion quicker than 93 octane
fuel. The 93 stuff would have a slower flame front (the explosion/expansion
would occur slower so you can push down on the piston longer), so that's
when/why you could use more advance...all things being equal.

I am not sure what the compression ratio for the '87 302, but your timing
should be 10 degrees stock +/- 2. Are you disconnecting the SPOUT connector
when checking your timing? Sorry to ask this if you are, but this would be
critical and I don't remember who has done what on our list.

Is your motor still stock? If it is then the factory recommended timing
should work. What happens with your ignition timing set to 10 degrees with
the 87 octane is odd. I suspect if the engine is stock (more or less) that
either you have some carbon buildup inside the combustion chambers or maybe
the EGR is not functioning correctly (?). I would not count on the Check
Engine light to illuminate for such situations all the time unless absolute
failure of some component. The early year diagnostic systems were not very
sophisticated like they are today, that goes for Fords, Chebies, Dudges,
etc...

Carbon buildup in the combustion chambers will get very hot of course, but
it will not cool down quick enough, so when the fuel enters the chamber to
do its thing, the deposits are still hot. As the cylinder builds up pressure
on its way up, these still hot deposits will pre-igniting the fuel.

Okay that's one scenario, so if this applies to you then you need a
solution...uhmm...how about the water trick? Running the engine about
1500-2000 RPM no load and spraying a fine mist of water past the throttle
plates. This has been known to reduce and break up the carbon deposits if
any exist. Surely others on the list will jump in and provide other options.
You know you are getting water in the chambers when the engine bogs down and
if you see black smoke then, voila!!! Keep repeating the procedure until no
black smoke or until pistons rust through.

One drawback with this method and condition; If there is such carbon, it
all has to go out the tail pipe, which means past your catalyst, and past
your oxygen sensor. This is not very healthy for the oxygen sensor, because
you will most likely coat it with the very same carbon buildup you are
knocking loose.
So if you see even a little bit of black smoke coming out of the tail pipe,
be prepared to take the truck on the road and highway ASAP without shutting
off the motor. And get on it (without being reckless). You want to continue
to have the exhaust stream flowing past the sensor with some sort of
pressure to hopefully keep it more or less clean. The best way to do that is
a loaded engine at some medium to high RPM. You don't need to 4000RPM or
anything like that but keep it out of overdrive, find a nice long climb.
BTW, this is the principal of water injection systems, keeps the combustion
chambers more or less free of that nasty carbon buildup that gasoline can
create. Why this carbon builds up? That will have to come from someone
else's input, but my guess would have engine coolant temperatures, secondary
ignition components and quality of gasoline involved....another whole
enchilada. By the way speaking of Mexican food, where's Don?

EGR also plays a role in reducing the combustion temperatures. If your
temperatures inside the combustion chambers are too hot, this will also
pre-ignite the fuel unnecessarily. How to go about testing to see if this is
your condition...I am not sure. The book that I have would be at home, I
don't trust it to stay in my possession if I brought it to work, it might
grow legs and walk off...
Essentially some of the exhaust gases are brought back into the intake
plenum and they assist in cooling down the combination of gases as the enter
the combustion chamber. If this was not happening at the right driving
situation for whatever reason, then I would expect some noise from the
engine. This could be caused by clogged pipe, interrupted signal from the
EGR solenoid, bad EGR solenoid, I don't know, just thinking and typing at
the same time - rambling on.

I have my 302 timing set to 12 and when I do run gasoline, I can barnstorm
up the Franklin Mountain pass right here in the middle of El Paso without
any knocking or pinging. We start at 3400 feet of elevation and at the top
of the pass you are at 5250 feet above sea level.
My engine is stock except for the Vortox air cleaner assembly (and propane
carburetion set-up). Okay I run an MSD ignition with wires but when
referring to stock condition or not, I was referring to compression ratio,
cam, headers, intake...
My owners manual specifically states to use 87 octane, and not the high
dollar stuff. Never have tried the higher octane gasoline. My propane system
includes a timing function so when I switch to propane (much higher octane,
94-110) , the electronic box modifies the ignition timing via the SPOUT
connector. So depending on the load and RPM, I can get up to 10 of
additional timing when needed, but that's another whole enchilada.

Oh darn, there I go again, another essay. Sorry Ken.

Must go for now, as usual been writing this off and on throughout the day.
Come on guys, Smeck needs help and so do I in answering him.

Phred, KD5AQB





------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 17:41:04 -0600
From: a&b uab.campuscwix.net>
Subject: Re: F250 glow plugs not glowing

Try this site. Lots of info.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/

kevin.phillipsbarco.com wrote:

> First of all thanks to all who contribute to this list, I first found lists
> like this when looking for Audi Quattro help.
> I also have a 1988 F250 with the 7.3 litre diesel engine and it is difficult
> to start without using the block heater. The glow plugs are not getting 12v
> but were replaced last year and measure around 1 ohm. I think the controller
> for them is not working properly. Is there a common point of failure, what
> checks should I do. Is there a schematic diagram out there.
> Thanks in advance
> Kevin Phillips
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

--
,__~o ,___o
_\ _<, _\` _<, a&b
(*)/(*) (*)/(*)



------------------------------

From: "Steve Schmeckpeper" home.com>
Subject: Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 19:14:51 -0600

Thanks Phred and Gary,
I was able to eliminate the ping using a base timing of 8', with spout
removed. I had advanced to 12' while it was running 93 octane and it did
ping a little under load. So it was probably way out of spec when I switched
to 87 octane. Now with the new setting it has a little wider power band.
Used to flatten out ~ 80mph (but was faster off the line), now I can reach
100 and it still wants to go some more. NEVERMIND............85 for passing
is plenty good enough for me!
Smeck
KC5OPW
P.S. Good to hear the truck was made to burn 87 oct.....cause that's all
it's gonna get from now on <>


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 19:24:55 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: No advance

I finally have gotten the timing set at 10~ advance without the SPOUT being
hoked up. When I connect the SPOUT I thought I was supposed to see a
jump in timing but I get nothing. I rev up the engine..no advance. If this
damn thing had a vacuum advance and less smog sh*t I might be able
to figure out my problem but.....what causes the "no advance" situation?
Thanks again,
Chuck


------------------------------

From: "Donald Porto" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 19:25:26 PST

----Original Message Follows----
From: Fred Moreno dualcurve.com>
Reply-To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
To: "'80-96-listford-trucks.com'" <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
CC: "'stv99home.com'" home.com>
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 16:04:10 -0700

********************** SNIP ************************************

....another whole
enchilada. By the way speaking of Mexican food, where's Don?

********************** SNIP ************************************

Not only did Don have a good ole time at the Mardi Gras but while he was
recovering feeling in his fingers on Wednesday, he installed that new MSD
Ignition module on his 460 powered motor home. Prior to that, the trip from
New York to El Passo to New Orleans was not a fun drive. Not only did I
range from 3 to 5 miles per gallon, I had no pep and could not sustain 55
miles per hour going up hill. After installing the MSD Ignition Module, I
drove to Hattiesburg, Ms. As I had less than a full tank I waited till I
filled the tank full before measuring my milage. However I knew it was
performing better by the way it drove. Phred you gave me back my truck!!!!
It screamed down the rode and accellerated up hill. Hadn't done that for a
year.

True some of that performance was do to the base timing being off. But what
that module did was allow me to advance that spark without fear of causing
it to ping. The module timing Knob allows me to fine tune the timing
according to the conditions. I experienced some ping with the knob fully
rotated clockwise but soon learned that a setting of 14 worked best. (By
the way, those of you who are considering running lower octane because of
price might want to look into this. You can retard the timing while you are
driving, just like in the old days with the Model A!!!!)

In any event I measured actaul milage between Hattiesburg, Ms and Corfu,NY
(the last place I filled up) a distance of 1157 miles and consumed 156.565
gallons of 87 octane. That is 7.3899019 miles per gallon. I never saw that
before!!!! And the RV ran so well I didn't ever want to stop.

I do have some questions though. I remember when vehicles had 6 volt
batteries. When 12 volts came along, that is when I noticed the ballistor.
I always thought its purpose was to save the points from burning up. You
installation instructions said to rewire the coil to eliminate the ballistor
and since points are no longer used I saw no harm in doing so. However, I
still have a standard coil, standard Spark plug wires and standard spark
plugs. I expect that this will have some affect on their useful life. I
noticed in your catalog some heavy duty Coil and Spark plug wites. These are
particularly stressed because of heat build up in the engine compartment on
RV's. Since I have recently replaced them, how soon should I plan on
upgrading them again and do you have any suggestions on spark plugs and
gaps?

Phred,
I want to thank you again for your hospitality and with helping me with my
engine. I was getting ready to get rid of it but now *smile* I am going to
keep it for a while.

/Don


______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 22:29:20 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki little-mountain.com>
Subject: America the beauti-fuel

Interesting site, though much of it looks like it was written by a liberal...

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msnbc.com/news/380105.asp

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."
Sick of the high fuel tax? Write your congressman
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.house.gov/writerep/



------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONCaol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 22:50:40 EST
Subject: Re: No advance

In a message dated 03/13/2000 08:26:44 PM Mountain Standard Time,
slammerdeltanet.com writes:

<< I finally have gotten the timing set at 10~ advance without the SPOUT being
hoked up. When I connect the SPOUT I thought I was supposed to see a
jump in timing but I get nothing. I rev up the engine..no advance. If this
damn thing had a vacuum advance and less smog sh*t I might be able
to figure out my problem but.....what causes the "no advance" situation?
Thanks again,
Chuck >>

I doubt you're going to see the timing move around like you would on a
non-computer controlled engine unless you're in closed-loop, which normally
doesn't happen until the engine
reaches full operating temp.
Alex

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 19:55:40 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: America the beauti-fuel

At 10:29 PM 3/13/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Interesting site, though much of it looks like it was written by a liberal...
When idiots like that write that kind of garbage I just wanta puke. If those
*poor Europeans* had to pay for all the stuff they get for free through the
socialization of their countries I doubt they would have little left to pay the
price of gas over there!
My, what a BIG soapbox....
Chuck


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 19:57:45 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: No advance

At 10:50 PM 3/13/00 -0500, you wrote:

>I doubt you're going to see the timing move around like you would on a
>non-computer controlled engine unless you're in closed-loop, which normally
>doesn't happen until the engine
>reaches full operating temp.
>Alex

Hmmm, guess I will have to let it run a bit longer before checking
it. Problem is,
it ain't registered so it's kinda risky to take it out for a drive to warm
it up.
Thanks Alex,
Chuck


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 02:01:52 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Web based email is now working

I finally worked out the kinks with the free Ford Truck
Enthusiasts web based email. Before I activate any
accounts, I ask that you visit the sign up page at
http://www.ford-trucks.com/nwmail/index.html

You don't need to fill in the form if you've previously
sent me an email requesting an account. If you don't
agree with the terms and conditions there, please let
me know by this weekend. The terms and conditions contain
mumbo-jumbo needed as a CYA for me, especially in this
crazy world. As with most ISP AUPs, its only there for
the occasional bad apple.

If you have not emailed me a request for web based email,
you can use the form to sign up for an account. I have
over 150 (no kidding!) accounts to activate and will
activate 10-20 per day over the next several days. When
your account is activated, you'll receive instructions.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts




------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 07:53:36 EST
Subject: Re: No advance

In a message dated 3/13/00 10:26:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
slammerdeltanet.com writes:

<< I finally have gotten the timing set at 10~ advance without the SPOUT being
hooked up. When I connect the SPOUT I thought I was supposed to see a
jump in timing but I get nothing. I rev up the engine..no advance. If this
damn thing had a vacuum advance and less smog sh*t I might be able
to figure out my problem but.....what causes the "no advance" situation?
Thanks again,
Chuck >>
Chuck,
What year is your truck, and what motor size? I know that my 94 5.0 wont
advance if the computer isn't getting a signal from the knock sensor. It goes
into a fail-safe mode so that you cant detonate the motor. If you have a
92-up 5.0, the knock sensor is a job best left to 6 fingered triple jointed
alien mechanics as it is located on the engine block behind and below the
intake manifold. I have done it without pulling the upper manifold, but it
takes some practice and patience. Also, buy a good quality FOMOCO replacement
part as the aftermarket crap wears out pretty quick due to the heat in that
area. Let me know if you need any tips on changing it. Oh and by the way,
have you run the codes?
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Top Truck #2
Fun Ford Weekend
Racing Series

------------------------------

From: "Chapman, David P" unisys.com>
Subject: Transmission Swap - Computer Change?
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 08:36:28 -0500

Well, after way more than a year, I'm finally getting around to this
project. I'm going to remove the automatic in my 95 Bronco and put in a
5-speed. I've got a shop working up a price as I'm not up to this task
myself. The last question in the planning is whether or not the computer in
the truck needs to be swapped. Does anyone know if this is necessary?

Thanks in advance for any information.
Dave

------------------------------

From: sliknessmindspring.com
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 08:56:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Heater/Defroster Problem

NO, I don't think it is necessarily a problem. If you have A/C, it could be that the compressor is not turning on when you turn your defrost on. That's what dries out the air to the windshield.

Slik
...I have noticed a steam or fog that blows out of the vents when the heat/defrost is on. Is this an indication of a bad heater core or maybe something else...


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 08:50:44 -0500

If I am misunderstanding please let me know but my understanding of Octane
is that it has nothing to do with the "rate" of burn or the BTU's but only
the ignition and "autoignition" temp. It takes less energy to light low
octane than high octane and it also takes less heat to cause it to self
ignite or spontaneously ignite causing what we call spark knock. Low
compression engines will run better on low octane simply because it lights
easier and the flame will propagate easier with less heat than high octane.

High compression needs the octane and can still get good results because the
higher cylinder temps also bring the mixture closer to the autoignition temp
making it just as easy under those conditions to propagate a good flame
front.

Typically you don't want any more octane than is required to prevent
autoignition near the end of the flame cycle. As you add octane you reduce
the efficiency of the combustion process unless you also add compression
(cylinder pressure) which can maintain the fuel's sensitivity to ignition.

Back in the early 70's OEM's depended on the availability of high octane
fuel to make up for poor combustion chamber design so a lot of engines with
low compression had to run on high octane fuel just to avoid spark knock or
run so retarded they had no pep. The 460 is an exception to this. The
wedge design was a break through in combustion chamber design and this
engine would run pretty high compression on regular gas so it's not just a
simple thing, there are many factors involved which make one engine more
tolerant than another.

My 70 Montego 250-6 absolutely would not run on anything but premium no
matter what I did to the timing. My 351M needs to be retarded quite a bit
(still knocks at 8 degrees) even though it's pretty low compression and my
70 460 will handle 12 degrees on regular with an RV cam with absolutely no
spark knock under any conditions. it has never, ever knocked that I could
detect and it's had cold intake, hot intake, cold air inlet, hot air inlet,
square bore and spread bore carbs and it's been in a van and a pickup and
had big tires and small.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>that Octane
>rating had to do
> with how fast the gas burned and not with the
> BTU's...............So...........if 87 burns
>slower than 93

------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 09:33:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Need help with front end noise

> Don't rule out the rotor... Mine acted the same way. The left front
> rotor was very slightly out of true. There was no pulsing in the pedal,
> but it was enough to move the pad when it was unloaded. Putting the
> slightest pressure on the brake would stop it from moving, and stop the
> click. It was very disconcerting, but did not cause a problem. Every
> now and then it would stop for a while.

I replaced my rotors and it didn't cure my clicking...but they
needed replacing anyway due to typical warping.

I suspect the original poster's problem is in the outboard fr brake
pad mount. Its sloppy. Since the pads don't use any anti-rattle
springs or insulators the pad gets a little misaligned w/the rotor and
taps the pad every revolution from its mount. The click I suspect
your hearing is the metal pad backing tapping the caliper.

Cure: Tighten the pad mount tangs on the pad. With the pad off the
caliper, tap the tangs down a little w/a hammer so they are a snug
fit on the caliper. You might have to tap the pad back onto the
caliper. Protect the pad from damage. Use some of the "disc
brake quiet" goop onto the back of the pad at contact points(they're
visible).

After you fix the driver's side your going to hear the pass side if you
roll the pass side window down.
Danny
fitz011ev1.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 07:06:07 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: No advance

At 07:53 AM 3/14/00 -0500, you wrote:

>What year is your truck, and what motor size?

Hey Wayne,
It's an 86 F150 with the 4.9 so probably not as bad as your 5.0.
And no, I have not run any codes on it yet as I have no idea how
to do that. This truck is a lot newer than the cars I am used to
working on.
Thanks for getting back,
Chuck




------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 09:53:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Steering wandering on center

> I have a '95 Lightning with 45K miles on it. Just got it so I don't have
> any
> idea if what bothers me is normal or not. The steering feels like it has
> a
> lot of backlash or a vagiue feeling on center. I'm constantly sawing the
> wheel back and forth to make corrections. I'm guessing it is a worn
> idler
> arm or something . Any ideas what?
> Thanks,

You've got plain 'ol steering play. Easiest thing to do is take it to a
competent front end shop and have them look for loose/worn
components(wheel bearings too).

Everything look OK? Then tell them to focus on the steering shaft
where it mates to the input shaft coming out of the steering box.
No play? No torn insulator(black/gray fiber w/3 or 4 bolts going thru
it). Probably underneath a plastic cover.

Still OK? Then its worn gears/bearings in the steering box(yes,
even at 45K). Ford p/u boxes are a crapshoot. Sometimes you get
one thats fine at 100k and occasionally you have one thats sloppy
at 40K. Fix: the usual risk from a junkyard($100-200), have it rebuilt
from someone who knows what they're doing($250-350), and
anything associated w/the dealer be sitting down!

Some people don't even notice

Danny
fitz011ev1.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 10:11:36 -0600
From: Buck Shoff sktc.net>
Subject: Return to list

Hi All,
I'm back on the list. About 10 months ago, my wife an I decided to sell
our F-150. It was just not enough truck to do what I wanted, which was
to pull a car trailer. Last month I bought a 86 F250. It needs some
work but I think it will do anything that I want it to. While I've been
lurking, I have really enjoyed the discussion on propane. Good to be
back. Buck Shoff

------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONCaol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 12:25:07 EST
Subject: Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing

I won't step on Phreds toes here and give you an engineers answer, but I will
point out that octane rating, by definition, describes the anti-knock (or
resistance to pre-ignition) properties of gasoline. As Phred so eloquently
explained, this is done by controlling the rate of burn.
Anti-knock additives are branched chained molecules (isoparaffins) or
cyclic hydrocarbons (aromatics) that provide better knock resistance than
straight-chain molecules (n-parafins) without raising the volatility.
Methanol and ethanol can raise the octane but will also raise the volatility.
The key here is volatility....is that what you're referring to when you say
"autoignition" ? (Now, diesel fuel is blended to spontaneously self-ignite,
which is the cetane number....maybe someday our gaoline engines will be
engineered to do away with our ignitions systems, wouldn't that be sweet?...
direct injection!)
Alex




------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 13:00:29 EST
Subject: Re: Transmission Swap - Computer Change?

In a message dated 3/14/00 8:37:57 AM Eastern Standard Time,
David.Chapmanunisys.com writes:

<< The last question in the planning is whether or not the computer in
the truck needs to be swapped. Does anyone know if this is necessary?
>>
David,
Yes it will need to be swapped. You need to get a computer from a manual
tranny'd truck. The AODE that you have in there sends signals to the EEC-IV
via a few sensors. If the computer isn't getting these signals, you will have
a truck that doesn't run quite right. It pulls signals from the MLPS(manual
lever position sensor), and I believe a pressure sensor also, in concert with
the throttle position sensor and the vehicle speed sensor. Without these the
computer will play some funny games and of course throw the hated check
engine light all the time.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Top Truck #2
Fun Ford Weekend
Racing Series

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 13:01:57 -0500

Not being a rocket scientist or engineer I may be using the wrong terms but
what I meant was actually detonation due to heat and pressure. Rate of burn
may enter into this somewhere but there is also the problem of getting it
lit in the first place.

My point, however miss-worded (sorry about that) was that the higher octane
fuel "needs" the higher compression and thus the higher ignition energy to
get the potential out of it and in low compression engines can actually
reduce the efficiency due to the relative "ignition difficulty".

I'm sorry gang, I'm having a bad time of it today. Seems like if I try too
hard to concentrate on something or think too hard I start having one of
those attacks so I guess I better lay off the list for a while. I have more
to say on this subject but can't finish now. DON'T RESPOND TO THIS!, I know
you all care, ok :-) It's just something I have to work my way through.
I'll answer what I can in the mean time or just read and relax :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> The key here is volatility....is that what you're referring
>to when you say
>"autoignition" ? (Now, diesel fuel is blended to
>spontaneously self-ignite,

------------------------------

From: "Chapman, David P" unisys.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission Swap - Computer Change?
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 13:50:43 -0500

Wayne - Thanks for your input. I think the transmission is the E4OD in this
truck. Does that change anything?

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: FLR150aol.com [mailto:FLR150aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 1:00 PM
To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Transmission Swap - Computer Change?


In a message dated 3/14/00 8:37:57 AM Eastern Standard Time,
David.Chapmanunisys.com writes:

<< The last question in the planning is whether or not the computer in
the truck needs to be swapped. Does anyone know if this is necessary?
>>
David,
Yes it will need to be swapped. You need to get a computer from a manual
tranny'd truck. The AODE that you have in there sends signals to the EEC-IV
via a few sensors. If the computer isn't getting these signals, you will
have
a truck that doesn't run quite right. It pulls signals from the MLPS(manual
lever position sensor), and I believe a pressure sensor also, in concert
with
the throttle position sensor and the vehicle speed sensor. Without these the

computer will play some funny games and of course throw the hated check
engine light all the time.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Top Truck #2
Fun Ford Weekend
Racing Series
==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
message.

------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 13:56:59 EST
Subject: Re: Transmission Swap - Computer Change?

In a message dated 3/14/00 1:51:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
David.Chapmanunisys.com writes:

<< I think the transmission is the E4OD in this
truck. Does that change anything?
>>
Dave,
Nope. It is still an electronic tranny. it has the same sensors as the AODE.
The AODE is like the electronic C-4 and the E4OD is like the C-6.
later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC

------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 12:10:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Crank Pulley Timing Mark

> Hey Danny,
> Thank you! I don't know if it's because that was the answer I was
> looking for that I just wanted to be backed up on what I thought.
> Second question now is: When installing the distributor, in which
> direction should the rotor be pointing for number one cylinder?
> The person that played with this before I got it had it all screwed up
> and I'm trying to straighten it out. At this time I have number one
> pointing towards (kinda) the master cylinder. Since the cap is marked
> it can only point one of two ways...
> Thanks again,
> Chuck

Your on it. #1 on distrib should be outward of the block. Mine is
kind of lined up close to the front of the master cyl.

IOW, stand at the drivers' side tire looking under the hood. Imagine
a straight line from the end(front) of the MC to the engine block. #1
is pretty well lined up in that line.

Danny
fitz011ev1.net

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Heater/Defroster Problem
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 14:02:53 -0500

If you can smell "something" in the fog (antifreeze) then it's a leak.
There aint no free lunch :-( With any luck it's just a hose connection but
you still have to get it out to check it I guess? If you have to do that
then for $25 or so I'd just replace it so it won't come up again as an issue
you have to deal with.....

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>the engine temp problem, but ever since then I have noticed a
>steam or fog
>that blows out of the vents when the heat/defrost is on. Is this an
>indication of a bad heater core or maybe something else.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 11:20:00 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Crank Pulley Timing Mark

At 12:10 PM 3/14/00 -0600, you wrote:
>Your on it. #1 on distrib should be outward of the block. Mine is
>kind of lined up close to the front of the master cyl.

Well thanks again, Danny....Nice to know that at least now
I have two things correct :-)
Chuck


------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #34
**********************************
----------------------------------------------------------
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List

Send posts to 80-96-listford-trucks.com

If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing
list, send an email to:

listarford-trucks.com

with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of
the message.

Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
----------------------------------------------------------

....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.