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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Mon, 13 Mar 2000 14:13:21 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #33
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------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Sun, 12 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 033

In This Issue:
Oregon Gas rules and taxes....
Steering wandering on center
Re: Crank Pulley Timing Mark
Fuel, trade and tax
Re: Crank Pulley Timing Mark
Alternator fire
Need help with front end noise
Re: B&M Transpack ROCKS!!!
Re: Gas boycott, free trade, and stop shafting our citize
Re: Fuel, trade and tax
Re: Need help with front end noise
Re: Gas boycott, free trade, and stop
Re: Gas boycott, free trade, and stop
Re: Alternator fire
Re: Steering wandering on center
Oregon, Full serve ONLY????
Re: Oregon, Full serve ONLY????
Re: Alternator fire
Re: Crank Pulley Timing Mark
Fw: Help -- Parts Wanted
Re: Steering wandering on center
Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing
Re: '80 F-100 Electrical Problem
Re: Crank Pulley Timing Mark
Re: Oregon Gas rules and taxes....
MSD ignition price
Re: Fw: Help -- Parts Wanted
Re: Help -- Parts Wanted
Re: MSD ignition price
Re: Oil Pan Removal
Re: Tie rod removal
F250 glow plugs not glowing

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Stephen W.Hansen" ndak.net>
Subject: Oregon Gas rules and taxes....
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 16:02:12 -0600


As a devoted Oregonian who has traveled around the world, the amazement at Oregon's no-fill rule has amazed me too. But after thinking about it don't bother me anymore.
The one reason that they say they don't get rid of it is to preserve minimum wage jobs. Many of those who do work there are high school kids, and when I was growing up those were some of the few jobs available. Also, many of those working there probably couldn't get other jobs... there is some odd people in Oregon.....
The main thing that I don't mind about it is that even though these people are being paid for something that you could do, the cost of gas is usually the same or lower than many states around us. I loved the Californian's who drive thru the state, grumble about not being able to pump the gas AND pay more for it at home.
Here in North Dakota, I would love to pay the same amount in the winter and have some kid pump my gas! ;-)

SNIP, SNIP, SNIP...
At a Tesoro station, Wednesdays Prices for Super Unleaded 92 Octane was
199.9 (self serve)
The next day it was 201.9
>Friday, when I left it was 204.9 (again for Super Unleaded 92 Octane).
> wonder what the price is today?
>SNIP: Here in Oregon, we're not allowed to fill our own tanks, so we're at the
>mercy of semi-competent station help that short-fill or overflow the tank
>on a regular basis. There's a pretty consistent effort to repeal the law
>forbidding self-service, but it's always defeated, just like the efforts
>to give Oregon a sales tax are defeated.
My parents and I continue to vote against the sales tax until they word it so that there is no way we would be overtaxed in other areas Oregon has one of the highest state income tax and property tax in the country, so we want to see a relief on that before they get a sales tax in.



Guess every place has its own
form of insanity...
SNIP: Oregon and New Jersey (I think) are the only two states
that prohibit self service.





------------------------------

From: "John F Brock" ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Steering wandering on center
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 17:37:03 -0500

I have a '95 Lightning with 45K miles on it. Just got it so I don't have any
idea if what bothers me is normal or not. The steering feels like it has a
lot of backlash or a vagiue feeling on center. I'm constantly sawing the
wheel back and forth to make corrections. I'm guessing it is a worn idler
arm or something . Any ideas what?
Thanks,

John


------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 17:15:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Crank Pulley Timing Mark

> >If you can see where the keyway is in the crank sprocket
>
> Thanks Gary...I'll try to get a look with my dentists mirror.
> Chuck

Chuck, its the small line on the pulley your looking for for timing.
Forget the fat "notch". Might have to get some white out or chalk to
mark to see it good.

It should line up to the V on the timing marks on the pass side.
That puts you at 10 degrees BTDC. Make sure you pull the SPOUT
first when checking timing if applicable in '86.
Danny
fitz011 ev1.net

------------------------------

From: "Serian" flashmail.com>
Subject: Fuel, trade and tax
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 18:32:57 -0500

> It's called the free market. When they price something too high,
> someone else will step in and compete with a lower price or
> alternate product (lpg, nat gas, electric, fuel cells etc.). It's always
> worked since the beginning of time.

I have heard rumor that the US has issued an ultimatum that oil
production be increased and price decreased by March 17, or
the US withdraws economic aid and other niceties of trade from
those middle eastern countries that are not willing to play nice.
Mind you, as far as I know it is only unconfirmed rumor .. but
this too fits the free trade example. After all, food grows rather
poorly in the desert, and other useful and desired products need
to be imported there, too, since the level of technology also is
not quite as advanced there as here.
"You want too much ... we don't want to trade with you at all."
is a very effective free trade approach. :-)

> If anything, write your representative and tell them to reduce
> the gas taxes. They don't know how to spend the money
> well so let's take it away. BTW, don't hold your breath for
> that legislation to appear or pass.

As I understand it, the Pennsylvania legislature is discussing the
concept of lowering or eliminating fuel tax at least temporarily ...
perhaps other states and/or the federal government can be
convinced to do so as well ...



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 15:46:47 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Crank Pulley Timing Mark

At 05:15 PM 3/12/00 -0600, you wrote:
>Chuck, its the small line on the pulley your looking for for timing.

Hey Danny,
Thank you! I don't know if it's because that was the answer I was
looking for that I just wanted to be backed up on what I thought.
Second question now is: When installing the distributor, in which
direction should the rotor be pointing for number one cylinder?
The person that played with this before I got it had it all screwed up
and I'm trying to straighten it out. At this time I have number one
pointing towards (kinda) the master cylinder. Since the cap is marked
it can only point one of two ways...
Thanks again,
Chuck



------------------------------

From: "James" colstate.edu>
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 19:13:49 -0500
Subject: Alternator fire

I bought my 89 F150 about a year ago and right away the alternator
went bad. When I replaced it, the parts guy also recommended that I
replace the plugs on the wiring harness which I did. But last night
when I was towing a trailer on the interstate, there was a sudden
bang and the truck jerked almost like I had hit something. I pulled
over and opened the hood and found that the wires to the alternator
were on fire.

So my question is what is the permanent fix for this problem?
Do the wires have to be replaced every year !!!! This is a
dangerous situation and if there is not a recall maybe there should
be. I'll contact the Ford Dealer tomorrow and see what they say.
Any other suggestions short of getting a new truck; I sure don't
want to have this happen again :(

Thanks,
James Hiers




------------------------------

From: apowell ezlink.com
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 17:14:02 -0700
Subject: Need help with front end noise

Friends, I am having real trouble figuring out the source of a click/noise in the
left front corner of my 1993 F-150 4x4 with 106K miles.

Any time it's moving, from the left front wheel area I get a very distinct two-part
clicking sound that sounds like: chic-KUNK, chic-KUNK (etc.). The noise is
definitely synchronous with tire rotation speed. It's not audible unless the
window is rolled down.

It is present whether I'm in 2-wheel mode, or in 4-wheel mode with 4wd
engaged, and it does not go away as speed increases (at least up to 45 mph.)
It is loudest when I'm going straight or turning left; when turning right, it
seems to be less evident. It doesn't matter whether the manual front hubs are
engaged or not - it clicks identically either way.

Symptoms are as follows:

1) LF corner has a two-part click synchronous with rotation.
2) If the brakes are applied even gently, the clicking STOPS immediately. It
resumes within 3-4 seconds after brakes are released.
3) When the LF wheel is removed and put back on, the clicking stops until the
vehicle has been driven 10+ miles...then the click returns. WHY????? (This
part really stumps me.)

Here's what HAS been done to this truck:

- The front brake pads were replaced by the dealer when I bought it about
11K miles ago. I don't think it's pads or rotor.
- Last spring, about 6K miles ago, I had a collision with another pickup which
damaged the front of this truck - but the damage was basically sheet metal,
and was mostly on the grille and right front corner, not the left front where the
click is, nor was the drivetrain involved.
- About 3K miles ago, the original automatic front hubs were replaced with
manual Warn hubs in an effort to get rid of the click...no luck.
- At the same time the hubs were changed, the inner and outer wheel
bearings on both left and right front corners were replaced, and new bearings
were packed and installed. No luck.

I have gotten under the truck and checked all the U-joints in the front half of
the 4wd assembly except the one hidden inside the I-beam to the LF corner -
can't reach that one. All the U-joints I can reach are OK.

To check the wheels and the wheel caps as potential causes (the stock '93
models which mount with three screws, and yes, I have the correct factory
screws...) I have rotated the tires front to back, and tried operating with and
without the wheel caps installed. Neither gets rid of the click, so I can
eliminate the wheels and wheel caps as causes. HOWEVER - as noted
above, every time I remove and replace a wheel, the LF corner does NOT
click until the truck has been driven 10+ miles...then it starts again.

If this were not a 4x4, I would go straight for the wheel bearings, as those
would be about the only thing which could cause this. And although they were
replaced recently, it's always possible to get a bad bearing.

I have a 2200-mile trip to drive this truck on starting in about 10 days. I
welcome ANY helpful suggestions on how to diagnose and eliminate this click.
Please feel free to email me directly at ezlink.com>, and of course
I will check the list.

THANKS!!

Thanks in advance for any help, friends.
__
++++++++++++++++++++WSU-CSU+++++++++++++++++
Al Powell
Apowell EZlink.com
1958 Fiat 1200 Spyder "Transformabile"
1983 Datsun 280ZXT
1990 Audi 200
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ezlink.com/~powells/
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

From: Spruce1495 aol.com
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 19:23:24 EST
Subject: Re: B&M Transpack ROCKS!!!

David,
How long did the modification take? It sounds like my E4OD could use
this mod.. I tow a 5th wheel trv. trlr. and hate the slushy shift and trq.
cnvtr. shudder. Trans has 92K on it. Whaddayathink.

Bill in KY

------------------------------

From: "Serian" flashmail.com>
Subject: Re: Gas boycott, free trade, and stop shafting our citize
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 19:00:14 -0500

> I agree with another station. Stop protecting the countries that are
> participating in the production cuts. Stop providing services to
> them, and let other nations start filling our demand for oils.

Exactly ...
Another member cited the example of free trade ... which is corerect,
but a little more complex than it is presented. The United States has
a rather large military presence in the middle east. Why ? Well, the
answer is twofold, and both reasons are for the benefit mostly of the US.

1 - to protect petroleum producing nations, so that we, the US, can get
a decent supply of petroleum at a reasonable cost
2 - to keep an eye on 3rd world dictators and their weapons capabilites.

So, yes ... it is a free trade system, but what the US is trading is the
service
of making these OPEC nations secure from invasion, protected so they
can live without the fear that some leader with ideas of conquest might just
arrive on their doorstep and change their way of life. THAT is why OPEC
should play nice ... and if they cannot, then why should the US protect
countries that are shafting us out of everything they can get away with.
By all means, let us trade with other nations that understand that they can
get a reasonable but not ridiculous price for their goods, offer a watchful
eye over them, and tell off those who want way too much for a simple
product.
Nations such as Ukraine, Venezuela, Norway, and Mexico have petroleum
too, and undoubtedly would benefit from an increased trade with the only
remaining "superpower", and the wealthiest and most advanced country in the
world. The US leadership needs to take a stand, and stop taking BS from
countries that benefit a lot from trade arrangements they have with the US.

Another thing of note ... the US automakers need to put a bit of a change in
their production to make vehicles a bit more efficient and powerful. A
simple
change that could be incorporated is increasing the compression ratio of the
engines.

same displacement + more compression => more power

351 cu in that has the power to go uphill reasonably at 2500 RPM is more
efficient than 170 cu in that has so liitle guts that it needs to go up a
hill at
6000 RPM in second gear in order to move at all. Simple math ... I wonder
why and when the manufacturers lost this simple skill.






------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 19:47:00 -0500
From: "Theodore D. Mills" martnet.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel, trade and tax

Why don't we raise the price on a bushel of wheat?
Or cut wheat production......

Just so we can get the market price to go up.

Hit 'em in the old breadbasket......



At 18:32 03/12/2000 -0500, you wrote:
>> It's called the free market. When they price something too high,
>> someone else will step in and compete with a lower price or
>> alternate product (lpg, nat gas, electric, fuel cells etc.). It's always
>> worked since the beginning of time.
>
>I have heard rumor that the US has issued an ultimatum that oil
>production be increased and price decreased by March 17, or
>the US withdraws economic aid and other niceties of trade from
>those middle eastern countries that are not willing to play nice.

> After all, food grows rather
>poorly in the desert, and other useful and desired products need
>to be imported there, too, since the level of technology also is
>not quite as advanced there as here.
>"You want too much ... we don't want to trade with you at all."
>is a very effective free trade approach. :-)
>

Ted

N3KWQ
Aston, Pa

84 Mustang GT (in pieces)
85 Ranger XL 2WD 2.8L
91 F-250 SC 4X4x460
94 Taurus LX wagon 3.8L

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 20:13:01 -0500
From: S Spaulding worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Need help with front end noise

Al,

Don't rule out the rotor... Mine acted the same way. The left front
rotor was very slightly out of true. There was no pulsing in the pedal,
but it was enough to move the pad when it was unloaded. Putting the
slightest pressure on the brake would stop it from moving, and stop the
click. It was very disconcerting, but did not cause a problem. Every
now and then it would stop for a while.

Steve

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 20:35:33 -0500
From: "Theodore D. Mills" martnet.com>
Subject: Re: Gas boycott, free trade, and stop


>Another thing of note ... the US automakers need to put a bit of a change in
>their production to make vehicles a bit more efficient and powerful. A
>simple
>change that could be incorporated is increasing the compression ratio of the
>engines.
>
>same displacement + more compression => more power
>
>351 cu in that has the power to go uphill reasonably at 2500 RPM is more
>efficient than 170 cu in that has so liitle guts that it needs to go up a
>hill at
>6000 RPM in second gear in order to move at all. Simple math ... I wonder
>why and when the manufacturers lost this simple skill.


The reason for that loss is our own government.

The3 lower compression ratios are required by the current emission laws as
I understand things.....

Lower compression ratios helped reduce emissions, NOx I think.
I'm sure someone will jump on this point if I'm wrong.

Higher compression ratios also require higher octane fuel, which is more
expensive.

I think the technology is out there or could be developed to meet the above
stated goal, but is it PROFITABLE to market.

There is a limit to what the consumer will pay for a product.
Someone on one of the FTE lists made the statement that there is no such
thing in this country as obscene profits......or something to that effect.

The corporate motto seems to be make it as cheaply as possible and sell it
for as much as possible, and pocket the difference.

I'm not trying to sound like some anti-capitalist commie liberal here, but
it's a fact of life.

He who dies with the most money (or toys) wins!





Ted

N3KWQ
Aston, Pa

84 Mustang GT (in pieces)
85 Ranger XL 2WD 2.8L
91 F-250 SC 4X4x460
94 Taurus LX wagon 3.8L

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 18:22:34 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Gas boycott, free trade, and stop

At 07:00 PM 3/12/00 -0500, you wrote:
>The US leadership needs to take a stand, and stop taking BS from
>countries that benefit a lot from trade arrangements they have with the US.

Hmmm, maybe you think the "boy at the top" might have YOUR interests in
mind.....?? heheheheh
Chuck



------------------------------

From: "Wallace A. Gustafson" speedchoice.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator fire
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 19:25:26 -0700

What type of alternator did you install? Was it the right amperage? Check
for damage in the harness.

I had the same problem with my Mustang -- Parts Store supplied WRONG
alternator.

Wallace A. Gustafson -- a.k.a. "Cobra"
Cobra Racing & Engineering
1991 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible (Police Interceptor & Cobra
Modifications)
1991 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat

----- Original Message -----
From: "James" colstate.edu>
To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2000 5:13 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] Alternator fire


> I bought my 89 F150 about a year ago and right away the alternator
> went bad. When I replaced it, the parts guy also recommended that I
> replace the plugs on the wiring harness which I did. But last night
> when I was towing a trailer on the interstate, there was a sudden
> bang and the truck jerked almost like I had hit something. I pulled
> over and opened the hood and found that the wires to the alternator
> were on fire.
>
> So my question is what is the permanent fix for this problem?
> Do the wires have to be replaced every year !!!! This is a
> dangerous situation and if there is not a recall maybe there should
> be. I'll contact the Ford Dealer tomorrow and see what they say.
> Any other suggestions short of getting a new truck; I sure don't
> want to have this happen again :(
>
> Thanks,
> James Hiers
>
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Steering wandering on center
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 21:42:37 -0500

I wouldn't think at 45,000 miles the idler arm would be worn out already
unless it has had some real extreme hard use on it in those 45,000 miles. I
own a '94 F-150 that has wider tires on it than my '78.My '94 will do that
if I'm on a road with un-even pavement,like grooves in the road from heavy
traffic use.
-----Original Message-----
From: John F Brock ix.netcom.com>
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, March 12, 2000 5:47 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] Steering wandering on center


>I have a '95 Lightning with 45K miles on it. Just got it so I don't have
any
>idea if what bothers me is normal or not. The steering feels like it has a
>lot of backlash or a vagiue feeling on center. I'm constantly sawing the
>wheel back and forth to make corrections. I'm guessing it is a worn idler
>arm or something . Any ideas what?
>Thanks,
>
>John
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Dave Harmier" pdq.net>
Subject: Oregon, Full serve ONLY????
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 20:57:50 -0600

Good lord man, if they tried that here in Texas... the whole legislature
would be taken out and hung!!!
That is an unreasonable law to say the very least!!!!!!!

I got 129.9 friday in a special Randalls promotion, today saw 171.9
premium.
Can't wait to get the mileage figures on my 7.3 Diesel (got diesel for
139.9- still posted same today)

Dave H.
Houston
A stable of Fords in the family!


------------------------------

From: "Dennis Thompson" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Oregon, Full serve ONLY????
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 21:23:20 -0600

Heck, that's great!
They should also require all teenage kids to pump it for us!
( of course I say this cause I'm 37 )

=)

SPECTRE


------------------------------

From: "Gary R. Peters" lni.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator fire
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 23:03:18 -0800

That may be the reason the newer ones all have fuses in everything including
the alternator feeds. The internal regulators obviously take a lot more
vibration and heat than the fender mounted ones and apparently fail more
often as well due to this so you need to protect the wiring in case of
malfunctions like that. If it isn't protected you can get fuse and breaker
setups to splice in there but the alternator has what's called a "fuseable
link" which is supposed to burn up in the event of trouble which it
apparently did. Since it is insulated and simply a smaller wire than the
rest of the harness it will normally run hot with all accessories on but
should not burn up. The wires on my Tempo used to smoke all the time but
never gave up :-)

Was it just the one wire or were there several burning?

> I bought my 89 F150 about a year ago and right away the alternator
> went bad. When I replaced it, the parts guy also recommended that I
> replace the plugs on the wiring harness which I did. But last night
> when I was towing a trailer on the interstate, there was a sudden
> bang and the truck jerked almost like I had hit something. I pulled
> over and opened the hood and found that the wires to the alternator
> were on fire.



------------------------------

From: "Gary R. Peters" lni.net>
Subject: Re: Crank Pulley Timing Mark
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 23:11:20 -0800

Number one is usually to the rear slightly to the passenger side but the cap
should have notches in it that only allow it to go on one way or at most 180
from that. Center the vac between the thermostat housing and any other
obsticals so you have maximum movement in both directions from about 10
degrees BTDC then start with Number one at about 11 oclock as you stand in
front of it and face the rear of the truck, then take the firing order in a
counter clockwise (to your left from there) direction and you should be
at the original factory arrangement.

If the engine is running now the best way to do that is get the timing
marks lined up with the rotor pointiing at the number one cylinder then
pull the dizzy if necessary to get it properly positioned. You can
accurately static time either points or duraspark so this movement is no
problem as long as you don't also move the crank before you get it back
together. Remember, set the crank position while the dizzy is still set up,
then do all this without moving the crank til you are done.

--
78 Bronco Loving, Michigan
Pot Hole Jumping Gary
--

> Second question now is: When installing the distributor, in which
> direction should the rotor be pointing for number one cylinder?
> The person that played with this before I got it had it all screwed up



------------------------------

From: "Wallace A. Gustafson" speedchoice.com>
Subject: Fw: Help -- Parts Wanted
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 21:05:47 -0700



----- Original Message -----
From: Wallace A. Gustafson
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 12:57 PM
Subject: Help -- Parts Wanted


I need the Engine Oil Cooler and Associated Hardware off of a 1994 - 1997 Ford F-150 w/ 5.8L V-8.
I want to convert my present truck over to this oil cooler setup. If someone can help find the parts, I would greatly appreciate it.
If someone can send me digital pictures as to how this mounts up in the complete truck, I would appreciate it.

Thank You For The Help.

Wallace A. Gustafson
Cobra Racing & Engineering
1991 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible (Police Interceptor & Cobra Modifications)
1991 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat



------------------------------

From: "Gary R. Peters" lni.net>
Subject: Re: Steering wandering on center
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 23:16:12 -0800

It would be unusuall with only 45000 miles on it but you could have a
binding ball joint. Bind, rather than looseness usually causes wandering.
If you can also move the steering wheel parked in the drive way and watch
the linkage and see some slop then you may have either one or both problems.

Open the hood, stand on the driver side and grab the rag joint and gently
move it to and fro and watch the pitman arm and other links for any slop
between them. If none is there then you need to take a look at the ball
joints, some are greasable and most owners don't know it and it never gets
done.

> I have a '95 Lightning with 45K miles on it. Just got it so I don't have
any
> idea if what bothers me is normal or not. The steering feels like it has a
> lot of backlash or a vagiue feeling on center. I'm constantly sawing the
> wheel back and forth to make corrections.


------------------------------

From: "Gary R. Peters" lni.net>
Subject: Re: Help Phred!...Octane-BTU's-Timing
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 23:28:11 -0800

I had a 70 montego 250-I6 that would clatter under load no matter what I
did. Poor combustion chamber design so I ran it on premium most of the
time. Retarding the spark will not help much on some designs, as you noted,
it messes up the performance and it still knocks so your only choice is to
run premium in that case unless you have a carb and can tune it in which
case you may be able to adjust the vac advance and carb to give better
performance and retain your cruise advance for best economy.

If you have EFI you have to run premium to prevent this or retard it so much
that it won't run or you may be able to find a faulty part in the system
that is causing the computer to compensate with too rich or extremely lean a
mixture for some reason with will usually cause knock as well.

The noise you hear is not valve noise but "detonation" which is the burning
of too many fronts at the same time and exploding of the remaining fuel due
to heat and pressure which is not normal.

--
78 Bronco Loving, Michigan
Pot Hole Jumping Gary
--

> Hey Phred,
> With gas prices on the upswing, I've decided to switch from Super (93 oct)
> to Regular (87 oct). This'll save me ~ $4/tankful.
> I tuned the truck using Super-93, and set initial timing 10'. This
> eliminated 98% of valve clatter under heavy loads. (Setting initial 8'
> eliminated ALL the clatter but sacrificed performance.)



------------------------------

From: "Gary R. Peters" lni.net>
Subject: Re: '80 F-100 Electrical Problem
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 23:32:02 -0800

I would bet you have a bad ground connection somewhere, either the chassis
ground under the hood or some grounds in the dash module etc..

--
78 Bronco Loving, Michigan
Pot Hole Jumping Gary
--

> I'm having an odd problem with my recently obtained '80 F-100 (V8). For no
apparent reason, every once in a while as I'm driving down the road I can
not operate my wipers, radio (not installed by Ford), or a/c heater fan.
Then, all of a sudden they all start working (when activated).



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 20:42:39 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Crank Pulley Timing Mark

At 11:11 PM 3/12/00 -0800, you wrote:
>Center the vac between the thermostat housing and any other
>obsticals so you have maximum movement in both directions

This is one of those without the vacuum but a TFI instead...



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 19:57:58 +1100
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: Oregon Gas rules and taxes....

Hi Stephen & Bill.

Once again, thank you for the explanation.
When Oz went Self Serve, that was one of the points that was made by the oil co.'s, that All of the US is S/S, and if it's good for the US, then it's good for OZ ..... and 20 years later, through this list I find I was sold a 'pork pie' by the oil co's marketing people !!??. Oh well, such is life.

We do have a few Servo's that do full driveway service, but usually at a premium rate in more affluent areas, where people don't worry paying about a few cents extra, but then these sort of people don't usually fill Trucks.
Yes, I also agree that it gave a lot of kids the opportunity for part time work, and in their spare time the chance to actually learn something about what make cars tick etc., that has now disappeared.
If the state of Oregon can maintain employment and sell fuel at competitive rates then all power to you.
Every couple of years we have a tyre co. do a random tyre survey thru a major carpark or two, and claim that 40-50-60% (seems to depend what they are trying to prove!) of vehicles have sub-standard tyres. Back in the era of drive way service, the customer was usually made aware of the status of the tyres (as well as other
things). Ok, we were trying to flog tyres, but at least they knew.
If my better half is anything to go by, if left to her own devices, then the car needs oil cause the red light is on. The car needs petrol, cause the red light is on. It probably needs water cause the temp gauge is past the 'H', and the steering is real bad. This could be a double problem, no oil in the P/Steer pump, no
red light to come on for this one. Or the tyres are down to about 8 psi, no red light for this condition either. The windscreen is usually a bug splattered mess cause the washer bottle ran out of water months ago. She needs drive way service!! ;-))

regards
Les
Lost in the Land of OZ


"Stephen W.Hansen" wrote:

> As a devoted Oregonian who has traveled around the world, the amazement at Oregon's no-fill rule has amazed me too. But after thinking about it don't bother me anymore.
> The one reason that they say they don't get rid of it is to preserve minimum wage jobs. Many of those who do work there are high school kids, and when I was growing up those were some of the few jobs available. Also, many of those working there probably couldn't get other jobs... there is some odd people in Oregon.....


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 01:40:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Zachary Colvin yahoo.com>
Subject: MSD ignition price

I have been reading the posts about the MSD ignition
that someone purchased, and now I want one myself. I
was just wondering how much it cost, so I have an idea
of how long I will have to save money to get one.
Thanks
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: Greg Carter entrust.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: Help -- Parts Wanted
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 08:03:16 -0500

Look in the latest SVO (FRPP) catalogue, page 7 shows a 97 5.8. You can
make out the cooler perfectly.

Greg Carter
Entrust Technologies - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.entrust.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/buildup/dana60.html

----- Original Message -----
From: Wallace A. Gustafson
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 12:57 PM
Subject: Help -- Parts Wanted


I need the Engine Oil Cooler and Associated Hardware off of a 1994 - 1997
Ford F-150 w/ 5.8L V-8.
I want to convert my present truck over to this oil cooler setup. If
someone can help find the parts, I would greatly appreciate it.
If someone can send me digital pictures as to how this mounts up in the
complete truck, I would appreciate it.

------------------------------

From: slikness mindspring.com
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 08:12:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Help -- Parts Wanted

Check out Perma Cool. They will typically have better oil coolers than factory units. You can find them at www.permacool.com

From: Wallace A. Gustafson

I need the Engine Oil Cooler and Associated Hardware off of a 1994 - 1997 Ford F-150 w/ 5.8L V-8...


------------------------------

From: slikness mindspring.com
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 08:20:15 -0500
Subject: Re: MSD ignition price

MSD 6A is $131 from Summit Racing.

- I have been reading the posts about the MSD ignitionthat someone purchased, and now I want one myself. I was just wondering how much it cost...

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Removal
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 08:32:50 -0500

When you don't have a hoist then it certainly has it's merits :-) If you
have a hoist then you have to decide what you want to accomplish. Is it an
old thumper you just want to get a few more miles out of or are you
restoring it? If you plan on building it up, a stone at a time then this
may be the time to pull it but if you have little cash for a full rebuild
and need the transportation then the under the truck method is definitely
the way to go IMNSHO :-) I've done two this way for that very reason and
managed to get another 50k or so out of them. If the crank is scored very
badly then this is pretty iffy but you can still get some miles from it if
you polish down the big scratches. If it looks like it was run in a sand
box instead of bearings then I'd pull it and replace the crank at the very
least.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Before I get dozens of stories-- I know someone has done it
>before - just
>convince me it was easier than taking the 1.5 hours and
>pulling the motor.

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Tie rod removal
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 09:48:08 -0500

You should use a jack screw/"C" frame tool to take tie rods apart if you
plan to re-use them. Tuning forks damage the inner parts of the ball and....


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