|
|
Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages contained in these archives without consent from the respective author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors. Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Fri, 10 Mar 2000 08:46:22 -0500 (EST) Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 08:46:22 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 80-96-list digest users Reply-to: 80-96-list Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #30 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 80-96-list Digest Thu, 09 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 030 In This Issue: Re: Chevy vs Ford engines Re: Chevy vs Ford engines Re: please help Re: Subject: MSD/300I6 trial...Thanks Mr. Bill!! Oil Pan Removal Re: Food for thought MSD & plug gaps Gas Cap Re: Thumpin' floor Crank Pulley Timing Mark battery boil over Re: MPG and low end ADMIN: Archives online, this time for real! Re: Crank Pulley Timing Mark Re: Oil Pan Removal Re: Food for thought Re: battery boil over Re: Crank Pulley Timing Mark Need Power Door Lock Actuator--Cheap Sources? Re: battery boil over Re: Oil Pan Removal Re: Need Power Door Lock Actuator--Cheap Sources? Re: Oil Pan Removal Re: Need Power Door Lock Actuator--Cheap Sources? Re: Oil Pan Removal Re: Oil Pan Removal ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: Chevy vs Ford engines Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 08:34:32 -0500 If they haven't done it yet they aren't going to. There is enough discussion on chevies in all the extremely prejudiced rags and other lists, we don't need it here. That's my personal opinion. BTW, the least prejudiced rag I've read so far is the Petersen's "Custom Classic Trucks". They do a lot of ford articles and are a quality rag :-) (IMNSHO :-)) -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >Hopefully Ford reads the list and will support aftermarket companies >attempts to build performance enhancing accessories at a reasonable >price. Discussion on this list to accomplish that end is >helpful. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 08:31:36 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: Re: Chevy vs Ford engines At 08:34 AM 3/9/00 -0500, you wrote: >If they haven't done it yet they aren't going to. There is enough >discussion on chevies in all the extremely prejudiced rags and other lists, >we don't need it here. That's my personal opinion. BTW, the least >prejudiced rag I've read so far is the Petersen's "Custom Classic Trucks". >They do a lot of ford articles and are a quality rag :-) (IMNSHO :-)) Check out Auto Restorer, if you can find it. Its a black and white magazine that covers *everything* in great detail. No more focus on one brand than another. Heck, there was even a series on the Datsun Z cars and an article on the Nash Metro's (and yes, they do cover 80s cars/trucks as well). Ken Payne ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: please help Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 11:21:51 -0500 WOT at 3200 would be about 28 degrees but unloaded, steady state with vac installed and properly hooked up might net you 36-40 degrees total at 3200. The stumble is not directly timing related, it is mixture related and timing has to then work with the mixture you have. If the transition is too lean it will stumble, regardless of timing but once you have the mixture right the timing needs to work with it under varying conditions which is why the vac was invented in the first place. This is what gives it "drivability". Without it you can't change timing to match the engines needs. -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >what advace timing it is pulling. the guy at summit tech said >it should be around 36 timing and 3200 rpm ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: Subject: MSD/300I6 trial...Thanks Mr. Bill!! Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 11:14:52 -0500 When I installed a set of Motorsport wires my idle went up noticeably and the engine did run smoother. I would venture to guess your fire will be more reliable at higher rpms and cylinder pressures now which certainly will make a difference but if your system was already firing well under those conditions, don't expect miracles :-) Longer spark duration and higher intensity will certainly help a higher compression engine but may have less imact on a low compression engine. The higher the compression the closer the gap must be with a given spark intensity. The leaner you run it the wider the gap should be and thus the more important the ignition energy becomes for that reason. If you are running 8:1 compression and a Holley carb with slightly rich characteristics then a wider gap is not necessary or perhaps even desirable but if you are running as lean as you can then wider gaps will help fire more reliably and also generate a better flame front. As compression goes up you need to either increase the engergy of the spark or narrow the gap and if you are also running very lean then you have a paradox that will end in a compromise. -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >I noticed that the curb idle jumped up a little less than 100 rpm with >the MSD5. Is this a sign of the promised improvement in efficiency? ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 10:41:11 -0800 (PST) From: Roger Lane Subject: Oil Pan Removal I would like to know if replacing crank bearings in a 5.0L is possible w/ the engine still in the truck. I have an 89 F250 4x4 and need to replace the bearings. I'm hoping that it can be done w/o having to pull the engine. If anyone has done this, please pass along any pointers or pitfalls that I should watch out for. Thank you. Roger "Time is the best teacher; unfortunately it kills all it's students." _______________________________________________________ Get 100% FREE Internet Access powered by Excite Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://freeworld.excite.com ------------------------------ From: kb9odg.mark Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 12:43:57 -0600 Subject: Re: Food for thought I got to see the acual engine that Cat brought to Ford when Ford was looking at contracting out a Diesel engine. It really is an awsome looking engine. In talking with one of the guys that was there with the engine and Ford, he told me that they were the only ones there with an acuall engine (well, this one is made out of paper, rapid prototyping). Ford took the engine, dropped it into a truck and Cat thought they had it is the bag. But then Cat called their guys back and said to forget it because they had just acquired Perkins Diesel, and Perkins already had an engine that size. So just think, we could have been driving around Cat powered trucks if Perkins hadn't of sold. Just some food for thought... - Mark Reimers KB9ODG '66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35" tires ... '87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, staduim truck sounding, boring no more > Date: Wed, 08 Mar 2000 14:55:23 -0800 > Subject: Re: Food for thought > From: Rob Bryan > > I doubt it. Ford has been working very closely with Navistar in the > design > of the Next-Generation Navistar 4.5L V6 and 6.0L V8 diesels. If Ford > wanted > to use the Cummins diesel they probably would have done so while > they owned > a piece of Cummins a few years ago. You can get the ISB in the F-650 > and > F-750 but I have a feeling that it probably won't be as popular in > that > application as the PSD (can be serviced by any Ford dealer) or the > Cat (much > more powerful). > ________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: Fred Moreno Subject: MSD & plug gaps Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 12:32:08 -0700 Bill wrote back; Thanks, Phred, for the warning; that snake's bitten me before, but a little carelessness is easy to find. \ I noticed that the curb idle jumped up a little less than 100 rpm with the MSD5. Is this a sign of the promised improvement in efficiency? Should I dial it back to standard specs? My NGK V-powers will be coming up on 10 grand before too long, so maybe I'll gap the new ones to .055 and see what it does. Hi Bill, Well your curb idle came up a bit because of an improvement in the combustion, so I would venture to say that yes you are going to see a little improvement in efficiency. Your spark plugs and combustion chamber will probably start 'cleaning' themselves out a bit, that is blowing out some carbon buildup (if you had any). I would certainly bring things back to specifications. One point though, if you increase your spark gap, you will increase the possibility of picking up added RF noise in your radio...Not sure if that is critical to you, but I like to listen to the AM side of the radio, mostly the Talk Shows and I can pick up a distinct distributor noise during the quiet spots of their broadcasts. Its not really a bother for me or the spousal unit. 10K only on your spark plugs??? Man I feel guilty now, I don't even think of changing them unless 25 or 30K have elapsed. Phred KD5AQB 1995 F-150 4X4 5.0L, Mazda 5-speed and 172K miles. ------------------------------ From: "Michael G" Subject: Gas Cap Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 14:15:32 PST List, On my 1991 F-150 I have a set of locking caps from Stant, available at Wal-Mart, etc. I don't have the model#, but it is the locking cap recommended in the Stant App Book and my check engine light doesn't come on. Mike ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "Dave Harmier" Subject: Re: Thumpin' floor Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 18:43:20 -0600 Thanks Jim! I like em too! I crawled under there and levered against the drivers side rad bushing, and can't find much except squeaks. The caliper will move a bit, but won't they all? It goes to a guy who set the '91 front end right, we'll see what's up. I let Dad drive it, he says "d*mn, now I know why you wanted it so bad, after the first drive" Dave H. Houston Stable of Ford trucks! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 18:03:37 -0800 From: chuck sanborn Subject: Crank Pulley Timing Mark Motor: 1986 4.9L There seems to be two possible timing marks on my crank pulley. One of them is a big notch on the engine side of the belt. The other is a skinny groove on the belt side of the pulley. Which one is the correct timing mark? The book "seems" to show the notch but the other seems like it would be the correct one to me. Thanks, Chuck ------------------------------ From: Srjones219 Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 21:03:20 EST Subject: battery boil over What would cause my battery to boil over ? The guage reads in the normal range. It drops a little when I run the driving lights and headlights at the same time. Other than that the truck runs great. Steve Jones SRJones219 92 5.0 F150 ------------------------------ From: SOBFROGG Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 20:11:36 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: MPG and low end Flowmasters are the way to go. As for the 2 or 3 chamber mufflers the threes aare the way to go. quieter and they build more power. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 21:41:36 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: ADMIN: Archives online, this time for real! About 2 weeks ago, the mailing list archives were put on the web site in searchable form. Unfortunately, there turned out to be a problem with many of the archive files and they displayed blank pages. This how now been corrected. The archives can be found at: http://www.ford-trucks.com/archives/index.html Since they aren't accessible via links and only via a search, your email addresses are protected against spam harvesters. Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 18:56:12 -0800 From: chuck sanborn Subject: Re: Crank Pulley Timing Mark At 06:03 PM 3/9/00 -0800, you wrote: > The other is a skinny groove on the belt side of the pulley. I meant to say on the engine side of the belt, also.... ------------------------------ From: LGRanch Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 22:14:37 EST Subject: Re: Oil Pan Removal It is not worth the effort to try to pull the pan with the engine in the truck. Bite the bullet and pull the engine. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 23:08:51 -0500 From: Blake Malkamaki Subject: Re: Food for thought >I got to see the acual engine that Cat brought to Ford when Ford was >looking at contracting out a Diesel engine. It really is an awsome >looking engine. In talking with one of the guys that was there with the >engine and Ford, he told me that they were the only ones there with an >acuall engine (well, this one is made out of paper, rapid prototyping). >Ford took the engine, dropped it into a truck and Cat thought they had it >is the bag. But then Cat called their guys back and said to forget it >because they had just acquired Perkins Diesel, and Perkins already had an >engine that size. So just think, we could have been driving around Cat >powered trucks if Perkins hadn't of sold. > I was once told that the small Cat truck diesels were not well liked. Maybe they are now better. I know the big Cat inline engines have always been good. Blake Little Mountain Concord, Ohio Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake "Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed." "An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...." Sick of the high fuel tax? Write your congressman http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.house.gov/writerep/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 23:16:13 -0500 From: Blake Malkamaki Subject: Re: battery boil over >What would cause my battery to boil over ? The guage reads in the normal >range. It drops a little when I run the driving lights and headlights at the >same time. Other than that the truck runs great. > Put a reliable volt meter across the battery while it is running. I believe the maximum charge should be 14.7 volts (corrections welcome). Generaly overcharging causes the water to evaporate. A short in the battery could do that too. Blake Little Mountain Concord, Ohio Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake "Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed." "An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...." Sick of the high fuel tax? Write your congressman http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.house.gov/writerep/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 23:00:54 -0600 From: Jim Cannon Subject: Re: Crank Pulley Timing Mark Use the notch that is on the engine-side of the pulley. On my 1980, you shine the timing light down from the driver's side, kind of behind the A/C compressor. At 18:03 09/03/00 -0800, you wrote: >Motor: 1986 4.9L >There seems to be two possible timing marks on my crank >pulley. One of them is a big notch on the engine side of the >belt. The other is a skinny groove on the belt side of the pulley. >Which one is the correct timing mark? The book "seems" to >show the notch but the other seems like it would be the correct >one to me. >Thanks, >Chuck > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar >the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the >message. > > Jim Cannon Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech '29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!" '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8 ------------------------------ From: "Shawn & Jennifer Clark" Subject: Need Power Door Lock Actuator--Cheap Sources? Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 23:13:07 -0600 Do any of you know of a discount source for Ford parts? I need a driver's side power door lock actuator for my 1991 F-150. The dealer quoted an astounding $101 for this poorly made part (both have failed--don't get me started.) That's higher than dealer pricing on similar Japanese car parts. Unlike other parts, this one seems to be dealer only. Are there any wholesale parts sellers for Ford? I use Brown and Brown Nissan out of Tempe to get the lowest cost OEM parts for my Nissan (sometimes 50% less than my local dealer.) Surely some Ford dealer does the same. Thanks, Shawn ------------------------------ From: slikness Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 00:34:26 -0500 Subject: Re: battery boil over I just had that happen to me, but my amp gauge was reading 3/4 for most of the time. I changed the voltage regulator and it solved the problem. > What would cause my battery to boil over ? ------------------------------ From: slikness Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 00:43:50 -0500 Subject: Re: Oil Pan Removal You will either need to jack the engine up or lift the engine with a cherry picker. Remove your front motor mounts, loosen your tranny mounts and loosen your exhaust. you should be able to 3-4 inches before your intake hits the firewall. Make sure you block the engine up. I put a short 4X4 on each side between the fram mounts and motor mounts. you should then be able to drop the pan and wiggle it out around the oil pickup. Slik -I would like to know if replacing crank bearings in a 5.0L is possible w/the engine still in the truck. I have an 89 F250 4x4 and need to replace the bearings. I'm hoping that it can be done w/o having to pull the engine. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 01:05:41 -0800 (PST) From: Keith Lawyer Subject: Re: Need Power Door Lock Actuator--Cheap Sources? Have you tried: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.worldparts.com/ I bought a power lock solenoid from a 'yard in Cali that specializes in Ford Trucks. It was $45. It's a gamble of course, but one I was willing to take after hearing something like $120 from my local dealer. So far, the used part has lasted me a year and counting. Not to mention most 'yards will provide a 90 day warranty, removing a little of the risk. . . Keith L. --- Shawn & Jennifer Clark wrote: > Do any of you know of a discount source for Ford > parts? I need a driver's > side power door lock actuator for my 1991 F-150. > The dealer quoted an > astounding $101 for this poorly made part (both have > failed--don't get me > started.) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ From: LGRanch Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 05:34:07 EST Subject: Re: Oil Pan Removal I disagree that you can raise the engine on a 5.0L and easily pull the pan. The engine hits the back of the firewall long before the pan clears the oil pump. The best you can do is reach inside the pan and unbolt the pump and let it drop into the pan. Then the pan will come off and you have clearane to the crank. This becomes very difficult in the reverse. You have to put the pump in teh pan before you put it in place then reach into the pan lift the pump and bolt it in place without being able to see it. Maybe the rasie the engine method works on a 2X4 but not the 4X4s. Also the original post was about changeing crank bearings. These bearings need to be properly installed and plastigage should be used in determining the proper fit. I can not imagine doing a proper job with the engine place and working from the bottom up. Before I get dozens of stories-- I know someone has done it before - just convince me it was easier than taking the 1.5 hours and pulling the motor. ------------------------------ From: LGRanch Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 05:38:50 EST Subject: Re: Need Power Door Lock Actuator--Cheap Sources? The power door lock selinoids are the same as on the the Ford and Mercury cars (big). the shaft on the end needs to be unscrewed and changed to the proper one for the truck. I can buy them all day long in NY for $25. The trick is to get one with a good boot on it. They fall apart very fast. Also I have been able to repair most of the bad actuators that I have worked on. Most are just rusted up, so I can pull them apart and clean them up and they work fine. Sometimes the boot can be repaired with RTV. ------------------------------ From: slikness Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 08:27:40 -0500 Subject: Re: Oil Pan Removal The difference is probably with FI. If you've got a carb, you can easy get 6" lift. I've had to change the oil pump on mine and I had plenty of clearance. I wouldn't think there would be much differnce in the 2 WD and 4 WD except for room to scurry around underneath. Man, if I could pull the engine in 1.5 hours, I'd pull it everytime. I couldn't even pull the new engine back out before I hooked everything up in 1.5 hours! That's awesome. I've seen people replace the bearings from the bottom without pulling the engine, and I myself enjoy working under the truck (I can take more catnaps that way), but my big concern would be if you've got a bearing problem, there is almost always more than just bearings that you need to replace or you'll be back doing major work on the engine inside of a month. In fact, my mechanic will not pull an engine without replacing it with a short block. He will, however, do an in place overhaul; rings, bearings, heads; but he at least has a lift. Slik > I disagree that you can raise the engine on a 5.0L and easily pull the pan. The engine hits the back of the firewall long before the pan clears the oil pump... ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 05:46:34 -0800 (PST) From: Roger Lane Subject: Re: Oil Pan Removal I want to thank everyone for their insight into replacing bearings w/ the engine in place. After reading all of your posts and discussing this w/ some local shops, I have come to a conclusion. I'm going to find another 5.0L engine and rebuild it, then swap it w/ the one in the truck. I have never rebuilt an engine yet, at least not a V8. I have done several small.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session
cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.
Advertising -
Terms of Use - Privacy Policy -
Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
|