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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Fri, 11 Feb 2000 13:02:38 -0500 (EST)
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 13:02:38 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #3
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------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Thu, 10 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 003

In This Issue:
Re: F-150 Questions
Re: Bad Alternator
Rear Diff service
Re: Bad Alternator
Transmission Issues?
92 F250 4WD
Re: knocking in '94 300 I-6
Re: Help Dead truck
Re: Wheel Bearings and Brakes.
Re: Transmission Issues?
Re: Transmission Issues?
Re: Bad Alternator
Instrument cluster removal-'90 Bronco
Re: Transmission Issues?
Re: Transmission Issues?
Re: Transmission Issues?
Re: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #2
Re: Rusting 95 Bronco
Re: Instrument cluster removal-'90 Bronco
Re: Transmission Issues?
More Tranny Q's
Update: Help dead truck.
Rear Discs?
Re: Update: Help dead truck.
Re: More Tranny Q's
Re: More Tranny Q's
Re: knocking in '94 300 I-6
Re: Update: Help dead truck.
Re: Rear Discs?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "David Anderson (EUS)" am1.ericsson.se>
Subject: Re: F-150 Questions
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 12:57:54 -0600

Mike,
I like long bed 'cause it holds more but with ext cab that gets to be a
pretty long truck. Only you can determine this one. I think the 88 - 91's
are all styled alike. '92 gets a restyled front end and a new (and better
in my opinion) dashboard. Also, for auto trans, the overdrive button moves
from the dash to end of the shift stalk (better). I like the E4OD auto but
they have their share of problems. Two types of 5 speeds were available and
from what I've heard, one is the preferred one. Others that have these may
comment. Which engine you get depends upon your needs. I like the six.

I'll share my standard "before you buy check list" for these trucks:

-Dual tanks: gauges both work, accurate full to empty, fuel pumps both work,
quiet, cross filling tanks safety TSB performed
-Ignition switch safety recall performed
-Instrument voltage regulator: all gauges work and are accurate
-Smooth (not balky) engine under all conditions. (I've found these problems
hard to fix)
-Tight front end including radius arms
-Frame creaks (low speed turning on bumps) (means some rivets are loose)
-Read out engine fault codes
-Lock up the rear brakes on grass - rear ABS working?
-Rust at rear body corners (look inside)
-E-brake cables in good condition or they will freeze in winter.
-AC cold
-Make sure the transmission ratios (granny if it has one) and rear end
ratios suit your needs
-Someone else may know what to check on manual trans

Good Luck,
David Anderson

>>>>>I'm looking to buy a used F-150 in the not too distant future. For
several
reasons I'm thinking about getting an extended cab, but I'm not sure about
bed length. What are pros and cons of short vs. long bed in extended cab?
I'm also thinking of years '88-'92; were there major/important
changes/problems that you all are aware of in any of these years? What size

engine is reliable and durable? Would you go with automatic or
manual<........




------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 17:06:24 -0500
From: flagship worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Bad Alternator

I don't think you have an alternator problem at all. The high idle is
not caused by the butterfly valve. The choke only allows a lesser or
greater amount of air as necessary. On the side of the carb there is a
fast idle cam. I doubt it's electrically operated in any way. I don't
know of any way a bad alternator would cause a high idle.



Mark Gross wrote:
>
> I recently replaced my alternator because the previous one had gone bad.
> Now, this one is doing the same things and has gone bad as well after only 2
> months. The symptoms are:
> 1. RPM never kicks down from about 1800 no matter how long you drive.
> (Butterfly valve is open.)
> 2. Voltage gage on dash sits right in the middle, never moves.
> 3. Check engine light comes on just before truck dies permanently.
>
> Does anyone know what would cause an alternator to go bad? When I replaced
> the old one, all the symptoms went away temporarily. Also, the lights used
> to pulse - dim ... normal ... dim ... etc. - before I replaced the
> alternator. I never noticed it with the new one. Any help would be greatly
> appreciated. Thanks ...
>
> Mark
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
> message.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 17:18:48 -0500
From: "Koser, Richard W" lmco.com>
Subject: Rear Diff service

Hi,

My 1985 F150 I-6 300 has approx. 100K miles on it and I wanted to service
the rear differential this weekend. From the code in the door frame I have
the 3.08 rear axle (thanks for the decode "DannyF"). I was wondering if
there are any tricks to this job, and I am looking for recommendations on
what type of fluid (weight/brand) I should fill the differential with.

Thanks,
Rich Koser


------------------------------

From: "Moore, Jimmy" ZymeTx.com>
Subject: Re: Bad Alternator
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 16:19:53 -0600

Mark,
The voltage gauge should stay somewhere in the middle at all times. If it
moves to one side or the other, it is either dead or it is OVERCHARGED, both
of which are not good.

Jim Moore
1981 Ford F-150 300 Six
1964 Ford F-100 292
Oklahoma City, OK


Mark Gross wrote:
>
> I recently replaced my alternator because the previous one had gone bad.
> Now, this one is doing the same things and has gone bad as well after only
2
> months. The symptoms are:
> 1. RPM never kicks down from about 1800 no matter how long you drive.
> (Butterfly valve is open.)
> 2. Voltage gage on dash sits right in the middle, never moves.
> 3. Check engine light comes on just before truck dies permanently.
>
> Does anyone know what would cause an alternator to go bad? When I
replaced
> the old one, all the symptoms went away temporarily. Also, the lights
used
> to pulse - dim ... normal ... dim ... etc. - before I replaced the
> alternator. I never noticed it with the new one. Any help would be
greatly
> appreciated. Thanks ...
>
> Mark
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
> message.
==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
message.

------------------------------

From: apowell ezlink.com
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 15:25:45 -0700
Subject: Transmission Issues?

Gents, I followed some of the recent discussion about the AOD, AODE and
4R70W transmissions. I checked my '93 F-150 (351 engine), and its oil pan
does indeed have the "METRIC" identification stamped into it. My gear
selector has the OD "off" button in its end. According to a recent post, this
makes the tranny either an AODE or 4R70W.

The truck has 105K miles, and I hear from some friends who have used
similar trucks that transmission rebuilds around 100-125K miles are common.
I can feel that after sitting at a stoplight, whcih I accelerate, there's a "thump"
in the tranny as something takes up. it's not U-joints, as I've checked them.
My theory is that the tranny is worn enough that hydraulic pressure is leaking
down while idling, and the faint "thump" I hear is that pressure coming back
up and some component locking into place as it does. I've had a fluid and
filter service done on the tranny and there were no spare parts or shavings in
the pan, but it didn't improve the thump, either.

I'd welcome any comments about the transmission in this vehicle, its normal
characteristics and service history. My interest is in getting as much mileage
out of it as possible before it's time for a rebuild. I will have this truck for a
long time, so I'm not worried about the eventual rebuild - I just want to delay it
as long as possible. The truck is used for in-town and highway driving and
light household hauling.

Thanks.



--
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Al Powell
In Fort Collins, lovely northern Colorado
Home: 970/407-9609
Web: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ezlink.com/~powells/
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 16:26:15 -0500
From: "Eric J. McTague" bellatlantic.net>
Subject: 92 F250 4WD

Fellow Ford folk ...

I regret to say that I'm puting my truck up for sale.

Not to fear though ... I'm not "defecting" to the enemy(ch*vy or dodg*).

:)

I have a 2000 Mountaineer w/the 5.0 V8 & AWD on order.

Wanted something a bit smaller the "Mrs" will be comfortable driving as
well.

Have an ad on the FTE site # 4910.

Pictures & a detailed description can be found here ...

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/Olds_luvr/photoalbum/photoalbum/page10.html/

I hope to find it a GOOD home.

Eric

--
"EJ" In Hamilton Township, New Jersey, suburb of Trenton
On digest where availabile, not regular mail
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/Olds_luvr/photoalbum/photoalbum/index.html
E-Mail: oldsluvr bellatlantic.net
The "Fleet"
1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais.
1985 Oldsmobile Toronado.
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC.
1992 Ford F-250 Reg-Cab 4WD Pick-Up.( For Sale !)
(Have a New "2000" Mountaineer 5.0 AWD On Order. ETA Mid-March)
1994 Toyota Camry Sedan (my other halves ride).

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 14:44:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Christopher Funk darkwing.uoregon.edu>
Subject: Re: knocking in '94 300 I-6

Jim,
Thanks for the reply. What should I look for in terms of the EGR valve? I
have taken it off once to inspect it. There was some soot in there, but
nothing extreme. Could this soot be causing the valve to not seat
properly and leak? The idle seems fine. Is the valve supposed to be open
or closed in the case of hard acceleration?

-Andrew




------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 14:42:53 -0800 (PST)
From: "Casey R. Vandor" yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Help Dead truck

Ok, so I pickup my truck from the shop. They replaced three injectors, the fuel pump and the
glow plug controller. It ran fine all day. (was never shut off for more than say an hour. I
parked it at night, went to start it up this morning and it fired right off then died. I
tried restarting and couldn't even get a hint of firing. Could an air leak build up that
quick? I like the idea of putting a valve up under the hood to open up and crank until the
engine starts getting fuel, but I don't know how to go about that one. ANother idea I had was
to run replacement fuel hose (rubber not steel) from tanks to engine. I was told that the
lines might be leaking and so I thought a total replacement might fix it.


Any ideas? Possibly am I barking up the wrong tree thinking air is the culprit here?
Thanks,

=====
Casey Vandor
'88 Ford F-250 4x4 dsl
'77 Jeep CJ5
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: "Dave Harmier" gte.net>
Subject: Re: Wheel Bearings and Brakes.
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 18:02:52 -0600

>rotating the driver
>side wheel was "very" difficult, especially in comparison to
>the passenger
>side.
>
>I have next week off, so I figure I'm going to try and change
>out both front
>wheel bearings.

As it happens, when Dads 91 was in for allignment, they found bad caliper.
4 month old brakes were toast.
My truck makes similar noise, and has started to pulse under braking
(warped rotor(s))

So his gets new stuff Friday, mine next week. Sounds like you may have a
caliper problem.

Hope not!!!!

Dave H.
Houston

------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 19:18:06 EST
Subject: Re: Transmission Issues?

In a message dated 2/10/00 5:26:01 PM Eastern Standard Time,
apowell ezlink.com writes:

<< I checked my '93 F-150 (351 engine), and its oil pan
does indeed have the "METRIC" identification stamped into it. My gear
selector has the OD "off" button in its end. According to a recent post,
this
makes the tranny either an AODE or 4R70W. >>
Check the trans code on the door jamb sticker. I was mistaken in my post in
that I should have stated E4OD in that list also. If the trans code is a "U"
then you have the AODE/4R70W. If its not, email me off list and I'll look it
up for you. I would assume though, with the 5.8/351, that, as with the
Lightnings, you would have the E4OD.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 16:07:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Transmission Issues?
From: Rob Bryan netgate.net>

If it has the 5.8, it will have the E4OD, not the AOD-EW/4R70W. The pan on
my '90 Bronco's E4OD has metric stamped in it as well. I know that the AOD
pan had "Automatic Overdrive" stamped into it in script, but I don't know if
that followed when the trans was upgraded to electronic control. Also, AOD
pans were flat, while E4OD (at least 4WD ones) have a stepped appearance.

Rob

> From: apowellezlink.com
> Reply-To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
> Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 15:25:45 -0700
> To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] Transmission Issues?
>
> Gents, I followed some of the recent discussion about the AOD, AODE and
> 4R70W transmissions. I checked my '93 F-150 (351 engine), and its oil pan
> does indeed have the "METRIC" identification stamped into it. My gear
> selector has the OD "off" button in its end. According to a recent post, this
> makes the tranny either an AODE or 4R70W.


------------------------------

From: "Travis Moore" arkansas.net>
Subject: Re: Bad Alternator
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 18:19:25 -0600

Didn't catch what engine he has, but a bad alternator can cause it to run at
high idle. You are correct that the butterfly will not cause this, and
you're on track with the fast idle cam. The two are linked. If the
butterfly doesn't open all the way the fast idle cam won't rotate and let
the throttle close down. IF he has an electric choke, the power to heat it
comes directly from the alternator.

-----Original Message-----
From: 80-96-list-bounceford-trucks.com
[mailto:80-96-list-bounceford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of flagship
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 4:06 PM
To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Bad Alternator


I don't think you have an alternator problem at all. The high idle is
not caused by the butterfly valve. The choke only allows a lesser or
greater amount of air as necessary. On the side of the carb there is a
fast idle cam. I doubt it's electrically operated in any way. I don't
know of any way a bad alternator would cause a high idle.



Mark Gross wrote:
>
> I recently replaced my alternator because the previous one had gone bad.
> Now, this one is doing the same things and has gone bad as well after only
2
> months. The symptoms are:
> 1. RPM never kicks down from about 1800 no matter how long you drive.
> (Butterfly valve is open.)
> 2. Voltage gage on dash sits right in the middle, never moves.
> 3. Check engine light comes on just before truck dies permanently.
>
> Does anyone know what would cause an alternator to go bad? When I
replaced
> the old one, all the symptoms went away temporarily. Also, the lights
used
> to pulse - dim ... normal ... dim ... etc. - before I replaced the
> alternator. I never noticed it with the new one. Any help would be
greatly
> appreciated. Thanks ...
>
> Mark
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
> message.
==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
message.


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 16:25:47 -0800
Subject: Instrument cluster removal-'90 Bronco
From: Rob Bryan netgate.net>

Help! I'm trying to remove the instrument cluster on my '90 Bronco (to
bypass the 20 ohm resistor so I can get a "real" oil pressure gauge) and I
can't get it out.

I have...

Removed the surround with the vents and the lower 2 pieces with the wiper
switch et all and the OD switch.

Removed the shroud on the column and unhooked the trans indicator cable

Removed the screws holding the cluster to the dash panel

Now I can't pull it out! I can get it to move about 1/2 inch and that is
all. It seems that the speedo cable is holding it in, but I can't pull it
out enough to see the cable. I can (barely) feel the back of the cable if I
reach under the dash, but I can't get my whole hand up there because the
column is in the way.

Does anyone know how to pull this out, especially how to disconnect the
speedo cable...it isn't screwed on like the cables on older cars.

Also, does anyone know how to remove the dash vents next to the glovebox
without damaging them? I want to stick a tweeter in there (so I don't have
to cut a hole in the doorpanel), but I don't want to break the vent either.

Thanks!
Rob


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 16:42:25 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Transmission Issues?

AOD pans are not flat, they have a very large drop in the center. Nor do they have
automatic overdrive on them anywhere.

At least, the earlier ones don't.

Bob

AOD, not only a fan club member, but an owner.


Rob Bryan wrote:

> If it has the 5.8, it will have the E4OD, not the AOD-EW/4R70W. The pan on
> my '90 Bronco's E4OD has metric stamped in it as well. I know that the AOD
> pan had "Automatic Overdrive" stamped into it in script, but I don't know if
> that followed when the trans was upgraded to electronic control. Also, AOD
> pans were flat, while E4OD (at least 4WD ones) have a stepped appearance.
>
> Rob
>
> > From: apowellezlink.com
> > Reply-To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
> > Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 15:25:45 -0700
> > To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
> > Subject: [80-96-list] Transmission Issues?
> >
> > Gents, I followed some of the recent discussion about the AOD, AODE and
> > 4R70W transmissions. I checked my '93 F-150 (351 engine), and its oil pan
> > does indeed have the "METRIC" identification stamped into it. My gear
> > selector has the OD "off" button in its end. According to a recent post, this
> > makes the tranny either an AODE or 4R70W.
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
> message.


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 17:32:13 -0800
Subject: Re: Transmission Issues?
From: Rob Bryan netgate.net>

I don't know what year you were looking at, but all the ones I have seen
were pretty much flat (at least compared to an E4OD pan) and had a
noticeable "automatic overdrive" script stamped into it along one side of
the pan. "Metric" is also stamped into it. I know this for a fact as I used
to have a '87 F-150 with a 5.0 and AOD and changed the trans fluid on that
truck enough to know the pan pretty well.

Rob

> From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
> Organization: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://sites.netscape.net/nwbronco/homepage
> Reply-To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
> Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 16:42:25 -0800
> To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Transmission Issues?
>
> AOD pans are not flat, they have a very large drop in the center. Nor do they
> have
> automatic overdrive on them anywhere.
>
> At least, the earlier ones don't.
>
> Bob
>
> AOD, not only a fan club member, but an owner.
>
>
> Rob Bryan wrote:
>
>> If it has the 5.8, it will have the E4OD, not the AOD-EW/4R70W. The pan on
>> my '90 Bronco's E4OD has metric stamped in it as well. I know that the AOD
>> pan had "Automatic Overdrive" stamped into it in script, but I don't know if
>> that followed when the trans was upgraded to electronic control. Also, AOD
>> pans were flat, while E4OD (at least 4WD ones) have a stepped appearance.
>>
>> Rob


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 17:37:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Transmission Issues?
From: Rob Bryan netgate.net>

I should qualify this and say that my F-150 was a 2WD so a 4WD pan may
differ...but that pan pretty much had a flat bottom compared to the E4OD in
the truck I have now which has something like 3 different levels...

> From: Rob Bryan netgate.net>
> Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 17:32:13 -0800
> To: <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
> Subject: Re: [80-96-list] Re: Transmission Issues?
>
> I don't know what year you were looking at, but all the ones I have seen were
> pretty much flat (at least compared to an E4OD pan) and


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 19:41:58 -0600
From: Tom Wiggins earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #2

Casey: On my 6.9 , the fuel filter is mounted behind the alternater. There is a valve stem on the engine side of the fuel filter. This has a valve core that can be removed like on a tire. I presume that this is meant to bleed the air out of the system when you change the fuel filter. I believe the 7.3 is the same. You might contact Charles Ledger at dieselmannintellidog.com.
He may be able to help you out on this.
You might find a lot of good info on Ford Diesels at his web site. www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/
Tom




Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:51:59 -0800 (PST)
From: "Casey R. Vandor" yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Help! Dead truck

That might be it, I just don't get why it ran excellent for a week and then
starting having this problem. I wimped out last night and pushed it to the
chevron station since it is getting kinda chilly with no garage to work under.
I will give them a call though and relay what you said. Stupid question here,
but I am not following the valve core thing. I don't have my shop manual with
me, but is this somehting that is fairly accessible? If it matters, I have the
7.3, but I would imagine they are reasonably similar in design.

Thanks,
Casey Vandor


------------------------------

From: LGRanchaol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 21:51:07 EST
Subject: Re: Rusting 95 Bronco

ok you stated that patch panels are available for a 95 rear wheel openings.

All I can say is WHERE????????

The panels are around for pre 87's, but I have not seen then for post 87's.

I ended up buying the complete quarter panels from Ford. They are VERY
expensive.If you have a source for these POST 87 panels please post it.

------------------------------

From: LGRanchaol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 21:56:16 EST
Subject: Re: Instrument cluster removal-'90 Bronco

Can you answer me what you mean by a "real" oil pressure gauge.
I have checked my 90 bronco against a "real" gauge and it was very close.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 19:30:31 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Transmission Issues?

I guess it's Ford at it's best. I've got an "86 Bronco, 5.0 AOD.
The transmission is out right now and sitting on two blocks on the garage floor
because of the at least 2.5" nipple right in the middle of the pan.

I've actually rebuilt this one myself so I can proclaim as well, that it's an AOD.
It's my second AOD (looks just the first one) and this transmission came out of an
'86 F-150 5.0 AOD 4WD.

I've dealt with nothing but 4WD so it is possible that a difference exists there,
or the fact that I have an '86. Don't know.

Bob


Rob Bryan wrote:

> I don't know what year you were looking at, but all the ones I have seen
> were pretty much flat (at least compared to an E4OD pan) and had a
> noticeable "automatic overdrive" script stamped into it along one side of
> the pan. "Metric" is also stamped into it. I know this for a fact as I used
> to have a '87 F-150 with a 5.0 and AOD and changed the trans fluid on that
> truck enough to know the pan pretty well.
>
> Rob
>
> > From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
> > Organization: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://sites.netscape.net/nwbronco/homepage
> > Reply-To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
> > Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 16:42:25 -0800
> > To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
> > Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Transmission Issues?
> >
> > AOD pans are not flat, they have a very large drop in the center. Nor do they
> > have
> > automatic overdrive on them anywhere.
> >
> > At least, the earlier ones don't.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > AOD, not only a fan club member, but an owner.
> >
> >
> > Rob Bryan wrote:
> >
> >> If it has the 5.8, it will have the E4OD, not the AOD-EW/4R70W. The pan on
> >> my '90 Bronco's E4OD has metric stamped in it as well. I know that the AOD
> >> pan had "Automatic Overdrive" stamped into it in script, but I don't know if
> >> that followed when the trans was upgraded to electronic control. Also, AOD
> >> pans were flat, while E4OD (at least 4WD ones) have a stepped appearance.
> >>
> >> Rob
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
> message.


------------------------------

From: apowellezlink.com
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 22:31:43 -0700
Subject: More Tranny Q's

I posted earlier that the tranny in my '93 F-150 with 351 engine must be either
an AODE or 4R70W (depending on recent posts for the nomenclature).
Chilton's thinks I'm wrong. (But look how often they're wrong...) I just checked
my Chilton's and they show only the E40D transmission as the automatic
paired with the 351.

Chilton's lists these half-ton pickup engine-transmission pairs for 1993:

F-150 under 8500 GVW: Borg Warner T-18 (4 spd. manual)
F-150 under 8500 GVW, 4.0 or 5.0 liters: Mazda M50D (5-spd. man.)
F-150 8500+ GVW, ZF S5-42, (5-spd. man.)
F-150 all, Ford C6 (3-spd. man)
F-150 5.0 liter, Ford AOD (4-spd auto)
F-150 all, Ford E40D (4-spd. auto)

The AOD is listed only with the 5.0 liter in the half ton (and in the 5.0 liter
Bronco). The C6 and E40D appear in the listings for half ton, 3/4 and one-ton
pickups. From this, might one assume that the C6 and E40D are reasonably
stout transmissions? And how can I identify the E40D if it's in my truck?

Thanks. Sorry for any confusion, but inquiring minds and all that....

--
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Al Powell
In Fort Collins, lovely northern Colorado
Home: 970/407-9609
Web: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ezlink.com/~powells/
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 22:22:05 -0800 (PST)
From: "Casey R. Vandor" yahoo.com>
Subject: Update: Help dead truck.

Ok so after freezing my ass off.... I am getting lots of fuel at the water separator. If I
load up the manifold with wd-40 she will fire and start. Once she starts, it runs no problem.
But if I shut it off for more than say 6 hours, it won't start again without the wd-40. Any
diesel doctors outr there that have some insight on this. I did look at the powerstroke page,
but I can't seem to find any info (still not up to snuff on using the internet.)

Thanks,

=====
Casey Vandor
'88 Ford F-250 4x4 dsl
'77 Jeep CJ5
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 08:52:03 -0600
From: Steve Randa ch-advertising.com>
Subject: Rear Discs?

Anybody put rear disc brakes on an 80-96 w/8.8 or upgrade front & rears
for that matter. I was looking at Stainless Steel Brakes and their kit
consists of parts directly from a "Mark" model car. Does any of the big
names...Stillen, Brembo, etc. have a rear kit.

Steve Randa

------------------------------

From: "Mike" email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Update: Help dead truck.
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 08:10:08 -0700

Glow plug relay?

mike


-----Original Message-----
From: Casey R. Vandor yahoo.com>
To: Ford List <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Thursday, February 10, 2000 11:23 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] Update: Help dead truck.


:Ok so after freezing my ass off.... I am getting lots of fuel at the water
separator. If I
:load up the manifold with wd-40 she will fire and start. Once she starts,
it runs no problem.
: But if I shut it off for more than say 6 hours, it won't start again
without the wd-40. Any
:diesel doctors outr there that have some insight on this. I did look at
the powerstroke page,
:but I can't seem to find any info (still not up to snuff on using the
internet.)
:
:Thanks,
:
:=====
:Casey Vandor
:'88 Ford F-250 4x4 dsl
:'77 Jeep CJ5
:__________________________________________________
:Do You Yahoo!?
:Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
:http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com
:==========================================================
:To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
:the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
:message.
:



------------------------------

From: "Pinson" speakeasy.org>
Subject: Re: More Tranny Q's
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 07:46:40 -0800

They also listed the C6 as a Three speed Manual transmission.
What a Joke!
I would use that Manual for a good bit of kindling the next time you warm up
the old fire place.


------------------------------

From: Greg Carter entrust.com>
Subject: Re: More Tranny Q's
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 11:18:15 -0500

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.baumannengineering.com/pguide.htm

They have a identification guide, should help to answer all your questions.

Greg Carter
Entrust Technologies - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.entrust.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/buildup/dana60.html


-----Original Message-----
From: apowellezlink.com [mailto:apowellezlink.com]
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 12:32 AM
To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] More Tranny Q's


I posted earlier that the tranny in my '93 F-150 with 351 engine must be
either
an AODE or 4R70W (depending on recent posts for the nomenclature).
Chilton's thinks I'm wrong. (But look how often they're wrong...) I just
checked
my Chilton's and they show only the E40D transmission as the automatic
paired with the 351.

------------------------------

From: "Mark Behling" earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: knocking in '94 300 I-6
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 08:35:29 -0800

Hello Andrew,

I have a 95 with a 300 I6 which has recently developed a knock or ping also. However
mine occurs only when starting off in first gear in stop and go traffic. If you do find
a solution to your problem please let me know.

As far as your concern for a correctly calibrated O2 sensor, I wouldn't worry.
Basically most O2 sensors are the same, in that they all produce around .45V with a
14.7:1 air fual ratio. Just make sure the replacement has the same mount and number of
wires. There is also a good page on testing O2 sensors at:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://atlantis.austin.apple.com/people.pages/Jimbo/o2info.html

Good Luck

Mark

>Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:07:05 -0800 (PST)
>From: Andrew Christopher Funk darkwing.uoregon.edu>
>Subject: knocking in '94 300 I-6
>
>i have a F150 with the 300 I-6 with about 88k on it. about 4 weeks ago i
>noticed it was starting to knock under moderate to hard acceleration. i
>went ahead and put in new plugs, plug wires, dist. cap, and rotor, because
>these things were a little overdue anyways. the knocking seemed to go
>away for a day or so, and then returned. so here are a few questions:
>
>1)my haynes manual says that the ignition timing is not adjustable on
>some of these engines. looking at the distributor, this seems right (at
>least it isn't adjustable by rotating the cap the way i used to do on my
>older cars and trucks). is it true that i can't ajust the timing or am i
>being dense on this one?
>
>2)i was planning on replacing the O2 sensor. i am getting a little bit of
>black soot in the exhaust pipe. will this help the knocking? now as far
>as getting the O2 sensor: the ford dealer wants $94 for the O2 sensor.
>talking to some parts shops around here i have found that i can get what
>is apparently the correct bosch sensor for $48. the sensor in there now
>is a bosch (i.e. i'm not worried about the quality), but i want to make
>sure i get the correctly calibrated sensor. has anyone gotten the bosch
>sensor and does it seem to work properly. (incidently the ford part # on
>the sensor is F4UF-9F472-CA which matches with a bosch 13187, just in
>case anyone has an easy way to check such things).
>
>3)fuel filter? will this make a difference in the knocking? as far as i
>know it is the original filter. (i got the truck with 40k on it). i am
>just wondering if it is getting leaned out by a clogged filter. air
>filter looks ok (k&n filter which was cleaned about 10k miles ago and i
>don't drive in super dusty conditions).
>
>thanks in advance for any replys
>andrew
>
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
> Andrew Funk
> Department of Physics
> University of Oregon
> Eugene, OR 97403
>
>(541) 346-4726 lab


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 12:17:19 -0500
From: flagship worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Update: Help dead truck.

It still sounds as if your not getting fuel on the initial start
sequence. When you spray in fuel (WD-40) it starts and gives the pump
time to "catch up" and take over. Perhaps the pump is bleeding pressure
off over time and needs a new check valve. I don't know enough about
diesels but all they need to run is fuel, air and compression. You have
two out of the three and have to manually introduce the third.


>
> :Ok so after freezing my ass off.... I am getting lots of fuel at the water
> separator. If I
> :load up the manifold with wd-40 she will fire and start. Once she starts,
> it runs no problem.
> : But if I shut it off for more than say 6 hours, it won't start again
> without the wd-40. Any
> :diesel doctors outr there that have some insight on this. I did look at
> the powerstroke page,
> :but I can't seem to find any info (still not up to snuff on using the
> internet.)
> :
> :Thanks,
> :
> :=====
> :Casey Vandor
> :'88 Ford F-250 4x4 dsl
> :'77 Jeep CJ5
> :__________________________________________________
>

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Discs?
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 13:04:40 -0500

By "Mark" you mean lincoln? Most of these stupid kits use chevy parts as if
the ford stuff was not acceptable or something???

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Anybody put rear disc brakes on an 80-96 w/8.8 or upgrade front & rears
>for that matter. I was looking at Stainless Steel Brakes and their kit
>consists of parts directly from a "Mark" model car. Does any of the big
>names...Stillen, Brembo, etc. have a rear kit.

------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #3
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