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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Wed, 08 Mar 2000 04:52:29 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 08 Mar 2000 04:52:29 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #28
Precedence: bulk

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------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Tue, 07 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 028

In This Issue:
Wheel question
No win situation
Parking Brake Adjustment
Re: Parking Brake Adjustment
Re: Bad Clutch Design
Re: Timing
Re: Bad Clutch Design
Re: Locking gas cap
Help -- Parts Wanted
Re: Locking gas cap
Da Tranny on Da '81
Re: Bad Clutch Design
Unilite
Re: squeak
re" Transmision Q and thermostat
Re: Parking Brake Adjustment
460 Exhaust questions
Food for thought

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Harris, Scott" dfwairport.com>
Subject: Wheel question
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 05:07:24 -0600

Was telling all of you earlier about the '96 F250 i just bought. It is an
XL so it has the basic stock hubcaps on it. I want to do what everyone else
is doing and replace the wheels with the custom Ford wheels that are out
these days on the 3/4 tons and up. Not sure what they are called but they
are the ones that have sort of a swirl pattern as they come out from the hub
to the rim. What's the name and what are you all paying for them?


Thanks.

------------------------------

From: DBblueboy webtv.net (Jerome Kelly)
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 06:40:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: No win situation

I read about the new hybrid cars that get 65mpg. Don't fall for it.
Look for the price of gasoline to reach ten dollars a gallon. The oil
reserves will last longer and they can milk us forever. Heres lookin at
ya babe.



http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://community.webtv.net/DBblueboy/DayBreakblueboyblue


------------------------------

From: "Navarra, Anthony" pepsi.com>
Subject: Parking Brake Adjustment
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 07:38:56 -0500

Hello. I've been reading the list for a couple of weeks now and this my
first entry to the list. I felt encouraged by the stories on the list to
attempt my first 4 wheel brake job on my recently acquired 1989 F-250 HD
4X4, 351W w/5spd manual transmission. I have two issues with the rear wheels
that I need help with. I replaced the rear brake shoes and cylinders and
when I was putting the brake drums back on, the right drum went on easy, but
the left drum was very tight. I checked the adjuster and it was backed off
all the way. I managed to get the drum on, bled the break cylinders,
adjusted the right side and went for a test drive. The truck stopped
normally. I even stopped on a slight uphill grade and the truck rolled
backwards after it came to rest. What concerns me is the smell of over
heated brake shoe linings.

Part 2 of the problem is the parking brake. Before I serviced the brakes,
the pedal would go all the way to the floorboard and barely hold. I replaced
the parking brake adjusting screw and nut assembly, the old one was rusted
and frozen solid With the brake drums off, I applied the parking brake and
the parking brake lever barely moved. I couldn't see anything wrong so I put
the drums and tires back on and the parking brake still doesn't hold.
There's plenty of tension on the cables but the parking brake lever isn't
traveling far enough to open the brake shoes against drums.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. TIA

Anthony Navarra
914.767.7952
anthony.navarra pepsi.com


Anthony Navarra
914.767.7952
anthony.navarra pepsi.com


------------------------------

From: IMATOOLMAN aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 08:43:41 EST
Subject: Re: Parking Brake Adjustment

Check your parking brake cables They sound like they may be frozen with rust
and not working correctly going into the brakes themselves
Cheap to replace
Good Luck

------------------------------

From: "Steve Schmeckpeper" home.com>
Subject: Re: Bad Clutch Design
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 07:45:53 -0600

Rich,
Closer inspection will reveal the pedal arm and rod to be worn from metal to
metal contact. Sure, it's a poor design and Ford knows
it......................good luck on gettin' them to pay for it < >
You can replace bushings all day and they'll just keep breaking, till you
replace the pedal arm, bushing and rod. Less than $100 at your local Ford
parts counter. It's a TWO beer job for a Stepper 8^>
Smeck

P.S. This is a SAFETY ISSUE so don't put it off. If you'r stopped (in gear,
engine running) and the rod pops off the clutch pedal arm, the truck might
jump forward someone could get hurt!

----- Original Message -----

>
> I have a 95 F-250 with the PowerStroke Diesel and 5-spd manual
> transmission. It has 50K miles most of which are from city driving.
> The other day my clutch made a popping noise when I pushed it in
> so I looked under the dash and noticed the plasitc bushing that
> connects the clutch lever to the rod going through the firewall
> was worn out. I replaced the part ($4) and the next day it
> broke again

> Has anyone else had this problem and has anyone looked at trying
> to get Ford to help pay for the fix?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich



------------------------------

From: slikness mindspring.com
Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 09:51:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Timing

I've had a similar problem with my 351W with an MSD ignition and a 600 cfm Edlelbrock on an Edelbrock Performer intake. One thing I discovered was that I was getting almost my full advance at idle and I think this caused a lean condition. I was running my vacuum off the manifold and I set my timing at 8 without vacuum, when I replaced the vacuum hose, my timing advanced to 28 (still at idle). So.. I switched the vacuum port to the timed port on the carb (passenger side port) and the timing stayed at 8 with or without the vacuum hose. I then checked my advance and found that I peaked at 40 (32 degrees total advance from 8 degrees), but I'm at full advance somewhere between 2k and 2.5k. Running off the ported vacuum at 8 degrees eliminated my 2500 rpm ping; I now have the initial timing at 11 degrees and I will get a slight ping at around 2500 rpm when pulling away from a stop or just before my vacuum secondaries kick in.

I hope that helps, and let me know if you found any other tricks. I am also running Dough Thorley headers through true duals and I probably should go with a larger jet in the carb to compensate, but I haven't gotten into the carb yet.

Slik

- I have a 351W,edelbrock 600 performer manifold and stock otherwise engine except mallory unilite and promaster coil my problem is pinging at 2500rpm and over with the secondaries opened...


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 10:15:39 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki little-mountain.com>
Subject: Re: Bad Clutch Design

>Rich,
>Closer inspection will reveal the pedal arm and rod to be worn from metal to
>metal contact. Sure, it's a poor design and Ford knows
>it......................good luck on gettin' them to pay for it < >
>You can replace bushings all day and they'll just keep breaking, till you
>replace the pedal arm, bushing and rod. Less than $100 at your local Ford
>parts counter. It's a TWO beer job for a Stepper 8^>
>Smeck
>
>P.S. This is a SAFETY ISSUE so don't put it off. If you'r stopped (in gear,
>engine running) and the rod pops off the clutch pedal arm, the truck might
>jump forward someone could get hurt!
>

Why not use another material to make the bushings? Copper, brass, babbit...
something should do it without going to $1500.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."
Sick of the high fuel tax? Write your congressman
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.house.gov/writerep/



------------------------------

From: "Wallace A. Gustafson" speedchoice.com>
Subject: Re: Locking gas cap
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 11:26:31 -0700

I got my set from AutoZone (Phoenix, Arizona). They works perfect.

Wallace A. Gustafson -- a.k.a. "Cobra"
Cobra Racing & Engineering
1991 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible (Police Interceptor & Cobra Mods)
1991 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich" snet.net>
To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 8:51 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Locking gas cap


> Well, with the way the gas prices are here in Conn. Avg $1.65 for
> 87, self serve, I am thinking of getting 2 locking gas caps. Does anyone
> know of ones that will work for our trucks, without making the "check
> engine" light ome on?
> Thanks,
> Rich
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Wallace A. Gustafson" speedchoice.com>
Subject: Help -- Parts Wanted
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 12:57:49 -0700


I need the Engine Oil Cooler and Associated Hardware off of a 1994 - 1997 Ford F-150 w/ 5.8L V-8.
I want to convert my present truck over to this oil cooler setup. If someone can help find the parts, I would greatly appreciate it.
If someone can send me digital pictures as to how this mounts up in the complete truck, I would appreciate it.

Thank You For The Help.

Wallace A. Gustafson
Cobra Racing & Engineering
1991 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible (Police Interceptor & Cobra Modifications)
1991 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat



------------------------------

From: "Michael R. Dunbar" vtc.vsc.edu>
Subject: Re: Locking gas cap
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 15:55:59 -0500

As for the locking gas caps. My are made by a company called Struct. Hope it
helps

Mike Dunbar
89 F-150 XLT Lariat
White River Jct., Vermont
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/mdunbar420/truck.htm

"Just remember, the wheel's spinning but the hamster's dead"


------------------------------

From: "Moore, Jimmy" ZymeTx.com>
Subject: Da Tranny on Da '81
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 15:23:32 -0600


Okay, here's the deal. My '81 F-150 300 Six is acting up again. It is
making a squeaking noise that is mostly evident when the transmission is
engaged. When accelerated, however, the noise subsides. Or maybe just not
heard any longer. It's not really a rattling noise, and since it doesn't
occur all the time, I think I have ruled out the flywheel (especially since
I replaced it a year ago). I believe it may be the torque converter. Has
anyone ever had this problem before? At first I thought it was in the motor
because it started it after I sprayed Gumout brand carb/choke cleaner in the
carb. But I don't believe it is the motor, I believe it is the tranny. I
just forked out damn near $1000 on the front end rebuild/frame
straightening. I don't know how much another tranny will cost. I think it
is cheaper to buy a rebuilt tranny than a torque converter, isn't it? I
haven't the foggiest clue how to determine what type of transmission it is.
It does act up very often. For instance, if I start out in 1st gear on the
column, and then manually shift up to second, and then to drive, when I go
into drive it likes to slip back down into first for a few seconds. That's
really aggravating. Also, sometimes it doesn't seem to engage properly from
takeoff, it pauses for a second or two before kicking in, but that is only
very occasional.

Any help is appreciated.
Jim MOore

Jim Moore
1964 Ford F-100 292
1981 Ford F-150 300 Six
Oklahoma City, OK

------------------------------

From: Lingus0169 aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 17:48:59 EST
Subject: Re: Bad Clutch Design

i had to replace my rod,and z-arm. fortuneatley for me, my dad is a machinst
so he just welded up and if that didnt work, he made new parts, i highly
doubt ford will pay to fix your parts...good luck
nick
82 351w in 85 f150
4x4 4 speed

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 17:45:39 -0800
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Unilite

>I have a 351W,edelbrock 600 performer manifold
>and stock otherwise engine except mallory unilite
>my problem is pinging at 2500rpm
>i was told that it was the vacuum advance

I have a unilite on my 76 and if yours is like mine here is how you
tune it.(out of the box mine had way to much total timing )
To check if vac advance is inop or hanging up,pop the rotor off,remove
the two screws holding the vacum advance diaphram to the
dist.housing,remove the C-clip holding the vac.advance to a pin in the
dist.,remove the vacum advance completly and plug the vac.line.

To change the mechanical advance,do all the above plus:loosen the two
Allen set screws on the side of the dist.and remove the circlular
plate the c-clip above was attached to.You will now see some wieghts
and springs and two tabs with marks along side them.Using needle nose
pliers,bend tabs toward center to retard total timing,away from center
to advance.Each mark is roughly 10 degrees.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 12:55:20 -0600
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: squeak

At 11:46 06/03/00 -0600, you wrote:
>
>Somehow I sprayed some Gunk brand Carb/choke cleaner into my little one
>barrel carb on my 300 Six, and now it squeaks when at idle in drive. The
>squeak goes away when accelerated. Any clues?
>
>Thanks,
>Jim Moore

Jim-
I can not think of any reason why one would be related to the other. I
think it is coincidence only. Does the squeak sound like it is coming FROM
the carb? Check for loose mounting bolts on everything. It might stop above
idle just because engine smooths out and does not shake the thing that's
loose.

Fan belts often squeak when they get old; you could check there by running
the engine and giving the belts a quick shot of WD-40. Do one belt at a
time to find the culprit. Watch out for the fan blade! ;-)


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 22:20:30 -0500
From: Rich snet.net>
Subject: re" Transmision Q and thermostat

Has anyone had any expierience with Bauman Engineering in the
Carolina's? I want to get a shift kit from them for my 4R70W, but just
was wondering if anyone has dealt with them before. And also, I see that
a lot of guys are putting in a lower temp thermostat..ex. 195 down to
180. what does this actually change?
Thanks again list

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Parking Brake Adjustment
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 23:55:04 -0500

I just got done replacing the Emergency Brake Cables on the rear on both
sides on my '78 F-150.Was pretty simple to do.Don't need to take the brakes
all apart either.The cables were about $21.00 per side & the E-brake works
fine now.
-----Original Message-----
From: IMATOOLMAN aol.com aol.com>
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 8:50 AM
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Parking Brake Adjustment


>Check your parking brake cables They sound like they may be frozen with
rust
>and not working correctly going into the brakes themselves
>Cheap to replace
>Good Luck
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Mar 2000 00:04:53 -0500
From: "Theodore D. Mills" martnet.com>
Subject: 460 Exhaust questions

I'm looking at the possibility of some exhaust work on my 91 F-250 SC 4X4 460.

I am looking for the best compromise between MPG's (I know.... MPG & 460
don't go together) and performance.

I tow a travel trailer (3000 lbs now, want to upgrade someday) in the
summer, the rest of the year it's a daily driver. No real off-road except
to launch the boat on the beach.

I know that headers are probably the way to go, but $$$ is a factor and I'm
not sure I want that much hassle.

I will probably have to replace the cat converter due to a cracked outlet
tube that was welded to the pipe between the cat & muffler.

So I'm looking for suggestions for cat back. I'm thinking that a "hi flow"
converter, low restriction muffler and big pipe is what I'm after.

Don't need to turn hi RPM, the truck has 3.55 gears and E4OD. Turns around
1800 at 65 in O/D. I have never seen much more than 4000 when lead footing it.

For muffler I'd like a little sound, but can't go too loud...wife in area ;)
Just enough to give the big block away.

What's the opinion og the list on Flowmaster muffler & cat?
Maybe 3 or 4 inch pipes?

Looking for MPG & low end grunt....



Ted

N3KWQ
Aston, Pa

84 Mustang GT (in pieces)
85 Ranger XL 2WD 2.8L
91 F-250 SC 4X4x460
94 Taurus LX wagon 3.8L

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Mar 2000 05:07:46 -0500
From: S Spaulding worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Food for thought

....


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