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Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages contained in these archives without consent from the respective author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors. Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Wed, 08 Mar 2000 04:52:29 -0500 (EST) Date: Wed, 08 Mar 2000 04:52:29 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 80-96-list digest users Reply-to: 80-96-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #28 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 80-96-list Digest Tue, 07 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 028 In This Issue: Wheel question No win situation Parking Brake Adjustment Re: Parking Brake Adjustment Re: Bad Clutch Design Re: Timing Re: Bad Clutch Design Re: Locking gas cap Help -- Parts Wanted Re: Locking gas cap Da Tranny on Da '81 Re: Bad Clutch Design Unilite Re: squeak re" Transmision Q and thermostat Re: Parking Brake Adjustment 460 Exhaust questions Food for thought ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Harris, Scott" Subject: Wheel question Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 05:07:24 -0600 Was telling all of you earlier about the '96 F250 i just bought. It is an XL so it has the basic stock hubcaps on it. I want to do what everyone else is doing and replace the wheels with the custom Ford wheels that are out these days on the 3/4 tons and up. Not sure what they are called but they are the ones that have sort of a swirl pattern as they come out from the hub to the rim. What's the name and what are you all paying for them? Thanks. ------------------------------ From: DBblueboy webtv.net (Jerome Kelly) Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 06:40:06 -0500 (EST) Subject: No win situation I read about the new hybrid cars that get 65mpg. Don't fall for it. Look for the price of gasoline to reach ten dollars a gallon. The oil reserves will last longer and they can milk us forever. Heres lookin at ya babe. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://community.webtv.net/DBblueboy/DayBreakblueboyblue ------------------------------ From: "Navarra, Anthony" Subject: Parking Brake Adjustment Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 07:38:56 -0500 Hello. I've been reading the list for a couple of weeks now and this my first entry to the list. I felt encouraged by the stories on the list to attempt my first 4 wheel brake job on my recently acquired 1989 F-250 HD 4X4, 351W w/5spd manual transmission. I have two issues with the rear wheels that I need help with. I replaced the rear brake shoes and cylinders and when I was putting the brake drums back on, the right drum went on easy, but the left drum was very tight. I checked the adjuster and it was backed off all the way. I managed to get the drum on, bled the break cylinders, adjusted the right side and went for a test drive. The truck stopped normally. I even stopped on a slight uphill grade and the truck rolled backwards after it came to rest. What concerns me is the smell of over heated brake shoe linings. Part 2 of the problem is the parking brake. Before I serviced the brakes, the pedal would go all the way to the floorboard and barely hold. I replaced the parking brake adjusting screw and nut assembly, the old one was rusted and frozen solid With the brake drums off, I applied the parking brake and the parking brake lever barely moved. I couldn't see anything wrong so I put the drums and tires back on and the parking brake still doesn't hold. There's plenty of tension on the cables but the parking brake lever isn't traveling far enough to open the brake shoes against drums. Any help will be greatly appreciated. TIA Anthony Navarra 914.767.7952 anthony.navarra pepsi.com Anthony Navarra 914.767.7952 anthony.navarra pepsi.com ------------------------------ From: IMATOOLMAN aol.com Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 08:43:41 EST Subject: Re: Parking Brake Adjustment Check your parking brake cables They sound like they may be frozen with rust and not working correctly going into the brakes themselves Cheap to replace Good Luck ------------------------------ From: "Steve Schmeckpeper" Subject: Re: Bad Clutch Design Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 07:45:53 -0600 Rich, Closer inspection will reveal the pedal arm and rod to be worn from metal to metal contact. Sure, it's a poor design and Ford knows it......................good luck on gettin' them to pay for it < You can replace bushings all day and they'll just keep breaking, till you replace the pedal arm, bushing and rod. Less than $100 at your local Ford parts counter. It's a TWO beer job for a Stepper 8^> Smeck P.S. This is a SAFETY ISSUE so don't put it off. If you'r stopped (in gear, engine running) and the rod pops off the clutch pedal arm, the truck might jump forward someone could get hurt! ----- Original Message ----- > > I have a 95 F-250 with the PowerStroke Diesel and 5-spd manual > transmission. It has 50K miles most of which are from city driving. > The other day my clutch made a popping noise when I pushed it in > so I looked under the dash and noticed the plasitc bushing that > connects the clutch lever to the rod going through the firewall > was worn out. I replaced the part ($4) and the next day it > broke again > Has anyone else had this problem and has anyone looked at trying > to get Ford to help pay for the fix? > > Thanks, > > Rich ------------------------------ From: slikness mindspring.com Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 09:51:58 -0500 Subject: Re: Timing I've had a similar problem with my 351W with an MSD ignition and a 600 cfm Edlelbrock on an Edelbrock Performer intake. One thing I discovered was that I was getting almost my full advance at idle and I think this caused a lean condition. I was running my vacuum off the manifold and I set my timing at 8 without vacuum, when I replaced the vacuum hose, my timing advanced to 28 (still at idle). So.. I switched the vacuum port to the timed port on the carb (passenger side port) and the timing stayed at 8 with or without the vacuum hose. I then checked my advance and found that I peaked at 40 (32 degrees total advance from 8 degrees), but I'm at full advance somewhere between 2k and 2.5k. Running off the ported vacuum at 8 degrees eliminated my 2500 rpm ping; I now have the initial timing at 11 degrees and I will get a slight ping at around 2500 rpm when pulling away from a stop or just before my vacuum secondaries kick in. I hope that helps, and let me know if you found any other tricks. I am also running Dough Thorley headers through true duals and I probably should go with a larger jet in the carb to compensate, but I haven't gotten into the carb yet. Slik - I have a 351W,edelbrock 600 performer manifold and stock otherwise engine except mallory unilite and promaster coil my problem is pinging at 2500rpm and over with the secondaries opened... ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 10:15:39 -0500 From: Blake Malkamaki Subject: Re: Bad Clutch Design >Rich, >Closer inspection will reveal the pedal arm and rod to be worn from metal to >metal contact. Sure, it's a poor design and Ford knows >it......................good luck on gettin' them to pay for it < >You can replace bushings all day and they'll just keep breaking, till you >replace the pedal arm, bushing and rod. Less than $100 at your local Ford >parts counter. It's a TWO beer job for a Stepper 8^> >Smeck > >P.S. This is a SAFETY ISSUE so don't put it off. If you'r stopped (in gear, >engine running) and the rod pops off the clutch pedal arm, the truck might >jump forward someone could get hurt! > Why not use another material to make the bushings? Copper, brass, babbit... something should do it without going to $1500. Blake Little Mountain Concord, Ohio Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake "Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed." "An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...." Sick of the high fuel tax? Write your congressman http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.house.gov/writerep/ ------------------------------ From: "Wallace A. Gustafson" Subject: Re: Locking gas cap Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 11:26:31 -0700 I got my set from AutoZone (Phoenix, Arizona). They works perfect. Wallace A. Gustafson -- a.k.a. "Cobra" Cobra Racing & Engineering 1991 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible (Police Interceptor & Cobra Mods) 1991 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich" To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com> Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 8:51 PM Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Locking gas cap > Well, with the way the gas prices are here in Conn. Avg $1.65 for > 87, self serve, I am thinking of getting 2 locking gas caps. Does anyone > know of ones that will work for our trucks, without making the "check > engine" light ome on? > Thanks, > Rich > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the > message. > ------------------------------ From: "Wallace A. Gustafson" Subject: Help -- Parts Wanted Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 12:57:49 -0700 I need the Engine Oil Cooler and Associated Hardware off of a 1994 - 1997 Ford F-150 w/ 5.8L V-8. I want to convert my present truck over to this oil cooler setup. If someone can help find the parts, I would greatly appreciate it. If someone can send me digital pictures as to how this mounts up in the complete truck, I would appreciate it. Thank You For The Help. Wallace A. Gustafson Cobra Racing & Engineering 1991 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible (Police Interceptor & Cobra Modifications) 1991 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat ------------------------------ From: "Michael R. Dunbar" Subject: Re: Locking gas cap Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 15:55:59 -0500 As for the locking gas caps. My are made by a company called Struct. Hope it helps Mike Dunbar 89 F-150 XLT Lariat White River Jct., Vermont http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/mdunbar420/truck.htm "Just remember, the wheel's spinning but the hamster's dead" ------------------------------ From: "Moore, Jimmy" Subject: Da Tranny on Da '81 Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 15:23:32 -0600 Okay, here's the deal. My '81 F-150 300 Six is acting up again. It is making a squeaking noise that is mostly evident when the transmission is engaged. When accelerated, however, the noise subsides. Or maybe just not heard any longer. It's not really a rattling noise, and since it doesn't occur all the time, I think I have ruled out the flywheel (especially since I replaced it a year ago). I believe it may be the torque converter. Has anyone ever had this problem before? At first I thought it was in the motor because it started it after I sprayed Gumout brand carb/choke cleaner in the carb. But I don't believe it is the motor, I believe it is the tranny. I just forked out damn near $1000 on the front end rebuild/frame straightening. I don't know how much another tranny will cost. I think it is cheaper to buy a rebuilt tranny than a torque converter, isn't it? I haven't the foggiest clue how to determine what type of transmission it is. It does act up very often. For instance, if I start out in 1st gear on the column, and then manually shift up to second, and then to drive, when I go into drive it likes to slip back down into first for a few seconds. That's really aggravating. Also, sometimes it doesn't seem to engage properly from takeoff, it pauses for a second or two before kicking in, but that is only very occasional. Any help is appreciated. Jim MOore Jim Moore 1964 Ford F-100 292 1981 Ford F-150 300 Six Oklahoma City, OK ------------------------------ From: Lingus0169 aol.com Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 17:48:59 EST Subject: Re: Bad Clutch Design i had to replace my rod,and z-arm. fortuneatley for me, my dad is a machinst so he just welded up and if that didnt work, he made new parts, i highly doubt ford will pay to fix your parts...good luck nick 82 351w in 85 f150 4x4 4 speed ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 17:45:39 -0800 From: scott Subject: Unilite >I have a 351W,edelbrock 600 performer manifold >and stock otherwise engine except mallory unilite >my problem is pinging at 2500rpm >i was told that it was the vacuum advance I have a unilite on my 76 and if yours is like mine here is how you tune it.(out of the box mine had way to much total timing ) To check if vac advance is inop or hanging up,pop the rotor off,remove the two screws holding the vacum advance diaphram to the dist.housing,remove the C-clip holding the vac.advance to a pin in the dist.,remove the vacum advance completly and plug the vac.line. To change the mechanical advance,do all the above plus:loosen the two Allen set screws on the side of the dist.and remove the circlular plate the c-clip above was attached to.You will now see some wieghts and springs and two tabs with marks along side them.Using needle nose pliers,bend tabs toward center to retard total timing,away from center to advance.Each mark is roughly 10 degrees. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 12:55:20 -0600 From: Jim Cannon Subject: Re: squeak At 11:46 06/03/00 -0600, you wrote: > >Somehow I sprayed some Gunk brand Carb/choke cleaner into my little one >barrel carb on my 300 Six, and now it squeaks when at idle in drive. The >squeak goes away when accelerated. Any clues? > >Thanks, >Jim Moore Jim- I can not think of any reason why one would be related to the other. I think it is coincidence only. Does the squeak sound like it is coming FROM the carb? Check for loose mounting bolts on everything. It might stop above idle just because engine smooths out and does not shake the thing that's loose. Fan belts often squeak when they get old; you could check there by running the engine and giving the belts a quick shot of WD-40. Do one belt at a time to find the culprit. Watch out for the fan blade! ;-) Jim Cannon Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech '29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!" '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 22:20:30 -0500 From: Rich Subject: re" Transmision Q and thermostat Has anyone had any expierience with Bauman Engineering in the Carolina's? I want to get a shift kit from them for my 4R70W, but just was wondering if anyone has dealt with them before. And also, I see that a lot of guys are putting in a lower temp thermostat..ex. 195 down to 180. what does this actually change? Thanks again list ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" Subject: Re: Parking Brake Adjustment Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 23:55:04 -0500 I just got done replacing the Emergency Brake Cables on the rear on both sides on my '78 F-150.Was pretty simple to do.Don't need to take the brakes all apart either.The cables were about $21.00 per side & the E-brake works fine now. -----Original Message----- From: IMATOOLMAN aol.com To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com <80-96-list ford-trucks.com> Date: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 8:50 AM Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Parking Brake Adjustment >Check your parking brake cables They sound like they may be frozen with rust >and not working correctly going into the brakes themselves >Cheap to replace >Good Luck >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with >the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the >message. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Mar 2000 00:04:53 -0500 From: "Theodore D. Mills" Subject: 460 Exhaust questions I'm looking at the possibility of some exhaust work on my 91 F-250 SC 4X4 460. I am looking for the best compromise between MPG's (I know.... MPG & 460 don't go together) and performance. I tow a travel trailer (3000 lbs now, want to upgrade someday) in the summer, the rest of the year it's a daily driver. No real off-road except to launch the boat on the beach. I know that headers are probably the way to go, but $$$ is a factor and I'm not sure I want that much hassle. I will probably have to replace the cat converter due to a cracked outlet tube that was welded to the pipe between the cat & muffler. So I'm looking for suggestions for cat back. I'm thinking that a "hi flow" converter, low restriction muffler and big pipe is what I'm after. Don't need to turn hi RPM, the truck has 3.55 gears and E4OD. Turns around 1800 at 65 in O/D. I have never seen much more than 4000 when lead footing it. For muffler I'd like a little sound, but can't go too loud...wife in area ;) Just enough to give the big block away. What's the opinion og the list on Flowmaster muffler & cat? Maybe 3 or 4 inch pipes? Looking for MPG & low end grunt.... Ted N3KWQ Aston, Pa 84 Mustang GT (in pieces) 85 Ranger XL 2WD 2.8L 91 F-250 SC 4X4x460 94 Taurus LX wagon 3.8L ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Mar 2000 05:07:46 -0500 From: S Spaulding Subject: Food for thought .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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