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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Thu, 10 Feb 2000 12:58:50 -0500 (EST) Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 12:58:50 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 80-96-list digest users Reply-to: 80-96-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #2 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 80-96-list Digest Wed, 09 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 002 In This Issue: Re: - Bad Alternator Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come.. Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come.. Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come.. Re: camber questions Re: New Guy Re: E4OD to a C6 Re: Gary's Message Re: Welcome, puny 302's :-) Re: E4OD to a C6 Re: E4OD to a C6 Re: Welcome, puny 302's :-) Re: E4OD to a C6 Re: Brake Pads & Wheel Bearings Re: E4OD to a C6 Re: E4OD to a C6 Brake Pads & Wheel Bearings Re: '90 F-150 Heater Core Re: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #1 Re: PCV Valve question Re: PCV Valve question knocking in '94 300 I-6 Re: Help! Dead truck Am I getting through? Re: Am I getting through? Loose, or is it Lose? Wheel bearings Re: Am I getting through? Re: Wheel bearings Shaved head and p/v clearance Re: Bad Alternator old and new ... Re: camber questions Re: Wheel bearings Re: E4OD to a C6 Re: 90 Heater Core replacement Re: Brake job on 89 Re: PCV Valve question egr vlave for 300 EFI Re: knocking in '94 300 I-6 Re: egr vlave for 300 EFI Re: PCV Valve question Re: Broken doorlocks and shoddy work ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: - Bad Alternator Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:01:46 -0500 The alternator does not do anything to cause a fast idle, these are two separate issues. It sounds like you have some component in your truck which is at least intermittantly shorting and damaging the diodes or regulator in the alternator. A poor chassis to body ground or battery ground will cause elevated amperage across the regulator due to voltage drop to the accessories along with any number of other possibilities. 86 happens to be a year Ford did not do it's homework on the idle speed servo. I don't know what the fix it but this is the culprit. My cougar did this intermittantly for 110k miles but after the servo wore itself out it just quit doing anything and it idled normally all the time, even when cold......which was a bit of a bummer but better than trying to go down an icy street with engine racing......:-( Stupid car stayed sideways most of the winter due to this...... -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >I have an '86 F-250 with a 460 in it. My RPM stayed high all >the time - >about 1800 - regardless of how long the truck was operating. >died, I decided to replace the alternator. That fixed the >problem for about >two months, and I was a happy camper. Then the RPM started >doing the same >thing. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 12:06:48 -0500 From: James Oxley Subject: Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come.. Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote: > > I've entertained the idea of after market stuff but OEM stuff is for the > birds or city slickers and desk jockies not people who do their own work on > vehicles. All I've needed for just about anything with EEC-IV was a good multimeter with frequency meas. and a breakout box. Everything else, I needed for older rigs anyway (cept HP fuel guage). OX It's too difficult to diagnose without investing in more > equipment but since this is the way of the future at least this would be a > "good" investment if you do your own work :-) > > Now that I am on the 80-96 list I will probably be investing in some new > equipment..... > > -- > Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, > 78 Bronco Loving, Gary > -- > > >electronic stuff, you can buy (or will be able to shortly) equipment to > >tweak it on the fly and at a level not approachable in non-computer > >controlled stuff. > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the > message. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 12:07:41 -0500 From: James Oxley Subject: Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come.. Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote: > Now that I am on the 80-96 list I will probably be investing in some new > equipment..... > Not only that, list traffic will double, LOL!!!!! Couldn't resist good buddy!!!!!! OX ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come.. Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:26:27 -0500 Noticed that already but got to do it. If it gets too hot I'll drop the rust list :-) -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > Not only that, list traffic will double, LOL!!!!! Couldn't resist good >buddy!!!!!! > > OX ------------------------------ From: "Phil & Debi" Subject: Re: camber questions Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:31:17 -0500 > You must have a lift kit in it. When it was installed > it must not have been complete and now there's > isn't enough adjustment left to do a proper alignment. > << I took my 91 F150 4x4 in for a front end alignment and they couldnt do it, > they said I needed a camber kit. >> The truck is stock height, no lift kit. Phil Beattie 66 F100 70 F100 79 F250 4x4 91 F150 4x4 www.geocities.com/imstobu ------------------------------ From: "DannyF" Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:45:45 -0600 Subject: Re: New Guy Date sent: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 20:26:47 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server > Hello All, > > I am a recent new owner of a 1985 F-150 2WD, and member of the list. I > picked it up for a mere $300, I could not resist. I am looking for some > specs on my truck. Here are the code that are listed on the door frame: > > Engine: I-300 > Transmission Code: W > Axle Code: 18 > Spring Code: A (maybe AV hard to tell) > > Specifically I am interested in things like horsepower and torque > ratings, > transmission type/gear ratios and axle ratio. Also, does anyone know if > this > configuration is setup for towing, everyday driving, or something else? > Any > information would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks in advance, > Rich Koser The axle code is probably the most common Ford used in the '80/90's trucks. Its the 3.08 no posi-trac, traction-loc, whatever term you like. Trans code is the common C5(no OD). So thats going to be a 1:1 in 3rd. Gross towing weight w/my '90 F-150 300-6 E4OD lists as ~6500lbs. gross. That should be in your ballpark also. Danny fitz011 ev1.net------------------------------ From: FLR150 aol.comDate: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:50:06 EST Subject: Re: E4OD to a C6 In a message dated 2/9/00 8:55:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, luxjo thecore.comwrites: << , I'd try to locate the computer that used the C-6 just in case. Then if it runs crappy, you know where to get the right computer. >> On the C-6 there was no computer control. it had an actual speedo cable to connect with the speedometer. On the EECIV controlled trucks with the E4OD, the transmission has a speed sensor in it to help the computer control shift points and such. We have gone over this on another list several times. If you want to change the trans., get a computer from a stick shift truck and check if the speed sensor will adapt into the C6 Later Wayne Foy '94Flareside SC ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: Gary's Message Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:51:45 -0500 This is a fix a tranny repair guy told me about. He didn't give me the details of course but I am aware of these things now. Bauman Engineering has parts you can replace to fix many of these problems. Just haven't got to it yet but it's getting worse to I will be putting it higher on the list soon :-) It all has to do with adjusting the line pressure to the converter so that it snaps home quicker. MIne has been chattering so long now this may not be enough for my case so I am prepared to rebuild the converter as well. -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >Hey Gary, After reading your message I couldn't help but be a little >scared. I have a 96 F150 with the 4R70W "non-converter >locking" trans. I >have 80K on the trans. I would be interested in finding out more about >what you said about "drilling holes" so the converter will lock up ------------------------------ From: FLR150 aol.comDate: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:51:54 EST Subject: Re: Welcome, puny 302's :-) In a message dated 2/9/00 10:54:08 AM Eastern Standard Time, gpeters3 visteon.com writes:<< Yeah, I deliberately baited the mustang crowd :-) They have to work to get 430 HP :-) >> Ummm...don't forget Gary, my 302 is in a TRUCK!!! Later Wayne Foy '94 Flareside SC (430hp 5.0 powered) ------------------------------ From: FLR150 aol.comDate: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:53:13 EST Subject: Re: E4OD to a C6 In a message dated 2/9/00 11:00:24 AM Eastern Standard Time, gpeters3 visteon.com writes:<< .has anyone ever tried to use a plain, non-locking converter with either the E4OD or the 4R70W? Do the input shafts etc. match up with older converters? >> Art Carr makes a non lockup convertor for these transmissions, but it is not recommended for daily driven use because of the intense heat build up. They sell these as "race" convertors. Later Wayne Foy '94 Flareside SC ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: E4OD to a C6 Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:09:55 -0500 Yeah, it's pretty amazing how much heat they generate and the converter is actually taken out of the loop since it is no longer pumping. The OD gear set must really generate a lot of heat, eh? Millions of C-6's ran with no cooler and pulled trailers all their lives with no problems so what's the difference? -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >but it is not >recommended for daily driven use because of the intense heat >build up. ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: Welcome, puny 302's :-) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:10:50 -0500 See, that proves it......I wasn't baiting you :-) -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >Ummm...don't forget Gary, my 302 is in a TRUCK!!! ------------------------------ From: FLR150 aol.comDate: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:16:14 EST Subject: Re: E4OD to a C6 In a message dated 2/9/00 1:11:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, gpeters3 visteon.com writes:<< Millions of C-6's ran with no cooler and pulled trailers all their lives with no problems so what's the difference? >> The lockup. Later Wayne Foy '94 Flareside SC ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: Brake Pads & Wheel Bearings Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:18:44 -0500 2wd is a piece a cake but the wedges in the calipers, if it has the wedge type, have rubber inserts and have to be driven out with a punch. Just take care not to deform them when punching them out and you will be fine. When installing the bearings, torque the nut to seat the bearings (about 50# is enough) then back it out till you get a little play and take it back in till all play just comes out with the next slot and put the cotter key in. Tapered bearings must have zero or some free play to operate correctly but disk brakes need tight bearings to prevent wobble in the rotor so attempt to get zero free play but don't preload them like some books "seem" to be telling you. There is considerable leeway in this so don't let it scare you. One notch off either way probably won't make a bit of difference except that the brakes will be a little more spongy if you get them too loose. Due to the residual we have been discussing one wheel may turn harder than the other due to many factors so I would not be concerned about that in and of itself but if there are other signs then it may be a clue. -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >rotating the driver >side wheel was "very" difficult, especially in comparison to >the passenger >side. > >I have next week off, so I figure I'm going to try and change >out both front >wheel bearings. ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: E4OD to a C6 Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:20:28 -0500 Seems like with the converter not moving internally lockup would tend to keep things cooler? -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >The lockup. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 13:27:24 -0500 From: James Oxley Subject: Re: E4OD to a C6 FLR150 aol.com wrote:> > In a message dated 2/9/00 8:55:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, luxjo thecore.com> writes: > > << , I'd try to locate the computer that used the C-6 > just in case. Then if it runs crappy, you know where to get the right > computer. >> > On the C-6 there was no computer control. Yes, I meant the engine computer that would go with a C-6, or no computer control of tranny. On the EECIV controlled trucks with the E4OD, > the transmission has a speed sensor in it to help the computer control shift > points and such. I thought that was what the rear diff sensor was for. There are 2 speed sensors??? I know a guy with a 93 bronco and when he disconnected his diff sensor, the trans wouldn't shift for squat. OX ------------------------------ From: "Stephen W.Hansen" Subject: Brake Pads & Wheel Bearings Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:29:35 -0600 When I did my front brakes on mine it ended up being a bit more work than expected. Now I always turn the rotors, many times the warpage can't be seen with the eye. I doubt the bearings are bad, more than likely the caliper is sticking a bit. In my case it was easier and cheaper to replace the calipers than rebuild them. Once you get it all apart you can figure out what is wrong. Stephen Hansen 92 F250 50 F-1 ------------------------------ From: "Stephen W.Hansen" Subject: Re: '90 F-150 Heater Core Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:34:35 -0600 The early 90's heater core on the f-series line is about the easiest one to change I have ever seen. They did it on shadetree mechanic, and I thought it wasn't a fair representation of a heater core change. I wonder how many people started tearing the dash apart to replace the core thinking "it's real easy" Stephen Hansen 92 F250 50 F-1 ------------------------------ From: "Borck, Bryan" Subject: Re: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #1 Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 10:41:46 -0800 Mike, Is this 2WD or 4WD? 4WD requires a little more work, 2WD - I can't think of any advice other than make sure you get the correct bearings the first time # #!Bryan Borck 89 F250 4X4 7.3 Dsl ------------------------------ From: "Michael R. Dunbar" Subject: Brake Pads & Wheel Bearings Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:13:16 -0500 Looking at the Haynes manual I've got didn't help to explain things too much, so I'm asking rather than avoid serious issues later. Last week I put on a new set of tires on the front, for financial reasons, I had done the rear in the fall and held out for the front. Anyway, the place I bought the tires at saved me a couple of bucks by having me do all the work, minus mounting and balancing. So, while I had the front end in the air and the tires off I poked around and checked out the brakes and rotors. The rotors appeared in good shape and didn't look warped. However, rotating the driver side wheel was "very" difficult, especially in comparison to the passenger side. I had noticed towards the end of the fall, just before I started driving with the windows rolled up all of the time, there was a high pitch noise coming from the left front. I figured it was either my brakes starting to go or my wheel bearings. I narrowed it down to bearings because the noise would not disappear or change in pitch when hitting the brakes.... until I slowed to a certain point, then it would cease. I have next week off, so I figure I'm going to try and change out both front wheel bearings. Since I have to dismantle everything, I figured it would be just as good a time to replace the brake pads as well. I'm looking for any advice, anything I should look for, or anything I should or should "not" do when doing this. As I said before, the Haynes manual I've got didn't help too much, I'm hoping it's fairly straightforward. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! Mike Dunbar 89 F-150 XLT Lariat White River Jct., Vermont "Just remember, the wheel's spinning but the hamster's dead" Pet Peeve of a Goldfish: "Just because I have a three-second memory, they don't think I'll mind eating the same fish flakes ... Oh boy! Fish flakes!" ------------------------------ From: Eric Sneed Subject: Re: PCV Valve question Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:02:32 -0800 Is there an actual hole in both in both nipples?, I ask because mine(89 300 L6) has these two nipples but one is not used(no hole). Eric -----Original Message----- From: MRStace84 aol.com [SMTP:MRStace84aol.com]Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 5:20 AM To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.comSubject: [80-96-list] PCV Valve question Hello List, My 84 F150 300 I-6 has a PCV valve with two nipples, a large one and a smaller one. I know the large one goes to the carb baseplate. Does anyone know where the small one should connnect? Thanks, Stacy Fisher 84 F150 4x4 98 Ranger XLT 4x4 ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com withthe words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the message. ------------------------------ From: MRStace84 aol.comDate: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 14:53:01 EST Subject: Re: PCV Valve question In a message dated 2/9/00 2:11:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, ESneed reil.comwrites: << Is there an actual hole in both in both nipples?, I ask because mine(89 300 L6) has these two nipples but one is not used(no hole). Eric >> Yes, both nipples have holes. Stacy 84 F150 4x4 98 Ranger XLT 4x4 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:07:05 -0800 (PST) From: Andrew Christopher Funk Subject: knocking in '94 300 I-6 i have a F150 with the 300 I-6 with about 88k on it. about 4 weeks ago i noticed it was starting to knock under moderate to hard acceleration. i went ahead and put in new plugs, plug wires, dist. cap, and rotor, because these things were a little overdue anyways. the knocking seemed to go away for a day or so, and then returned. so here are a few questions: 1)my haynes manual says that the ignition timing is not adjustable on some of these engines. looking at the distributor, this seems right (at least it isn't adjustable by rotating the cap the way i used to do on my older cars and trucks). is it true that i can't ajust the timing or am i being dense on this one? 2)i was planning on replacing the O2 sensor. i am getting a little bit of black soot in the exhaust pipe. will this help the knocking? now as far as getting the O2 sensor: the ford dealer wants $94 for the O2 sensor. talking to some parts shops around here i have found that i can get what is apparently the correct bosch sensor for $48. the sensor in there now is a bosch (i.e. i'm not worried about the quality), but i want to make sure i get the correctly calibrated sensor. has anyone gotten the bosch sensor and does it seem to work properly. (incidently the ford part # on the sensor is F4UF-9F472-CA which matches with a bosch 13187, just in case anyone has an easy way to check such things). 3)fuel filter? will this make a difference in the knocking? as far as i know it is the original filter. (i got the truck with 40k on it). i am just wondering if it is getting leaned out by a clogged filter. air filter looks ok (k&n filter which was cleaned about 10k miles ago and i don't drive in super dusty conditions). thanks in advance for any replys andrew ---------------------------------------------------------- Andrew Funk Department of Physics University of Oregon Eugene, OR 97403 (541) 346-4726 lab afunk darkwing.uoregon.eduhttp://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://darkwing.uoregon.edu/~afunk ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:51:59 -0800 (PST) From: "Casey R. Vandor" Subject: Re: Help! Dead truck That might be it, I just don't get why it ran excellent for a week and then starting having this problem. I wimped out last night and pushed it to the chevron station since it is getting kinda chilly with no garage to work under. I will give them a call though and relay what you said. Stupid question here, but I am not following the valve core thing. I don't have my shop manual with me, but is this somehting that is fairly accessible? If it matters, I have the 7.3, but I would imagine they are reasonably similar in design. Thanks, Casey Vandor >>>>>> Tom writes; I ran into the same problem with my new 87 6.9 several weeks ago and after going thru hell with it dying on me, I learned that it is sucking air in to the system. I dropped the front tank and it was clean, check the transfer valve, it was ok. I have noticed the fuel line next to the frame rail where the plastic line is shrinked to the steel line is wet. I suspect that air is being sucked in at ths point. I carried a valve core removal tool and would remove the core when it quit me on the road. Then I would crank the engine by jumping the solenoid on the right fender well untill the fuel started coming thru, install the valve core and presto it would start right up. I have been told that the water seperator might be the cause of a air leak. I'm going to get rid of the diesel because of rising cost of fuel. I'm going to propane .90 gallon with the road tax included. You might tryputting a gallon on regular gas in your fuel to help with the gelling problem. I hope this helps, Tom __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ From: "Robert Werner" Subject: Am I getting through? Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 21:26:27 +0000 My e-mail has been screwed up lately, so I was just wondering if anyone is getting my mails. Thanks ------------------------------ From: "Moore, Jimmy" Subject: Re: Am I getting through? Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 15:39:56 -0600 I hear ya loud and clear! Jim Moore 1981 Ford F-150 300 Six 1964 Ford F-100 292 Oklahoma City, OK -----Original Message----- From: Robert Werner [mailto:robertwerner postmaster.co.uk]Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 3:26 PM To: 80-96 list Subject: [80-96-list] Am I getting through? My e-mail has been screwed up lately, so I was just wondering if anyone is getting my mails. Thanks ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com withthe words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the message. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 16:36:58 -0500 From: Paul Subject: Loose, or is it Lose? I am getting confused by some posts as to what they are meaning. "Loose" means to unloosen, like a nut on a bolt, or not tight, as in the part rattled because it is loose. "Lose" means to not have any more, as in losing your wallet. Now to get back to removing that part way in there....wait; I'd better get my socket extinction! The Professor ------------------------------ From: slikness mindspring.comDate: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 16:43:02 -0500 Subject: Wheel bearings I don't know how different the '89s are from my '82, but my Chilton's gives an excellent step by step for removing the calipers, rotors, and bearings. I assume you will be replacing both inner and outer bearings along with the grease seal. Mine is a 2WD F150 and has the single piston caliper. If you're interested and if you think it will be useful, I will send you the step by step instructions via e-mail from my manual. Slik "Looking at the Haynes manual I've got didn't help to explain things too much... .. I'm going to try and change out both front wheel bearings. Since I have to dismantle everything, I figured it would be just as good a time to replace the brake pads as well. I'm looking for any advice..." ------------------------------ From: slikness mindspring.comDate: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 16:44:24 -0500 Subject: Re: Am I getting through? My e-mail has been screwed up lately, so I was just wondering if anyone is getting my mails... Yes..... Slik ------------------------------ From: "Michael R. Dunbar" Subject: Re: Wheel bearings Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 16:58:45 -0500 That would be great, especially since all the local auto stores don't carry Chilton's. Mike Dunbar 89 F-150 XLT Lariat White River Jct., Vermont "Just remember, the wheel's spinning but the hamster's dead" Pet Peeve of a Goldfish: "Just because I have a three-second memory, they don't think I'll mind eating the same fish flakes ... Oh boy! Fish flakes!" > -----Original Message----- > From: slikness mindspring.com [mailto:sliknessmindspring.com]> Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 4:43 PM > To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com> Subject: [80-96-list] Wheel bearings > > > I don't know how different the '89s are from my '82, but my > Chilton's gives an excellent step by step for removing the > calipers, rotors, and bearings. I assume you will be replacing > both inner and outer bearings along with the grease seal. Mine > is a 2WD F150 and has the single piston caliper. If you're > interested and if you think it will be useful, I will send you > the step by step instructions via e-mail from my manual. > > Slik > > "Looking at the Haynes manual I've got didn't help to explain > things too much... > .. I'm going to try and change out both front wheel bearings. > Since I have to dismantle everything, I figured it would be just > as good a time to replace the brake pads as well. I'm looking for > any advice..." > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the > message. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 15:11:00 -0800 From: Chuck Sanborn Subject: Shaved head and p/v clearance Along with a potential smog certification problem, I have to run a couple of tests for blown head gasket on my newly acquire '86 I-6. If I have to replace that gasket, I will have a valve job done also as the truck has 130K on the clock. Would it do any good at all to shave the head by .020 to .030 and if I did that would I have piston to valve clearance problems? I know I ran it really close on my 289 with 351W heads and don't really want to do that again. Thanks Chuck Sanborn Torrance, CA 1964 Falcon Sprint 1986 F150 six banger (Hers) ------------------------------ From: "Serian" Subject: Re: Bad Alternator Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 18:22:42 -0500 If your truck is of the age where it still uses the external fender mounted regulator, you might want to replace it if it is old. Also, check for good connections between components, and good ground connections to where they are supposed to be. ------------------------------ From: "Serian" Subject: old and new ... Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 18:26:51 -0500 Gary says: > I'm already in love with my 460/C-6/NP205 and even a > whole room full of naked......could not draw me away naked fuel injectors ? :-P ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 19:27:53 -0500 From: S Spaulding Subject: Re: camber questions It isn't that unusual to need a camber kit. there is little adjustment in the individual bushings. You have to get bushings in a different range, or get adjustable ones. My '91 F150 4x4 needed different bushings when it was delivered new. Steve Phil & Debi wrote: > > > You must have a lift kit in it. When it was installed > > it must not have been complete and now there's > > isn't enough adjustment left to do a proper alignment. > > << I took my 91 F150 4x4 in for a front end alignment and they couldnt do > it, > > they said I needed a camber kit. >> > > The truck is stock height, no lift kit. > > Phil Beattie > 66 F100 > 70 F100 > 79 F250 4x4 > 91 F150 4x4 > www.geocities.com/imstobu > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the > message. ------------------------------ From: slikness mindspring.comDate: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 19:58:08 -0500 Subject: Re: Wheel bearings >I will send you the step by step instructions via e-mail from my manual....: Replace pads... ..... 3. Dip out a part of the fluid from the larger portion of the master cylinder. 4. Jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on jackstands. 5. Remove the front wheel. 6. Using an 8" (203mm) C-clamp, bottom the caliper piston by positioning the fixed end of the clamp against the inner side of the cliper and tightening the clamp against the outer pad. 7. Remove the clamp. Remoe the key retaining screw. 8. Using a brass drift and light hammer, drive out the caliper support key, and caliper support spring. 9. It is not necessary o disconect the brake hose. 10. Remove the caliper from its suppor assembly by pushing downward toward the spindle and rotating the upper end upward and out of the spindle assembly. Support the caliper with a length of wire so that no stress is placed upon the brake hose. 11. Clean and inspect the caliper assembley. NOTES from Slik: Step 6, I used a 6" C-clamp and it worked fine Step 7, the key retaining screw is located at the bottom rear of the caliper (wish I could scan some pics for ya) Step 8, I just used my cold steed chisel to tap the support key and spring out Step 10, As I pulled the top of the caliper upward, I tapped the bottom of the caliper with a hammer, came right out Remember to put the anti-rattle clip back on the inner pad (between piston and back of pad) when re-assembling Rotor/bearing removal ...tap the dut cap off the hub and rotor assembly ...remove the dust cap to expose the hub bearing retainer and nut ...remove the cotter pin from the retainer ...remove the retainer to expose the nut ...remove the retainer nut ...remove the outer bearing retaining washer ...remove the outer bearing ...lift the hub and rotor assembly off the spindle ...carefully pry the grease seal from the hub and rotor assembly (rear) ...remove inner bearing ...thoroughly clean the races and hub ...clean and repack the bearings ...install the inner bearing ...install a new grease seal. Use a seal driver or socket to seat the seal flush with the hub end. DO NOT drive the seal in below flush! ...clean the spindle and position the rotor ...hold the rotor straight and install the outer bearing ...clean and install the washer ...install the nut and torque it to 17-25 ft. lbs. while turning the rotor. This seats the bearings. Back off the nut to the loose position, and tighten it to 10-15 inch lbs. ...install a new cotter pin. If the holes and castellations don't line up, ADVANCE the nut until they do ...install the dust cap Hope that helps, Slik ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 19:08:37 -0600 From: David Cole Subject: Re: E4OD to a C6 I don't normally post for sale items to the lists I'm on, but with the talk about the C-6: If anyone is interested I have a small block C-6/stock converter for sale cheap. Trans has sat for a while and prob needs new seals etc., but no broken hard parts. Located in ne Alabama. Later, David Cole ------------------------------ From: "Dave Harmier" Subject: Re: 90 Heater Core replacement Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 19:22:15 -0600 On our gone 88, or Dads 91 it is cake easy, pull the glove box and take out some screws. On my 92, After doing it twice (damn parts store replacement!) I found you need some swivels and extensions and to hold your tongue just right. On my old 79, it was a royal pain! So give me an 87-91 on which to change the core any day! Dave H. Houston ------------------------------ From: "Dave Harmier" Subject: Re: Brake job on 89 Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 19:35:40 -0600 Dude, My one contribution (well two) to this would be..... Lube the sliders for the calipers, it'll be apparent when apart where I mean. (I used high temp antiseize) And speaking of calipers, make sure both are free, I saw mine retract slightly (after taking proper precautions) with an assistant on the pedal, so I knew they were ok. Your mileage may CERTAINLY vary! Dave H. Houston, TX ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 20:47:35 -0600 From: Jim Cannon Subject: Re: PCV Valve question At 08:20 09/02/00 EST, you wrote: >Hello List, > >My 84 F150 300 I-6 has a PCV valve with two nipples, a large one and a >smaller one. I know the large one goes to the carb baseplate. Does anyone >know where the small one should connnect? On my 1980 a hose connects there and runs down to purge the charcoal vapor canister. There is a valve between the port and the canister so that it only purges when off idle. I won't guarantee that this is what your truck is doing. Try to read the underhood emissions sticker. Jim Cannon Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech '29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!" '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8 ------------------------------ From: kb9odg.mark juno.comDate: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 20:56:49 -0600 Subject: egr vlave for 300 EFI Why are the EGR valves so dawgon expensive? I'm thinking I need a new one because of my bad idle and pinging. Is there a recomended place to get these from? Please reply directly because I'm a digest slacker. - Mark Reimers KB9ODG '66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35" tires ... '87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, boring ... ________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 20:59:56 -0600 From: Jim Cannon Subject: Re: knocking in '94 300 I-6 At 12:07 09/02/00 -0800, you wrote: >i have a F150 with the 300 I-6 with about 88k on it. about 4 weeks ago i >noticed it was starting to knock under moderate to hard acceleration. i >went ahead and put in new plugs, plug wires, dist. cap, and rotor, because >these things were a little overdue anyways. the knocking seemed to go >away for a day or so, and then returned. so here are a few questions: >2)i was planning on replacing the O2 sensor. i am getting a little bit of >black soot in the exhaust pipe. will this help the knocking? now as far >as getting the O2 sensor: the ford dealer wants $94 for the O2 sensor. >talking to some parts shops around here i have found that i can get what >is apparently the correct bosch sensor for $48. the sensor in there now >is a bosch (i.e. i'm not worried about the quality), but i want to make >sure i get the correctly calibrated sensor. has anyone gotten the bosch >sensor and does it seem to work properly. (incidently the ford part # on >the sensor is F4UF-9F472-CA which matches with a bosch 13187, just in >case anyone has an easy way to check such things). Soot is too much fuel. Oxygen sensor is a likely cause (reasonable, anyway). Won't hurt to replace it. Go with the Bosch (IMHO). This will not fix the knock, however. In fact, it could make it worse because lean mixtures are more prone to knock. >3)fuel filter? will this make a difference in the knocking? as far as i >know it is the original filter. (i got the truck with 40k on it). i am >just wondering if it is getting leaned out by a clogged filter. air >filter looks ok (k&n filter which was cleaned about 10k miles ago and i >don't drive in super dusty conditions). Possible, but usually you notice the lack of power at higher speed if this is your problem, not knock. If the filter has 48 k miles on it, replace it on general principles (but I'd be surprised if it affects the knocking). What do you know about the EGR valve? If it has a leaky valve seat you can get knocking. How does it idle? Leaky EGR valves act like vacuum leaks, too, and mess up your idle. '94 is really too new for me to help much with. Sorry. Jim Cannon Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech '29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!" '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 21:13:23 -0600 From: Jim Cannon Subject: Re: egr vlave for 300 EFI They are expensive because they are pecision machined to meter out the exact amount of exhaust to allow back into the intake stream, and the seats are hardened to withstand the extremely corrosive conditions and last for 50+ k miles. I can not recommend a cheap source. At 20:56 09/02/00 -0600, you wrote: >Why are the EGR valves so dawgon expensive? I'm thinking I need a new >one because of my bad idle and pinging. Is there a recomended place to >get these from? Please reply directly because I'm a digest slacker. > Jim Cannon Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech '29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!" '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 19:59:06 -0800 From: chuck sanborn Subject: Re: PCV Valve question At 08:47 PM 2/9/00 -0600, you wrote: >Try to read the >underhood emissions sticker.\ I can read it all right...just can't understand it!! :-| Chuck Sanborn FCA# 07175 Torrance, CA 1964 Falcon Sprint, 289 w/351W heads, etc 86 F150 300 cu in six banger (Hers) ------------------------------ From: "David Anderson (EUS)" Subject: Re: Broken doorlocks and shoddy work Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 12:00:18 -0600 Danny, My '90 caught fire due to the bad ignition switch. Not pretty. Consider doing it yourself and getting right. Located down on the column, less that $15, and a couple hours work, should not interfere with your alarm. David Anderson >>>>>Hell, I'm afraid to take my '90 F-150 in for a recalled ignition switch because I'm *sure* they're going to screw something up. Have an alarm also that I'm betting they'll mess up installing the switch.<<<<<< ------------------------------ End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #2 ********************************* ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List Send posts to 80-96-list ford-trucks.comIf you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar ford-trucks.comwith the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the message. Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com ---------------------------------------------------------- .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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