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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Thu, 10 Feb 2000 12:58:50 -0500 (EST)
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 12:58:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #2
Precedence: bulk

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------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Wed, 09 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 002

In This Issue:
Re: - Bad Alternator
Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come..
Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come..
Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come..
Re: camber questions
Re: New Guy
Re: E4OD to a C6
Re: Gary's Message
Re: Welcome, puny 302's :-)
Re: E4OD to a C6
Re: E4OD to a C6
Re: Welcome, puny 302's :-)
Re: E4OD to a C6
Re: Brake Pads & Wheel Bearings
Re: E4OD to a C6
Re: E4OD to a C6
Brake Pads & Wheel Bearings
Re: '90 F-150 Heater Core
Re: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #1
Re: PCV Valve question
Re: PCV Valve question
knocking in '94 300 I-6
Re: Help! Dead truck
Am I getting through?
Re: Am I getting through?
Loose, or is it Lose?
Wheel bearings
Re: Am I getting through?
Re: Wheel bearings
Shaved head and p/v clearance
Re: Bad Alternator
old and new ...
Re: camber questions
Re: Wheel bearings
Re: E4OD to a C6
Re: 90 Heater Core replacement
Re: Brake job on 89
Re: PCV Valve question
egr vlave for 300 EFI
Re: knocking in '94 300 I-6
Re: egr vlave for 300 EFI
Re: PCV Valve question
Re: Broken doorlocks and shoddy work

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: - Bad Alternator
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:01:46 -0500

The alternator does not do anything to cause a fast idle, these are two
separate issues. It sounds like you have some component in your truck which
is at least intermittantly shorting and damaging the diodes or regulator in
the alternator. A poor chassis to body ground or battery ground will cause
elevated amperage across the regulator due to voltage drop to the
accessories along with any number of other possibilities.

86 happens to be a year Ford did not do it's homework on the idle speed
servo. I don't know what the fix it but this is the culprit. My cougar did
this intermittantly for 110k miles but after the servo wore itself out it
just quit doing anything and it idled normally all the time, even when
cold......which was a bit of a bummer but better than trying to go down an
icy street with engine racing......:-( Stupid car stayed sideways most of
the winter due to this......

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>I have an '86 F-250 with a 460 in it. My RPM stayed high all
>the time -
>about 1800 - regardless of how long the truck was operating.

>died, I decided to replace the alternator. That fixed the
>problem for about
>two months, and I was a happy camper. Then the RPM started
>doing the same
>thing.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 12:06:48 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come..

Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote:
>
> I've entertained the idea of after market stuff but OEM stuff is for the
> birds or city slickers and desk jockies not people who do their own work on
> vehicles.

All I've needed for just about anything with EEC-IV was a good
multimeter with frequency meas. and a breakout box. Everything else, I
needed for older rigs anyway (cept HP fuel guage).

OX



It's too difficult to diagnose without investing in more
> equipment but since this is the way of the future at least this would be a
> "good" investment if you do your own work :-)
>
> Now that I am on the 80-96 list I will probably be investing in some new
> equipment.....
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> --
>
> >electronic stuff, you can buy (or will be able to shortly) equipment to
> >tweak it on the fly and at a level not approachable in non-computer
> >controlled stuff.
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
> message.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 12:07:41 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come..

Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote:

> Now that I am on the 80-96 list I will probably be investing in some new
> equipment.....
>

Not only that, list traffic will double, LOL!!!!! Couldn't resist good
buddy!!!!!!

OX

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come..
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:26:27 -0500

Noticed that already but got to do it. If it gets too hot I'll drop the
rust list :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Not only that, list traffic will double, LOL!!!!! Couldn't resist good
>buddy!!!!!!
>
> OX

------------------------------

From: "Phil & Debi" stargate.net>
Subject: Re: camber questions
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:31:17 -0500

> You must have a lift kit in it. When it was installed
> it must not have been complete and now there's
> isn't enough adjustment left to do a proper alignment.
> << I took my 91 F150 4x4 in for a front end alignment and they couldnt do
it,
> they said I needed a camber kit. >>

The truck is stock height, no lift kit.

Phil Beattie
66 F100
70 F100
79 F250 4x4
91 F150 4x4
www.geocities.com/imstobu



------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:45:45 -0600
Subject: Re: New Guy

Date sent: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 20:26:47 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
> Hello All,
>
> I am a recent new owner of a 1985 F-150 2WD, and member of the list. I
> picked it up for a mere $300, I could not resist. I am looking for some
> specs on my truck. Here are the code that are listed on the door frame:
>
> Engine: I-300
> Transmission Code: W
> Axle Code: 18
> Spring Code: A (maybe AV hard to tell)
>
> Specifically I am interested in things like horsepower and torque
> ratings,
> transmission type/gear ratios and axle ratio. Also, does anyone know if
> this
> configuration is setup for towing, everyday driving, or something else?
> Any
> information would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Rich Koser

The axle code is probably the most common Ford used in the
'80/90's trucks. Its the 3.08 no posi-trac, traction-loc, whatever term
you like.

Trans code is the common C5(no OD). So thats going to be a 1:1
in 3rd.

Gross towing weight w/my '90 F-150 300-6 E4OD lists as
~6500lbs. gross. That should be in your ballpark also.
Danny
fitz011ev1.net

------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:50:06 EST
Subject: Re: E4OD to a C6

In a message dated 2/9/00 8:55:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, luxjothecore.com
writes:

<< , I'd try to locate the computer that used the C-6
just in case. Then if it runs crappy, you know where to get the right
computer. >>
On the C-6 there was no computer control. it had an actual speedo cable to
connect with the speedometer. On the EECIV controlled trucks with the E4OD,
the transmission has a speed sensor in it to help the computer control shift
points and such. We have gone over this on another list several times. If you
want to change the trans., get a computer from a stick shift truck and check
if the speed sensor will adapt into the C6
Later
Wayne Foy
'94Flareside SC

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Gary's Message
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:51:45 -0500

This is a fix a tranny repair guy told me about. He didn't give me the
details of course but I am aware of these things now. Bauman Engineering
has parts you can replace to fix many of these problems. Just haven't got
to it yet but it's getting worse to I will be putting it higher on the list
soon :-)

It all has to do with adjusting the line pressure to the converter so that
it snaps home quicker. MIne has been chattering so long now this may not be
enough for my case so I am prepared to rebuild the converter as well.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Hey Gary, After reading your message I couldn't help but be a little
>scared. I have a 96 F150 with the 4R70W "non-converter
>locking" trans. I
>have 80K on the trans. I would be interested in finding out more about
>what you said about "drilling holes" so the converter will lock up

------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:51:54 EST
Subject: Re: Welcome, puny 302's :-)

In a message dated 2/9/00 10:54:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3visteon.com writes:

<< Yeah, I deliberately baited the mustang crowd :-) They have to work to get
430 HP :-) >>
Ummm...don't forget Gary, my 302 is in a TRUCK!!!
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC (430hp 5.0 powered)

------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:53:13 EST
Subject: Re: E4OD to a C6

In a message dated 2/9/00 11:00:24 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3visteon.com writes:

<< .has anyone ever tried to use a plain,
non-locking converter with either the E4OD or the 4R70W? Do the input
shafts etc. match up with older converters? >>
Art Carr makes a non lockup convertor for these transmissions, but it is not
recommended for daily driven use because of the intense heat build up. They
sell these as "race" convertors.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: E4OD to a C6
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:09:55 -0500

Yeah, it's pretty amazing how much heat they generate and the converter is
actually taken out of the loop since it is no longer pumping. The OD gear
set must really generate a lot of heat, eh? Millions of C-6's ran with no
cooler and pulled trailers all their lives with no problems so what's the
difference?

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>but it is not
>recommended for daily driven use because of the intense heat
>build up.

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Welcome, puny 302's :-)
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:10:50 -0500

See, that proves it......I wasn't baiting you :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Ummm...don't forget Gary, my 302 is in a TRUCK!!!

------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:16:14 EST
Subject: Re: E4OD to a C6

In a message dated 2/9/00 1:11:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3visteon.com writes:

<< Millions of C-6's ran with no
cooler and pulled trailers all their lives with no problems so what's the
difference? >>
The lockup.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Pads & Wheel Bearings
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:18:44 -0500

2wd is a piece a cake but the wedges in the calipers, if it has the wedge
type, have rubber inserts and have to be driven out with a punch. Just take
care not to deform them when punching them out and you will be fine.

When installing the bearings, torque the nut to seat the bearings (about 50#
is enough) then back it out till you get a little play and take it back in
till all play just comes out with the next slot and put the cotter key in.
Tapered bearings must have zero or some free play to operate correctly but
disk brakes need tight bearings to prevent wobble in the rotor so attempt to
get zero free play but don't preload them like some books "seem" to be
telling you. There is considerable leeway in this so don't let it scare
you. One notch off either way probably won't make a bit of difference
except that the brakes will be a little more spongy if you get them too
loose.

Due to the residual we have been discussing one wheel may turn harder than
the other due to many factors so I would not be concerned about that in and
of itself but if there are other signs then it may be a clue.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>rotating the driver
>side wheel was "very" difficult, especially in comparison to
>the passenger
>side.
>
>I have next week off, so I figure I'm going to try and change
>out both front
>wheel bearings.

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: E4OD to a C6
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:20:28 -0500

Seems like with the converter not moving internally lockup would tend to
keep things cooler?

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>The lockup.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 13:27:24 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: E4OD to a C6

FLR150aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 2/9/00 8:55:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, luxjothecore.com
> writes:
>
> << , I'd try to locate the computer that used the C-6
> just in case. Then if it runs crappy, you know where to get the right
> computer. >>
> On the C-6 there was no computer control.

Yes, I meant the engine computer that would go with a C-6, or no
computer control of tranny.

On the EECIV controlled trucks with the E4OD,
> the transmission has a speed sensor in it to help the computer control shift
> points and such.

I thought that was what the rear diff sensor was for. There are 2 speed
sensors??? I know a guy with a 93 bronco and when he disconnected his
diff sensor, the trans wouldn't shift for squat.



OX

------------------------------

From: "Stephen W.Hansen" minot.com>
Subject: Brake Pads & Wheel Bearings
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:29:35 -0600

When I did my front brakes on mine it ended up being a bit more work than
expected. Now I always turn the rotors, many times the warpage can't be seen
with the eye. I doubt the bearings are bad, more than likely the caliper is
sticking a bit. In my case it was easier and cheaper to replace the calipers
than rebuild them. Once you get it all apart you can figure out what is
wrong.
Stephen Hansen
92 F250
50 F-1



------------------------------

From: "Stephen W.Hansen" minot.com>
Subject: Re: '90 F-150 Heater Core
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:34:35 -0600

The early 90's heater core on the f-series line is about the easiest one to
change I have ever seen. They did it on shadetree mechanic, and I thought it
wasn't a fair representation of a heater core change. I wonder how many
people started tearing the dash apart to replace the core thinking "it's
real easy"

Stephen Hansen
92 F250
50 F-1


------------------------------

From: "Borck, Bryan" icn.siemens.com>
Subject: Re: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #1
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 10:41:46 -0800

Mike,

Is this 2WD or 4WD? 4WD requires a little more work, 2WD - I can't think of
any advice
other than make sure you get the correct bearings the first time ##!

Bryan Borck
89 F250 4X4 7.3 Dsl
------------------------------

From: "Michael R. Dunbar" vtc.vsc.edu>
Subject: Brake Pads & Wheel Bearings
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:13:16 -0500

Looking at the Haynes manual I've got didn't help to explain things too
much, so I'm asking rather than avoid serious issues later. Last week I put
on a new set of tires on the front, for financial reasons, I had done the
rear in the fall and held out for the front. Anyway, the place I bought the
tires at saved me a couple of bucks by having me do all the work, minus
mounting and balancing. So, while I had the front end in the air and the
tires off I poked around and checked out the brakes and rotors. The rotors
appeared in good shape and didn't look warped. However, rotating the driver
side wheel was "very" difficult, especially in comparison to the passenger
side. I had noticed towards the end of the fall, just before I started
driving with the windows rolled up all of the time, there was a high pitch
noise coming from the left front. I figured it was either my brakes starting
to go or my wheel bearings. I narrowed it down to bearings because the noise
would not disappear or change in pitch when hitting the brakes.... until I
slowed to a certain point, then it would cease.

I have next week off, so I figure I'm going to try and change out both front
wheel bearings. Since I have to dismantle everything, I figured it would be
just as good a time to replace the brake pads as well. I'm looking for any
advice, anything I should look for, or anything I should or should "not" do
when doing this. As I said before, the Haynes manual I've got didn't help
too much, I'm hoping it's fairly straightforward. Any help would be
appreciated. Thanks!

Mike Dunbar
89 F-150 XLT Lariat
White River Jct., Vermont

"Just remember, the wheel's spinning but the hamster's dead"

Pet Peeve of a Goldfish:
"Just because I have a three-second memory, they don't think I'll mind
eating the same fish flakes ... Oh boy! Fish flakes!"



------------------------------

From: Eric Sneed REIL.COM>
Subject: Re: PCV Valve question
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:02:32 -0800

Is there an actual hole in both in both nipples?, I ask because mine(89 300
L6) has these two nipples but one is not used(no hole).

Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: MRStace84aol.com [SMTP:MRStace84aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 5:20 AM
To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] PCV Valve question

Hello List,

My 84 F150 300 I-6 has a PCV valve with two nipples, a large one and
a
smaller one. I know the large one goes to the carb baseplate. Does
anyone
know where the small one should connnect?

Thanks,
Stacy Fisher

84 F150 4x4
98 Ranger XLT 4x4
==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
message.

------------------------------

From: MRStace84aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 14:53:01 EST
Subject: Re: PCV Valve question

In a message dated 2/9/00 2:11:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, ESneedreil.com
writes:

<< Is there an actual hole in both in both nipples?, I ask because mine(89 300
L6) has these two nipples but one is not used(no hole).

Eric
>>


Yes, both nipples have holes.

Stacy

84 F150 4x4
98 Ranger XLT 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 12:07:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Christopher Funk darkwing.uoregon.edu>
Subject: knocking in '94 300 I-6

i have a F150 with the 300 I-6 with about 88k on it. about 4 weeks ago i
noticed it was starting to knock under moderate to hard acceleration. i
went ahead and put in new plugs, plug wires, dist. cap, and rotor, because
these things were a little overdue anyways. the knocking seemed to go
away for a day or so, and then returned. so here are a few questions:

1)my haynes manual says that the ignition timing is not adjustable on
some of these engines. looking at the distributor, this seems right (at
least it isn't adjustable by rotating the cap the way i used to do on my
older cars and trucks). is it true that i can't ajust the timing or am i
being dense on this one?

2)i was planning on replacing the O2 sensor. i am getting a little bit of
black soot in the exhaust pipe. will this help the knocking? now as far
as getting the O2 sensor: the ford dealer wants $94 for the O2 sensor.
talking to some parts shops around here i have found that i can get what
is apparently the correct bosch sensor for $48. the sensor in there now
is a bosch (i.e. i'm not worried about the quality), but i want to make
sure i get the correctly calibrated sensor. has anyone gotten the bosch
sensor and does it seem to work properly. (incidently the ford part # on
the sensor is F4UF-9F472-CA which matches with a bosch 13187, just in
case anyone has an easy way to check such things).

3)fuel filter? will this make a difference in the knocking? as far as i
know it is the original filter. (i got the truck with 40k on it). i am
just wondering if it is getting leaned out by a clogged filter. air
filter looks ok (k&n filter which was cleaned about 10k miles ago and i
don't drive in super dusty conditions).

thanks in advance for any replys
andrew

----------------------------------------------------------

Andrew Funk
Department of Physics
University of Oregon
Eugene, OR 97403

(541) 346-4726 lab

afunkdarkwing.uoregon.edu
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://darkwing.uoregon.edu/~afunk


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:51:59 -0800 (PST)
From: "Casey R. Vandor" yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Help! Dead truck

That might be it, I just don't get why it ran excellent for a week and then
starting having this problem. I wimped out last night and pushed it to the
chevron station since it is getting kinda chilly with no garage to work under.
I will give them a call though and relay what you said. Stupid question here,
but I am not following the valve core thing. I don't have my shop manual with
me, but is this somehting that is fairly accessible? If it matters, I have the
7.3, but I would imagine they are reasonably similar in design.

Thanks,
Casey Vandor

>>>>>>
Tom writes; I ran into the same problem with my new 87 6.9 several weeks ago
and after going thru hell with it dying on me, I learned that it is sucking air
in to the system. I dropped the front tank and it was clean, check the transfer
valve, it was ok. I have noticed the fuel line next to the frame rail where the
plastic line is
shrinked to the steel line is wet. I suspect that air is being sucked in at ths
point. I carried a valve core removal tool and would remove the core when it
quit me on the road. Then I would crank the engine by jumping the solenoid on
the right fender well untill the fuel started coming thru, install the valve
core and presto it would
start right up. I have been told that the water seperator might be the cause of
a air leak. I'm going to get rid of the diesel because of rising cost of fuel.
I'm going to propane .90 gallon with the road tax included. You might try
putting a gallon on regular gas in your fuel to help with the gelling problem.
I hope this helps, Tom
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: "Robert Werner" postmaster.co.uk>
Subject: Am I getting through?
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 21:26:27 +0000

My e-mail has been screwed up lately, so I was just wondering if anyone is getting my mails. Thanks

------------------------------

From: "Moore, Jimmy" ZymeTx.com>
Subject: Re: Am I getting through?
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 15:39:56 -0600

I hear ya loud and clear!

Jim Moore
1981 Ford F-150 300 Six
1964 Ford F-100 292
Oklahoma City, OK


-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Werner [mailto:robertwernerpostmaster.co.uk]
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 3:26 PM
To: 80-96 list
Subject: [80-96-list] Am I getting through?


My e-mail has been screwed up lately, so I was just wondering if anyone is
getting my mails. Thanks
==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
message.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 16:36:58 -0500
From: Paul cfw.com>
Subject: Loose, or is it Lose?

I am getting confused by some posts as to what they are meaning.
"Loose" means to unloosen, like a nut on a bolt, or not tight, as in the
part rattled because it is loose.

"Lose" means to not have any more, as in losing your wallet.

Now to get back to removing that part way in there....wait; I'd better
get my socket extinction!

The Professor

------------------------------

From: sliknessmindspring.com
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 16:43:02 -0500
Subject: Wheel bearings

I don't know how different the '89s are from my '82, but my Chilton's gives an excellent step by step for removing the calipers, rotors, and bearings. I assume you will be replacing both inner and outer bearings along with the grease seal. Mine is a 2WD F150 and has the single piston caliper. If you're interested and if you think it will be useful, I will send you the step by step instructions via e-mail from my manual.

Slik

"Looking at the Haynes manual I've got didn't help to explain things too much...
.. I'm going to try and change out both front wheel bearings. Since I have to dismantle everything, I figured it would be just as good a time to replace the brake pads as well. I'm looking for any advice..."

------------------------------

From: sliknessmindspring.com
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 16:44:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Am I getting through?


My e-mail has been screwed up lately, so I was just wondering if anyone is getting my mails...

Yes.....

Slik

------------------------------

From: "Michael R. Dunbar" vtc.vsc.edu>
Subject: Re: Wheel bearings
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 16:58:45 -0500

That would be great, especially since all the local auto stores don't carry
Chilton's.

Mike Dunbar
89 F-150 XLT Lariat
White River Jct., Vermont

"Just remember, the wheel's spinning but the hamster's dead"

Pet Peeve of a Goldfish:
"Just because I have a three-second memory, they don't think I'll mind
eating the same fish flakes ... Oh boy! Fish flakes!"



> -----Original Message-----
> From: sliknessmindspring.com [mailto:sliknessmindspring.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 4:43 PM
> To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] Wheel bearings
>
>
> I don't know how different the '89s are from my '82, but my
> Chilton's gives an excellent step by step for removing the
> calipers, rotors, and bearings. I assume you will be replacing
> both inner and outer bearings along with the grease seal. Mine
> is a 2WD F150 and has the single piston caliper. If you're
> interested and if you think it will be useful, I will send you
> the step by step instructions via e-mail from my manual.
>
> Slik
>
> "Looking at the Haynes manual I've got didn't help to explain
> things too much...
> .. I'm going to try and change out both front wheel bearings.
> Since I have to dismantle everything, I figured it would be just
> as good a time to replace the brake pads as well. I'm looking for
> any advice..."
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
> message.
>


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 15:11:00 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Shaved head and p/v clearance

Along with a potential smog certification problem,
I have to run a couple of tests for blown head gasket
on my newly acquire '86 I-6.
If I have to replace that gasket, I will have a valve
job done also as the truck has 130K on the clock.
Would it do any good at all to shave the head by .020
to .030 and if I did that would I have piston to valve
clearance problems? I know I ran it really close on
my 289 with 351W heads and don't really want to do
that again.
Thanks
Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
1964 Falcon Sprint
1986 F150 six banger (Hers)


------------------------------

From: "Serian" flashmail.com>
Subject: Re: Bad Alternator
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 18:22:42 -0500

If your truck is of the age where it still uses the
external fender mounted regulator, you might want
to replace it if it is old. Also, check for good connections
between components, and good ground connections
to where they are supposed to be.



------------------------------

From: "Serian" flashmail.com>
Subject: old and new ...
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 18:26:51 -0500

Gary says:
> I'm already in love with my 460/C-6/NP205 and even a
> whole room full of naked......could not draw me away

naked fuel injectors ? :-P



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 19:27:53 -0500
From: S Spaulding worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: camber questions

It isn't that unusual to need a camber kit. there is little adjustment
in the individual bushings. You have to get bushings in a different
range, or get adjustable ones. My '91 F150 4x4 needed different
bushings when it was delivered new.

Steve

Phil & Debi wrote:
>
> > You must have a lift kit in it. When it was installed
> > it must not have been complete and now there's
> > isn't enough adjustment left to do a proper alignment.
> > << I took my 91 F150 4x4 in for a front end alignment and they couldnt do
> it,
> > they said I needed a camber kit. >>
>
> The truck is stock height, no lift kit.
>
> Phil Beattie
> 66 F100
> 70 F100
> 79 F250 4x4
> 91 F150 4x4
> www.geocities.com/imstobu
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
> message.

------------------------------

From: sliknessmindspring.com
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 19:58:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Wheel bearings


>I will send you the step by step instructions via e-mail from my manual....:

Replace pads...

.....
3. Dip out a part of the fluid from the larger portion of the master cylinder.
4. Jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on jackstands.
5. Remove the front wheel.
6. Using an 8" (203mm) C-clamp, bottom the caliper piston by positioning the fixed end of the clamp against the inner side of the cliper and tightening the clamp against the outer pad.
7. Remove the clamp. Remoe the key retaining screw.
8. Using a brass drift and light hammer, drive out the caliper support key, and caliper support spring.
9. It is not necessary o disconect the brake hose.
10. Remove the caliper from its suppor assembly by pushing downward toward the spindle and rotating the upper end upward and out of the spindle assembly. Support the caliper with a length of wire so that no stress is placed upon the brake hose.
11. Clean and inspect the caliper assembley.

NOTES from Slik:

Step 6, I used a 6" C-clamp and it worked fine
Step 7, the key retaining screw is located at the bottom rear of the caliper (wish I could scan some pics for ya)
Step 8, I just used my cold steed chisel to tap the support key and spring out
Step 10, As I pulled the top of the caliper upward, I tapped the bottom of the caliper with a hammer, came right out
Remember to put the anti-rattle clip back on the inner pad (between piston and back of pad) when re-assembling

Rotor/bearing removal

...tap the dut cap off the hub and rotor assembly
...remove the dust cap to expose the hub bearing retainer and nut
...remove the cotter pin from the retainer
...remove the retainer to expose the nut
...remove the retainer nut
...remove the outer bearing retaining washer
...remove the outer bearing
...lift the hub and rotor assembly off the spindle
...carefully pry the grease seal from the hub and rotor assembly (rear)
...remove inner bearing
...thoroughly clean the races and hub
...clean and repack the bearings
...install the inner bearing
...install a new grease seal. Use a seal driver or socket to seat the seal flush with the hub end. DO NOT drive the seal in below flush!
...clean the spindle and position the rotor
...hold the rotor straight and install the outer bearing
...clean and install the washer
...install the nut and torque it to 17-25 ft. lbs. while turning the rotor. This seats the bearings. Back off the nut to the loose position, and tighten it to 10-15 inch lbs.
...install a new cotter pin. If the holes and castellations don't line up, ADVANCE the nut until they do
...install the dust cap

Hope that helps,

Slik

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 19:08:37 -0600
From: David Cole earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: E4OD to a C6

I don't normally post for sale items to the lists I'm on, but with the talk
about the C-6:

If anyone is interested I have a small block C-6/stock converter for sale
cheap. Trans has sat for a while and prob needs new seals etc., but no
broken hard parts.

Located in ne Alabama.

Later,

David Cole


------------------------------

From: "Dave Harmier" gte.net>
Subject: Re: 90 Heater Core replacement
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 19:22:15 -0600

On our gone 88, or Dads 91 it is cake easy, pull the glove box and take out
some screws.

On my 92, After doing it twice (damn parts store replacement!) I found you
need some swivels and extensions and to hold your tongue just right.

On my old 79, it was a royal pain!

So give me an 87-91 on which to change the core any day!

Dave H.
Houston


------------------------------

From: "Dave Harmier" gte.net>
Subject: Re: Brake job on 89
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 19:35:40 -0600

Dude, My one contribution (well two) to this would be.....
Lube the sliders for the calipers, it'll be apparent when apart where I
mean. (I used high temp antiseize)

And speaking of calipers, make sure both are free, I saw mine retract
slightly (after taking proper precautions) with an assistant on the pedal,
so I knew they were ok.

Your mileage may CERTAINLY vary!

Dave H.
Houston, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 20:47:35 -0600
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: PCV Valve question

At 08:20 09/02/00 EST, you wrote:
>Hello List,
>
>My 84 F150 300 I-6 has a PCV valve with two nipples, a large one and a
>smaller one. I know the large one goes to the carb baseplate. Does anyone
>know where the small one should connnect?

On my 1980 a hose connects there and runs down to purge the charcoal vapor
canister. There is a valve between the port and the canister so that it
only purges when off idle.

I won't guarantee that this is what your truck is doing. Try to read the
underhood emissions sticker.

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8

------------------------------

From: kb9odg.markjuno.com
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 20:56:49 -0600
Subject: egr vlave for 300 EFI

Why are the EGR valves so dawgon expensive? I'm thinking I need a new
one because of my bad idle and pinging. Is there a recomended place to
get these from? Please reply directly because I'm a digest slacker.

- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
'66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
tires ...
'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, boring ...
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 20:59:56 -0600
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: knocking in '94 300 I-6

At 12:07 09/02/00 -0800, you wrote:
>i have a F150 with the 300 I-6 with about 88k on it. about 4 weeks ago i
>noticed it was starting to knock under moderate to hard acceleration. i
>went ahead and put in new plugs, plug wires, dist. cap, and rotor, because
>these things were a little overdue anyways. the knocking seemed to go
>away for a day or so, and then returned. so here are a few questions:


>2)i was planning on replacing the O2 sensor. i am getting a little bit of
>black soot in the exhaust pipe. will this help the knocking? now as far
>as getting the O2 sensor: the ford dealer wants $94 for the O2 sensor.
>talking to some parts shops around here i have found that i can get what
>is apparently the correct bosch sensor for $48. the sensor in there now
>is a bosch (i.e. i'm not worried about the quality), but i want to make
>sure i get the correctly calibrated sensor. has anyone gotten the bosch
>sensor and does it seem to work properly. (incidently the ford part # on
>the sensor is F4UF-9F472-CA which matches with a bosch 13187, just in
>case anyone has an easy way to check such things).

Soot is too much fuel. Oxygen sensor is a likely cause (reasonable,
anyway). Won't hurt to replace it. Go with the Bosch (IMHO).

This will not fix the knock, however. In fact, it could make it worse
because lean mixtures are more prone to knock.

>3)fuel filter? will this make a difference in the knocking? as far as i
>know it is the original filter. (i got the truck with 40k on it). i am
>just wondering if it is getting leaned out by a clogged filter. air
>filter looks ok (k&n filter which was cleaned about 10k miles ago and i
>don't drive in super dusty conditions).

Possible, but usually you notice the lack of power at higher speed if this
is your problem, not knock. If the filter has 48 k miles on it, replace it
on general principles (but I'd be surprised if it affects the knocking).

What do you know about the EGR valve? If it has a leaky valve seat you can
get knocking. How does it idle? Leaky EGR valves act like vacuum leaks,
too, and mess up your idle.

'94 is really too new for me to help much with. Sorry.

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 21:13:23 -0600
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: egr vlave for 300 EFI

They are expensive because they are pecision machined to meter out the
exact amount of exhaust to allow back into the intake stream, and the seats
are hardened to withstand the extremely corrosive conditions and last for
50+ k miles. I can not recommend a cheap source.

At 20:56 09/02/00 -0600, you wrote:
>Why are the EGR valves so dawgon expensive? I'm thinking I need a new
>one because of my bad idle and pinging. Is there a recomended place to
>get these from? Please reply directly because I'm a digest slacker.
>

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 19:59:06 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: PCV Valve question

At 08:47 PM 2/9/00 -0600, you wrote:
>Try to read the
>underhood emissions sticker.\

I can read it all right...just can't understand it!! :-|




Chuck Sanborn FCA# 07175
Torrance, CA
1964 Falcon Sprint, 289 w/351W heads, etc
86 F150 300 cu in six banger (Hers)


------------------------------

From: "David Anderson (EUS)" am1.ericsson.se>
Subject: Re: Broken doorlocks and shoddy work
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 12:00:18 -0600

Danny,
My '90 caught fire due to the bad ignition switch. Not pretty. Consider
doing it yourself and getting right. Located down on the column, less that
$15, and a couple hours work, should not interfere with your alarm.
David Anderson


>>>>>Hell, I'm afraid to take my '90 F-150 in for a recalled ignition switch

because I'm *sure* they're going to screw something up. Have an
alarm also that I'm betting they'll mess up installing the switch.<<<<<<





------------------------------

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