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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 80-96-list); Sun, 16 Jul 2000 06:35:22 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 06:35:22 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #138
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80-96-list Digest Sat, 15 Jul 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 138

In This Issue:
Re: front brake job
DOT 5 brake fluid
DOT 5 brake fluid [2]
Re: brake fluid & stuff
Aerostar Electrical Problems
Re: Aerostar Electrical Problems
Re: Aerostar Electrical Problems
84 F150 Steering Problems
Re: 84 F150 Steering Problems
How do I get off the list Please
Re: air intake
Working on E vs F
Re: Aerostar Electrical Problems
Re: Help ASAP!!!
Re: Help ASAP!!!
Re: question
Re: Help ASAP!!!
Re: Help ASAP!!!
Re: question
door sag
Re: 84 F150 Steering Problems
Re: Help ASAP!!!
Hammering Power Steering

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 20:23:17 +1000
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: front brake job


Steve,

I have to admit that my 'research' as such is a bit light on the ground.
Mainly based on reading the back of the container. ;-)) and a few web
sites promoting their brand of the product. Not very scientific, I do
admit, and even if I was told what the chemical composition of the
product is, I doubt it would mean that much to me anyway, what counts is
the result.
However, based on user feed back, that is in day to day use, and as used
in sports sedan race vehicles, it presents an compelling argument as to
its success. Brembo callipers are too expensive to allow them to become
pitted because of water tainted brake fluid. I do realize that the ford
calliper construction has little in common with brembo, but the
principal is still the same. One of the problems with having a race
vehicle is the deterioration of the hydraulic components of the brake
system, while the car sits around doing nothing.
If the product works as advertised at the pointy end of the
market, why not try it at the other end. No doubt some people would
suggest 'It's only a truck, why waste the money' My logic on this is
simple.
If 2000lb car suffers a catastrophic brake loss, other motorists have
a 50/50 chance of survival. A brake failure on one of our trucks,
weighing in at 5000lb +, reduces the odds against the 2000lb car and
has the potential to very seriously hurt someone, - not to mention the
paper work it will create.

On a forum as big as this I'm sure that other members have tried the
'Dot 5 silicon type' fluids, if not in trucks but cars also, and would
be willing to express an opinion as to their experience's with this type
of product.

regards

Les


soffiler centraltools.com wrote:
>
> Les,
>
> I was recently doing a search on the Web for technical information on brake
> fluid (actually looking for chemical characteristics, for a project here at
> work... we all know it's an aggressive chemical, great paint remover). I
> stumbled across several sites that were extolling the virtues of DOT 5
> (silicone). I don't have any specific links for you, but a simple search
> with the search engine of your choice (personal favorites: Google,
> Metacrawler) will turn up all kinds of info. I recall seeing several
> persuasive arguements in favor of the DOT 5, but I won't even attempt to
> discuss the details from memory. Do the Web search and let us know what you
> find!
>
> Steve Offiler
> soffiler centraltools.com
> '97 F250HD XL 4x4, 351, E40D, 4.10's

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 06:53:25 -0500
From: Steve Deis avdec.com>
Subject: DOT 5 brake fluid

A couple of things...

Brake fluid needs to be changed just like oil/trans/rear end fluids, if
you want your brake system to live a long time. I do mine once a year,
need it or not.

DOT 5 ( silicone) is NOT compatible with the DOT 3 that came with your
truck, and it also is not compatible with the seal material in the
master and wheel cylinders.

DOT 4 is what you want to use, as it mixes with what's already in the
system, is friendly to the rubber parts, and has a higher boiling point
than DOT 3. Valvoline and Castrol both make DOT 4 fluid.

Changing simply involves removing the fluid in the master cylinder and
replacing it with new, and then bleeding each wheel until the fluid runs
clear. Start with the wheel farthest from the master, and work toward
the master. For a LHD truck, you'll start at the right-rear, and finish
at the left-front. Be sure to keep the fluid topped-off as you go.

You will be shocked at the "stuff" you flush out.

hth
steve leaving tx

> >
> > Steve,
> >
> > If you are going to suggest a change of the fluid, as you
> > rightly point
> > out, it's corrosive ability, but also the serious reduction of the
> > boiling point of the remaining fluid, would you not consider a change
> > over to the newer 'silicon' based fluids ?? To my way of
> > thinking, it's
> > even better value for our trucks, the bonus of a higher boiling point
> > fluid, as well as being almost(?) hygroscopic neutral.
> >
> > (I can see this 'economical' front pad change turning into a
> > full blown
> > brake job ;-)))
> >
> > regards
> > les

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 06:02:21 -0500
From: Steve Deis avdec.com>
Subject: DOT 5 brake fluid [2]

I need to clarify a couple of things in my last message...

1/ DOT 5 fluid is compatible with all rubber parts in the system.

2/ It is NOT compatible with DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluids, so most folks
recommend a complete system rebuild before changing to DOT 5.
This would include cleaning steel lines with solvent and blowing
dry with air, as well as new cylinders and rubber lines.

3/ Since it cannot absorb water, any that gets into the system
(and some will, sooner or later), will collect in low points in
the plumbing. Unless the DOT 5 is regularly flushed and changed
this will actually accelerate corrosion.

4/ DOT 5 is difficult to bleed as small bubbles can form in the system
during bleeding. These guys eventually collect together and turn
into large bubbles.

I'd still suggest DOT 4 as a upgrade to what Ford put in the truck.

Steve

------------------------------

From: "Stuart Falkner" ala.net>
Subject: Re: brake fluid & stuff
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 11:16:15 -0500


----- Original Message -----
From: "Stuart Falkner" ala.net>
To: <'80-96-list ford-trucks.com'>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 5:42 AM
Subject: brake fluid & stuff


> I am not about to tell any one they don't need to change their brake
fluid,
> but the situation may not be as bad as you think. DOT3 type fluid will
> absorb water if it gets to it but the master cylinder is supposed to have
a
> diaphragm in the lid to isolate the atmosphere from the fluid to prevent
the
> entry of moisture thru the vent.
> Silicone fluid sounds like a gift from Heaven, but it has a fault also.
It
> will absorb air. I have heard reports of vehicles using DOT5 having their
> brake pedal go mushy at high altitudes and then behaving normally again
> after descending.
> Some are berating the plastic clutch slave cylinders but I feel they are
> at least as durable as an aluminum slave cyl. like I once bought for my 87
> F150. I was having clutch releasing problems but the problem turned out to
> be a cracked firewall at the master cyl. area. I have seen what moisture
and
> brake fluid will do to aluminum, so I put the plastic one back on and it
is
> still there after 165000 mi. CARQUEST sells the metal ones if any one just
> has to have one.
> Stuart Falkner
> 87 F150 5L
> 53 F100
> 48 Indian
> 34 Harley (in boxes)
>


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 09:35:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: victor moran yahoo.com>
Subject: Aerostar Electrical Problems

Hello List,
I'm hoping someone on this list can help me with a problem that appeared
yesterday. All this stuff happened on the way home while I was driving 100
miles from work at about 75MPH.

About half of the way home, the voltmeter needle started bouncing slightly.
Then things got worse.

*When I turned on a blinker, the car sounded like it was going to turn off.
The radio also made pop'ing noises each time that the blinker would turn on.
*When the tranny switched to overdrive (a 3-speed auto) the car sounded like
it was going to turn off.

*When I put the defroster on the car came even closer to turning off.

*After I got off the highway it only got worse. when I tried to put a blinker
on at slow speed (<15 MPH) the car came very close to turning off. It also
bucked noticeably.

*(Each of these times the needle bounced further and further down into the red
zone.)

I drove to an AutoZone to get the battery tested. It turned out that they
couldn't test it because their machine was dead. When I turned it back on
after sitting for a few minutes, the voltmeter needle had stabilized and the
radio pop'ing stopped and the blinkers and gear changing all happened without
any more problems.

Thanks guys!
Victor

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Get Yahoo! Mail Free email you can access from anywhere!
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------------------------------

From: MRStace84aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 16:28:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Aerostar Electrical Problems

In a message dated 7/15/00 12:35:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
diadianyahoo.com writes:

<< ello List,
I'm hoping someone on this list can help me with a problem that appeared
yesterday. All this stuff happened on the way home while I was driving 100
miles from work at about 75MPH.

About half of the way home, the voltmeter needle started bouncing
slightly.
Then things got worse.

*When I turned on a blinker, the car sounded like it was going to turn
off.
The radio also made pop'ing noises each time that the blinker would turn on.
*When the tranny switched to overdrive (a 3-speed auto) the car sounded
like
it was going to turn off.
>>


I had a similar problem with a Plymouth Horizon once. Turned out to be a bad
voltage regulator. On that car the regulator was it own seperate unit
mounted on the firewall. I'm not sure how the Aerostars are set up.

Stacy Fisher
84 F150 4x4
98 Ranger XLT 4x4

------------------------------

From: IMATOOLMANaol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 16:41:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Aerostar Electrical Problems

How do I get off the list?

------------------------------

From: MRStace84aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 16:45:00 EDT
Subject: 84 F150 Steering Problems

Hello List,

My 84 F150 4x4 has a steering problem. When driving down the road every now
and then (usually when I hit a bump) it will jerk to the left. If I go into
a sharp left hand turn fast it will jerk noticeably hard to the left. At
first I found a worn lower ball joint on the right hand side. So I replaced
the upper and lower right hand ball joints and repacked the wheel bearings.
The left hand bearings and ball joints appear to be nice and tight. The tire
rod ends are few years old, but seem to be tight. The gearbox has some play
in it, but it doesn't seem to be anymore than an 87 2WD that we have. I'm
getting a little confused as to what my culprit may be. I was thinking maybe
just the alignment, but most vechicles that I have had the were out of
alignment always pulled continously to one side or the other, and this truck
isn't doing that, It will just jerk to the left everynow and then like the
front wheels have a mind of their own. If anyone has some ideas as to what
this may be, I sure would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Stacy Fisher
84 F150 4x4
98 Ranger XLT 4x4

------------------------------

From: "DonBigGrizzly" biggrizzly.com>
Subject: Re: 84 F150 Steering Problems
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 16:54:49 -0400

I'm not sure, but how many miles you got on your shocks?

Don

----- Original Message -----
From: aol.com>
To: <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 4:45 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] 84 F150 Steering Problems


> Hello List,
>
> My 84 F150 4x4 has a steering problem. When driving down the road every
now
> and then (usually when I hit a bump) it will jerk to the left. If I go
into
> a sharp left hand turn fast it will jerk noticeably hard to the left. At
> first I found a worn lower ball joint on the right hand side. So I
replaced
> the upper and lower right hand ball joints and repacked the wheel
bearings.
> The left hand bearings and ball joints appear to be nice and tight. The
tire
> rod ends are few years old, but seem to be tight. The gearbox has some
play
> in it, but it doesn't seem to be anymore than an 87 2WD that we have. I'm
> getting a little confused as to what my culprit may be. I was thinking
maybe
> just the alignment, but most vechicles that I have had the were out of
> alignment always pulled continously to one side or the other, and this
truck
> isn't doing that, It will just jerk to the left everynow and then like the
> front wheels have a mind of their own. If anyone has some ideas as to
what
> this may be, I sure would appreciate it.
>
> Thanks,
> Stacy Fisher
> 84 F150 4x4
> 98 Ranger XLT 4x4
> ==========================================================
> $15 Amazon.com Gift Certificate FREE when you join CarClub!
> Save $550 on auto expenses every year. 10% discount on gas
> with every fill-up. Car damaged -- We'll pay your deductible
> up to $500. Plus, save up to $250 on insurance even if you're
> already paying low rates. Try CarClub.com free for a month
> and get a $15 Free Gift Certificate from Amazon.com!
> AOL users click
here

> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>



------------------------------

From: IMATOOLMANaol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 16:58:13 EDT
Subject: How do I get off the list Please

delist me please

------------------------------

From: "Nelson Vasconcelos" mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: air intake
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 17:53:56 -0400

I've been reading the posts on air intakes and it gave me an idea. The air
intake on my truck is just like you described, Craig, but just at the intake
side (right at the grille) it turns to the right side 90. My question is if
I cut the bend straight at the beginning will it force more air in and
therefore make the motor breath better?

Nelson
89 F150 4x4, 300 I6, 5spd
3" body & 4" suspension lift, w/33's


------------------------------

From: "Mike Persell" home.com>
Subject: Working on E vs F
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 17:05:02 -0500

I know how easy it is to work on the F series. When it occasionally needs it
I find it a breeze to work on my 85 F-150.

I am looking for a van to haul people and maybe tow a small trailer like a
16 ft boat or 18-20 ft camper. Is the E series with a V-8 a real pain to
work on for normal stuff like belts, hoses, filters and regular services
such as oil changes?

Mike Persell


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 15:15:44 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Aerostar Electrical Problems

I hope you read the bottom of the page...

At 04:41 PM 7/15/00 -0400, you wrote:
>How do I get off the list?
>==========================================================
>$15 Amazon.com Gift Certificate FREE when you join CarClub!
>Save $550 on auto expenses every year. 10% discount on gas
>with every fill-up. Car damaged -- We'll pay your deductible
>up to $500. Plus, save up to $250 on insurance even if you're
>already paying low rates. Try CarClub.com free for a month
>and get a $15 Free Gift Certificate from Amazon.com!
>
AOL users click here
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe:
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: BanksRVAaol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 18:20:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Help ASAP!!!

Vehicle: Econoline 350 1982
Problem: New brakes on but left front squeales and will go away when brakes
are applied. Problem is intermittent. Both front wheels get hot after driving
around. No
smoke though.
Please reply soon!
Thanks,
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 17:01:26 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Help ASAP!!!

Sounds normal to me. Sometimes that anti-squeal stuff just doesn't work.
Both front wheels should get hot after driving. The pads are always in contact
with the rotor and heat generates out.
Chuck

At 06:20 PM 7/15/00 -0400, you wrote:
>Vehicle: Econoline 350 1982
>Problem: New brakes on but left front squeales and will go away when brakes
>are applied. Problem is intermittent. Both front wheels get hot after driving
>around. No
>smoke though.
>Please reply soon!
>Thanks,
>Joe


------------------------------

From: Lingus0169aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 20:14:20 EDT
Subject: Re: question

i have a problem...i have a dodge daytona 4cyl 5 speed manual. it shut off
while i was driving. all it does is crank and wont start. i thought it might
be a fuel problem...what happens when fuel injection totally goes dry? how
long does it take to get fuel back into the jets and get the darn thing
running again.
nick
85 f150 4x4 xl with
82 351w bored .30,cam,intake,headers,4bbl, 4speed manual
temporary 91 dodge daytona

------------------------------

From: BanksRVAaol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 21:12:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Help ASAP!!!

Thanks Slammer!
You just relieved stress the night before a 7 week road trip.
I can go to bed instead of staying up all night tearing the van apart.
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 19:13:06 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Help ASAP!!!

At 09:12 PM 7/15/00 -0400, you wrote:
>Thanks Slammer!
>You just relieved stress the night before a 7 week road trip.
>I can go to bed instead of staying up all night tearing the van apart.
>Joe
>==========================================================

No problem Joe....just one caveat.
Wheel bearings that are too tight can cause a hot wheel but the heat
is normally more intense at the bearing cap. You did pack them with
disc brake grease, didn't you? :-)
Chuck
Have a good trip!


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 19:27:03 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: question

At 08:14 PM 7/15/00 -0400, you wrote:
>i have a problem...i have a dodge daytona 4cyl 5 speed manual. it shut off
>while i was driving. all it does is crank and wont start.

First thing to do is check for spark at the plugs...Got Spark ? :-)


------------------------------

From: b-khansonjuno.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 21:33:45 -0500
Subject: door sag

>From: Bill Wagner hh.bc.ca>

>2. the doors don't want to close properly unless you really slam them,
>and sag noticibly when you open them - is there a replacable bushing in
>the hinge? I don't think I've bent the frame or anything, so I believe
>that the hinge is just worn from all the bouncing around.

>Any suggestions?

>Bill in Prince George.

Only one solution, replace the hinges (both upper and lower).

Bruce Hanson
Apple Valley, MN

------------------------------

From: MRStace84aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 23:35:02 EDT
Subject: Re: 84 F150 Steering Problems

In a message dated 7/15/00 4:56:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
donbiggrizzly.com writes:

<< 'm not sure, but how many miles you got on your shocks?

Don >>


The shocks are new, not sure exactly but less than 8,000 miles, and they are
good heavy duty Monroes.

Stacy Fisher
84 F150 4x4
98 Rangerl XLT 4x4

------------------------------

From: BanksRVAaol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 00:23:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Help ASAP!!!

In a message dated 7/15/00 10:13:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
slammerdeltanet.com writes:

<< You did pack them with
disc brake grease, didn't you? :-)
Chuck >>
I sure did Chuck,
Thanks,
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 04:32:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Kudulis excite.com>
Subject: Hammering Power Steering


Hello,
Can anyone venture a guess or better yet an opinion? Have a 94 F250 4x4
351. Whenever I load up the truck or pull my camper, a distinct rapping
noise develops from what I believe is the P.S. pump. It's a loud nasty
hammering noise. If you put turning pressure on the steering wheel, the
noise will diminish but not disappear. The frequency does not change with
engine speed. The noise completely disappears a few minutes after
unloading/decoupling. It happens only once in a while, but man it's
embarrasing. Suggestions?
Thanks for your help
Jim Kudulis
Racine, Wisconsin





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