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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 80-96-list); Fri, 14 Jul 2000 23:28:15 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 23:28:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #137
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List
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In This Issue:
Re: clutch replacement question
Re: outside air intake
Re: outside air intake
DISAPPEARING AND REAPPEARING GAS
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: front brake job
Re: front brake job
Thanks everybody for your help and advice on my clutch replacement
question. Steve Offiler even faxed me pages from a manual to help me
along. What a great thing this list it!
Anyway, one question leads to another (and another...). If I replace the
slave cylinder, I assume I have to bleed the whole thing. Any advice out
On a separate topic, I live in northern British Columbia, Canada, and do
many many miles of driving on gravel roads. This has led to two problems:
1. when on gravel roads, the passenger side of the dash board shakes
violently up and down like it's missing a few screws. Is there anyone
else with this problem? I've been avoiding tearing the whole thing apart
to look for the problem, as it's probably more time-consuming than I can
2. the doors don't want to close properly unless you really slam them,
and sag noticibly when you open them - is there a replacable bushing in
the hinge? I don't think I've bent the frame or anything, so I believe
that the hinge is just worn from all the bouncing around.
From: "Larry Volz" ilhawaii.net>
Subject: DISAPPEARING AND REAPPEARING GAS
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 15:59:28 -1000
Over the past two years I have been having the problem with the dual
Fuel tanks where when you run out of gas in the front, switch to the rear, run
Out of gas in the rear, switch back to the front and magically have half a tank
Of gas again. Over the past month the front tank has been emptying more
Quickly in the front than before and the rear now stays fuller longer.>>
If fuel migrates from one tank to the other (either way I believe) it's probably what Ford calls the fuel reservoir that is bad. It's really a hydraulic switch (valve) that functions when the selected fuel pump activates.
My attention was caught when the charcoal canister filled up with gasoline and truck would only idle.
Further trouble shooting, starting with one full tank and the other near empty before bedtime and finding that fuel in the almost empty tank in the morning clinched it. Story is....our fuel today is gummy, gummier, :-) replacement from Ford parts counter has all the clips with it.
We really shouldn't ever run our tanks dry !!!
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 22:07:18 -0700
From: Bobby Godwin surfsouth.com>
Subject: Try again
This is the fourth time I have tried to post something to the list
about a problem I'm having with my ford. Everything comes back with
"Unknown command" under every line. I have changed the email address
and if this does not come back, I will try posting the problem again.
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 22:02:37 -0700
From: Paul Harp mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Well, I'm not positive but I think the F150 uses the same 8.8 differential that the mustang uses. If I am correct and if I understand what you are trying to ask, the prices I previously mentioned should apply to your truck. The truck axle assembly however is NOT the same as the mustang assembly.
If your differential is an 8.8, then I wouldn't recommend attempting the gear swap yourself. As someone else mentioned, it might be possible to come out a bit cheaper if you can find a complete used assembly and do the install yourself. Personally, I'm kind of wary of used parts so (in my opinion) I'd just go with new gears unless you think your axle assembly is in bad shape.
> From: DJ250r aol.com
> Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 10:12:27 EDT
> Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
> I dont have 4x4 .the next truck i get will have 4x4 ok now is the axle on
> your mustangand the axle on a 95 150 going to be the same ?
After about four tries, I think I am finally getting through to the
list. As you surely know, I am new to the list and may not even be on
the right list. I hope that if I'm not on the right list you will tell
me which list I need to be on.
I have a 1986 Aerostar van that has 160.000+ miles on it. The van
is in good condition except for the engine, so I had a new engine
installed. The new engine runs very good, but I noticed (from my trip
computer) that the new engine was not getting the gas mileage that the
old engine was getting. I always reset my trip computer and my trip
checker (on the speedo) when I fill up the tank. It didn't take long
for me to realize that the distance on the trip computer was locking up
from time to time so that during that time I was getting 0 miles per
gallon on the computer. This causes every reading on the trip computer
to be inaccurate. Since the trip computer was working fine before I had
the rebuilt engine installed, I feel that there is a problem some where
in the hook-up with the trip computer. The car has a digital instrument
panel too. There seems to be no one in this town (Valdosta, Ga.) that
knows anything about a trip computer and where to begin trouble shooting
it. I hope there is someone on this list that can give me some
I have another problem with the van, but I will hold off on that one
until I have made a little headway with the trip computer.
Thanks, I hope someone can help.
Bobby Godwin, Valdosta, Ga.
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 22:05:24 -0600
Subject: Re: outside air intake
From: craig n eggerman juno.com>
Water intake not a problem. The intake is almost 2 feet off the ground
and is horizontal for about a foot then vertical for about a foot and a
half to match up with the air intake box. Most autos plumb the air intake
behind the grill someplace. The only dumb one I ever saw was on my
brothers 80 something camero that had it below the bumper. Needless to
say he ruined an engine in Midland Texas where they have no storm drains
on the streets.
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 19:35:41 +1000
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: front brake job
If you are going to suggest a change of the fluid, as you rightly point
out, it's corrosive ability, but also the serious reduction of the
boiling point of the remaining fluid, would you not consider a change
over to the newer 'silicon' based fluids ?? To my way of thinking, it's
even better value for our trucks, the bonus of a higher boiling point
fluid, as well as being almost(?) hygroscopic neutral.
(I can see this 'economical' front pad change turning into a full blown
brake job ;-)))
soffiler centraltools.com wrote:
> Another thing to seriously consider is changing your brake fluid. While
> this is not a particularly common maintenance task, brake fluid is extremely
> hygroscopic (it sucks up water from the air, which comes in from the vent in
> the master cylinder reservoir). Once water-laden, it becomes corrosive. In
> order to change the fluid, you will need to know the bleeding procedure.
> With the rear antilock brake unit there might be a special bleeding
> procedure and I don't know it off the top of my head.
I was recently doing a search on the Web for technical information on brake
fluid (actually looking for chemical characteristics, for a project here at
work... we all know it's an aggressive chemical, great paint remover). I
stumbled across several sites that were extolling the virtues of DOT 5
(silicone). I don't have any specific links for you, but a simple search
with the search engine of your choice (personal favorites: Google,
Metacrawler) will turn up all kinds of info. I recall seeing several
persuasive arguements in favor of the DOT 5, but I won't even attempt to
discuss the details from memory. Do the Web search and let us know what you
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of les williams
> Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 5:36 AM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] Re: front brake job
> If you are going to suggest a change of the fluid, as you
> rightly point
> out, it's corrosive ability, but also the serious reduction of the
> boiling point of the remaining fluid, would you not consider a change
> over to the newer 'silicon' based fluids ?? To my way of
> thinking, it's
> even better value for our trucks, the bonus of a higher boiling point
> fluid, as well as being almost(?) hygroscopic neutral.
> (I can see this 'economical' front pad change turning into a
> full blown
> brake job ;-)))
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