....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.


Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages
contained in these archives without consent from the respective
author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on
any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by
individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors.

Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 80-96-list); Thu, 13 Jul 2000 18:18:37 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 18:18:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #136
Precedence: list

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List

Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
message.
==========================================================

------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Wed, 12 Jul 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 136

In This Issue:
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: Clutch replacement question
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: Clutch replacement question
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: outside air intake
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: 300I6 needs more power
85 smog check
Re: 85 smog check
Re: 300I6 performance
Dying Battery
Re: 300I6 needs more power
Re: 300I6 performance
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: 300I6 needs more power
'95 300 I6 Just Needs Power!
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: '95 300 I6 Just Needs Power!
front brake job
Re: front brake job
Re: '95 300 I6 Just Needs Power!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: DTrowbridge webtv.net (David Trowbridge)
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:48:27 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power

i know when i h my factory 3.08s in my 85 300 I6 i could brake torque
the 235/75/15s with no problem. the truck had good jump off the line
but the motor would run out of breath on the highway. a friend of mine
and i swapped our rear differentials(he also has an 85 300 I6). i now
have 2.47s or 2.43s(don' t remember which). now i can't brake torque
the tires at all and i lost lots of jump off the line, but cruising down
the highway at 80mph is no longer a problem. i am thinking about a
header and complete exhaust to help the motor breath better on the
highway.

David
85 F-150 300 I6


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:28:56 -0400
From: S Spaulding worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch replacement question

Get it up in the air (on jack stands). Remove both driveshafts. From
inside, remove both boots and shifters. The xfer case shifter might
come off from below... I don't remember. support the engine. Support
the xfer case and transmission as a unit. I highly recommend renting,
buying, or borrowing a transmission jack, or you might end up wearing
it.

Unbolt the rear mount from the transmission, and from the frame. Unbolt
the transmission from the engine. Slide the whole thing straight back
as far as you can, until the input shaft clears the clutch. Now you can
unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel and drop it.

Everyone will tell you to replace the slave cylinder, and you probably
should, but I did not. I did not have to open the line. The new clutch
kit should come with an alignment tool to support the disc while you
bolt up the pressure plate.

Now you have to line up the input shaft with the hole, make sure the
angle is correct, and slide it in. This is where you will be fatally
injured if you were too cheap to rent a transmission jack.

Steve

Bill Wagner wrote:
>
> Hi, I have a 1994 F150 4x4 with a 300-six and a 5 speed overdrive,
> hydraulic clutch. There's a little less than 100,000 miles on it.
>
> Silly me, I lent it to my cousin, and it came back with no clutch.
>
> Now, I usually do my own work on vehicles (axle seals, brakes, and once a
> pair of head gaskets on my boss' truck), and I have fairly good tools and
> axle stands and stuff, but I'm a little worried about dropping the tranny
> and doing the job all by myself.
>
> I am assuming that I have the infamed Mazda 5-speed close-ratio. There's
> no granny gear. The transmission body looks like aluminum, with a cast
> body that has aluminum ribs running in circles outside it. The bell
> housing is not removable, but rather is part of the transmission case.
>
> My question is: what's involved in a clutch job? Do I have to remove the
> transfer case, then drop the whole tranny, or do I have to pull the
> drive-shafts (new U-joints?), then the transfer case, then the tranny?
> Will I have to remove (and rebleed?) the slave cylinder? Can it be done
> on a carport floor under axle stands with a floor-jack? Tell me, `O great
> experienced Ford Truck people!
>
> I also have a question about door hinge bushings, but I'll save it for
> another day...
>
> Bill Wagner in northern British Columbia.
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:38:38 -0400
From: "Koser, Richard W" lmco.com>
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power

Hi All,

I have been following your posts on this point and would like to ask for
your opinion. I have a stock '85 F150 with the 300 I-6, 3.08 rear gears and
a C5 three speed auto tranny. I just had the tranny rebuilt, so I would like
to hold on to it. Does it make any sense to bolt up a V8 to this tranny/rear
gear setup, or should I look into some performance mods on the I-6.

Thanks,
Rich

------------------------------

From: Eric Sneed REIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Clutch replacement question
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 15:49:15 -0700

I replaced the clutch in my 89 f150 4x4 300 4sp stick about six months ago.
S Spaulding's play by play is pretty darn close to what I did. I think that
replacing the Slave is a good idea, especially if yours is plastic like the
factory unit in my truck. Plastic parts on the undercarriage of a truck,
seems to me if they wanted to cut costs they could find something a little
less crucial to the durability of these trucks.

ES

-----Original Message-----
From: S Spaulding [SMTP:ss80xt worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 3:29 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Clutch replacement question

Get it up in the air (on jack stands). Remove both driveshafts.
From
inside, remove both boots and shifters. The xfer case shifter might
come off from below... I don't remember. support the engine.
Support
the xfer case and transmission as a unit. I highly recommend
renting,
buying, or borrowing a transmission jack, or you might end up
wearing
it.

Unbolt the rear mount from the transmission, and from the frame.
Unbolt
the transmission from the engine. Slide the whole thing straight
back
as far as you can, until the input shaft clears the clutch. Now you
can
unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel and drop it.

Everyone will tell you to replace the slave cylinder, and you
probably
should, but I did not. I did not have to open the line. The new
clutch
kit should come with an alignment tool to support the disc while you
bolt up the pressure plate.

Now you have to line up the input shaft with the hole, make sure the
angle is correct, and slide it in. This is where you will be
fatally
injured if you were too cheap to rent a transmission jack.

Steve

Bill Wagner wrote:
>
> Hi, I have a 1994 F150 4x4 with a 300-six and a 5 speed overdrive,
> hydraulic clutch. There's a little less than 100,000 miles on it.
>
> Silly me, I lent it to my cousin, and it came back with no clutch.
>
> Now, I usually do my own work on vehicles (axle seals, brakes, and
once a
> pair of head gaskets on my boss' truck), and I have fairly good
tools and
> axle stands and stuff, but I'm a little worried about dropping the
tranny
> and doing the job all by myself.
>
> I am assuming that I have the infamed Mazda 5-speed close-ratio.
There's
> no granny gear. The transmission body looks like aluminum, with a
cast
> body that has aluminum ribs running in circles outside it. The
bell
> housing is not removable, but rather is part of the transmission
case.
>
> My question is: what's involved in a clutch job? Do I have to
remove the
> transfer case, then drop the whole tranny, or do I have to pull
the
> drive-shafts (new U-joints?), then the transfer case, then the
tranny?
> Will I have to remove (and rebleed?) the slave cylinder? Can it
be done
> on a carport floor under axle stands with a floor-jack? Tell me,
`O great
> experienced Ford Truck people!
>
> I also have a question about door hinge bushings, but I'll save it
for
> another day...
>
> Bill Wagner in northern British Columbia.
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
==========================================================
To unsubscribe:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: DJ250r aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 20:24:51 EDT
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power

ok all fine with the gears raitos BUT dose any one know how much to have the
change done????????????? lol

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 21:15:33 -0700
From: Paul Harp mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power

Several years ago I had 3:55's installed in my mustang. I paid ~$160 for the gears and $125 to have them installed. The labor charges are probably a bit lower than the average price today but I would think you could have it done for ~$350. That is for the rear axle. Gear prices are probably similar but I have no idea about the labor charges for swapping gears on the front axle.

The gear swap would also provide a good opportunity to replace any worn bearings in the diffs.

If the only time you have trouble with the truck bogging down is when you pull your boat out of the water, why not just use the 4WD low range to get it up the ramp?

Paul Harp

>
> From: DJ250r aol.com
> Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 10:14:58 EDT
> Subject: Re: 300I6 needs more power
>
> thats what i kinda need truck bogs realy bad pulling my boat out of the
> water i have to ride the clutch to get it out and boy dose that stink lol ,i
> am looking for a tire change i plan on going to a 33s and i want the truck
> to have the feel of the stock gearing with those 33s on there agian how much
> is a gear change???


------------------------------

From: "Nathan Carlson" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 17:55:48 AKDT

"Maybe I got hold of a good one then :-)
My 1983 F150 with a (stock w/1V Carter YF carb) 300 inline
six easily pulled a 6500 pound car home up some pretty steep
inclines in 3rd gear (NP435 trans, 3.08 axle gear ratio) with
power to spare."

geez, what kind of car was that? I do plenty of towing with my 4.9, because
i've my job. i regularly pull 4k without a problem, but i don't encounter
too many hills. I've pulled 6k with it before, through nothing but hills,
and i did slow down going up the hills.---Nathan---'88 F-150 XLT Lariat,
5spd, 4.9 w/250k and climbing



________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Harris, Scott" dfwairport.com>
Subject: Re: outside air intake
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 22:39:04 -0500

I've been contemplating this in my trucks but wasn't sure how much water
would be taken in while driving in the rain. You have any low point water
drains? Or has it been a problem?

-----Original Message-----
From: craig eggerman [mailto:eggerman juno.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 9:20 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] outside air intake


Someone earlier asked about an outside air duct. I put one in on my 88 E-350
that had dual batteries in it. This entailed using 4 inch fexible heavy duty
metal dryer vent tube. About $4. I took the grill off, popped the plastic
plate off in the lower left hand corner, increased the size of the opening
below the second battery tray and wormed it through and up to match up with
the breather box connection. This took some time as this area is full of
extra battery cables, transmission cooler lines and oil cooler lines. It
works great. Cost $4.
Craig Eggerman

==========================================================
To unsubscribe:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying..

------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 00:29:57 EDT
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power

I don't think the C-5 holds up too well to the extra demand of a V8, and
then considering the cost & head-ache of the conversion to a 8 cylinder, my
advise would be to jazz-up your 6 banger with something like a cat-back
system and a K&N fliter and "run what ya brung"
Alex
<< I have been following your posts on this point and would like to ask for
your opinion. I have a stock '85 F150 with the 300 I-6, 3.08 rear gears and
a C5 three speed auto tranny. I just had the tranny rebuilt, so I would like
to hold on to it. Does it make any sense to bolt up a V8 to this tranny/rear
gear setup, or should I look into some performance mods on the I-6. >>

------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONCaol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 00:30:58 EDT
Subject: Re: 300I6 needs more power

If you do some junk yard hunting, you should be able to find a GOOD used
set of gears for less than $300 ....and to drop them in yourself, all you'll
need is a few hours of daylight, a tube of silicone, a couple of quarts of
gear lube and a six-pack of cold drinks. It's all just nuts & bolts, no big
deal.
Alex
<< thats what i kinda need truck bogs realy bad pulling my boat out of the
water i have to ride the clutch to get it out and boy dose that stink lol
,i
am looking for a tire change i plan on going to a 33s and i want the truck
to have the feel of the stock gearing with those 33s on there agian how
much
is a gear change??? >>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 21:39:29 -0700
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: 85 smog check

>>>Two quick questions. Vehicle is question is an '85 F250 with the 460 and
T-19:

I have a 84 F-250 w/ 460 so my info may be different but here goes

>1. Which carburetor model does this come with? I can't seem to find the
tag.

Mine does not have a tag on it either,the number is stamped in the
airhorn.
Mine is a Motorcraft,but was manufactured by Holley.Looks like a
Holley,but a Holley rebuild kit etc.won't work.

>>>2. I assume I'm going to have problems with California smog on this. It is a non-cat vehicle, so I assume that will be taken into effect. Therefore, if I put a cat on it, how much will this improve my chances of passing? How much of each type of pollutant does a cat actually cut?

Mine goes right through Nevada smog check evry year with no problem.
I would get it checked first,before buying a cat.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 22:12:30 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: 85 smog check

At 09:39 PM 7/12/00 -0700, you wrote:
> >>>2. I assume I'm going to have problems with California smog on
> this. It is a non-cat vehicle, so I assume that will be taken into
> effect. Therefore, if I put a cat on it, how much will this
> improve my chances of passing? How much of each type of pollutant
> does a cat actually cut?
>
>Mine goes right through Nevada smog check evry year with no problem.
>I would get it checked first,before buying a cat.

I agree. As an owner of a truck that was deemed a gross polluter before I
bought it, I can say
that you don't want to attempt to outguess the smog nazis.
Go to a station that will do a pre-test. This will let you know exactly
what has to be done to
pass the test. Get the repairs and parts and then go pass the test.
Chuck
Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
86 F150 300 cu in six banger
FAX 1-310-822-6815


------------------------------

From: "Joel Thomas" prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 300I6 performance
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 00:19:51 -0500


Did you not read the first part of my column it said THIS IS NOT EXACT
I was stating a point.
that dropping down to 3rd gear or whatever gear will mean you slow down some and if the engine cannot speed you back up because you are on a hill you are stuck with that slower speed. but a gear change will raise the rpms to a more sutable one for building speed because you have a little higher rpms.
as in if you switched to 4.10s from 3.55's you would have much better startup for getting heavy loads started then your speeds would be different in all gears of your trannies so if you have good rpms in the gear to crawl hills you can keep going but with the 3.55s you would have to slow down because the shift lag time.
drag racers and 4wheeldrivers will tell you the same and know a lot about this. me being a 4wheeldriver and a racer.and yes i tow a lot.
i know about this too :)

thanks
Joel Thomas
Little Rock,AR

<
If I'm reading your posting right (which isn't all that easy) you are saying
the 3.08 rear in 4th gear at 45 mph will give 1300 engine rpm, but going to
a 3.55 or 3.73 will raise rpm to around 2500.

Um, nope. The 3.55 is 15.3% steeper than the 3.08, and will raise rpm by
exactly 15.3%. 1300 rpm becomes 1500 rpm. Likewise the 3.73 is 21.1%

If the engine in this example (the I-6) makes peak HP around 3200 rpm, and
you're bogging in 4th going down to 1300rpm, DOWNSHIFT! You NEED to get it
back up toward 3000-ish to extract near the peak HP. I can see changing out
an axle ratio when you go to oversize tires, or if you want to increase the
creep of your creeper gear, or if the engine is *always* running just below
its powerband at common road speeds (like 65mph in 5th).


Steve Offiler
soffilercentraltools.com
<'97 F250HD XL 4x4, 351, E40D, 4.10's


------------------------------

From: "Obert, Scott AT3" constellation.navy.mil>
Subject: Dying Battery
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 21:40:19 -0700

Thanks for all the info guys, I think I got the problem fixed. The battery
posts and cables weren't corroded at all but they were a littly dirty, just
a dull grey coating so I didn't think that was the probelem. I took it to
the local parts store and they tested the battery, it tested good. So I
cleaned up the posts and cables real good last night and that appears to
have fixed it. It survived the night and all day and started up this
afternoon just fine. Thanks to all for the advice.

Thanks,
Scott Obert
1995 F150 302
4X4 Short Box

------------------------------

From: soffilercentraltools.com
Subject: Re: 300I6 needs more power
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 07:10:08 -0400

Are you talking about buying the whole axle assembly complete from the
junkyard? Now, that's a pretty straightforward job. Just deal with spring
U-bolts, brakes & brake lines, shocks, and driveshaft.

However, if you are talking about the gearset itself.... It is NOT "all
nuts and bolts, no big deal". There are two tricky measurements: pinion
depth, and ring gear backlash. Pinion depth is controlled by a shim pack
behind the pinion bearing, and if it is off by even a few thousandths of an
inch, the gearset will whine dramatically on the highway. Off by a few more
thousandths, and the mismatch in the gear tooth mesh increases friction and
wear, and decreases load capacity.

Steve Offiler
soffilercentraltools.com
'97 F250HD XL 4x4, 351, E40D, 4.10's


> If you do some junk yard hunting, you should be able to
> find a GOOD used
> set of gears for less than $300 ....and to drop them in
> yourself, all you'll
> need is a few hours of daylight, a tube of silicone, a couple
> of quarts of
> gear lube and a six-pack of cold drinks. It's all just nuts
> & bolts, no big
> deal.


------------------------------

From: soffilercentraltools.com
Subject: Re: 300I6 performance
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 07:31:18 -0400

Yes, I can read, and yes, I know you said it was "not exact". The problem
was that it wasn't even *close*, and therefore does not help illustrate your
point.

My point is that bogging on a hill in 4th generally requires a downshift to
3rd, NOT necessarily an axle swap from 3.08 to 3.55. That downshift will
get the engine back into its powerband and will not slow you down as much as
you seem to think it will.

Okay I'm not a drag racer, but I've been offroading since 1985 and towing
around antique farm tractors since about 1994. If you are losing so much
speed on a hill when downshifting, maybe you should learn to snap off the
shift a bit quicker or consider an automatic!

Don't forget we are discussing performance mod's for an I-6. I originally
suggested that he concentrate on the engine first, because my personal
opinion is that a header, low restriction exhaust, and maybe a cam, would
give more bang for the buck than an axle swap. I then suggested that if
larger than stock tires are involved, an axle swap is immediately a smart
idea. And an axle swap is also a good idea if the vehicle is constantly
running below its powerband under a variety of different road conditions.
These trucks get driven loaded and unloaded on hills and flats, so let's not
gear the thing for one narrow set of conditions, shall we?

Steve O.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: 80-96-list-bounceford-trucks.com
> [mailto:80-96-list-bounceford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Joel Thomas
> Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 1:20 AM
> To: Ford truck; Ford Performance
> Subject: [80-96-list] Re: 300I6 performance
>
>
>
> Did you not read the first part of my column it said THIS IS NOT EXACT
> I was stating a point.
> that dropping down to 3rd gear or whatever gear will mean you
> slow down some and if the engine cannot speed you back up
> because you are on a hill you are stuck with that slower
> speed. but a gear change will raise the rpms to a more
> sutable one for building speed because you have a little higher rpms.
> as in if you switched to 4.10s from 3.55's you would have
> much better startup for getting heavy loads started then your
> speeds would be different in all gears of your trannies so if
> you have good rpms in the gear to crawl hills you can keep
> going but with the 3.55s you would have to slow down because
> the shift lag time.
> drag racers and 4wheeldrivers will tell you the same and know
> a lot about this. me being a 4wheeldriver and a racer.and yes
> i tow a lot.
> i know about this too :)
>
> thanks
> Joel Thomas
> Little Rock,AR
>
> < > thanks anyway.
>
> If I'm reading your posting right (which isn't all that easy)
> you are saying
> the 3.08 rear in 4th gear at 45 mph will give 1300 engine
> rpm, but going to
> a 3.55 or 3.73 will raise rpm to around 2500.
>
> Um, nope. The 3.55 is 15.3% steeper than the 3.08, and will
> raise rpm by
> exactly 15.3%. 1300 rpm becomes 1500 rpm. Likewise the 3.73 is 21.1%
> >
> If the engine in this example (the I-6) makes peak HP around
> 3200 rpm, and
> you're bogging in 4th going down to 1300rpm, DOWNSHIFT! You
> NEED to get it
> back up toward 3000-ish to extract near the peak HP. I can
> see changing out
> an axle ratio when you go to oversize tires, or if you want
> to increase the
> creep of your creeper gear, or if the engine is *always*
> running just below
> its powerband at common road speeds (like 65mph in 5th).
>
>
> Steve Offiler
> soffilercentraltools.com
> <'97 F250HD XL 4x4, 351, E40D, 4.10's
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 06:05:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Peterson go.com>
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power

I agree. My 86 F-150 (same setup) seems to pull fine. I haven't had problems with 7000+ lb. loads. This is on flat ground, though.


>Maybe I got hold of a good one then :-)
>My 1983 F150 with a (stock w/1V Carter YF carb) 300 >inline
>six easily pulled a 6500 pound car home up some pretty >steep
>inclines in 3rd gear (NP435 trans, 3.08 axle gear ratio) >with
>power to spare.



___________________________________________________
GO Network Mail
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mail.go.com



------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONCaol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 09:40:49 EDT
Subject: Re: 300I6 needs more power

I'm talking about changing out just the pumpkin (the tube of silicone is for
sealing it to the axle housing). A complete axle swap is quite a bit more
involved and usually not necessary unless there's something broken or
damaged. If the rear-end is not a Ford 9", then upgrading the whole axle
assembly might be a good way to go...and still inexpensive.
Alex

<< Are you talking about buying the whole axle assembly complete from the
junkyard? Now, that's a pretty straightforward job. Just deal with spring
U-bolts, brakes & brake lines, shocks, and driveshaft. >>

------------------------------

From: jrnoakes texas.net>
Subject: '95 300 I6 Just Needs Power!
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 09:03:04 -0500

Listers,

I just want to start out by saying that I have enjoyed the string on the
"300 I6 Needs more power".

History:
Over the past two years I have been having the problem with the dual
Fuel tanks where when you run out of gas in the front, switch to the rear, run
Out of gas in the rear, switch back to the front and magically have half a tank
Of gas again. Over the past month the front tank has been emptying more
Quickly in the front than before and the rear now stays fuller longer.

Problem:
Now, the truck is starting to cut out when I am not applying pressure to the
Accelerator. As soon as I press the accelerator, it picks up and drives without
A problem, until I again let off of the gas. If I switch tanks, it seems to alleviate
The problem for a while, but then reverts back to its huffing and puffing.

Real problem:
My wife had to drive my truck yesterday to work (God forbid) and almost got
Stranded on the interstate, so I think its time to get this fixed.

Resolution:
Clogged fuel filter? Clogged injectors? Fuel pump?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Justen Noakes
Jrnoakestexas.net
'95 F-150 4.9L, 5spd Mazda, 2wd
'99 VW Passat, 1.8L, Triptronic 5spd




------------------------------

From: DJ250raol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 10:12:27 EDT
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power

I dont have 4x4 .the next truck i get will have 4x4 ok now is the axle on
your mustangand the axle on a 95 150 going to be the same ?

------------------------------

From: DJ250raol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 10:24:10 EDT
Subject: Re: '95 300 I6 Just Needs Power!

cap roter plugs filter oh yea dont forget the neet little tool that you have
to get to replace the filter

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 09:56:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Derek Whiteside rocketmail.com>
Subject: front brake job

> The front brakes (disc) are pretty worn on my 92 F150 4x2 supercab
> (300
> i-6). The rig has 90,000 miles on it.
>
> I was planning to turn the rotors and replace the pads; should I do
> anything else? Do I need to/should I rebuild the calipers, for
> instance? Is there anything else in there I should plan on taking
> care
> of? Some bearings, maybe?
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> best,
>
> Derek Whiteside
> Albany, OR

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get Yahoo! Mail Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mail.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: soffilercentraltools.com
Subject: Re: front brake job
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 13:25:23 -0400

I'm not completely sure, but it is possible that your front calipers use
slides which absolutely should be lubricated as part of the brake job.
Slide-type calipers use one (sometimes two) pistons on the INSIDE only, and
squeeze both sides of the disc by virtue of this sliding action. The other
type of caliper will have a piston (infrequently, two pistons) on BOTH sides
of the disc and does not slide. I don't see any need to rebuild the caliper
itself, just lube the slides.

Another thing to seriously consider is changing your brake fluid. While
this is not a particularly common maintenance task, brake fluid is extremely
hygroscopic (it sucks up water from the air, which comes in from the vent in
the master cylinder reservoir). Once water-laden, it becomes corrosive. In
order to change the fluid, you will need to know the bleeding procedure.
With the rear antilock brake unit there might be a special bleeding
procedure and I don't know it off the top of my head.

You mention bearings - yes, once disassembled far enough to remove the
rotors for turning, the bearings are right there and should be inspected,
repacked, or replaced if you have signs of advancing wear. Remember to get
a set of replacement seals for the rear bearings.

Steve Offiler
soffilercentraltools.com
'97 F250HD XL 4x4, 351, E40D, 4.10's

> -----Original Message-----
> From: 80-96-list-bounceford-trucks.com
> [mailto:80-96-list-bounceford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Derek Whiteside
> Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 12:56 PM
> To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] front brake job
>
>
> > The front brakes (disc) are pretty worn on my 92 F150 4x2 supercab
> > (300
> > i-6). The rig has 90,000 miles on it.
> >
> > I was planning to turn the rotors and replace the pads; should I do
> > anything else? Do I need to/should I rebuild the calipers, for
> > instance? Is there anything else in there I should plan on taking
> > care
> > of? Some bearings, maybe?
> >
> > Thanks for any advice.
> >
> > best,
> >
> > Derek Whiteside
> > Albany, OR
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get Yahoo! Mail Free email you can access from anywhere!
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mail.yahoo.com/
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 18:12:58 -0500
From: Jim Cannon SoftHome.net>
Subject: Re: '95 300 I6 Just Needs Power!

At 09:03 13-07-00 -0500, you wrote:
>Listers,
>
>I just want to start out by saying that I have enjoyed the string on the
>"300 I6 Needs more power".
>
>History:
>Over the past two years I have been having the problem with the dual
>Fuel tanks where when you run out of gas in the front, switch to the rear, run
>Out of gas in the rear, switch back to the front and magically have half a
>tank
>Of gas again. Over the past month the front tank has been emptying more
>Quickly in the front than before and the rear now stays fuller longer.

This is a known problem. There is a Tech Service Bulletin out on it by
Ford. Also the subject of a recall on some years. Start by talking to
dealer, try to get it repaired at no cost to you. If you can't, I think
you will find out that it is the selector valve going bad, and/or the fuel
pump(s) causing the problem.

The pumps in each tank push fuel up to the fuel injectors, then it loops
back to the fuel tank. If the selector puts it back into a tank other than
the one it came out of, you end up transferring fuel from one tank to the
other. Someone also said (I think) something about Ford putting in a check
valve to prevent fuel from going back to the wrong tank as part of the
recall. I'm not so sure about that.

>Problem:
>Now, the truck is starting to cut out when I am not applying pressure to the
>Accelerator. As soon as I press the accelerator, it picks up and drives
>without
>A problem, until I again let off of the gas. If I switch tanks, it seems
>to alleviate
>The problem for a while, but then reverts back to its huffing and puffing.
>
>Resolution:
>Clogged fuel filter? Clogged injectors? Fuel pump?

All 3 possible. If switching tanks really seems to fix it, I'd say your
fuel pumps are both going out (but it could also be selector
valve. Cycling it may get fuel moving again.) Also, remember there is a
small back-pressure valve on the fuel injector rail to keep proper pressure
to the injectors. It could be weak or going out. Check fuel line pressure
up at the injectors. (Be careful. If you're not sure what you are doing,
have a shop do it.)

Good luck.

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8


------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #136
***********************************
----------------------------------------------------------
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List

Send posts to 80-96-listford-trucks.com

If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing
list, send an email to:

listarford-trucks.com

with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of
the message.

Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
----------------------------------------------------------