Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages
contained in these archives without consent from the respective
author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on
any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by
individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors.

Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 80-96-list); Tue, 11 Jul 2000 11:25:56 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 11:25:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #134
Precedence: list

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List

Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
message.
==========================================================

------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Mon, 10 Jul 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 134

In This Issue:
300 I6 Needs more power
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Battery corrosion
Wire to VOLTS gauge
Re: Wire to VOLTS gauge
Strange coolant leak
Re: Wire to VOLTS gauge
Re: Wire to VOLTS gauge
Re: Temp Gauge
Re: Wire to VOLTS gauge
Re: Strange coolant leak
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: Clutch Master Cylinder
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: Wire to VOLTS gauge
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Power Steering
Re: Power Steering
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: Battery corrosion
Re: Power Steering
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Re: 300 I6 Needs more power

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "James" colstate.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 11:56:34 -0500
Subject: 300 I6 Needs more power

I have a 1989 F150 with the 300 six and Mazda 5 speed. Without a
load, it does fine, but when I try to pull my 3500 pound trailer,
it just doesn't have the power to pull hills. Would headers help my
towing ability? A "cat back" exhaust system? How about a cam?
Do the "chips" really help?

I may be overlooking the obvious; I have 3.08 gears; maybe I should
swap in 3.55's.

Thanks,
James Hiers




------------------------------

From: soffiler centraltools.com
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 12:11:57 -0400

James:

Personal opinions to follow. Others may disagree.

First of all, the 300 engine makes respectable low-end torque, but isn't
known for abilty to produce high-rpm horsepower. You can make improvements
in breathing with a carefully selected header, and a free-flowing exhaust
never hurts, with or without the headers. A cam, again carefully selected,
can help. I'm not going to comment on the chips as I have heard markedly
different anecdotal reports and no direct experience of my own.

When I say "carefully selected" above, what I really mean is both headers
and cams will be designed to emphasize either low-end torque or high-rpm
horsepower, but not both. If you find you have the pedal to the metal on
the hills but the vehicle is losing speed and rpm, you need more torque. If
you can pull hills steadily but wish you had more ability to accelerate
uphill, then you need more horsepower.

Basically, all the engine mod's you mention in your note have the potential
to improve performance. If you do it all, you can realize the biggest gains
if you do it right. Maybe you should just start with the cheapest mod and
see how you like it. Keep adding money until you get it where you like it.

Incidentally, I'm not so sure about the axle. Swapping a higher ratio is
like downshifting one gear. Since you have a 5-speed, you already have
plenty of gear ratios at your disposal while pulling up hills. Now, on the
other hand, if you have trouble moving the load from a standstill, then a
3.55 will net you a lower 1st gear to help get things moving.

Steve Offiler
soffiler centraltools.com
'97 F250HD XL 4x4, 351, E40D, 4.10's

> -----Original Message-----
> From: 80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of James
> Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 12:57 PM
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] 300 I6 Needs more power
>
>
> I have a 1989 F150 with the 300 six and Mazda 5 speed. Without a
> load, it does fine, but when I try to pull my 3500 pound trailer,
> it just doesn't have the power to pull hills. Would headers help my
> towing ability? A "cat back" exhaust system? How about a cam?
> Do the "chips" really help?
>
> I may be overlooking the obvious; I have 3.08 gears; maybe I should
> swap in 3.55's.
>
> Thanks,
> James Hiers
>
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Larry Volz" ilhawaii.net>
Subject: Battery corrosion
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 06:16:26 -1000


enough to hold back several hundred amps.>

No voltage, no amps ! ! ! Voltage is the pusher, amps is what gets pushed

For years now I've covered battery connections with wheel bearing grease. Works


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:16:49 -0700
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Wire to VOLTS gauge

Hey Gang,
Nice to be back to work.....NOT!
I had just posted this question to a specific list member but in thinking
about it I thought I'd let the rest of you have some fun.
Which wire do I pick up to run to an aftermarket VOLTS gauge on my
86, 300 cu in F150?
Thanks,
Chuck
Chuck Sanborn
Torrance, CA
1986 F150 six banger


------------------------------

From: soffilercentraltools.com
Subject: Re: Wire to VOLTS gauge
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 12:54:56 -0400

Typical 18-gage automotive wire will be fine. The voltmeter doesn't draw
any current, and it's high current that requires heavier wiring. You could
easily go lighter than 18, but 18 is something of a defacto automotive
standard.


Steve Offiler
soffilercentraltools.com
'97 F250HD XL 4x4, 351, E40D, 4.10's

> -----Original Message-----
> From: 80-96-list-bounceford-trucks.com
> [mailto:80-96-list-bounceford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Chuck Sanborn
> Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 12:17 PM
> To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] Wire to VOLTS gauge
>
>
> Hey Gang,
> Nice to be back to work.....NOT!
> I had just posted this question to a specific list member but
> in thinking
> about it I thought I'd let the rest of you have some fun.
> Which wire do I pick up to run to an aftermarket VOLTS gauge on my
> 86, 300 cu in F150?
> Thanks,
> Chuck
> Chuck Sanborn
> Torrance, CA
> 1986 F150 six banger


------------------------------

From: warren.g.kaferexgate.tek.com
Subject: Strange coolant leak
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:16:00 -0700

Greetings All!

I have been lurking for a long time (though I have emailed several
with suggestions directly.)

The patient:
'87 F250 XLT CC 2WD 116K miles
carbed 460 to C6 (10K miles) to 3.55's

The sad story: The day before leaving for a two week vacation I
noticed a puddle of coolant under the truck at the local home
improvement store. RATS!!!! Determined it to be a slow drip from
somewhere on front of engine so loosened radiator cap and drove
a mile to home.

After vacation filled up 1/4 full(!!!) radiator and started engine
to determine source of leak and found it to be between the block
and the timing chain cover on the driver's side. Why would any
engineer route coolant through a timing chain cover?!!?

So... can I get the timing chain cover off with the water pump
intact? The water pump was replaced at 86K by previous owner. I
can feel a very slight up and down movement of the pump shaft but
no in and out movement so I don't think I need to replace it.

Should I replace the timing chain while I'm in there (if it's got
slop) or ignore it until I rebuild the whole enchilada?

Are there any winsome words on this procedure from you guys?

Sorry for the long sad story... Thanks in advance for you help!


** Warren Kafer --- Tektronix, Inc. --- Beaverton, OR **
** Standard Disclaimer: Any ideas or opinions expressed here do **
** not necessarily reflect the ideas or opinions of my employer. **

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:34:09 -0700
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Wire to VOLTS gauge

At 12:54 PM 7/10/00 -0400, you wrote:
>Typical 18-gage automotive wire will be fine.

Thanks Steve..what I meant was which wire do I tap into
to run to the gauge...My mistake for not being more clear
with the query.
Chuck



------------------------------

From: soffilercentraltools.com
Subject: Re: Wire to VOLTS gauge
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:51:24 -0400

Ooops... geez, I went back and re-read your note, and it's my mistake!
Sorry.

Anyway, I would personally want my voltmeter to show me battery voltage as
directly as possible. I'd try to tap in as close to the positive battery
terminal as possible - maybe on the solenoid? Picking up a hardwired 12V
point in the fuse box MAY not be as desirable, because there may be
electrical loads drawing off that circuit upstream of the fuse box that
could pull voltage down a bit from battery voltage.

This is all pretty theoretical. Wish I knew where the factory *actually*
makes its connections on voltmeter-equipped vehicles!

Steve Offiler
soffilercentraltools.com
'97 F250HD XL 4x4, 351, E40D, 4.10's

> -----Original Message-----
> From: 80-96-list-bounceford-trucks.com
> [mailto:80-96-list-bounceford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Chuck Sanborn
> Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 1:34 PM
> To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
> Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Wire to VOLTS gauge
>
>
> At 12:54 PM 7/10/00 -0400, you wrote:
> >Typical 18-gage automotive wire will be fine.
>
> Thanks Steve..what I meant was which wire do I tap into
> to run to the gauge...My mistake for not being more clear
> with the query.
> Chuck


------------------------------

From: "Troy Kislak" esmii.com>
Subject: Re: Temp Gauge
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 14:02:02 -0400

I have a 96 F-150 x-cab, 4x4 , 5.0L, automatic. Recently the temp gauge
began operating erratically.This continued for a while and then appeared to
be dead. I figured it's the sending unit...changed it and nothing..still no
temp. Is the sender with the "bolt" sticking out the one for the gauge, or
is it the one with the plastic connector? Any thoughts on this? I've
checked the wire and the firewall connector...I really hope it isn't in the
dashboard.

Troy
Pittsburgh, Pa


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 12:32:14 -0700
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Wire to VOLTS gauge

OOOOKAAAYYYY...Now I got it.
What was confuzing me were the cheap ass instructions that
came with this SunPro meter. The Amp and the Volt meter
instructions were both the same and it said NOT to ground the
meter. That made sense...but as far as I knew I had to ground
the Volt meter. Now that I have it straight I can hook-em up.
I'd write to Sun-Pro about this if I spoke Taiwaneeze :-)
Chuck


------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Strange coolant leak
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:08:29 -0700

If you buy a timing chain cover gasket set, it should come with the water
pump gaskets, fuel pump gasket, front crank seal. So you don't have to
replace it, just regasket it. Once you get tore down far enough to get a
hold of the crank damper, you can rock it back and forth to feel the play in
the timing chain. I would say anything over 7 degrees should be replaced.
You can also turn the crank until all of the slack is out of the chain on
one side and check chain deflection. The book says no more than 1/2".
Jason
'69 Bronco
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD

----- Original Message -----
From: exgate.tek.com>
To: <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 10:16 AM
Subject: [80-96-list] Strange coolant leak


> Greetings All!
>
> I have been lurking for a long time (though I have emailed several
> with suggestions directly.)
>
> The patient:
> '87 F250 XLT CC 2WD 116K miles
> carbed 460 to C6 (10K miles) to 3.55's
>
> The sad story: The day before leaving for a two week vacation I
> noticed a puddle of coolant under the truck at the local home
> improvement store. RATS!!!! Determined it to be a slow drip from
> somewhere on front of engine so loosened radiator cap and drove
> a mile to home.
>
> After vacation filled up 1/4 full(!!!) radiator and started engine
> to determine source of leak and found it to be between the block
> and the timing chain cover on the driver's side. Why would any
> engineer route coolant through a timing chain cover?!!?
>
> So... can I get the timing chain cover off with the water pump
> intact? The water pump was replaced at 86K by previous owner. I
> can feel a very slight up and down movement of the pump shaft but
> no in and out movement so I don't think I need to replace it.
>
> Should I replace the timing chain while I'm in there (if it's got
> slop) or ignore it until I rebuild the whole enchilada?
>
> Are there any winsome words on this procedure from you guys?
>
> Sorry for the long sad story... Thanks in advance for you help!
>
>
> ** Warren Kafer --- Tektronix, Inc. --- Beaverton, OR **
> ** Standard Disclaimer: Any ideas or opinions expressed here do **
> ** not necessarily reflect the ideas or opinions of my employer. **
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:35:48 -0700
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power

At 11:56 AM 7/10/00 -0500, you wrote:
>I have a 1989 F150 with the 300 six and Mazda 5 speed.

Now this interests me James...Did that tranny come stock
or is it something that you put in?
Chuck


------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 16:12:28 -0700

Its the light duty version that Ford uses. The HD version being the ZF.
Jason
'69 Bronco
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Sanborn" deltanet.com>
To: <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 1:35 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: 300 I6 Needs more power


> At 11:56 AM 7/10/00 -0500, you wrote:
> >I have a 1989 F150 with the 300 six and Mazda 5 speed.
>
> Now this interests me James...Did that tranny come stock
> or is it something that you put in?
> Chuck
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 17:49:07 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power

Thanks Jason...I will look into this
Chuck

At 04:12 PM 7/10/00 -0700, you wrote:
>Its the light duty version that Ford uses. The HD version being the ZF.
>Jason


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 21:23:34 -0400
From: S Spaulding worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power

FYI..

The granny gear 5-speeds (F250HD and F350) are made by ZF. The close
ratio 5-speeds (F150 & F250LD) are made by Mazda.

Steve S.

chuck sanborn wrote:
>
> Thanks Jason...I will look into this
> Chuck
>
> At 04:12 PM 7/10/00 -0700, you wrote:
> >Its the light duty version that Ford uses. The HD version being the ZF.
> >Jason
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:30:48 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power

Steve,
Thanks for the additional info...guess the Mazda one is the one I will
look into..
When did they start putting those trannies in. Nice to know when at
the boneyard, not that there's that many pickemups there.
Chuck

At 09:23 PM 7/10/00 -0400, you wrote:
>FYI..
>
>The granny gear 5-speeds (F250HD and F350) are made by ZF. The close
>ratio 5-speeds (F150 & F250LD) are made by Mazda.
>
>Steve S.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 21:46:29 -0500
From: Buck Shoff sktc.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch Master Cylinder

Some slaves have bleeders. The one in my 86 F250 had one and it wasn't
hard to bleed at all. Look for a allen headed screw near where the line
goes in and bleed it like a brake cylinder. Buck Shoff


> New slave cylinders are brutal to bleed (at least mine was). You aren't
> supposed to bench bleed them like a brake master. I added fluid with an eye
> dropper, and when it was full I covered the opening and shook it. Then I
> added more fluid. Took about 30 minutes before I couldn't get in any more
> fluid and I decided it was fully bled.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Mark Salvetti
> 1986 F150 5.0L

------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:52:10 -0700

Some 150's came with the ZF as well.
Jason
'69 Bronco
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD

----- Original Message -----
From: "S Spaulding" worldnet.att.net>
To: <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 6:23 PM
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: 300 I6 Needs more power


> FYI..
>
> The granny gear 5-speeds (F250HD and F350) are made by ZF. The close
> ratio 5-speeds (F150 & F250LD) are made by Mazda.
>
> Steve S.
>
> chuck sanborn wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Jason...I will look into this
> > Chuck
> >
> > At 04:12 PM 7/10/00 -0700, you wrote:
> > >Its the light duty version that Ford uses. The HD version being the
ZF.
> > >Jason
> >
> > ==========================================================
> > To unsubscribe:
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> > Please remove this footer when replying.
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

From: Lingus0169aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 22:48:54 EDT
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power

if you want that much extra power..why dont you swap oin a 351, the 351 has
plenty of anything u want for towing or what not..im pretty sure if you set
it up right, your 351 will get the same mpg as does the 300

------------------------------

From: DJ250raol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 23:16:39 EDT
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power

thats for sure my i6 really sucks the gasim going to off it as soon as its
payed for

------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONCaol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 23:39:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Wire to VOLTS gauge

Since a volt gauge does use power (it completes a circuit), tapping into
the battery or at the solenoid will cause a key-off draw. The best place to
tap into for a V gauge is at the fuse panel on a circuit that's only
energized with the key on. Any volt loss by the by the circuit will be
minimally noticed at the gauge... try using a minor circuit, like the clock
or wiper terminal. My '84 had an amp gauge in the dash so I added a volt
gauge and tapped into the fuse for the seat belt warning indicator.... that
helped me when the voltage regulator went bad, seeing the volt reading swing
from 8v to 18v and anywhere in between told me it was time to open the hood
and get my hands dirty.
Alex

<<....Try to tap in as close to the positive battery
terminal as possible - maybe on the solenoid? Picking up a hardwired 12V
point in the fuse box MAY not be as desirable, because there may be
electrical loads drawing off that circuit upstream of the fuse box that
could pull voltage down a bit from battery voltage. >>

------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONCaol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 00:50:06 EDT
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power

Putting in lower gears (numerically higher), such as the 3.55:1 or 4.10:1
will make it seem like you have more power... and it's the easiest and most
efficient way to increase towing power. You can easily dump a ton of money
into a 300-six with an exhaust, cam and fuel modification, but when you get
all done (no offense intended), you still have a 6 cylinder engine with
6-banger power. Even using a souped-up 300 cu. in. engine to pull a 3500
pound trailer and expecting the engine NOT to bog down on hills is a bit
unrealistic. I live at 5400ft. elevation and regularly travel over
high-mountain passes that exceed 10,000ft., so the 6 cylinder tow rigs are an
oddity around here. There's no substitute for cubic inches and V-8 power
when it comes to towing.... unless you can get your hands on a blower ;-)
Alex

<< I have a 1989 F150 with the 300 six and Mazda 5 speed. Without a
load, it does fine, but when I try to pull my 3500 pound trailer,
it just doesn't have the power to pull hills. Would headers help my
towing ability? A "cat back" exhaust system? How about a cam?
Do the "chips" really help?

I may be overlooking the obvious; I have 3.08 gears; maybe I should
swap in 3.55's. >>

------------------------------

From: CRGREENE1aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 04:41:56 EDT
Subject: Power Steering

Hey guys, I have a '92 F 250 and just wanted to see how hard it is to go
about replacing the power steering pump? Is it hard to get to and what's
involved?

Thanks in advance!
C.Greene

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 05:05:19 -0400
From: S Spaulding worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Power Steering

The only tricky part is that you need a special puller for the pulley,
which will cost around $35. The other thing is that in many cases your
warranty will be void if you don't replace the lines. You have to go
through a flushing/bleeding procedure to get rid of all of the old fluid
and any air in the system. If you don't, you will be changing it again.

Steve S.

CRGREENE1aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey guys, I have a '92 F 250 and just wanted to see how hard it is to go
> about replacing the power steering pump? Is it hard to get to and what's
> involved?
>
> Thanks in advance!
> C.Greene
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: soffilercentraltools.com
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 06:56:41 -0400


> Putting in lower gears (numerically higher), such as the
> 3.55:1 or 4.10:1
> will make it seem like you have more power... and it's the
> easiest and most
> efficient way to increase towing power....

(snip)

Just a comment - you can't "increase towing power" with an axle swap. Power
comes from the engine, period. All you can do with gears is monkey around
with the road speed you get OUT for a given engine rpm IN.

I did notice you use the word "seem" and I agree with that.

Steve Offiler
soffilercentraltools.com
'97 F250HD XL 4x4, 351, E40D, 4.10's


------------------------------

From: "Steve Schmeckpeper" home.com>
Subject: Re: Battery corrosion
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 06:34:13 -0500

Amen 8^>

>-----Original Message-----
>From: 80-96-list-bounceford-trucks.com
>[mailto:80-96-list-bounceford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Larry Volz


>For years now I've covered battery connections with wheel
>bearing grease. Works


------------------------------

From: sliknessmindspring.com
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 07:51:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Power Steering

I purchased the last two pumps from Advance Auto and the bolt to pull the pulley was included with the rebuilt pump. They also have a warranty on their pumps which I've used. The last pump I put on was adapted from a chevy and it uses a separate resevoir and is a little quieter than the Ford pumps. The hardest part is bleeding the air out of the system. It is a good idea to get new fluid, disconnect the low pressure side of the pump, and have someone pour fluid in the resevoir while you turn your steering from stop to stop (front up on jack stands) until you see the new fluid coming out. Then reconnect the hose and continue to turn from stop to stop until the remaining air quits bubbling out the top of the resevoir. (probably about 15-20 repititions)

80-96-listford-trucks.com wrote:
> Hey guys, I have a '92 F 250 and just wanted to see how hard it is to go about replacing the power steering pump? Is it hard to get to and what's
involved?

Thanks in advance!
C.Greene


------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONCaol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 09:49:54 EDT
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power

Think of gears as a lever....the more the mechanical advantage - the more
power you can transmit. Lowing the gear ratio will give more towing power by
using more of the engines available output, but will limit your top speed.
Many city delivery trucks have amazingly small engines but get the job done
with gearing. It's all about making the engine run within its power-band.
Alex

<< you can't "increase towing power" with an axle swap. Power
comes from the engine, period. All you can do with gears is monkey around
with the road speed you get OUT for a given engine rpm IN.
>>

------------------------------

From: soffilercentraltools.com
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 10:02:19 -0400

I agree that it's all about making the engine run within its power band.
But axle gearing doesn't CHANGE the available engine power, it merely
changes the road speed at which you realize that power. So does
downshifting! Recall this discussion started with a 300 I-6 equipped with a
5-speed tranny, plenty of ratio's, so downshifting is definitely an option.
This is precisely why I did not recommend the axle swap proposed.
Downshifting is free.

Steve Offiler
soffilercentraltools.com
'97 F250HD XL 4x4, 351, E40D, 4.10's

> Think of gears as a lever....the more the mechanical
> advantage - the more
> power you can transmit. Lowing the gear ratio will give more
> towing power by
> using more of the engines available output, but will limit
> your top speed.
> Many city delivery trucks have amazingly small engines but
> get the job done
> with gearing. It's all about making the engine run within its
> power-band.
> Alex
>
> << you can't "increase towing power" with an axle swap. Power
> comes from the engine, period. All you can do with gears is
> monkey around
> with the road speed you get OUT for a given engine rpm IN.
> >>


------------------------------

From: DJ250raol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 10:50:36 EDT
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power

how much is a gear change? a header? all that stuff.
i tow a 3500 lb. boat to the Colorado River all summer (about 10 to 15
times a year)
and have been doing it that way every year scenic it was new in 95, going
slow up hills really sucks but IM getting where IM going, in the winter i
tow a 5000lb trailer to glamis prob. more than that the toys i haul are more
than 1500lbs+ water and gear. on flat ground i can do 65 mph going up any
good grades IM in 2nd gear prob.
25 maybe 30 mph it is a 5 speed and I6 as soon as its paid for IM getting the
V8!!!
so what IM getting at is you can tow anything with the I 6 but your going
to go slow up hills

------------------------------

From: soffilercentraltools.com
Subject: Re: 300 I6 Needs more power
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 12:20:35 -0400

Since there's been quite a bit of discussion on the I-6, here are some HP
and T numbers just for the heck of it (my MOTOR manual only goes '83-'90).
Along the way there are a couple minor variations of a few HP either way,
but the following are very representative:

'83-'87 120HP 3200, 250 ft-lb 1600 (1-bbl. carb.)
'88-'90 150HP 3400, 260 ft-lb 2000 (F.I.)

Ouch, no wonder we love our V-8's so much. But hey wait, look at the 2-bbl
carb'ed 351:

'83-'85 150 HP 3200, 280 ft-lb 2000

A newer F.I. 300 I-6 is making roughly the same output as an older 2-bbl
351. Interesting.


Steve Offiler
soffilercentraltools.com
'97 F250HD XL 4x4, 351, E40D, 4.10's


------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #134
***********************************
----------------------------------------------------------
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 80-96 Truck Mailing List

Send posts to 80-96-listford-trucks.com

If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing
list, send an email to:

listarford-trucks.com

with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of
the message.

Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
----------------------------------------------------------

....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.