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Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 09:21:34 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #132
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80-96-list Digest Sat, 08 Jul 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 132

In This Issue:
Re: gas mileage
Rear suspension upgrading
Re: Dying Battery
Re: Dying Battery?
Re: Clutch Master Cylinder
EXCESSIVE CRANKING ON A COLD START
Re: EXCESSIVE CRANKING ON A COLD START
Truck dies while driving
update:truck turns off while driving
Re: Truck dies while driving
Re: 1995 F-150 starting
Re: gas mileage
homemade cold air intake?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mike Glynn" midwest.net>
Subject: Re: gas mileage
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 10:03:50 -0500

I have a 1994 F-150 302 automatic overdrive, 3.55 gears, locking
differential, 4 x 4, and I regularly get 15.5 to 16.5 MPG. Heavy or light
foot still in that range with about 80% highway miles. When it goes in 4 x
4 in the winter even on the interstate doing 65+ I get around 14. Towing in
drive with 6500 lbs. Behind me I'll get 12 to 14.

Mike Glynn
Carrollton, IL


------------------------------

From: Okbimmer aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 11:34:03 EDT
Subject: Rear suspension upgrading


Hello all,

I have an '83 F100 SW with a 300-6 auto and I need some advice on beefing up
the rear suspension. I believe the F100 was rated at 1/4 ton capacity and it
certainly shows, I use this pretty much as a hauling truck for umber hay etc.
I want to tow a small two horse trailer loaded with one horse for short trips
but this suspention is just too weak. Any ideas or suggestions are greatly
appreciated.

Thanks,
Dennis

83 F100
92 Explorer
84 BMW 318i

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 08:49:06 -0700
From: Marv & Marge lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Dying Battery

Scott Obert constellation.navy.mil> wrote:
> Maybe a bad connection or something is causing more strain on my battery.
> I don't even know how old the battery is. What do you think?

With this as intermittent as you describe, I think you may have a battery with
an internal intermittent "open" in a lead buss bar. Sometimes the battery is
just fine, other times it's like a dead battery. The internal lead "bars" that
connect the cells together in series sometimes fail, and though the individual
cells are all fully charged, the battery is no longer serviceable. Worse yet,
this is the condition that lends itself to batteries doing the explosive self-
destruct thing.

For the price of a new battery, I wouldn't chance the acid-spray-under-the-hood-
explosion. It's real messy, leaves the under-hood wiring prone to long-term
intermittant problems, eats the paint and sheet metal, really attacks any aluminum
there, and is just plain dangerous if you happen to be standing over it when it
decides "it's time".

Something to think about.

-Marv-

------------------------------

From: "Mark Salvetti" mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Dying Battery?
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 11:50:29 -0400

Hi Scott. My vote is with Jim Cannon; a bad connection. Is your positive
battery cable to the solenoid short and just about bent double? I've had to
replace that twice, the second time the corrosion was internal and not
obvious. Caused the same kind of intermittent starting and apparent dead
battery problems you're seeing.

If you're still wondering about the battery, you could get it tested for
free at Sears or a parts store.

Are you stationed on the Constellation? My truck was originally purchased
by a machinists mate on the USS America, CV-66.

Good luck!

Mark Salvetti
1986 F150 5.0L


------------------------------

From: "Mark Salvetti" mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch Master Cylinder
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 12:04:21 -0400

Steve Pannasch wrote:

>1984 F-150 2 wd 302 V-8 3-speed
>I have to push my clutch pedal hard into the floor to make it so I can put
the truck in reverse, and unless I wait about 30 >seconds I get some pretty
good grinding while the clutch is spinning down. The pedal adjustment where
it connects to the >master cylinder clutch rod is correct. Thinking maybe
that I had a problem with the slave I decided to replace it. The
book(Haynes) calls for a one piece unit, master to slave, which is what is
on the truck now.

Steve, the Haynes is wrong. I was able to buy separate pieces for my 1986
F150, 2WD, 302, 4-spd. There should be a roll pin on the slave that fastens
the line from the master cylinder. Be aware that I replaced the slave
first, but I ended up having to replace the clutch master too. At least in
part because the rod on my factory (?) master wasn't adjustable, and I had
to extend the rod to work with the new slave.

If difficulty engaging reverse is your only symptom, try pushing in the
clutch and engage a forward gear before reverse. You don't let the clutch
out, just put it in second and then reverse. This will stop the spinning in
the transmission and allow you to engage reverse without crunching. I'm in
the habit of doing this in any manual transmission.

I replaced my slave because it was difficult to engage/disengage first.
There was enough clutch drag that with the clutch pushed to the floor and
the transmission in first, the truck would roll forward slowly on a level
surface. If your's isn't this bad, maybe you can avoid hydraulic
replacement.

New slave cylinders are brutal to bleed (at least mine was). You aren't
supposed to bench bleed them like a brake master. I added fluid with an eye
dropper, and when it was full I covered the opening and shook it. Then I
added more fluid. Took about 30 minutes before I couldn't get in any more
fluid and I decided it was fully bled.

Hope this helps.

Mark Salvetti
1986 F150 5.0L


------------------------------

From: "Larry Volz" ilhawaii.net>
Subject: EXCESSIVE CRANKING ON A COLD START
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 09:39:23 -1000


Finally got a reman PCM from Blue Streak in Boca Ratan. FL and before changing it out we took a drive of 164 miles to get a base line MPG. It came up 18.08.

Changed out the PCM and she does start promptly now so filled the tank again and took the same trip again and we got 19.01

Thank you all for the help, Larry, 89 F-150, 302 EFI, 3.55 axle, long bed


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 14:10:25 -0700
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: EXCESSIVE CRANKING ON A COLD START

At 09:39 AM 7/8/00 -1000, you wrote:
>before changing it out we took a drive of 164 miles to get a base line MPG.

Heheh, when I would take a trip like that on Maui I would circle the entire
island!




------------------------------

From: "Monte Austin" lanset.com>
Subject: Truck dies while driving
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 15:36:50 -0700

I have a 82 F100 with 4.9L and 3 speed manual. The problem is that it will
up and die while I am driving it. It happens in town at 25mph, on the
freeway at 65mph and any speed in between. It will start back up if I wait
for the battery light to come on and then use the starter. But if I try to
start by letting the clutch back out while coasting, it backfires.

Also, I am starting to notice a rattle in my transmission that only happens
while the truck is moving. Both with and without the clutch engaged. While
sitting at a stop, no noise.

Any help much appreciated
Monte



------------------------------

From: "cyber9" lmtonline.com>
Subject: update:truck turns off while driving
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 22:30:08 -0500


yea a couple of weeks ago i wrote here about a problem i had with my 1990,F150,302,super cab, someone suggested that it might be vapor lock,some said that replace the fuel pumps, well after taking to mechanice the next day, i got the truck back in 3 days, the mechanic check the computer codes over and over again until the computer started to give some codes, he then replaced the Magnetic coil pickup sensor, the coolent sensor and finally the oxygen sensor,charged me 125.00. Ive gotten the truck back and it works great ive had it run up and down through highways,ranches and so far no problem with the truck.

thanks
Eddie San Miguel


------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 23:44:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Truck dies while driving


If I were to hazard a SWAG (scientific-wild-a**-guess), I'd say your
DuraSpark ignition module was defective.... assuming all of the under-hood
wiring and connectors are good, and the cap and rotor are in good shape.
Your '82 likely has the blue strain-relief module (which is inexpensive) that
sometimes fails as you described.

As for you noisy transmission, have you checked your u-joints lately? Best
bet is to drop the drive shaft to check them.
Alex



<< I have a 82 F100 with 4.9L and 3 speed manual. The problem is that it will
up and die while I am driving it. It happens in town at 25mph, on the
freeway at 65mph and any speed in between. It will start back up if I wait
for the battery light to come on and then use the starter. But if I try to
start by letting the clutch back out while coasting, it backfires. >>

------------------------------

From: "Dave Harmier" pdq.net>
Subject: Re: 1995 F-150 starting
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 22:46:59 -0500

My '92 (the first with the Mopar type high speed starters) got to a similar
condition.
Turns out my starter was drawing WAY too many amps. A new one along with my
roughly 18 month old Duralast Gold (Autozone) battery fixed her right up.
Food for thought.

Dave H.
90 F-350 Crew Diesel Knapheide Service Body/ Tommy Lift (The Beast)
91 F-150 Super 5.8 Tommy Lift (Dads)
92 F-150 Super 5.0 Crossbed Toolbox (Sisters)

------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: gas mileage
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 22:45:11 -0700

The reason I am asking isn't important. I got into a discussion with a guy
at work the other day. He claimed he got somewhere around 24-25 MPG on the
highway with this pickup. I didn't see how it could be done. Your replies
pretty much go with approx what I had in mind. Thanks
Jason
'69 Bronco
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD

----- Original Message -----
From: centraltools.com>
To: <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 8:40 AM
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: gas mileage


> > > Subject vehicle: 93ish F150 4x4, Ext cab shortbed, 302, 5
> > >speed, 3.55 gears. What kind of mileage could be expected
> > >with this setup?
> > > Jason
> > > '69 Bronco 5.0 EFI
> > > '96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke E4OD
>
> Fuel economy varies a LOT based upon:
>
> * driving habits (leadfoot? lightfoot?)
> * your terrain (Colorado? Kansas?)
> * your climate (cold=thick fluids=poor mpg; hot=A/C=poor mpg)
> * optional equipment (the guy with the Mudders that gets 11mpg)
> * your mix of city and highway driving
> * load (always carrying sacks of cement? 500lb of tools?)
> * etc.
>
> With all of that said, I would hazard a guess that a 302 w/ 5-spd and
> 3.55's, driven pretty easy, on stock tires, with about 50/50 city and
> highway, in mostly flat terrain, would return about 16 mpg.
>
> For comparison, my '97 F250HD with 351, E4OD automatic, 4.10 axle (heavier
> truck, bigger engine, auto trans, steeper axle ratio) gives 13mpg winter
and
> 14mpg summer.
>
>
> Steve Offiler
> soffilercentraltools.com
> '97 F250HD XL 4x4, 351, E40D, 4.10's
>
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

From: 2insaneexcite.com
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 07:19:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: homemade cold air intake?

Has anyone done this to there engine? What is all involved in it? I would
think just wrap the incoming air intake hoses to the throttle body with some
heat reflective stuff? Although i don't think it would work, using just
plain old aluminum foil wrapped around it keeps popping into my head. would
it work?
as usual all questions and no answers.

DK





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