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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 80-96-list); Mon, 03 Jul 2000 20:46:50 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2000 20:46:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #127
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------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Sun, 02 Jul 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 127

In This Issue:
scratches and truck shine :-)
Re: trailer wiring question
Re: AC Hiss
Re: warm running 300
Trailer Plug
Re: Trailer Wiring Question
Re: trailer wiring question
shorty headers
302 questions
Re: warm running 300 UPDATE
Re: AC hiss
Re: 302 questions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: 2insane excite.com
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 17:35:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: scratches and truck shine :-)

I'm just about out of the bottle of wax i use and was wondering what is one
of the better waxes out there? I saw Megiuars(sp?) 3 step kit with polish
and wax and stuff. Anyone tried that? Did it work good?
also i had a little run in with a mailbox on some icy roads this winter and
got some scratches on my truck. Could a scratch remover rubbing compound
type thing get them out or make them less visible? or would i have to
repaint the thing? well, i guess i asked enough questions now, any comments
appreciated.

DK





_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html


------------------------------

From: "Terry & Carolyn Welshans" mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: trailer wiring question
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:39:17 -0500

Nick, try this link for information on wiring up your
trailer. It has a diagram for both 6 and 7 wire sockets and
plugs:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.championtrailers.com/brkart.html

Terry & Carolyn Welshans
Lockport, IL

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=238749
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.chicagoweb.net/tractors


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2000 18:16:46 -0700
Subject: Re: AC Hiss
From: Joan and Walt Posluszny home.com>

Nelson, My 85 has been making a similar sound when the A/C is on. Believe
it or not, the bearings in the A/C cycling clutch on the compressor are shot
and when the clutch disengages and freewheels, the bearings rattle and
sounds like a hiss from inside the truck. I squirt oil in the holes in the
A/C clutch and that stops it for a month or two. I've been doing this for a
few years now. A Band-Aid but it works. I know this may be a long shot
but anything is possible. It doesn't explain your diminished cooling
however. Let us know what it is. Walt

> From: "Nelson Vasconcelos" mindspring.com>
> Subject: AC hiss
> Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 22:36:28 -0400
>
[snip]
>
> Please help, It's starting to get real hot here in New England...
>
> Thanks
>
> Nelson
> 89 F150 4x4, 300I6, 5spd
> 3" body lift,4"skyjacker lift, 33x12.50x15 Bfg AT's


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2000 18:16:59 -0700
Subject: Re: warm running 300
From: Joan and Walt Posluszny home.com>

David, Sounds like you've covered most of the bases. A leaking head gasket
could cause it to overheat. Is it running rough? Does it ping as well?
Could the engine be running way lean?

I'm not to familiar with the straight six so please excuse these next two
items if they do not pertain to the I-6. Could exhaust be getting into the
intake manifold(bad EGR) or crankcase. ?

Just some brainstorming. Good Luck Walt
>
> From: DTrowbridge webtv.net (David Trowbridge)
> Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 19:10:50 -0500 (CDT)
> Subject: warm running 300 UPDATE
>
[snip]
i'm almost at my
> whits end with this.
>
> David
> 85 F-150 300 I6


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2000 18:54:42 -0700
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Trailer Plug

>>I am borrowing a trailer from a friend. It will be the first time I tow.
My truck had a 6 prong socket on the drop step bumper. The trailer
has a 7
prong RV plug. I looked and that seemed to be the "standard." I
bought one
and removed the old one. I got four wires figured out, turn, brake,
reverse, and park. That covered one plug on the truck. The second
plug has
larger wires. One is switched hot. The other three I have no clue.
One
shows continuity, which might mean ground.

A 7 way plug is wired like this;
Term 1 White wire : grnd
Term 2 Blue wire : elec. brakes
Term 3 Green wire : tail and running lights
Term 4 Black wire : battery charge
Term 5 Red wire : stop and LH turn
Term 6 Brown wire : stop and RH turn
Term 7 Yellow wire : auxillary (I use mine for back-up lights)

Hold the TRAILER plug with the notch at the bottom.Going clockwise the
order should be:
1 5 3 4 6 2 with the one in the center being 7

This info is from the literature that came with the 7 way plug I bought
for my truck.
ood Luck

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2000 19:22:29 -0700
From: Marv & Marge lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Trailer Wiring Question

Nick Ranone yahoo.com> wrote:
> I am borrowing a trailer from a friend. It will be the first time I tow.
> Anyone know what the other three wires are?

Nick, see:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.rvweb.net/tech_lib/trailcn.html

and

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.marksrv.com/wiring.htm

-Marv-

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 23:07:04 -0500
Subject: Re: trailer wiring question
From: Paul M Radecki juno.com>

> From: "Nick Ranone" yahoo.com>
> Subject: trailer wiring question
> Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 23:42:50 -0600
>
> Howdy,
> I am borrowing a trailer from a friend. It will be the first time
> I tow.
> My truck had a 6 prong socket on the drop step bumper. The trailer
> has a 7
> prong RV plug. I looked and that seemed to be the "standard." I
> bought one
> and removed the old one. I got four wires figured out, turn, brake,
> reverse, and park. That covered one plug on the truck. The second
> plug has
> larger wires. One is switched hot. The other three I have no clue.
> One
> shows continuity, which might mean ground. I have learned thru bad
> experience that some switched hot leads read as ground until they go
> hot,
> then you short out. Anyone know what the other three wires are?
> Brakes
> maybe. I have a 91 F150.
> Thanks
> Nick
>

Nick:
According to Haynes, your wires are as follows:

black/pink = back up lights
dark green = right turn
yellow = left turn
brown/white = tail/marker lights

white = ground
orange = hot
dark blue = electric brake controller
red/light green = electric brake controller

The only ones you really need are ground, tail/marker, and left and
right turn. If the trailer is equipped with electric brakes then you
will need to acquire an electric brake controller. This is a "black box"
that you wire under your dash, usually with four wires: hot, ground,
signal in from brake light circuit, and signal out to trailer. I don't
know why there are two wires designated "electric brake controller"; I've
only ever used the blue one. These wires usually just run the length of
the truck and terminate without connecting to anything; this makes
accessory wiring ever so much easier if you know where both ends of the
wire are!
Good luck, and feel free to email me off-list if you have any more
questions.

Paul Radecki
lordjanusz juno.com
'94 F150
'73 F100
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: LGRanch aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 08:02:31 EDT
Subject: shorty headers

I have been installing a set of Pacesetter shorty headers on my 90 full
Bronco. I am finding that this "simple" task is taking about 24 actual
working hours. Nothing quite fits and connecting things like the plenum
support is a challenge. The headers do not allow for anything but small (3/8)
headed bolts.

Has anyone else had a similar experience????

------------------------------

From: "Jamie Fox" connect.ab.ca>
Subject: 302 questions
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 10:20:58 -0600

Gents:

I'm new to the list and also to owning a Ford V8. I've got some experience with Ford Straight 6's only. I've just acquired an '89 F150 XLT with the 302 and overdrive trans. The truck has 476,000 kilometres on it with 150,000 on the trans. It runs fine - no smoke from the pipe and all that's broken is a driver side power window motor.

I have a few questions for those who've done it -

Oil pressure is low on the gauge. Where do I get a mechanical pressure from, the sender? If so, where is the sender? I'm thinking if mechanical pressure is ok, it's sender and/or gauge problem. Any tests I can do?

If the Oil Pressure is a real problem (let's see, 476,000 K won't wear out main bearings will it?), can I change main bearings in the truck or do I have to pull the motor?

Can the window motors be changed? I had a look yesterday and it's a pretty small space to work in the door. The winder mechanism is 'riveted' on with those big ugly lookin' 3 legged fasteners - drill 'em out?

Thanks in advance from someone yet to get a shop manual. (today I hope). What's the recommended manual for the new guy?

Jamie


Jamie Fox
molder "NO_SPAM_REMOVE"connect.ab.ca

Jamie Fox
molder connect.ab.ca


------------------------------

From: "Skerrett, Michael" adstii.com>
Subject: Re: warm running 300 UPDATE
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 18:10:53 -0400

> On Mon, 26 Jun 2000 19:10:50 -0500 (CDT), David Trowbridge asked:
>
> ....well guys, i finally had enough time the other day to change out my
> stat on my truck....
>
> Are you overlooking the obvious by not attaching a real water temperature
> indicator to the engine? By using the un-calibrated dash indicator you
> may not really have an overheat problem. Connect a temperature gauge and
> run your truck the same way you did after you changed the thermostat.
> Recording the actual water temperatures will enable you to better
> determine if you have an overheat condition. If you do not then you will
> also be able to now associate real temperature with the letters on your
> dash indicator. If the engine is really running hot and you have done all
> you say to cure the problem, write back and give us another chance to
> assist. You shouldn't worry too much unless (with a 195 thermostat) the
> temperature stays above about 230 f. and won't return closer to 200
> during steady driving at over 35-40 mph. with little or no load in your
> truck.
>
> Michael S. in Central FL.

------------------------------

From: "Skerrett, Michael" adstii.com>
Subject: Re: AC hiss
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 18:11:59 -0400


> The other day I started my truck and turned on the AC...
>
> Please help, It's starting to get real hot here in New England...
>
> Nelson,
>
> It doesn't sound like you have the inclination nor the equipment to repair
> this yourself. Sounds to me like a seal failed or you have a bad hose on
> the high pressure side. Running the compressor without coolant will cause
> it to fail in short order (the lubricant travels around the system with
> the coolant gasses). Best thing to do is keep the A/C off and get your
> truck to a reputable shop to have them find and fix the leak and recharge
> the system. Continuing to run the system until failure will cost
> significantly more than getting it repaired now.
>
> Its still not as hot where you are as it is where some of on the list
> live. The swamp here is burning around me....
>
> Michael S. in Central FL.
>

------------------------------

From: LGRanch aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 21:45:03 EDT
Subject: Re: 302 questions

let see I have done a few of those jobs before.

First the window motor is common. Yes you have to drill out the rivets.
Replace them with bolts.

A low oil pressure gauge reading is also common. Double check the oil
pressure at the motor. If the pressure is ok then ignore the gauge. Most of
the time the gauge problem is a bad ground. Ground the sending unit with a
separate wire. If this does not work or the oil pressure is really low. I
would not advise "fixing" the problem with the motor in the truck.

------------------------------....


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