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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Wed, 14 Jun 2000 11:47:37 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 11:47:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #113
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------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Tue, 13 Jun 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 113

In This Issue:
High-Altitude Driving
Re: warm running 300
Re: High-Altitude Driving
Re: Proper Fuel Pressure
Re: Drivetrain upgrades, please help!!
Re: Ignition switch acting "funny"
Re: 4x4 front bearing repack
Re: I need a little help
Q2 - alternators
Q3 - hypo engine or not?
Q1 - blinking airbag light
Re: Q1 - blinking airbag light
Q4 - fuel sender unit question
Re: Q4 - fuel sender unit question
Re: Q3 - hypo engine or not?
Re: warm running 300
Re: warm running 300
Re: Q4 - fuel sender unit question
Re: Drivetrain upgrades, please help!!
Re: 4x4 front bearing repack
Re: new tires
Emissions test
Re: Proper Fuel Pressure
Re: Proper Fuel Pressure
Re: Q3 - hypo engine or not?
Re: Emissions test
Re: Q3 - hypo engine or not?
Re: Proper Fuel Pressure
Re: Q3 - hypo engine or not?
Re: Proper Fuel Pressure
Re: Stumble, Lack of fuel?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Wood, Steve" intel.com>
Subject: High-Altitude Driving
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 11:53:49 -0700

This summer we're planning a trip to Estes Park in Colorado, pulling our
9000 lb. travel trailer. The "Scenic Route" takes me over some pretty high
passes; some are in the 11000-foot range. I've noticed that my power drops
off fairly fast once I get over about 7000 feet, even with 92-octane, a
Hypertech chip, headers and a Borla exhaust system. Does the PSD act the
same way (I've been thinking about getting one)? Are there any
"high-altitude" gas or diesel additives which help out?

Stephen Wood
1995 F-350 Crew Cab Long Bed 460 "Mr. Thirsty"


------------------------------

From: "Skerrett, Michael" adstii.com>
Subject: Re: warm running 300
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 14:54:40 -0400

I missed the year of your truck but on my '92, 302 if I do not have a 190
thermostat in the system mine will run too rich. The computer will change
the time on the injectors based on a lot of things, one of the more
important things is engine (coolant) temperature. What you are seeing is
probably the thermostat opening at 160 and as you sit in traffic the
radiator is less efficient due to air flow (and a wide open thermostat) and
the temperature rises. This is normal and as long as you do not overheat it
will cool again as you get airflow across the fins. With mine at 190 from
a cold start the temperature will rise to about the middle of the range and
stay there, traffic or not. I don't carry a large load or tow anything but
whenever the temperature goes much higher I have a problem that needs to be
looked into. After 145K miles, one water pump, 2 thermostats, 2 hose
changes and a bunch of coolant flushes it still runs great and at a steady
temperature. I tried the 160 years ago thinking cooler was better, but
when the mileage went below 10 MPG and the oxygen sensor got fouled I
switched back.

Anyone know a rain dance? Dodging the fires in Central FL.


------------------------------

From: soffiler centraltools.com
Subject: Re: High-Altitude Driving
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 15:07:17 -0400

No, the PSD won't loose power at altitude. It is turbocharged, and the
basic action of the turbo is to pressurize the intake manifold which
compensates for loss of atmospheric pressure at altitude.

I don't know of any "high altitude" fuel additives. The problem is the air
(lack thereof), not the fuel.

Given the need to pull 9000lb up to 11,000ft I would DEFINITELY want a PSD,
no question in my mind.


Steve Offiler
soffiler centraltools.com
'97 F250HD XL 4x4, 351, E40D, 4.10's

> -----Original Message-----
> From: 80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:80-96-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Wood, Steve
> Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 2:54 PM
> To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject: [80-96-list] High-Altitude Driving
>
>
> This summer we're planning a trip to Estes Park in Colorado,
> pulling our
> 9000 lb. travel trailer. The "Scenic Route" takes me over
> some pretty high
> passes; some are in the 11000-foot range. I've noticed that
> my power drops
> off fairly fast once I get over about 7000 feet, even with
> 92-octane, a
> Hypertech chip, headers and a Borla exhaust system. Does the
> PSD act the
> same way (I've been thinking about getting one)? Are there any
> "high-altitude" gas or diesel additives which help out?
>
> Stephen Wood
> 1995 F-350 Crew Cab Long Bed 460 "Mr. Thirsty"
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 12:41:34 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Proper Fuel Pressure

Hey Chris,
aka Bronco friend.

Stock (19lb) injectors are running at about 30-35 psi already. If the the 30
lb injectors at 31-32 psi is fouling plugs. You may have too much injector
for the setup you are running.
Still got the stock ones sitting around? Give them a try.

Bob


chris hinckley wrote:

> What would you recommend for fuel pressure on a 393 stroker running 30lbs
> injectors. I'm currently at 32 psi with vacuum. i have been told to
> drop the pressure about 1 or 2 psi to help with a rich condition. Any
> thoughts will be appreciated.
>
> Chris H
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

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http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311
86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"



------------------------------

From: "Dave Resch" sybase.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 13:44:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Drivetrain upgrades, please help!!

>From: "Kyle Goley" hotmail.com>
>Subject: Drivetrain upgrades, please help!!
>
>I drive a '88 F-150 4X4. I has the 5.0 liter fuel
>injected 302 small block. I have an automatic
>but I'm not sure which one it is
>
>snip
>
>I have a Ford 6.6 liter carbeurated 400 Big
>Block V8 engine and a 4 speed manual
>tranny that bolts up to the 6.6 litre. I'm
>planning on swapping in the 400 and the
>4 speed in place of my current 302 and
>automatic. What all will I have to do to
>make this work?!?

Yo Kyle:

You know that this conversion will never pass emissions tests, so I hope you
live in a place w/ no testing. Don't get me wrong, I love the 400 M-block
engine, but you are taking a huge step backwards in technology. Exactly why are
you interested in this particular conversion?

One of the biggest hurdles I can foresee in your proposed swap is the clutch
itself. Along w/ the usual conversion hassles of going from automatic to
manual, you'll have to come up w/ some customized clutch linkage because the
manual tranny trucks of your vintage (post-'82) use hydraulic clutches, while
the M-block used a mechanical clutch. You might be able to adapt a hydraulic
clutch (probably requiring bell housing modifications) and you might be able to
fab up a cable system (probably easier than the hydraulic solution) to get it to
work in your truck. The pedal bracket where the clutch lever mounts inside the
cab on your truck is not compatible w/ the OEM mechanical clutch used on the
M-blocks, and your truck's firewall is not compatible w/ the pedal bracket from
the pre'82 mechanical clutch linkage.

You'll also need motor mounts, which you might be able to get from a 1980-82
truck, if the frames didn't change much after 1986. You'll need pre-EFI fuel
tanks w/out the internal pumps.

>Please help me, I have to make this happen
>and soon! I thank y'all in advance.

This is not going to happen fast, unless you have excellent fabrication skills
and the proper tools (or access to those skills and money is no object). There
are so many modifications and custom fabrications required for this conversion
that it will be difficult.

Personally, I would recommend that you convert to an engine that was available
in the model year of your truck (i.e., a 351W or a 460) because then you can get
OEM parts that fit your truck right out of the box w/ a lot less major
customizing. I'd be glad to give you more info if you really (really!) want to
go through w/ this.

Good luck.

Dave R (M-block devotee)



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 06:42:09 +1000
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: Ignition switch acting "funny"



Undocumented safety feature ?? ...... ;-))

.... Still havin' fun in a Ford .....

regards

Les
Lost in the land of OZ

chuck sanborn wrote:
>
> At 09:50 PM 6/12/00 -0400, you wrote:
>
> >Chuck,
> >Sounds like the neutral safety switch. The old one is still connected to the
> >collar and it slips around. Sound right guys?
> >Later,
> >Wayne Foy
>
> Neutral safety switch on a 3 speed...?
> Chuck
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 14:21:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bill Wagner hh.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: 4x4 front bearing repack


Hi, I have a question about a 94 F150 4x4 300ci 5-speed:

I bought the thing last year, and promptly discovered it needed over $1000
in new front bearings, half-shafts, seals and the like. Anyway, I got it
all done properly, but I want to keep repacking it so that I don't have
such a huge expense again. I've put 36,000km on it (20,000 miles), so I
figure it's time to do the repack.

So, oh great Ford gurus, how do I do it?

My skills aren't bad, as I've done stuff like replace a clutch, rear axle
seals, and once the head gaskets on my boss' 1988 F350 crewcab 351 C-6
(well, it's still running anyway), so I don't fear the unknown too much.

I just need to know whether there are any tricks, what sort of parts are
required, and whether it's worth investing in the factory manual (the
Haynes is damn near useless for this) and/or a parts washer.


Bill in Prince George, British Columbia




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 08:33:23 +1000
From: les williams cyber.net.au>
Subject: Re: I need a little help


Hi Chris

Geez, Matey - you sound like your up the creek without a paddle !!!

This list does have a resident technical oil expert, Mike, so I'll leave
any comments for him to make, but the consumption - 'tons' is your
quote.
Could you be a little more precise ? Please ?
I appreciate a new engine can burn a tad more than usual, but that's
all.
You comment on the octane fuel 'cocktail mixture' you are feeding the
engine - What octane fuel have you designed the engine to run on ? this
in turn affects the timing curve. If you are 'using tons' of oil, and
there are only two ways to use oil, leak it, or burn it and burning it,
by what ever method it's getting into the combustion chamber, will
affect the octane rating of the fuel, which affects the timing ... etc,
etc.

Also this list has a resident ignition guru, nephew Phred, he may have
some words of advise on the O2 etc.

You may feel your between two worlds, but your still in one camp, the
Ford camp, I see no reference to any Chebby parts in you post !! ;-))

regards

Les
Lost in the land of OZ - for the new and the 'confused'- OZ is
Australia, the island to the left of New Zealand.

chris hinckley wrote:
>
> hi all,
>
> i know i'm but i need to use you, or at least your collective knowledge.
> my bronco is a bit of a hybrid with regard to the engine. The engine is
> basically a stroked lightning motor. I just completed (less than 500
> miles) a rebuild of the 92 bronco. it's a 92 block (hydraulics) .030
> over and stroked to 393. I converted from speed density to mass air using
> the FMS mas air conversion kit (new eec, 30lb injtrs, & 80mm sensor),
> gt40 ci heads, and gt40 upper & lower intakes. i have many other parts
> as well, but i have a couple issues that i'm solicitating ideas on, here
> goes.
>
> 1 - my oil is turning black quickly. this tells me that i have an issue
> with my PCV system. I have a line from the oil fill neck to atmosphere
> (between the filter and throttle body), two lines tee from the PCV in the
> rear of the lower intake to the upper plenum, the passenger side valve
> cover (FMS tall alum) has a port for a breather or PCV grommet. I have
> had the port on the passenger side valve cover covered, and now open. for
> those of you knowledgeable with PCV systems and the gt40 setup, does my
> system make sense?
>
> 2 - I'm using tons of oil. keep in mind that the pistons & rings are new
> (pistons are aries, rings are speed pro). I had a bi-cut done on the
> gt40's valve seats, and had the manley' valves refaced. All cylinders
> have excellent compression 210 - 220 for all. I'm getting a noticeable
> plume on start up, but not much after that, unless i get on it. But i'm
> not seeing enough come out the pipe to account for all i'm feeding it.
> could the assumed problem with the PCV system create a high oil
> consumption? i'm going to change the valve stem seals on #4 tomorrow.
> i'm hoping this is the issue with blues.
>
> 3 - I also seem to be running fat. are there any recommendations on how
> to lean it out. I have it advanced as far as I can go and run premium.
> I did run a mix of 80% of 93 & 20% of 112. this seemed to help a bit, but
> is there a way to adjust or tune the air/fuel mixture without having to
> get a complete custom eec tune? Might the o2 sensor cause this problem?
>
> I'm on the SVT-Lighnting list, as well as the big bronco list. i'm kind
> of caught in the middle of the two worlds. any input will be much
> appreciated.
>
> thanks much,
> chris h
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

------------------------------

From: kb9odg.mark juno.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 18:01:02 -0500
Subject: Q2 - alternators

I've got an alternator off an '88 Crown Vic with a 5.0L that I'd like to
put on my F-150 with a 300 six. Is this possible? Is it worth it?

- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
'66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
tires ...
with an '88 5.0L and AOD waiting to go in!
'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, straight pipe ...
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: kb9odg.mark juno.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 18:03:01 -0500
Subject: Q3 - hypo engine or not?

Ok, how would one determine whether or not an engine (5.0L) is a hypo
engine or not? I'm trying to rebuild one and Napa needs to know which
engine it is. How can I tell? Thanks for all the help !!!!

- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
'66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
tires ...
with an '88 5.0L and AOD waiting to go in!
'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, straight pipe ...
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: kb9odg.mark juno.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:57:24 -0500
Subject: Q1 - blinking airbag light

Ok, the truck is an early 90's F-150 4x2 with the 5.0L and auto. The
airbag light blinks in a pattern. It flashes three times, pauses, and
then flashes two more times. It then repeats this the entire time I'm
driving. This is in the truck at work, and I've noticed that the same
thing happens in at least one of our vans too. What does this mean?

- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
'66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
tires ...
with an '88 5.0L and AOD waiting to go in!
'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, straight pipe ...
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 19:18:19 -0400
From: flagship worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Q1 - blinking airbag light

Mark,
This is the dreaded "clock spring" code. The clock spring is a device
which allows the horn and cruise control signals to travel from the
steering wheel to the components even though the steering wheel turns.
You may find the horn and cruise does not work or works intermittently.
To fix it you must remove the steering wheel and air bag. It's
relatively easy and the part is just over $100 as I recall. Good luck.

Emil



kb9odg.mark juno.com wrote:
>
> Ok, the truck is an early 90's F-150 4x2 with the 5.0L and auto. The
> airbag light blinks in a pattern. It flashes three times, pauses, and
> then flashes two more times. It then repeats this the entire time I'm
> driving. This is in the truck at work, and I've noticed that the same
> thing happens in at least one of our vans too. What does this mean?
>
> - Mark Reimers KB9ODG
> '66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
> tires ...
> with an '88 5.0L and AOD waiting to go in!
> '87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, straight pipe ...
> ________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

------------------------------

From: kb9odg.mark juno.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 18:40:11 -0500
Subject: Q4 - fuel sender unit question

I forgot my last question. My gas guage really doesn't like to go down
to the E side of things. It will go down, then jump back up, and gown
down a little, jump really high, and do that the entire time. What I'd
like to know is what will the guage do if the wires are shorted together
vs. what would the guage to if the wires were open circuited?

It does this for both tanks, but what is wierd is that the rear tank,
when full, reads at the F where it should. HOWEVER, the front tank, when
full, reads pegged. And then as the level goes down, they behave as
described above. The needle always goes up, never down. Oh, I did put
an new gas tank on the rear last year, but didn't do anything about the
sender, should I have?

- Mark Reimers KB9ODG
'66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
tires ...
with an '88 5.0L and AOD waiting to go in!
'87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, straight pipe ...
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 16:58:39 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Q4 - fuel sender unit question

Yep, sounds more like the sender if it reads differently on front or back.

Bob


kb9odg.mark juno.com wrote:

> I forgot my last question. My gas guage really doesn't like to go down
> to the E side of things. It will go down, then jump back up, and gown
> down a little, jump really high, and do that the entire time. What I'd
> like to know is what will the guage do if the wires are shorted together
> vs. what would the guage to if the wires were open circuited?
>
> It does this for both tanks, but what is wierd is that the rear tank,
> when full, reads at the F where it should. HOWEVER, the front tank, when
> full, reads pegged. And then as the level goes down, they behave as
> described above. The needle always goes up, never down. Oh, I did put
> an new gas tank on the rear last year, but didn't do anything about the
> sender, should I have?
>
> - Mark Reimers KB9ODG
> '66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
> tires ...
> with an '88 5.0L and AOD waiting to go in!
> '87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, straight pipe ...
> ________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

--
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311
86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 16:59:44 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Q3 - hypo engine or not?

Easiest way is firing order. The 302 HO have same sequence as 351W motors.

The standard 302 does not.

Bob


kb9odg.mark juno.com wrote:

> Ok, how would one determine whether or not an engine (5.0L) is a hypo
> engine or not? I'm trying to rebuild one and Napa needs to know which
> engine it is. How can I tell? Thanks for all the help !!!!
>
> - Mark Reimers KB9ODG
> '66 Bronco 170 I-6, 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35"
> tires ...
> with an '88 5.0L and AOD waiting to go in!
> '87 F-150 XLT 4x2 300 I-6, 4-speed, straight pipe ...
> ________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

--
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311
86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"



------------------------------

From: DTrowbridge webtv.net (David Trowbridge)
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 19:19:58 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: warm running 300

the radiator, hoses, water pump, stat, and fan clutch have all been
replaced within the last 4,000 miles along with the complete motor and
tranny. the radiator looks like it is a 2 row, it ain't very thick. i
have no other coolers in between the condensor and radiator, yet. and
the electric fan on the condensor is a pusher. the fan shroud had been
damaged, but with a little engineering(zip ties, electric tape and
silicon, don't ask!) is in good shape. i think i will follow Chucks
advice and reinstall the factory 190 degree stat. from there i think
i'm gonna look for a BIG radiator so when i start towin my car to races,
the truck don't overheat.

David
85 F-150 300 I6


------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 20:43:28 EDT
Subject: Re: warm running 300


<< My understanding of this is (and anyone feel free to correct me) is that
yes, the 160 will open sooner....and stay WIDE open all the time, giving the
coolant no "cool down" time in the radiator. It just keeps on flowing
straight through. >>

No need to correct you Chuck, your theory of cooling holds water (pun
intended). The 160 degree thermostat may (or may not) be the problem with
David's overheating F-150. The discussions on correct thermostats have been
covered several times on this list, but let me repeat one important fact:
using the incorrect temperature thermostat can have MANY adverse effects.
Thermostats affect drivability and engine life. If you have an engine running
hot, find the cause and repair it instead of trying to put a band-aid on the
symptom. Try a block check kit to see if you have any signs of combustion in
the coolant.
Alex

------------------------------

From: MRStace84aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 21:16:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Q4 - fuel sender unit question

If I remeber correctly from working on an 87 that we have is that with the
circuit open the gauge will read full (Actually pegged, way past the F on the
gauge in the truck). The problem we had on that truck was that the
conductors on the actual resistor board in the sending unit were worn off.
The guage on that truck read full untill you got to about an eigth (once
there was actually resistance across the leads of the sending unit.) of a
tank, then would drop quickly.


Stacy Fisher
84 F150 4x4
98 Ranger XLT 4x4

In a message dated 6/13/00 7:49:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
kb9odg.markjuno.com writes:

<< forgot my last question. My gas guage really doesn't like to go down
to the E side of things. It will go down, then jump back up, and gown
down a little, jump really high, and do that the entire time. What I'd
like to know is what will the guage do if the wires are shorted together
vs. what would the guage to if the wires were open circuited?

It does this for both tanks, but what is wierd is that the rear tank,
when full, reads at the F where it should. HOWEVER, the front tank, when
full, reads pegged. And then as the level goes down, they behave as
described above. The needle always goes up, never down. Oh, I did put
an new gas tank on the rear last year, but didn't do anything about the
sender, should I have? >>

------------------------------

From: "Kyle Goley" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Drivetrain upgrades, please help!!
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 21:02:40 CDT


Thank you sooo much for replying!! I was going to get the 351W, but a buddy
of mine had the 400 and the 4 speed and he sold them both to me for $75. The
motor needs to be rebuilt of course, as does the tranny. I was hoping this
wouldn't be extremely hard, but it sounds like it is. If you don't mind, I
could use all the info and or help you can provide!! Money is an object, and
I need the engine in the truck ASAP. Thank you again for your help, I can
use all of it I can get!!

Kyle Goley
________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 19:40:41 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: 4x4 front bearing repack

You'll need the hub wrench to get the locking nut off. If you lay things out
the way you take it out, it's a pretty simple task. There is a retainer ring
inside the hub, about 1/4" inside. It's there, trust me. A scratch awl and a
straight tip screw driver, or the little dental probe tools will make quick
work of it. Make sure you note how the lock nuts come out, the washers are
keyed so they line up a specific way. You'll need a torque wrench to finish
the task.

A parts cleaner is not really required. I rinse them off in a little gas in a
small bucket, dry them and then pack them using the heel of the hand.


Bob


Bill Wagner wrote:

> Hi, I have a question about a 94 F150 4x4 300ci 5-speed:
>
> I bought the thing last year, and promptly discovered it needed over $1000
> in new front bearings, half-shafts, seals and the like. Anyway, I got it
> all done properly, but I want to keep repacking it so that I don't have
> such a huge expense again. I've put 36,000km on it (20,000 miles), so I
> figure it's time to do the repack.
>
> So, oh great Ford gurus, how do I do it?
>
> My skills aren't bad, as I've done stuff like replace a clutch, rear axle
> seals, and once the head gaskets on my boss' 1988 F350 crewcab 351 C-6
> (well, it's still running anyway), so I don't fear the unknown too much.
>
> I just need to know whether there are any tricks, what sort of parts are
> required, and whether it's worth investing in the factory manual (the
> Haynes is damn near useless for this) and/or a parts washer.
>
> Bill in Prince George, British Columbia
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

--
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311
86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"



------------------------------

From: "big red" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: new tires
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 19:41:46 PDT

I remember reading in one of the 4x4 mags that 32x11.5 is the biggest
without any modifications. I can't say I've tried it since my trucks have
always had at least a 3" body lift in them. But I do remember seeing it once
or twice.
________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 23:37:25 EDT
Subject: Emissions test

Gang,
I got my truck smogged today and below are the readings
that it blew. Not too bad at all, considering the mods on it.

ASM Emissions Test Results:
Note: Standards vary with model year, vehicle type and vehicle weight.

Reading Allowable Result
HC-ppm 31 37 PASS
CO% 0.06 1.52 PASS
NO-ppm 362 1406 PASS
RPM 1548 100-2500 PASS
CO+CO2% 10.7 6.0 min PASS

Catalytic convertor PASS Gas Cap PASS

Later,
Wayne Foy
NLOC #484
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck
Atlanta GA

------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 23:37:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Proper Fuel Pressure

In a message dated 6/13/00 12:52:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
chink28juno.com writes:

<< What would you recommend for fuel pressure on a 393 stroker running 30lbs
injectors. I'm currently at 32 psi with vacuum. i have been told to
drop the pressure about 1 or 2 psi to help with a rich condition. Any
thoughts will be appreciated. >>

Chris,
You need to set your pressure WITHOUT the vaccuum line on. Then re-attatch
the line and see what it reads. I am running a 5.0 with 30 lbs and I am
running mine at 40 lbs no vac, so there has to be something else amiss with
your set up. Can you please let us know where your timing is set at, SPOUT
out of course, and what the voltage on your TPS is at. This may help me help
you.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 16:03:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Proper Fuel Pressure
From: chris hinckley juno.com>

hey bronco buddy,
the FMS mass air conversion kit i'm running is calibrated for the 30 lbs
injectors. but if all else fails i'll try a set of 24 lb ones.

thanks much,
chirs

On Tue, 13 Jun 2000 12:41:34 -0700 Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
writes:
> Hey Chris,
> aka Bronco friend.
>
> Stock (19lb) injectors are running at about 30-35 psi already. If
> the the 30
> lb injectors at 31-32 psi is fouling plugs. You may have too much
> injector
> for the setup you are running.
> Still got the stock ones sitting around? Give them a try.
>
> Bob
>
>
> chris hinckley wrote:
>
> > What would you recommend for fuel pressure on a 393 stroker
> running 30lbs
> > injectors. I'm currently at 32 psi with vacuum. i have been told
> to
> > drop the pressure about 1 or 2 psi to help with a rich condition.
> Any
> > thoughts will be appreciated.
> >
> > Chris H
> > ==========================================================
> > To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> > message.
>
> --
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311
> 86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>

------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 23:50:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Q3 - hypo engine or not?

In a message dated 6/13/00 7:59:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bobkennedyuswest.net writes:

<< The standard 302 does not. >>
Bob,
I have to differ with you. My 1994 5.0 is not considered an HO, but my firing
order is the same as the 351.
Later,
Wayne Foy
NLOC #484
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck
Atlanta GA

------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 23:58:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Emissions test

Gang,
On the allowable HC-ppm on my emissions test mail, that should have been 137
not 37.
Later,
Wayne Foy
NLOC #484
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck
Atlanta GA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 21:05:45 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Q3 - hypo engine or not?

That's because you are special Wayne.

I did say standard 302s not Wayne's 302s...;-)

Bob


FLR150aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 6/13/00 7:59:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> bobkennedyuswest.net writes:
>
> << The standard 302 does not. >>
> Bob,
> I have to differ with you. My 1994 5.0 is not considered an HO, but my firing
> order is the same as the 351.
> Later,
> Wayne Foy
> NLOC #484
> 94 Flareside SC
> 1999 Fun Ford Weekend
> Racing series
> #2 Top Truck
> Atlanta GA
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

--
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311
86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 21:09:48 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Proper Fuel Pressure

Good luck with it. Wayne mentioned a few other things, like running the
codes. Don't give up, It'll be hitting you soon.

Bob


chris hinckley wrote:

> hey bronco buddy,
> the FMS mass air conversion kit i'm running is calibrated for the 30 lbs
> injectors. but if all else fails i'll try a set of 24 lb ones.
>
> thanks much,
> chirs
>
> On Tue, 13 Jun 2000 12:41:34 -0700 Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
> writes:
> > Hey Chris,
> > aka Bronco friend.
> >
> > Stock (19lb) injectors are running at about 30-35 psi already. If
> > the the 30
> > lb injectors at 31-32 psi is fouling plugs. You may have too much
> > injector
> > for the setup you are running.
> > Still got the stock ones sitting around? Give them a try.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > chris hinckley wrote:
> >
> > > What would you recommend for fuel pressure on a 393 stroker
> > running 30lbs
> > > injectors. I'm currently at 32 psi with vacuum. i have been told
> > to
> > > drop the pressure about 1 or 2 psi to help with a rich condition.
> > Any
> > > thoughts will be appreciated.
> > >
> > > Chris H
> > > ==========================================================
> > > To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> > > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> > > message.
> >
> > --
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311
> > 86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"
> >
> >
> > ==========================================================
> > To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> > message.
> >
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.

--
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311
86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"



------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 00:09:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Q3 - hypo engine or not?

In a message dated 6/14/00 12:05:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bobkennedyuswest.net writes:

<< I did say standard 302s not Wayne's 302s...;-)
>>

Smarta$$..
:)
Later,
Wayne Foy
NLOC #484
94 Flareside SC
1999 Fun Ford Weekend
Racing series
#2 Top Truck
Atlanta GA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 10:29:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Proper Fuel Pressure
From: chris hinckley juno.com>

i'll keep at it. i can't figure out what's up with my code reader. it
doesn't seem to initiate the test, the sensors & relays do not cycle and
teh light and tone stay steady. just another opportunity to resolve an
issue.

chris

On Tue, 13 Jun 2000 21:09:48 -0700 Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
writes:
> Good luck with it. Wayne mentioned a few other things, like running
> the
> codes. Don't give up, It'll be hitting you soon.
>
> Bob
>
>
> chris hinckley wrote:
>
> > hey bronco buddy,
> > the FMS mass air conversion kit i'm running is calibrated for the
> 30 lbs
> > injectors. but if all else fails i'll try a set of 24 lb ones.
> >
> > thanks much,
> > chirs
> >
> > On Tue, 13 Jun 2000 12:41:34 -0700 Bob Kennedy
> uswest.net>
> > writes:
> > > Hey Chris,
> > > aka Bronco friend.
> > >
> > > Stock (19lb) injectors are running at about 30-35 psi already.
> If
> > > the the 30
> > > lb injectors at 31-32 psi is fouling plugs. You may have too
> much
> > > injector
> > > for the setup you are running.
> > > Still got the stock ones sitting around? Give them a try.
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > >
> > > chris hinckley wrote:
> > >
> > > > What would you recommend for fuel pressure on a 393 stroker
> > > running 30lbs
> > > > injectors. I'm currently at 32 psi with vacuum. i have been
> told
> > > to
> > > > drop the pressure about 1 or 2 psi to help with a rich
> condition.
> > > Any
> > > > thoughts will be appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Chris H
> > > > ==========================================================
> > > > To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> > > > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> > > > message.
> > >
> > > --
> > > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311
> > > 86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"
> > >
> > >
> > > ==========================================================
> > > To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> > > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> > > message.
> > >
> > ==========================================================
> > To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> > the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> > message.
>
> --
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=311
> 86XLT/5.0/AOD/8.8/D44 4.56 Detroit/EZ, 36x12.50x16.5, 6"/0"
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>

------------------------------

From: "Chris Mahaffey" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stumble, Lack of fuel?
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 09:46:20 PDT

Here's some more information about the problem I'm having. I drove my truck
to work again yesterday and I made it home without any problems, driving on
the front tank the whole way. When I got home I tried switching to the rear
tank and the idle slowed down some (I don't have a tach so I don't know how
much) and it started running rougher. I opened up the fuel caps on both
tanks but it didn't seem to make a difference, so I don't think it's a vent
issue, but thanks for the suggestion. I always like to check the small
things first, I just don't always think of all of them on my own. If I
switched back to the front tank it would idle faster and smoother.

I went and bought a fuel pressure gauge, and of course when I got home the
truck was running fine on both tanks, but I checked it anyway.

Front Rear
Engine off 55 40
Engine on,
vac on regulator 45 30-40 (It fluctuated alot on the gauge)
vac off regulator 55 35-40

Hold test 53 40 (after 5 min)

This is a 92 F150 with the 4.9L. I know these numbers indicate the rear
pump is weaker than the front. Does anyone know what the numbers should be?
Is the rear tank "good enough?" I don't think this truck has any valves
for switching tanks. It appears to be done just by the pumps. Is that
correct? (I traced the fuel lines and didn't see anything except a tee.)
Do the pumps have some sort of check valve in them? Is it an electric
solenoid or mechanical?

If the rear pump is going bad could that cause the truck not to run on the
front tank? If it is a fuel pump has anyone had luck with aftermarket
brands or should I go to the ford garage?

Could the problem be the fuel pressure regulator is getting stuck open
sometimes? Are they known to go bad? and how much do they cost?

Thanks
Chris
________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

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