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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Mon, 29 May 2000 22:28:15 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 22:28:15 -0400 (EDT)
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To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #100
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80-96-list Digest Mon, 29 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 100

In This Issue:
Temperature Sender Resistance Info
My new Lift Kit
Lifter ???'s
pitman arm
Re: Temperature Sender Resistance Info

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "John Watson" illnews.com.au>
Subject: Temperature Sender Resistance Info
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 09:40:29 +1000

Does anyone know of the resistance v's temperature values for a sender on a
81 Bronco 351 Cleveland, or where I could find that info, I want to check
the accuracy of my temp guage.


Thanks


John


------------------------------

From: "Nelson Vasconcelos" mindspring.com>
Subject: My new Lift Kit
Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 21:48:51 -0400

Hi Guys,
I just finished installing a 4" Skyjacker Class 2 lift kit on my truck
last weekend. It looks sweet and rides softer than before. The truck had a
3" body lift when I bought it and with the addition of this lift my truck is
jacked and level. I took pictures trough the whole thing and I'll scan them
in as soon as I can.

Nelson
89 F150 4x4, 300 I6, 5spd
Lifted w/33" Bfg A/T's


------------------------------

From: "Jim Kuhl" hotmail.com>
Subject: Lifter ???'s
Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 21:16:27 CDT

Hi all,

I have a 93 F-150 4x4 XLT SC 351 with 158,000 miles. I recently got this
truck from my dad when he made the purchase a a new Super Duty. The truck
just seems to have NO power and sounds as if it is always struggling to move
itself.

The motor has been making a ticking sound for some time now (like the last
year or so) when it was first started up in the morning or was cold. Now it
does it all the time hot or cold. It only makes this ticking sound when I am
appling power.
The question and theory that I have is whether or not the oil pump is
performing up to snuff. My understanding is that my truck has hydraulic
lifters which need oil pressure to operate correctly. Could my oil pump not
be providing enough pressure for the lifters which intern is letting them
bottom against the cam, and not opening my valves enough which is
restricting my engines power???? OR am I completely wrong and need to be
slapped for thinking up and typing such a thing???

Because our fords don't have nice real pressure gauges like the one in my
Mack, I was thinking that checking my trucks engine oil pressure would tell
me whether or not this may be my problem, providing this is problem.

Well thanks for listening to my ramblings, If I am way off base please send
me in the correct direction, I love my truck even if the ol girl is starting
to rust away from under me, but that is an entirely different e-mail.

Thanks

________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "big red" hotmail.com>
Subject: pitman arm
Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 19:40:49 PDT

Hi all. I got a 87 f-150 w/the 5.0. And no matter what I do I can not get
the pitman arm off. I need to rebuild my gear box so I need it off. I
pounded it, kicked it, pryed it and tried a puller on it. If I would have
had a torch I probably would've cut it. Any one have a good suggestion?
________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 22:25:12 -0500
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: Temperature Sender Resistance Info

At 09:40 30-05-00 +1000, you wrote:
>Does anyone know of the resistance v's temperature values for a sender on a
>81 Bronco 351 Cleveland, or where I could find that info, I want to check
>the accuracy of my temp guage.

There is a 2-point test procedure outlined in the shop manual. It does not
matter what engine you have. When you put a 10 ohn 10 watt ceramic resistor
in place of the sender, between sender wire and a good clean ground, you
should read within one needle width of the HOT line. When you put a 73 ohm
resistor in ther same place (instead of the 10 ohm resistor) you should
read within one needle width of the COLD line. It is a non-linear
relationship between these two points, and Ford does not tells us wht it is
(but I could probably figure it out for you, if it is really important to
you). A 73 ohm resistor is not a standard size. The easiest way to make
the required 73 ohm resistance is to twist a 100 ohm and a 270 ohm resistor
"in parallel" (that is, side to side).


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8


------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #100
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