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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Wed, 09 Feb 2000 11:52:31 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 11:52:31 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V2000 #1
Precedence: bulk

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------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Tue, 08 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 001

In This Issue:
E4OD to a C6
Re: Loosing power with more gas
Re: Oil In Air Filter--Mine Too!
Re: '90 F-150 Heater Core
Re: E4OD to a C6
Re: 4X2
Re: '90 F-150 Heater Core
Welcome/F.E.
Re: Welcome/F.E.
Trans fluid
Re: 80-96-list Digest V1 #2004
camber questions
Re: F-150 Questions
Test
Re: Gary's Message
Re: camber questions
Bad Alternator
- Bad Alternator
Re: HELP! Dead Truck!
Re: '90 F-150 Heater Core
Re: '90 F-150 Heater Core
Re: '90 F-150 Heater Core
Bad Alternator
Re: F-150 Questions
300 I-6 intake/ carb question.
Re: '90 F-150 Heater Core, midgets...
Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come..
PCV Valve question
Re: - Bad Alternator
Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come..
Re: Engine Swap
Re: E4OD to a C6
Saginaw pump on M block fords
Vin decoders??
Re: camber questions
Re: Welcome, puny 302's :-)
Re: E4OD to a C6
Brake Pads & Wheel Bearings
Re: Vin Decoding
Re: 300 I-6 intake/ carb question.
Re: 300 I-6 intake/ carb question.
Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come..

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 23:28:21 -0500
From: Scott Golly home.com>
Subject: E4OD to a C6

Gentlemen,

I have done just about everything to my truck that I can but replace the
tranny. So here I go!! Has anybody swapped the E4OD for a C6 (I know I
loose the OD). I have the Speed density computer and a 1990 5.8L engine
in a 4x4. i want more power to the wheels and the E4OD is limiting me.
I have a C6 with a transfer case. I know it will bolt right up but what
about the computer???

Scott
FPEGolly home.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 22:08:42 -0600
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: Loosing power with more gas

I agree, sounds like it's running out of fuel. Before jumping into the fuel
pump, check for clogged fuel filter(s).

At 09:14 08/02/00 -0500, you wrote:
>This is actually an indication of poor mixture/timing not engine capability.
>An engine will pull hard until it reaches it's limit but at that point it
>will continue pulling if all other factors are working correctly, it just
>won't accellerate any more. My guess is that it is leaning out which may be
>an indication of a failing high pressure pump or some other sensor failure
>which is affecting the mixture.
>
>On a carbed engine it would almost certainly be a lean mixture problem. It
>slows down because you are letting in more air than it can accomodate so
>leans out. When you back off the throttle you reduce the air back to a
>level the fuel delivery system can accomodate.....for what ever reason. I'm
>not an EFI guy but the principles are about the same in this case I would
>think?
>

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 22:24:33 -0600
From: Jim Cannon gtalumni.org>
Subject: Re: Oil In Air Filter--Mine Too!

At 17:02 06/02/00 EST, you wrote:
>There are about 15 guys I know (including me) having this same problem with
>the same engine. I've changed everything in the crankcase system and
nothing
>has helped. I've also replaced every vacuum line, ensured the exhaust
system
>is clear, and replaced the intake/exhaust gasket. All to no avail. I've
>done the compression check and I'm good on all six cylinders. If anybody
out
>there has any new ideas I'd appreciate hearing them.

I had a thought about this today, but have not had time to investigate on
my I-6... It could be an indication of a resticted exhaust system
(partially plugged cat converter or muffler). At wider throttle openings
and higher RPM, when you try to push a lot through the exhaust system, the
manifold vacuum will really drop off with high back pressure on the
exhaust. You need the vacuum to pull the vapors and blow-by out of the
crankcase. If the vacuum is not there, it will come out the filler vent.

Check it out with a vacuum guage while you drive, under load and at higher
RPM. Let me know what you find.




Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8

------------------------------

From: SlamedF150 aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 23:31:07 EST
Subject: Re: '90 F-150 Heater Core

HEY MAN I REPLACED IT ON MY F-150. ITS NOT BAD AT ALL. ILL TELL U HOW TO DOIT

-REMOVE CONTENTS OUT OF GLOVE BOX AND TAKE THE 2 PLASTIC STRAPS THAT HOLD IT
UP RIGHT OUT.

-SWING THE BOX DOWN AND TAKE OUT THE 2 OR 4 SCREWS THAT HOLD IT IN PLACE.

-NOW U CAN CLEARLY SEE THE CORE BOX

-THERE IS A CABLE IN THE FRONT OF THE BOX THAT NEEDS TO BE TAKEN OUT OF THE
CLIP AND MOVED ASIDE.

-THERE IS 6 SCREWS IN THE CORE COVER IT SELF. NOTE U WILL NEED ALL SORTS OF
EXTINCTION'S AND RACHETS AND STUFF

-THEN POP THE HOOD AND REMOVE THE HEATER CORE HOSES. THESE MITE BE A LITTLE
OLD SO THEY MIGHT NOT COME RIGHT OFF. IF NOT U. CAN CUT THEM AND RE USE, OR
BUY NEW ONES.

- THEN GO BACK TO THE BOX AND SEE ABOUT TAKING OUT THE 2 OR 4 SCREWS THAT
HOLD THE CORE ITSELF.

-THE CORE SHOULD COME OUT WITH A LITTLE TURNING OF THE CORE

-THAT'S IT. REPLACE AND TAKEN OUT

- BE SURE NOT TO KINK THE NEW CORES HARD LINES. THEY AND KINDA FRAGILE.

CHRIS

------------------------------

From: SlamedF150 aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 23:32:27 EST
Subject: Re: E4OD to a C6

SHOULD BE NO PROB EXP FOR REVERSE LIGHTS

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 20:35:44 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: 4X2

Thanks Bob...I can live with that explanation. Just not nearly
as "macho" as I was hoping for. Then again, it is my wifes
truck.
Chuck

At 07:16 PM 2/8/00 -0800, you wrote:
>When the term 4X4 was popularized, the term 4X2 followed
>shortly to again differentiate between a 4WD and a 2WD rig.
>
>
>Bob


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 20:43:58 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: '90 F-150 Heater Core

Not sure about your '90, but on my '86 the access to it hides behind the
glove box.

Bob


Scott Golly wrote:

> Howdy list:
>
> After several months of being off of the list due to a job change, I am
> back and have a question. I have a 1990 XLT Lariat 4x4 with the 5.8 and
> my heater core is clogged. I can hear the water dribbling into it and
> it burbling which is a sign of a clogged inlet. has anyone replaced
> this before. I have A/C so it can't come out through the hood. the core
> is only 20 bucks but it looks like a nasty job!!
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> FPEgolly home.com
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
> message.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 20:41:48 -0800
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Welcome/F.E.

>Well, I finally graduated to this list.
Welcome aboard Gary.Saw your name and thought the new server posted you
to the wrong list.

>After rusting away on the 61-79 list for about 4 years I have >purchased a 93 Aerostar which some may consider a wagon but I'm >calling it a truck so I can be on this list :-)

It is definatly not a car so it must be a truck right?
Might want to give the small list a try too,lots if good 4.0 info over
there.

>And what do you mean by PUNY 302? MY 5.0 is putting out almost 430 HP >to the flywheel...not too puny I would say!!! =)

Didn't think that puny comment would get too far without a response:)

>Does anyone know what F.E stands for on a Ford engine?

FEar.....Actually I believe it stands for Ford/Edsel.Seriously...
Gives you some idea how long it was around.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 20:53:53 -0800
From: chuck sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Welcome/F.E.

At 08:41 PM 2/8/00 -0800, you wrote:
>Actually I believe it stands for Ford/Edsel.Seriously

Yep....




Chuck Sanborn FCA# 07175
Torrance, CA
1964 Falcon Sprint, 289 w/351W heads, etc
86 F150 300 cu in six banger (Hers)


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 21:14:07 -0800
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Trans fluid

>The Haynes manual mentions fluid coming from the vent being a sign of >over filling. I will be changing the fluid and filter. Seems like an >extra transmission cooler might be a good idea also.

Sounds like it is over full.
For towing get a very large cooler and while you are at a trrans. temp
gauge is a good idea

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 23:49:41 -0600
From: Tom Wiggins earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 80-96-list Digest V1 #2004

Tom writes; I ran into the same problem with my new 87 6.9 several weeks ago and after going thru hell with it dying on me, I learned that it is sucking air in to the system. I dropped the front tank and it was clean, check the transfer valve, it was ok. I have noticed the fuel line next to the frame rail where the plastic line is
shrinked to the steel line is wet. I suspect that air is being sucked in at ths point. I carried a valve core removal tool and would remove the core when it quit me on the road. Then I would crank the engine by jumping the solenoid on the right fender well untill the fuel started coming thru, install the valve core and presto it would
start right up. I have been told that the water seperator might be the cause of a air leak. I'm going to get rid of the diesel because of rising cost of fuel. I'm going to propane .90 gallon with the road tax included. You might try putting a gallon on regular gas in your fuel to help with the gelling problem. I hope this helps, Tom
From: "Casey R. Vandor" yahoo.com>
Subject: HELP! Dead Truck!

I just bought an '88 F-250 two weeks ago. It has the 7.3 diesel in it. Right
after buying it, the temp was down to about -10 and it quit on me running down
the road. I thought it was gelled up since I hadn't burned any fuel and put
any disel 1 in it yet. I had to have it towed, and I thought I would have the
shop take a look at it. The glow plug controller was bad and one glow plug
was bad. I picked it up today (temp is like 10 degrees and the fuel is diesel
#2 with conditioner) and it choked on me again. I will be driving down the
road and it dies, it won't restart or have any hint of restarting. Any ideas,
suggestions, hints?

Thanks,

=====
Casey Vandor
'88 Ford F-250 4x4 dsl
'77 Jeep CJ5


------------------------------

From: "Phil & Debi" stargate.net>
Subject: camber questions
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 00:59:53 -0500


I took my 91 F150 4x4 in for a front end alignment and they couldnt do it, they said I needed a camber kit. They couldnt seem to answer my questions about it. Is it needed because there is wear somewhere in the front end? Wouldn't I be better off to fix what the problem is rather than put a camber kit in to align it?

Phil Beattie
66 F100
70 F100
79 F250 4x4
91 F150 4x4
www.geocities.com/imstobu


------------------------------

Subject: Re: F-150 Questions
From: John A Musolino juno.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 01:23:16 EST

Message-ID: <20000209.012104.15871.0.moose135juno.com>
References: <200002090126.UAA01054ford-trucks.com>
X-Mailer: Juno 1.49
X-Juno-Line-Breaks: 0-4,6,8,10-11,21-22,25-28

References: <200002090126.UAA01054ford-trucks.com>
X-Status: Unsent

Mike Schell-Smith writes:

>I'm looking to buy a used F-150 in the not too distant future. For
several
>reasons I'm thinking about getting an extended cab, but I'm not sure
about
>bed length. What are pros and cons of short vs. long bed in extended
cab?

I have a '96 F-150 extended cab, short bed, 4x4, 351/auto. It's my first
truck, and I love the extended cab. For the most part, I don't have any
complaints about the short bed - it's still 6 3/4 ft long, so unless you
haul a lot of longer stuff - sheets of plywood, 2x4s, etc, you should do
okay with the short bed. The short bed is 8 ft from corner to corner, so
when you make that run to Home Depot for lumber, you can still fit it in
without overhanging the tailgate. And if you do have a bunch of 8
footers to load in straight, sitting them from the bottom of the front of
the bed to the top of the closed tailgate, they really shouldn't extend
much past the end of the bumper.

And as I recall, the extened cab/long bed combo is over 20 ft long, so
that may be another consideration for you. My truck is hardly a compact,
but every little bit helps here in the wilds of Long Island }:-)

Moose
John Musolino

________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: "Mark Gross" molalla.net>
Subject: Test
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 22:35:47 -0800

Only a test.


------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 01:32:47 EST
Subject: Re: Gary's Message

In a message dated 2/8/00 10:18:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, rdtectsnet.net
writes:

<< Does anyone else on the
list shed some light on the reliability of the 4R70W? >>
Rich, I had to replace almost all the internals on my 4R70W. I went with the
Art Carr parts, and have had not a whimper out of it since. But I will say
that even before I did all that the convertor slipped slightly, but a good
Transgo shift kit took care of that. Contact me off list for the Art Carr
part numbers if you want them.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Flareside and Ford
Page


------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 01:36:55 EST
Subject: Re: camber questions

All the camber kit has is 2 Concentric bushings that have more of an ovoid
shape to them to allow more adjustment. You can get these through AIM
industries www.truckin.com
later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gross" molalla.net>
Subject: Bad Alternator
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 22:44:55 -0800

I recently replaced my alternator because the previous one had gone bad.
Now, this one is doing the same things and has gone bad as well after only 2
months. The symptoms are:
1. RPM never kicks down from about 1800 no matter how long you drive.
(Butterfly valve is open.)
2. Voltage gage on dash sits right in the middle, never moves.
3. Check engine light comes on just before truck dies permanently.

Does anyone know what would cause an alternator to go bad? When I replaced
the old one, all the symptoms went away temporarily. Also, the lights used
to pulse - dim ... normal ... dim ... etc. - before I replaced the
alternator. I never noticed it with the new one. Any help would be greatly
appreciated. Thanks ...

Mark


------------------------------

From: "Mark Gross" molalla.net>
Subject: - Bad Alternator
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 23:05:48 -0800

Sorry for posting this again, but I forgot a few things:
I have an '86 F-250 with a 460 in it. My RPM stayed high all the time -
about 1800 - regardless of how long the truck was operating. I thought the
choke was stuck, but when I checked, the butterfly valve was wide open.
(I'm a machinist, not a mechanic ... so, if I make a bad assumption, please
tell me.) I noticed the lights pulsing from normal to dim and back while
driving. The voltage gage on the dash was keeping time with the lights by
moving up and back. Finally, I had to replace the battery. Everything
worked fine for awhile. Then, it all started again. I looked through the
digests and saw that it was probably the alternator. Even though it checked
at 15 volts with the truck running and a new battery, when the new battery
died, I decided to replace the alternator. That fixed the problem for about
two months, and I was a happy camper. Then the RPM started doing the same
thing. I didn't notice the lights pulsing before the battery died. Having
bought two batteries and an alternator, I would like to find out and fix
whatever is causing this. I assume that something is causing the alternator
to go bad. I know the voltage regulator is in the alternator, and maybe it
is going bad. Thanks for any help or troubleshooting advice you can give.

Mark


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 23:51:57 -0800 (PST)
From: "Casey R. Vandor" yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: HELP! Dead Truck!

I havn't thought of that. I figured a clogged filter would completely kill it
rather than all of the sudden while driving. I will try that.

Thanks,
Casey Vandor

>>>>>>>>>>
Did you change the fuel filter? Seems like you are borderline temp on #2 and
you may have clogged the fuel filter.

mike

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: '90 F-150 Heater Core
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 07:49:50 -0500

The whole dash comes out with 4 bolts........:-) and a few support
rods........next time I have to do this I'm going to investigate this
approach :-) Anybody try this approach? This, of course is on an older
truck but I can see newer ones having similar setups. The bolts are at the
ends but the top pad has to come off first so it may be more work than lying
on our back struggling with stuff we can't see and can't get our hands into
to work on etc....Just a thought :-) Since I wear bifocals which steam up
and tend to be impatient I tend to look at this kind of solution :-)

I've learned to be very patient in taking out many bolts to get to one small
part but lying on my back struggling with something which appears to have no
screws or removable retainers in it makes me very evil, wicked,
dangerous..........

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>back and have a question. I have a 1990 XLT Lariat 4x4 with
>the 5.8 and
>my heater core is clogged. I can hear the water dribbling into it and
>it burbling which is a sign of a clogged inlet. has anyone replaced
>this before. I have A/C so it can't come out through the
>hood.

------------------------------

From: MRStace84aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 07:54:45 EST
Subject: Re: '90 F-150 Heater Core

I changed one on an 89. I just popped off the glove box lid, and right
behind it was the heater core compartement. A few screws in the cover of it,
they are real easy to get to, overall a pretty easy job.

Stacy

84 F150 4x4
98 Ranger XLT 4x4

------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 07:58:40 EST
Subject: Re: '90 F-150 Heater Core

In a message dated 2/9/00 7:50:52 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3visteon.com writes:

<< makes me very evil, wicked,
dangerous.......... >>
Gary,
You? Evil, Wicked, Dangerous? Anyone who has met you wouldn't believe that
for a minute. =) But I have to agree with you. Even under the dash on my 94,
which has a lot more room than the older styles, is still a PITA to work
under. I just installed a dual fuel pump relay kit, that allows me to run
both fuel pumps while racing, and had to pull of most of the facing and trim
panels so I had room to move. I am not a small guy by any means and the large
hands and forearms just cant bend like that. I have done one heater core and
it was on my 69 Torino GT. Even with the cavernous interior this car had, it
took a LOT longer than planned to do it right just because of the maneuvering
I had to do with my body to get it in and out of there. I think on of our
fellow list members said it correctly, "The best mechanics are double jointed
midgets with 6 fingers on each hand!!"
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Flareside and
Ford Page


------------------------------

From: sliknessmindspring.com
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 08:01:57 -0500
Subject: Bad Alternator

Are you sure your regulator is in the altenator? That's what GM does on it's new altenators with the one wire out. My regulator on my '82 mounts underneath the solenoid which sits behind the battery on the passenger side of the truck. I also just replaced my altenator and knew that I transferred the wires correctly, but my battery died and I checked the alt with a mechanic friend and we found that the wires were backwards. Swapped the wires and it has worked fine since. The leads on the back of the altenator were evedently swapped when it was rebuilt.

Also, are you running a big enough altenator? Do you have a monstor stereo or electric fans or something that is drawing more power than your original setup? And I think your in dash gauge is an ammeter not a voltage meter.

It is possible that you got a bum rebuilt altenator. Happens all the time. Also, mine kept biting the bullet last year and I thought either the starter was drawing too much on startup or the alt was bad. Suffered with it for 3 months until I found my brand new heavy duty battery had a bad cell. Exchanged batteries and all was well.

Good luck, those electrical gremlins are really hard to track down!

Slik

***
I noticed the lights pulsing from normal to dim and back while
driving. The voltage gage on the dash was keeping time with the lights by moving up and back...
...I know the voltage regulator is in the alternator, and maybe it
is going bad.

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: F-150 Questions
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 08:03:27 -0500

They changed the body style in 92 and catalogs don't have 92 crash parts
.......go with 91 or older :-) Also, if you hit a tree with a 92 the
plastic parts get reall expensive......

Ok, just joshing about the expense, they're all expensive but we're having
trouble finding any yards around here that even have any mechanical parts
for the 92 much less trim parts :-( Finally found an AOD for $600, used and
no guarantees.....rebuild kit is $240 and we don't know how much damage to
the hard parts was done by driving it with no oil so......:-(

Short beds are not good for 5th wheel trailer hauling but otherwise this
makes a better around town vehicle IMHO :-) Long beds make for a pretty
long truck :-( If you hauld stone or dirt a lot you will like the long bed
better, especially if you have a HD suspension. I've hauled 2 tons on my 78
but the tires don't handle it very well :-(

Of course there is only one good engine..........:-) Ok, they all work
well, it just depends on your preferance :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>I'm looking to buy a used F-150 in the not too distant future.
> For several
>reasons I'm thinking about getting an extended cab, but I'm

>I'm also thinking of years '88-'92; were there major/important
>changes/problems that you all are aware of in any of these
>years? What size

------------------------------

From: MRStace84aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 08:03:52 EST
Subject: 300 I-6 intake/ carb question.

Hello List,

After running my 84 F150 300 I-6, I can shut it off, take off the air
breather, open the throttle on the carb, and white smoke comes rolling up out
of the intake. Is this normal, or is it the sign of a problem. I did have a
lot of raw gas pouring into my intake, but I think I've got that problem
taken care of. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Stacy Fisher
84 F150 4x4
98 Ranger XLT 4x4

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: '90 F-150 Heater Core, midgets...
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 08:08:10 -0500

Three arms would have been nice the other day with that tranny ........:-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>fellow list members said it correctly, "The best mechanics are
>double jointed
>midgets with 6 fingers on each hand!!"

------------------------------

From: rokkinhorsewebtv.net
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 05:11:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come..

<< In case anyone is wondering, I am not an EFI guy, I'm a carbureted
big block guy and I like stuff the works, and that is simple like the
C-6. I will learn how to work in the new stuff but I will never fall in
love with it......I'm already in love with my 460/C-6/NP205 and even a
whole room full of naked......could not draw me away so don't try :-)
--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary >> Welcome to the fold
and to the new millenium,Gary:-) The Aerostars are good rigs,as far as
I'm concerned.We have used several in our service fleet at work,run them
hard overloaded and they just keep going.Turnover is low,so they have to
last. About a year ago I bought an 89 that they were replacing with a
newer van.It was a mess inside and out,but my 16 y.o. son and I removed
the ladder rack and shelving,cleaned it all up and began removing all
the dings and dents.We had some matching touch-up paint put in rattle
cans by the local auto paint shop and got her lookin good
again.Underhood we replaced all wear items (belts and hoses) as well as
replacing all the critical fluids.We replaced a leaky heater core and
then ran the codes on the OBD.I reoplaced a TPS and marginal coolant
sender and later replaced the heater core.My wife has been using it as a
commuter vehicle since May and the little van consistently nets 22mpg
with over 175K on the clock.It uses some oil,but not too bad.The trans
is beginning to get goofy in OD.If it goes south,I'll go to the local
NAPA and buy a rebuilt with a convertor and a warranty.It's a 3.0
w/auto,and is the best $700 I ever spent on a rig that runs.A good
resource for ID and troubleshooting the EFI is Ford FI and EEC by
Probst.Best book I have found on the subject.

Randy Goolsby-94 Bronco EB/85 F250 4x4


------------------------------

From: MRStace84aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 08:20:06 EST
Subject: PCV Valve question

Hello List,

My 84 F150 300 I-6 has a PCV valve with two nipples, a large one and a
smaller one. I know the large one goes to the carb baseplate. Does anyone
know where the small one should connnect?

Thanks,
Stacy Fisher

84 F150 4x4
98 Ranger XLT 4x4

------------------------------

From: "Donald Porto" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: - Bad Alternator
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 05:20:42 PST

I posted a note recently about having a connector problem at my headlight
switch. The next time the lights pulse, feel the switch to see if it is hot.
My switch would react to the poor connection at the switch and it caused my
headlights to pulse when I had high beams on. There must be a circuit
breaker in the headlight switch that causes the pulsing.

/Don

----Original Message Follows----
From: "Mark Gross" molalla.net>
Reply-To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
To: "80-96-list" <80-96-listford-trucks.com>
Subject: [80-96-list] - Bad Alternator
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 23:05:48 -0800

Sorry for posting this again, but I forgot a few things:
I have an '86 F-250 with a 460 in it. My RPM stayed high all the time -
about 1800 - regardless of how long the truck was operating. I thought the
choke was stuck, but when I checked, the butterfly valve was wide open.
(I'm a machinist, not a mechanic ... so, if I make a bad assumption, please
tell me.) I noticed the lights pulsing from normal to dim and back while
driving. The voltage gage on the dash was keeping time with the lights by
moving up and back. Finally, I had to replace the battery. Everything
worked fine for awhile. Then, it all started again. I looked through the
digests and saw that it was probably the alternator. Even though it checked
at 15 volts with the truck running and a new battery, when the new battery
died, I decided to replace the alternator. That fixed the problem for about
two months, and I was a happy camper. Then the RPM started doing the same
thing. I didn't notice the lights pulsing before the battery died. Having
bought two batteries and an alternator, I would like to find out and fix
whatever is causing this. I assume that something is causing the alternator
to go bad. I know the voltage regulator is in the alternator, and maybe it
is going bad. Thanks for any help or troubleshooting advice you can give.

Mark

==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
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______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 08:46:43 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come..

rokkinhorsewebtv.net wrote:
>
> << In case anyone is wondering, I am not an EFI guy, I'm a carbureted
> big block guy and I like stuff the works, and that is simple like the
> C-6. I will learn how to work in the new stuff but I will never fall in
> love with it......I'm already in love with my 460/C-6/NP205 and even a
> whole room full of naked......could not draw me away so don't try :-)

I'm not in love with it, but if you want a trade off to the ease of
maintainability of non-electronic stuff, think of it this way. With the
electronic stuff, you can buy (or will be able to shortly) equipment to
tweak it on the fly and at a level not approachable in non-computer
controlled stuff. You may never get into this, but it sure is fun when
you change 4% of fuel added, medium load, 2200 RPM and then using
the O2 sensors for feedback after you have turned off closed loop to
keep O2 sensors reading conintuous output instead of switching for
emissions. It's not easy, but it is cool when you get it working right
and then just tweak one little thing and it works.

OX

------------------------------

From: "Matt Fitzsimmons" idirect.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Swap
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 08:59:02 -0500


> > I don't know about the TBI, but I would think if you got
> > all the computer stuff with it, it should be fine.
>
> TBI ? Is this the Motorcraft 7200 VV 2 barrel carb ?
> if so, it will fit on any manifold meant for a 2V carb, and as
> long as it has the right electronics with it, it will work.

TBI is quite rare on a FORD, but they did have them. They're shown in my
manuals as CFI, Central Fuel Injection. I once saw an LTD with a 351 and CFI
converted to a 500 CFM Holley 2 bbl. I don't know if he had to use an
adapter plate or not.


> An EFI/TFI IV EEC controller computer will not work
> with a EEC II/III 7200VV 2 barrel feedback system however,
> so you will have to swap all the wiring and components.

If you have all the wiring and computer, it might be easier to retain the
CFI. CFI uses a low pressure fuel system, something like 18 to 20 PSI. The
pressure regulator is built in to the back of the CFI unit. I think you can
get away with standard high pressure in tank or inline pumps.


> > Your intake definately will not swap. The 351 is wider than
> > the 5.0. You may have to swap the oil pan from a front sump
> > to a rear sump.

True, and the pick up tube as well.

> in the 80-86 models, this is definitely the case ... however, the
> oil pan from your 302 will fit the 351W without a problem.
>
Not true, the oil pans won't swap, you'll need a 351 truck pan.

The accessories on the front of the engine may not be as tough as it looks.
The water pump and timing cover are dimentionaly the same, and there are
adapters to relocate the mounting holes in the heads. ( if your accessory
mounts don't already have both mounting holes)

You'll also need a Y pipe to connect the exhaust to the engine. The 351
pipe is a little wider and a little higher, the 302 pipe can be cut at the
cross over and have a section added.



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 08:53:59 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: E4OD to a C6

Scott Golly wrote:
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> I have done just about everything to my truck that I can but replace the
> tranny. So here I go!! Has anybody swapped the E4OD for a C6 (I know I
> loose the OD). I have the Speed density computer and a 1990 5.8L engine
> in a 4x4. i want more power to the wheels and the E4OD is limiting me.
> I have a C6 with a transfer case. I know it will bolt right up but what
> about the computer???
>

The E4OD has inputs from the computer. Not sure if the computer has
inputs from the E4OD. Unless you know someone who has done the swap and
had a happy computer, I'd try to locate the computer that used the C-6
just in case. Then if it runs crappy, you know where to get the right
computer.

OX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 09:01:35 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Saginaw pump on M block fords

Hey all

I did this conversion and and I could not find the exact bracket I
needed so I modded one.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.Off-Road.Com/ford/bigbroncos/tech/pspump.html

I've heard some early 80's vans had the right bracket, any truth to
that?

OX

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Vin decoders??
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 10:40:48 -0500

Ok, this has been said but I didn't keep track because I wasn't interested
but now I am!! I tried Mike Masse's decoder for my 93 Aerostar and it
didn't work....is there a free web site that I can quickly decode a vin for
this?

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--


------------------------------

From: FULSZBRONCaol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 10:47:34 EST
Subject: Re: camber questions

You must have a lift kit in it. When it was installed
it must not have been complete and now there's
isn't enough adjustment left to do a proper alignment.
<< I took my 91 F150 4x4 in for a front end alignment and they couldnt do it,
they said I needed a camber kit. >>

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Welcome, puny 302's :-)
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 10:53:00 -0500

Yeah, I deliberately baited the mustang crowd :-) They have to work to get
430 hp :-) BTW, that "rusting away on the older list" was not an insult,
just a reference to the condition most of our older trucks are in sad to say
but they won't all stay that way for sure......mine won't :-) Got the sheet
metal lying on the barn floor.......rusting away......ready to put in if I
ever get time :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>>And what do you mean by PUNY 302? MY 5.0 is putting out
>almost 430 HP >to the flywheel...not too puny I would say!!! =)
>
>Didn't think that puny comment would get too far without a response:)

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: E4OD to a C6
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 10:58:09 -0500

Just curious what you mean by "limiting you"? The bottom end of the E4OD is
the same as the C-6. How does the OD cause a problem? The wide ratio C-6
uses the same ratios that the E4OD does.

Along these lines though.....has anyone ever tried to use a plain,
non-locking converter with either the E4OD or the 4R70W? Do the input
shafts etc. match up with older converters?

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>in a 4x4. i want more power to the wheels and the E4OD is
>limiting me.

------------------------------

From: "Michael R. Dunbar" vtc.vsc.edu>
Subject: Brake Pads & Wheel Bearings
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:13:16 -0500

Looking at the Haynes manual I've got didn't help to explain things too
much, so I'm asking rather than avoid serious issues later. Last week I put
on a new set of tires on the front, for financial reasons, I had done the
rear in the fall and held out for the front. Anyway, the place I bought the
tires at saved me a couple of bucks by having me do all the work, minus
mounting and balancing. So, while I had the front end in the air and the
tires off I poked around and checked out the brakes and rotors. The rotors
appeared in good shape and didn't look warped. However, rotating the driver
side wheel was "very" difficult, especially in comparison to the passenger
side. I had noticed towards the end of the fall, just before I started
driving with the windows rolled up all of the time, there was a high pitch
noise coming from the left front. I figured it was either my brakes starting
to go or my wheel bearings. I narrowed it down to bearings because the noise
would not disappear or change in pitch when hitting the brakes.... until I
slowed to a certain point, then it would cease.

I have next week off, so I figure I'm going to try and change out both front
wheel bearings. Since I have to dismantle everything, I figured it would be
just as good a time to replace the brake pads as well. I'm looking for any
advice, anything I should look for, or anything I should or should "not" do
when doing this. As I said before, the Haynes manual I've got didn't help
too much, I'm hoping it's fairly straightforward. Any help would be
appreciated. Thanks!

Mike Dunbar
89 F-150 XLT Lariat
White River Jct., Vermont

"Just remember, the wheel's spinning but the hamster's dead"

Pet Peeve of a Goldfish:
"Just because I have a three-second memory, they don't think I'll mind
eating the same fish flakes ... Oh boy! Fish flakes!"


------------------------------

From: Robert Warnicke TSLA.com>
Subject: Re: Vin Decoding
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 09:36:51 -0700

Thank you very much!

-----Original Message-----
From: S Spaulding [mailto:ss80xtworldnet.att.net]
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 6:55 PM
To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Vin Decoding


E = Club Wagon or Regular Van
S = Super Wagon or Super Van

Passenger:
E11 = Club Wagon E150
E21 = Club Wagon E250
S31 = Club Wagon E350 (Super Wagon)

Regular Van:
E14/S14 = E150 Regular Van/Super Van
E24/S24 = E250 Regular Van/Super Van
E25 = E250HD Regular Van
E34/S34 = E350 Regular Van/Super Van

Other:
E37 = E350 Commercial Cutaway
E30 = E350 RV Cutaway
E39 = E350 Commercial Stripped Chassis
E33 = E350 RV Stripped Chassis


Character 4 denotes GVWR Class and brake type, with all of these being
hydraulic:

A - 3000 pounds or less
add 1000 pounds for each letter up to F (7001-8000)
G - 8001-8500
H - 8501-9000
J - 9001-10000
K - 10000-14000
L - 14001-16000
M - 16001-19500

Steve
==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
message.

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 300 I-6 intake/ carb question.
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:53:50 -0500

When you open the throttle you squirt fuel into the plenum which is still
hot and it vaporizes turning into a white "smoke" which is very normal. If
it smokes while running then you have what is called "reversion" which
actually is expected under certain circumstances even when the engine is
properly tuned but at idle there should be no smoke :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>After running my 84 F150 300 I-6, I can shut it off, take off the air
>breather, open the throttle on the carb, and white smoke comes
>rolling up out

------------------------------

From: DTrowbridgewebtv.net (David Trowbridge)
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 10:54:42 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: 300 I-6 intake/ carb question.

Stacy, i think this is real common in carb/throttle body engines. my
truck does that and my C&^#y car with tbi injection does it as well. i
don't think it is anything bad, just something that kinda messes with
your mind the first time you see it!

David
85 F-150 300 I6


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Ok,Igive up.EFI here I come..
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:48:48 -0500

I've entertained the idea of after market stuff but OEM stuff is for the
birds or city slickers and desk jockies not people who do their own work on
vehicles. It's too difficult to diagnose without investing in more
equipment but since this is the way of the future at least this would be a
"good" investment if you do your own work :-)

Now that I am on the 80-96 list I will probably be investing in some new
equipment.....

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>electronic stuff, you can buy (or will be able to shortly) equipment to
>tweak it on the fly and at a level not approachable in non-computer
>controlled stuff.

------------------------------

End of 80-96-list Digest V2000 #1
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