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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 80-96-list); Tue, 08 Feb 2000 20:26:47 -0500 (EST)
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 20:26:47 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 80-96-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list Digest V1 #2004
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------------------------------------
80-96-list Digest Tue, 08 Feb 2000 Volume: 01 Issue: 2004

In This Issue:
Re: Well, I give up.....:_(
Re: Well, I give up.....:_(
Ok, I give up, EFI here I come....
New Guy
Re: Ok, I give up, EFI here I come....
Loosing power with more gas
Re: Cold Speedometer Woes
Re: Loosing power with more gas
85 F series climate and cruise control
85 F series climate control
Re: Broken doorlocks and shoddy work
Re: E4OD Towing (long)
Hose from air cleaner
Re: Compression test results, bad valve seals?
Re: Ok, I give up, EFI here I come....
Re: Compression test results, bad valve seals?
AOD & E4OD was E4OD Towing (long)
Re: Ok, I give up, EFI here I come....
Re: Vin Decoding
Re: Hose from air cleaner
Re: AOD & E4OD
Re: Compression test results, bad valve seals?
Re: Hose from air cleaner
HELP! Dead Truck!
Re: Compression test results, bad valve seals?
Re: HELP! Dead Truck!
Re: E4OD Towing (long)
Re: Ok, I give up, EFI here I come....
Re: Hose from air cleaner
Banks Trans Command
Re: Hose from air cleaner
Rusting 95 Bronco
Re: Rusting 95 Bronco
Re: Rusting 95 Bronco
Re: Power lumbar....SOLVED
Rear springs needed...
Re: FE engine
Re: FE engine
Thanks for the help!
F-150 Questions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Well, I give up.....:_(
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 06:43:43 -0500

Ken, I was getting kicked off with the whole post less than 40 lines
including the original post and signature etc.. That's what threw me. I
was carefull to make sure there were only a couple of old lines and more new
ones than old ones and it still kicked me out so I couldn't figure out what
it was catching.....:-( Seems to have some kind of random pick method :-)
I tried taking out the prefix so all the text looked like new stuff too.
Maybe it's the way Outlook "INSISTS" on putting the signature at the top of
the post. This really irritates me but I have not found a place to tell it
to do anything else.......one of Bill's nifty "better" ideas......:-(

I HATE SOFTWARE THAT ASSUMES WE ARE ALL STUPID SO DICTATES TO US HOW IT WILL
BE SET UP #$#^&&^%$ !# $%&*&^%#

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>If you check out the posts I made on the 61-79 list early
>this morning, you'll find that I upped the quoting limit to
>40 lines.
>
>Ken

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Well, I give up.....:_(
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 06:45:37 -0500

Nope! I ALWAYS delete that....:-(
hsgdshj
sdghjshs
sfdhshsh
shshs
shsfhs
just to make sure I have more lines than the old post :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>I finally bounced one 8^> I think it's the bottom
>'unsubscribe' header you
>gotta cut out when you reply.

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Ok, I give up, EFI here I come....
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 06:53:36 -0500

Well, I finally graduated to this list. After rusting away on the 61-79
list for about 4 years I have purchased a 93 Aerostar which some may
consider a wagon but I'm calling it a truck so I can be on this list :-) It
has the 4.0 engine, hopefully the non-electronic AOD, extended body and 7
passenger XLT packages. My wife is very ill with many problems and will
need a handycapper pretty soon so I decided to get a nice one and slip a
lift in it later as the need arises. I also have a 94 bird with the worst
tranny Ford ever designed, the electronic AOD with slipping converter and
just pulled another AOD from my son's 92 F-150 which he totally fried after
hitting a deer and not checking to see if any damage was done to the
radiators etc.......cooler was punched :-( That little job took me 3 hours
since I had no help and had to try several tricks to get the stupid wrench
to stay on the bolt heads in the top cross member (took both hands to
operate the ratchet and stupid me didn't buy any impact sockets for the
metric stuff (went to town and bought new sockets too, forgot I needed
impact stuff, darn it!)) section to get the nuts off......BUMMER!!!
Otherwise it was a piece a cake :-)

For those who don't know me, I have a 30x48' pole barn with 12' ceiling and
2 post in ground "Rotary" hydraulic lift and I added a parallel arm
arrangement to my engine hoist to make it into a tranny jack which works
"pretty well" but not perfect as you might expect with such a cumbersome
piece of equipment :-) My shop is a long way from finished but I have been
enjoying it this winter thanks to a $130 propane "contractors" heater which
really sucks the gas but does heat an uninsulated building pretty well :-)

Anyway I joined this list because I will be working with EFI and those
utterly stupid computer controlled AOD's and will be asking a few questions
along the way. I ordered the manuals for the C-6, AOD and E4OD which should
be here today (apparently Saturday is not considered a "day" by UPS (ordered
them shipped next day air on Friday)) I'm hoping they have the info on
drilling the passages for the 70R4 or what ever it's called to make the
converter actually lock up instead of almost locking up as our illustrious
wet behind the ears engineers designed it.....:-( I think I need the other
manual for that, forgot to order it that day :-(

In case anyone is wondering, I am not an EFI guy, I'm a carbureted big block
guy and I like stuff the works, and that is simple like the C-6. I will
learn how to work in the new stuff but I will never fall in love with
it......I'm already in love with my 460/C-6/NP205 and even a whole room full
of naked......could not draw me away so don't try :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 07:57:40 -0500
From: "Koser, Richard W" lmco.com>
Subject: New Guy

Hello All,

I am a recent new owner of a 1985 F-150 2WD, and member of the list. I
picked it up for a mere $300, I could not resist. I am looking for some
specs on my truck. Here are the code that are listed on the door frame:

Engine: I-300
Transmission Code: W
Axle Code: 18
Spring Code: A (maybe AV hard to tell)

Specifically I am interested in things like horsepower and torque ratings,
transmission type/gear ratios and axle ratio. Also, does anyone know if this
configuration is setup for towing, everyday driving, or something else? Any
information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Rich Koser


------------------------------------------------------
Richard W. Koser
Sr. Network Systems Engineer

Lockheed Martin Global Telecommunications
Phone: (610) 354-1759
Pager: 1-800-607-5821
Email: richard.w.koser lmco.com
------------------------------------------------------



------------------------------

From: "Steve Schmeckpeper" ee.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Ok, I give up, EFI here I come....
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 07:16:21 -0600

I used to have a 79..............till I put it in the ditch last year
8^(((((
Sometimes I miss the old truck REAL BAD! They both had 302's but this 87 I
got now has EFI and all these hoses and cannisters and fuel lines and
solenoids and wiring harnesses and computers and so on. And everything is
CRAMMED under the hood so it takes a double-jointed midget to work on the
d #n thing!!!!! The 79 was a JOY to work on! I could even climb in the
engine compartment, there was so much room. And it had a carburator too, and
NO computer! blah-blah-blah-blah..............
Anyway, if I can learn EFI anybody can. It just takes a little time
8^>
Smeck
87 F150 302EFI T18
----- Original Message -----
From: Peters, Gary (G.R.) visteon.com>
To: <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 5:53 AM
Subject: [80-96-list] Ok, I give up, EFI here I come....


> Well, I finally graduated to this list. After rusting away on the 61-79
> list for about 4 years


------------------------------

From: "James" colstate.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 08:46:51 +0500
Subject: Loosing power with more gas

I have a 1989 F150 with the 300 six and Mazda 5 speed and I
had an odd experience this past weekend while towing. I borrowed a
trailer to take my Suzuki Samurai to a trailride and on the
interstate, I found that on flat level ground the fastest speed I
could get was about 65 MPH. In fact, if I tried to accelerate past
65, the truck would slow down. If I let up on the gas pedal a
little, it would speed back up to 65. My guess is that with the
weight of the trailer plus the extra wind resistance of the Suzuki
sitting up on the trailer ( I usually flat tow), I was carrying the
maximum load my truck could handle. Anybody else ever have this
happen?

Later,
James H




------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Cold Speedometer Woes
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 09:07:58 -0500

Stop and think about this gang....if the cable moves and is not broken then
the cable is not likely to be the problem. My tempo did this too and I
suspect it was actually in the speedo itself. The driver can is too tight
to the driven can inside the speedo so when it is cold they shrink and
touch. It doesn't take much of a touch to bind them together so the needle
pegs or nearly pegs.

Bad cables "usually" cause chatter or variation in the reading, a kind of
oscillation of the needle or jumping of the needle but if it stays way too
high this indicates some kind of mechanical bind between the driver and
driven parts. In the case of the tempo, it stayed high untill the cab wamed
up indicating that the speedo itself was the culprit. It only takes a few
minutes for the cable to warm up due to friction etc...

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>I had this same problem. New speedo cable took care of it.
>>
>> I have noticed several times since the "real" winter arrived that the
>> speedo on my 91 F-250 reads high when it's cold.

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Loosing power with more gas
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 09:14:58 -0500

This is actually an indication of poor mixture/timing not engine capability.
An engine will pull hard until it reaches it's limit but at that point it
will continue pulling if all other factors are working correctly, it just
won't accellerate any more. My guess is that it is leaning out which may be
an indication of a failing high pressure pump or some other sensor failure
which is affecting the mixture.

On a carbed engine it would almost certainly be a lean mixture problem. It
slows down because you are letting in more air than it can accomodate so
leans out. When you back off the throttle you reduce the air back to a
level the fuel delivery system can accomodate.....for what ever reason. I'm
not an EFI guy but the principles are about the same in this case I would
think?

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>interstate, I found that on flat level ground the fastest speed I
>could get was about 65 MPH. In fact, if I tried to accelerate past
>65, the truck would slow down. If I let up on the gas pedal a
>little, it would speed back up to 65. My guess is that with the

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 07:34:05 -0700
From: Andrew Antipas sopris.net>
Subject: 85 F series climate and cruise control

This truck also has cruise control and it is not working either. Given
that engine vacuum controls the climate control system and the cruise
control, could there be a connection? Is there a check valve at this
tomato can? Is there a check to see if it works? Go to the dealer for
parts? Thanks for the direction folks!


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 07:35:01 -0700
From: Andrew Antipas sopris.net>
Subject: 85 F series climate control

I forgot to mention that the climate control system does not work when
I'm moving or standing still.


------------------------------

From: "DannyF" ev1.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 08:33:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Broken doorlocks and shoddy work

> For
> the first two weeks I owned the truck, they had it for 8 days and managed
> to
> screw up everything they touched, etc. Anyway, I had them put in an
> alarm
> system and that seemed to be the only thing they did right, until
> recently.
> The problem showed up as a glitchy remote which wouldn't always
> unlock
> the doors. I disabled the alarm and lived with it for a while. Then I
> noticed that when the remote wouldn't work, the doorlock switches inside
> the
> cab wouldn't work either. Hrmmm. After a little playing around I found
> that if I opened the driver's side door incrementally, it would work, it
> wouldn't work, would, wouldn't, and so on. Ok, loose connection.
> I opened up the door panel and pulled the paneling from inside the
> cab
> on the driver's side to take a look-see. In the alarm system wiring I
> found
> one wire that had popped off its terminal and a couple more that were
> never
> put on the terminal correctly and were just waiting for fall off. I
> hooked
> 'em all back up and it still didn't work. Grrr... And now the switches
> in
> the cab didn't work at all. Double Grrr...
> I finally found the problem inside the rubber boot that runs from
> the
> cab to the doors. These fools spliced into the wires right where they
> move
> the most! Needless to say, a wire was broken in there, and while it was
> easy enough to fix, I know I'll be doing the job again within a year or
> two.
> At least now I'll know where to look.
> Sorry this one was so long, but I really had to vent. I'm amazed
> that
> people can make a living doing such a half-*ssed job.
> Hope this helps someone. It sure did wonders for me. ;-)
>
> -Mike

I hear you Mike.

Hell, I'm afraid to take my '90 F-150 in for a recalled ignition switch
because I'm *sure* they're going to screw something up. Have an
alarm also that I'm betting they'll mess up installing the switch.


Danny
fitz011 ev1.net

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: E4OD Towing (long)
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 10:37:15 -0500

E4OD needs lots of cooling so should come with a stock cooler. If you live
in a hot climate an additional one may be indicated but be carefull not to
interfere too much with the flow in the process. It sounds like it may
indeed simply be too full :-)

Are you sure it's an E4OD? I believe my son's F-150 is an AOD but not
really sure since he (or his mother) lost the tag I took off for him to call
around and locate a used one with........I never actually looked it the tag
but assumed it was an AOD since it's just a puny 302 :-):-):-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>I own a 92 F250 XLT 4 X 2, 351 ci, 3.55 rear end, E4OD

>started rolling out from under the truck. Transmission fluid
>was dripping
>out of the vent hole and onto the exhaust pipe. Since I

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 07:50:07 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Hose from air cleaner

Don't forget, I just bought this and know nothing about it.....
The guy/gal who owned this 86 F150 I-6 before me
apparently had some smog trouble and half the stuff is
torn apart. I am piecing it together as best I can but am
stumped by a hose coming off the top of the (1bbl) air
cleaner. This hose has a check valve on the other end of
it with a hose stub on the end of that. Where the heck does
this attach?
Thanks,
Chuck






------------------------------

From: DTrowbridge webtv.net (David Trowbridge)
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 09:50:49 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Compression test results, bad valve seals?

Jim,
the smoke is white, and at night it can get so thick that i can't see
headlights from cars behind me. unfourtunately i don't know if the
valve seals were replaced. i don't think they were. a friend of
mine(he also owns an 85 F-150 300 I6) said i can change out the valve
seals without removing the head. is this true? he said the only thing
you have to do is turn the motor so that the cylinder you are working on
is at TDC. that way the valves don't drop into the cylinder.

David
85 F-150 300 I6


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Ok, I give up, EFI here I come....
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 10:55:15 -0500

I've been picking up a few points here and there so I'm not completely in
the dark but each year the sensor locations change and they add other
sensors and more stuff to learn about so it has not been at the top of my
list to fool with. Since I am trying to get set up to retire and since I
will have at least one EFI vehicle in my stable from here on out and don't
want to have to pay someone else to fool with it, I am going to begin
looking into all this. On the one hand it is actually a little intrigueing
but on the other it is a bit daunting due to the many variations even in one
model and one model year.

The basics are still pretty much the same across the board though so it
shouldn't be all that hard to figure it out once I have that part under the
hood (bonet, hat).

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Anyway, if I can learn EFI anybody can. It just takes a little time

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 07:59:42 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Compression test results, bad valve seals?

David,
Your friend knows of what he speaks...
Simply pull the plug for the cylinder that you will be working on.
Start to move the piston up the barrell and feed some 1/4 rope
into the spark plug hole. The piston moving up will push the
rope up to hold the valves in place.
Remove valve spring and replace seal....
A simplified explanation but not much more to it than that.
Chuck

At 09:50 AM 2/8/00 -0600, you wrote:

>said i can change out the valve
>seals without removing the head. is this true? he said the only thing
>you have to do is turn the motor so that the cylinder you are working on
>is at TDC. that way the valves don't drop into the cylinder.
>
>David
>85 F-150 300 I6
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
>message.



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 08:09:30 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
Subject: AOD & E4OD was E4OD Towing (long)

Gary,

The AOD and E4OD are relatively simple to discern. The AOD has the OD on the
gear select, with no electric cancel switch. The E4OD has a cancel switch, on
the end of the shifter stalk.

Also the AOD pan is square with a large drop in the middle. The E4OD pan is
rather odd shaped and a good deal longer.

Both transmissions are available in F-150s/Broncos. They were never in the
Aerostars, that rig has the A4LD in it probably.

Bob


"Peters, Gary (G.R.)" wrote:

> E4OD needs lots of cooling so should come with a stock cooler. If you live
> in a hot climate an additional one may be indicated but be carefull not to
> interfere too much with the flow in the process. It sounds like it may
> indeed simply be too full :-)
>
> Are you sure it's an E4OD? I believe my son's F-150 is an AOD but not
> really sure since he (or his mother) lost the tag I took off for him to call
> around and locate a used one with........I never actually looked it the tag
> but assumed it was an AOD since it's just a puny 302 :-):-):-)
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> --
>
> >I own a 92 F250 XLT 4 X 2, 351 ci, 3.55 rear end, E4OD
>
> >started rolling out from under the truck. Transmission fluid
> >was dripping
> >out of the vent hole and onto the exhaust pipe. Since I
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
> message.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 08:13:03 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Ok, I give up, EFI here I come....

There are a few books out there that will make the task easier My favorite:
Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control by Charles Probst.

It is a very good book to learn about the EFI and sensor arrays.

Bob


"Peters, Gary (G.R.)" wrote:

> I've been picking up a few points here and there so I'm not completely in
> the dark but each year the sensor locations change and they add other
> sensors and more stuff to learn about so it has not been at the top of my
> list to fool with. Since I am trying to get set up to retire and since I
> will have at least one EFI vehicle in my stable from here on out and don't
> want to have to pay someone else to fool with it, I am going to begin
> looking into all this. On the one hand it is actually a little intrigueing
> but on the other it is a bit daunting due to the many variations even in one
> model and one model year.
>
> The basics are still pretty much the same across the board though so it
> shouldn't be all that hard to figure it out once I have that part under the
> hood (bonet, hat).
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> --
>
> >Anyway, if I can learn EFI anybody can. It just takes a little time
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
> message.


------------------------------

From: Robert Warnicke TSLA.com>
Subject: Re: Vin Decoding
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 09:24:04 -0700


Thanks! You are right, the vin I have was from a conversion van.
Do you have a complete list of other possibilities Ford used in the "E14"
area and "restraint/brakes" areas?

For instance for digit 5 I have seen S, does this indicate ambulance?

For digits 6 and 7 I have seen numbers like, 20, 24, 34 and 37.

I would like to be able to decode Econoline vins other than my own.


-----Original Message-----
From: S Spaulding [mailto:ss80xt worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 5:56 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Vin Decoding


Bob, to be more specific:

1FDEE14HOKHC20000

1FD = Ford Motor Company, USA (2 for Canada) and D means incomplete
vehicle (IV), which means that it went to a non-Ford location to be
completed. You must have a conversion van.

E = Hydraulic brakes, Class E (6,001 - 7,000 Pounds)

E14 = Econoline E150 Cargo Van (Truck or IV)
==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
message.

------------------------------

From: slikness mindspring.com
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 11:25:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Hose from air cleaner

Ie sounds to me like that is the PCV check valve that should go to your valve cover.

Slik

>...stumped by a hose coming off the top of the (1bbl) air
cleaner. This hose has a check valve on the other end of
it with a hose stub on the end of that. Where the heck does
this attach?
Thanks,
Chuck





==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
message.



------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: AOD & E4OD
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 11:42:29 -0500

Is this the same as the EAOD or 70R4 or ........I need to get the book for
my stupid 94 bird with the nonlocking (slipping) converter which is
controlled by a drunken programmer who wrot.........ok that's chrysler,
maybe ford programmers don't drink :-).....and also the one for the Star too
??

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Aerostars, that rig has the A4LD in it probably.
>
>Bob

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 10:59:23 -0600
From: Bill G uab.edu>
Subject: Re: Compression test results, bad valve seals?

Gee, and all these years I been hassling with compressed air and losing the
adapter rig to screw in the plug hole. What a great NG!

Chuck Sanborn wrote:

> David,
> Your friend knows of what he speaks...
> Simply pull the plug for the cylinder that you will be working on.
> Start to move the piston up the barrell and feed some 1/4 rope
> into the spark plug hole. The piston moving up will push the
> rope up to hold the valves in place.
> Remove valve spring and replace seal....
> A simplified explanation but not much more to it than that.
> Chuck
>


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:02:44 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Hose from air cleaner

Hey Slik,
That's what is sounds like it might be but all the ports on the PCV valve
are taken with other hoses :-|
And I'm am not where the truck is to go out and recheck where the other
hoses run to.....
Chuck

At 11:25 AM 2/8/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Ie sounds to me like that is the PCV check valve that should go to your
>valve cover.
>
>Slik
>
> >...stumped by a hose coming off the top of the (1bbl) air
>cleaner. This hose has a check valve on the other end of
>it with a hose stub on the end of that. Where the heck does
>this attach?
>Thanks,
>Chuck
>
>
>
>
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
>message.
>
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
>message.



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 08:33:31 -0800 (PST)
From: "Casey R. Vandor" yahoo.com>
Subject: HELP! Dead Truck!

I just bought an '88 F-250 two weeks ago. It has the 7.3 diesel in it. Right
after buying it, the temp was down to about -10 and it quit on me running down
the road. I thought it was gelled up since I hadn't burned any fuel and put
any disel 1 in it yet. I had to have it towed, and I thought I would have the
shop take a look at it. The glow plug controller was bad and one glow plug
was bad. I picked it up today (temp is like 10 degrees and the fuel is diesel
#2 with conditioner) and it choked on me again. I will be driving down the
road and it dies, it won't restart or have any hint of restarting. Any ideas,
suggestions, hints?

Thanks,

=====
Casey Vandor
'88 Ford F-250 4x4 dsl
'77 Jeep CJ5

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: "Donald Porto" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Compression test results, bad valve seals?
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:11:53 PST

My hat off to you. What a great idea! I too used compressed air but this is
simplier, cheaper and better. I will remember this one.

----Original Message Follows----
From: Bill G uab.edu>
Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: Compression test results, bad valve seals?
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 10:59:23 -0600

Gee, and all these years I been hassling with compressed air and losing the
adapter rig to screw in the plug hole. What a great NG!

Chuck Sanborn wrote:

> David,
> Your friend knows of what he speaks...
> Simply pull the plug for the cylinder that you will be working on.
> Start to move the piston up the barrell and feed some 1/4 rope
> into the spark plug hole. The piston moving up will push the
> rope up to hold the valves in place.
> Remove valve spring and replace seal....
> A simplified explanation but not much more to it than that.
> Chuck
>

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To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
message.


______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Mike" email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: HELP! Dead Truck!
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 10:17:30 -0700

Did you change the fuel filter? Seems like you are borderline temp on #2 and
you may have clogged the fuel filter.

mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Casey R. Vandor yahoo.com>
To: Ford List <80-96-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 10:11 AM
Subject: [80-96-list] HELP! Dead Truck!


:I just bought an '88 F-250 two weeks ago. It has the 7.3 diesel in it.
Right
:after buying it, the temp was down to about -10 and it quit on me running
down
:the road. I thought it was gelled up since I hadn't burned any fuel and
put
:any disel 1 in it yet. I had to have it towed, and I thought I would have
the
:shop take a look at it. The glow plug controller was bad and one glow
plug
:was bad. I picked it up today (temp is like 10 degrees and the fuel is
diesel
:#2 with conditioner) and it choked on me again. I will be driving down the
:road and it dies, it won't restart or have any hint of restarting. Any
ideas,
:suggestions, hints?
:
:Thanks,
:
:=====
:Casey Vandor
:'88 Ford F-250 4x4 dsl
:'77 Jeep CJ5
:
:__________________________________________________
:Do You Yahoo!?
:Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
:http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com
:==========================================================
:To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
:the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
:message.
:



------------------------------

From: FLR150 aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 12:19:01 EST
Subject: Re: E4OD Towing (long)

In a message dated 2/8/00 10:39:36 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3 visteon.com writes:

<< .I never actually looked it the tag
but assumed it was an AOD since it's just a puny 302 :-):-):-) >>
Gary,
If you look at the pan on the transmission, if its an AODE or 4R70W, then the
pan will say METRIC on it. If not then its an AOD. Also if it has the OD off
switch on the gear selector, then it is an AODE/4R70W. The only difference
between the 2 trans. types is that the 4R70W has a lower ratio first gear
band for more grunt off the start.
And what do you mean by PUNY 302? MY 5.0 is putting out almost 430 HP to the
flywheel...not too puny I would say!!! =)
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Redesigned webpage http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/flr150/index.html

------------------------------

From: FLR150aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 12:22:26 EST
Subject: Re: Ok, I give up, EFI here I come....

In a message dated 2/8/00 10:56:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3visteon.com writes:

<< gpeters3visteon.com (Peters, Gary (G.R.)) >>
Gary,
Contact me off list. I have a source of info for you on these things and in
particular the Aerostar you just bought.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Flareside and
Ford Page


------------------------------

From: sliknessmindspring.com
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 12:55:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Hose from air cleaner


> Hey Slik,That's what is sounds like it might be but all the ports on the PCV valve are taken with other hoses... :-|

It's probably the other end of your crankcase ventilation. The PCV comes from the crankcase and vents to the carb to burn recirculated gases from the crankcase; the other end draws fresh air through the air filter into the crankcase via a hose and connection that fits into the valve cover (usually). Mine fit into the oil filler cap.

Slik

------------------------------

From: Spruce1495aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 13:35:39 EST
Subject: Banks Trans Command

Hello out there,
I am considering a transmission oem command module for my E40D. I have read
about a cheaper unit (simple plug-in) module that apparently changes values
to trans. for harsher, more positive shifts. The Banks Power Co. version is
about $250.00, but I'm thinking that this is the one to use. Has anyone had
any experience with this or a similar unit???? Any comeback will be
appreciated. I pull a 27 ft. rv and would like to stiffen the shift points
and the slushiness of the trans.

Thanks,
Bill in KY

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 10:40:29 -0800
From: Chuck Sanborn deltanet.com>
Subject: Re: Hose from air cleaner

At 12:55 PM 2/8/00 -0500, you wrote:
>It's probably the other end of your crankcase ventilation. The PCV comes
>from the crankcase and vents to the carb

Now that makes sense. The hose is the right size to hook to the
carb. Sometimes I just
can't see the forest for the trees (so to speak). Now if you will
entertain one more question,
the is another port on top of the air cleaner, right next to the hose we
just discussed. There
is no hose connected to it but judging by the hose diameter it also looks
as if it goes
somewhere on the carb. How can a 1 bbl carburator have so many hose
requirements?!

>"It's probably the other end of your crankcase ventilation. The PCV comes
from the crankcase and >vents to the carb



------------------------------

From: "Chapman, David P" unisys.com>
Subject: Rusting 95 Bronco
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 13:54:35 -0500

Hey, I know some Bronco's had rusting problems, but I didn't expect it on my
95. There's a few little bubbles under the paint just above the rear wheel
well on the passenger side - biggest is about 1/2" across. I'm trying to
decide if I should have the problem fixed now before it gets worse or is
this the start of something bigger. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Dave
95 Bronco
in PA.

------------------------------

From: Greg Carter entrust.com>
Subject: Re: Rusting 95 Bronco
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 14:05:26 -0500

- it will get worse
- what you see is only 20% of the damage
- you can probably let it get a lot worse and the cost to fix will be the
same
- patch panels are available to fix.
- oil spray it regularly to stop the rust.

To me a '95 is still 'new'. I would hate to be driving it with rust. If
you have the cash get it fixed with patch panels and don't try to clean up
the wheel wells using bondo to fix the rust part. The patch panels are so
cheap its not worth effort of bondo.
Bye.

Greg Carter
Entrust Technologies - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.entrust.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/buildup/dana60.html


-----Original Message-----
From: Chapman, David P [mailto:David.Chapmanunisys.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 1:55 PM
To: Ford Mailing List
Subject: [80-96-list] Rusting 95 Bronco


Hey, I know some Bronco's had rusting problems, but I didn't expect it on my
95. There's a few little bubbles under the paint just above the rear wheel
well on the passenger side - biggest is about 1/2" across. I'm trying to
decide if I should have the problem fixed now before it gets worse or is
this the start of something bigger. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Rusting 95 Bronco
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 14:17:18 -0500

If the paint is bubbling up then it is already rusted below and should be at
least touched up. Just knock the paint of and clean up the rust and dab
some spot paint on it. If it's pitted which is very likely, use self
etching primer first, then touch up paint. It will only get worse and the
sooner you work on it the less the damage will be. At this point you
probably don't need patch panels but very soon, if you don't fix it, you
will :-(

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>95. There's a few little bubbles under the paint just above
>the rear wheel
>well on the passenger side - biggest is about 1/2" across.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 16:25:44 -0500
From: Rich snet.net>
Subject: Re: Power lumbar....SOLVED

Inregards to my power lumbar issue. I went out and took the seat out
again, and come to find out, the prevoius owner must not have used the
lumbar that much, because i found that the main line from the motor was
pinched in the track. All I did was unkink the line, and now it works
like a charm. Thanks too all that responded!! Ken, it's great to have
the list back!!!
Rich

------------------------------

From: ACMERCGaol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 16:57:10 EST
Subject: Rear springs needed...

anyone know of an aftermarket supplier that puts out a quality set of
replacement Leaf Springs? I can't get them locally, and they need to be
replaced... Any info would be greatly appreciated!

Joe
Lost in jersey
92 F150 4x4 302 AOD

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 17:06:21 -0500
From: Rich snet.net>
Subject: Re: FE engine

Does anyone know what F.E stands for on a Ford engine?

------------------------------

From: Eric Sneed REIL.COM>
Subject: Re: FE engine
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 16:35:44 -0800

Try the 61-79 list, there is a guy on that list that is a FE block guru. I
apologize but I cannot recall his name a this time.

Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: Rich [SMTP:rdtectsnet.net]
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 2:06 PM
To: 80-96-listford-trucks.com
Subject: [80-96-list] Re: FE engine

Does anyone know what F.E stands for on a Ford engine?
==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the body of the
message.

------------------------------

From: apowellezlink.com
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 18:19:35 -0700
Subject: Thanks for the help!

I recently asked for help with the intermittent wiper switch and removing the
cowl (over the wiper motor) to mount a CB antenna. My thanks to list-members
who helped. Thought I'd report on the results.

Wipers: I popped the small cap off the end of the turn signal/multi-function
switch, removed the innards and cleaned them up. Takes all of five minutes.
If you do this, watch out for a spring-loaded brass contact pointing straight
down which will likely fall out when the rotating wiper speed collar is pulled off.
It's easy to re-install, but don't lose it. Result of exercise: functioning is
improved, not perfect, but better=better.

Cowl: By removing the five screws under the hood on the front side of the
cowl, and four more just in front of the WS trim, the cowl can be removed. (I
must also say that the wiper blades are much easier to remove on this vehicle
than any I have ever owned...) It takes some careful wiggling and hood
opening and closing to get clearance at critical moments, but it that cowl will
just barely come off.

I now have a CB antenna mounted to the inside vertical lip of the LF fender
about 2" behind the forward lip of the cowl, lined up nicely with the radio
antenna on the RF fender. The antenna causes no discernable wind noise,
which was one concern of mine. I chose this location for two reasons -

1) This is a pretty good spot in terms of the antenna's ground plane. The
closer the antenna is mounted to the center of the metal body, the better, The
antenna's performance is excellent, even though it's a lowly $20 Radio Shack
unit.

2) This location avoids problems with antenna height problems in car washes,
and by avoiding a rear cab or bed installation, there's no need to mess with
the antenna when I remove and reinstall the canopy.

Two more notes:

First, I initially tried one of the "cell phone look-alike" antennas (JC Whitney,
forgive me..) which mounts on both side of the side window glass behind the
driver (it's a stretch cab). This antenna was totally unsatisfactory. Evidently
due to the inductive link between base and antenna, that antenna had
horrendous RF interference from both ignition and every single electrical
accessory (fan, wipers, power windows, etc...) and the antenna's sensitivity
was vastly inferior to any other I've used...even to a magnetic stick-on. A real
stinker.

Second, I found a handy spot to run wires or cables through the firewall on
trucks with an automatic tranny. There's a cover plate on the firewall where
the clutch linkage would go, held on by two nuts. Remove those, peel off the
plate (it's secured with mastic) and you can drill the plate for as many cable
runs as you need. I then peeled off the old mastic and used silicone sealer to
assure a tight seal when replacing the plate, and also used the silicone to seal
the holes I'd drilled, including a spare hole for future cable/wire runs.

Thanks for the help!

Al Powell
Fort Collins, CO

------------------------------

From: MykeSSaol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 20:28:43 EST
Subject: F-150 Questions

Hi all:

I'm looking to buy a used F-150 in the not too distant future. For several
reasons I'm thinking about getting an extended cab, but I'm not sure about
bed length. What are pros and cons of short vs. long bed in extended cab?
I'm also thinking of years '88-'92; were there major/important
changes/problems that you all are aware of in any of these years? What size
engine is reliable and durable? Would you go with automatic or manual, 4x2
or 4x2? Any advice you can give to a newbie-soon-to-be-truck owner is much
appreciated.

Mike Schell-Smith

------------------------------

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