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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #352
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80-96-list-digest Monday, December 13 1999 Volume 03 : Number 352



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Shimmy..shimmy..shake
Re: FTE 80-96 - Shimmy..shimmy..shake
Re: FTE 80-96 - Da Gas...
FTE 80-96 - glasspack /cobra cb - 87 ranger
FTE 80-96 - new to list, probs with trucks
FTE 80-96 - 94 F-250 Diesel glow plug problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - 94 F-250 Diesel glow plug problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Grandpa's Remedies
Re: FTE 80-96 - Grandpa's Remedies
Re: FTE 80-96 - glasspack /cobra cb - 87 ranger

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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 06:19:08 -0700
From: Ken Justice
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Shimmy..shimmy..shake

Hello Bud,

You might check out the bolts that hold the front split axle to the
frame. I had an identical problem ('96 150) and they found 2 bolts
missing (of 4 bolts!), 1 bolt loose and 1 with no nut on it.

I would only experience problems if I hit a deep rut or pothole, but
then all heck would break loose. After "several" of these happenings and
having it "checked out," a Ford dealer finally found the problem of the
missing bolts, etc.

Regards,

Ken Justice
Discover the Working Mat!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.workingmat.com

>Symptoms:

>Shimmy in front...sometimes have to stop...in fact on FWY did
>once..Truck
>continued travel straight...but, it felt like the front wheels were going to
>come off.
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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 12:44:56 EST
From: MRStace84 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Shimmy..shimmy..shake

If your truck has a shimmy shock on the axle, this might be the culprit. I
had a similar problem on a 1 ton Ch*vy. You would hit a bump the entire
front end would start shaking like crazy. All that you could do was get on
the brakes, and ease to a stop in order for it to quit. This turned out to
be a busted shimmy shock. I don't even know if the 250s have a shimmy shock
or not. Just a suggestion.

Stacy

84 F150 4x4
98 Ranger XLT 4x4
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 06:54:53 +1100
From: les williams
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Da Gas...

Ken,

Thank you for your recollections Re: Propane Only Use.

Every time some one tells me, on a dual system, I can tell a big difference
between Petrol & Propane, I worry, how could you logically believe that a single
system works. Yes that is the problem, it's not single. I have to go out and
drive my propane only truck around the block and beat someone to reaffirm my
beliefs in the system. For all the reasons Phred has laid out, then obviously no
person as a resident of mainland USA is going to convert to propane only. That
doesn't mean the technology doesn't work. That was the point I was alluding to,
if you have to rebuild an engine in a single propane situation, then rebuild for
Propane. Built properly, as you would any performance engine, I don't believe
the power loss is as great as it may appear on paper.
As Phred points out Ignition is important. In descussions with the Tech advise
line of a LPG supplier, It was suggested that 9.5 to 1 comp would be a
conservative starting point, 10 to 1 maybe start looking to water injection, but
not difficult. In OZ, Propane grind camshafts, inlet manifolds with no heat
risers, & LPG head work exist. 160F thermos and cold air induction systems work
wonders with Propane. Most of these things are not new or startling discoveries,
but all combined help give propane an edge. It is very difficult (impossible?)
to incorporate all these changes in an engine and co-habitate with petrol and
appease the smog laws. The other points that have been overlooked is the cost of
fuel filters and fuel pump and tank repairs, with propane there are non.
The life of the engine, since a negligible amount of abrasive carbon is being
produced, wear due to burnt crud floating around in the oil is reduced. What
price can you put on that? Another interesting point on Propane built engines
is, use the correct rings, or else they'll never bed in properly. The second
engine saver is there is no point reving over 5.000 rpm.

A $180 electric fuel pump used to pump water will crap it's self in about an
hour. Or was I unlucky.

Thanks Ken ..... and I'm headin' out to plant the corn(?), right now. Moonshine
sounds good.
Oh and by the way....... anything powered by a Keith Black Hemi engine grabs my
attention!!! ;-)) I don't think he is into the daily driver engine scene.

regards

Les
Lost in the Land of OZ


ken haley wrote:

>
> Anyhow, I seem to remember reading that compression ratios can be bumped a
> bit with propane because of its higher octane rating. Back in the 70s, when
> pump gasoline octane ratings dropped from 106 to 93, several fellas switched
> their street machines to propane, added pressurized water injection with a
> vacumn-controlled regulator (less vacumn=more water). These fellas ran
> compression ratios in the 11:1 to 12.5:1 range. If I remember correctly
> these guys ran within a tenth or two on propane what they did with Sunoco
> 260. I'm sure they recurved their ignition to appeal to the propane. I'm not
> sure what additives were dumped in the water injection systems, either, but
> I remember heated discussions about the corrosion resistance of various
> electric fuel pumps when used with water.
>
> Oh, if you know any bootleggers, moonshine is a good alternative fuel if you
> plan for the corrosive effects it may have on some plastics and run a good
> water separator. Then you can run compression ratios of 14: 1 and up. My
> Grampa ran an old Ford tractor on moonshine for decades.
>
> Hope this info contributes to the alternative fuel understandings.
>
> Ken
>
>

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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 14:22:49 PST
From: "Red Smiley Face"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - glasspack /cobra cb - 87 ranger

Hi,
About a week or two ago, I put a glasspack muffler on my 87 ford ranger. I
drove it around for an hour and then sprayed it(outer case) with water at
the car wash to break the glass but it did not break. how long am i supposed
to drive to make the glass hot enough??

I also just bought a cobra cb for my ranger today but ran into a small
problem. i don't know where to mount the cb. there is not enough room to
mount it near the steering wheel; and even if i did mount it there, then i
could not get the mic off the cb because of the short space. any ideas on
where i should put it??

______________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:42:04 -0800 (PST)
From: michael lopez
Subject: FTE 80-96 - new to list, probs with trucks

Hi all,
I'm on the SHOtimes list(own a SHO) but my dad has two trucks, an 88 f150
4wd 302 5spd long bed, and a 96 f250 crew cab (srw)4wd auto with a 460. The
driveshaft decided it didn't want to do its job anymore and snapped off
while i was driving it,(took it off threw it in 4hi and limped home) will
any auto parts stores carry them? And how expen are they?(it broke
today on a sunday of all days in the late afternoon) and the second
question is, he just had the brakes done on his f250, there is a loud
grinding type of sound coming from the left front wheel. it had new rotors
and pads threw on it. any ideas on th egrindage action? sound to me like
the dustshield(if it has one, haven't looked under it)is rubbing, it is
consistant with the speed of the wheel(slows down when stopping, speeds up
when going) the brakes work superb, all that there is, is this
grinding/rubbing noise. any help appreciated.(wanna get an idea on these b4
i go and search for driveshaft, and take the other truck back to the brake
shop.
thanks
mike lopez jr.
88 f150 4wd 178k 70 cutlass 88k w/455 89 sidekick
96 f250 4wd 60k
90 taurus SHO 148k





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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 21:25:47 EST
From: WoodStck45 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 94 F-250 Diesel glow plug problem

Fellow Ford Members

I have a 1994 F-250 Diesel with no turbo. last winter the "wait to start"
light started going off in 2 or 3 seconds and not heating up the glow plugs.
We replaced the glow plugs and that cured the problem. It's been working
great ever since until today. Its acting up again doing the same thing as
last year. Tthe light will come on when you turn on the key and go off in 2
or 3 seconds. No matter how many times you turn the key on and off the light
only stays on for 2 to 3 seconds. Is there something un-plugged somewhere?
Or could it be a bad or dirty connection somewhere?

Thanks
Paul
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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 22:00:42 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 94 F-250 Diesel glow plug problem

I do not have a diesel, but I think you have a timer relay in there that
controls how long they stay on. Check it out (probably a dealer item).

At 21:25 12/12/99 EST, you wrote:
>Fellow Ford Members
>
>I have a 1994 F-250 Diesel with no turbo. last winter the "wait to start"
>light started going off in 2 or 3 seconds and not heating up the glow
plugs.
>We replaced the glow plugs and that cured the problem. It's been working
>great ever since until today. Its acting up again doing the same thing as
>last year. Tthe light will come on when you turn on the key and go off in 2
>or 3 seconds. No matter how many times you turn the key on and off the
light
>only stays on for 2 to 3 seconds. Is there something un-plugged somewhere?
>Or could it be a bad or dirty connection somewhere?


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 00:29:19 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Grandpa's Remedies

>Spraying a small stream of water into the carb or intake when under load
>can help reduce knock (or pinging). This is old technology.
>
>Many people talk about doing it to remove carbon from combustion chambers,
>but I have never seen documented proof (like pictures) that it works, only
>stories. This is the first time I have heard hydrogen peroxide mentioned.
>If anyone has an old engine that they are going to rebuild anyway, I'd sure
>like them to run a test on it before pulling the heads!

Are you talking about off-the-shelf H2O2, or the stuff the Germans used to
burn in their rocket plains? That could make a difference.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 00:30:22 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Grandpa's Remedies

>This indeed is an old remedy. My grandfather actually had a tube connecting
>to the radiator with a valve on it running into the carb(prior to 1920's)
>when carbon jobs were required quite frequently. He noticed that whenever
>he had to change a blown head gasket the two cylinders on either side of the
>damaged gasket would be whistle clean due to the water leak. In those days
>they did not use ethlyn glycol anti freaze so whenever the engine would
>begin to knock, he could crack the valve slightly with the engine running
>and the knock would dissappear. I saw my father use a similar technique in
>the 1950's but because of the negative affects of the anti freeze, he simply
>removed the air cleaner and sprayed a fine mist of water over the carb with
>the engine running. After about 30 seconds, the knock disappeared.

The John Deere "D" was set up this way. Others used a separate water tank.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 04:09:27 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - glasspack /cobra cb - 87 ranger

>Hi,
> About a week or two ago, I put a glasspack muffler on my 87 ford
>ranger. I
>drove it around for an hour and then sprayed it(outer case) with water at
>the car wash to break the glass but it did not break. how long am i supposed
>to drive to make the glass hot enough??
>
> I also just bought a cobra cb for my ranger today but ran into a small
>problem. i don't know where to mount the cb. there is not enough room to
>mount it near the steering wheel; and even if i did mount it there, then i
>could not get the mic off the cb because of the short space. any ideas on
>where i should put it??
>

All these trucks have a problem with a place to mount a CB. In my F-150 I
mounted it to the bottom of the steering column. I had to take off the
plastic pannel and not use it. Made some brackets that attach to the
stearing column brackets.

Only problem is you cannot see the CB while driving.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake....


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