80-96-list-digest V3 #342

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80-96-list-digest Saturday, December 4 1999 Volume 03 : Number 342

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Rear spitting fluid
FTE 80-96 - Red lens
Re: FTE 80-96 - 3 speed to 4 speed conversion
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear spitting fluid
Re: FTE 80-96 - 3 speed to 4 speed conversion
FTE 80-96 - Clear tail light lenses
FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Manifolds
RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Manifolds
FTE 80-96 - RE: Clifford Performance 6=8
Re: FTE 80-96 - Clear tail light lenses
FTE 80-96 - RE: question about flowmaster
FTE 80-96 - RE: RV
RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Manifolds
FTE 80-96 - Stall on cold start
FTE 80-96 - Stall problem cont.
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: RV
Re: FTE 80-96 - Clear tail light lenses
Re: FTE 80-96 - Clear tail light lenses
Re: FTE 80-96 - Is this legal?
Re: FTE 80-96 - R/V
FTE 80-96 - U-joint replacement
FTE 80-96 - how many oxygen sensors
Re: FTE 80-96 - how many oxygen sensors
FTE 80-96 - Speaking of leagality
FTE 80-96 - TSB
FTE 80-96 - Colored lights
Re: FTE 80-96 - Is this legal?
FTE 80-96 - RE: Clear tailight lenses.
FTE 80-96 - Wide tires and lift kits....legal?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Is this legal?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear spitting fluid

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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 08:41:50 -0400
From: joe delaurentis
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rear spitting fluid

Group,
my 92 Bronco..Has this problem of spitting fluid out of the vent tube of
the 8.8
rear....What would cause this and what would fix it???This cannot be
normal???

- --
Joe
92 Bronco 351/Auto
68 F-100 4x4 390 c6- Np 205 Dana 44 with Disc Brakes,
Since Ford Didn't build em this way in 68, I'll make my own!

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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 08:57:47 -0500
From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Red lens

Nathan writes: >>I've got an '88 F-150 XLT Lariat, and I want to swap out
the orange blinkers
on the front, with red ones. Is this legal(in Georgia),and if so, does
anyone know where I can get an accesory like this. Thanks in
advance.---Nathan

Don't know about Georgia, but D O N O T come to Alabama with Red lights
of any kind on the front of your vehicle. Only emergency vehicles are
allowed to have them on the front.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 07:34:34 -0700
From: "Jim"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 3 speed to 4 speed conversion

From: "Phil / Debi"
To:
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 3 speed to 4 speed conversion
Date sent: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 15:38:58 -0500
Send reply to: 80-96-list

ford-trucks.com

> Dave, bummer for Fords, All OD trans' are computer controlled and
probably
> won't go into OD or lock up the torque convertor, unless you are real
> freindly with a competant trans shop , you wont have any luck , sorry for
> the bad news ( i know gm can be made to operate hydralically (sp?) but I
> dont think Fords can

The older AOD's were not computer controlled,

SNIP:
sorry Guys I assumed 4x4 was the vehicle in question
car trans wont work
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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 08:41:09 -0600
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear spitting fluid

- ----- Original Message -----
From: joe delaurentis
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rear spitting fluid

> Group,
> my 92 Bronco..Has this problem of spitting fluid out of the vent tube of
> the 8.8
> rear....What would cause this and what would fix it???This cannot be
> normal???

Hmmmm........ Too much gearlube? Vent tube partially clogged, ??
Smeck

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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 09:23:07 -0600
From: "DannyF"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 3 speed to 4 speed conversion

> > hey guys, does anyone know if the 4 speed auto overdrive tranny is a
> > direct swap for the 3 speed auto? i am going to be replacing the tranny
> > next week and since i do alot of highway driving, it only makes since to
> > put in the overdrive. the truck is an 85 f-150 300 inline 6. later....
> > David
> > 85 F-150
> >
> >

> Dave, bummer for Fords, All OD trans' are computer controlled and
> probably
> won't go into OD or lock up the torque convertor, unless you are real
> freindly with a competant trans shop , you wont have any luck , sorry
> for
> the bad news ( i know gm can be made to operate hydralically (sp?) but
> I
> dont think Fords can

As an alternative, they all can be made to work manually if
electrically operated. 12V to the solenoid wire and your in
business.

You'll be reminded everytime its not in OD when you hit the
highway and the engine seems louder than it should be.

I've heard of kits thru trans shops that enable you to bypass the
computer control for OD and adjust to whatever speed you deem it
should be engaged.
Danny
danf01

worldnet.att.net
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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 09:33:01 -0800
From: "Moe Gendron"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Clear tail light lenses

I think it's a fact.....Clear taillight lenses are.... just plain dumb, like
walking down the middle of the freeway...just plain dumb....Looks
cheap to boot......but that's just me

firesuit on
Wayne, you used to make alot of sense......

Moe
Houston
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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 10:52:37 EST
From: BanksRVA

aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Manifolds

Jegs carries both intake and exhaust manifolds for 300 I-6's in their
catalog. Joe 1982 F100

Flairside 300 I-6

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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 10:17:44 -0600
From: "Moore, Jimmy"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Manifolds

Where can I find this Jegs at? My manifolds are warped, and need replaced.
Cost about $1000 from the Ford dealer.

Jim Moore
1981 Ford F-150 300 Six
Oklahoma City, OK

- -----Original Message-----
From: BanksRVA

aol.com [ mailto:BanksRVA

aol.com ]
Sent: Friday, December 03, 1999 9:53 AM
To: 80-96-list

ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Manifolds

Jegs carries both intake and exhaust manifolds for 300 I-6's in their
catalog. Joe 1982 F100

Flairside 300 I-6

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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 11:26:42 EST
From: Awfanning

aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Clifford Performance 6=8

Clifford Performance is alive and well in Corona, CA. Took me a long time to
track them down, having had a very old catalog. Visit them on the web at
> , or contact them at Ph. 909*734-3310, FAX
909*734-8407. Jay Crouch is Sales Mgr/Marketing

Alan Fanning (mostly lurking for now)
San Jose
'91 Taurus SHO, '89 Sable, '82 F-150 S'Cab w/300ci and 4 spd OD maunal
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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 12:20:20 EST
From: FLR150

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clear tail light lenses

In a message dated 12/3/99 10:39:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, rocky50

ev1.net
writes:

Wayne, you used to make alot of sense......
>>
Moe,
I still think I make a lot of sense. I am just offering an objective point of
view, playing Devil's advocate if you will. Again, I respect the opinion you
offer, but then again I expect mine to be respected as well. Its all a matter
of taste and what you, as an individual, prefer.
As far as the GA DOT codes go, most of you have been correct in your
statements of redlights on the fronts of the vehicles, they are not
allowable. Now to the rear lights, according to the DOT office located in
Atlanta, "the clear style taillight lenses are acceptable as long as the
BULBS inside the housings are red in color and are of a comparable wattage to
the stock bulbs".
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Page
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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 12:12:07 -0500
From: Paul M Radecki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: question about flowmaster

>>>Does anyone know if there is any special manifold for a1994 6cil,
300ci

>>Back in the olden days there was a company called Clifford Research, or

>>maybe Clifford Engineering, that specialized in I-6 performance parts.
Are
>>these folks still araound? A bud had a 48 Ford coupe with a built 300
in it,
>>and it ran pretty good.

www.cliffordperformance.com

They mostly make stuff for old carbed motors, not much for EFI. The
factory headers in a '94 should work just fine for anything short of a
full race truck, and who builds a full race 300? You didn't do something
weird like supercharge your Big Six, did you?
There's somebody on one of these lists who runs a 300 with stock
cats and no muffler at all. He says the sound is good, but not too loud.

lordjanusz

juno.com
'94 F150 300ci
'73 F100 FE in pieces
___________________________________________________________________
Why pay more to get Web access?
Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW!
Get your free software today: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 09:32:09 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Manifolds

Jim,

Jegs is at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jegs.com/

I've not found Clifford Performance on the internet. It's been years since I
did business with them, but I have used several sets of their headers on I-6
engines in the past. Including the 79 F150 driven around the world.

Clifford also had 2-carb and 3-carb intakes that worked well. One could pick
up an extra carb or 2 from a junkyard and and rebuild them for next to
nothing. The 2-carb linkage was linear, both butterflies opening at the same
time, and worked well on stock to bolt-on mods like headers and mild cams.
The 3-carb linkage was progressive, with the center carb acting like the
primaries on a 4-barrel, and the outside carbs acting like secondaries.
Stock-carb driveability and economy around town, and 3 times the airflow
when you wanted it. Headers and more cam were required for this intake--a
bit much for the stock engine/exhaust.

Iskenderian was always my source for cams and valve trains for the I6s I've
built.

Offenhauser used to make a dandy dual plane intake for the 240/300 that
would take either a 450 cfm Carter or 390 cfm Holley. Power, fuel efficiency
(except when the secondaries opened), and throttle response where
tremendously improved over the old 1-barrel carbs. I used this intake and a
vacumn secondary Holley on the round-the-world truck.

The Offy manifold also had plenty of material for porting and adapting to
standard-base AFBs and Holleys. Properly modified, these intakes put a ton
of responsibility on the throttle foot--they can really turn up the rpm.
I've seen a streetable 300-C4 fiberglass T-bucket run consistent low 10s in
the quarter with this manifold. Their popularity on the 6 banger hydro
circuit attests to the broad powerband and good top end they deliver. Boats
MUST have a wide powerband because there were no gears to shift. One all-out
race boat engine (300) I was involved with developing net 380+ horsepower
with a 650 CFM double pumper. All I did was design a driver-adjustable
tunable exhaust to widen the powerband for the project. The boat set several
practice lap class records on both the short and long circuits at the Miami
Marine Stadium, but was destroyed in a garage fire before the season began.
The owner switched to 5-liter hydros (302 Ford) after the fire.

As many 300s are out there, someone must make intake and exhaust upgrades
for the FI versions.

Ken

>
>
>Where can I find this Jegs at? My manifolds are warped, and need replaced.
>Cost about $1000 from the Ford dealer.
>
>
>Jim Moore
>1981 Ford F-150 300 Six
>Oklahoma City, OK
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: BanksRVA

aol.com [ mailto:BanksRVA

aol.com
>]
>Sent: Friday, December 03, 1999 9:53 AM
>To: 80-96-list

ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Manifolds
>
>
>Jegs carries both intake and exhaust manifolds for 300 I-6's in their
>catalog. Joe 1982 F100
>
>
>
> Flairside 300 I-6
>
>
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>
>
>
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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 14:22:08 -0500
From: "Mahaffey, Chris M"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Stall on cold start

First, thanks for the tips on what to check for the ignition key sticking
problem, I'll take a look at that sometime soon.

I'm also experiencing another problem which is a stall after the first start
when cold. I will start the truck and all seems well, then all of a sudden,
2 or 3 seconds later, it slows down and stalls. I can restart the truck and
it will run fine. I thought maybe I have a fuel check valve problem,
something like when the truck sits the fuel drains out of the lines, so when
it's restarted the pump can't keep up with it till the lines are filled
again. To test this theory I tried turning the key to run, waiting for the
fuel pump to stop running, and then repeating a couple times before trying
to start it, thinking that would "prime" the system. It didn't seem to make
a difference so I have discounted that theory.

I have found a couple TSB's that may be of use to me, but it's hard to tell
given the limited description given at the NHTSA web site. What is the best
way to find out the full text of these bulletins? The TSB numbers are
BC3301920201, 92-18-11, and 96-20-16. They all reference a stall during
startup in the description.

Thanks for any info.
Chris
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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 14:33:24 -0500
From: "Mahaffey, Chris M"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Stall problem cont.

It might help if I tell you all it's a 92 Flareside with the 4.9L
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 11:44:02 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: RV

and the rear suspension is very stiff (stiff enough that
>it is literally shaking the body apart every time I hit an expansion
>joint). Consider airbags or some other suspension option. Those things
>aside, I would recommend the chassis type to anyone.
>___________________________________________________________________

janus,

Do you notice an improvement in ride quality between no passengers and
loaded with Weight Watchers? I bet a full load smooths things out in a
hurry. When I pull my flatbed empty, the springs don't even bend. The
trailer tires are in the air as much as on the gound. I can definately feel
it jerking the little Bronco around. With the big Bronco on the trailer, it
rides like a champ--smooth and level. There is definately a much smoother
ride with a load.

Bob,

Motorhomes are always loaded. Be sure that there is enough carrying capacity
to not overload the chassis. I have seen dry weights within a few hundred
pounds of chassis capacity. Two adults and a full tank of gas, and the
chassis is overloaded, with no capacity left for things like food, water,
tools, lawn chairs, towing, etc. One manufactirer actually built a motorhome
that was over the chassis capacity dry. Check carefully.

Worse, there is usually quite a bit of rear overhang. Models with water
tanks and/or holding tanks behind the axle can get downright dangerous at
times. The extra leverage that crosswinds (read this 80 mph
tractor/trailers) have because of all that overhang, combined with 40 or so
gallons of water in partially-filled tanks sloshing around, severely tests
any rig's design parameters. Just look at the number of "steering
stabilizers", "sway controls", and "helper springs", etc. in any RV catalog.
And all these problems occur on "industry certified" rigs. Another reason
for home building.

I use airbags front and rear with an on-board compressor on my little Bronco
because of their adjustability and convenience. Otherwise, I couldn't haul a
30 foot boat or the big Bronco safely--they would zig-zag all over the road
even with dual friction stabilizers, especially the 34-feet overall
boat-and-trailer. With the equalizer hitch leveling the frame there was only
about 2 inches of wheel travel left, which played havoc with the front wheel
alignment. 60 (rear) and 90 (front) psi in the airbags brings everything
back to stock ride height, restoring control, and restoring front wheel
alignment. Of course, with the bags inflated and no load on the Bronco, it
is basically like janus says his bus his--beats me to death, handles like
it's on marbles, and basically drives like a C---y. :P

The disadvantage with the air bags is that they wear relatively quickly,
especially if a lot of off-roading is done. Sand is especially nasty to
airbags. But, for me, I need the adjustability and I don't drive the little
Bronco off-road.

On the other hand, a motorhome is ALWAYS loaded, just sometimes more loaded
than others, but within a very narrow range. Adjustability is not such an
issue. The relatively rapid wear (3-4 years front, 8 years rear) factor of
airbags makes steel helper springs a much less expensive and longer-lasting
option than airbags. Here are the numbers (US$) from the JC Whitney
catalogue:

(rear axle only)
Firestone Ride-Rite air bags (the best) 212.98
Air compressor kit 212.98
Dual control air control kit (no T) 154.98
(IMHO, "T"ed fill kits are unsafe)
Total 578.98

On my Bronco I use:
Hellwig rear air bags 179.99
Air Lift front adjustable air springs 62.95
133 db air horn kit 249.95
(also used for "communictating")
(a $20 12 volt compressor will do the trick)
4 brass gas valves assorted fittings, pressure
gauges, to adapt to air horn tanks 35.00

total 527.89

I also use a pair of adustable single-leaf helpers on the back because I
feel the factory rear springs are a bit soft and a bit low on Broncos,
especially since I keep a storage box of tools back there.

On a motorhome, I'd throw on a set of full-length, full-time helper springs
with a 2,500 pound capacity and be done with it. Cost: 187.99.
Alternatively, I'd pull the spring packs and let a spring shock add a leaf
or 2, specifying the increased load capacity and ride height I wanted.

Note that I've said nothing about lift blocks, air shocks, shackles,
shock-mounted overload springs, or coil spring spacers. My experience is
that more lift blocks leads to spring wrap. Air shocks seem to be seriously
under-damped for RV use. Shackles laterally overload the perches and
bushings because of increased leverage. Shock mounts are not designed to
support the vehicle. Coil spring spacers limit compression. In my opinion,
these limits are unsafe and make each of these options unacceptable for
heavy-duty applications.

Now that the springs are sorted out, I'd be looking at some extra-heavy duty
shocks, such as the Gabriel Gas Ryder LTs. I have Red Ryders on my Bronco,
and they work fine. I'll use Gas Ryders when/if I ever need to replace
shocks again. Since a motor home is always loaded, the Bilstein and Koni
adjustability is not an issue. It would be hard to justify the added expense
(about $200 a set) for the minimal gain in ride improvement and control. For
extreme load ranges on pickups, I'd give them a serious look, though. 4X4
shocks such as Heckthorns and Rough Country products have no place on a
motorhome--it isn't what they were designed to do. They are great shocks for
offroad, though.

Anti-sway bars fitted to motorhomes are seriously under-capacity considering
the sidewall area. Once your springs and shocks are sorted out, I'd be
looking for the highest-rate bars I could find, such as Hellwigs. Front and
rear. Mine are set up with adjustable end links. I run them tighter when
towing heavy trailers, and it makes a difference. Adjustments to both sway
bars takes about 10 minutes. Again, adjustability isn't required for a
motorhome.

I'd also seriously consider polyurethane bushings throughout the entire
suspension system. It is amazing how much tighter polyurethane is over
rubber. All 3 of my Broncos have poly bushings. I wouldn't worry about poly
body mounts for 2 reasons: 1) they really raise the road noise level in the
vehicle, and 2) they just are not necessary. I have 3" lift poly body mount
bushings on the big Bronco, and could really tell the increased noise level.
Just make sure the original bushings are in good shape. They seem to last
10-15 years before getting sloppy.

Finally, I'd look into the heaviest duty hydraulic steering stabilizers I
could find. Due to the high center of gravity of a motor home, even dual
units are not overkill. If you ever have a front tire blow out on the
interstate in heavy traffic, once you get off the road and safely stopped,
you'll climb under the truck and kiss these suckers.

Bob, I hope this info helps in your decision-making.

Ken

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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 11:52:50 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clear tail light lenses

according to the DOT office located in
>Atlanta, "the clear style taillight lenses are acceptable as long as the
>BULBS inside the housings are red in color and are of a comparable wattage
>to
>the stock bulbs".
>Later
>Wayne Foy

This sounds okay to me, Wayne, but I've never seen a set with red bulbs. The
ones I've seen either had clear, amber, or none at all, even one idiot
around here with green bulbs (on a green C---y). I think some yoyos have
halogen bulbs behind their white lenses, too--they are blinding at night.

IMHO, opaque tailight covers and flat black paint over stencils on the
inside of a lens are more of a problem than clear lenses with red bulbs
would be, but again, I've never seen the clear/red combo.

Ken

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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 14:24:09 -0600
From: Andy Norris
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clear tail light lenses

>IMHO, opaque tailight covers and flat black paint over stencils on the
>inside of a lens are more of a problem than clear lenses with red bulbs
>would be, but again, I've never seen the clear/red combo.
>
>Ken

And that's not to mention the "shades" they put on their headlights... I
see those and just think "???".

Andy
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 12:33:50 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Is this legal?

>I wonder about those blue neon license plate frames? I have also seen blue
>neon running boards.
>

Blake,

Our friendly local shools officer gave me the lowdown on auxilary lighting.
Here's what it boils down to:

As long as the mandated turn, clearance, stop, and headlights emit the
correct colors of light, the lenses are at least the mandated surface area
and meet the beam pattern requirements, and the lumens generated fall
between specified minimum and maximum levels, how you meet those
requirements and what other lights you add are up to you.

Clear taillights with red bulbs for tail and stop, red or amber for turn are
acceptable. The problem is: red reflectors are also required. White
reflectors, though not illegal to display, are not going to meet the
requirement. The officer's suggestion: a pair of red bicycle reflectors
tucked under the bumper a few inches. He also said reflectors mounted on the
back of the rear axle or in the back window are acceptable. The laws require
the reflectors be visible from so many feet behind the truck, not that the
reflectors be mounted on the back of the vehicle. He even mentioned that
reflective tape on undercarriage parts would meet the requirement.

Blue is out, completely, for lights and reflectors.

Red can not be visible when standing in front of the vehicle, nor can red be
displayed directly to the side from the front half of a vehicle. This goes
for reflectors, too. Under-car lights mounted behind the front axle will
usually be ignored because they don't really shine forward that much. At
night, the headlights make the under-cars undetectable, though technically,
they are illegal. But then, so are the factory taillights if it is dark
enpugh to see red behind the vehicle when standing in front of the vehicle.

Roof-mounted driving lights are illegal. Any light over 55 watts is illegal.

Also, you can only operate 6 white lights from the front of a vehicle at the
same time. This means 4 headlights and a set of driving lights. You can not
operate white lights shining backwards while in forward motion. You can
mount additional white back-up lights, and use them when backing up or
parked.

You can have any additional lights you want on your vehicle, as long as you
have the required lights. Just don't turn them on when operating the vehicle
on a public road. The rules do not specify the physical structure of the
lights, just the actual characteristics of the light emitted. In fact the
officer's own 79 F150 has BLUE headlights that emit a white beam. They are
legal.

These rules apply to lights inside the vehicle, too. Keep the blue lava lamp
off while cruising. Things could be different where you live.

Ken

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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 12:59:46 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - R/V

There is also a oak console on top of the engine cover that
>won't allow the cover to raise up far enough to come out easily.
>Once the cover is off ,1/4 of the parts are accessible from inside 1/4
>from underneath ,1/4 from up front and the other 1/4 a combo.
>Glad it is a Ford so I rarely have to work on it.

Yup, but your folks are smart enough to make you work on it. Hint: sometimes
it is easier to remove one or both of the captain's chairs. It's a hassle,
but saves the back.
>
> >Not a single rig was
> >without workmanship problems, and all were bought new. Some were
> >downright dangerous.
>
>
>It has also been my family's experience that all RVs have workmanship
>problems and the cheapest and the most expensive are the worst.
>If you are buying new the dealer is probably more important than the
>brand.A reputable dealer will go over the rig with a fine tooth comb
>before delivery where as a crooked dealer will give it to you fresh off
>the truck,take your money and possibly file bankruptcy before your
>warranty expires have found RV dealers make car dealers look like saints
>in regards to warranty work.

Absolutely!!! A good dealer is worth her weight in gold. Yup, ours is
female. Experienced RVers choose a new rig, then compare dealer reputations
before plunking down the cash. The dealers know each other--if you're 1500
miles from home and something goes awry, a quick call to your dealer will
get you in touch with the nearest good dealer, not necessarily the nearest
dealer. Once a good dealer learns to trust you, he will even give you his
home number for emergencies.
>
>
>
> >They consider Jaycos and Rockwoods to have the best workmanship in the
> >industry. They have "no comment" about all the Fleetwood brands
>
>
>We have had good luck with Jayco and
>Kit products.No comment on my old Fleetwood.

I hear you!

Ken

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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 18:17:49 -0500 (EST)
From: Ken Woods
Subject: FTE 80-96 - U-joint replacement

Hey all,

Installed my suspension lift yesterday and today.
Everything went well, except for the needle bearings falling out of the u
joint on the front driveshaft. That wasn't so much fun.

So, anyhow I've got the get that fixed, except I don't know (A) How to do
it, and (B) don't know of anyplace to take it to have it done.

eh, Help?

I'm in Laurel, MD.
I know that there are several of us from the Ford lists that are in the
Baltimore/DC area, and pretty much everybody on the OCC list is, so can
anybody offer suggestions on someplace to take the driveshaft to have the
u-joints replaced?? That, or offer guidance and a garage and a press and
whatever else I'm going to need??

Thanks all.

- --
Ken Woods
kwoods

kens.com
'89 F-250 - www.kens.com/truckpics

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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 18:15:13 -0400
From: joe delaurentis
Subject: FTE 80-96 - how many oxygen sensors

Group
is it 1 or 2 oxygen sensors on a 5.8 truck motor???

- --
Joe
68 4x4 390 c6- Np 205 Dana 44 with Disc Brakes,
Since Ford Didn't build em this way in 68, I'll make my own!

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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 15:49:22 -0800
From: Rob Bryan
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - how many oxygen sensors

Depends on the year. OBD-I trucks generally have one (located in a balance
tube right before the y-pipe turns from 2 pipes to 1). SEFI/MAF OBD-I motors
may have 2, located in the exhaust manifolds, but I have never seen one of
these so I can not be sure. OBD-II trucks ('96) have 4 I believe. 2 in the
manifolds, plus one before and one after the cat.

Rob
'90 Bronco
'90 PGT

> From: joe delaurentis
> Reply-To: 80-96-list

ford-trucks.com
> Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 18:15:13 -0400
> To: new trucklist
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - how many oxygen sensors
>
> Group
> is it 1 or 2 oxygen sensors on a 5.8 truck motor???
>
>
> --
> Joe
> 68 4x4 390 c6- Np 205 Dana 44 with Disc Brakes,
> Since Ford Didn't build em this way in 68, I'll make my own!
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 23:59:02 GMT
From: "shannon hoyt"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Speaking of leagality

Hey Guys,
A quick FYI. This is Shannon Hoyt. I am a volunteer Firefighter here in
Iowa and I want to inform you guys, that blue lights are legal for an
emergency service personel and their vehicles. The catch is, that they need
to be some type of emergency technichian, with a state certificate signed
off by the person and his/her Fire Dept. Chief, or Medical Manager. Plus the
vehicle must only use it when responding to some type of call. Any other
type of mis-use with it, and you look at a giant fine, and the revoking of
the certificate. Not to mention any other type of penalty that the state
might put on you.
As for the pin-striping and neon plates, from what I heard, the rules are
just like the last gentlemans e-mail. Everything gets unplugged or
dismantled while it's getting inspected. Then they just put everything back
on when the state is done looking over the vehicle. Why some of these guys
aren't getting tickets while the stuff is on the cars, I don't know? The
cops must just be in good moods!!

Shannon Hoyt
Cedar Rapids,
Iowa.

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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 17:03:04 PST
From: "Christopher Worley"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - TSB

This may be a stupid question but I will ask it anyway, is there a site on
the net where you can view Technical Service Bullitens on ford trucks for
free, I was informed of Alldata.com but they want to sell it to you, if you
ask me Ford needs to give this away, but that is my opinion.

TIA
Chris

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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 17:33:32 -0800
From: "S.Harkema"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Colored lights

A friend of mine has a real nice Peterbilt.He took the plastic lenes out
of the markers on the cab and replaced them with glass lenes.
The glass lenes are much brighter and a little "oranger" than the
plastic.He has been pulled over 4 times in the last year because of the
lights,but never ticketed just hasseled (log book etc.)The lenes have
the D.O.T stamp on them which the cops actualy check.
Bottom line is even if it's legal it does not mean you won't be stopped.
BTW the last thing I want to do is start the "Good Cop Bad Cop" thread
again,
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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 21:28:11 EST
From: LGRanch

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Is this legal?

I have been reding these comments about lense colors and reflectors. Ll I can
say is that what ever the law says in NY, just about anything goes. I had
blue dots in the tail lenses of my Bronco for years. It passed inspection
every year without any comment. I have seen just about everything from Blue
neon to small slits for the tail lights.

While none of this may be legal, no one gets tickets or fails to pass
inspection. Law or not no one seems to care.

For the record I am not in a rural setting or even a small city. The area has
more thn 1.5 million people.
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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 21:24:51 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Clear tailight lenses.

Wayne wrote:

As far as coloring of the lenses, I dont think that any aftermarket
manufacturer can sell these for vehicles
unless they specify "for offroad or show use only, which none of the ads I
have seen in Truckin' or Sport Truck do.

Just my .02,
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC

I say:

Just look in JC Weekly, it says That Very thing. I'm on a Chevy website
for our '81 El Camino, and import cars are refered to as rice rockets, or
worse. Many of the said rice rockets have these clear lenses on them. Do
you REALLY want to be in any way associated with them????

I really also believe that it is a SAFETY issue!!!

PLEASE NOTE!!! I do not mean to belittle the imports (most made right here
in the USA anyway!)
One of my favorite vehicles ever was a '75 Datsun pickup!!!

Dave H.
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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 22:53:58 EST
From: FULSZBRONC

aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Wide tires and lift kits....legal?

Since we've been on the subject of legal equipment on our rigs, it's
fairly obvious that law enforcement can be spotty on the little things like
reflectors and blue dots, but when push comes to shove, you can believe that
the boys in blue will write up all the infraction they can find any time the
spirit moves them.
In Colorado, it's against the law to modify your suspension in any way
(including lift kits), and it is enforced. When tickets are written, it's
usually because of injuries caused by excessive bumper heights, blinding
headlights at night, or when the vehicle ''looks'' unsafe. It's also a
ticketing offense for tires to extend outside of the body - this gets
enforced a little more regularly, but it's mostly the ''rice boys'' that get
gigged for it. Check you local statutes, you may also find that those nifty
smoke colored headlight covers are illegal... they are not illegal to own
here, just illegal to be on the vehicle when operated at night.

Alex
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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 21:40:21 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
....

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