From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #339
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80-96-list-digest Wednesday, December 1 1999 Volume 03 : Number 339



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - 460 swap
FTE 80-96 - Your massive colletion
FTE 80-96 - An 84 F-350 w/ a crummy motor
RE: FTE 80-96 - What should I look for?
FTE 80-96 - Shift Lever Sticking, E
Re: FTE 80-96 - Preventive maintenance: Replacing the timing chain, gears
Re: FTE 80-96 - Your massive colletion
Re: FTE 80-96 - Shift Lever Sticking, E
RE: FTE 80-96 - Shift Lever Sticking, E
FTE 80-96 - Fords and Propane Attitudes
FTE 80-96 - No Special O2 Sensor Needed
Re: FTE 80-96 - AMP GAUGE
RE: FTE 80-96 - Shift Lever Sticking, E
Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas tanks again
[none]
Re: FTE 80-96 - Seat
FTE 80-96 - Re:
Re: FTE 80-96 - Tach?
FTE 80-96 - Re:
FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96 re:E4OD slow to reverse
FTE 80-96 - Welding on '90 with FI, Other Questions
Re: FTE 80-96 - What should I look for?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Welding on '90 with FI, Other Questions
FTE 80-96 - 93 Ford XLT
FTE 80-96 - Ken's Stable and Stated Value Coverage
Re: FTE 80-96 - Welding on '90 with FI, Other Questions
Re: FTE 80-96 - What should I look for?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Ken's Stable and Stated Value Coverage
Re: FTE 80-96 - 93 Ford XLT

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 07:50:58 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 460 swap

ken haley wrote:
>
> >1987 F150 has a 5.0. Want to swap to a 460. Is it worth doing? Or can it
> >be done?
> >
> >
> >

2nd and third parts of this article deal with swapping in a carbed 460
in an 83 bronco and a 94 EFI, 460/E40D combo into an 89 Bronco
respectively.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.off -road. com /~rjmuir/bigblock.html

OX
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 10:11:43 -0500
From: AM14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Your massive colletion

Ken Haley!!!!

I guess you know all of us are jealous.! How in the world did you manage to
gather such a collection of "Fine Art" in your short lifetime. I'm 62 and find
you with a large amount of collectibles that I could only dream of.

Great collection.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 10:08:04 -0600
From: "Stephen W.Hansen"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - An 84 F-350 w/ a crummy motor

Don't discount the u-joints without taking them apart. Mine and my dad's
both looked good and were tight but each of us had a joint that had nothing
but grit left in 'em
Stephen Hansen
92 F250
50 F-1


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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 11:34:13 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - What should I look for?

Mike,

Used trucks of this type vary in cost significantly. Depending on the
condition of the body or the motor. But you should be able to find a good
running, bottom of the line, 80-85 F150 for that price, with some body
damage or poor paint, that would do nicely and easily handle your
landscaping materials. A 300, 6 cylinder engine, which is the smallest and
less expensive, would be perfect. A manual 3 or 4 speed transmission would
be my choice but a A4OD or C6 will work if you prefer automatic
transmissions. Just be prepared for a little more trouble with an older
automatic if you choose to go that way. Shop around and you will be
surprised at the deals you can get on a truck of this kind. Just look for
the newest one with a good drive train you can find for the price. Otherwise
you will have fork out more cash to fix the engine, drive train, and
suspension and the cost could go above your budget.

Good Luck!
Scott

- -----Original Message-----
From: MykeSS aol.com [SMTP:MykeSS aol.com]

Hi folks:

I'm new to the list, but glad I found you. I'm in the market for a pick up
truck that I can use to haul mulch, dirt, gravel, and other various and
sundry stuff you wouldn't put in a car. I'd like to spend no more than
$2500
at the very, very most. What years and models should I look for and with
what engines and transmission? Thanx in advance.

Mike Schell-Smith
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 11:45:28 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Shift Lever Sticking, E

Has anyone had a problem with the column shifter sticking when you attempt
to put it in park? At first you don't notice it until you turn the ignition
off and the key will not turn all the way until you give the shift lever a
little push after turning the key slightly. I figure it is in the column and
could be that the key lock mechanism is damaged. It is a '95 F150 XLT and
this has been a problem since I bought it used three years ago. Any idea of
the solution or cost would be most helpful also.

Thanks,
Scott
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 11:25:49 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Preventive maintenance: Replacing the timing chain, gears

>My brother-in-law just had some timing work done on his 300-6 (then burned
>out #5 piston).
>Anyway, it got me thinking. As more of our vehicles go over 100,000 miles,
>(mine runs great still, 105,000) wouldn't it be a thought to change the
>timing chain/gears before they go bad? Then in a truck magazine I read
>somewhere it recommended to do just that. Consider how much stress is on
>that area, and how important it is.
>I decided that when I change my water pump (it's still original too) and I
>take all the time to get into the area, all the brackets off to access it,
>I'm going to go ahead and put a new gear/chain set in. As long as my truck
>still has good oil pressure and compression, it may just keep it alive
>longer.
>Stephen Hansen
>92 F250
>50 F-1
>
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Stephen,

This is a good idea, like putting in a throwout bearing whenever a ckutch
goes in.

In my younger days I worked as a fleet mechanic for a taxi company. Timing
sets were replaced ever 75K. They were Checkers with 283, 292, and 350
C-----s, and of 225 vehicles, only one slipped time, and it had only 12xx
miles on it. Many of these cars were run 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, for
months, stopping only for service. Some had over 1 000 000 miles on them.

Ken

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 11:42:12 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Your massive colletion

>
>
>Ken Haley!!!!
>
>I guess you know all of us are jealous.! How in the world did you manage
>to
>gather such a collection of "Fine Art" in your short lifetime. I'm 62 and
>find
>you with a large amount of collectibles that I could only dream of.
>
>Great collection.
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.

Azie,

I worked my way through college the first time brokering specialty vehicles
in Miami, Florida, in the 70s. No one wanted gas hogs. Two year old Lincolns
with low miles in showroom condition were going for $1 000. Crunch the
numbers and compare a $1 000, 12 MPG Lincoln, and a $5 000, 22 MPG Mazda.
Add in $800 a year more insurance bills for the more theft-prone, more
expensive to repair Mazda. Drive 12 000 miles a year in each. How long must
you keep the car before the Mazda pays off. Don't forget the 12.5 % TAX FREE
interest I was drawing on $4 000 in municipal bonds, either.

increased fuel costs for the Lincoln per year $1/gallon
1200 difference
deduct for increased cost of insurance
400 difference
deduct for interest earned on $4 000
-100 difference

Net: it cost $100 a year MORE to drive the economy car. Give me the Lincoln,
and the Cougar, and the Z-28, and the ZL1, .... And IF you could get Mazda
parts, they were triple the cost of the Lincoln parts.

Ken

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 11:52:16 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Shift Lever Sticking, E

>Has anyone had a problem with the column shifter sticking when you attempt
>to put it in park? At first you don't notice it until you turn the ignition
>off and the key will not turn all the way until you give the shift lever a
>little push after turning the key slightly. I figure it is in the column
>and
>could be that the key lock mechanism is damaged. It is a '95 F150 XLT and
>this has been a problem since I bought it used three years ago. Any idea of
>the solution or cost would be most helpful also.
>
>Thanks,
>Scott

Scott,

This could be a problem with adjustment. First, make sure the shifter is
adjusted properly, then adjust the ignition switch a bit. My 83 Broncos all
have slots on the ignition switches for such adjustments. I was able to eek
a couple of extra years out a switch acting as yours does by adjusting it,
but it eventually had to be replaced.

Ken

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 13:11:17 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Shift Lever Sticking, E

Thanks Ken,

Your knowledge of Ford trucks never ceases to amaze me. I assume when you
say sift lever adjustment you mean the linkage adjustment to the
transmission. Or is there another adjustment some where? The pointer on the
dash that shows the gear is right on the mark so I assumed it was adjusted
as best it could be. The key switch adjustment I knew nothing about, I will
check that first off since it is easiest to deal with. It never has gotten
worse or better so the chance of a simple adjustment fixing the problem
seems likely.

Sorry about the typo on the subject line, although the dollar sign on the
E4OD seems appropriate considering what I have read on this list.

Scott



- -----Original Message-----
From: ken haley [SMTP:teacherdad hotmail.com]

Scott,

This could be a problem with adjustment. First, make sure the shifter is
adjusted properly, then adjust the ignition switch a bit. My 83 Broncos all

have slots on the ignition switches for such adjustments. I was able to eek
a couple of extra years out a switch acting as yours does by adjusting it,
but it eventually had to be replaced.

Ken

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 14:13:03 -0700
From: Fred Moreno
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fords and Propane Attitudes

Chris wrote:

You just gave me an idea. If I hook a BBQ to my propane tank I can
grill ad
drive! I guess I could always have a hot lunch.

You may laugh (and I laugh with you) but that's almost what we did on that
last trip into the Gila Wilderness. We didn't drive and cook at the same
time, but we did tap into the Vapor fitting on my tank and fired up a grill
for some down right fancy cooking in the middle of the wilderness. I've got
a portable Ducane grill that unfolds, one half is a regular BBQ grill, the
other half has two burners.

But now back to our regularly scheduled program;
Your truck probably has the factory Ford TFI-IV system because in '84 is
when the first ones started to show up. A lot of '84 trucks still had the
Duraspark system with a carburetor but it was being fazed out. By '85 just
about all F-150's had the TFI-IV.

So now what? Try disconnecting your SPOUT connector and let's see if your
TFI-IV module is about to bite the big one (maybe). The SPOUT connector on
your truck is located on the TFI-IV harness just a few inches away from the
module. The module is that flat looking thingy protruding from the
distributor (dizzy for those on the other side of the equator). If you have
never had the timing checked, its probably still taped up on the harness.
Anyways unplug the connector, yours being the early style is going to be
like a large insulated bullet connector. I would drive the truck around the
block (or whatever was necessary to make the tach misbehave just don't go
too far, your catalyst won't like you) and see how the tach responds. If it
starts to work great, your TFI-IV module is most likely the culprit.
Don't expect too much performance while driving with the SPOUT
disconnected, you have no timing advance. While you're at it, double check
your timing, should be about 10 degrees BTDC, maybe 12 degrees if you are at
fairly higher altitude than most commoners.

Otherwise, has any major work been done on the truck, I ask because
sometimes people leave such trivial things like ground straps off. I mean
what purpose can a ground strap serve besides hold the transmission or frame
in place should it get loose, right?
Computerized system (and your truck is such) depend on very small signals
usually less than 2 Volts DC. The lack of ground straps (or just those that
have deteriotated) has caused weirder things to happen. Check to see if your
tranny, frame, etc is strapped in well and good contacts exist.

Factory Ford tach should not behave in the manner you described, just need
to figure out if its being triggered by an external signal or if its the
actual tach that's bad.

I am sure other folks will jump into this one with us.

Phred
1995 F-150 4X4, 5.0L, 5-slotted stick, LPG, sprayed on bed liner (best
investment besides oil changes), 11m radio and combination 2m/70cm radio,
have spot for a 6m rig. One day I will conquer the dits and dahs.
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 14:44:58 -0700
From: Fred Moreno
Subject: FTE 80-96 - No Special O2 Sensor Needed

Roderick questioned Chris (and Phred buttes in);

Chris:
i see you have a 351 running on propane, i have aquetion for you:I
own a
300ci. 6cil. 1994 f 150, as fuel is $4.40 per gal. I have changed it
to
propane
does such thing like a special O2 sensor exist for propane running
trucks ,
because since mine has been running on propane it has afected my O2
sensor
and the check engine light has been going on,Is there any thing else
i shoul
change on the truck to get a better performance on my truck

thanks
Roderick
94 flare side

The reason you are getting O2 sensor codes and illuminating the Check Engine
light (MIL for Malfunction Indicator Light) is because your propane fuel
delivery system is not set up correctly. The Ford computer does not agree
with some of the readings detected by your oxygen sensor. We can probably
remedy this situation. Do you have a digital voltmeter?
What type of system are you using? Impco, Nolff, or some of the European
injection system?
I'll be glad to help out a fellow propane powered Ford owner if I can, let
me know what type of system you have and any electronic boxes too.
I guess you are not in the El Paso metropolitan area since here gasoline is
$1.23/gallon and you are paying a little too much for gasoline. Europe
maybe?

Ta-ta for now

Phred
La Union NM/El Paso TX
1995 F-150 4X4, 5.0L, 5-speed, IMPCO 300, OHG X-2, Manchester tank 12X12X60
with 162K miles and going strong!

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Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 08:56:39 +1100
From: les williams
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AMP GAUGE

Ken,
My apologies for the misunderstanding. When I said 'Two' I was thinking along
the lines of the number in One Truck - not One Private Fleet. ;-))

regards

Les
Lost in the Land of OZ

ken haley wrote:

> >
> >BTW: OK - Ken, I'll bite, Why three?
> >
> >Regards
> >
> >Les
> >Lost in the land of OZ
> >
>
> Why 3? 3 Broncos, of course.
>
> 83 Bronco #1 302 Performer, Mustang GT shorties, SROD, hydraulic clutch
> linkage (to clear the headers), 3.55, 31/10.50R15 Also P295/50R15 for towing
>
> 83 Bronco #2 460 Performer, Pro-jection, C6, 203, 4.88 Dana 60/70, 9 inch
> lift, 44/18.5-16.5
>
> 83 Bronco #3 302 Performer, C4, 2wd, 3.55, 275/50R17 (I think) (My son's
> truck--lowered so his sweety can get in like a lady after she was crippled
> by a drunk driver)
>
> The rest of my corral:
>
> 81 F150, 300, C4, wrecked
>
> 86 Mustang LX hatchback, 460 TwistedWedge, Richmond Gear 4+1, 3.55 9 inch,
> P245/50R16 frt, P305/45R16 rear, GT suspension, SIS brakes, Konis,
> polyurethane bushings
>
> 86 Mustang LX convertible, 302 Performer, C4, 3.08, P245/50R16, daughter's
> daily driver.
>
> 93 Mustang LX convertible, 2.3 FI (turbo longblock) Paxton supercharger,
> autoOD (why it is still alive is a mystery to me), don't know which, 4.10
> 8.8, lowered 2 front, 1 rear, GT brakes, McCloed sway bars, polyurethane
> bushings, high-effort steering box, Konis, subframe connectors and tower
> braces, 8 point cage, 225/50R16. (This 4-banger eats GTs, Camaros, Vettes
> and Porsches in the autocrosses--absolutely the most fun car in the world on
> a tight, twisty paved road, 28 MPG highway, 123 mph with the top down.)
>
> 70 Cougar Eliminator XR-7 convertible, SCJ 428, 4 spd, 3.90 Drag Pack
>
> Prisoners of war:
>
> 69 Camaro Z-28 hardtop, Series 4 (factory Trans Am series intended car),
> factory blueprinted 302, M-22, 3.70 12 bolt, factory crossram with AFBs,
> headers and dumps, and safety tubes installed, carpeting, heater, back seat
> deleted. P235-60R15 Never raced side-by-side. This is the only Chevy worth
> owning, because it has a 302. I've run this car in autocross for years.
> Never lost in factory stock class, many overall wins in modified street with
> only wheel/tire change. Eats late model Cobras (even SVO-351s) alive.
> Consistently beaten only by a certain 93 Mustang.
>
> 69 Corvette ZL1 hardtop, 427 aluminum engine, side collector headers, M-22,
> 3.23, L-88 roadracing package. Delete heater, carpet. P275-50R15 Another
> factory race-intended car. Too much tire smoke for autocross, though that's
> what I bought it for. Big enough tires to stick would have required cutting
> the fenders. No way. I've run this monster At Road Atlanta, Daytona Road
> Course, and Sebring at oldtimers events. This thing will cruise all day at
> 155. A crowd favorite, but really an overrated piece of crap.
>
> 73 Trans Am, 455 SD, M-21, 3.70 12-bolt (broke the stock 10 bolt)
>
> 86 S10, SB, 455 Olds W-30, Offenhouser intake w/ 2 AFB, TH 4.75, 3.23 in the
> bed. P235R60R15 front, P295/50R15 rear. This is my daughter's toy. She
> bought it (blown tranny, no engine), and a crashed 70 Toronado for $200. She
> had less than $1000 in it, and was driving to school, with the stock engine.
> W-30 parts salvaged from a wrecked Cutlass in a friend's yard, free. Rebuild
> driveline, suspension, brakes, wheels, tires, paint, interior (all by the
> munchkin, except the welding) another $2000. Nor bad, for a girl. Anything
> with a pair of 4 barrels and marine headers and mufflers sticking out of the
> bed cover is cool in my book.
>
> Ancient history:
>
> 1969 Honda CB 750 Four. Showroom condition. 1342 miles.
>
> 1974 Honda XL-125, Yoshimura magnesium jug and head, 6 speed, Powerol
> stroker, Bassani TDSQ, Keihin diaghram from CB 450. Redline flat track
> frame, with lights. This bike held the World Speed record for 125 CC open
> for 2 years, 138 mph, ridden by a 12 year old girl. Now is a 160 CC with
> stroker crank-.060 factory piston, and a sweet ride for a quick trip to
> school--on the back wheel.
>
> 1974 Honda CB 750 K4, Yoshimura head, RC stroker, Rickman roadrace chassis.
> This bike and I parted company at Daytona at 160 mph when the front tire
> blew. Damage to bike: front fender gone, scuffed hand grip and paint when it
> rolled to almost a stop and fell over. Damage to me: 2nd degree burns on
> hands, chest, and thighs from the friction of leather and pavement, broken
> jaw. Still ridden occasionally to teach the CB600Rs a thing or 2. Got a
> problem with the 900s, though.
>
> 1974 Honda CB 750 K4, Windjammer fairing and bags, solo seat, rack and back
> rest. MP3 player/tuner with 192 megs, cell phone and chatterbox interfaced,
> this is my daily rider, 197000 miles, never had the head off, never been
> dropped.
>
> 1975 Honda CB 500 T, soft tail chopper engineering exercise, long before
> Milwalkie thought of a soft tail. 10 over springer. So wierd even the old
> Harley riders grin, they don't know what the heck it is, but it looks and
> sounds good. Still ridden on charity rides and poker runs. These torsion bar
> heads turn 12,000 rpm, with the right cams, and leave all but the most
> modified Harleys in the dust. Of course, at 12K it sounds Japanese, and the
> old Harley guys don't like it as much anymore.
>
> 99 MTD 20 inch pushmower, 3.75 Briggs, adjustable wheels.
>
> 1951 insurance lady who understands, bless her. She gives me stated value
> coverage at a great price. No claims in 30 years, knock on wood.
>
> Ken
>
> ______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 15:25:10 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Shift Lever Sticking, E

Scott,

I'm not for sure the adjustment on the late models, but the procedure I
always follow on column-mounted shifters is to put the trans in neutral by
manipulating the lever on the trans. Then I monkey the linkage so that the
indicator is in neutral. Some linkages have adjustments, some you just have
to "adjust" with a well-consedered bend somewhere. Then the neutral safety
switch is adjusted, using an ohm meter to be sure every position will or
won't work as intended. Then I worry about adjusting the ignition/shifter
interlock. Finally, the last thing is the igniton switch. On my truck, it
was the switch. YMMV.

I was discussing your symptoms with a student (whose dad IS a Ford dealer)
and his 97 F350 did the same thing, but every time. The detent was worn on
the selector, allowing the lever to slip down. The truck has almost 100K on
it, though.

Good luck,
Ken

>Thanks Ken,
>
>Your knowledge of Ford trucks never ceases to amaze me. I assume when you
>say sift lever adjustment you mean the linkage adjustment to the
>transmission. Or is there another adjustment some where? The pointer on the
>dash that shows the gear is right on the mark so I assumed it was adjusted
>as best it could be. The key switch adjustment I knew nothing about, I will
>check that first off since it is easiest to deal with. It never has gotten
>worse or better so the chance of a simple adjustment fixing the problem
>seems likely.
>
>Sorry about the typo on the subject line, although the dollar sign on the
>E4OD seems appropriate considering what I have read on this list.
>
>Scott
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: ken haley [SMTP:teacherdad hotmail.com]
>
>Scott,
>
>This could be a problem with adjustment. First, make sure the shifter is
>adjusted properly, then adjust the ignition switch a bit. My 83 Broncos
>all
>
>have slots on the ignition switches for such adjustments. I was able to eek
>a couple of extra years out a switch acting as yours does by adjusting it,
>but it eventually had to be replaced.
>
>Ken
>
>______________________________________________________
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>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 19:22:15 -0500
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas tanks again

Nope. I thought about it, but I didn't want to spend the extra money.
I hope to replace the truck with a shiny new one in the spring.
Hopefully I won't lose two pumps between now and then.

Steve

"Harris, Scott" wrote:
>
> Changing those intank pumps while you are there right? Be a bummer to
> change the tanks out just to change the pumps next year.....just a
> thought.......
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: S Spaulding [mailto:ss80xt worldnet.att.net]
> Sent: Sunday, November 28, 1999 7:26 PM
> To: ford trucks
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Gas tanks again
>
> I ended up having to replace BOTH gas tanks, because both were rotted
> out. The rear one was a b***h. I had to remove the class IV receiver,
> the tire, and cut off the Dynomax tailpipes (sounds pretty good with the
> pipes cut off 3" behind the muffler!). The spare tire doesn't look too
> healthy... the rubber sort of bulges where it was in constant contact
> with the gas.
>
> I ended up just calling my NAPA guy to get the tanks, since I have an
> account there, and I have no time to go shopping. The cost: $110 for
> the rear, and $125 for the front, plus I bought new straps.
>
> I guess it's time for the brake lines to start blowing. Time for some
> black duct tape on the rear fenders, tailgate and hood, too.
>
> Steve Spaulding
> '91 F150 4x4 - getting lighter every day.
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------------------------------

Date: 30 Nov 99 17:23:06 PST
From: Robert Moffatt
Subject: [none]

Can someone please help me understand how an engine works. I'm trying to
figure out how to use the frequency measuring capability of my Digital
multimeter to measure the RPM of my engine and have come to find that I'm=
not
sure what RPM refers to.

So ... what does RPM refer to? Is it the rotation of the crankshaft, or =
is it
the rotation the camshaft. Doesn't the cam spin at half the speed of the=

crankshaft. Then i think that the distributer spins at the same rotation=
al
speed as the cam.

____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.netaddress.com/?N=3D=
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 20:55:54 EST
From: Spruce1495 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Seat

Chris,
I have a '93 F-150 SC and bought it new with the full bench seat in
it. I did not order the vehicle so I'm assuming it was an installed option
from factory. It completely folds down flat for tool boxes, whatever. I
carpeted the backs of the bench and back rest so nothing slides around.
Happy Hunting.
Bill Browning, Radcliff, KY
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 19:52:48 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:

At 17:23 30/11/99 PST, you wrote:
>Can someone please help me understand how an engine works. I'm trying to
>figure out how to use the frequency measuring capability of my Digital
>multimeter to measure the RPM of my engine and have come to find that I'm not
>sure what RPM refers to.

RPM is revolutions per minute. It is normally of the crankshaft. You can
measure the signal frequency of the distributor and double the RPM that you
calculate to get engine RPM, if you want.

>So ... what does RPM refer to? Is it the rotation of the crankshaft, or
is it
>the rotation the camshaft. Doesn't the cam spin at half the speed of the
>crankshaft. Then i think that the distributer spins at the same rotational
>speed as the cam.
>

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 20:59:04 EST
From: Spruce1495 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Tach?

Chris it sounds like a bad ground connection. Try cleaning the surface where
it is grounded and apply a little vaseline to the area then reconnect.
Good Luck.
Bill B.
Radcliff,KY
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 21:11:43 EST
From: Spruce1495 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:

RPM equates to crankshaft revolutions. (revolutions per minute)
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 18:13:54 -0800
From: acor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96 re:E4OD slow to reverse

Hi folks - I am new to the list (and this email stuff) I have a '91 F250
4x4 with a 302, E4OD, 4.10 rear end and tow package. Original owner and now
have 17000 miles (that's right - 17000) on it!
The slow shift into reverse with early E4OD's is normal due to the low
capacity pump which was changed to a higher capacity in about '95 to solve
this.
Suggest anyone with an E4OD visit www.baumannengineering.com website for
more info. They have a list of suggested upgrades to do with any overhaul -
especially pre '95's.
In the 9 years I have had this truck, I have never had a problem (except
one flat tire) but since most auto tranny failures are due to heat, I have
recently bought an add-on cooler and temperature gauge and will install
these before I do any more heavy trailer towing.

Al Cornish acornish aebc.com
Vancouver, BC

1991 F250 4x4
1999 Saturn SL1



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 20:25:27 -0700
From: "Jim Velasquez"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Welding on '90 with FI, Other Questions

I have some more questions regarding the '90 that I just picked up.

It is a cab+chassis, and I've been looking at several options and have
almost made up my mind to go with a flat bed. This will likely involve
welding the bed on, and I'm curious what precautions need to be taken when
working with a (what's the Ford Multi-Point Fuel Injection system called??).

Also, this thing has a ride firmness that is rougher than ANY vehicle I've
EVER ridden in. I suspect that in its previous life, which had a
**MONSTER** Toolbox/ Compressor/ Welder installed (figure at least 4000Lbs,
never left an airport) that this was appropriate, but now I'd like to soften
it up a bit. The drive from MI to CO was HARSH! I don't want to destroy
its ability to carry loads, but there has got to be some reasonable middle
ground. Suggestions?

Thanks to those who helped decode the VIN for me, that was a BIG help.

- -Jim Velasquez

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 20:48:10 -0800
From: "Mark Behling"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What should I look for?

>Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 21:08:30 PST
>From: "ken haley"
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What should I look for?
>
>Mike,
>
>Unless you get very lucky, $2500 won't buy much these days. sometimes
>reality bites.
>
>Alternative: Put a hitch and tranny cooler on your car, and pick up a
>utility trailer sized to what your car can carry. This option is especially
>attractive if you only haul occasionaly. I've seen trailers for that fold up
>on casters and take very little room in the garage. Maybe $300 new. Your
>insurance will cost that much on a truck.
>
>I picked up a folding trailer at a yard sale for $50, bought 3 new tires for
>$75, repacked the bearings, and still have it after 15 years. Back then I
>pulled it with a 74 Duster, 225 slant 6. It carried a 1/2 ton load easily.
>Now the kids use it to haul a john boat down to the pond and back with a 4
>wheeler.
>
>Save your bucks until you can get a real nice truck, then use the trailer to
>keep from marring the truck.
>
>Ken


Trailers may be an economical alternative to a truck, but here in California the
maximum legal speed limit is 55 MPH with a trailer. Which makes a mighty slow drive if
you adhere to the law (which most Semi's don't), and then there is the parking
problem.....

Mark
San Diego, CA
'96 F150 I6 5sp


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 00:07:09 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Welding on '90 with FI, Other Questions

>I have some more questions regarding the '90 that I just picked up.
>
>It is a cab+chassis, and I've been looking at several options and have
>almost made up my mind to go with a flat bed. This will likely involve
>welding the bed on, and I'm curious what precautions need to be taken when
>working with a (what's the Ford Multi-Point Fuel Injection system called??).

I have welded on mine with no special precautions or anything unusual.
Don't ground through the computer or weld to the gas tank.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 23:30:14 -0600 (CST)
From: Michael Whities
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 93 Ford XLT

Hey all,

I was on the list aboutt a year ago, but only for a couple of days. I'm
looking to invest a few bucks (around 2.000 or so) into the performace
area.

Thinking of possibly changing the spark pug wires and distribitor and
whatever else will go with that. Maybe even adding a Stage 1 computer
chip.

I was wondering what would be the best parts to get, while trying to save
money to. I don't want to yank the engine out, but I do want to add "bo;t
on horsepower" or something like that. What could I do to get the most out
of my engine?

Also, I would like to add a sport package to it. I was wondering if the
package off the Lightning wuold wotk or if someone knew of a better one. I
would also like to lower the truck to. Not slam it but lower it to 1) give
it a better looking stance, 2) so it can handle curves better and won't
have that "roll" in it.

What would be a good exhaust system to put on it. I was thinking maybe
some kind of H-pipe with Flowmasters. Any ideas or what brands to
get/look at?

It's a 93 Ford XLT. It has the 302 5.0 engine. I upgraded to BFGoodrich
tires. Otherwise, everything else is stil stock.

If everyone would, either directly or over the list, give me ideas or
opinions and possibly what products to get, not to get.

BTW, I'm glade I'm back.

Michael

Michael D. Whities
bigmike netdoor.com
uidzero nubs.one-arm.com

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.one-arm.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://nubs.one-arm.com



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 01:02:12 -0500
From: "Mark Salvetti"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Ken's Stable and Stated Value Coverage

Geez Ken, that's quite a collection! How many square feet of storage space
do you need?!?!?

At the bottom, you mentioned that you had an understanding agent that
provided you stated value insurance coverage. You actually may be luckier
than you think that you haven't had any claims.

In most (all?) states, stated value coverage is virtually useless to the
policy holder. The reason is that the insurance company pays you the stated
value or book value, at THEIR option. I know this makes no sense. Why
would anyone call this stated value coverage? But I'm positive this is true
here in Massachusetts (looked into it extensively for my Porsche), and
likely elsewhere based on emails from an insurer on another list.

What you want is AGREED value coverage, and there are very few, mostly
specialty insurers that offer this. You might want to double-check with
your agent, or maybe even go higher and speak to an underwriter to be sure.
But I'm pretty sure you'll be disappointed with the results of a claim on a
stated value policy. I'd be interested in hearing what your insurance
company has to say.

I can try and find more details if anyone's interested.

Mark Salvetti
1986 F150 5.0L

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 21:59:30 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Welding on '90 with FI, Other Questions

Jim,

It ain't no Lincoln. The more weight the better the ride. If the bed alone
doesn't smooth it out enogh, consider relocating the battery or 2 under the
bed. Batteries are heavy and will greatly improve weight distribution and
ride harshness.

Ken

>I have some more questions regarding the '90 that I just picked up.
>
>It is a cab+chassis, and I've been looking at several options and have
>almost made up my mind to go with a flat bed. This will likely involve
>welding the bed on, and I'm curious what precautions need to be taken when
>working with a (what's the Ford Multi-Point Fuel Injection system
>called??).
>
>Also, this thing has a ride firmness that is rougher than ANY vehicle I've
>EVER ridden in. I suspect that in its previous life, which had a
>**MONSTER** Toolbox/ Compressor/ Welder installed (figure at least 4000Lbs,
>never left an airport) that this was appropriate, but now I'd like to
>soften
>it up a bit. The drive from MI to CO was HARSH! I don't want to destroy
>its ability to carry loads, but there has got to be some reasonable middle
>ground. Suggestions?
>
>Thanks to those who helped decode the VIN for me, that was a BIG help.
>
>-Jim Velasquez
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 22:12:37 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What should I look for?

All choices are compromises, and trailer acquisition and maintenance is much
lower cost than a truck. As for your reference to parking, it takes a mighty
big utility trailer to fill up the driveway space of a truck. Or perhaps you
were referring to backing and such. Well, it's a skill. Takes practice, but
can be done. Truckers do it every day. For the 99% of the time I don't
haul, the Bronco has more room inside the cab than any pickup, and is easier
to park to boot.

I have 4 trailers from 1000 to 9000 pounds GVWR. Landscape materials can be
very dense. It won't take much mulch or topsoil at all to overload an F150.
Perhaps 1/3 the volume of a longbed.

Ken

> >Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 21:08:30 PST
> >From: "ken haley"
> >Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - What should I look for?
> >
> >Mike,
> >
> >Unless you get very lucky, $2500 won't buy much these days. sometimes
> >reality bites.
> >
> >Alternative: Put a hitch and tranny cooler on your car, and pick up a
> >utility trailer sized to what your car can carry. This option is
>especially
> >attractive if you only haul occasionaly. I've seen trailers for that fold
>up
> >on casters and take very little room in the garage. Maybe $300 new. Your
> >insurance will cost that much on a truck.
> >
> >I picked up a folding trailer at a yard sale for $50, bought 3 new tires
>for
> >$75, repacked the bearings, and still have it after 15 years. Back then I
> >pulled it with a 74 Duster, 225 slant 6. It carried a 1/2 ton load
>easily.
> >Now the kids use it to haul a john boat down to the pond and back with a
>4
> >wheeler.
> >
> >Save your bucks until you can get a real nice truck, then use the trailer
>to
> >keep from marring the truck.
> >
> >Ken
>
>
>Trailers may be an economical alternative to a truck, but here in
>California the
>maximum legal speed limit is 55 MPH with a trailer. Which makes a mighty
>slow drive if
>you adhere to the law (which most Semi's don't), and then there is the
>parking
>problem.....
>
>Mark
>San Diego, CA
>'96 F150 I6 5sp
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 22:32:45 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Ken's Stable and Stated Value Coverage

Mark,

My property was a training field for the Army Air Corp before and during WW
II. There are 2 quonset huts with concrete floors 160 X 60 feet, or roughly
half a football field, total. They were used as aircraft repair facilities.
Space is a blessing.

>Geez Ken, that's quite a collection! How many square feet of storage space
>do you need?!?!?
>
I state the value and am billed accordingly. I can only add coverage for the
costs of the parts and machine services, not labor to install the component.
When my big Bronco was rearended by an uninsured motorist (120 miles from
home) both rear tires and wheels were damaged. I called my agent with a cell
phone. She had part numbers and descriptions on file. Before the police were
done investigating she had a wrecker on site with new wheels and tires.
Fortunately for all of us, the drunk that hit me had the cash in his pocket
to pay the bill, so no claim was made to the insurance company. I would have
had to pay for the service all had the drunk not paid the guy. Without
stated value, I would have been reimbursed for stock wheels and tires
instead of SuperTruckers and 44 inch Mudders.

Ken


>At the bottom, you mentioned that you had an understanding agent that
>provided you stated value insurance coverage. You actually may be luckier
>than you think that you haven't had any claims.
>
>In most (all?) states, stated value coverage is virtually useless to the
>policy holder. The reason is that the insurance company pays you the
>stated
>value or book value, at THEIR option. I know this makes no sense. Why
>would anyone call this stated value coverage? But I'm positive this is
....


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