From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #337
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80-96-list-digest Monday, November 29 1999 Volume 03 : Number 337



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Re: AMP GAUGE
RE: FTE 80-96 - An 84 F-350 w/ a crummy motor
FTE 80-96 - 460 swap
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: AMP GAUGE
Re: FTE 80-96 - AMP GAUGE
Re: FTE 80-96 - AMP GAUGE
FTE 80-96 - Jump Seats?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Headers
Re: FTE 80-96 - 460 swap
FTE 80-96 - Is it antifreeze ??
FTE 80-96 - Re: Seat
FTE 80-96 - Re: An 84 F-350 w/ a crummy motor
FTE 80-96 - E40D slow to reverse
FTE 80-96 - RE: '84 F-150 Carb problems.
RE: FTE 80-96 - Tach?
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: '84 F-150 Carb problems.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Jump Seats?
Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D slow to reverse
FTE 80-96 - re: Seats
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Seats
Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D slow to reverse
Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D slow to reverse
Re: FTE 80-96 - fte 80-96 rear fenders
Re: FTE 80-96 - An 84 F-350 w/ a crummy motor
RE: FTE 80-96 - Tach?
Re: FTE 80-96 - 460 swap
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: '84 F-150 Carb problems.
FTE 80-96 - 460 build up
FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96 new here
Re: FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96 new here
Re: FTE 80-96 - AMP GAUGE
Re: FTE 80-96 - AMP GAUGE
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Headers
Re: FTE 80-96 - 460 swap
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: AMP GAUGE
RE: FTE 80-96 - An 84 F-350 w/ a crummy motor
FTE 80-96 - What should I look for?
FTE 80-96 - Intake Reseal - Done!
Re: FTE 80-96 - fte 80-96 rear fenders

=======================================================================

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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 08:08:02 EST
From: MadPoodle aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: AMP GAUGE

>
>At 22:47 28/11/99 -0500, jim wrote:
>
>If this is true, then I think your truck is wired wrong. The guage is only
>supposed to indicate amps going INTO or OUT OF the battery. It is not
>supposed to show total current being used by all devices.

More draw, more charge. Guage reading correctly!

Scott


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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 08:27:02 -0600
From: "Allen Collins"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - An 84 F-350 w/ a crummy motor

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Doug ( DJ Fire )
Sent: Monday, November 29, 1999 3:59 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - An 84 F-350 w/ a crummy motor


>...strong vibration under deceleration only.

Okay Ken, I have on for you. 86 F-350 6.9L Dually Diesel.
Starting at 45 mph, up to 55 mph, bad vibration under Acceleration.
Also vibrates around 25 - 30 mph, but not as severe. U-Joints look and feel
fine.
And Ideas?

Firefitr cxp.com


I had an old Chevelle that did this, finally had the drive shaft balanced,
that fixed it.

Allen

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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 13:08:04 -0500 (EST)
From: DBblueboy webtv.net (Jerome Kelly)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 460 swap

1987 F150 has a 5.0. Want to swap to a 460. Is it worth doing? Or can it
be done?



http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://community.webtv.net/DBblueboy/DayBreakblueboyblue

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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 13:12:38 EST
From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: AMP GAUGE

MadPoodle aol.com writes:
>At 22:47 28/11/99 -0500, jim wrote:
>If this is true, then I think your truck is wired wrong. The guage is only
>supposed to indicate amps going INTO or OUT OF the battery. It is not
>supposed to show total current being used by all devices.

More draw, more charge. Guage reading correctly!

Scott >>


Ever wonder WHY Detroit blesses us with amp gauges? As witnessed be the
variety of responses to Chris's question: " DOES ANYONE'S AMP GAUGE WORK.
MINE HARDY MOVES WHEN I START THE TRUCK. JUST
ABOUT EVERYONE'S I LOOKED AT DOESN'T WORK EITHER'', most drivers aren't
exactly sure what the amp gauge does or how it's supposed to work! If your
battery is in good condition and charge, your alternator is in good working
order and your starter doesn't have any excessive draw, your amp gauge will
move very little and after a while you are likely to completely ignored it.
On late model Fords with full instrumentation, the dash has a VOLT gauge and
indicator light to warn when the battery is discharging (i.e. inop
alternator). The alternative for those of us who drive the older trucks or
rigs w/o gauges is to install a volt gauge. I did this when I installed the
overhead console in my Bronco and I added a vacuum gauge and tachometer... a
trio of 2inch gauges doesn't take up much room nor did it cost alot....maybe
$60.00?? Then there is no question about how much charge is in the battery
or if the alternator is putting out or not. As far as an amp gauge goes, if
it shows a constant charge, you have a battery problem, excessive demand on
the charging system, bad battery cable, or any of a number of possible
electrical problems. If it show a constant discharge, better start looking
for a safe place to pull off the road....

Alex

or discharge
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 12:29:24 -0600
From: Quicksilver
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AMP GAUGE

Hi, I'm new to this list and also drive an '87 F-150. My Amp guage isn't
working either. I know my alternator is charging because I have driven for
3 - 4 hour trips and it is still running strong. If someone has a fox for
this, please e-mail me direct because I'm in digest/slacker mode.

- - Mark Reimers
'87 F-150 300 I-6 4-speed, two working fuel tanks (As of this last weekend!)
'66 Bronco 170 I-6 3-speed, 3.5" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35" tires,
fiberglass body


>Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 19:20:25 EST
>From: SlamedF150 aol.com
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - AMP GAUGE
>
>DOES ANYONE'S AMP GAUGE WORK. MINE HARDY MOVES WHEN I START THE TRUCK. JUST
>ABOUT EVERYONE'S I LOOKED AT DOESN'T WORK EITHER
>
>CHRIS
>87 F-150
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- - Mark Reimers KB9ODG
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 06:48:09 +1100
From: les williams
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AMP GAUGE

SlamedF150 aol.com wrote:

> DOES ANYONE'S AMP GAUGE WORK. MINE HARDY MOVES WHEN I START THE TRUCK. JUST
> ABOUT EVERYONE'S I LOOKED AT DOESN'T WORK EITHER
>
> CHRIS
> 87 F-150

Yep' - My two OEM ammeters work just as advertised. If you want to come on
down for a look, let me know and I'll bake a cake.

BTW: OK - Ken, I'll bite, Why three?

Regards

Les
Lost in the land of OZ


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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 13:50:17 -0600
From: dale fortenberry jr
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Jump Seats?

Chris, what the heck is a "jump seat"? Do you mean buckets, Captains
Chairs, buckets with a flip up 3rd seat/console, or what? I have heard
of jump seats, but they were referring to the seats in the back on an
extended cab. I have a 92 bench that I would be interested in trading,
depending on what you have. Thanks,

Dale Fortenberry
Smithwick Texas

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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:11:17 -0500
From: Matthew Hayduk
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Headers

At 09:48 PM 11/22/99 -0600, you wrote:
>>Hello,
>>
>>I just had my exhaust manifolds replaced with headers. Although there
>>weren't supposed to be any modifications needed for these headers, it turns
>>out there was. The shop that put them on for me had to heat and bend the
>>y-member until the headers fit properly.
>>
>>The problem is that low end acceleration has gone away, and the throttle has
>>much more resistance than before the headers were installed. At speed, it
>>seems to be coasting along and the engine feels like it is barely working
>>while moving the truck along at 55 mph. That part is great, but what could
>>be the problem with the acceleration? I have a 96' F150 with the 302. Any
>>input is appreciated before I have to take it to the dealership to look at.


long tubes loose low end torque. period. you traded low end for mid/high
power... you need more gear to get the motor to optimum powerband now...


Matthew Hayduk
mhayduk bigfoot.com ICQ: 3680882 pager.mirabilis.com

94 SVT Cobra Coupe White/Black Leather #4270 of 5009 SCOA
8.795 79.071 Mph PERSONAL TOP SPEED: 137 mph
- K&N FIPK
- Mac Long Tubes, Offroad X pipe Flowmaster 2 chamber
- Pro 5.0 Power Tower Shifter
- Autometer Cowl Mounted Fuel Pres Guage
- Motorsport Aluminum Driveshaft
- CEnterforce Dual Friction Clutch
- Compucar Wet Nitrous System -- 90 Shot == NEVER USED
83 Ford Mustang LX 4 cyl car---460 project
83 F150 XLT 300ci I6 A/T 4X2
71 Volkswagen Bug
?? Volkswagen Rail Buggy
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:17:43 -0500
From: slikness mindspring.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 460 swap

> 1987 F150 has a 5.0. Want to swap to a 460. Is it worth doing? Or can itbe done?

I believe the 460 (7.5?) was an option in the mid '80s so the swap should be doable. The 460 is a big block and will require different tranny (or at least bell housing), different engine mounts, and nothing will swap from your 5.0 (like brackets to hold the A/C, altenator, and P.S. pump). You may also want to check the difference in weight and change out your front coil springs. Another area to check is the location of the tailshaft of the new 460 combo. You may need to modify the drive shaft.

Good luck,

Slik



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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:25:49 -0500
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Is it antifreeze ??

> Suggestion:
> Change to the new upgraded "fancy" orange antifreeze. See if the color of
> the mystery substance in the tailpipe changes to orange or stays green.

... or you could put some red food coloring in the mixture to do a
color test as well.



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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:28:41 -0500
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Seat

> Need to know if anyone knows what year Ford started installing Bench
> seats in the extended cab on a truck. I have a '93 F150 SC and I have the
> jump seats, I would like to find out if the bench was an option, if so
where
> I might obtain on and what years might fit it (that would really help a a
> wrecking yard)


I dont know for sure about the "extended cab", but my '76 F250
super cab has a rear bench seat in it (SC = "super cab" ??).



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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:38:52 -0500
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: An 84 F-350 w/ a crummy motor

> Also it has started backfiring recently, if it's cold and i bring it up
> to 2500 or more RPM on the road and then let off the gas It'll
> backfire something awful, so bad it cracked the right side manifold.
> The ignition timing is perfect, and the carb seems OK.
> Also,this thing has a strong vibration at 35-50mph, in both 3rd
> and 4th. One final problem- this stupid thing never will warm up,
> the temp guage has entered the normal zone only once, when I
> was going about 90 in July, it reached the N.

Does it still have good power ? Backfiring often indicates that
excess fuel is getting past the cylinders and into the exhaust pipes.
If your ignition system is dirty, worn, or just plain old, the engine
may be misfiring on one or more cylinders ... which often would
cause both a vibration and backfiring.

Try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, and spark plug wires to see
if that helps. If not, your carburetor is the likely culprit, running
way too rich.



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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:47:46 -0500 (EST)
From: Victor L Moran
Subject: FTE 80-96 - E40D slow to reverse

Theodore,
This might help you, I had a similar problem with my Aero* that I
think has the E40D.
If what you are expiereicne is:
1)you have to wait about 1-2 seconds when you put it in reverse
2)the car gets a small kick (such that if you don't put your foot on the
brakes, it will jump when it finally kicks in)

then it is normal.

I took my van to a very well recommended tranny shop. (2
different shops recommended it and their shop does works on all sorts of
heavy vehicles (so I think they know what they are doing)) The owner,
told me that there is no problem with the Aero* doing that. Ford built it
that way and there is no way to remove it. He also said that doing a
tranny service would not imporove it.

I also took it to a Ford dealer in Buffalo and the salesmen tried
to get me to get a tranny service, but the technician pulled me into a
corner and told me that its normal and a tranny service will not fix it.

Remember, that I'm not positive if I have a E40D, alhought I am
almost positive, someone on the list can surely tell me how to check my
van or will just know.
Victor.

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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:53:33 -0600
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: '84 F-150 Carb problems.

Troy,
I'm glad you got to the root of your problem. But from your last post, have
a question for you and one for the group.

>....The manager mentioned the ignition control module. He asked me
>to take the truck up to the store and they could test it out for me.
>After arriving, I pulled the module off the truck and went inside. The
>module was about completely shot.......

You're saying that AutoZone was able to test the ignition module? Are you
talking the TFI module that bolts to the side of the distributor? On my '90
I think it's called a duraspark 4 system.

For the group, I thought the ignition module pretty much worked or was dead.
Anyone else seen these thing go "lame" and cause some weird running
conditions. I'm still chasing what I think to be an ignition problem and
I'm trying to rationalize my next "shotgun" parts attempt.

Thanks,
David Anderson


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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:05:13 -0700
From: Fred Moreno
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Tach?

Hey Chris,

Well your problem is that funky smelling butane on the truck, take it all
off and all of your life's problems will disappear. Yes sir, that's stuff's
for BBQing not for driving.
Just yoking man, don't throw any punches yet, I bruise easy.

Couple of question regarding your tach (tak?); Is this the factory tak or
an aftermarket one? If its aftermarket how long has it been installed and
did it ever work correctly? I ask because we (Autotronic - MSD) have had to
develop a tach adapter for some very peculiar behavior just as you described
it. But these involved aftermarket and factory tachs with some of our
ignitions and products.
Is your ignition system stock or have you done modifications? Sorry about
all the questions, but inquiring minds want to know.

Another Ford propaner on this list, watch out guys;
we are gaseous,
you will assimilate,
resistance is futile,

Phred, KD5AQB
1995 F-150 4X4, 5.0L, 5-speed, and lots of gas!
La Union, NM/El Paso, TX




Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 18:03:49 -0800
From: Chris McKinnon
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Tach?

Here is this weeks installment in
weird-problems-with-Chris's-truck-to-baffle-
people-on-the-Ford-truck-list.
This weeks problem is my tachometer. The darn thing doesn't work right. It
seems to start at about 3K and go up from there (most days.) Then again,
someday it just staks stuck at 1K and just sits there. Also, sometimes when
it is at idle at a stoplight and I have my turnsignal on the tach bounces by
about 500RPM. Any ideas?
Chris
'84 F150
351W on propane
NP 435
NP 208
281K Km

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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:09:37 -0600
From: Andy Norris
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: '84 F-150 Carb problems.

David,



>I'm trying to rationalize my next "shotgun" parts attempt.
>
>Thanks,
>David Anderson

Something about this just made me laugh out loud. This pretty much
describes how I go about solving problems.

When the 'check engine' light comes on, my first reaction is that I
probably would have noticed if it had fallen out.

Thanks for the laugh!

Andy Norris

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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 14:20:40 PST
From: "Christopher Worley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Jump Seats?

Yes Jump Seats are the side-ways facing seats in the supercab portion of the
truck.

chris


>From: dale fortenberry jr
>Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>To: "80-96-list ford-trucks.com"
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Jump Seats?
>Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 13:50:17 -0600
>
>Chris, what the heck is a "jump seat"? Do you mean buckets, Captains
>Chairs, buckets with a flip up 3rd seat/console, or what? I have heard
>of jump seats, but they were referring to the seats in the back on an
>extended cab. I have a 92 bench that I would be interested in trading,
>depending on what you have. Thanks,
>
>Dale Fortenberry
>Smithwick Texas
>
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______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 14:26:43 PST
From: "Christopher Worley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D slow to reverse

One quick way to tell if it is an E40D is to crawl under and look at the
cross member, E40D is usually stamped into the crossmember pretty close the
the tranny mount bolts. I have a '93 F150 when I pulled my tranny I noticed
it was stamped on the crossmember, hope this helps.

Chris


>From: Victor L Moran
>Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - E40D slow to reverse
>Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:47:46 -0500 (EST)
>
>Theodore,
> This might help you, I had a similar problem with my Aero* that I
>think has the E40D.
> If what you are expiereicne is:
>1)you have to wait about 1-2 seconds when you put it in reverse
>2)the car gets a small kick (such that if you don't put your foot on the
>brakes, it will jump when it finally kicks in)
>
>then it is normal.
>
> I took my van to a very well recommended tranny shop. (2
>different shops recommended it and their shop does works on all sorts of
>heavy vehicles (so I think they know what they are doing)) The owner,
>told me that there is no problem with the Aero* doing that. Ford built it
>that way and there is no way to remove it. He also said that doing a
>tranny service would not imporove it.
>
> I also took it to a Ford dealer in Buffalo and the salesmen tried
>to get me to get a tranny service, but the technician pulled me into a
>corner and told me that its normal and a tranny service will not fix it.
>
> Remember, that I'm not positive if I have a E40D, alhought I am
>almost positive, someone on the list can surely tell me how to check my
>van or will just know.
> Victor.
>
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______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 17:18:04 -0500
From: Rich
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re: Seats

I thought that they had bench seats in from 1990 to current. Also does
anyone know of a good source for seats? I have an xl vinyl bench, and am
looking for a cloth seat, like the xlt has
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:41:58 -0600
From: Andy Norris
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Seats

I've got an '89 F250 SuperCab and the rear seat is a vinyl bench. Wish it
were easy/cheap to find a cloth cover that would fit it. Haven't looked too
awful hard yet, though.

At 05:18 PM 11/29/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I thought that they had bench seats in from 1990 to current. Also does
>anyone know of a good source for seats? I have an xl vinyl bench, and am
>looking for a cloth seat, like the xlt has
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:19:57 -0800
From: Ben Lewis
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D slow to reverse

My 1990 F250 with E4OD is slow to go in reverse after the truck hasn't
been used for a few days. I read somewhere that it is because the tranny
fluid slowly drains out of the convertor and has to fill again before it
will move in reverse. I also read there is a fix where a check valve is
installed to prevent the fluid from draining back. Don't know the details,
but could look it up again. It wasn't a big enough problem to pursue. I
just wait until it's ready to go.

Ben


At 04:47 PM 11/29/99, you wrote:
>Theodore,
> This might help you, I had a similar problem with my Aero* that I
>think has the E40D.
> If what you are expiereicne is:
>1)you have to wait about 1-2 seconds when you put it in reverse
>2)the car gets a small kick (such that if you don't put your foot on the
>brakes, it will jump when it finally kicks in)
>
>then it is normal.
>
> I took my van to a very well recommended tranny shop. (2
>different shops recommended it and their shop does works on all sorts of
>heavy vehicles (so I think they know what they are doing)) The owner,
>told me that there is no problem with the Aero* doing that. Ford built it
>that way and there is no way to remove it. He also said that doing a
>tranny service would not imporove it.
>
> I also took it to a Ford dealer in Buffalo and the salesmen tried
>to get me to get a tranny service, but the technician pulled me into a
>corner and told me that its normal and a tranny service will not fix it.
>
> Remember, that I'm not positive if I have a E40D, alhought I am
>almost positive, someone on the list can surely tell me how to check my
>van or will just know.
> Victor.
>
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:54:36 -0800
From: Rob Bryan
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - E40D slow to reverse

An Aerostar definitely WON'T have an E4OD. if it has an overdrive off button
than it is the electronic version of the A4LD (I forget what that box is
called though). If it has a PRNODD21 shift quadrant than it is a A4LD. E4OD
transmissions were only used on full-size trucks, generally with 5.8L and
larger engines (although some 4.9L and 5.0L trucks had it before the AOD-EW
and 4R70W came out). Compact trucks never recieved this large transmission
(an electronic, 4spd version of the 3-spd C6).

Rob
'90 Bronco
'93 PGT

> From: Victor L Moran
> Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:47:46 -0500 (EST)
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - E40D slow to reverse
>
> Theodore,
> This might help you, I had a similar problem with my Aero* that I
> think has the E40D.
> If what you are expiereicne is:
> 1)you have to wait about 1-2 seconds when you put it in reverse
> 2)the car gets a small kick (such that if you don't put your foot on the
> brakes, it will jump when it finally kicks in)
>
> then it is normal.
>
> I took my van to a very well recommended tranny shop. (2
> different shops recommended it and their shop does works on all sorts of
> heavy vehicles (so I think they know what they are doing)) The owner,
> told me that there is no problem with the Aero* doing that. Ford built it
> that way and there is no way to remove it. He also said that doing a
> tranny service would not imporove it.
>
> I also took it to a Ford dealer in Buffalo and the salesmen tried
> to get me to get a tranny service, but the technician pulled me into a
> corner and told me that its normal and a tranny service will not fix it.
>
> Remember, that I'm not positive if I have a E40D, alhought I am
> almost positive, someone on the list can surely tell me how to check my
> van or will just know.
> Victor.
>
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>

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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:35:48 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - fte 80-96 rear fenders

>The rust you are seeing around the wheelwells is most likely not surface
>rust. When you grind it off chances are there will be small pin holes or
>worse big holes by the time you are thru grinding. My 92 had the same thing.
>I ground it down and used Extend to kill any rust that grinding didnt get. I
>used Glass resin to fill the holes and primed and painted very carefully.
>Within two weeks the paint bubbled and moisture came thru the areas that had
>bubbled. The reason is that there is a panel spot welded underneath the
>fender that is open on both ends. Every time it rains and you drive that
>panel holds water and dirt or whatever aginst the inside of the fender thus
>creating rust from the inside. A body man told me to buy a new box. Yeah
>right! I am still trying to figure what I should do.
>Steve Jones srjones219 aol.com

Does anyone make fiberglass cut-outs for these trucks like they do for
early Broncos?


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:49:06 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - An 84 F-350 w/ a crummy motor

> >...strong vibration under deceleration only.
>
>Okay Ken, I have on for you. 86 F-350 6.9L Dually Diesel.
>Starting at 45 mph, up to 55 mph, bad vibration under Acceleration.
>Also vibrates around 25 - 30 mph, but not as severe. U-Joints look and feel
>fine.
>And Ideas?
>
>Firefitr cxp.com

I'm not familiar with the F-350 driveline, especially diesels. My toys are
all Broncos. If it is 4x4, take out the drive shaft, run it in 4-high, and
make sure you are dealing with the right end. Also, U-joints often go bad
without getting loose. If allowed to run dry, the bearings can actually weld
the cups to the centers. Rare, but it happens. The only way to really check
a joint is take it apart and measure it. Some things I would check if it was
mine:

1) driveline angles.
2) radially misaligned yokes.
3) out-of-round yoke,
4) off-center yoke.
5) driveshaft balance (especially for a place a weight used to be).
6) worn support bearing.
7) mis-aligned support bearing.
8) worn spring bushings.

My dad pulls an 11,500 pound 5th wheel with a dually crewcab C***Y. He
bought it new, and it chattered the whole wanna-be-a-truck under load. After
a zillion trips to the dealer, nothing helped. The center support bearing
bracket was bent down and to the right about 1/4 inch. I removed the drive
shafts and bearing and bent the bracket with a 48 inch pipe wrench and a
bottle jack. Problem solved. Even on a lift with good light the misalignment
was not noticible. My son asked why there was a gap between the bearing
flange and the mount at one spot. The gap may have been 0.015 inch.

Driveline geometry is critical. In a 2 joint shaft, the joints should be
parallel in all 3 axes at all times. In a 3 joint shaft, you enter the realm
of voodoo and witchcraft.

Good luck,
Ken






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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 22:01:14 -0300
From: "RODERICK"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Tach?

Chris:
i see you have a 351 running on propane, i have aquetion for you:I own a
300ci. 6cil. 1994 f 150, as fuel is $4.40 per gal. I have changed it to
propane
does such thing like a special O2 sensor exist for propane running trucks ,
because since mine has been running on propane it has afected my O2 sensor
and the check engine light has been going on,Is there any thing else i shoul
change on the truck to get a better performance on my truck

thanks
Roderick
94 flare side


- ----- Original Message -----
From: Chris McKinnon
To:
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 1999 11:03 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Tach?


> Here is this weeks installment in
wierd-problems-with-Chris's-truck-to-baffle-
> people-on-the-Ford-truck-list.
> This weeks problem is my tachometer. The darn thing doesn't work right. It
> seems to start at about 3K and go up from there (most days.) Then again,
> somedays it just staks stuck at 1K and just sits there. Also, sometimes
when
> it is at idle at a stoplight and I have my turnsignal on the tach bounces
by
> about 500RPM. Any ideas?
> Chris
> '84 F150
> 351W on propane
> NP 435
> NP 208
> 281K Km
>
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 17:36:40 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 460 swap

>1987 F150 has a 5.0. Want to swap to a 460. Is it worth doing? Or can it
>be done?
>
>
>
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://community.webtv.net/DBblueboy/DayBreakblueboyblue

Someone else asked about tweaking a 460 in another post, so I'll relate my
experience with that, also.

Anything is possible, if you have the money. I have a 460, C6, and 203
(full-time case) in an 83 Bronco. I don't remember what mounts I used, but
everything to set the driveline in except the exhaust came from a junkyard
and bolted right up, once some holes were drilled. I had driveshafts custom
made, but I'm not sure if that was for length reasons, U'joint reasons, or
both, because 1-ton axles went in at the same time.

Oh, this engine is de-smogged, Edelbrock Performer cam, kit, intake,
Pro-jection, Accel Blueprint ignition, complete. The rest of the engine is
just clearanced and balanced except the ports are polished and matched (not
ported) and 3-angle valve seats with 429 SCJ valves. Ford actually produced
the small port-big valve heads on a 429 Police Interceptor motor. IMHO, they
are the best all around 429-460 street heads going short of a pro-street
motor. Pull like stockers down low and 30-40 extra ponies wound up.

This engine has a lot better throttle response than the 490 (welded and
offset ground crank) in my Mustang, which IS a pro-street motor with
TwistedWedge heads, intake, and cam. The TwistedWedge motor is pushing the
limits for a street car, and would be absolutely useless in everyday driving
in a truck, You could forget any offroading short of desert racing. It would
be underpowered for a sanddragger or puller.

Both vehicles have been dynoed, to check the speedos, so I have no power
curve figures. The dyno guy mentioned that the Performer is putting about
1/2 the horsepower on the ground of the TwistedWedge motor. Keep in mind the
ancillary and powertrain losses on the Bronco are double that on the Mustang
(Richmond Gear 4+1). The TwistedWedge motor makes 601 net brake horsepower
at the flywheel (water pump, alt hooked up, no ps pump) at 6100 rpm, and 640
lbsft of torque 3400, without the NOX.

I feel the 460 Performer motor is a much better truck engine than the
TwistedWedge, unless you are running a Pro-Street truck and are willing to
invest in goodies like 9 inch converters, 4-links, tubs, and Sportsmans. 900
horsepower (with NOX) is a lot of fun, but it requires too much maintenance
and too much driving in the real world.

Ken



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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 20:35:37 -0500
From: "Troy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: '84 F-150 Carb problems.

On 29 Nov 99, at 15:53, David Anderson (EUS) wrote:

>Troy,
>I'm glad you got to the root of your problem. But from your last post, have
>a question for you and one for the group.
>
>>....The manager mentioned the ignition control module. He asked me
>>to take the truck up to the store and they could test it out for me.
>>After arriving, I pulled the module off the truck and went inside. The
>>module was about completely shot.......
>
>You're saying that AutoZone was able to test the ignition module? Are you
>talking the TFI module that bolts to the side of the distributor? On my '90
>I think it's called a duraspark 4 system.

This one they were able to test. I was told they come in two
different 'styles' or installations. There are some that sit on the
side of the distributor, and there are some that are shaped as a
box that sit over the wheel well on the driver's side of the vehicle.
Mine was this box style, and yes, they were able to test it.

>For the group, I thought the ignition module pretty much worked or was dead.
>Anyone else seen these thing go "lame" and cause some weird running
>conditions. I'm still chasing what I think to be an ignition problem and
>I'm trying to rationalize my next "shotgun" parts attempt.

Apparently that was not the case. There were different functions
that it had to go through during it's firing process, etc. When the
module was run for any length of time, it was getting too hot and it
would stop functioning properly. The only thing that did work on
the box was the ignition circuit. Apparently it also controls the
firing, etc. I was wondering what else the box controls, if anything.


You might be a redneck if... The man from the power company
threatens to cut off your service, and you threaten to cut off
something of his in return. - Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 18:15:47 -0800
From: "S.Harkema"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 460 build up

>On this engine I plan to get sealed rings, 3 angle valve job, port and
>polish the heads, Balance and (possibly) blueprint.RV cam

I have a 84 with a stock 460.My dad has a 84 that we pulled the diesil
out of and put a 460 in.We rebuilt his with .030 over 9.5:1
pistons,melling RV cam,3 angle valve job and had it balanced.It will
leave my 84 in the dust and pulls his travel trailer with ease.He did
not want it loud so he left the stock diesil exhaust on it.I think with
duals and maybe headers it would run even better.

>Other possibility's are
>bumping up the compression with domed pistons(how much is reasonable)

I would stay in the 9:5 range.I have a 10.5:1 428 in my 76 and while
towing my travel trailer it will ping when climbing hills. I have to run
premium which gets a little expensive at 5-7 MPG while towing.
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 20:38:49 -0600 (CST)
From: DTrowbridge webtv.net (David Trowbridge)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96 new here

hey everyone. i just bought an 85 f-150 so i decided it would be a good
idea to join the list. it currently has a rebuilt 4.9L inline 6 and 3
speed auto tranny. it seems to be pretty heavy duty having a 6 quart
oil pan and a 9" rear end. can anyone confirm if it is in fact a heavy
duty truck, or is this just the way ford builds them? also does anone
have any specs on this truck? i.e. max tow weight, max tongue weight, hp
and torque ratings.
thanx,
David

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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:25:38 PST
From: "Christopher Worley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96 new here

My '93 F150 that has a six quart oil capacity as well, the Haynes Manual
lists the oil capacity at 6qts. (5 in pan 1 in the filter) so I am thinking
that this could be standard. Someone jump in if I am wrong.

Chris
93 F-150 SC 351
Waxahachie, TX


>From: DTrowbridge webtv.net (David Trowbridge)
>Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96 new here
>Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 20:38:49 -0600 (CST)
>
>hey everyone. i just bought an 85 f-150 so i decided it would be a good
>idea to join the list. it currently has a rebuilt 4.9L inline 6 and 3
>speed auto tranny. it seems to be pretty heavy duty having a 6 quart
>oil pan and a 9" rear end. can anyone confirm if it is in fact a heavy
>duty truck, or is this just the way ford builds them? also does anone
>have any specs on this truck? i.e. max tow weight, max tongue weight, hp
>and torque ratings.
>thanx,
>David
>
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:36:20 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AMP GAUGE

>
>BTW: OK - Ken, I'll bite, Why three?
>
>Regards
>
>Les
>Lost in the land of OZ
>

Why 3? 3 Broncos, of course.

83 Bronco #1 302 Performer, Mustang GT shorties, SROD, hydraulic clutch
linkage (to clear the headers), 3.55, 31/10.50R15 Also P295/50R15 for towing

83 Bronco #2 460 Performer, Pro-jection, C6, 203, 4.88 Dana 60/70, 9 inch
lift, 44/18.5-16.5

83 Bronco #3 302 Performer, C4, 2wd, 3.55, 275/50R17 (I think) (My son's
truck--lowered so his sweety can get in like a lady after she was crippled
by a drunk driver)

The rest of my corral:

81 F150, 300, C4, wrecked

86 Mustang LX hatchback, 460 TwistedWedge, Richmond Gear 4+1, 3.55 9 inch,
P245/50R16 frt, P305/45R16 rear, GT suspension, SIS brakes, Konis,
polyurethane bushings

86 Mustang LX convertible, 302 Performer, C4, 3.08, P245/50R16, daughter's
daily driver.

93 Mustang LX convertible, 2.3 FI (turbo longblock) Paxton supercharger,
autoOD (why it is still alive is a mystery to me), don't know which, 4.10
8.8, lowered 2 front, 1 rear, GT brakes, McCloed sway bars, polyurethane
bushings, high-effort steering box, Konis, subframe connectors and tower
braces, 8 point cage, 225/50R16. (This 4-banger eats GTs, Camaros, Vettes
and Porsches in the autocrosses--absolutely the most fun car in the world on
a tight, twisty paved road, 28 MPG highway, 123 mph with the top down.)

70 Cougar Eliminator XR-7 convertible, SCJ 428, 4 spd, 3.90 Drag Pack

Prisoners of war:

69 Camaro Z-28 hardtop, Series 4 (factory Trans Am series intended car),
factory blueprinted 302, M-22, 3.70 12 bolt, factory crossram with AFBs,
headers and dumps, and safety tubes installed, carpeting, heater, back seat
deleted. P235-60R15 Never raced side-by-side. This is the only Chevy worth
owning, because it has a 302. I've run this car in autocross for years.
Never lost in factory stock class, many overall wins in modified street with
only wheel/tire change. Eats late model Cobras (even SVO-351s) alive.
Consistently beaten only by a certain 93 Mustang.

69 Corvette ZL1 hardtop, 427 aluminum engine, side collector headers, M-22,
3.23, L-88 roadracing package. Delete heater, carpet. P275-50R15 Another
factory race-intended car. Too much tire smoke for autocross, though that's
what I bought it for. Big enough tires to stick would have required cutting
the fenders. No way. I've run this monster At Road Atlanta, Daytona Road
Course, and Sebring at oldtimers events. This thing will cruise all day at
155. A crowd favorite, but really an overrated piece of crap.

73 Trans Am, 455 SD, M-21, 3.70 12-bolt (broke the stock 10 bolt)

86 S10, SB, 455 Olds W-30, Offenhouser intake w/ 2 AFB, TH 4.75, 3.23 in the
bed. P235R60R15 front, P295/50R15 rear. This is my daughter's toy. She
bought it (blown tranny, no engine), and a crashed 70 Toronado for $200. She
had less than $1000 in it, and was driving to school, with the stock engine.
W-30 parts salvaged from a wrecked Cutlass in a friend's yard, free. Rebuild
driveline, suspension, brakes, wheels, tires, paint, interior (all by the
munchkin, except the welding) another $2000. Nor bad, for a girl. Anything
with a pair of 4 barrels and marine headers and mufflers sticking out of the
bed cover is cool in my book.

Ancient history:

1969 Honda CB 750 Four. Showroom condition. 1342 miles.

1974 Honda XL-125, Yoshimura magnesium jug and head, 6 speed, Powerol
stroker, Bassani TDSQ, Keihin diaghram from CB 450. Redline flat track
frame, with lights. This bike held the World Speed record for 125 CC open
for 2 years, 138 mph, ridden by a 12 year old girl. Now is a 160 CC with
stroker crank-.060 factory piston, and a sweet ride for a quick trip to
school--on the back wheel.

1974 Honda CB 750 K4, Yoshimura head, RC stroker, Rickman roadrace chassis.
This bike and I parted company at Daytona at 160 mph when the front tire
blew. Damage to bike: front fender gone, scuffed hand grip and paint when it
rolled to almost a stop and fell over. Damage to me: 2nd degree burns on
hands, chest, and thighs from the friction of leather and pavement, broken
jaw. Still ridden occasionally to teach the CB600Rs a thing or 2. Got a
problem with the 900s, though.

1974 Honda CB 750 K4, Windjammer fairing and bags, solo seat, rack and back
rest. MP3 player/tuner with 192 megs, cell phone and chatterbox interfaced,
this is my daily rider, 197000 miles, never had the head off, never been
dropped.

1975 Honda CB 500 T, soft tail chopper engineering exercise, long before
Milwalkie thought of a soft tail. 10 over springer. So wierd even the old
Harley riders grin, they don't know what the heck it is, but it looks and
sounds good. Still ridden on charity rides and poker runs. These torsion bar
heads turn 12,000 rpm, with the right cams, and leave all but the most
modified Harleys in the dust. Of course, at 12K it sounds Japanese, and the
old Harley guys don't like it as much anymore.

99 MTD 20 inch pushmower, 3.75 Briggs, adjustable wheels.

1951 insurance lady who understands, bless her. She gives me stated value
coverage at a great price. No claims in 30 years, knock on wood.

Ken

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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:52:55 PST
From: "Christopher Worley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AMP GAUGE

Ken,
Convert the S-10 into a lawn mower (I wouldn't admit to owning it)
lol

Chris


>From: "ken haley"
>Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - AMP GAUGE
>Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:36:20 PST
>
>>
>>BTW: OK - Ken, I'll bite, Why three?
>>
>>Regards
>>
>>Les
>>Lost in the land of OZ
>>
>
>Why 3? 3 Broncos, of course.
>
>83 Bronco #1 302 Performer, Mustang GT shorties, SROD, hydraulic clutch
>linkage (to clear the headers), 3.55, 31/10.50R15 Also P295/50R15 for
>towing
>
>83 Bronco #2 460 Performer, Pro-jection, C6, 203, 4.88 Dana 60/70, 9 inch
>lift, 44/18.5-16.5
>
>83 Bronco #3 302 Performer, C4, 2wd, 3.55, 275/50R17 (I think) (My son's
>truck--lowered so his sweety can get in like a lady after she was crippled
>by a drunk driver)
>
>The rest of my corral:
>
>81 F150, 300, C4, wrecked
>
>86 Mustang LX hatchback, 460 TwistedWedge, Richmond Gear 4+1, 3.55 9 inch,
>P245/50R16 frt, P305/45R16 rear, GT suspension, SIS brakes, Konis,
>polyurethane bushings
>
>86 Mustang LX convertible, 302 Performer, C4, 3.08, P245/50R16, daughter's
>daily driver.
>
>93 Mustang LX convertible, 2.3 FI (turbo longblock) Paxton supercharger,
>autoOD (why it is still alive is a mystery to me), don't know which, 4.10
>8.8, lowered 2 front, 1 rear, GT brakes, McCloed sway bars, polyurethane
>bushings, high-effort steering box, Konis, subframe connectors and tower
>braces, 8 point cage, 225/50R16. (This 4-banger eats GTs, Camaros, Vettes
>and Porsches in the autocrosses--absolutely the most fun car in the world
>on
>a tight, twisty paved road, 28 MPG highway, 123 mph with the top down.)
>
>70 Cougar Eliminator XR-7 convertible, SCJ 428, 4 spd, 3.90 Drag Pack
>
>Prisoners of war:
>
>69 Camaro Z-28 hardtop, Series 4 (factory Trans Am series intended car),
>factory blueprinted 302, M-22, 3.70 12 bolt, factory crossram with AFBs,
>headers and dumps, and safety tubes installed, carpeting, heater, back seat
>deleted. P235-60R15 Never raced side-by-side. This is the only Chevy worth
>owning, because it has a 302. I've run this car in autocross for years.
>Never lost in factory stock class, many overall wins in modified street
>with
>only wheel/tire change. Eats late model Cobras (even SVO-351s) alive.
>Consistently beaten only by a certain 93 Mustang.
>
>69 Corvette ZL1 hardtop, 427 aluminum engine, side collector headers, M-22,
>3.23, L-88 roadracing package. Delete heater, carpet. P275-50R15 Another
>factory race-intended car. Too much tire smoke for autocross, though that's
>what I bought it for. Big enough tires to stick would have required cutting
>the fenders. No way. I've run this monster At Road Atlanta, Daytona Road
>Course, and Sebring at oldtimers events. This thing will cruise all day at
>155. A crowd favorite, but really an overrated piece of crap.
>
>73 Trans Am, 455 SD, M-21, 3.70 12-bolt (broke the stock 10 bolt)
>
>86 S10, SB, 455 Olds W-30, Offenhouser intake w/ 2 AFB, TH 4.75, 3.23 in
>the
>bed. P235R60R15 front, P295/50R15 rear. This is my daughter's toy. She
>bought it (blown tranny, no engine), and a crashed 70 Toronado for $200.
>She
>had less than $1000 in it, and was driving to school, with the stock
>engine.
>W-30 parts salvaged from a wrecked Cutlass in a friend's yard, free.
>Rebuild
>driveline, suspension, brakes, wheels, tires, paint, interior (all by the
>munchkin, except the welding) another $2000. Nor bad, for a girl. Anything
>with a pair of 4 barrels and marine headers and mufflers sticking out of
>the
>bed cover is cool in my book.
>
>Ancient history:
>
>1969 Honda CB 750 Four. Showroom condition. 1342 miles.
>
>1974 Honda XL-125, Yoshimura magnesium jug and head, 6 speed, Powerol
>stroker, Bassani TDSQ, Keihin diaghram from CB 450. Redline flat track
>frame, with lights. This bike held the World Speed record for 125 CC open
>for 2 years, 138 mph, ridden by a 12 year old girl. Now is a 160 CC with
>stroker crank-.060 factory piston, and a sweet ride for a quick trip to
>school--on the back wheel.
>
>1974 Honda CB 750 K4, Yoshimura head, RC stroker, Rickman roadrace chassis.
>This bike and I parted company at Daytona at 160 mph when the front tire
>blew. Damage to bike: front fender gone, scuffed hand grip and paint when
>it
>rolled to almost a stop and fell over. Damage to me: 2nd degree burns on
>hands, chest, and thighs from the friction of leather and pavement, broken
>jaw. Still ridden occasionally to teach the CB600Rs a thing or 2. Got a
>problem with the 900s, though.
>
>1974 Honda CB 750 K4, Windjammer fairing and bags, solo seat, rack and back
>rest. MP3 player/tuner with 192 megs, cell phone and chatterbox interfaced,
>this is my daily rider, 197000 miles, never had the head off, never been
>dropped.
>
>1975 Honda CB 500 T, soft tail chopper engineering exercise, long before
>Milwalkie thought of a soft tail. 10 over springer. So wierd even the old
>Harley riders grin, they don't know what the heck it is, but it looks and
>sounds good. Still ridden on charity rides and poker runs. These torsion
>bar
>heads turn 12,000 rpm, with the right cams, and leave all but the most
>modified Harleys in the dust. Of course, at 12K it sounds Japanese, and the
>old Harley guys don't like it as much anymore.
>
>99 MTD 20 inch pushmower, 3.75 Briggs, adjustable wheels.
>
>1951 insurance lady who understands, bless her. She gives me stated value
>coverage at a great price. No claims in 30 years, knock on wood.
>
>Ken
>
>______________________________________________________
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:59:21 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Headers

>
>long tubes loose low end torque. period. you traded low end for mid/high
>power... you need more gear to get the motor to optimum powerband now...
>
>
>Matthew Hayduk
>mhayduk bigfoot.com

If long tubes loose low end, period, why do AA/FDs have short tubes?

Short and fat = go fast

Long and skinny = grunt

Go look at a Hooker catalog. For the same application, Comps (street) have
longer and smaller diameter primaries than Super Comps (race).

It has to do with the velocity of the exaust pulses and sound reversion. Go
figure that out. Then we can talk about megaphones and reverse cone
megaphones intelligently.

Do not generalize your Mustang shorties to a good set of long tubes.
Shorties are compact. Better than iron in the same space. Try to find equal
length primaries in shorties. Near impossible, but there are a few. Equal
length primaries are an advantage easily designed into long tubes. The best
header designs are not only equal length, but equal volume, too. Sequential
placement around the collector junction also aids extraction.

Ever hear of Tri-Ys or underpan primaries? Those are a couple more
engineering concepts that made it to production that fly in the face of your
"period."

Simply put, shorties are too short to compete with longies, but they beat
the tar out of iron.

There is too much evidence in the literature and under the hoods to argue
this point any longer.

I do agree about the need for gear, though. Most every 1/2 ton needs more
gear. Back in the 60s, every truck had 3.70s or 4.10s, and no overdrives.
And we thought L78-15 Xtra Tracs were the HUGE.

Ken


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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 20:03:22 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 460 swap

> > 1987 F150 has a 5.0. Want to swap to a 460. Is it worth doing? Or can
>itbe done?
>
>I believe the 460 (7.5?) was an option in the mid '80s so the swap should
>be doable. The 460 is a big block and will require different tranny (or at
>least bell housing), different engine mounts, and nothing will swap from
>your 5.0 (like brackets to hold the A/C, altenator, and P.S. pump). You
>may also want to check the difference in weight and change out your front
>coil springs. Another area to check is the location of the tailshaft of
>the new 460 combo. You may need to modify the drive shaft.
>
>Good luck,
>
>Slik

Good advice, Slick. One other idea--buy a complete wreck to get your core
engine and tranny, and mounts, and all the bolts, and brackets, and wiring,
and cables, and radiator, and hoses, and....

Ken

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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 21:29:59 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: AMP GAUGE

"It is impossible to defeat an ignorant man in argument." -William G. McAdoo

"There are only two truly infinite things, the universe and stupidity. And I
am unsure about the universe." -Albert Einstein

"Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level then beat you
with experience." -unknown

"Don't argue with a fool. The spectators can't tell the difference." -
Charles j. Nalin

At 08:08 29/11/99 EST, you wrote:
>
>>
>>At 22:47 28/11/99 -0500, jim wrote:
>>
>>If this is true, then I think your truck is wired wrong. The guage is only
>>supposed to indicate amps going INTO or OUT OF the battery. It is not
>>supposed to show total current being used by all devices.
>
> More draw, more charge. Guage reading correctly!
>
>Scott
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 21:32:07 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - An 84 F-350 w/ a crummy motor

At 08:27 29/11/99 -0600, you wrote:
>
>>...strong vibration under deceleration only.
>
>Okay Ken, I have on for you. 86 F-350 6.9L Dually Diesel.
>Starting at 45 mph, up to 55 mph, bad vibration under Acceleration.
>Also vibrates around 25 - 30 mph, but not as severe. U-Joints look and feel
>fine.
>And Ideas?
>
>Firefitr cxp.com
>
>
>I had an old Chevelle that did this, finally had the drive shaft balanced,
>that fixed it.
>
>Allen

Good suggestion, Allen. I would suggest you check to see if drive shaft is
in phase. Someone before you might have taken it apart and not been careful
about how it was put back together. A simple check is to rotate it 180
degrees and see if the vibration gets better or worse.





Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 23:29:47 EST
From: MykeSS aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - What should I look for?

Hi folks:

I'm new to the list, but glad I found you. I'm in the market for a pick up
truck that I can use to haul mulch, dirt, gravel, and other various and
sundry stuff you wouldn't put in a car. I'd like to spend no more than $2500
at the very, very most. What years and models should I look for and with
what engines and transmission? Thanx in advance.

Mike Schell-Smith
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 23:38:07 -0500
From: "Mark Salvetti"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Intake Reseal - Done!

Well, I resealed the intake on my 1986 5.0L this past weekend, and it went
pretty well. I had been worried about getting the nut off the EGR valve,
but that turned out to be easy. That Kroil (http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.kanolabs.com/) has....


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