From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #335
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80-96-list-digest Sunday, November 28 1999 Volume 03 : Number 335



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: Interval Wiper Switch and Radio Removal
FTE 80-96 - Wiper Knob
FTE 80-96 - Water Pump
FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger tires
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger tires
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger tires
FTE 80-96 - Dually conversions
FTE 80-96 - Leaking head gasket?
FTE 80-96 - Interval wiper switch
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Interval Wiper Switch and Radio Removal

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Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 12:24:25 -0300
From: "RODERICK"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: Interval Wiper Switch and Radio Removal

On the end of the switch, you will find a little plastic stopper that you
can pull out with your fingers, inside you ll find a screw, see if getting
it out lets you pull it a part
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Webdoc
To:
Sent: Saturday, November 27, 1999 3:35 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: Interval Wiper Switch and Radio Removal


> John, thanks for the tip. Used a 1/8 in. dia piece of brass brazing rod
to
> fab the tool, it worked great.
> Come on guys, someone out there has taken that wiper switch apart. Let us
> in on your secret!
>
>
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Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 08:21:06 -0800
From: "S.Harkema"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Wiper Knob

>Come on guys, someone out there has taken that wiper switch apart. Let >us in on your secret!

Missed the first part of this,so I assume you want to remove knob
from switch.On my 84 and 76 trucks I do it as follows,
Locate the notch cut in the back of the knob.Fab a "J" shaped tool out
of heavy wire.The old stanby bailling wire is not quite heavy enough.
Insert the short end of the J tool in the notch and you will feel a
spring steel keeper.Pull the keeper towards you while pulling on the
knob and it should come off.To install the knob just push it on .
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Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 08:51:46 PST
From: 2insane excite.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Water Pump

Thanks to all of your suggestions and help. The new pump,thermostat,coolant
is in now. Took about 8 hours over 3 days working at my own pace. Didn't
have any trouble doing it. Took lots of things off my truck that haven't
been off by me though. Nice learning experience. But. . ..
When it was leaking before i mixed up some antifreeze and since i didn't
have a funnel handy i decided to just pour into the recovery tank (i could
pour it in there easier and with less spilling i thought than thru the
radiator cap) thinking that it gets siphoned or whatever back into the
cooling system. Well, i poured it pretty much full and it didn't go down
since. My new thermostat opens up a'lot later too. before i never got gauge
to the n in normal. now the thermostat doesn't open till about the m and
then stays in the n to o range. i couldn't tell what the old thermo was but
the new one had c 195 on it so i'm figurin a 195 degree thermo. still runs
the same so i'm thinking nothing wrong there. Other than that, everything
worked fine. thanks for the help.
DK




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Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 13:46:34 -0500
From: Rich
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger tires

I just changed from 235's to 31" tires. When I am moving at
55mph, my speedo says 50. What do I change the speed constant to? I am
really confused about this but I know it is easier to do.
Rich
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Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 14:14:52 EST
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger tires

In a message dated 11/27/1999 1:56:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rdtect snet.net writes:


55mph, my speedo says 50. What do I change the speed constant to? I am
really confused about this but I know it is easier to do.
Rich >>

You need to recalibrate your speedo using this process:
80-96 - Speedometer Calibration
Start with 20186, divide by actual tire size in inches. Divide again by 66.66
Example: 20186/34.5=585.1/66.66=8.78
Thus for 34.5 inch tires, the calibration is 878
To set the calibration, ground the single wire connector under the glove
box, hold in reset button on trip meter and turn ignition to ON. From here
use Select to get proper calibration and press reset to store
This can ONLY be done 6 times before you have to replace the module.
Keep in mind that you must use actual tire size, not printed size.

Joe
Lost in jersey
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Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 11:40:39 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger tires

>I just changed from 235's to 31" tires. When I am moving at
>55mph, my speedo says 50. What do I change the speed constant to? I am
>really confused about this but I know it is easier to do.
>Rich
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

Lucky you--a 10% correction factor. The math is easy: indicated speed + 10%
= true speed. Indicated speed x 1.1 = true speed. Read the speedo, move the
decimal one place to the left, and add that to the indicated speed. Lots of
algorithms will work. Pick one that is easy for you.

Best thing to do is to change the drive gear for the speedo, though. Some
savvy counterpersons can set you up with an inexpensive adapter, too.
Unhook, the speedo cable (or sender) from the trans or case, bolt in the
adapter, hook up the cable. Cost about $16US, but others have posted that
new drive gears for the tranny or case are cheaper and just as easy to
install. A little help, guys?

Ken

This chart assumes a correction factor of 10%, as per your quoted figures.

Indicated True
10 11
15 16.5
20 22
25 27.5
30 33
35 38.5
40 44
45 49.5
50 55 (given)
55 60.5
60 66
65 71.5
70 77
75 82.5

______________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 11:51:03 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dually conversions

There has been a post or two about converting a singles to duallies. I ran
across a dually Bronco today, and was referred by the owner to the following
URL: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.arrowcraft.com

Arrowcraft has dually conversions, wheels, adapters, and fenders. They even
have adapters for the front so that only one spare need be carried. They
also have 15 inch diameter kits for the 5 lug half-tons. A lowered F-150
dually with ground effects kit would be outragous. A SWB standard cab 8x8
would be awesome.

Hope these folks can help.

Ken

______________________________________________________
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Date: 27 Nov 1999 12:54:50 -0800
From: "David W"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Leaking head gasket?

I have a 90 F250 w/460...and its cooling system is fine. But recently, my
daily driver (86 Chrysler LeBaron GTS Turbo) blew its head gasket. Huge
cloud of steam burst forth from the exhaust for a short time when it
happened. Then the symptems were:

* Rough idle
* bad gas milage
* poor acceleration

but the givaway symptoms were:

* Bubbles in radiator fluid...if you removed the cap (when cold!) and
started the engine
* Loss of coolant from recovery system

I did not want to replace the head gasket if I could help it...this little
GTS is a nice car, fun to drive...but also has 139,5xx miles in a 4 banger
turbo. It might not be worth the expense of a head gasket...because then I
would probably do a valve job....and hell, might as well do the rings and
main bearings too...by then, how much is this car worth??? So I thought I
would try some of that radiator / block sealer stuff. Not Aluma-seal thats
been around since the model T. No, there are many brands out there and I
tried them all. Including the stuff that has you drain the fluid when you
are done and allow the repair to harden for 3-12 hours. Each time, I would
flush the coolant and add sealer according to the directions. Most made no
difference. Some worked for a little while. I tried at least 5 or 6 of the
major brands.

Then I tried that 99 cent container of Aluma-Seal. Holy smokes, the leak
stopped in MINUTES and has held for 750 miles. I cannot believe it! (note,
not a sales pitch, I have no interest in them at all.)
I dont know if the repair will last forever, but I know this stuff is still
circulating in my coolant...if the repair "fails" I am pretty sure it will
re-seal...but so far its been running perfect. A head gasket leak is a
hard thing to fix on a turbocharged engine...if it works in my little 4
banger TurboBeater, it should work in a truck.

Just a thought. Better life through chemistry! Good luck.

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Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 17:21:12 -0600
From: "Webdoc"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Interval wiper switch

For those of you wondering how to disassemble the interval switch located on
the turn signal, I got off my a** today and checked it out. First take a
very thin bladed knife and pop the end cap off. It looks like a single
piece unit, but it's not. Next, slowly undo the screw you'll find
underneath. Again, SLOWLY, pull off the switch (it's under spring pressure,
and so are the detent stops... they are small and easy to lose). Get some
q-tips and solvent and clean out all the old contact grease (mine was
filthy!). After the solvent dries, relube and reassemble. It works like
new.

Doc
Email webdoc arkansas.net
"Never knock on Death's door... ring the bell and run. He HATES that!"


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Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 23:11:32 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Interval Wiper Switch and Radio Removal

In a message dated 11/27/99 1:38:44 AM Eastern Standard Time,
webdoc arkansas.net writes:


in on your secret! >>
OK,OK, you forced it outta me. To remove the cover on the wiper switch, look
on the backside of the housing. Close to the top of the wiper switch, you
should see a little slot. Insert a small screwdriver in there and pry gently
toward the column. This should pop the top off of the housing. Inside you
will need to be VERY careful of the contacts. But you should be able to use
an electrical contact cleaner sprayed on a Qtip or on a toothpick. Carefully
wipe all the old grease(or as much as you can) off of the brass. Then apply a
coat of the same kind of grease they give you for ignition components. A
small amount in between the contacts will do. Then, if done correctly, the
intermittent wipers should function properly. Of course the standard
disclaimers apply. =)....


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