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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #333
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80-96-list-digest Friday, November 26 1999 Volume 03 : Number 333



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunking Noise
Re: FTE 80-96 - Questions for the great & powerful Smeck
Re: FTE 80-96 - Questions for the great & powerful Smeck
FTE 80-96 - U JOINTS
Re: FTE 80-96 - '84 F-150 Carb problems.
Re: FTE 80-96 - interval wiper switch
FTE 80-96 - Re: Interval Wiper Switch and Radio Removal
FTE 80-96 - Re: HeadGasket/Antifreeze
Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunking Noise
Re: FTE 80-96 - U JOINTS
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Carburetor Jetting
Re: FTE 80-96 - Questions for the great & powerful Smeck
Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunking Noise
FTE 80-96 - Glow Plug Question

=======================================================================

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Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 06:25:10 -0500
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunking Noise

Ken,

Well said.

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA

- -----Original Message-----
From: ken haley
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 3:15 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunking Noise


>>mpmccarthy worldnet.att.net writes:
>>
>>guy
>> who did the brake job (me) left out one of the little tension springs
for
>> the caliper. Putting in the tension spring solved the problem......
>>Because
>>it pushes downward on the caliper it can make it more difficult to get the
>>retaining pin back in and it is tempting to leave it out.. >>
>> Your little story sure raised the hair on my spine!! I recently
>>uncovered
>>a do-it-yourselfers mistake on a brake job as being the cause of a fatal
>>accident. (currently charges are pending, poor fellow) Every piece of
the
>>braking system is important! When in doubt, take it to a
professional......
>>we all share the same streets.
>>Alex
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>>
>
>
>The problem with many "professionals", is they aren't. In an era of
>increasing complexities in engineering, the professionals can't even keep
>up. Shelves of repair manuals fill an entire 12X14 foot room at my local
>fix-it emporium. The owner is a bud, so he lets me access the library and
>borrow special tools. :-) He complains he cannot find qualified mechanics,
>and he has to really watch over the work of those he does find with
>credentials. Those tech-school diplomas are often less meaningful than the
>glass that covers them. Then, one must consider the mental state of the
>person doing the job. Is he hung over? Is he preoccuppied with how to pay
>the orthodontist?
>
>Where people get into trouble with DIY is tearing into something without an
>adequate knowledge of what they are doing. Most people over-estimate their
>own abilities in whatever it is the are doing. People get in a hurry and
try
>to not spend an extra penny.
>
>The main steps in successful DIY are:
>
>1) Know what you are doing. Do not trust everything others tell you,
consult
>published manuals, preferably more than one when preparing for a new task.
>This includes safe work practices, too. Concrete blocks and stacks of 2X4s
>do not jackstands make.
>
>2) Have the "right" tools for the job. Homemade tools are often better than
>purchased tools, and cheaper, but make sure the homemade tools really can
do
>the job.
>
>3) Keep things organized. Never trust yourself to remember which bolt goes
>where. This can be as simple as putting the lug nuts in the hubcap while
>changing a tire. This can be as complex as labeling both ends of every
>connection, bagging related hardware, making drawings, taking Polaroids,
>stopping between each step to make a written record of what you've done,
>etc.
>
>4) Take your time--many jobs are botched because of a rush to get done.
>Parts are overlooked and left out. I've seen brke drums left off after
brake
>jobs, and throwout bearings left out. Check, double check, and triple check
>every step.
>
>5) Follow the procedures listed in the book. The books are not always
right,
>but odds are the writers know more than you.
>
>Hope these ideas help. Taking the effort and time to do it right the first
>time is a lot easier and cheaper than doing it over.
>
>Ken
>
>______________________________________________________
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>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 04:19:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Jim Kudulis
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Questions for the great & powerful Smeck

You can try www.ownerconnection.com. They will answer questions about your
truck.
Jim

On Wed, 24 Nov 1999 21:31:58 -0500, S Spaulding wrote:

> Ted,
>
> I'll be rude and jump in, since the 1991 service manual is right here...
>
> 1FT = Ford Motor Company USA, Truck (complete vehicle)
> H = Hydraulic brakes, 8501-9000 lbs.
> X26 = F-Series, F-250, 4x4, Pickup - super cab or crew cab
> G = 7.5L 460 CI V-8 Gas
> 6 = Check Digit
> M = 1991
> K = Kansas City: Claycomo, Missouri
> The rest is the production sequence number.
>
> X268 = 8800 lb. GVWR, 155" wheelbase
>
> F = Cloth captain's chair
> B = Trim color - crystal blue
> M = Styleside Pickup - Crew Cab
>
> E = Automatic - E4OD
>
> C9 = ? C9 is not listed. 39 is a 6250# 3.55:1; B9 is a 5300# 3.55:1.
> Ford loves to change things in the middle of the year, so maybe C9 would
> be listed in a 1992 book.
>
> 1 = Red Orange if it is solid; Light Regatta Blue/ Bright Regatta Blue
> if tutone
>
> 74A = ? This breaks down and translates to spring part numbers, but
> this format does not match the format in the 1991 service manual.
>
> Regards,
> Steve Spaulding
>
>
> "Theodore D.Mills" wrote:
> >
> > Ok Mr. Smeck....... tell me about my truck please.
> >
> > VIN 1FTHX26G6MKA73155
> > ---------
> > Info from door sticker
> >
> > Built 1/91
> >
> > GVWR 8800 GAWR/FRONT 3920 GAWR/REAR 6084
> >
> > WB
> > 155
> >
> > TYPE-GVW
> > X268
> >
> > BODY
> > FBM
> >
> > TRANS
> > E
> >
> > AXLE
> > C9
> >
> > TAPE
> > 1
> >
> > SPRINGS
> > 74A
> > ---------
> > What I'd like to know is what equipment is contained in trailer tow
option
> > and super cooling option?
> >
> > My owner's manual shows 3 different GCWR's (10,000 11,000 and 12,000 I
> > think) for my engine and axle ratio. Where do you find the GCWR??
> >
> > The axle code I have is (C9) is not listed in my owner's manual. I
checked
> > the tag on the rear and I found a line that says 3L55. Am I correct in
> > assuming that's 3.55 limited slip?
> >
> > The truck has the wiring for trailer tow (lights & electric brakes) but
it
> > had no extra tranny cooler. It has an engine oil cooler, but my Haynes
> > manual says all the 7.5's do. It also has a nice thick radiator, looks
like
> > 4 row.
> >
> > I have since added a 20,000 lb+ tranny cooler (better safe than sorry).
> >
> > I bought this truck to replace my 85 Ranger as the tow vehicle for my
> > camper (3000 lb), and I know that 3K is nothing for a 460, but I'd like
to
> > know how much room I have for expansion in the towing department.
Someday
> > I'd like to get a bigger camper.
> >
> > Maybe later I'll tell you what I had to do to the Ranger to get it to
tow
> > 3K with out cooking itself.....
> >
> > Thanks Ted
> >
> > Ted Mills N3KWQ
> >
> > 84 Mustang GT 5.0 (in pieces)
> > 85 Ranger 4X2 2.8L
> > 91 F-250 4X4X460 (The Beast)
> > 94 Taurus LX Wagon 3.8L
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 09:18:04 -0600
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Questions for the great & powerful Smeck

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Theodore D. Mills
.
> Does anybody know what the danger signs of impending doom are for the
E4OD?
> I've gathered from the list here that they're not on of Henry's better
> ideas in the early years.
> Mine's slow geting into reverse and it seems to have a lot of between
gears
> lag, sometimes....

Hey Ted, I've had good success curing sluggish shifting auto's with a
product called "Trans-x". It's a solvent that dissolves varnish deposits in
automatic tranny's. Readily available and has a money back guarantee. IMHO
worth a try if tranny's already going south and you wanna put off spending
the BIG bucks for a while 8^>
Smeck

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 11:13:18 -0800
From: "Hal Sylvan"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - U JOINTS

What is the procedure for changing u joints in a 91 F-350 dually with split
drive shaft?
The rear u joint is a standard bolt/strap in (easy) but the forward 2 appear
to be pressed into their yokes.

Thanks,
Hal Sylvan

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 11:23:45 -0500
From: "Troy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '84 F-150 Carb problems.

On 13 Nov 99, at 9:43, flagship worldnet.att.net wrote:

>I don't have any experience with ford carberetted engines but I had
>early model dodges. It doesn't sound like the engine is being choked
>out but in fact is to lean. When you depress the gas pedal on a cold
>engine the choke should close which also activates the fast idle cam.
>It should close the butterfly completely. As soon as the engine starts,
>vacuum through the choke pull off opens the choke about a quarter inch
>or so while still leaving the throttle on the fast idle. If yours is out
>of adjustment and pulls it open a little to far, the engine will die.
>Depressing the gas pedal again will close the choke and start the
>process again. This is easy to watch by having a friend start it while
>you watch with the air cleaner cover off. The linkage adjusts by
>bending the connection to shorten or lengthen the throw. That's how it
>works on earlier Chryslers anyway. Usually the choke pulloff (Or choke
>vacuum diaphram) fails by not opening at all in which case you get lots
>of black smoke until the engine heat opens the choke.. Hope this
>helps....

I have been over it a few times. The choke was set fine.

I called up the local Auto Zone and explained the problems to them
to see if it would be a possible vacuum problem, problem with the
choke pull-off, or if the carburetor is shot.

I mentioned the problems that I sent along with the original
message, and even mentioned the way the engine tries to die down
after it has been run for a while and I shut it off, say to run in and
get something out of a convience store or a quick trip to the
grocery store, restart the engine, back out of the parking lot, then
shift to drive and push on the gas, the engine tries to stall and then
will buck all of a sudden.

The manager mentioned the ignition control module. He asked me
to take the truck up to the store and they could test it out for me.
After arriving, I pulled the module off the truck and went inside. The
module was about completely shot.

I bout a replacement for it, ran me $16.95 for the one that mounts
over the wheel well, and he told me to take it on a test drive then
come back and tell him what I thought. Sure enough, it taken care
of a number of the problems with the rough idle while the engine
was hot, and the power loss and then the sudden buck as I
mentioned a few minutes ago.

I drove it for about 10 or 15 minutes, and then returned the store.
The manager then went out and re-adjusted the carburetor on my
truck, and tested the vacuum lines on the truck. The lines were
fine, but the carb was a little off.

I can say, I am VERY happy to report that it didn't need a new
carb, just a new module. I have no idea what all it controls, but the
truck is running better than it has before with just a simple
replacement.

This brings me to my next question. What all does that blasted
thing control? I'm wondering why the automatic overdrive doesn't
seem to be bogging as much while trying to build up speed after
slowing down, and what other functions it controls. Just wondering
why the thing has almost seemed like a miracle fix for my pickup.

Thanks again for all the assistance provided.

You might be a redneck if... At the dog track, you always bet on
the dog that 'does his business' right before the race starts.
- Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 11:53:16 EST
From: SlamedF150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - interval wiper switch

DON'T KNOW ABOUT THE WIPERS, BUT THE RADIO COME OUT BY INSERTING RADIO
REMOVAL TOOLS (WITCH U CAN GET AT ANY PARTS STORE) IN THE 4 SMALL HOLES ALONG
THE SIDE
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 13:30:10 EST
From: JohnFandR aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Interval Wiper Switch and Radio Removal

Whoa! I=92d like to know how to get into the wiper switch too.

To remove the radio. Make two squared off at the bottom "u"s with a coat=20
hanger. Make the up and down side pieces of the "u" about 3 to 4 inches lon=
g=20
and the left and right part at the bottom about 1 or 1 =BD inch long. Inser=
t=20
one into both holes on one side of the radio and the other on the other two=20
holes on the other side. When you feel them bottom out stop -- push in slig=
ht
ly. Pry (not too hard) toward the center of the radio with both "u" s at th=
e=20
same time. You're trying to move the points (that are inside the holes of=20
the radio) of the "u"s toward the middle. When you feel movement slide the=20
radio out.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 16:31:05 -0500
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: HeadGasket/Antifreeze

Best way to tell if you have a head gasket leak without
simply replacing the head gasket is to check each cylinder
for compression. If one or two of them are radically
different from the rest, drizzle some oil down the spark
plug hole of the low compression cylinder(s). If there is
no improvement when tested again, it is a good guess that
the head gasket is blown. Another sign to look for is oil
in the radiator.

> There has not been any alcohol in antifreeze for at least
> 30 years. Most of it is elthylene glycol based. The newer
> stuff has propylene glycol in it.

actually, the series of glycols are a type of alcohol, though they
are not of the same type that most people are used to referring
to as "alcohol". Glycols are alcohols which have two hydroxyl
( -OH ) groups in the molecule rather than one.

Ethylene glycol based antifreeze is the green stuff, and is lethal
if ingested. Animals seem to like it for some reason, so if you
drain the coolant, cover the container. Propylene glycol based
antifreeze is blue. It is not anywhere near as toxic as the ethylene
glycol stuff, but its still not good to let your pets get at it to drink,
and less likely to create problems if you spill some in the yard.

Both types are soluble in one another, and mixing them does
not destroy the cooling properties, but it does tend to render
the low toxicity benefits of the blue stuff pointless if mixed with
the green stuff.



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Nov 1999 09:50:41 +1100
From: les williams
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunking Noise

Michael McCarthy wrote:

> I had the same clunking noise on my '85 F150 and I discovered that the guy
> who did the brake job (me) left out one of the little tension springs for
> the caliper. Putting in the tension spring solved the problem.
> The tension spring is a little flat piece of metal with a slight curve to
> it. On my truck it goes in on top of the caliper unit and is lodged between
> the caliper unit and the brake housing. Because it pushes downward on the
> caliper it can make it more difficult to get the retaining pin back in and
> it is tempting to leave it out.
> I believe that this tension spring also maintains alignment of the caliper
> so it should probably be there to avoid twisting of the caliper unit when
> the brakes are applied. I had a caliper freeze up on me and it may have been
> associated with the missing spring.
> The springs are cheap (a couple of dollars) and easy to install.

Hi All,
I just had reason to replace the pads in my F100, and I tried very hard to
assemble the calliper back WITHOUT the curved spring in place with the locking
wedge, It's a bugger to assemble and secure. If you are going to fit new pads,
do yourself a favour and buy a spring kit Carlson of Ohio #5545 is the one I
just used. With a new spring & wedge in place, it just slid together, with a
gentle tap of a nylon hammer. Just like a bought one!!
I suppose the point is - This is the problem with repairs by 'mail. This forum
is the electronic equivalent of a few guys & their trucks meeting around the
back of the local servo on a Saturday Arvo, of 20 years or so, ago. Somebody
would be trying to do a tune, and someone else may be monkeying around with his
suspension. BUT if he was about to leave out something or do something totally
left of field, somebody would usually speak up, even if it was just to roast him
for his silly action. This forum does not have that fail safe devise for the DIY
set.

Ken Haley obviously has a talent in stringing words together on how to do a
job, but if you barely know the difference between a pair of mulit-grips or a
torque wrench, or a left-handed screw driver looks different to you, to a
right-handed version, you could still be in trouble. Whilst a 'Pro' may not know
everything, I believe a good mechanic knows it's right by 'the way' and 'the
feel' of how it goes back together. This 'feel' cannot be learnt out of a book
It's experience, how you certify that, I don't know - As an old mechanic told me
once ' It's like sex, you'll know when your doing it right!!'

...and I'm still having Fun.....doing it right, in a Ford....

regards

Les
Lost in the Land of OZ

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 18:45:48 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - U JOINTS

>What is the procedure for changing u joints in a 91 F-350 dually with split
>drive shaft?
>The rear u joint is a standard bolt/strap in (easy) but the forward 2 appear
>to be pressed into their yokes.
>

I prefer to cut the old joint's center out with a torch and then press the
caps out in a big vice with sockets. I have done it for years without
cutting the center out first, but you stand more of a chance of bending the
yokes out of line.

Putting the new joint in using one small socket (slightly smaller than the
inside of the yoke) and one large socket (the inside of the socket slightly
larger than the outside of the needle bearing) in a big vice is pretty
easy. Just have juggle a lot of things around and make sure the needles do
not fall out of turn sideways. Best to remove the grease fitting first.

I know this is easier to show than to explain.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 18:47:59 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Carburetor Jetting

>If I want to richen the fuel mixture during part throttle [1,500 rpm and up]
>on a 1985 carbureted 351W should I [1] go with bigger jets ? or [2] go with
>a power valve that opens sooner [at a lower vacuum]?

I think you want to get a power valve that opens at a higher vacuum, not lower.

Drilling out the jets will richen it, but I think it would be best to have
a good book on carburetor modifications.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 20:05:39 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Questions for the great & powerful Smeck

>
>You can try www.ownerconnection.com. They will answer questions about your
>truck.
>Jim
>
Or they will you do you like they did me, refer to your local dealer, where
I recieved bill for $182 for $9000+ repair estimate I didn't request when a
simple "No" would have answered my question.

I am not happy with Ford's customer service or the local dealer, who will
never see the inside of my wallet again.

Ken

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 20:17:47 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunking Noise

Les,

If one needs directions for sex, one ought not attempt to repair his
vehicle.

Ken

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 22:37:04 PST
From: "Will Wright"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Glow Plug Question....


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