From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #331
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80-96-list-digest Wednesday, November 24 1999 Volume 03 : Number 331



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: wrist pin and piston wall oiling
Re: FTE 80-96 - New To List / Questions
Re: FTE 80-96 - New To List / Questions
Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunking Noise
RE: FTE 80-96 - Water Pump
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: HeadGasket?
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: HeadGasket?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunking Noise
Fw: FTE 80-96 - re: HeadGasket?
Re: FTE 80-96 - New To List / Questions
Re: FTE 80-96 - Air lift bags to solve sag
Re: Fw: FTE 80-96 - re: HeadGasket?
Re: FTE 80-96 - New To List / Questions
FTE 80-96 - F150 XLT Door locks
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: wrist pin and piston wall oiling

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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 07:23:44 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: wrist pin and piston wall oiling

In a message dated 11/22/99 10:09:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
teacherdad hotmail.com writes:


is hard to break a 302 bottom end no matter what you do. >>
Ken,
You are correct there. The only time I have seen the bottom end come apart on
any 302/5.0 is when either the user let it run low on oil and threw a rod, or
when the user was beating the sheer crap outta the motor racing. Even so,
most of the time on the 5.0/5.8 blocks, the block itslef will come apart
quicker than the bottom end components. As an example, my buddy runs a 351w
in his street mustang. While racing it he hits it with a 300 hp shot of the
laughing gas in 2 stages, 125 off the line, 175 half track. He blew the motor
in October. After dissasembly, we found that it had slaughtered one of the
heads and cracked the block down the cam journals and along the #6 piston
water jacket. As far as the crank, rods and pistons go, they are in his NEW
block after some cleaning and polishing. Several 10 second time slips later,
still no problems from the bottom end again.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 06:51:44 -0600
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New To List / Questions

Jim Velasquez wonders........
> Can anyone on the list help decode this VIN: 2FDLF47G8LCA64012 ?


Welcome to Ford Trucks Jim!
VIN: 2FDLF47G8LCA64012 breaks down to...........

2FD = incomplete vehicle, mfd in Canada
L = hydraulic brakes, GVWR class 4, 14,001-16,000 lbs
F47 = has to do with model or line series, chassis, cab, or body type. My
book only goes up to F38. Maybe someone else can help?
G = 7.5 Liter EFI (460 gasoline)
8 = check digit
L = 1990 model year
C = assembled in Ontario
A64012 = production sequence number

Smeck 87 F150 302 T18


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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 08:50:56 -0500
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New To List / Questions

In my book, "F47" translates to: F-Super Duty (4x2) Chassis Cab, 14,500
GVW, 137" or 161" Wheelbase.

Jim, you mentioned before that you were looking for a bed for it...
There are a couple of things to consider. The wheel base is different
(133" for pickups), and the Chassis Cabs usually use a narrower axle
than pickups. I don't think a conventional dually bed will bolt right
up. There are a lot of utility beds that will fit perfectly.

Good luck with it...
Steve Spaulding

Steve Schmeckpeper wrote:
>
> Jim Velasquez wonders........
> > Can anyone on the list help decode this VIN: 2FDLF47G8LCA64012 ?
>
> Welcome to Ford Trucks Jim!
> VIN: 2FDLF47G8LCA64012 breaks down to...........
>
> 2FD = incomplete vehicle, mfd in Canada
> L = hydraulic brakes, GVWR class 4, 14,001-16,000 lbs
> F47 = has to do with model or line series, chassis, cab, or body type. My
> book only goes up to F38. Maybe someone else can help?
> G = 7.5 Liter EFI (460 gasoline)
> 8 = check digit
> L = 1990 model year
> C = assembled in Ontario
> A64012 = production sequence number
>
> Smeck 87 F150 302 T18
>
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 12:24:50 EST
From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunking Noise

mpmccarthy worldnet.att.net writes:

who did the brake job (me) left out one of the little tension springs for
the caliper. Putting in the tension spring solved the problem...... Because
it pushes downward on the caliper it can make it more difficult to get the
retaining pin back in and it is tempting to leave it out.. >>
Your little story sure raised the hair on my spine!! I recently uncovered
a do-it-yourselfers mistake on a brake job as being the cause of a fatal
accident. (currently charges are pending, poor fellow) Every piece of the
braking system is important! When in doubt, take it to a professional......
we all share the same streets.
Alex
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:29:32 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Water Pump

When removing the sfhroud and fan, put the bolts back where they came from.
No confusion there.

Get a muffin tinor an egg carton, set it atop the engine, put the bolts and
nuts you take off in the same relative positions in the pan as on the face
of the engine.

Some people set the new water pump in an accessible place and put the bolts
in the holes they came out of on the old pump. When ready to reassemble,
transfer the bolts to the old pump to keep things organized.

Ken


______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 11:11:32 -0800
From: Rob Bryan
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: HeadGasket?

> You need to get this problem checked out right away. The ONLY place green
> can come from is antifreeze. Unless it is a cracked head, it must be a head
> gasket.

This is wrong (at least the ONLY part). Ford issued a TSB a while ago about
"green" appearing in the exhaust condensation. It is a reaction between the
acids in the exhaust gases and residual chromium in the exhaust system. It
is completely normal (unless you determine that you are actually seeing
ethylene glycol). Ford's solution was to drill a small hole in the bottom
rear of the muffler to drain the condensation before it has a chance to sit
in the muffler and react. So unless through other tests (loss of coolant,
bubbles appearing in radiator, etc) you determine that this actually is
coolant, don't worry about it.

Rob
'90 Bronco
'93 PGT

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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 14:17:55 -0600
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: HeadGasket?

From: Rob Bryan

Ford issued a TSB a while ago about
> "green" appearing in the exhaust condensation. It is a reaction between
the
> acids in the exhaust gases and residual chromium in the exhaust system. It
> is completely normal (unless you determine that you are actually seeing
> ethylene glycol). Ford's solution was to drill a small hole in the bottom
> rear of the muffler to drain the condensation before it has a chance to
sit
> in the muffler and react. So unless through other tests (loss of coolant,
> bubbles appearing in radiator, etc) you determine that this actually is
> coolant, don't worry about it.

Hey Rob..........Thanks for the tip on the TSB! Thought provoking to say the
least!! I just installed a new "Ford" cat-back and was seeing the same
greenish condensation Rich described. Mine also lasted ~ 5min and
distappeared when things got hotted up. I (as Ken) thought twas antifreeze,
and wrote it off to a leaky head gasket. Now I'll take a harder look 8^))

Smeck 87 F150 302 T18 (new exhaust system w/greenish condensate)


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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 15:36:19 -0500
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunking Noise

I suppose that even and experienced mechanic or anyone else for that matter,
could make a mistake that ultimately have serious consequences. In an effort
to keep the postings short we do not always explain every detail of a
situation. If the truck were not safe I would not have been on the road with
it, believe me. Fact is, the brakes are perfectly safe without the tension
spring. Check it out. Just causes a clunk and probably lead to my caliper
failure. (BTW - I found the missing spring after the caliper failed and I
replaced it. A "professional" did the original brake job. Perhaps he left it
out, perhaps I did, who knows.)

But you do raise and interesting point. How far is too for in the repair of
your own vehicle? I believe that most people who work extensively on their
own vehicles are much more cautious than the average "professional" that is
under pressure to produce revenue for the business. ANYBODY, can make a
mistake, and there, but for the grace of God, go any of us. Just my opinion.

- -----Original Message-----
From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunking Noise


>mpmccarthy worldnet.att.net writes:
>
guy
> who did the brake job (me) left out one of the little tension springs for
> the caliper. Putting in the tension spring solved the problem......
Because
>it pushes downward on the caliper it can make it more difficult to get the
>retaining pin back in and it is tempting to leave it out.. >>
> Your little story sure raised the hair on my spine!! I recently
uncovered
>a do-it-yourselfers mistake on a brake job as being the cause of a fatal
>accident. (currently charges are pending, poor fellow) Every piece of the
>braking system is important! When in doubt, take it to a professional......
>we all share the same streets.
>Alex
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>

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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 16:08:18 -0600
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Fw: FTE 80-96 - re: HeadGasket?

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Schmeckpeper

" I (as Ken) thought twas antifreeze,"

OOPS! Meant to say (as Blake)
Sorry,
Absentminded Smeck


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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 19:52:24 -0500
From: "Theodore D. Mills"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New To List / Questions

Hey Smeck....

Will your code book tell you if the truck had options like trailer tow
package?

I have some questions.


"This message brought to you with 100% recycled electrons"
"Just the latest in environmentally friendly technology!"


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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 19:16:27 -0600
From: "DannyF"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Air lift bags to solve sag

> Hi,
>
> Does anyone have experience with those air bags in the front coils? The
> front springs in my '96 F-150 4x4 are starting to sag and I was wondering
> if
> this would cure it. I was also thinking of adding a leaf in the back
> springs. Will this give me about an inch of lift?

As an alternative, you can use coil spring shims/spacers. I'm not
talking about the junk you place between coils. These are cast
alum units that go between the lower spring mount. Cost: $12-15
ea. Available from better fr. end shops. Come in increments up to
2" last I saw.

Its the correct way to get more height out of coil spring w/o
screwing up the spring characteristics. Exactly what blueprinting
shops do to valve springs(smaller scale) to get correct spring
height.

Maybe the bags have improved but I always used to have trouble
w/them. Air leakage, seals blowing and then after age, tears in the
rubber
Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 20:15:06 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: Fw: FTE 80-96 - re: HeadGasket?

>----- Original Message -----
>From: Steve Schmeckpeper
>
>" I (as Ken) thought twas antifreeze,"
>
>OOPS! Meant to say (as Blake)
>Sorry,
>Absentminded Smeck

Collect some of it and determine what it is. The only time I have seen
green liquid coming from an exhaust, it has been antifreeze.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 20:52:24 -0600
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New To List / Questions

Ask away. If I can't answer one of the other listers can for sure 8^>
The Ford Truck Spec's book is where I got the VIN decode info. I didn't see
any info on towing packages in there, just the individual componants like
axles-trannys-engines-springs-brakes,etc. But my owners manual has a whole
section on trailer towing. Check your vehicle data code sticker for info on
your tranny axle and springs. Mine sticker is on the drivers side door
pillar.
Smeck
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Theodore D. Mills

> Hey Smeck....
>
> Will your code book tell you if the truck had options like trailer tow
> package?


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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 22:13:20 -0500
From: "Bob Munday"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F150 XLT Door locks

Hi people,

I have been a member of this list for about 5 months and have enjoyed
reading everyone's messages. Have gotten some really good information from
this list. Now I have a problem that I can not figure out.

The driver side door is very hard to unlock with the key. The electric
button works great and you can manually pull up on the latch inside the door
and it works fine also. Here is where it gets tricky, if the door is open I
can unlock and lock it with the key no problem. When I shut the door then it
is very hard to unlock with the key (almost to the point you think you will
break the key). Another little twist, I have had to replace the alternator
twice in the last 6 months, be it dumb luck or not when I had the battery
disconnected last night I used the key to unlock the door and it worked very
easy. After I hooked up the battery I tried to unlock the shut door and it
was very hard again.

I have had the door apart and could find nothing wrong with the mechanism,
anyone got any ideas? I'm getting a little tired of unlocking the passenger
side door before I get in the truck.

Bob Munday


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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 20:32:08 +1100
From: les williams
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: wrist pin and piston wall oiling

FLR150 aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 11/22/99 10:09:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> teacherdad hotmail.com writes:
>
>
> is hard to break a 302 bottom end no matter what you do. >>
> Ken,
> You are correct there. The only time I have seen the bottom end come apart on
> any 302/5.0 is when either the user let it run low on oil and threw a rod, or
> when the user was beating the sheer crap outta the motor racing. Even so,
> most of the time on the 5.0/5.8 blocks, the block itslef will come apart
> quicker than the bottom end components............................
> Later
> Wayne Foy
> '94 Flareside SC

The 302w comes with a good reputation but under Group 'C' racing in Oz, which
means you only use genuine ford parts, we were necking rods, stretching rod
bolts, 'Puttin the leg outa bed' and and even shattering stock rocker gear, in
less than 1,000 k's around the Bathurst Circuit.

Now the race is under Group 'A' rules, so'hot rod', SVO blocks & parts are
allowed - and it appears we still can break them......... this is not normal
usage, I agree, but if you really set your mind to it, It can be done... :-))....

---

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