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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #326
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80-96-list-digest Friday, November 19 1999 Volume 03 : Number 326



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - hesitation
Re: FTE 80-96 - Spam anyone?
FTE 80-96 - Timing
Re: FTE 80-96 - Timing
FTE 80-96 - Electric fans
FTE 80-96 - Ranger
FTE 80-96 - fuel pump problem 92 f150 w/302
FTE 80-96 - Cool F-550
FTE 80-96 - pull on braking
Re: FTE 80-96 - Questions for you'se knowledgable folks
RE: FTE 80-96 - Questions for you'se knowledgable folks
Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal
FTE 80-96 - Intro and a few Q's
Re: FTE 80-96 - Questions for you'se knowledgable folks
Re: FTE 80-96 - Intro and a few Q's
Re: FTE 80-96 - Timing
Re: FTE 80-96 - Ranger
Re: FTE 80-96 - Intro and a few Q's
Re: FTE 80-96 - Intro and a few Q's
Re: FTE 80-96 - Electric fans
Re: FTE 80-96 - Intro and a few Q's
FTE 80-96 - Shock Absorbers
Re: FTE 80-96 - Shock Absorbers
Re: FTE 80-96 - fuel pump problem 92 f150 w/302
Re: FTE 80-96 - TOYOTA LIST ... OFF TOPIC
Re: FTE 80-96 - Questions for you'se knowledgable folks

=======================================================================

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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 06:11:02 -0500
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - hesitation

Chris,

You can check the codes yourself without buying a code scanner. All you need
is a voltmeter. Many of the Ford manuals and emission control manuals tell
you all about the codes and how to hook up a voltmeter to read them.
However, I am not sure that the hesitation problem you have will cause a bad
code. I had a hesitation problem that did not give any bad code readings.
Caution, unless you have a considerable amount of spare time, and a desire
to tinker with your truck, you may not ever find the hesitation problem.
Unfortunately, there is no easy answer to the hesitation problem. Well
actually there is one. Replace the truck. I'll assume that is not a viable
alternative. It could be caused by the electrical system, fuel system,
emissions control system or virtually any other system.

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA

- -----Original Message-----
From: SlamedF150 aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 6:51 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - hesitation


>IM not down with all this code stuff can u tell me what it consists of. and
>what codes should i be filmilar with
>
>Chris
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>

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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 06:28:40 -0600
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Spam anyone?

- ----- Original Message -----
From:

> Fred,
>
> NEVER respond to them to remove you from the list. Even if it's an
> above board company and they do remove you from their list, you have now
> confirmed you have a valid email address and you read your mail which
> makes it easier to resell the list. Just hit delete.

IMHO this is the best approach.
Smeck

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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 07:04:25 -0600
From: "Moore, Jimmy"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Timing

I have an '81 F-150, with the classic 300 six banger, and I need to adjust
the timing. I replaced the timing gears (which is NO easy task) and also
changed the plugs (Autolite) and wires (local autozone brand). No, it seems
to miss. Someone said bring the number one piston up, but I have no earthly
idea how to do this. I assume it is where the number one spark plug is, but
I am not sure if that is a bad assumption. Can I take the plug out, and
shine a light in there, and see the piston? If so, how do I get it up, and
how do I know it's up. Then, once it is up, what do I do? Do I need to
adjust the distributer?

Also, I am wanting to put a stronger rear end in the truck. Not a faster
one, but one with more power. I believe I need to get one with a lower gear
ratio. However, I am stuck here, because I'm not sure how to know what the
gear ratios are. How do I know what the gear ratio is on my current axle,
and then, what axle should I get? Do I need to make any other changes,
i.e., the drive shaft or transmission changes or modifications? I know the
axle in it now is not the original. I had to change the drivers side axle,
and I got an '81, but it was too long, or too short, I don't remember. Come
to find out, the axle is from an '82. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Jim
Oklahoma City
1981 F-150 - 300 Six Automatic
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 08:38:57 -0500
From: slikness mindspring.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Timing

Jim wrote:

>Someone said bring the number one piston up, but I have no earthly
idea how to do this.

The easy way to do this is find your timing pointer and rotate the engine (by hand) to 0 degrees. That would be top dead center if the timing chain was put in properly. One way to check is to remove the plug and slide a small 8-9" long dowel into the #1 plug hole (and yes, the #1 plug fires the #1 cylinder, should be the front plug) and watch the dowel as you rotate the engine. When the dowel is all the way to the top (before it starts down again), that's top-dead-center or 0 degrees on your pointer.

Then, once it is up, what do I do? Do I need to
adjust the distributer?

Rotate the engine until it reaches 10 degrees before top-dead-center (BTDC), pull the distributor cap off and see if the rotor is pointing to the number one plug wire. If not, rotate the distributor until the pointer lines up with the number one plug wire. This will insure that the number one cylinder fires at 10 BTDC.

How do I know what the gear ratio is on my current axle,
and then, what axle should I get? Do I need to make any other changes,i.e., the drive shaft or transmission changes or modifications?

There should be a tag on the passenger side of the axle with two rows of numbers and letters. The second row should begin with something like 2 73. That would correspond to a 2.73 ratio rear. Remember as you lower your gear ratio, you raise your RPMs at highway speeds which will lower your gas mileage. Also, as you get larger tires, you raise your ratio and start loosing your power. If you have an overdrive transmission you should be able to lower your ratio into the upper 3s. If not, then stick to the lower to mid 3s.

Hope that helps,

Slik
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 08:54:34 -0500
From: slikness mindspring.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Electric fans

Someone posted yesterday asking questions on electric fans. I'm running dual 12" Flex-a-Lite fans on the front of my 351W. I put them on when I swapped out my 300 I6 for the 351 so I don't have comparison info to give you. My electrics do a great job once they were adjusted correctly. Some things to look for:

1) CFM, get the largest cfm fan or fans that you can get. Check out Vintage Air and Spal for some really great 16" high-velocity fans.

2) See if you can get a shroud with your fan that covers the majority of your radiator.

3) Check the type of thermostat that comes with the fan and how does it install. Mine had a bulb that slipped into the top of the radiator hose and it did not work well. I could not keep the radiator hose tight. I ended up strapping the thermostat bulb to the outside of my radiator hose with a hose clamp. My hoses are the metal Cool-Flex hoses so they transfer heat to the buld fairly well. Some have temp units that replace your drain petcock and these seem to work fairly well from what I read.

4) Make sure you can add a switch to manually start your fan. If you stop for a while then start up again, especially in city driving, you will sometimes want your fan on even before the thermostat opens to heat the upper radiator hose. Then you can turn it off and let it run normally through it's temp cycles.

5) A big advantage is working on the front of the engine without the fan and the big shroud in the way. It is a lot safer adjusting your distributor, etc.

Hope that helps,

Slik
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 09:26:19 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Ranger

There is an '87 Ranger that my bank is taking bids on, and I've always kinda
wandered what it would be like to have one of these little trucks with a HOT 302
or maybe a 351W in it. Will either of them fit with out too much modification
to the front??? I don't have a clue as to how it is currently equipped?? Don't
know if I will even bid on it if you guys tell me it will accept the small V8s,
but I've always been curious. If it is equipped well and has a good body, and
will accept the small V8, I might try it.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 09:09:07 -0600
From: dale fortenberry jr
Subject: FTE 80-96 - fuel pump problem 92 f150 w/302

I have a 92 f150 with a 302 and dual tanks. My mechanic tells me my
rear tank fuel pump is slowly dying. It makes a lot of noise. Any
suggestions on replacing it? I am afraid of the cost of a ford pump.
Are there any aftermarket ones available? I also hear this is not a fun
thing to replace (tank has to be removed). Any tips?

Thanks in advance,

Dale Fortenberry Jr.
Smithwick Texas

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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 10:04:22 -0500
From: Paul M Radecki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Cool F-550

Dave Whipkey posted:
>>If you wanna see a cool truck, go to
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bickfordmotors.com/customtrucks.htm
>>Check out the F-550. They have a neat headache rack that takes up the
space
>>between the cab and the factory bed. I guess the frame is longer on
the
>>F-550?

The chassis-cab trucks have a longer wheelbase than the pickups,
probably the same as Brand X and Brand Y so that standard aftermarket
bodies will fit.
This F-550 pickup is my dream truck! Make mine a diesel 4X4 (6X6?).
I notice that they didn't post the price on the website, though...
probably at least triple what I paid for my '94 F-150. *SIGH* Thanks
for the pix, Dave. At least now I know where to get one after I get
rich.

lordjanusz juno.com
'94 F-150
'73 F-100
'98 VT1100 Aero

___________________________________________________________________
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 12:42:38 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - pull on braking

Phil writes: >>Finally, after a couple of trips back and forth, the guy
adjusts the
REAR brakes.

Problem Solved.

Sounds like Ford trucks have gone to the opposite and "katty cornered" type of
braking system as I found on our M*PARS..

Used to be that the fronts were activated by the piston of the master cyl
nearest the cowl, and the rears were activated by the piston furtherest from the
cowl. On the M*PARS I refer to, it is now one front and the opposite rear brake
actuated by the same piston of the master cyl. and the other two actuated by
the other piston. Confused the tar out of me the 1st time I bled the brakes.
If this is the case and your right rear was grossely loose, then the left front
would actuate much quicker, therefore the "pull" to the left.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 12:10:34 -0800
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Questions for you'se knowledgable folks

>Hi all,
>
> I have a couple of questions for ya'll. I am a frequent lurker as I
>usually have no valuable input usually, but like to see what people are
>doing and fixing on their Fords.
>
>Anyway, here goes:
>
>1. Has anyone with a single battery added a second one? My 89 F-350 would
>like a second. I have heard that it's easy, but I went to find a second
>factory tray today and the diesels have a traditional aircleaner on top of
>the engine. I was told that the factory optional second battery and the
>second one on the diesels have a relocation bracket for the overflow/wiper
>bottle combo. I don't know how that would work as my airbox is RIGHT behind
>the bottle, which is where the battery would be. I have a few other
>options: A) a spiral cell/gell cell with a battery buddy B)put the second
>battery in the bed as I have a canopy, and the gell cells don't need a vent
>C) Get a stinger 1000. This is made for guys with 5000 watt stereos and is
>a dry cell w/1000 CCA.
> Any ideas fellas? I had a second battery on my last truck (a '73 F-250)
>and it saved my ass a couple of times.

I've been thinking about a second battery but haven't done any serious
research on it. I did lift the hood and look into the engine compartment.
No room to spare here. However, if you take a look under the box on the
passenger side, there is a great big cavity there just waiting to be
filled. Seems to me this would be the spot to install an Aux. battery. An
enclosed, watertight, steel battery box strapped to the frame rail should
do it. Question is, Does an aftermarket solution exist? A custom job maybe?

mark


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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 15:55:12 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Questions for you'se knowledgable folks

Dave,

I mounted a rather large deep cycle gel cell UNDER the bed by the frame.
Like you, I discovered little room in the engine compartment for a second
battery without major modifications. My requirement was not for starting the
engine but to remove some of the load from the motor for accessories like
interior lights for the topper, stereo, ham radio gear, and the electrical
outlet. Standard lead acid batteries do not deep cycle and I like to run the
radio continuously. I tapped into the (never used) 12V charging line that
existed in the trailer harness. The trailer towing package has all the
battery charging circuits for charging a second battery. I picked the
battery up at an RV store.

As for the power window, my guess it is the motor. Typically the most used
part of any electrical system is the one that does the most work or has
moving parts. I had to replace mine once but it was on the drivers side and
was the one that got used the most. It is kind of unusual the passenger one
went out so I suppose it could be jammed linkage.

Good luck let us know what you do,
Scott
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 18:36:00 EST
From: RQTHOMSON aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal

Not a real complicated job. My 83 had a one piece seal & no special tools
were needed. Like the manual says, drill two small holes in the seal, install
two small sheet metal screws & pry it out. Clean the area up, lube the new
seal & carefully install it. The main problem was getting the transmission
out of the way. But at the time (about 5 years & 70k miles ago) I was losing
about a quart every 100 miles & there wasn't a lot of options. After that my
oil loss dropped to about a quart every 2000 miles and has held that rate
since.
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 19:27:41 EST
From: CJ5FL aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Intro and a few Q's

Howdy y'all, just thought I'd drop y'all a line and tell you who I am. I
just got on the list this afternoon. I'm also on many Jeep lists as I have a
79 CJ5 too. Anyway, I'm looking at buying a mid to late 80's Ford F150 or
F250. I was wondering when the 4.9L went from the carb to EFI? Also, I'd
like to use it for towing and a daily driver. Anything I should try to stay
away from or to look for? I only have about $4000 to play with here as I'm
just graduating from college. I've looked up in NC where I'm moving and see
that I can get some good trucks for that price, but not sure if there are
things to stay away from. I've heard that there were problems with the E4OD
in the early years, anyone have any? I've had a Ranger before, but that's a
far cry from a F150 or 250. LOL Anyway, nice to meet y'all, and if you have
any hints or tips like us Jeepers have on looking for trouble on a used
vehicle, let me know. If you need any Jeep info, e mail me off line and I'll
help y'all out.
Rich
79 CJ5
Looking for a truck
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 16:49:58 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Questions for you'se knowledgable folks

Dave,

First thing I'd try is remove the motor and try to turn it by hand. If it is
locked up I'd hit it with a few skirts of penetrating oil and work the shaft
gently until it freed up. Sometimes I've had to keep a motor wet with
periodic squirts of penetrating oil for an hour or two, but eventually the
shaft will turn. Once the shaft is turning freely a liberal shower of WD-40
gets an amazing amount of rusty funk out. Plug the wires in and see if it
works. I've had about a 90% success rate with recently frozen electric
motors with this procedure.

About 9% of the time new brushes solve the problem. Someone built that motor
for Ford. Odds are an industrial power supply house can come up with brushes
that fit. If the bearings/bushings are garbage, odds are the power supply
place can find some Oilites to fit, too.

1% of the time a bad motor is actually a wire problem. You may be up to the
tedium of rewinding one, but I'm not.

I'm not sure what the window riser hardware is like in your truck, but
whenever I have a door panel off I always prop the door open and hit all the
pivots and guides with penetrating oil about 5 times in an hour, then wash
everything with WD-40. Once the WD-40 evaporates I work a dab of white
grease into all the pivots and guides. I do the door locks and latches while
I'm there, too. When I bought my 86 Mustang, 2 of the windows barely worked,
1 was stuck completely, and the 4th had to be pulled up while the button was
held. Lacking time to do the motors, I just did the penetrating
oil/WD-40/white grease thing on the pivots and guides. That was 2 years ago
and everything is still working fine. The fella who sold the car did so
because the dealer estimated over $600 to fix the windows. $6 in chemicals,
$10 in door panel tool and clips, and 2 hours.

I do the penetrating oil/WD-40/white grease thing on hinges, locks, and
latches, too. The 3 Broncos I have running have hood hinges so slick that if
you close the hood but don't latch it(like when using a battery charger),
and park it facing into a good wind, the hood will open by itself. Closing
the hood is a 1 finger job, latches and all.

I've bought old vehicles that never saw much more than an oil change, used
chemicals wisely to get things freed up, and never had to rework anything
again.

I've an 83 Bronco I bought in 89 with 137 000 miles showing. It had been
completely submerged in a flood, and every motor on it was frozen. All the
original motors are still on the truck and working perfectly, except the
starter, which wouldn't fit the 460 I put in. The starter is on my daily
driver and still working fine.

The penetrating oil/WD-40/white grease combo also works wonders on noisy and
sticky cables, linkages, and sticky drum brake adjusters. I've even done the
convertible top frames on my Mustang convertibles. For cables, remove them
from the vehicle and hang them vertically. Make a funnel out aluminum foil
and duct tape to hold a puddle of penetrating oil, and gravity will do the
rest. Might take a few days, though. Once the penetrating oil, flows freely
through the cable, flush it with WD-40. It is amazing how much gunk will
sometimes come out of a cable. Pull the wire as far out of the sheath as you
can, wipe it down with white grease, then pull it out the other end of the
sheath and coat it there, too. I did emergency brake cables this way, then
damaged one a couple years later and had to replace it. Over time, the white
grease had worked it's way along the entire sheath.

I hope this info saves you the cost of a new motor and helps with all the
nagging stickies that never seem to end.

Ken

P.S. The white grease I use is the QuickSilver stuff from Mercury Marine for
use on outboard pivots and linkages. This stuff holds up to regular dunkings
in salt water and is overkill for our needs, but the extremely high price of
the stuff is paid back in hours of time saved redoing the same
clean-and-relube stuff ever couple of years. I also use the stuff very
thinly on caliper bolts and the little spots where brake shoes touch the
backing plates.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 20:08:54 -0500
From: flagship worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Intro and a few Q's

Rich,

I can't tell you what to look for in a used 250 but I watch ebay for
trucks occassionally. currently there is an 87 4wd for 4500 in Richmond,
Va. If she doesn't get any bids you may email her and work out a better
deal. The ebay item number is 200841408. Good luck....

CJ5FL aol.com wrote:
>
> Howdy y'all, just thought I'd drop y'all a line and tell you who I am. I
> just got on the list this afternoon. I'm also on many Jeep lists as I have a
> 79 CJ5 too. Anyway, I'm looking at buying a mid to late 80's Ford F150 or
> F250. I was wondering when the 4.9L went from the carb to EFI? Also, I'd
> like to use it for towing and a daily driver. Anything I should try to stay
> away from or to look for? I only have about $4000 to play with here as I'm
> just graduating from college. I've looked up in NC where I'm moving and see
> that I can get some good trucks for that price, but not sure if there are
> things to stay away from. I've heard that there were problems with the E4OD
> in the early years, anyone have any? I've had a Ranger before, but that's a
> far cry from a F150 or 250. LOL Anyway, nice to meet y'all, and if you have
> any hints or tips like us Jeepers have on looking for trouble on a used
> vehicle, let me know. If you need any Jeep info, e mail me off line and I'll
> help y'all out.
> Rich
> 79 CJ5
> Looking for a truck
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 17:19:37 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Timing

Slik wrote:

Remember as you lower your gear ratio, you raise your
RPMs at highway speeds which will lower your gas mileage.

This isn't always true. Sometimes an engine will actually run more
efficiently at a higher RPM than current gearing allowed. My daily driver
gets better fuel mileage at 70 (18.9) than at 55 (17.1). Go figure.

Years ago I had a Pontiac that returned 4 mpg more at 80 than at 55. I'm not
sure exactly what the point on the torque curve that is most efficient, but
every vehicle I've ever had has seemed to have a certain speed range it
really liked to run. That "happy" speed always seemed to return the best
mileage. If the "happy" speed is not the speed you want to run, try this
formula to determine the gear ratio you need:

(new gears) = (new speed) X (old gears) / (happy speed)

That will put the happy engine speed and the speed you want to go together.

Ken

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 17:22:05 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Ranger

Azie,

I've seen Rangers with 302s. Hooker makes mounts and headers.

Ken

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 21:13:13 EST
From: CJ5FL aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Intro and a few Q's

Thank you for that tip, I'd forgotten all about Ebay. Bit far from
Charlotte, and I'm in Fla for another 3 months. I'm trying to narrow down
what I should get for my needs. I'd love a nice short bed 4x4 F250, but I
have a feeling for $4000 that won't happen to easily. But, once again,
thanks for the hint, I'll have to watch for more stuff on there.
Rich
79 CJ5

> Rich,
>
> I can't tell you what to look for in a used 250 but I watch ebay for
> trucks occassionally. currently there is an 87 4wd for 4500 in Richmond,
> Va. If she doesn't get any bids you may email her and work out a better
> deal. The ebay item number is 200841408. Good luck....
>
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 18:22:15 -0800
From: Rob Bryan
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Intro and a few Q's

The first year for EFI on the 4.9L I-6 was 1987. 1988+ trucks with manual
transmissions will have 5 speeds instead of 4.

Rob

> From: CJ5FL aol.com
> Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 19:27:41 EST
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Intro and a few Q's
>
> Howdy y'all, just thought I'd drop y'all a line and tell you who I am. I
> just got on the list this afternoon. I'm also on many Jeep lists as I have a
> 79 CJ5 too. Anyway, I'm looking at buying a mid to late 80's Ford F150 or
> F250. I was wondering when the 4.9L went from the carb to EFI? Also, I'd
> like to use it for towing and a daily driver. Anything I should try to stay
> away from or to look for? I only have about $4000 to play with here as I'm
> just graduating from college. I've looked up in NC where I'm moving and see
> that I can get some good trucks for that price, but not sure if there are
> things to stay away from. I've heard that there were problems with the E4OD
> in the early years, anyone have any? I've had a Ranger before, but that's a
> far cry from a F150 or 250. LOL Anyway, nice to meet y'all, and if you have
> any hints or tips like us Jeepers have on looking for trouble on a used
> vehicle, let me know. If you need any Jeep info, e mail me off line and I'll
> help y'all out.
> Rich
> 79 CJ5
> Looking for a truck
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 20:21:06 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Electric fans

At 08:54 18/11/99 -0500, Slik wrote:
>Someone posted yesterday asking questions on electric fans. I'm running
dual 12" Flex-a-Lite fans on the front of my 351W. I put them on when I
swapped out my 300 I6 for the 351 so I don't have comparison info to give
you. My electrics do a great job once they were adjusted correctly. Some
things to look for:

>
>4) Make sure you can add a switch to manually start your fan. If you stop
for a while then start up again, especially in city driving, you will
sometimes want your fan on even before the thermostat opens to heat the
upper radiator hose. Then you can turn it off and let it run normally
through it's temp cycles.

You also need to wire something in to make sure the fan(s) run when you
have the A/C compressor running, even if the engine is cold. It is really
bad for the system to not have that air blowing on the A/C condenser. The
head pressures will climb very quickly if you are not moving.


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 22:27:19 EST
From: CJ5FL aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Intro and a few Q's

OK, guess I'm looking for 88 and later then. I was told by a few truck
owners the I6 and 5 spd is a great combo for what I want to do with it. One
more question, did a tow package mean bigger brakes for them too? I'd like
to find one with a factory package on there. Thanks guys, you've been a help
already.
Rich

> The first year for EFI on the 4.9L I-6 was 1987. 1988+ trucks with manual
> transmissions will have 5 speeds instead of 4.
>
> Rob
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 19:29:50 -0800
From: "Mark Behling"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Shock Absorbers

Looking into buying new shocks, since the OEM shocks have felt worn-out since truck was
new and have progressively become worse. Looking to keep the truck from bouncing too
much after bump or dip, but still want a decent freeway ride over the expansive joints.
Just wondering if anybody has any experience with the following brands?

Gabriel protruck gas shocks +ACQ-24 each
(Most economical choice from Pep boys)

Bilstein gas shocks +ACQ-60 each
(They claim to be one of the best shocks you can buy, used on Mercedes and Chevy trucks
(Yuk+ACE-) offroad package upgrade)

Rancho RS9000 +ACQ-70 each
(I like the fact that they are adjustable, but could be just a gimmick)

Mark
San Diego, CA
'96 F150 I6 5spd






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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 22:53:00 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Shock Absorbers

In a message dated 11/18/99 10:34:01 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mbehling earthlink.net writes:


(Most economical choice from Pep boys)

Bilstein gas shocks +ACQ-60 each
(They claim to be one of the best shocks you can buy, used on Mercedes and
Chevy trucks
(Yuk+ACE-) offroad package upgrade)

Rancho RS9000 +ACQ-70 each
(I like the fact that they are adjustable, but could be just a gimmick)

Mark
San Diego, CA
'96 F150 I6 5spd
>>
Mark,
I run the Gabriels on my truck. I like them. Also just for info, my truck is
a 1994 Flareside SC, with towing package, lowered 2" front/3" rear, and I
drag race with it so the shocks have to be able to stand up to some heavy
punishment in the rear. Also just for info, Gabriels, Monroes and Ranchos are
all made in the same factory. Just different valves and names put on them. As
far as the Rancho adjustables go, unless you do some heavy duty offroading,
or haul unbalanced loads, then they are a bit much for a daily driven truck.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
#2 Fun Ford Weekend
Top Truck Class 1999
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 21:55:58 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - fuel pump problem 92 f150 w/302

At 09:09 18/11/99 -0600, Dale wrote:
>I have a 92 f150 with a 302 and dual tanks. My mechanic tells me my
>rear tank fuel pump is slowly dying. It makes a lot of noise. Any
>suggestions on replacing it? I am afraid of the cost of a ford pump.
>Are there any aftermarket ones available? I also hear this is not a fun
>thing to replace (tank has to be removed). Any tips?

Dropping tank is not too bad, if as empty as possible. Lay on your back and
take the weight as you unhook straps at top. Some guys have removed bed and
left tank in place, then worked on pump from above. Sounds harder to me...

Bite the bullet on the Ford pump.


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 22:43:30 -0600
From: "DannyF"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - TOYOTA LIST ... OFF TOPIC

>
> Can anyone steer me to a good Toyota discussion list? Preferably one that
> deals with Camries from the late 80's? I know there's got to be one with
> so
> many of the things driving around all over the place.

For a complete listing of mailing lists go to www.liszt.com

Theres a general Toyota list and theres alt.autos.toyota as
newsgroup.

Just got a '89 Camry myself as a second vehicle.
Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 22:43:30 -0600
From: "DannyF"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Questions for you'se knowledgable folks

>
> 2. I just had my passenger side power window stop working. It's not
> the
> switch, because the switch shows a draw on the factory volt meter. (I....


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