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From: owner-80-96-list-digest
To: 80-96-list-digest Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #324 Reply-To: 80-96-list Sender: owner-80-96-list-digest Errors-To: owner-80-96-list-digest Precedence: bulk 80-96-list-digest Wednesday, November 17 1999 Volume 03 : Number 324 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: FTE 80-96 - Distributor RE: FTE 80-96 - Another pinging problem FTE 80-96 - 1995 Ford Explorer Re: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Ford Explorer Re: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Ford Explorer FTE 80-96 - Bronco Drivetrain slack FTE 80-96 - ZF and M5OD gearing... FTE 80-96 - Source for EEC-IV computers or chips? FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal Re: FTE 80-96 - Bronco Drivetrain slack Re: FTE 80-96 - '84 F-150 Carb problems. FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Don't post your chain letters and urban legends to the lists! Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal FTE 80-96 - Newbie Q Re: FTE 80-96 - Newbie Q FTE 80-96 - 96 f-150 fuel distribution problem Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal Re: FTE 80-96 - ZF and M5OD gearing... ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 08:49:05 EST From: MRStace84 Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Distributor I did this with my '84 F150 with a 300, I converted it from a TFI-IV to a Duraspark II. Out of a 78 Mercury Marquis with a 460, I got the ignition coil and mounting bracket, ignition module, and all the the wiring harness under the hood. If I remeber right, the section that plugs to the ignition coil, and igniton module will completely unplug, but you will need the round two prong connector that plugs into one side of the ingnition module, and goes throuh the firewall. Then from my local autoparts store, I got a distributor, cap and rotor button for a '78 300 six. I swapped out the distributors, mounted the new coil, and ingniton module. Then from a Chilton's manual I got the wiring diagrams for a '78 F150 and a '84 F150. This told me where I need to make my new connections. It's been about a year since I did this, and I don't remeber the exact wire colors or anything, but there was about three solder connections that I had to make. When I was changing it over, I use wire nuts for temporary connectors, then once I was sure that I had it right, I used solder and heat shrink tubing to make permanet connections. Then to finish the job, I added a piece of vaccum hose from the distributor to the vaccum branch tree, and it worked great. I was very pleased, the truck runs great. I hope this helps, but if you need more information feel free to ask, I might even be able to dig around a find what the wires are that need to be spliced. Stacy 84 F150 4x4 98 Ranger XLT 4x4 In a message dated 11/15/99 8:50:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, 7X30WATERS I have a 1986 F-150, 302 cid, two barrel carb, computer controlled distributor. The engine is an older engine and not fuel injected like the tag states. The computer is also not working and brings on the problem of the distributor not advancing. Having a limited budget can I go to a wrecking yard and purchase an older electronic distributor and install it? What do I need to make this work assuming I can make it work? What wiring would I need? Just a hot from the wiring harness going into the distributor now? Anything I am overlooking? Thank for the help Allen Lubbock Texas >> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 07:46:56 -0700 From: "Glenn Koepnick" Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Another pinging problem I had this similar problem with the pinging and lack of power. I replaced the EGR, spark plugs, and wires. Didn't help. Turned out to be a weak coil. Another piece in the whole electrical puzzle. Good luck. Glenn Koepnick Tucson, Arizona == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 10:08:12 -0500 From: Barbara McGill Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Ford Explorer I was wondering if anybody had any advice regarding a 1995 Ford Explorer. I am thinking of purchasing one from an acquintance of mine. The vehicle has app. 86,000 mi. on it, it is a 2 door red Explorer(pretty much fully loaded). He is asking $10,000. Is it outlandish to pay this much for a vehicle with mileage this high? I have been in two accidents in the passed two months in my small car and I am hoping to regain some sense of security...your expertise would be greatly appreciated. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 08:49:08 -0800 From: Bob Kennedy Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Ford Explorer If it test drives fine, the 4x4 works, no major body damage or leaks. That's a pretty good deal. Bob Barbara McGill wrote: > I was wondering if anybody had any advice regarding a 1995 Ford > Explorer. I am thinking of purchasing one from an acquintance of mine. > The vehicle has app. 86,000 mi. on it, it is a 2 door red > Explorer(pretty much fully loaded). He is asking $10,000. Is it > outlandish to pay this much for a vehicle with mileage this high? I > have been in two accidents in the passed two months in my small car and > I am hoping to regain some sense of security...your expertise would be > greatly appreciated. > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 08:44:45 PST From: "Christopher Worley" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Ford Explorer Barb, Go to the link below and get an aproximate value for yourself, it might actually give you a leg to stand on when bargining for the truck http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.kbb.com Chris >From: Barbara McGill >Reply-To: 80-96-list >To: 80-96-list >Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Ford Explorer >Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 10:08:12 -0500 > >I was wondering if anybody had any advice regarding a 1995 Ford >Explorer. I am thinking of purchasing one from an acquintance of mine. >The vehicle has app. 86,000 mi. on it, it is a 2 door red >Explorer(pretty much fully loaded). He is asking $10,000. Is it >outlandish to pay this much for a vehicle with mileage this high? I >have been in two accidents in the passed two months in my small car and >I am hoping to regain some sense of security...your expertise would be >greatly appreciated. > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 11:37:51 -0800 From: Mike Hughes Subject: FTE 80-96 - Bronco Drivetrain slack Greetings - I am experiencing a problem with my 88 Bronco. (302, E4OD) I keep hearing a clunking noise that sounds like it is caused by too much slack in the drivetrain. The clunking is evident when the transmission starts to downshift. If I accelerate right after the transmission downshifts, it usually clunks back into gear. This is also apparent when in overdrive & I let off the gas. When I step back on the gas, I hear (and feel) the clunk. The rear end has been recently rebuilt. Could there be excessive slack in the transfercase chain that is causing this? Anyone else experience this kind of slack in the drivetrain? Please help, as I can't find the source of this slack. Thanks! Mike H. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 12:44:12 -0700 From: Fred Moreno Subject: FTE 80-96 - ZF and M5OD gearing... Mark is right on with the gearing, minor differences I noted right out of the Ford book (bible?); Mazda M5OD: 3.39:1 (Reverse), 3.9:1, 2.25:1, 1.50:1, 1:1, 0.8:1 ZF Model S5-42 Close Ratio (Diesel): 3.79:1(Reverse), 4.14:1, 2.37:1, 1.42:1, 1:1, 0.77:1 ZF Model S5-42 Wide Ratio (Gasoline & Diesel): 5.24:1(Reverse), 5.72:1, 2.94:1, 1.61:1, 1:1, 0.76:1 According to my 1995 Ford Service manual, the model number S5-42 can be described as S meaning Synchronized transmission, 5 designates the number of forward gears, and 42 is the approximate maximum input torque capacity in tens of lb-ft. So for this tranny, 42 implies it can accept 420 ft-lb of input torque capacity. The wide ratio is made available for all vehicles over 8500lbs GVW, all engines except F-Super Duty Commercial Stripped Chassis w/diesel. The close ratio is for 7.3L diesel engines and GVW over 8500lbs. Phred == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 13:48:45 -0600 From: "David Anderson (EUS)" Subject: FTE 80-96 - Source for EEC-IV computers or chips? Besides the Ford dealer, does anyone know of a place to buy either entire computer boxes or chips? This could include second sources, used, or who knows what. I'm looking to put in a later version "calibration", specified with numbers like 0-52J-R00 and the VIN. I'm not talking about Superchips and others offering performance chips, just up to date Ford chips sets. David Anderson == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 19:35:41 -0500 From: Peter Wong Subject: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal I've found a small oil leak between the block and auto transmission housing on my 87 F-150 with I-6 motor. I suspect its the rear main seal. Does someone have basic info on the procedure and/or service/parts costs involved? I suppose I can live with this minor problem but I'm curious as to the effort that might warrant its repair. Thanks in advance. Peter Charlotte, NC == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 16:47:17 -0800 From: "Tony & Chris Phaneuf" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Bronco Drivetrain slack have u checked your u joint..........could be the problem........if your truck is lifted they will wear out alot quicker than normal. hope this helps. Tony P. - -----Original Message----- From: Mike Hughes To: 80-96-list Cc: offroad-list Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 11:48 AM Subject: FTE 80-96 - Bronco Drivetrain slack >Greetings - >I am experiencing a problem with my 88 Bronco. (302, E4OD) >I keep hearing a clunking noise that sounds like it is caused >by too much slack in the drivetrain. The clunking is evident >when the transmission starts to downshift. If I accelerate right >after the transmission downshifts, it usually clunks back into >gear. This is also apparent when in overdrive & I let off the gas. >When I step back on the gas, I hear (and feel) the clunk. The rear >end has been recently rebuilt. Could there be excessive slack in the >transfercase chain that is causing this? Anyone else experience this >kind of slack in the drivetrain? Please help, as I can't find the source >of this slack. Thanks! > Mike H. >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 20:08:59 -0500 From: "Troy" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '84 F-150 Carb problems. On 14 Nov 99, at 21:06, Michael McCarthy wrote: >The fast idle after start is normal. What is actually happening is that the >computer is checking out the system by advancing the timing on startup. It >isn't a carb problem. Turning off the key and restarting the truck is used >to eliminate the fast idle start up when checking the computer and is also >normal. I know the fast idle is normal. In fact, I want it to fast idle when I start it. The problem is, after the first start it will fast idle for a few seconds, and then it chokes itself out. The RPMs drop and the engine dies a couple seconds later. I have to press the gas to the floor once again, release, and then hit the key in order to get it started again. Then it'll fast idle like a normal vehicle should. >The hesitation seems to be a problem that a lot of us are dealing with in >varying degrees. I screwed around with my carb for a long time only to >discover that I had a problem with the emission control system. Actually, >several problems. Stuck EGR valve, vacuum leaks and bad valves in the heated >air intake system. Maybe checking on other things instead of sticking with >the carb is the next step. Thanks for the idea. I did notice the truck needs a pre-heater hose, that might have a little something to do with it. I will also try replacing the vacuum lines this weekend. I don't know if it's been done, and who knows, some might be cracked, etc. I'll give that a shot this weekend and see how it does the following week. I'm looking for more suggestions to try. Thanks. You might be a redneck if... Your pocket knife often doubles as a toothpick. - Jeff Foxworthy Troy Williams == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 20:45:29 -0500 From: "slik" Subject: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal If it is the rear seal, it means dropping your oil pan to replace. You will probably have to loosen the engine mounts and raise the engine and pull the pan. However, check the valve cover gasket. It may be leaking and running down the back of the engine. Slik - ----- Original Message ----- > I've found a small oil leak between the block and auto transmission > housing on my 87 F-150 with I-6 motor. I suspect its the rear main seal. > Does someone have basic info on the procedure and/or service/parts > costs involved? I suppose I can live with this minor problem but I'm > curious as to the effort that might warrant its repair. Thanks in > advance. > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 20:24:53 -0600 From: Jim Cannon Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal Hey, Slik- Have you done this on the I-6 engine before (drop the pan and replace the seal)? I have not done it yet, but my engine neds it. I read through my shop manual and it implied that you had to drop the transmission and pull the flywheel. When you do that, then the oil seal just pries out and you tap the new one in. I have not done it myself, though, so I was wondering if you had. Thanks! At 20:45 16/11/99 -0500, Slik wrote: >If it is the rear seal, it means dropping your oil pan to replace. You will >probably have to loosen the engine mounts and raise the engine and pull the >pan. However, check the valve cover gasket. It may be leaking and running >down the back of the engine. > >Slik > >----- Original Message ----- > >> I've found a small oil leak between the block and auto transmission >> housing on my 87 F-150 with I-6 motor. I suspect its the rear main seal. >> Does someone have basic info on the procedure and/or service/parts >> costs involved? I suppose I can live with this minor problem but I'm >> curious as to the effort that might warrant its repair. Thanks in >> advance. >> > > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > Jim Cannon Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech '29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!" '80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 21:43:15 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Don't post your chain letters and urban legends to the lists! In the future any forwarding "gullibility viruses", i.e., chain emails containing urban legends or "virus" warnings, will be uns*bscribed. Its a major hassle dealing with them, especial when they have files attached and bounce off the list filters. Never forward emails without first checking out the facts. Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 19:13:53 PST From: "ken haley" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal Okay, folks, a quick explanation of rear main seals: There are 2 types of rear main seals: 1-piece and 2-piece. 1-piece seals can only be replaced by removing the flywheel or flexplate, whichever the vehicle is equipped with. Of course, the tranny and case must come off to do so. 2-piece seals do not require dropping the tranny, case, flywheel, etc. Instead, you drop the oil pan, loosen the main bearing caps, and hope you can get the oil pan resealed, which requires more sealing surface prep than most people are willing to do while stuck under a truck with all that oil dripping and such. Either way, it's a pain in the beegeezus, so if it isn't too bad, most folks just live with it. Of course, those of us who drive trucks without all the bells and whistles can pull the engine, change the seal (1-piece), and have it all back together in about 2 hours. The old seal pries out with a screwdriver quite easily. Ford tool number T82L-6701-A is used to install a 1-piece seal, or an appropriately machined piece polyurethane and a rubber hammer, which is what I use. I don't think either style of seal performs better than the other, but Ford gets to sell you a tool if you go by the book replacing the 1-piece. Good luck! Ken ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 19:56:29 PST From: "Christopher Worley" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal I replaced the rear seal on my '93 F150 (the shop manual told me to refer to the I-6 Seal placement) It is a one piece seal. Drain and remove the tranny, remove the flywheel, and you are there. I used a scratch awl to poke 2 holes in the old seal and a large screw driver to pry it out, DO NOT use just a screw drive as you will knick the mating surface. Took me about two days and about $50 bucks (seal, trans fluid 16qts., tanny filter, and oil and filter) to complete the job. The Haynes repair manual is really clear on the steps check it out. Good Luck, Chris Worley >From: Peter Wong >Reply-To: 80-96-list >To: 80-96-list >Subject: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal >Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 19:35:41 -0500 > >I've found a small oil leak between the block and auto transmission >housing on my 87 F-150 with I-6 motor. I suspect its the rear main seal. >Does someone have basic info on the procedure and/or service/parts >costs involved? I suppose I can live with this minor problem but I'm >curious as to the effort that might warrant its repair. Thanks in >advance. > >Peter >Charlotte, NC > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 19:58:36 PST From: "Christopher Worley" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal A piece of four inch PVC pipe and a Hammer is what I used to seat the new seal. >From: "ken haley" >Reply-To: 80-96-list >To: 80-96-list >Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal >Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 19:13:53 PST > >Okay, folks, a quick explanation of rear main seals: > >There are 2 types of rear main seals: 1-piece and 2-piece. > >1-piece seals can only be replaced by removing the flywheel or flexplate, >whichever the vehicle is equipped with. Of course, the tranny and case must >come off to do so. > >2-piece seals do not require dropping the tranny, case, flywheel, etc. >Instead, you drop the oil pan, loosen the main bearing caps, and hope you >can get the oil pan resealed, which requires more sealing surface prep than >most people are willing to do while stuck under a truck with all that oil >dripping and such. > >Either way, it's a pain in the beegeezus, so if it isn't too bad, most >folks >just live with it. Of course, those of us who drive trucks without all the >bells and whistles can pull the engine, change the seal (1-piece), and have >it all back together in about 2 hours. The old seal pries out with a >screwdriver quite easily. Ford tool number T82L-6701-A is used to install a >1-piece seal, or an appropriately machined piece polyurethane and a rubber >hammer, which is what I use. > >I don't think either style of seal performs better than the other, but Ford >gets to sell you a tool if you go by the book replacing the 1-piece. > >Good luck! >Ken > >______________________________________________________ > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 20:47:43 -0800 From: "Tom Humphreys" Subject: FTE 80-96 - Newbie Q Hi, I just bought an '83 F250. I used to own an '80 F150 several years ago that the PO had put a 351M into. This F250 has an inline 6 in it. My question is: Is this the original engine? Did Ford make a 250 with a 6 cylinder? If so, what engine is it? And so on... All replies welcomed Tom Humphreys, West Seattle '71 Westy "Mach Schnell" '67 Beetle '83 F250 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 21:32:57 -0800 From: "Radoje Spasojevic" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Newbie Q My father has an E-250 van with a 300-6 so I would assume they are available in F-250's as well. Rade Spasojevic -- rspasoje http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.2bigbroncos.org/ http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=194 - -Rubicon Tested- - -----Original Message----- From: Tom Humphreys To: 80-96-list Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 8:45 PM Subject: FTE 80-96 - Newbie Q >Hi, > >I just bought an '83 F250. I used to own an '80 F150 several years ago that >the PO had put a 351M into. This F250 has an inline 6 in it. My question >is: Is this the original engine? Did Ford make a 250 with a 6 cylinder? If >so, what engine is it? And so on... > >All replies welcomed > >Tom Humphreys, West Seattle >'71 Westy "Mach Schnell" >'67 Beetle >'83 F250 > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 22:36:05 -0700 From: "martin w raue" Subject: FTE 80-96 - 96 f-150 fuel distribution problem My 1996 f-150 has start problem with engine hot using front gas tank. "Check engine" light constant only with front tank (reset codes weekly). With front tank empty and only running on rear tank, front tank mysteriously fills-up. Could this be tank-switch over mechanism? Have to use oxygenated fuel in winter time. Martin from desert-El Paso would appreciate any news....Thanks. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 00:40:07 -0500 From: "slik" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal You shouldn't have to pull the flywheel. The rear seal sits on the oil pan at the bottom of the crank shaft. Once the oil pan is removed, you need to pull it out and clean out the area where the gasket was. Then get a one piece pan and seal gasket and replace everything. I've done it on my 351W (new engine, but had to replace the oil pan), but not on the 300. - ----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Cannon > Hey, Slik- > Have you done this on the I-6 engine before (drop the pan and replace the > seal)? I have not done it yet, but my engine neds it. I read through my > shop manual and it implied that you had to drop the transmission and pull > the flywheel. When you do that, then the oil seal just pries out and you > tap the new one in. I have not done it myself, though, so I was wondering > if you had. Thanks! > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 22:12:26 PST From: "ken haley" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal I tried PVC pipe but it broke. My neighbor uses PVC with a cap glued on, with about 1/2 inch of pipe sticking out past the cap. 2-3 good tappets with a wooden mallet and it's home. Ken ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 02:17:10 -0600 From: Blake Malkamaki Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ZF and M5OD gearing... >Mark is right on with the gearing, minor differences I noted right out of >the Ford book (bible?); > >Mazda M5OD: >3.39:1 (Reverse), 3.9:1, 2.25:1, 1.50:1, 1:1, 0.8:1 > >ZF Model S5-42 Close Ratio (Diesel): >3.79:1(Reverse), 4.14:1, 2.37:1, 1.42:1, 1:1, 0.77:1 > >ZF Model S5-42 Wide Ratio (Gasoline & Diesel): >5.24:1(Reverse), 5.72:1, 2.94:1, 1.61:1, 1:1, 0.76:1 > > According to my 1995 Ford Service manual, the model number S5-42 can be >described as S meaning Synchronized transmission, 5 designates the number of >forward gears, and 42 is the approximate maximum input torque capacity in >tens of lb-ft. So for this tranny, 42 implies it can accept 420 ft-lb of >input torque capacity. > > The wide ratio is made available for all vehicles over 8500lbs GVW, all >engines except F-Super Duty Commercial Stripped Chassis w/diesel. The close.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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