From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #324
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80-96-list-digest Wednesday, November 17 1999 Volume 03 : Number 324



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Distributor
RE: FTE 80-96 - Another pinging problem
FTE 80-96 - 1995 Ford Explorer
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Ford Explorer
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Ford Explorer
FTE 80-96 - Bronco Drivetrain slack
FTE 80-96 - ZF and M5OD gearing...
FTE 80-96 - Source for EEC-IV computers or chips?
FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal
Re: FTE 80-96 - Bronco Drivetrain slack
Re: FTE 80-96 - '84 F-150 Carb problems.
FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal
Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Don't post your chain letters and urban legends to the lists!
Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal
Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal
Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal
FTE 80-96 - Newbie Q
Re: FTE 80-96 - Newbie Q
FTE 80-96 - 96 f-150 fuel distribution problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal
Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal
Re: FTE 80-96 - ZF and M5OD gearing...

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 08:49:05 EST
From: MRStace84 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Distributor

I did this with my '84 F150 with a 300, I converted it from a TFI-IV to a
Duraspark II. Out of a 78 Mercury Marquis with a 460, I got the ignition
coil and mounting bracket, ignition module, and all the the wiring harness
under the hood. If I remeber right, the section that plugs to the ignition
coil, and igniton module will completely unplug, but you will need the round
two prong connector that plugs into one side of the ingnition module, and
goes throuh the firewall. Then from my local autoparts store, I got a
distributor, cap and rotor button for a '78 300 six. I swapped out the
distributors, mounted the new coil, and ingniton module. Then from a
Chilton's manual I got the wiring diagrams for a '78 F150 and a '84 F150.
This told me where I need to make my new connections. It's been about a year
since I did this, and I don't remeber the exact wire colors or anything, but
there was about three solder connections that I had to make. When I was
changing it over, I use wire nuts for temporary connectors, then once I was
sure that I had it right, I used solder and heat shrink tubing to make
permanet connections. Then to finish the job, I added a piece of vaccum hose
from the distributor to the vaccum branch tree, and it worked great. I was
very pleased, the truck runs great. I hope this helps, but if you need more
information feel free to ask, I might even be able to dig around a find what
the wires are that need to be spliced.

Stacy

84 F150 4x4
98 Ranger XLT 4x4




In a message dated 11/15/99 8:50:41 PM Eastern Standard Time,
7X30WATERS PRODIGY.NET writes:


I have a 1986 F-150, 302 cid, two barrel carb, computer controlled
distributor. The engine is an older engine and not fuel injected like the
tag states. The computer is also not working and brings on the problem of
the distributor not advancing. Having a limited budget can I go to a
wrecking yard and purchase an older electronic distributor and install it?
What do I need to make this work assuming I can make it work? What wiring
would I need? Just a hot from the wiring harness going into the distributor
now? Anything I am overlooking?

Thank for the help

Allen
Lubbock Texas >>
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 07:46:56 -0700
From: "Glenn Koepnick"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Another pinging problem

I had this similar problem with the pinging and lack of power.
I replaced the EGR, spark plugs, and wires.
Didn't help.

Turned out to be a weak coil.
Another piece in the whole electrical puzzle.

Good luck.

Glenn Koepnick
Tucson, Arizona

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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 10:08:12 -0500
From: Barbara McGill
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Ford Explorer

I was wondering if anybody had any advice regarding a 1995 Ford
Explorer. I am thinking of purchasing one from an acquintance of mine.
The vehicle has app. 86,000 mi. on it, it is a 2 door red
Explorer(pretty much fully loaded). He is asking $10,000. Is it
outlandish to pay this much for a vehicle with mileage this high? I
have been in two accidents in the passed two months in my small car and
I am hoping to regain some sense of security...your expertise would be
greatly appreciated.

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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 08:49:08 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Ford Explorer

If it test drives fine, the 4x4 works, no major body damage or leaks.
That's a pretty good deal.

Bob


Barbara McGill wrote:

> I was wondering if anybody had any advice regarding a 1995 Ford
> Explorer. I am thinking of purchasing one from an acquintance of mine.
> The vehicle has app. 86,000 mi. on it, it is a 2 door red
> Explorer(pretty much fully loaded). He is asking $10,000. Is it
> outlandish to pay this much for a vehicle with mileage this high? I
> have been in two accidents in the passed two months in my small car and
> I am hoping to regain some sense of security...your expertise would be
> greatly appreciated.
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 08:44:45 PST
From: "Christopher Worley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Ford Explorer

Barb,
Go to the link below and get an aproximate value for yourself, it might
actually give you a leg to stand on when bargining for the truck

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.kbb.com

Chris

>From: Barbara McGill
>Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1995 Ford Explorer
>Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 10:08:12 -0500
>
>I was wondering if anybody had any advice regarding a 1995 Ford
>Explorer. I am thinking of purchasing one from an acquintance of mine.
>The vehicle has app. 86,000 mi. on it, it is a 2 door red
>Explorer(pretty much fully loaded). He is asking $10,000. Is it
>outlandish to pay this much for a vehicle with mileage this high? I
>have been in two accidents in the passed two months in my small car and
>I am hoping to regain some sense of security...your expertise would be
>greatly appreciated.
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 11:37:51 -0800
From: Mike Hughes
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Bronco Drivetrain slack

Greetings -
I am experiencing a problem with my 88 Bronco. (302, E4OD)
I keep hearing a clunking noise that sounds like it is caused
by too much slack in the drivetrain. The clunking is evident
when the transmission starts to downshift. If I accelerate right
after the transmission downshifts, it usually clunks back into
gear. This is also apparent when in overdrive & I let off the gas.
When I step back on the gas, I hear (and feel) the clunk. The rear
end has been recently rebuilt. Could there be excessive slack in the
transfercase chain that is causing this? Anyone else experience this
kind of slack in the drivetrain? Please help, as I can't find the source
of this slack. Thanks!
Mike H.
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 12:44:12 -0700
From: Fred Moreno
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ZF and M5OD gearing...

Mark is right on with the gearing, minor differences I noted right out of
the Ford book (bible?);

Mazda M5OD:
3.39:1 (Reverse), 3.9:1, 2.25:1, 1.50:1, 1:1, 0.8:1

ZF Model S5-42 Close Ratio (Diesel):
3.79:1(Reverse), 4.14:1, 2.37:1, 1.42:1, 1:1, 0.77:1

ZF Model S5-42 Wide Ratio (Gasoline & Diesel):
5.24:1(Reverse), 5.72:1, 2.94:1, 1.61:1, 1:1, 0.76:1

According to my 1995 Ford Service manual, the model number S5-42 can be
described as S meaning Synchronized transmission, 5 designates the number of
forward gears, and 42 is the approximate maximum input torque capacity in
tens of lb-ft. So for this tranny, 42 implies it can accept 420 ft-lb of
input torque capacity.

The wide ratio is made available for all vehicles over 8500lbs GVW, all
engines except F-Super Duty Commercial Stripped Chassis w/diesel. The close
ratio is for 7.3L diesel engines and GVW over 8500lbs.

Phred

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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 13:48:45 -0600
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Source for EEC-IV computers or chips?

Besides the Ford dealer, does anyone know of a place to buy either entire
computer boxes or chips? This could include second sources, used, or who
knows what. I'm looking to put in a later version "calibration", specified
with numbers like 0-52J-R00 and the VIN. I'm not talking about Superchips
and others offering performance chips, just up to date Ford chips sets.
David Anderson

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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 19:35:41 -0500
From: Peter Wong
Subject: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal

I've found a small oil leak between the block and auto transmission
housing on my 87 F-150 with I-6 motor. I suspect its the rear main seal.
Does someone have basic info on the procedure and/or service/parts
costs involved? I suppose I can live with this minor problem but I'm
curious as to the effort that might warrant its repair. Thanks in
advance.

Peter
Charlotte, NC

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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 16:47:17 -0800
From: "Tony & Chris Phaneuf"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Bronco Drivetrain slack

have u checked your u joint..........could be the problem........if your
truck is lifted they will wear out alot quicker than normal. hope this
helps.

Tony P.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Hughes
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Cc: offroad-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 11:48 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Bronco Drivetrain slack


>Greetings -
>I am experiencing a problem with my 88 Bronco. (302, E4OD)
>I keep hearing a clunking noise that sounds like it is caused
>by too much slack in the drivetrain. The clunking is evident
>when the transmission starts to downshift. If I accelerate right
>after the transmission downshifts, it usually clunks back into
>gear. This is also apparent when in overdrive & I let off the gas.
>When I step back on the gas, I hear (and feel) the clunk. The rear
>end has been recently rebuilt. Could there be excessive slack in the
>transfercase chain that is causing this? Anyone else experience this
>kind of slack in the drivetrain? Please help, as I can't find the source
>of this slack. Thanks!
> Mike H.
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 20:08:59 -0500
From: "Troy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - '84 F-150 Carb problems.

On 14 Nov 99, at 21:06, Michael McCarthy wrote:

>The fast idle after start is normal. What is actually happening is that the
>computer is checking out the system by advancing the timing on startup. It
>isn't a carb problem. Turning off the key and restarting the truck is used
>to eliminate the fast idle start up when checking the computer and is also
>normal.

I know the fast idle is normal. In fact, I want it to fast idle when I
start it. The problem is, after the first start it will fast idle for a few
seconds, and then it chokes itself out. The RPMs drop and the
engine dies a couple seconds later. I have to press the gas to the
floor once again, release, and then hit the key in order to get it
started again. Then it'll fast idle like a normal vehicle should.

>The hesitation seems to be a problem that a lot of us are dealing with in
>varying degrees. I screwed around with my carb for a long time only to
>discover that I had a problem with the emission control system. Actually,
>several problems. Stuck EGR valve, vacuum leaks and bad valves in the heated
>air intake system. Maybe checking on other things instead of sticking with
>the carb is the next step.

Thanks for the idea. I did notice the truck needs a pre-heater hose,
that might have a little something to do with it. I will also try
replacing the vacuum lines this weekend. I don't know if it's been
done, and who knows, some might be cracked, etc. I'll give that a
shot this weekend and see how it does the following week.

I'm looking for more suggestions to try. Thanks.

You might be a redneck if... Your pocket knife often doubles as
a toothpick. - Jeff Foxworthy


Troy Williams
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 20:45:29 -0500
From: "slik"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal

If it is the rear seal, it means dropping your oil pan to replace. You will
probably have to loosen the engine mounts and raise the engine and pull the
pan. However, check the valve cover gasket. It may be leaking and running
down the back of the engine.

Slik

- ----- Original Message -----

> I've found a small oil leak between the block and auto transmission
> housing on my 87 F-150 with I-6 motor. I suspect its the rear main seal.
> Does someone have basic info on the procedure and/or service/parts
> costs involved? I suppose I can live with this minor problem but I'm
> curious as to the effort that might warrant its repair. Thanks in
> advance.
>


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 20:24:53 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal

Hey, Slik-
Have you done this on the I-6 engine before (drop the pan and replace the
seal)? I have not done it yet, but my engine neds it. I read through my
shop manual and it implied that you had to drop the transmission and pull
the flywheel. When you do that, then the oil seal just pries out and you
tap the new one in. I have not done it myself, though, so I was wondering
if you had. Thanks!

At 20:45 16/11/99 -0500, Slik wrote:
>If it is the rear seal, it means dropping your oil pan to replace. You will
>probably have to loosen the engine mounts and raise the engine and pull the
>pan. However, check the valve cover gasket. It may be leaking and running
>down the back of the engine.
>
>Slik
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
>> I've found a small oil leak between the block and auto transmission
>> housing on my 87 F-150 with I-6 motor. I suspect its the rear main seal.
>> Does someone have basic info on the procedure and/or service/parts
>> costs involved? I suppose I can live with this minor problem but I'm
>> curious as to the effort that might warrant its repair. Thanks in
>> advance.
>>
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 21:43:15 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Don't post your chain letters and urban legends to the lists!

In the future any forwarding "gullibility viruses", i.e., chain
emails containing urban legends or "virus" warnings, will be
uns*bscribed. Its a major hassle dealing with them, especial
when they have files attached and bounce off the list filters.
Never forward emails without first checking out the facts.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 19:13:53 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal

Okay, folks, a quick explanation of rear main seals:

There are 2 types of rear main seals: 1-piece and 2-piece.

1-piece seals can only be replaced by removing the flywheel or flexplate,
whichever the vehicle is equipped with. Of course, the tranny and case must
come off to do so.

2-piece seals do not require dropping the tranny, case, flywheel, etc.
Instead, you drop the oil pan, loosen the main bearing caps, and hope you
can get the oil pan resealed, which requires more sealing surface prep than
most people are willing to do while stuck under a truck with all that oil
dripping and such.

Either way, it's a pain in the beegeezus, so if it isn't too bad, most folks
just live with it. Of course, those of us who drive trucks without all the
bells and whistles can pull the engine, change the seal (1-piece), and have
it all back together in about 2 hours. The old seal pries out with a
screwdriver quite easily. Ford tool number T82L-6701-A is used to install a
1-piece seal, or an appropriately machined piece polyurethane and a rubber
hammer, which is what I use.

I don't think either style of seal performs better than the other, but Ford
gets to sell you a tool if you go by the book replacing the 1-piece.

Good luck!
Ken

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 19:56:29 PST
From: "Christopher Worley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal

I replaced the rear seal on my '93 F150 (the shop manual told me to refer to
the I-6 Seal placement) It is a one piece seal. Drain and remove the
tranny, remove the flywheel, and you are there. I used a scratch awl to
poke 2 holes in the old seal and a large screw driver to pry it out, DO NOT
use just a screw drive as you will knick the mating surface. Took me about
two days and about $50 bucks (seal, trans fluid 16qts., tanny filter, and
oil and filter) to complete the job. The Haynes repair manual is really
clear on the steps check it out.


Good Luck,
Chris Worley


>From: Peter Wong
>Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal
>Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 19:35:41 -0500
>
>I've found a small oil leak between the block and auto transmission
>housing on my 87 F-150 with I-6 motor. I suspect its the rear main seal.
>Does someone have basic info on the procedure and/or service/parts
>costs involved? I suppose I can live with this minor problem but I'm
>curious as to the effort that might warrant its repair. Thanks in
>advance.
>
>Peter
>Charlotte, NC
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 19:58:36 PST
From: "Christopher Worley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal

A piece of four inch PVC pipe and a Hammer is what I used to seat the new
seal.


>From: "ken haley"
>Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal
>Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 19:13:53 PST
>
>Okay, folks, a quick explanation of rear main seals:
>
>There are 2 types of rear main seals: 1-piece and 2-piece.
>
>1-piece seals can only be replaced by removing the flywheel or flexplate,
>whichever the vehicle is equipped with. Of course, the tranny and case must
>come off to do so.
>
>2-piece seals do not require dropping the tranny, case, flywheel, etc.
>Instead, you drop the oil pan, loosen the main bearing caps, and hope you
>can get the oil pan resealed, which requires more sealing surface prep than
>most people are willing to do while stuck under a truck with all that oil
>dripping and such.
>
>Either way, it's a pain in the beegeezus, so if it isn't too bad, most
>folks
>just live with it. Of course, those of us who drive trucks without all the
>bells and whistles can pull the engine, change the seal (1-piece), and have
>it all back together in about 2 hours. The old seal pries out with a
>screwdriver quite easily. Ford tool number T82L-6701-A is used to install a
>1-piece seal, or an appropriately machined piece polyurethane and a rubber
>hammer, which is what I use.
>
>I don't think either style of seal performs better than the other, but Ford
>gets to sell you a tool if you go by the book replacing the 1-piece.
>
>Good luck!
>Ken
>
>______________________________________________________
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 20:47:43 -0800
From: "Tom Humphreys"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Newbie Q

Hi,

I just bought an '83 F250. I used to own an '80 F150 several years ago that
the PO had put a 351M into. This F250 has an inline 6 in it. My question
is: Is this the original engine? Did Ford make a 250 with a 6 cylinder? If
so, what engine is it? And so on...

All replies welcomed

Tom Humphreys, West Seattle
'71 Westy "Mach Schnell"
'67 Beetle
'83 F250

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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 21:32:57 -0800
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Newbie Q

My father has an E-250 van with a 300-6 so I would assume they are available
in F-250's as well.

Rade Spasojevic -- rspasoje mindspring.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.2bigbroncos.org/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=194
- -Rubicon Tested-
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tom Humphreys
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 8:45 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Newbie Q


>Hi,
>
>I just bought an '83 F250. I used to own an '80 F150 several years ago
that
>the PO had put a 351M into. This F250 has an inline 6 in it. My question
>is: Is this the original engine? Did Ford make a 250 with a 6 cylinder?
If
>so, what engine is it? And so on...
>
>All replies welcomed
>
>Tom Humphreys, West Seattle
>'71 Westy "Mach Schnell"
>'67 Beetle
>'83 F250
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 22:36:05 -0700
From: "martin w raue"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 96 f-150 fuel distribution problem

My 1996 f-150 has start problem with engine hot using front gas tank.
"Check engine" light constant only with front tank (reset codes weekly).
With front tank empty and only running on rear tank, front tank mysteriously
fills-up. Could this be tank-switch over mechanism? Have to use oxygenated
fuel in winter time. Martin from desert-El Paso would appreciate any
news....Thanks.

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Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 00:40:07 -0500
From: "slik"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal

You shouldn't have to pull the flywheel. The rear seal sits on the oil pan
at the bottom of the crank shaft. Once the oil pan is removed, you need to
pull it out and clean out the area where the gasket was. Then get a one
piece pan and seal gasket and replace everything. I've done it on my 351W
(new engine, but had to replace the oil pan), but not on the 300.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Cannon

> Hey, Slik-
> Have you done this on the I-6 engine before (drop the pan and replace the
> seal)? I have not done it yet, but my engine neds it. I read through my
> shop manual and it implied that you had to drop the transmission and pull
> the flywheel. When you do that, then the oil seal just pries out and you
> tap the new one in. I have not done it myself, though, so I was wondering
> if you had. Thanks!
>


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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 22:12:26 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - rear engine seal

I tried PVC pipe but it broke. My neighbor uses PVC with a cap glued on,
with about 1/2 inch of pipe sticking out past the cap. 2-3 good tappets with
a wooden mallet and it's home.

Ken

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 02:17:10 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ZF and M5OD gearing...

>Mark is right on with the gearing, minor differences I noted right out of
>the Ford book (bible?);
>
>Mazda M5OD:
>3.39:1 (Reverse), 3.9:1, 2.25:1, 1.50:1, 1:1, 0.8:1
>
>ZF Model S5-42 Close Ratio (Diesel):
>3.79:1(Reverse), 4.14:1, 2.37:1, 1.42:1, 1:1, 0.77:1
>
>ZF Model S5-42 Wide Ratio (Gasoline & Diesel):
>5.24:1(Reverse), 5.72:1, 2.94:1, 1.61:1, 1:1, 0.76:1
>
> According to my 1995 Ford Service manual, the model number S5-42 can be
>described as S meaning Synchronized transmission, 5 designates the number of
>forward gears, and 42 is the approximate maximum input torque capacity in
>tens of lb-ft. So for this tranny, 42 implies it can accept 420 ft-lb of
>input torque capacity.
>
> The wide ratio is made available for all vehicles over 8500lbs GVW, all
>engines except F-Super Duty Commercial Stripped Chassis w/diesel. The close....


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