80-96-list-digest V3 #323

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80-96-list-digest Tuesday, November 16 1999 Volume 03 : Number 323

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - New Thread--On-line Maps
FTE 80-96 - re: cruise
FTE 80-96 - RE: F-150 2" receiver up front?
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: cruise
FTE 80-96 - '84 F-150 Carb Problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: F-150 2" receiver up front?
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: F-150 2" receiver up front?
FTE 80-96 - Another pinging problem
FTE 80-96 - Another pinging problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas tanks
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: F-150 2" receiver up front?
Re: [FTE 80-96 - Another pinging problem]
Re: [FTE 80-96 - Another pinging problem]
Re: [FTE 80-96 - Another pinging problem]
RE: FTE 80-96 - Cold starting problem
FTE 80-96 - Better gearing for the Mazda tranny.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunking transfer case...1356E
FTE 80-96 - Re: Power steering pump Seal Kit
Re: FTE 80-96 - Better gearing for the Mazda tranny.
FTE 80-96 - Distributor
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Power steering pump Seal Kit
Re: FTE 80-96 - Another pinging problem

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 03:22:31 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New Thread--On-line Maps

Blake,

Would I lie to ya???? Well, maybe if you drove a C***Y.

Ken

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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 19:07:53 -0500
From: hirisrider
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re: cruise

Thanks to all who responded and tried to help with my cruise control.I
checked all my vacuum hoses .The truck runs great so I don't think it's a
hose.My air bag light doesn't flash so I don't think the clock spring is
the problem.I checked the fuse blocks in the cab and under the hood.
I'm going to check the switches and look underneath for anything that
might look wrong.I'll post if anything changes.
Thanks again Dan hirisrider

mindspring.com
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 08:08:51 -0500
From: Paul M Radecki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: F-150 2" receiver up front?

>> I was thinking of
>>putting a 2" receiver on the front. I've heard of people doing it with
the
>>"bigger" Fords, but was curious if it would cause a problem with an
F-150.
>>Since I don't plan on putting much weight on it, I don't think there
should
>>be any issues, but I've been wrong too many times before to assume so
much.

This is a good idea. Rock crawler guys often do this so that they can
easily mount their winch at either end of the truck. You might check out
some 4X4 catalogs; they probably have kits or replacement bumpers with
the receiver already mounted.

lordjanusz

juno.com
'94 F150 300ci
'73 F100 FE in pieces
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 05:33:23 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: cruise

Dan,

Have you checked your fusible links? Also, I had an aftermarket cruise on a
79 F-150 refuse to work no matter what I did. Everything worked fine. I
finally found just a tad of corrosion on one of the wires that plugged into
the box between the 2 speedo cables (the plug was the one that had the wires
that went to the control module on the dash).

One of my best biker buds is an electronics whiz. He gave me some special
conductive grease to put on plugs, wire ends, terminals, battery cables,
etc. It keeps the corrosion-causing moisture out and also increases the
electrical conductivity of the connections. It seems to be the same stuff
that comes with replacement fender-mount ignition modules, and really cuts
down on bad connections. I even use it on my trailer plugs (equipped with
covers to prevent crud from entering and sticking to the grease when not in
use).

Ken

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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 08:31:09 -0600
From: "PHILLIP P. GUIDRY"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '84 F-150 Carb Problem

>- -----Original Message-----
>From: Troy
>To: 80-96-list

ford-trucks.com
>Date: Saturday, November 13, 1999 8:33 PM
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - '84 F-150 Carb problems.

>I have an '84 F-150 double barrel carb perched on top of a wonderful
>302 that seems to need an attitude adjustment.

Hey Troy, before you go any further,please change the fuel filter at the
carb & any other fuel filter a previous owner or you may have installed
after the fuel tank(s).The carb filter is so small internally,it gets
partially clogged pretty rapidly,causing driveability problems.Also,I
recommend you change the fuel pump!These pumps can get in a state of hit
& miss,driving you nuts.
Phillip
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 07:01:12 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: F-150 2" receiver up front?

How I mounted a receiver on the front of an 83 Bronco:

1) Unbolt the sway bar from the frame.

2) Cut 2 pieces (1 for each side) of 3/8 mild steel plate to mount between
the sway bar and the frame. All together there are 4-5 holes already in the
fram for Grade 5 bolts. There ia a step in the frame that needs to be
filled. (Lowering the mounts 1/2 inch has no effect on function of the sway
bar.)

3) Cut 2 more pieces that will have 2.5 inch square holes, the bottom of
which will be 1/2 inch lower than the bottom of the bumper.

4) Cut 6 right triangles to serve as braces between the components above.

5) Bolt the first pieces to the frame, slide the second pieces over a piece
of 2.5 inch outside, 2 inch inside square tubing.
Jack/clamp/block/coathanger everything in place. Eyeball for straightness.
Tack weld, being carefull not to set your truck on fire.

6) Remove the assembly from the truck and weld it solid. Weld in the braces.
Cut a notch for the sway bar.

7) Cut another piece of tubing about a foot long. Drill a 17/32 hole for the
hitch pin. Weld it to the first piece for a reciever. Weld a 1/2 inch piece
of 2.5 inch ID tubing on the end of the reciever tube to prevent splitting.

8) Cut an isoceles triangle of 3/8 plate to weld atop the reciever and
across the first square tube.

9) Bolt the sucker up.

My (homebuilt) boat is very similar to one
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.devlinboat.com/cz305.jpg , except mine runs on twin well-mounted
extra long shaft 4-stroke outboards instead of diesels and is all white and
varnish above the waterline. With her trailer she weighs almost 8000 pounds.
I always launch and recover off the front reciever, with an 83 Bronco 302,
SROD, 3.55 twin grips front and rear, Gabriel Red Riders, and P295/50R15s on
15X10 wheels. Since building this boat I've towed her from NW Tennessee to
Miami, Florida (twice), Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, and Gulfport,
Mississippi. Ya just don't get in a hurry. (Monteagle is 25 MPH in second
gear. Launch ramps are 4-low.)

Ken

P.S. I never hook to a trailer this size without an equalizer hitch and
double friction sway controls from Reese.

P.P.S. The boat is for sale. She is 4 years old and in perfect condition.
She has proven herself an able, easy to handle coastal, reservoir, and river
cruiser, as well as a comfortable island hopper (with weather
consideration). Her framing is clear fir, planking is marine okume, and all
joints were epoxy coated before assembly. Her outside is totally epoxy and
cloth encapsulated and her inside is completely epoxy coated. RAKA epoxy and
structural fabrics were used throughout. All exterior fittings are bronze or
stainless. All interior fittings are brass. She required 3400 hours to build
over 5 years, and was built and has always been stored inside. She has
accumulated 410 actual running hours. Survey value is $190 000. Priced at
$150 000 firm. I intended to live aboard (she is equipped for live aboard)
once my children left home, but now I have my eye on something bigger
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.devlinboat.com/dccz43.htm . Same basic philosophy, just more of
her. Still trailerable, but with an F-700, lowboy, and wide-load permit.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 07:00:49 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: F-150 2" receiver up front?

How I mounted a receiver on the front of an 83 Bronco:

1) Unbolt the sway bar from the frame.

2) Cut 2 pieces (1 for each side) of 3/8 mild steel plate to mount between
the sway bar and the frame. All together there are 4-5 holes already in the
fram for Grade 5 bolts. There ia a step in the frame that needs to be
filled. (Lowering the mounts 1/2 inch has no effect on function of the sway
bar.)

3) Cut 2 more pieces that will have 2.5 inch square holes, the bottom of
which will be 1/2 inch lower than the bottom of the bumper.

4) Cut 6 right triangles to serve as braces between the components above.

5) Bolt the first pieces to the frame, slide the second pieces over a piece
of 2.5 inch outside, 2 inch inside square tubing.
Jack/clamp/block/coathanger everything in place. Eyeball for straightness.
Tack weld, being carefull not to set your truck on fire.

6) Remove the assembly from the truck and weld it solid. Weld in the braces.
Cut a notch for the sway bar.

7) Cut another piece of tubing about a foot long. Drill a 17/32 hole for the
hitch pin. Weld it to the first piece for a reciever. Weld a 1/2 inch piece
of 2.5 inch ID tubing on the end of the reciever tube to prevent splitting.

8) Cut an isoceles triangle of 3/8 plate to weld atop the reciever and
across the first square tube.

9) Bolt the sucker up.

My (homebuilt) boat is very similar to one
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.devlinboat.com/cz305.jpg , except mine runs on twin well-mounted
extra long shaft 4-stroke outboards instead of diesels and is all white and
varnish above the waterline. With her trailer she weighs almost 8000 pounds.
I always launch and recover off the front reciever, with an 83 Bronco 302,
SROD, 3.55 twin grips front and rear, Gabriel Red Riders, and P295/50R15s on
15X10 wheels. Since building this boat I've towed her from NW Tennessee to
Miami, Florida (twice), Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, and Gulfport,
Mississippi. Ya just don't get in a hurry. (Monteagle is 25 MPH in second
gear. Launch ramps are 4-low.)

Ken

P.S. I never hook to a trailer this size without an equalizer hitch and
double friction sway controls from Reese.

P.P.S. The boat is for sale. She is 4 years old and in perfect condition.
She has proven herself an able, easy to handle coastal, reservoir, and river
cruiser, as well as a comfortable island hopper (with weather
consideration). Her framing is clear fir, planking is marine okume, and all
joints were epoxy coated before assembly. Her outside is totally epoxy and
cloth encapsulated and her inside is completely epoxy coated. RAKA epoxy and
structural fabrics were used throughout. All exterior fittings are bronze or
stainless. All interior fittings are brass. She required 3400 hours to build
over 5 years, and was built and has always been stored inside. She has
accumulated 410 actual running hours. Survey value is $190 000. Priced at
$150 000 firm. I intended to live aboard (she is equipped for live aboard)
once my children left home, but now I have my eye on something bigger
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.devlinboat.com/dccz43.htm . Same basic philosophy, just more of
her. Still trailerable, but with an F-700, lowboy, and wide-load permit.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 10:25:47 EST
From: RiTruckGuy

aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Another pinging problem

Hi all,

I've got an aggravating pinging problem with my '82 F100 300 I6 thats
absolutely driving me nuts. The engine begins to ping when under load when
the air temperature is 50 degrees F. The warmer the air gets, the worse the
pinging.

Right now I've got a 195 degree thermostat installed. The pinging starts
when the engine temperature gauge reads at the "m" in normal. I had tried a
180 degree unit, and the engine rarely got into the normal range, but would
on occasion reach temperatures near the "m" and would ping at that point.
The engine runs considerably better with the 195. The water pump is brand
new.

The plugs, wires, cap, are all brand new. The vacuum advance appears to be
working normally. Timing is set dead on 6 BTDC. I've tried 87, 89, and 92
octane fuel. No difference in the pinging problem. All the plugs and the
intake/exhaust manifolds are torqued to specs. The carb has been rebuilt.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Bill
97 F150 SC 4x4 Off Road 4.6L
82 F100 Flareside 4.9L
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 10:45:03 -0500
From: slikness

mindspring.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Another pinging problem

It looks to me like your engine is running hot. You may want to put in a regular gauge that reads temps. Those Ford 300s, at least in the early '80s, liked running cool and mine never got much higher than the 'n' in normal.

- -check your radiator, maybe clean it, check to make sure the fins are straight

- -if you have a clutch fan, check to make sure that it is working properly

- -Does the fan shroud cover the radiator and reach back to enclose your fan?

- -When was the last time you had your radiator and engine flushed?

Note: Even my new 351W starts to ping if the temp gets midway up the gauge.

Bill wrote:
> Hi all,
I've got an aggravating pinging problem with my '82 F100 300 I6 thats
absolutely driving me nuts. The engine begins to ping when under load when the air temperature is 50 degrees F. The warmer the air gets, the worse the pinging.

Right now I've got a 195 degree thermostat installed. The pinging starts when the engine temperature gauge reads at the "m" in normal. I had tried a 180 degree unit, and the engine rarely got into the normal range, but would on occasion reach temperatures near the "m" and would ping at that point. The engine runs considerably better with the 195. The water pump is brand new.

The plugs, wires, cap, are all brand new. The vacuum advance appears to be working normally. Timing is set dead on 6 BTDC. I've tried 87, 89, and 92 octane fuel. No difference in the pinging problem. All the plugs and the intake/exhaust manifolds are torqued to specs. The carb has been rebuilt.

Any thoughts?

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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 11:44:57 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas tanks

>Hi Guy!
>
>I"ve got a 91 F150 and just replaced one here in Canada (East Coast) and it
>was $125.00 CDN. So that appears to be in line. Apparently there may be some
>advantages to having the original coated with some super dooper stuff. I've
>heard it amy be a little cheaper.
>

Actually it is a little more, but probably worth it in the long run. They
coat the inside and outside and it can never rust out again. I had the oil
pan done this way on my 77 Bronco 302 because the pan rusted out and they
are almost impossible to find.

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."

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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 11:48:17 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: F-150 2" receiver up front?

>This is a good idea. Rock crawler guys often do this so that they can
>easily mount their winch at either end of the truck. You might check out
>some 4X4 catalogs; they probably have kits or replacement bumpers with
>the receiver already mounted.
>

I did this same thing on my 56 Willys back in the 70s. Only I just mounted
a ball hitch on the front and back and used a trailer tongue ball socket
mounted on my winch. Worked well.

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."

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Date: 15 Nov 99 11:37:32 PST
From: William Berninghausen
Subject: Re: [FTE 80-96 - Another pinging problem]

aggravating pinging problem with my '82 F100 300 I6 =

___________________________________________

been there, did all that, finally solved it by replacing the EGR valve.

bad gas is also a real contributor, especially the crap that ARCO peddles=
;
best around here is Conoco from a Flying J truck stop, followed by Texaco=
and
Chevron

can't get a consistent temp reading from the stock gauge--next stop is an=

aftermarket temp gauge--195 is the designated tstat, stay with it

my 82 F100 300 I6 responds best and pings not at all with good gas, even =
now
that oxygenated fuel is all we can get

Bill in Portland

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Date: 15 Nov 99 11:39:22 PST
From: William Berninghausen
Subject: Re: [FTE 80-96 - Another pinging problem]

RiTruckGuy

aol.com wrote:
> Hi all,
> =

> I've got an aggravating pinging problem with my '82 F100 300 I6 thats =

> absolutely driving me nuts. The engine begins to ping when under load =
when

> the air temperature is 50 degrees F. The warmer the air gets, the wors=
e the

> pinging.
> =

> Right now I've got a 195 degree thermostat installed. The pinging star=
ts =

> when the engine temperature gauge reads at the "m" in normal. I had tr=
ied a

> 180 degree unit, and the engine rarely got into the normal range, but w=
ould

> on occasion reach temperatures near the "m" and would ping at that poin=
t. =

> The engine runs considerably better with the 195. The water pump is br=
and =

> new. =

> =

> The plugs, wires, cap, are all brand new. The vacuum advance appears t=
o be

> working normally. Timing is set dead on 6 BTDC. I've tried 87, 89, an=
d 92

> octane fuel. No difference in the pinging problem. All the plugs and =
the =

> intake/exhaust manifolds are torqued to specs. The carb has been rebui=
lt.
> =

> Any thoughts?
> =

> Thanks,
> Bill
> 97 F150 SC 4x4 Off Road 4.6L
> 82 F100 Flareside 4.9L
> =3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq=
=2Ehtml

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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 14:25:35 -0600
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Cold starting problem

>>>>I just aquired a '94 F150 to take a little of the load off my old '84.
When
I try to start it when cold, it usually takes a couple of trys to get it
started. She runs fine after that. I've replaced the plugs (with NGK's),
the distributor cap, and rotor. Even ran a tank of injector cleaner through
it. Didn't seem to help. I'm a rookie at diagnosing fuel injection
problems, but is it possible the idle bypass valve is sticking or gummed up?
Any of you FI vets have any ideas? BTW, it's the I6 300.>>>>>

Please give alittle more detail on what it does (or does not do). Starts
and stalls? Won't fire? Long cranking? Does it fast idle correctly? Idle
OK cold? Run smooth cold? Not knowing much, the idle bypass valve is a
good place to start; commonly gums up and is easy to clean.

David Anderson

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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 14:42:50 -0700
From: Fred Moreno
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Better gearing for the Mazda tranny.

Blake wrote;

I have been trying to determine this for almost a year now. I think
the ZFs
may have different gear ratios available. What the Mazda really
really
needs is a lower first and reverse gear. Unless you have low range
available, they are darned near impossible to back a trailer. First
is also
too high to plow snow and difficult to start on hills or manuever
slowly
over ruts and rough ground, pulling a hay wagon, etc.

Yeah I will toast to that!!! The Mazda tranny could really use a lower 1st
AND reverse, I mean come on, some people actually use their trucks for real
work, not just to look good while driving.
I probably shorten the life of my clutch by a thousand miles when trying to
back a flatbed trailer with 5 full rows of alfalfa because I did not think
"Hey dummy use your transfer case, that'll get rid of the smelly/smokin
clutch!".
Key word was "Think".
Once in low gear, piece of cake. Same scenario while loading the flatbed,
had the wife driving the truck through the field while I'm tossin bales on
the trailer, she's off and on the clutch the whole time. Now one of her legs
is a lot stronger than the other!!!! And yes, that's the one she kicks with.
I have the Ford service manual at home, and I'll try and remember to look
it up the gearing. Between that and studying for an Quantum Mechanics test
for this week, working full time, I hope it make sense.

Phred
1995 Y2K compatible 4X4, 5.0L, 5-speed leaking tranny, Warn Manual Hubs,
with propane and propane accessories.

"Incoming fire always has the right of way."

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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:06:27 EST
From: ACMERCG

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Clunking transfer case...1356E

In a message dated 11/14/1999 7:47:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ACMERCG

aol.com writes:

T-case is clunking pretty loudly when put into 4Lo. This is without the
hubs
locked and the trans in Neutral. It actually bangs loud enough and hard
enough for the truck to shake a little. The trans has 70K on it and the
case
has 108k, but is only used in the winter, and even then, the winters here
aren't nearly what they used to be. I also use it off road about 6 times a
year. Anyone have a similar problem? Ever hear of such a problem? The
fluid only has about 4k on it and it's full. Tomorrow I'm gonna grab one of
my neighbors and watch what happens when it's put into gear.

Thanks guys...

Joe
Lost in jersey
92F150 302 AOD 1356E D44 8.8 33" BFG M/T >>
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 19:17:59 -0500
From: "Mark Salvetti"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Power steering pump Seal Kit

>It looks like I need to replace the seals on my power steering pump.
>Has anyone done this, and if so what tools are required ? is this a
>difficult job ?

Hi Ed. I just did this on my 1986 a couple of months ago. I ended up going
through the top of the PS box, rather than from below as Jim suggested. I'm
not saying my way is necessarily better; either way will do the job.

Anyway, if you don't want to drill into the metal pressure seal from below,
you can unbolt the top cover and lift out the pitman arm shaft. Be prepared
for a gush of PS fluid. Now you can push the seals out from above, or get a
better grip from below. But as Jim mentioned, you have to be careful you
don't scratch the bore.

Special tools include a Pitman arm puller and a tie rod puller (you have to
use these first). Both can be rented at AutoZone, but they are lousy
quality. The first Pitman puller they lent me was already broken in the
box. Make sure you check it before you leave the store. You'll also need a
good pair of circlip pliers, as there is a large one just inside the bore
holding in the seals. You'll have to get that from underneath.

I think that's about it. Oh, if you go from above, you'll need the seal kit
that includes a new o-ring for the top cover. There will be lots of parts
left over, as you won't be doing all the seals, and I think it's kind of a
generic kit. Make sure you keep track of what comes out of your steering
box, like extra spacers. Kit will cost about $20, versus maybe $150 for a
rebuilt steering box.

Hope this helps,

Mark Salvetti
1986 F150 5L

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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 16:31:18 -0800
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Better gearing for the Mazda tranny.

>>Blake wrote;
>>
>>I have been trying to determine this for almost a year now. I think the ZFs
>>may have different gear ratios available. What the Mazda really really
>>needs is a lower first and reverse gear. Unless you have low range
>>available, they are darned near impossible to back a trailer. First is also
>>too high to plow snow and difficult to start on hills or manuever slowly
>>over ruts and rough ground, pulling a hay wagon, etc.
>
>Yeah I will toast to that!!! The Mazda tranny could really use a lower 1st
>AND reverse, I mean come on, some people actually use their trucks for real
>work, not just to look good while driving.
> I probably shorten the life of my clutch by a thousand miles when trying to
>back a flatbed trailer with 5 full rows of alfalfa because I did not think
>"Hey dummy use your transfer case, that'll get rid of the smelly/smokin
>clutch!".
> Key word was "Think".
> Once in low gear, piece of cake. Same scenario while loading the flatbed,
>had the wife driving the truck through the field while I'm tossin bales on
>the trailer, she's off and on the clutch the whole time. Now one of her legs
>is a lot stronger than the other!!!! And yes, that's the one she kicks with.
> I have the Ford service manual at home, and I'll try and remember to look
>it up the gearing. Between that and studying for an Quantum Mechanics test
>for this week, working full time, I hope it make sense.
>
>Phred
>1995 Y2K compatible 4X4, 5.0L, 5-speed leaking tranny, Warn Manual Hubs,
>with propane and propane accessories.
>
>"Incoming fire always has the right of way."

Yup, I third the motion. The gearing on the Mazda 5spd just doesn't cut it.

Here are some numbers that I've collected for '88:

Manufacturer Description Model Gear Ratios (R : 1,2,3,4,5,...)
Mazda Manual 5spd OD M5OD-R2 3.41 : 3.90 2.25 1.45 1.00 0.80
ZF Manual 5spd OD ZFS5-42 5.23 : 5.72 2.94 1.61 1.00 0.76
Borg-Warner Manual 4spd T-18 7.44 : 6.32 3.09 1.68 1.00
Borg-Warner Manual 4spd T-19 ? : 5.11 3.03 1.79 1.00
Ford Auto 3spd C6 ? : 2.46 1.46 1.00
Ford Auto 4spd OD AOD ? : 2.40 1.47 1.00 0.67

I've heard that the ZF has different gearing for different years but don't
have the details.

Would be nice if someone offered a kit to regear the M5OD along the lines
of the T-18. Don't know if the aluminum case could handle it though.

Mark

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 19:41:00 -0600
From: "Allen Collins"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Distributor

Hello to the list,
I have a 1986 F-150, 302 cid, two barrel carb, computer controlled
distributor. The engine is an older engine and not fuel injected like the
tag states. The computer is also not working and brings on the problem of
the distributor not advancing. Having a limited budget can I go to a
wrecking yard and purchase an older electronic distributor and install it?
What do I need to make this work assuming I can make it work? What wiring
would I need? Just a hot from the wiring harness going into the distributor
now? Anything I am overlooking?

Thank for the help

Allen
Lubbock Texas

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 23:27:46 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Power steering pump Seal Kit

Ed-
Mark's reply is how to replace the seal on the power steering unit (the
gearbox) not the pump. Mine was how to do the pump seal. Choose the reply
to match what it is you need to fix.
Jim

At 19:17 15/11/99 -0500, Mark wrote:
>>It looks like I need to replace the seals on my power steering pump.
>>Has anyone done this, and if so what tools are required ? is this a
>>difficult job ?
>
>Hi Ed. I just did this on my 1986 a couple of months ago. I ended up going
>through the top of the PS box, rather than from below as Jim suggested. I'm
>not saying my way is necessarily better; either way will do the job.
>

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 23:42:58 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Another pinging problem

At 10:25 15/11/99 EST, Bill wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I've got an aggravating pinging problem with my '82 F100 300 I6 thats
>absolutely driving me nuts. The engine begins to ping when under load when
>the air temperature is 50 degrees F. The warmer the air gets, the worse the
>pinging.

Bill-
Did this problem start all of a sudden or gradually? How long has it been
doing it? Did you replace the plug wires because of this problem, or prior
to noticing it? Any chance you have two wires close enough to be
cross-firing? Are you sure you do not have two of the ignition wires
crossed? I have done this before, and it will ping like mad.

Are you sure it is pinging? I mean REALLY sure? I ask this because I have....

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