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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #318
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80-96-list-digest Thursday, November 11 1999 Volume 03 : Number 318



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - TPS '85 F-150 I6-300
Re: FTE 80-96 - Temp Gauge Problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Zoops Brackets
FTE 80-96 - R 134a Refrigerant
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radar Detectors
Re: FTE 80-96 - re:Radiator and converter
Re: FTE 80-96 - Front bumper replacement
Re: FTE 80-96 - Loose Antenna
FTE 80-96 - RE: Temp Gauge Problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Loose Antenna
Re: FTE 80-96 - Damper removal
FTE 80-96 - 80-96 Ford Truck; brake weirdness
FTE 80-96 - Re: Brake Wierdness
FTE 80-96 - Re: tickets & points...& ford
FTE 80-96 - Pics of Lowered Trucks
Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake weirdness
Re: FTE 80-96 - R 134a Refrigerant
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Temp Gauge Problem
FTE 80-96 - Pulling balancer.
FTE 80-96 - antenna
FTE 80-96 - Catalytic converter?
FTE 80-96 - RE: Temp Gauge Problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Pulling balancer.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Front bumper replacement
RE: FTE 80-96 - Radar Detectors
Re: FTE 80-96 - Pulling balancer.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Catalytic converter?
Re: FTE 80-96 - tyre size, tickets & points...& ford
FTE 80-96 - Re:help code id
FTE 80-96 - Re: Antenna
Re: FTE 80-96 - tyre size, tickets & points...& ford
RE: FTE 80-96 - R-34 refrigerant
RE: FTE 80-96 - TPS '85 F-150
Re: FTE 80-96 - R-34 refrigerant
Re: FTE 80-96 - Pics of Lowered Trucks
[none]
FTE 80-96 - 96 F250 drive train noise
RE: FTE 80-96 - R-34 refrigerant
FTE 80-96 - Loose Antenna
FTE 80-96 - Re: your mail
Re: FTE 80-96 - TPS '85 F-150

=======================================================================

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 06:23:43 -0500
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - TPS '85 F-150 I6-300

Please define "BAD". In other words, how does a bad, or missing, TPS
manifest itself in terms of performance.

As I said I have replaced the carb and I rebuilt the previous carb. The
throttle shaft extends all the way through the carb and the TPS is mounted
on a bracket in the front. There is a piece of plastic that actually makes
the connection between the throttle shaft and the TPS. That connection piece
was missing on the old carb and the truck ran fine. I didn't want to change
too many things at once so I left it off of the new carb also. I just never
bothered to mess with it again because the truck runs fine.

A friend borrowed my truck a week ago and when he returned it he said, and I
quote, "man that truck runs fine, can you get my Buick to run like that?".
So it's not just my opinion that the truck runs fine but I wonder what life
would be like with the TPS hooked up?

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA

- -----Original Message-----
From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:25 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - TPS '85 F-150 I6-300


> mpmccarthy worldnet.att.net writes:

>by the throttle shaft. Maybe the link was not obvious to you, but it would
>run BAD otherwise.
>Alex
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 06:30:43 -0500
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Temp Gauge Problem

Jim,

I am not surprised that the gauge isn't linear. Every time I make an
assumption it is wrong. You would think I would learn but as they say, "Too
soon old, too late smart". Thanks for the input.

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Cannon
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 12:16 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Temp Gauge Problem


>At 06:32 09/11/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>I know it is in full overheat because extremely hot water is pouring out
>>everywhere. Also, I just put a brand new 195 degree thermostat in my truck
>>and the temp gauge reads just below the "N" in Normal on the gauge or
about
>>1.3 scale. If the gauge reading is linear (a big assumption on my part)
then
>>the half scale reading would be about 290 degrees. BTW I have an old
>>radiator so it may overheat easier than some others. Got to change that
>>thing soon.
>>
>>Michael McCarthy
>>Export, PA
>
>Michael-
>It is not linear.
>
>Jim Cannon
>Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
>'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
>'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 08:09:11 -0500
From: slikness mindspring.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Zoops Brackets

>
So how do we contact this Zoops Company ???

www.zoops.com
900-G East John St.
Banning, CA 92220
909/922-2396

I talk to Frank Zupin, Jr. (one of 4 owners)

Slik
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 08:21:30 -0500
From: slikness mindspring.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - R 134a Refrigerant

Excerpts from Vintage Air's catalog:

"...the HFC-134a systems are now fully functional and about as trouble-free as they can get."

"Based on the excellent performance, wide availability and costs of refrigerant and service, and the vanishing CFC-12 supply, you will almost certainly opt for the HFC-134a system."

"The refrigerant: HFC-134a is not compatible with the old mineral oil lubricants. You must use a PAG (Poly Alkaline Glycol) oil instead. HFC-134a also has a different pressure/temperature curve so that within the high pressure side of the system there will be more pressure at a given temperature. To keep pressures down to acceptable levels you must get rid of more heat. In the end this means larger and more efficient condensers."

"The drier desiccant (water remover) for HFC-134a is different than that used in CFC-12 systems. It must be replaced."

"Most evaporators will work fine with HFC-134a after being fitted with an axpansion valve calibrated for the new refrigerant. They work well because, regardless of claims to the contrary, HFC-134a is a more efficient refrigerant, heat transfer is better and exiting air temperature from the HFC-134a systems is often colder than CFC-12 systems."

Slik

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 08:21:53 -0500
From: flagship worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radar Detectors

Paul,

I also have a Valentine One. No question it is the best in every
independent test they conduct. However, if cost is a consideration,
(when is it not?) I recommend you buy an old Passport Radar detector.
They do not pick up Laser or photo radar (KA0 but they beat all the
newest detectors in quality of detection and presentation of info...
Check ebay... They routinely sell for 25.00 to 50.00.. I've got one
Valentine w/Laser and three Passports for the other vehicles.. Good
luck.



Shawn & Jennifer Clark wrote:
>
> Paul, to suit your needs there is really only one: Valentine One. Check
> www.caranddriver.com Valentines are not cheap, but they are worth the
>
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 08:22:50 EST
From: AeroPics aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re:Radiator and converter

In a message dated 11/9/99 7:12:33 AM, rdtect snet.net writes:

>Any idea how much a new radiator will run for our trucks? Mine is a 96
>f105 4x4, auto,ac.


Mine cost about $200 locally. Plastic end tanks were leaking at 130,000
miles.
92 F250 4X2 auto AC.

Ron
Naples, FL
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 08:29:04 -0500
From: slikness mindspring.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Front bumper replacement

Try http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.autostyles.com/styles/chromebumpers.htm. They have Westin chrome bumpers. Also:

The Bumper Place, Inc.
606 W. Cook St.
Wendell, NC 27591
800/438-1092

And I believe FEY bumpers are available from J.C. Whitney.

Slik

> Anyone have a recommended source for a front bumper replacement for a96 F-150?
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 08:35:30 -0500
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Loose Antenna

There is a rectangular trim piece at the bottom of the antenna, pop it off,
there are 4 screws exposed. Try tightening the screws. It could be that
the threads have been wrecked and you'll need larger screws.

Matt


From: Chris McKinnon

> Here is a new one to baffle and confuse the collective wisdom of the list.
> The antenna on my '84 F-150 has gotten loose somehow. I can't seem to
figure
> out how the antenna is attached to the fender. Any insights?
> Chris
>
> '84 F150
> 351W
> NP 435
> 281K Km


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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 07:41:30 -0600
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Temp Gauge Problem

> For all those not believing these funky ford temperature gauges, I suggest
> measuring the DC voltage at the ECT sender. Some of the books give a nice
> table showing coolant temp as a function of voltage. I can copy that
> table to this list if anyone wants it.
> David Anderson
>
>Dave,
>Which book is that, and does it graph the response of any of the other
>sensors?
>Smeck

The following table is from Motorbooks Series by Benson; "How to Tune and
Modify Ford Fuel Injection". This data is for the Engine Coolant
Temperature (ECT) sensor. I found the voltage readings quite accurate
looking at two points; starting cold at about 60 degrees and when 195 deg
thermostat opened (top hose getting warm). Now I know what "normal" really
is on my gauge. Smeck, the book also has data on the air intake temp sensor
(IAT) (almost the same values as for the ECT) and also some less useful data
on the EGR feedback sensor as a function of vacuum. One performance trick
he mentions us using a 5000 ohm (I believe fixed) ECT resistor, thereby
tricking the computer into thinking the engine is a little cool and getting
a little richer mixture and a little more advance. Plenty of downside to
this and not meant for a daily driver.

Temp Volts Resistance
248 0.27 1180
230 0.35 1550
212 0.46 2070
194 0.60 2800
176 0.78 3840
158 1.02 5370
140 1.33 7700
122 1.70 10970
104 2.13 16150
86 2.60 24270
68 3.07 37300
50 3.51 58750

David Anderson


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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 08:46:00 EST
From: MRStace84 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Loose Antenna

You should be able to pop loose the chrome rectangular cover at the base of
the antenna. Then that should reveal 3 or 4 sheet metal screws holding it to
the fender.

Stacy
84 F150 4x4
98 Ranger XLT 4x4
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 06:06:46 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Damper removal

>
>I am in the process of rebuilding my 93 302, included in the rebuild I
>wanted to change the cam and timing chain. Well my question is, how are
>you supposed to remove the damper after you have removed the pulley from
>the crankshaft? It has a large nut and when turned it just turns over the
>crankshaft. Any help would be great.

Figure some way to CAREFULLY keep the flywheel (flexplate) from turning. I
actually have a tool that slips over the ring gear and holds the flywheel.
another option is a hammer-activated impact wrench. Mine came from Sears and
Roebuck, and has served admirably for 27 years, on everything from aluminum
case screws on motorcycles to axle nuts on Jeeps (which required a 5 pound
sledge to break lose).

Also, anyone have any
>recommendations on what duration cam I should look at, I'm thinking
>something mild?

It seems all the major cam companies (Crane, Iskenderian, etc.) grind cams
for various FI 302s intended for various uses. Most have websites with
e-mail addresses to service reps. Pay the extra money for a reputable name
and you won't be sorry.

Also, consider upgrading your exhaust while you are under the hood. Frankly,
exhaust work usually gives more bang for the buck than anything else, if
done properly.

Ken
>
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>
>

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 08:50:29 -0600
From: "PHILLIP P. GUIDRY"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 80-96 Ford Truck; brake weirdness

Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 01:49:11 -0500
From: "Phil Jern"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Brake weirdness


>This didn't correct the problem. Took it back, they confirmed that
>the problem still existed.

>Finally, after a couple of trips back and forth, the guy adjusts the
>REAR brakes.

>Problem Solved.

>but.... what I want to know,,, is WHY????

>Clearly, it seemed like the problem was in the right front. I'm just
>trying to figure out the mechanism that's at work here.

>Am I missing something obvious? BTW, the mechanic seemed as mystified
>as I was as to why that worked.

>Phil


Boy, you should've drove my 64 Falcon when one of the brakes were
slightly mis-adjusted.Even worse, all 4 wheels were drum brakes.I'm glad
your mechanic finally came to his senses and checked the rear and
adjusted it.But having to manually adjust the rear tells me you don't
use your parking brake,right? You see,setting the park brake will
position the auto adjuster on the star wheel for an attempt to adjust it
when you release the park brake.If you start using the park brake
regularly you won't have to worry about it any more.Another tip is when
you back up,rapidly apply the brakes to a complete stop,this will cause
an auto adjust also.Back brakes may only account for 30-40% of the
stopping power, but are sometimes the first to apply when the pedal is
pressed, depending on the system design.Finally, just as a precaution on
the front calipers,make sure you didn't install one or more of the
retaining pins upside down! They can go in backwards & will cause the
caliper to not float properly on the knuckle.In fact,even if this area
is dry & rusty,brake pull can be evident,so,push the pins out and lube
with brake caliper lube.
Phillip
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:49:55 EST
From: Awfanning aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Brake Wierdness


REAR brakes.

Problem Solved.

but.... what I want to know,,, is WHY???? >>

What pops to mind is "dual diagonal braking system", where the left ft and rt
ff brake would be in a separate hydraulic system from the other two. Just mu
$.02.

Alan Fanning
San Jose, CA
'91 Taurus SHO, '89 Sable wagon, '82 F-150

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 08:53:32 -0600
From: Andy Norris
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: tickets & points...& ford

At 08:36 PM 11/10/99 +1100, you wrote:
>Hi All,
> Alex (FULSZBRONC) indicated he
>was busted for speeding, and as long as he paid up and 'copped it
>sweet' the suffers NO points penalty? Is this true ?

I was curious about this point, too. Seems like insurance companies ALWAYS
find out. Sometimes it just takes a little time.

>Are fines and points transferable across state lines ?

You have to pay the fine not only in the state you got the ticket in, but
the COUNTY. That means if you are on vacation and you get a ticket, if you
want to contest it, you have to take another vacation... That, at least,
has been my (-sigh-) experience... And that was in my 66 'Stang years ago.
To make things worse, states are different, in many ways and to many
degrees. When I lived in North Carolina (very early 90's), the rule was if
you got a ticket for more than 10mph, your license was restricted. Maybe it
was 15mph. And living not too far from the Virginia border, it was habit to
see the "Welcome to Virginia" sign and reach up and pop the radar detector
off the windshield and sit it in the passenger seat. Keeping the
"foreigners" guessing as to your state's laws is one reason that
out-of-staters seem to get a lot of tickets.

>Andy Norris '89 F250 Computer programmer from the real land of Oz... the
>flatlands of Kansas.
>
>Andy, this is a point I will readily concede to you. I must admit I get
>a vision of an F100 roaring up the yellow brick road..... sort of like
>the Terminator teams up with the Tinman!!

That IS one interesting look at it.

The thing about this thread that intrigued me the most is that there are
folks out there that can get their trucks to EXCEED the speed limit in the
first place! ;^) When I had a car that would speed I had a radar detector
(Uniden). It got stolen, then found. Went to court and got it back. Then it
got stolen again and I never saw it again.

Speeding Along at ~68mph and ~10mpg,
Andy

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:04:47 -0600
From: "Vic Erwin"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Pics of Lowered Trucks

Hey Guys-

I'm looking for pics of 90's F150s that have been lowered
various amounts. If you have a web site or digital pics,
could you forward them to me please.

vic webdigs.com

Thanks
-Vic

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 07:34:45 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake weirdness

Some lining materials go away as they get hot. Some lining materials develop
a higher coeffecient of friction as they get hot. I imagine your left year
went away for some reason (perhaps a burr in the linkages that only caught
at a certain point of adjustment). Still, both sides of the truck needed to
be stopped. Therefore the left front had to do the work of both left brakes.
If the front linings get grabbier with heat, then that the left front stops
better than the right front, with additional heat more stops) compounding
the problem. Both fronts should be the same temp, both rears the same temp,
but a front-to-rear difference is normal--70% of braking is done by the
front--even more in trucks.

To see which wheels are stopping, and which are not, find a smooth, level,
open patch of dirt and try stopping with various pedal pressures. Any
out-of-balance braking will show as lockup. Try the test with cold and hot
brakes--the results may differ. You can do this on pavement, but it is rough
on your tires.

Ken


>I thought I'd share this with the list because I'm a little puzzled.
>
>At 70,000 miles, I had the front disc pads replaced on my 96 F-150.
>(Preventative maintenance, they probably had another 10K on them).
>The rotors were smooth and in spec for runout, warpage, etc. Over the
>last 4 or 5K since then, the brakes developed a startling pull to the
>left when warm... the first 3 - 4 stops of the day were fine, but the
>warmer the brakes got, the harder the pull. Finally got so bad I was
>doing unintended lane changes :) Literally, a sudden stop felt like
>it was gonna pull the wheel out of your hand.
>
>Took the truck in, they drove it and confirmed the problem, and
>decided to change the right front brake hose. This sounded like a
>reasonable guess to me. (If the right front brake wasn't working it
>would pull left, correct?)
>By feel, the right front caliper was MUCH cooler than the left one.
>
>This didn't correct the problem. Took it back, they confirmed that
>the problem still existed.
>
>Finally, after a couple of trips back and forth, the guy adjusts the
>REAR brakes.
>
>Problem Solved.
>
>but.... what I want to know,,, is WHY????
>
>Clearly, it seemed like the problem was in the right front. I'm just
>trying to figure out the mechanism that's at work here.
>
>Am I missing something obvious? BTW, the mechanic seemed as mystified
>as I was as to why that worked.
>
>Phil
>
>
>
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 07:44:25 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - R 134a Refrigerant

Slik,

That is exactly what my little brother said, and he engineered HVACs for 20
years before becoming a house hubby. Actually, he designed the system my son
is installing on the Bronco (as an idnependent contractor), and included
provisions for R-134a compatibility. It's a small world.

Ken

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 10:28:55 -0600
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Temp Gauge Problem

Thanks Dave ;^) I'm gonna buy the book.
Smeck
- ----- Original Message -----
From: David Anderson (EUS)

> The following table is from Motorbooks Series by Benson; "How to Tune and
> Modify Ford Fuel Injection". This data is for the Engine Coolant
> Temperature (ECT) sensor
> Temp Volts Resistance
> 248 0.27 1180
> 230 0.35 1550
> 212 0.46 2070
> 194 0.60 2800
> 176 0.78 3840
> 158 1.02 5370
> 140 1.33 7700
> 122 1.70 10970
> 104 2.13 16150
> 86 2.60 24270
> 68 3.07 37300
> 50 3.51 58750



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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 08:35:20 -0800
From: "S.Harkema"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Pulling balancer.

>how are you supposed to remove the damper after you have removed the pulley >from

The best way is a Harmonic Balancer Puller.
Should be able to borrrow one from a auto parts store or rent
one at a rental store.Balancer will slide right off with a puller.
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 08:45:31 -0800
From: "S.Harkema"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - antenna

>The antenna on my '84 F-150 has gotten loose somehow. I can't seem to >figure
>out how the antenna is attached to the fender. Any insights?

At the base of the antenna is a cone shaped ptece with a flat spot on
each side.Loosen this with a wrench and slide it up the anteena.
You will then see 4 screws that need to be tightened.
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 08:03:59 -0500
From: Mark_Halpain ingerrand.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Catalytic converter?

Has anybody experienced a noise coming from their catalytic converter?
The noise sounds like loose metal banging around inside the converter.
This is not an old converter, less than two years. It was installed
new with the dual cat back and no muffler.

Mark Halpain


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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 12:06:38 -0600
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Temp Gauge Problem

Oops. I incorrectly stated the book title below. It should be Motorbooks,
Powertech Series by Ben Watson; "How to Tune and Modify Ford Fuel
Injection".
Sorry, DA


and Modify Ford Fuel Injection"....>>>

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 13:11:51 -0500
From: slikness mindspring.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Pulling balancer.

> >how are you supposed to remove the damper after you have removed the pulley >

Somehow you have to keep the engine from rotating, like putting the special wrench on the flywheel like someone else mentioned. If your oil pan is off, you could wedge a long, solid screw driver against the crank shaft to keep it from rotating (it actually showed a picture of this method in my Chilton's). Using an impact wrench is a great way to go, but you can make your standard socket wrench act somewhat like an impact wrench by putting an extension or cheater bar over your socket wrench and then rapping the bar sharply several times with a hammer in the direction you want the bolt to turn. This may give you enough leverage to break the bolt loose. Once the bolt is loose, then you need to get an harmonic balancer puller to complete the job.

Slik
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 13:21:09 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Front bumper replacement

I bought the diesel style bumper for my 1994, should be the same as yours,
from a place called Fenders and More in Norcross GA. I dont have the
telephone number handy but the cost was around $150 for the chrome one.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Atlanta GA
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 11:30:23 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Radar Detectors

My last word on radar detectors:

I own a nice one that works well. I believe it is everybody's right to use
one. Any broadcast signal that passes through your body must be allowed to
be freely monitored regardless of the source.

But, I don't use it anymore. You tend to rely on it too much and loose your
sense of awareness that is vital for avoiding speed traps of any kind. I
prefer to maintain the awareness and common sense approach to driving that
forces you to not only look out for speed traps but other drivers as well. I
don't feel that I am a better driver than I actually am I just have gained
the experience to know a bad situation when I see it and how other people
react to each other. It seems pretty obvious when there is a speed trap
ahead when everyone half a mile away are stepping on their brakes, moving to
the right, and congestion is growing.

To totally rely on a radar detector is dangerous. And when it does fail you,
like on a lonely highway when you are the only target for 30 miles, the
police will always look to see if you have one or the cigarette lighter is
pulled out. If you do he will not give you any slack at all. Like I said
before, police are humans just like us, good and bad, they have bad days and
see a lot of people who straight face lie to them all day. You would be
surprised the response you will get from them if you admit your guilt, be
polite, and apologize for the violation. Be very frank and tell them you was
speeding because you felt it was safe and you didn't think there were any
police watching. 7 out of 10 times they will chuckle and give you a warning.
The ones that don't are just having a bad day, most likely because of some
other jerk who was too stupid to know when to keep his mouth shut.

IMHO, it is an inexperienced driver that uses a radar detector.

Scott
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 10:30:10 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Pulling balancer.

After you get the bolt out. ;-)

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 10:34:21 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Catalytic converter?

Yes! My 79 F150 did this, at 650 miles. Some "pellets" fell out of the
"matrix" and were being blown around by the flow of exhaust. It sounded like
a mechanical popcorn machine at times, quiet at other times. Go figure. The
quoted words were used by the Ford service manager. The convertr was
replaced under warranty, because the truck had only 650 miles.

Ken

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 13:50:38 EST
From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - tyre size, tickets & points...& ford

Les,
Your questions are not dumb. Hope my answers aren't. The "Double
Jeopardy'' game they play on you kinda sucks, but I can see (w/o agreeing or
disagreeing) what they are going for...when it comes to holiday travel in the
US, accidents and fatalities increase dramatically. Most states play Double
Jeopardy in the construction-zones year around, but only double on fines, and
only for speeding.


paid up and 'copped it sweet' the suffers NO points penalty? Is this true ?
( a yes/no answer will do...)>>

**YES


using Alex's example, can you collect before it becomes a problem, - that is,
a forced 'holiday' from driving your beloved Ford Truck? ( just the facts :-)
will do )>>

**The sky's the limit!! As long as you're able to pay, you can play.

>

**Point accumulation is kept track of by my home state, and any ''points
violations'' I get in any of the 50 states goes on my record. When I collect
too many in a certain amount of time, my license gets suspended. I'm
not sure this applies to everyone, since I don't carry a generic operators
license, but rather a Commercial Drivers License (CDL). As such I'm held to
a little different standard. I can get more points before my ticket is
punched, but when it comes to blood-alcohol my license gets pulled for a mere
.04 as compared to- I think- the stardard of .1 (keeps me from driving, even
after only 1 Coors)

I have much taller than stock tires (tyres) on my Bronco, so I replaced the
speedo gear to compensate. The parts man at my friendly local Ford dealer
looked up the correct gear in the Master Parts Manual. Cost was
$6.09us...not too bad, and it took me almost 5 minutes to change. (Ya, I
know, I'm slow)

Alex



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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 13:05:22 -0600
From: "Waddell"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:help code id

On my ' 81,300 auto, the trans. code letter is "J", is this a C4 trans.? if
so, anything special to look for when changing trans. filter.

thanks Larry

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 16:01:08 -0500
From: "Kevin"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Antenna

On my '85, there is a rectangular chrome cover you pop off with a
screwdriver, and there are 4 screws underneath with hold the antenna on.

Kevin
'85 F150
I6 T-18
"stump puller"


>Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 22:31:57 -0800
>From: Chris McKinnon
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Loose Antenna
>
>Here is a new one to baffle and confuse the collective wisdom of the list.
>The antenna on my '84 F-150 has gotten loose somehow. I can't seem to
figure
>out how the antenna is attached to the fender. Any insights?
>Chris
>
>'84 F150
>351W
>NP 435
>281K Km
>



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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 09:37:43 +1100
From: les williams
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - tyre size, tickets & points...& ford

FULSZBRONC aol.com wrote:

> since I don't carry a generic operators
> license, but rather a Commercial Drivers License (CDL). As such I'm held to
> a little different standard. I can get more points before my ticket is
> punched, but when it comes to blood-alcohol my license gets pulled for a mere
> .04 as compared to- I think- the stardard of .1 (keeps me from driving, even
> after only 1 Coors)

Hi Alex,
Now I'm really starting to learn things, Yes we have different levels of
licence also, but for the sake of the list and brevity I was just sticking to
normal class 1. In Oz the level is 0.02 blood /alcohol level. If you are a
P-plater (provisional licence) it is the same as Commercial, Tourist Bus, Taxi
Drivers, etc it's, 0.00, zip, nought, zero, No excuse.
Almost 20 something years ago Oz started at .08 and over time it has been screwed
down to the current level, so your .04 would still be considered 'Pissed as a
Fart' in OZ. At a level of .02 it's simply not worth the trouble of even one
drink. I find it rather amusing especially since the rest of the world seems to
think OZ still runs on Beer......Hmmm, no guns, no beer, score 12 points and
loose your licence.....


And Andy Commented:
The thing about this thread that intrigued me the most is that there are
folks out there that can get their trucks to EXCEED the speed limit in the
first place! ;^)

It's probably why I like driving the F100 over the fairlane, or the GT, both
launch them selves and seem to run happily about 20-30 kph OVER the limit, the
F100 goes great to 100kph and due to a rather bodgey job being done on the 4 bbl
Propane mixer linkage ( it wasn't me, Phred, it's the way it came!!), it need's a
heavy foot (size 12 Blunstone boot) to pop the secondaries open. It may well be a
job that doesn't get done in a real hurry ....

Thank you Alex & Andy for your comments, I do appreciate it, and whulst
respecting our beloved co-ordinator's wishes on content, I am perhaps starting to
appreciate what the term 'revenue raising' really means, and who is being
screwed.

...anyway, I'm still having Fun.... in a Ford - and as sober as a Judge in big
boots !!

Regards

Les
Lost in the Land of OZ

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 17:17:23 -0600
From: "Moore, Jimmy"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - R-34 refrigerant

In my '81 F-150 I6, I have been informed that the factory Air conditioner I
have will not last with the R-34 stuff. It will ruin the seals, or
something. The guys at O'Reily's have told me that I need a new compressor,
which is about $200. That's why *I* haven't switched over, yet. I cannot
afford that, or the R-12 charges, which is in fact about the same total
price. The nice thing about R-34 is not only is it a lot cheaper, but you
can put it in yourself. No mechanic needed, and no special license to buy
it.

Jim
1981 FORD F-150, 300-6, automatic

- -----Original Message-----
From: ken haley [mailto:teacherdad hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 7:16 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - R-34 refrigerant


Okay, peeps, new thread:

My son just came in spitting nails. It seems the local auto AC repair
emporiums all charge $75 to hook up to their machines to check your AC's
freon charge. That's $75 just to hook it up!!!! On top of that, R-12 is $38
a pound. Gee willikers, what a rip-off. This is a new install aftermarket
system and will take 5-6 pounds.

The complete charge, using R-34 and compatible oil, will run about $65,
including flush, special gauges, and valves. This will save the kid about
$200.

Anyone every use R-34. Does it cool well? Any problems with it? How does
R-34 affect component life? It sure would be nice to be free of R-12.

Ken

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 17:32:58 -0600
From: "Moore, Jimmy"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - TPS '85 F-150

Not to sound too dumb here, but what is the TPS, and where is it located on
my 300 Six?

Jim

- -----Original Message-----
From: Andy Norris [mailto:anorris allenpress.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 9:26 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - TPS '85 F-150



Seemed to make a world of difference in my '89. Mine was acting up enough
that I was thinking I'd just had a lemon unloaded on me. When the new TPS
went in, though, the thing sounded great. I sure am glad I did buy this
truck. It cured my never-having-anything-to-spend-money-on problem.

Andy


At 05:16 PM 11/8/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Does the TPS matter all that much?
>
>Michael McCarthy
>Export, PA
>
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 20:26:34 -0500
From: "slik"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - R-34 refrigerant

> In my '81 F-150 I6, I have been informed that the factory Air conditioner
I
> have will not last with the R-34 stuff. It will ruin the seals, or
> something.

The guys at O'Reilly's are taking you for a ride. I even converted my son's
'77 Camaro to R-134a!

Your's should be no problem.

Slik

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 17:40:03 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Pics of Lowered Trucks

Vic,

I really don't know about lowered Ford trucks. I've never seen one. The Twin
I beam would be extremely expensive to modify. Unlike C***y's double A-arms,
the Ford Twin I Beam rods and mounts would probably be over-stressed with a
lowered spindle. Lowering the rear is a simple matter of re-welding spring
pearches on the bottom of the axle.

My son has a lowered Bronco converted to 2WD. It was expensive, and we built
it ourselves. We preserved the capability to restore the truck to its
original configuration, looking forward to the day my son's girlfriend can
jump up into a 4X4 again.

I'm considering converting my daily driver to 2WD and lowering it. (I
already have a Bronco with Dana 60 & 70, 9 inches of lift, and 44s.) I just
measured a late model Crown Vic front end, and I think adapting will not be
any more difficult than the drop tube axle we used on my son's truck. I need
to weigh my son's front end, and compare that to the CV's front weight, and
plan spring rates and sway bars accordingly. Also, there is the matter of
running a steering shaft that needs to be considered. So far, the CV
subframe looks to be the way to go on an 83 Bronco, but the hubs will have
to be redrilled to 5 x 5 and I haven't studied the brakes.

Good luck.

Ken


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Date: 10 Nov 99 19:31:30 -0800
From: CSMBurnett netzero.net
Subject: [none]

I have an 89 F350 with a 460 in it. It is a 4-wheel drive with crew cab. Is there any way to
improve gas mileage. I have been told to put headers on it and others have told me it won't
make a difference. Any advice. I am currently getting 7 mpg.

Chuck in Las Vegas


CSM Chuck Burnett
1/421st RTI NVARNG
Commandant

Download NeoPlanet at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.neoplanet.com

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 22:11:41 -0700
From: Curt Anderson
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 96 F250 drive train noise

I have a 96 F250 that has a drive train noise when the clutch is depressed
removing power to the rear wheels. This is most noticeable at under 5 MPH
when in any gear. It sounds like excessive backlash in the differential,
but sounds as if it is coming from the transmission or clutch area. The
truck drives great at higher speeds with no noise, unless it is bucked with
the gas pedal. The differential, u-joints and slip yoke are all within Ford
specs according to a Ford factory service manual. I have checked and
tightened the yoke on the transfer case. After spending hours trying to
track the noise down I assumed that the noise must be coming from the
transmission. The tranny was pulled and taken to a tranny shop for
repair. All that they found were some worn syncros which were replaced. I
also replaced the throw out bearing, but not the pilot bearing which felt
OK (kind of foolish I might add, but I did not want to get into the
clutch). The fluid in the transfer case and differential were clean (no
chunks or shavings). The tranny shop and I are at a loss as to where the
noise is coming from. I hope some one might have some suggestions. I have
heard that this tranny is typically somewhat noisy, but is this type of
noise common?

* 96 F250 4X4 long bed extended cab with 62k miles
* 460, S5-47 (ZF #1317) 5speed, Borg-Warner 44-07 heavy duty manual
shift transfer case, lock out hubs.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Curt Anderson
Cander qwestinternet.net

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 23:31:34 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - R-34 refrigerant

At 17:17 10/11/99 -0600, you wrote:
>In my '81 F-150 I6, I have been informed that the factory Air conditioner I
>have will not last with the R-34 stuff. It will ruin the seals, or
>something. The guys at O'Reily's have told me that I need a new compressor,
>which is about $200. That's why *I* haven't switched over, yet. I cannot
>afford that, or the R-12 charges, which is in fact about the same total
>price. The nice thing about R-34 is not only is it a lot cheaper, but you
>can put it in yourself. No mechanic needed, and no special license to buy
>it.

I have been looking into taking the EPA R-12 test. Check out:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.epatest.com/

Anyone ever do this test?


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 22:40:21 -0800
From: Chris McKinnon
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Loose Antenna

Thanks to all the knowhow of the list my antenna is repaired. The next step
is to remove the branch that knocked the antenna loose and also to replace
those screws with pop rivits or someting.
Wish me luck!
Chris

'84 F150
351W on propane
NP 435
NP 208
281K Km

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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 01:55:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Ken Woods
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: your mail

If it's any consolation, I've got a 89 250, with a 302, and I only get
10mpg.



On 10 Nov 1999 CSMBurnett netzero.net wrote:

> I have an 89 F350 with a 460 in it. It is a 4-wheel drive with crew cab. Is there any way to
> improve gas mileage. I have been told to put headers on it and others have told me it won't
> make a difference. Any advice. I am currently getting 7 mpg.
>
> Chuck in Las Vegas
>
>
> CSM Chuck Burnett
> 1/421st RTI NVARNG
> Commandant
>
> Download NeoPlanet at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.neoplanet.com
>
> __________________________________________
> NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
> Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
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>

- --
Ken Woods
kwoods kens.com

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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 05:58:24 -0500
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - TPS '85 F-150

Jimmy,

The TPS is the Throttle Position Sensor and it should be located somewhere....


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