From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #309
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80-96-list-digest Thursday, November 4 1999 Volume 03 : Number 309



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Does this bug you? Whats the solution?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help
Re: FTE 80-96 - ACCUSUMP
Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help
Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help
FTE 80-96 - Dating a 351W
FTE 80-96 - Filthy throttle body and intake man
Re: FTE 80-96 - Filthy throttle body and intake man
FTE 80-96 - Bug/rock deflectors
FTE 80-96 - Miss
FTE 80-96 - Radar
FTE 80-96 - Low Engine Temp with a '95 460
Re: FTE 80-96 - Bug/rock deflectors
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radar
Re: FTE 80-96 - Low Engine Temp with a '95 460
FTE 80-96 - no four wheel drive
Re: FTE 80-96 - no four wheel drive
RE: FTE 80-96 - thermostat
Re: FTE 80-96 - Low Engine Temp with a '95 460
Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radar
RE: FTE 80-96 - Radar
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys.
FTE 80-96 - Re: 91 f-150 fuel sys.
Re: FTE 80-96 - no four wheel drive
Re: FTE 80-96 - Sort of off the subject
Re: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Bug/rock deflectors
FTE 80-96 - Is my Ignition Switch dying? And Heater Core.
FTE 80-96 - (no subject)
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radar
Re: FTE 80-96 - (no subject)
Re: FTE 80-96 - no four wheel drive
Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help
Re: FTE 80-96 - (no subject)
Re: FTE 80-96 - (no subject)
Re: FTE 80-96 - (no subject)
Re: FTE 80-96 - Low Engine Temp with a '95 460
Re: FTE 80-96 - Is my Ignition Switch dying? And Heater Core.
Re: FTE 80-96 - (no subject)
Re: FTE 80-96 - (no subject)
Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing
RE: FTE 80-96 - thermostat

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 06:51:56 -0500
From: Martin Horne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Does this bug you? Whats the solution?

Just happened to notice a caddy from Rubbermaid while I was standing at the
checkout at Pep Boys last night. Looked just like what you want and was
pretty reasonable - $39.95 as I recall. Full width and with a handle to
lift the whole thing out (yeah! like it wouldn't weigh much huh?)

Hope this helps


At 11:54 AM 11/1/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Ok... I know that I am not the only one with this problem and certainly not
>the first! I have an '83 F100 regular cab and I store my esentials (tools,
>wheel wrench, washer fluid, rags, misc. but important junk, etc.) in that
>space behind the seat and of course under it. Well, you know what happens...
>you drive around and the stuff slides around, rattles and spills out around
>the ends of the seat. I need some sort of caddy to hold this stuff. I have
>seen them for car trunks but nothing for trucks! Can anyone help?
>
>*************************
>John Bowman
>'83 F100 (Big Red)
>Nova Scotia,Canada
>mooster canada.com
>*************************
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 07:10:47 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help

Blake Malkamaki wrote:
>
> >I have a 1984 F-150 with the TTB front IFS axle
> >what all is involved in putting the Dana44 out of a
> >70's truck in the place of the TTB,
> >I already know how to get the TTB out but will the other bolt up okay
> >besides maybe changing the radius arm brackets and will the coil springs
> >bolt up??
> >
>

I pesonally think it would be easier to swap to a leaf spring front on
80 up trucks than the older solid axle coil converison. I've seen it
done and it looks like swapping in the leaf mounts (frame) and
extending the drag link or dropping pitman is about all that is
required.

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 06:53:44 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ACCUSUMP

Mark,

Good research. Thanks for the link and source info.

Ken

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 07:32:48 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help

OX,

Over the years I've done leaf and coil conversions with solid axles. I've
even built 2 "trucks" with independent 4 wheel suspension and 4-wheel discs,
inboard mounted, powered by a mid-mounted Olds W-30 455 and a Cadi 500,
using inter-axle differentials. What I learned from experience:

Leafs and solid axles are easiest to install, and hold up better to rock
crawling, but they ride and handle like buckboard wagons.

4WIS rides and handles best by far, is the most difficult to install, and
works best in every situation, though is more likely to get damaged when
rock crawling. It is also much expensive to build and tune, even if you do
your own welding. My trucks had 26 inches of wheel travel front and rear and
could drive up a 2 foot retaining wall with 44 inch tires, even at some
angle, and no wheel would ever be in the air. BUT--the center sections would
get awfully close to the wall at times, hence the increased likelyhood of
damage. High speed running such as deserts, dunes, swamps, and fireroads
were these trucks best use. These suckers would be controllable and
comfortable at speeds solid axles couldn't even reach because their tires
were in the air spinning. Even was able to pass some 4X4 race trucks in the
corners at one Baja 1000, coming out of the mountains and approaching the
beach, just by sticking the nose inside and accelerating hard. Couldn't keep
up with them in a straight line, though. My 7.29 final drive severely
limited top speed, considering the Cadi 500 only turned 5000 rpm, even with
44 inch tires. Those Baja trucks must have done 130 tops on the beach. (I
was just cruising Baja on vacation, not racing.) The Olds powered truck did
extremely well in mud bogs and sand drags running Super Street classes,
easily climbing on top because of the low gearing, and very easy to control.

Solid axles and coils are nearly as tough as leafs, more trouble to install,
and handle and ride much better. Unless you do a lot of rock crawling, go
with coils. The improvement in ride and handling is well worth the effort.
I4WS is too much trouble and expense, but does work best. When I was last in
Sweden 4 years ago I saw some coil-equipped 4X4s that were awesome in their
ability to get up and over logs and ruts. There was one old Bronco, some old
WWII surplus Willys Jeeps (actually manufactured under license by Ford????),
and some Land Cruisers and Range Rovers. All were modified with either
independent or solid axles with coils front and rear, rolled on extremely
tall and narrow (by US standards) tires, and were geared in the basement,
like 6.17s.

Ken

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 11:14:30 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help

ken haley wrote:
>
> OX,
>
> Over the years I've done leaf and coil conversions with solid axles. I've
> even built 2 "trucks" with independent 4 wheel suspension and 4-wheel discs,
> inboard mounted, powered by a mid-mounted Olds W-30 455 and a Cadi 500,
> using inter-axle differentials. What I learned from experience:
>

Sounds like you've lived my dream life :-)

> Leafs and solid axles are easiest to install, and hold up better to rock
> crawling,

And really serious mudding. I and many of my friends have had lots of
problems with track bars when combined with big tires.

>but they ride and handle like buckboard wagons.

No argument there, although once big tires (38+) are introduced,
anything you do gives you a crappy ride

> 4WIS rides and handles best by far, is the most difficult to install, and
> works best in every situation,

Assuming they don't self destruct, but building your own stuff, I
assume, can overcome that.

> Solid axles and coils are nearly as tough as leafs, more trouble to install,
> and handle and ride much better. Unless you do a lot of rock crawling, go
> with coils.

I did, I modifed a leaf spring dana 60 solid axle for coils. The stock
track bar arrangement is just not up to the task. It flexes too much
creating wander side to side when steering. Offroad, it's not much of a
problem, but onroad, it bites. I mean it's livable, but not as direct as
a leaf spring front would be.

>The improvement in ride and handling is well worth the effort.

I'd say on road handling would be better with leaf, but ride would be
worse, mainly do to that track bar issue. I'd be curious to know why one
would swap from a dana 44 front to another dana 44 front. They both use
the same wimpy axles, axle U-joints, and small ring and pinions and the
ride quality between them is not all that different in relatively stock
configuration. The TTB radius arm issue can be addressed and they each
RTI about the same with the same mods, possibly TTB even a little
higher.

If your going to solid axle for the perceived strength advantage, then
I think it is foolish. If you are going to run big tires, I can pretty
much guarantee track bar problems eventually with 70's ford solid axle
setup (and breakage of axle U-joints). If your going for ride quality by
switching, I don't see that either.

OX


PS, What I know about swapping from TTB to solid axle is that supposedly
your radius arm mounts will work, just need to be moved back and
repositioned. Upper spring mounts need to be mounted to frame somehow,
as will track bar bracket. Will also need at least one passenger side
upper shock bracket. Since TTB steering box is inside frame, drag link
will be at heavy angle, especially if truck is lifted, possibly too much
of an angle for lower joint end on drag link. Will also possibly need
shorter drag link custom made. If no lift is used, pumpkin may hit
crossmember under engine.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 11:37:38 -0500
From: slikness mindspring.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dating a 351W

> I've got an '84 F-150 with a replacement 351W that is really pouring oilfrom the rear-main oil seal (I think, is seems to be where most the oil is coming from.) My question is twofold. The first part is where can I find the casting numbers on the block to date the engine,(pre/post '83

According to my Ford engine book: "The casting number and casting date code can be found at the right rear portion of the block just above the starter. The actual alphanumeric date code for engine manufacture is located on the block deck just below the distributor..."

There should be an alphanumeric with a single alpha character B-F where:

B=1950-59
C=1960-69
D=1970-79
E=1980-89
F=1990-99

Followed by an alphanumberic similar to 5A26, where:

5=Year of the decade (55,65,etc.)
A=Month of year (A=January, B=February,etc.)
26=Day of month

Hope that helps. If not, let me know and I will do some more searching in my book.

Slik
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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 12:17:42 -0600
From: "Neff, Charles"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Filthy throttle body and intake man

Protective Coating ???? I have been cleaning my throtle body and idle
speed control valve annually with carb cleaner and have never seen any
"protective coating". It's a 1987 F-150 302 with 176K, runs like new, only
engine components replaced have been plugs and Timing gear. Of course I
change oil every 3K miles too.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---------
> Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 20:55:18 EST
> From: SlamedF150 aol.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filthy throttle body and intake man

> man i hope u didn't really use carb cleaner on that. carb cleaner eats
away
> at the protective covering on trottle bodies. u need to use throttle body
> cleaner insted
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 13:52:57 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filthy throttle body and intake man

Neff, Charles wrote:
>
> Protective Coating ???? I have been cleaning my throtle body and idle
> speed control valve annually with carb cleaner and have never seen any
> "protective coating". It's a 1987 F-150 302 with 176K, runs like new, only
> engine components replaced have been plugs and Timing gear. Of course I
> change oil every 3K miles too.
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ---------
> > Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 20:55:18 EST
> > From: SlamedF150 aol.com
> > Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filthy throttle body and intake man
>
> > man i hope u didn't really use carb cleaner on that. carb cleaner eats
> away
> > at the protective covering on trottle bodies. u need to use throttle body
> > cleaner insted

I've heard about this coating from many sources, including Ford
mechanics. My 95 F250 (460) I just bought has a sticker on the throttle
body that says do not clean at all, not sure why yet.

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 14:20:24 -0600
From: "Steve Dyer"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Bug/rock deflectors

Bought my '94 F150 from a neighborhood chap who had never installed a
bug/rock deflector on the front end of the hood. It is nicely chipped now,
and to limit any further damage I'd like to slap on a deflector. Will they
all give good service or are some models better than others? I've heard
of some that attach with screws and some that use adhesive tabs, but would
like to
know what you guys have found to be the better performers. Thanks

Steve Dyer


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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 15:29:15 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Miss

Andy N. writes: >>I replaced the plugs and wires ~1000 miles ago

Check all your connections 1st. You might have a wire not fully seated in the
cap or not fully on the plug. These things have a funny way of happening from
time to time.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 16:06:08 -0500 (EST)
From: DBblueboy webtv.net (Jerome Kelly)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Radar

From time to time I get magazines that sell radar jammers or a
combinations of
a detector and jammer combined. Have
one company claim they will pay speeding
tickets for one years if you buy their devise. Sounds to good to be
true. These
devices are expensive, but worthless if
not effective. Does anyone have any input on them?



http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://community.webtv.net/DBblueboy/DayBreakblueboyblue

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 12:59:43 -0800
From: Randal Hansen
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Low Engine Temp with a '95 460

I have a 95 F-250XLT, 4X4, 460, auto.

My engine temperature needle rarely rises up to the 'N' in 'N O R M A L' on
the temp gage. I don't think I've ever seen it go any higher than the
letter 'N'. I'm wondering if the previous owner put a lower temp thermostat
or if mine is slightly stuck open (heater seems to works okay, not super hot
but does heat up).

I'm also wondering if running at that colder temperature is hurting my
performance and possibly mileage (I can live with 10 mpg).

Anyone else out there with a newer 460? What average temp do you see?

Thanks,
Randy


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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 16:31:15 EST
From: SlamedF150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Bug/rock deflectors

From me being a sport truck owner and going to lots of car shows I have found
the best thing is to get this stuff called "rock guard," it is a clear
protective film that u can apply to the hood, bumper, and bumper guard. It
looks a hell of a lot better that that "old news" bug deflector.

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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 16:34:21 EST
From: SlamedF150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radar

some work, others don't even turn on. be careful on witch one u buy
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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 16:36:56 EST
From: SlamedF150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Low Engine Temp with a '95 460

i have an 87, with 302 and it never rises above the n either. i have an 180
deg. thermostat in it. and also just remember the cooler the cooler your
engine the more performance you will have
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Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 17:17:39 -0500
From: Bob Hirsch
Subject: FTE 80-96 - no four wheel drive

My 84 F150 (auto w/ 302) won't come up my steep driveway.
The manual hubs are in "lock" ; the transfer case indicator light comes on and the shifter feels like it's going in but the front wheels don't turn when the rear wheels are spinning in wet leaves.
Both hubs bad? How do I test for bad hubs or bad transfer case?
Thanks.
Bob

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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 15:10:37 -0800
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - no four wheel drive

Try unlocking the hubs and putting it in 4wd. Then try driving slowly with
the door open and hang out under the truck and look at the front driveshaft.
If it is turning you either have a problem with the hubs or the front diff.
If it isn't turning then the problem lies in the t-case. Just don't fall
out and get run over by your own truck... >:^)

Rade Spasojevic -- rspasoje mindspring.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.2bigbroncos.org/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=194
- -Rubicon Tested-
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Hirsch
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 2:17 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - no four wheel drive


>
>My 84 F150 (auto w/ 302) won't come up my steep driveway.
>The manual hubs are in "lock" ; the transfer case indicator light comes on
and the shifter feels like it's going in but the front wheels don't turn
when the rear wheels are spinning in wet leaves.
>Both hubs bad? How do I test for bad hubs or bad transfer case?
>Thanks.
>Bob
>
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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 17:12:53 -0600
From: "Moore, Jimmy"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - thermostat

I still have the same old '81 Ford F-150 with a 300 I6 and 214k miles. Last
summer, the truck was tending to over heat, so to patch the problem, I
removed the thermostat all together (only after putting in three different
ones, and none seeming to help the situation). After that time, I no longer
have problems with overheating. The question is if that is bad for it.
Should I try to put in another one? I have since replaced all the hoses,
heater core, and radiator.

Jim
'81 F-150 300 I6


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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 18:14:59 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Low Engine Temp with a '95 460

>i have an 87, with 302 and it never rises above the n either. i have an 180
>deg. thermostat in it. and also just remember the cooler the cooler your
>engine the more performance you will have

We have discussed this over and over on this list and this is simply not
true. You get better heat transfer by using the factory recommended
thermostat, generally 190-195 deg F on a Ford gas engine.

Going cooler or not using a thermostat at all is inviting sludge problems
from moisture build-up in your oil.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 18:19:52 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help

>Solid axles and coils are nearly as tough as leafs, more trouble to install,
>and handle and ride much better. Unless you do a lot of rock crawling, go
>with coils. The improvement in ride and handling is well worth the effort.
>I4WS is too much trouble and expense, but does work best. When I was last in
>Sweden 4 years ago I saw some coil-equipped 4X4s that were awesome in their
>ability to get up and over logs and ruts. There was one old Bronco, some old
>WWII surplus Willys Jeeps (actually manufactured under license by Ford????),
>and some Land Cruisers and Range Rovers. All were modified with either
>independent or solid axles with coils front and rear, rolled on extremely
>tall and narrow (by US standards) tires, and were geared in the basement,
>like 6.17s.

There is a short article in the "Nuts & Bolts" section of the latest 4
Wheel & Off Road Magazine.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 17:49:35 -0600
From: "John M. Randall"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radar

The absolute best plan to avoid a speeding ticket is to go the speed limit,
if you stop and figure out what you save by increasing the speed by 10 MPH
it's not worth the ticket.

John

At 04:06 PM 11/3/99 -0500, you wrote:
> From time to time I get magazines that sell radar jammers or a
>combinations of
>a detector and jammer combined. Have
>one company claim they will pay speeding
>tickets for one years if you buy their devise. Sounds to good to be
>true. These
>devices are expensive, but worthless if
>not effective. Does anyone have any input on them?
>
>
>
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://community.webtv.net/DBblueboy/DayBreakblueboyblue
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 17:27:05 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Radar

I think these devices are illegal and the officer using the radar gun can
detect when one is being used. Sure, you will not get a ticket for speeding,
but I wonder what the fine/charge will be for interfering with police
activities. You are also in risk of transmitting radio waves without a
license If the power of the device is over 300 mW you are violating federal
laws. My older brother was a radar technician in the navy and he was busted
for jamming police radar back in the early seventies with some device he
brought home on leave, I am sure the laws are still in place to counter act
this. Maybe they will work in heavy traffic where you can hide in the
masses, but alone on the open road you are easy prey.

I think their guarantee is not broad enough to risk using them. Besides, it
has no effect on laser systems which I am seeing more of.

Here's a trick I picked up that is more worth while, removing your front
license plate if you speed all the time. The fine for not having one is much
cheaper than going 30 miles over the speed limit. Laser guns are aimed at
the license plate because it is the best reflective surface on your car. The
"retro-reflective paint" bounces the light directly back at the source. This
provides the strongest signal for the receiver on the laser gun and removing
it increases the chance of a poor reflection. I finally figured this out
after being pulled over in my Mustang 5 times by police shooting laser. In
my case they were all warnings because I also removed the bracket to hold
one when I repainted my car and filled in the holes that mount it.

My dark blue '83 GT Mustang had no reflective surfaces on it, frosted black
moldings, frosted black bumper, deep set headlights and turn signals. It was
the best "stealth" vehicle for laser speed traps. Without the license plate
it was totally invisible to laser.

Scott

- -----Original Message-----
From: DBblueboy webtv.net [SMTP:DBblueboy webtv.net]
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 2:06 PM

From time to time I get magazines that sell radar jammers or a
combinations of
a detector and jammer combined. Have
one company claim they will pay speeding
tickets for one years if you buy their devise. Sounds to good to be
true. These
devices are expensive, but worthless if
not effective. Does anyone have any input on them?



http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://community.webtv.net/DBblueboy/DayBreakblueboyblue
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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 16:48:43 -0800
From: "Tony & Chris Phaneuf"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys.

I had both problems with my 90 f-150
1. the problem with your pump that is still running when u shut the truck
off........it is the fuel pump relay under your hood...it is eadsy to find
and replace.

2. the problem with fuel starvation. I had to replace the fuel pump, which
is located inside the tank. you can verify this by checking your fuel
pressure. I had a friend at a ford dealer do this for me with their
dianostic computer. than I changed out the fuel pump which I might add cost
me $250.00 back in 94. you have to drop the fuel tank to do this and it will
take time..........but it will be alot cheaper than the dealer

Tony P
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Wheeler
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 5:25 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys.


>Can anyone help? My fuel pumps keep running after I shut off ignition.
>Also on and off problem with front tank. Fuel starvation. Perhaps a
>explanation of how system is controlled. Thank You
>
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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 19:14:08 -0600
From: "DannyF"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 91 f-150 fuel sys.

Replace the fuel pump relay. They tend to stick occasionally after
80-100k on this model. $7-10(non-dealer) and located in the relay
box behind the air box.

Need a few more details on the fuel problem...

Danny

> Can anyone help? My fuel pumps keep running after I shut off ignition.
> Also on and off problem with front tank. Fuel starvation. Perhaps a
> explanation of how system is controlled. Thank You


Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 19:25:12 -0600
From: "Ed Mount"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - no four wheel drive

I had one hub go out on my 94 F150, and neither front wheel would turn, so I
assume you only have one bad hub.


- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Hirsch
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 4:27 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - no four wheel drive


|
|My 84 F150 (auto w/ 302) won't come up my steep driveway.
|The manual hubs are in "lock" ; the transfer case indicator light comes on
and the shifter feels like it's going in but the front wheels don't turn
when the rear wheels are spinning in wet leaves.
|Both hubs bad? How do I test for bad hubs or bad transfer case?
|Thanks.
|Bob
|
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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 19:14:08 -0600
From: "DannyF"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Sort of off the subject

Have a '91 SeaRay w/the GM 3.0 I/O myself.

Your fuel system is gummed up including the carb. Empty that
tank, blow out the lines, change filter and clean/rebuild the carb.
Gas is worth 60-90 days and then begins to gum up/absorb water.
Small orifices in the carb don't like the gumming.

Sure hope your going to drain all the water out of it(3 places)
because in no. Tx your are going to freeze what water is in there.

A good site for I/O and OB winterizing is
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.brownsmarina.on.ca/techtips.html

Danny
> Hey guys I have a question that is not pertaining to a Ford Truck, I own a
> 1987 CrissCraft Cavalier Inboard/Outboard boat. I left it set up all
> summer
> long (no time). I was going to winterize it and decided I would go ahead
> and crank it up. Wouldn't start. I poured gas into the carb. no help.
> Any Ideas. I belive this to be a GM (Blahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh) engine 3.0
> litre
> four cylinder. I know this is off the subject of this list but I do
> pull
> it with a 1993 F-150 Supercab 351.
>


Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 19:14:08 -0600
From: "DannyF"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal?

Watch out w/this thing. If your not careful it can take the paint right
off. Ask me how I know :-0 Mine was a 3M disc/adapter you put
on a drill.

Danny

Go to your local body shop supplier and ask for an eraser wheel. It
is
made
out of stuff that greatly resembles and pencil eraser...... put on a drill
and go at it
Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 20:38:49 EST
From: Spruce1495 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Bug/rock deflectors

I had a bug/rock deflector on my '93 F150. It is molded and curved to fit
the front of the hood. It really did fit good, but the wind force pushed it
down against the hood in two identical locations and damaged the finish quite
badly. I would suggest getting a tube of RV sealant or silicone caulk
(clear) and applying a small uniform shaped amount at the high spots in the
hood and at the ends where the shield wraps around. Let this set-up good and
then fit your shield by fastening to hood and then trimming the silicone to
keep everything spaced from contact, yet so all looks good. This would have
kept mine from becoming damaged. Too late now.
Good Luck,
Bill B.
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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 19:17:18 -0600
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Is my Ignition Switch dying? And Heater Core.

I got in my truck once today, started ok, but didn't know the radio was off
'til the end of the street.
Next time it never came on until I switched off, then ACC. Then two or
three more times my radio worked fine. Is my switch crapping out?

I replaced my heater core monday with a Ford replacement. My HiLo
replacement made it about a year :-(
I drove later, and coolant stink and liquid were coming from under the
heater box...argh! Coulda punched BIG dents in my truck. Opened the hood
and heard hissing up near the nipples. The clamp LOOKED tight, and felt
tight, but a bit more tightening stopped the leak... WHEW!!!

Ah!!! Fall seems FINALLY here... I feel for you Snow Country guys, but I
LIKE the cooler weather we get here!!!

Dave H.
Houston, TX
92 F-150
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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 21:20:38 EST
From: MadHavelka cs.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - (no subject)

Hello list members,

Two questions:
First, it's spark plug time for my 88 F-150 (302, automatic). Any
suggestions? Better performance would be nice. Should I go with the
factory-spec gap or wider? If wider is advantageous, how much wider?
Second, the plastic bushing on my passenger-side striker bolt for the
door has disintegrated. The dealer wants $15 for a new bolt with the
bushing. This seems like a waste since I only need the bushing & they won't
sell it seperately. Does anyone know of a good substitute?

Thanx,

Mark
Austin, TX
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Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 21:47:24 -0500
From: flagship worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radar

Consider some research before wasting your money. There is no such
thing as a "passive" jammer. The jammers you refer to talk about
inserting an FM chirp and passively returning the signal. HOGWASH! To
be a jammer it must be jamming, therefore, it must be transmitting. If
it's transmitting on a frequency that's going to jam police radar, it
will also be setting off the detector all the time which makes it
worthless. There are jammers available. I have plans I got a long time
ago but they're expensive to build, and illegal to operate. Check back
issues of Car and Driver. They have done extensive testing of radars,
lasers and jammers. In fact, they tried to "jam" laser in a test in the
last year or so. It was interesting to note that merely turning on the
high beams during the day cut the distance of the laser so much you
would have to be asleep not to see the laser "trap". Another recent
issue of Car and Driver had an article on oil that's worth looking at..
It was about the reduction of zinc as an anti wear agent because it
interfered with the catalytic converter. It was directed mostly at
someone who drives a car rarely such as a classic you take out once a
month. Interesting reading.

Emil

Jerome Kelly wrote:
>
> >From time to time I get magazines that sell radar jammers or a
> combinations of
> a detector and jammer combined. Have
> one company claim they will pay speeding
> tickets for one years if you buy their devise. Sounds to good to be
> true. These
> devices are expensive, but worthless if
> not effective. Does anyone have any input on them?
>
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://community.webtv.net/DBblueboy/DayBreakblueboyblue
>
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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 21:45:30 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - (no subject)

>Hello list members,
>
>Two questions:
> First, it's spark plug time for my 88 F-150 (302, automatic). Any
>suggestions? Better performance would be nice. Should I go with the
>factory-spec gap or wider? If wider is advantageous, how much wider?

Go with stock plugs or Autolite Platinum. Do not go any higher heat range
than stock specs - Autolite 25. I have had problems with porcelain tip
burning because the previous owner had put one hotter heat range in. These
engines run so lean they get quite hot in the cylinders.

I am now running ACs of the stock heat range with good success. I don't
like Champion anymore - I have 60 year old Champions in tractors that are
still good, but the newer ones are not the same. Don't buy Bosch Platinums
as they burned too.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 21:39:22 -0700
From: "DENNIS THOMPSON"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - no four wheel drive

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Radoje Spasojevic
To:
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 4:10 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - no four wheel drive


> Try unlocking the hubs and putting it in 4wd. Then try driving slowly
with
> the door open and hang out under the truck and look at the front
driveshaft.

Let me know when you do this, I want to be there with my camera...

SPECTRE

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Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 20:44:29 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help

>ken haley wrote:
> >
> > OX,
> >
> > Over the years I've done leaf and coil conversions with solid axles.
>I've
> > even built 2 "trucks" with independent 4 wheel suspension and 4-wheel
>discs,
> > inboard mounted, powered by a mid-mounted Olds W-30 455 and a Cadi 500,
> > using inter-axle differentials. What I learned from experience:
> >
>
>Sounds like you've lived my dream life :-)

uP UNTIL I GOT MARRIED AND HAD KIDS, YES. oF COURSE, i'M HYPER AS ALL GET
OUT AND ONLY SLEEP ABOUT 3 HOURS EVERY OTHER NIGHT, NEVER WATCH tv, AND NEED
SOMETHING TO OCCUPY MY RUNAWAY MIND.
>
> > Leafs and solid axles are easiest to install, and hold up better to rock
> > crawling,
>
>And really serious mudding. I and many of my friends have had lots of
>problems with track bars when combined with big tires.

uSING STOCK TRACK BARS, BUSHINGS, AND MOUNTS???? I MADE MY OWN FROM AIRCRAFT
QUALITY ROD ENDS WITH MALE THREADS, AND SEAMLESS CHROMEMOLY TUBING. 1 INCH
THREADS ON THE ROD ENDS. ALSO RIPPED A FEW MOUNTS THROUGH STOCK
CROSSMEMBERS, SO USE 1/4 COLD ROLL BACKING PLATES TO DISTRIBUTE THE LOADS.
ALSO, BRACE THE MOUNT ON THE AXLE. bETTER YET, TRASH THE 44 AND PUT
SOMETHING BETTER UNDERNEATH.
>
> >but they ride and handle like buckboard wagons.
>
>No argument there, although once big tires (38+) are introduced,
>anything you do gives you a crappy ride
>
ACTUALLY, THE 4WIS "TRUCKS" RODE NICE, BUT THEY USED THE WHEEL SHAFTS, HUBS,
SPNDLES, BALL JOINTS, CV JOINTS, AND BRAKES FROM TORO AND ELDO. CONTROL ARMS
WERE WELDED FROM 2 INCH CHROMOLY SEAMLESS TUBING AND 3/8 INCH PLATE. DRIVE
TRAINS WERE TRANSVERSE MOUNTED TURBOHYDRAMATIC 425 AND gm V-8 WITH VERY
NARROW DANA 60S DRILLED 5 ON 5 MOUNTED SOLID TO THE FRAME, WITH HOME MADE
ROTORS SLIPED OVER THE LUGS AND ADAPTERS CLAMPING THE ROTORS AND BOLTING UP
TO THE FLANGE ON THE INNER CV JOINTS. nET:, THE TIRES ACTUALLY STAYED
VERTICAL THROUGH THE ENTIRE RANGE OF TRAVEL. tHE gmTRANSAXLE WAS FITTED WITH
2.70 GEARS, AS WERE THE AXLE CENTERS, YIELDING A FINAL DRIVE RATIO OF 7.29
WHEN IN HIGH GEAR ON THE TRANS. tHAT'S ABOUT THE SAME AS 3.73 GEARS IN LOW
RANGE IN A CONVENTIONAL 4x4.

> > 4WIS rides and handles best by far, is the most difficult to install,
>and
> > works best in every situation,
>
>Assuming they don't self destruct, but building your own stuff, I
>assume, can overcome that.

NOPE, BUT ONE CAN TRY.
>
> > Solid axles and coils are nearly as tough as leafs, more trouble to
>install,
> > and handle and ride much better. Unless you do a lot of rock crawling,
>go
> > with coils.
>
> I did, I modifed a leaf spring dana 60 solid axle for coils. The stock
>track bar arrangement is just not up to the task. It flexes too much
>creating wander side to side when steering. Offroad, it's not much of a
>problem, but onroad, it bites. I mean it's livable, but not as direct as
>a leaf spring front would be.

BUILD A BETTER TRACK BAR SETUP. SEE ABOVE.
>
> >The improvement in ride and handling is well worth the effort.
>
> I'd say on road handling would be better with leaf, but ride would be
>worse, mainly do to that track bar issue. I'd be curious to know why one
>would swap from a dana 44 front to another dana 44 front. They both use
>the same wimpy axles, axle U-joints, and small ring and pinions and the
>ride quality between them is not all that different in relatively stock
>configuration. The TTB radius arm issue can be addressed and they each
>RTI about the same with the same mods, possibly TTB even a little
>higher.

I NEVER SWAPPED A 44 FOR A 44. WASTE OF MONEY. 44S ARE INADEQUATE FOR ANY
TIRE OF 33 DIAMETER, AND INADEQUATE FOR ANY BIG BLOCK ENGINE. pUT A 60, 70,
9, OR 10.25, EVEN A gm 12 BOLT, ANYTHING BUT A 44 OR 8.8.
>
> If your going to solid axle for the perceived strength advantage, then
>I think it is foolish. If you are going to run big tires, I can pretty
>much guarantee track bar problems eventually with 70's ford solid axle
>setup (and breakage of axle U-joints).

ABSOLUTERLY!!!!!

If your going for ride quality by
>switching, I don't see that either.

NEITHER DO I. IF RIDE QUALITY IS THAT IMPORTANT, BUY A CROWN VIC.
>
> OX
>
>
>PS, What I know about swapping from TTB to solid axle is that supposedly
>your radius arm mounts will work, just need to be moved back and
>repositioned. Upper spring mounts need to be mounted to frame somehow,
>as will track bar bracket. Will also need at least one passenger side
>upper shock bracket. Since TTB steering box is inside frame, drag link
>will be at heavy angle, especially if truck is lifted, possibly too much
>of an angle for lower joint end on drag link. Will also possibly need
>shorter drag link custom made. If no lift is used, pumpkin may hit
>crossmember under engine.
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Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 21:01:29 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - (no subject)

On the topic of heat ranges:

In the olden days (pre oil injection) this old fart began his offroading on
2 stroke dirtbikes. It was common to have 2 spark plug holes, one with a
hooter plug to start and warm the engine and a cooler plug for running with.
This prevented plug fouling when the engine was cold.

Every piston i burned a hole in was right below the hot plug. It doesn't
matter if I ever used the hot plug or not, it was the one that burned the
hole in the piston.

NET: Be aware that too-hot plugs may cause your pistons to develop holes.
This can really play havoc with compression.

Ken

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 00:20:38 -0500
From: Bob Hirsch
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - (no subject)

At 21-20 1999-11-03 EST, you wrote:
>
> Second, the plastic bushing on my passenger-side striker bolt for the
>door has disintegrated. The dealer wants $15 for a new bolt with the
>bushing. This seems like a waste since I only need the bushing & they won't
>sell it seperately. Does anyone know of a good substitute?

Duct tape????
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Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 00:27:46 -0500 (EST)
From: Ken Woods
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - (no subject)

On Thu, 4 Nov 1999, Bob Hirsch wrote:
> At 21-20 1999-11-03 EST, you wrote:
> > Second, the plastic bushing on my passenger-side striker bolt for the
> >door has disintegrated. The dealer wants $15 for a new bolt with the
> >bushing. This seems like a waste since I only need the bushing & they won't
> >sell it seperately. Does anyone know of a good substitute?
> Duct tape????

PVC pipe.
That's what I'm using.

Or duct tape.
That, or just weld the door closed.

- --
Ken Woods
kwoods kens.com

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Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 23:25:42 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Low Engine Temp with a '95 460

Sounds like someone put a 180 degree thermostat in it. Or it could be stuck
open. You can not really go by the guages to measure the absolute
temperature, though. These guages just give you a relative FEEL for what
the engine is doing. You drive it every day and get used to seeing the
needle in one position and then you are warned that you may have a problem
when the needle suddenly goes to another position.

I recommend you take the truck to a good radiator shop and have them use a
thermometer gun on the outlet from the engine. They should do it for you
for free; it takes them 30 seconds. Then you will know what you have. These
guns are amazing. You aim it at something and squeeze the trigger...
instantly you have a digital readout of the temperature. Then you will have
a direct calibration of "N" to a real temperature. If you want to get a few
more temperature readings, block the radiator while it idles and watch the
guage. Take another temperature reading as the needle passes each letter.

My outlet reads about 170 degrees most of the time with a 180 degree
thermostat installed. The needle sits between N and O in this case. With
the A/C on in the summer it runs pretty steady between O and R (but I do
not have a actual temperature reading for this case -- I don't really care.)

Good luck.

At 12:59 03/11/99 -0800, you wrote:
>I have a 95 F-250XLT, 4X4, 460, auto.
>
>My engine temperature needle rarely rises up to the 'N' in 'N O R M A L' on
>the temp gage. I don't think I've ever seen it go any higher than the
>letter 'N'. I'm wondering if the previous owner put a lower temp thermostat
>or if mine is slightly stuck open (heater seems to works okay, not super hot
>but does heat up).
>
>I'm also wondering if running at that colder temperature is hurting my
>performance and possibly mileage (I can live with 10 mpg).
>
>Anyone else out there with a newer 460? What average temp do you see?


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 23:44:00 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Is my Ignition Switch dying? And Heater Core.

Dave-
Happy Fall! I love this cool weather! (So does the truck.)

At 19:17 03/11/99 -0600, you wrote:
>I got in my truck once today, started ok, but didn't know the radio was off
>'til the end of the street.
>Next time it never came on until I switched off, then ACC. Then two or
>three more times my radio worked fine. Is my switch crapping out?

Anything else not working that is on the key, like your heater fan? If so,
the switch is going. If not, I'd look for a loose fuse or wire somewhere.

>I replaced my heater core monday with a Ford replacement. My HiLo
>replacement made it about a year :-(
>I drove later, and coolant stink and liquid were coming from under the
>heater box...argh! Coulda punched BIG dents in my truck. Opened the hood
>and heard hissing up near the nipples. The clamp LOOKED tight, and felt
>tight, but a bit more tightening stopped the leak... WHEW!!!

Your post reminds me of a tip I have been meaning to pass on for some time
now regarding heater hoses and radiator hoses on any car or truck. Any time
you install one, put a light coat of this blue goop inside the end of the
hose called "Permatex Hypalon". Any good auto parts place will have it
(even Hi-Lo). It does two things:

1. When you install the hose and tighten the clamp, it will REALLY seal.
You do not have to tighten the clamp up so tight that it cuts into the
rubber hose just to stop that little bit of weeping you sometimes see at
the end of the hose. Make sure that the clamp IS tight, though, or the hose
will blow off under pressure. Ask me how I know! ;-) It won't leak, but
it will slide off.

2. What I really like, is when you go to remove the hose several years
later, you do not have cut the hose off of the heater outlet, radiator,
etc. It just slips right off with a good twist.

>Ah!!! Fall seems FINALLY here... I feel for you Snow Country guys, but I
>LIKE the cooler weather we get here!!!

Me too! I was in 40 below in Russia last winter and it was painful.


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 23:51:10 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - (no subject)

At 21:20 03/11/99 EST, Mark wrote:
>Hello list members,
>
>Two questions:
> First, it's spark plug time for my 88 F-150 (302, automatic). Any
>suggestions? Better performance would be nice. Should I go with the
>factory-spec gap or wider? If wider is advantageous, how much wider?

If you are not burning oil, so the plugs do not foul easily, go with a good
platinum plug and gap to manufacturers spec. The plugs will last forever (I
mean the electrodes will not burn away) if you can keep them from fouling.
Only then is it worth the extra cost for the platinum plugs. My dad ran a
set 185 k miles! Never regapped them; never took them out of the engine!

If your plugs tend to foul, then go with good conventional plugs and just
replace often, when fouled.

> Second, the plastic bushing on my passenger-side striker bolt for the
>door has disintegrated. The dealer wants $15 for a new bolt with the
>bushing. This seems like a waste since I only need the bushing & they won't
>sell it seperately. Does anyone know of a good substitute?

I am pretty sure the bolt and bushing can be purchased at any old auto
parts store. I do not think it is a dealer-only part. It should be cheaper
there.


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 00:08:41 -0600
From: "Steve Dyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - (no subject)

Second, the plastic bushing on my passenger-side striker bolt for the door
has disintegrated. The dealer wants $15 for a new bolt with the bushing.
This seems like a waste since I only need the bushing & they won't
sell it seperately. Does anyone know of a good substitute?

- ---------------------

Whatever you wind up using, be sure to lube it before you walk away. Lack
of lube on this bushing created a maddening squeak that somehow seemed to
come from the rear corner of the cab on my '94 F150. I ripped out all the
interior moulding, the back seat, belts and everything before finally
tracking it down to the bolt/bushing. All the passengers and
squeak-finding helpers I enlisted swore like I did that the squeak was
coming from somewhere in the back. In desperation I shot the bushing with
WD-40 and the squeak immediately disappeared.

Steve Dyer


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Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 00:13:42 -0600
From: "Shawn & Jennifer Clark"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing

Andy Norris wrote:
>>
My '89 F250 has developed a miss, and I'm not sure what the steps to check
are. First of all, what is the easiest way to determine which plug isn't
firing? Timing light?

I replaced the plugs and wires ~1000 miles ago. What's next? Distributor?
Coil?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.


Andy, don't assume that the plugs or wires are good just because they are
new. I put new Motorcrap plugs and some Autozone wires on my 91 F-150 only
10,000 miles ago. The idle was a little smoother after that but still not
perfect; and it seemed to go back to being somewhat coarse after a month or
two. Then one day it started running really poorly when I needed to haul
some furniture (it always *knows* when its got me by the short and
curlies.) When it got dark I cracked the hood to look for shorts in the
wires, it rewarded me with a blue light show. So much for "lifetime"
wires. I upgraded to a set of Accel spiral cores and it got better, but
still had trouble. The next day, I decided to experiment and bought some
NGK plugs for it (normal V-power ones, nothing fancy.) It now runs better
than it ever has before. Idle is very smooth now and it has a lot more
power. I'll have to wait until next summer to see if it pings under full
throttle on hills in the Texas summer heat. Besides the truck, I already
had NGK's in two other vehicles, a mower, a trimmer, and a chainsaw. NGK
makes quality plugs, I have never had any that *needed* replacement
although I replace them every 30,000 miles anyway (not that many miles on
the mower of course...lol) One other thing I noticed is that the truck no
longer seems to try to die right after I start it when it has been sitting
overnight. It used to do that, particularly on cold mornings. If you buy
NGK's set the gap properly, the factory gap differed considerably from the
Ford spec. I changed the coil out at the same time as the wires since I
saw some arcing in its vicinity--however, it checked out fine (it was
really inexpensive.)

My 2 cents worth is to replace Ford OEM electrical parts with aftermarket
stuff whenever you suspect they are giving you trouble, particularly
ignition components. (Perhaps this advice is inapplicable for the newer
Fords, YMMV.) I have limited experience with these trucks, but I have
noticed ignition problems on several of them and Explorers too. Nearly all
of the electrical components on my truck have had some sort of problem
(although some of these were things like cheap/fragile plastic gear sets on
the power windows.) I'm beginning to suspect that a considerable amount of....


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