From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #308
Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Sender: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Errors-To: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Precedence: bulk


80-96-list-digest Wednesday, November 3 1999 Volume 03 : Number 308



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
majordomo ford-trucks.com
with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list-digest" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters
Re: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal?
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires
FTE 80-96 - Missing
FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Fram Filters- Priming
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires
Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing
Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing
Laser, was; Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires
Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters
FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE!
Re: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE!
Re: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE!
Re: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE!
FTE 80-96 - 96 F150 302
FTE 80-96 - Re: Laser,
Re: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE!
Re: FTE 80-96 - 96 F150 302
FTE 80-96 - Sort of off the subject
RE: FTE 80-96 - Sort of off the subject
Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing
Re: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help
Re: Laser, was; Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires
Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild
Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters
FTE 80-96 - 1989 F-150 Tailgate
RE: FTE 80-96 - Sort of off the subject
Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing
Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help
FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys.
Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys.
Re: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Filthy throttle body and intake man
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys.
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys.
FTE 80-96 - Engine Casting Numbers
FTE 80-96 - ACCUSUMP

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 07:23:51 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters

Ed Mount wrote:
>
> Why doesn't someone invent an electric oil pump that could be switched on
> for a few seconds before startup?
>

It's already avail, or at least was. I used to see ads in Pop.
Mechanics. Pretty expensive though.

OX
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 09:20:51 -0700
From: "DENNIS THOMPSON"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal?

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Hirsch
To:
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 2:59 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal?

3M makes a decal remover called "woodgrain and decal remover" or something
like that, you'll find it at auto stores. spray it on and the decals bubble
up. then take a plastic body filler spreader and scrape 'em off. then you
probably need to remove the residue of the glue with lighter fluid or the
like.

SPECTRE

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 11:34:12 EST
From: BRIGANDBAR aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires

In a message dated 99-11-02 06:29:39 EST, you write:


From: flagship worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires

Troy,

If you're going to use highway markers it is very important to make sure
you're to the exact second on timing. One way to reduce this factor
though, is to time it out over 2 or 3 or more miles. That way that
error is divisible by 2 or more helping to make it more accurate.


Emil >>

Emil has a really good point in distributing the error over a greater length
of roadway. Of course, this procedure complicates the problem of holding a
steady speed and finding a longer length of straight and level road.

There used to be a number of on-road "speedometer check" markings. Come to
think of it, I haven't seen these lately, but they were great. Measured 5
mile courses with more precise markings on the roadway, and set without stop
lights, etc. which would interfere with calculations.

One thing that I do is use the "lap timer" on my watch, and time individual
mile times as well as the total time calculations. This way I can calculate
a number of individual error factors as well as mean speed for the course.

One other thing, if you live in a rural area, or are friendly with a state
trooper or deputy sheriff, you can perhaps find an area where it is legal to
drive at 50, 60, and 70 mph (or 40/50/60 mph if that is more feasible) and
just have him clock you on his radar/lidar. I only suggest these speeds to
avoid placing him in a rock and a hard place by asking him to ignore a
premeditated violation. It all depends upon your relationship with the
officer, but even a cold contact with a traffic division officer will often
result in his being willing to clock you at one or more legal speeds. These
guys aren't inherently evil, they have a job to do, and generally, if you
convince him you just want to have a base point to avoid a traffic ticket,
and its not release time at the school in the school zone that he is working,
he'll be willing to work with you, especially if you've changed out tire
sizes, etc. and have a reasonable explanation as to why you need the help.

Steve
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 11:08:28 -0600
From: Andy Norris
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Missing

Hello all,

My '89 F250 has developed a miss, and I'm not sure what the steps to check
are. First of all, what is the easiest way to determine which plug isn't
firing? Timing light?

I replaced the plugs and wires ~1000 miles ago. What's next? Distributor? Coil?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Andy Norris

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:30:33 -0500
From: Bryant Smith
Subject: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal

Bob, the best way I found was to use WD-40. Spray it on a shop towel (or
directly to the paint) and wipe lightly to get the stripes wet. Let it
sit for a minute or so. This will normally soften the adhesive and they
will rub off with another rag. This is also an excellent way to remove
tree sap and road tar. And best of all it won't harm the finish, but it
may take off some of the wax.

Bryant Smith
'93 Flareside SC

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 04:59:46 -0500
From: Bob Hirsch
Subject: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal?

My 84 F150 has three tape stripes on each side that are cracked and
dried.
I've been trying to get them off with a hair dryer; but they're coming
off in
tiny pieces and it's taking way too many hours.
Anybody have any tips/tricks to get these tape stripes off?

Thanks.
Bob
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:16:51 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Fram Filters- Priming

Well, kindergarten teachers can't afford Maserati Biturbos and Porsche 911s,
but those who can surely are able to afford $200 oil changes.

Ken

______________________________________________________
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:43:59 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires

Steve,

Good point!!! "To protect and serve." Hmmm. Just walk into the nearest PD
and explain your needs. I asked my school's resident officer about this, he
radioed a traffic enforcement car and made the arrangements. The traffic
enforcement officer said he wished more people would ask--he says many
factory calibrations are off 10%. Most folks push the "5 over theory", then
are shocked to find 35 on the speedo is really 38, and they get a ticket.

Also, he checks the "Your speed is..." devices against the certified speedo
in his vehicle daily. He also calibrates the laser and radar speed
detectors, which are instant on, daily. His laser detector has a 3 power
scope, and he can isolate a specific vehicle in a group, though he will only
pick one in a group if it is obviously faster. I asked about vehicles
passing at angles rather than directly into the beam and he said the radar
is slightly affected by such angles (less than + or - 1.5 mph), but the
laser uses computer technology to analyze the changes in the light spectrum
emitted by the device to instantly compute and correct the readings. He also
warned that the new laser detectors will not detect his beam unless he aims
it at the hood or windshield of a vehicle. At 1 mile away the beam is only
1/2 inch in diameter, unlike radar that covers a MUCH wider area.

Also, the computerized laser device records every time it is used. If a
speeding violation is detected a video tape is automatically started to
record the offense. If the video kicks on (at 6 mph over the posted speed)
he is required to write a ticket, unless there is a group of vehicles and he
cannot readily determine the culprit. He is required to clock 200 vehicles
per day. His best days are when not a single one is more than 5 over. His
boss is happy with no tickets because that means the traffic safety
awareness program (now 3 years old and has reduced the auto accident rate by
35%) in town is working. He said the only people he enjoys giving tickets to
are those that have $300 laser detectors on the dash.

There you have it--at least one PD is more concerned about your safety than
income from speeding tickets, and is willing to put money and effort into
ensuring public safety.

Ken


______________________________________________________
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:53:37 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing

Andy,

Your F250 has developed a miss? Really? Is she cute? If so, will she develop
a cute miss for me????

If a yiming light hooked up to particular plug wires doesn't flash on one
but does on the other , you are really lucky. The problem is either that
plug wire, plug, or distributor cap is bad. What a great way to save
troubleshooting time, when it works.

What I do is to remove one plug wire at a time and plug it into a plug
vice-gripped to a ground. Then I start the motor to listen if it runs worse
or the same. If it runs worse, the unplugged cylinder isn't the problem.

I have a special set of plug wire pliers for pulling wires while the engine
is running, but I'm afraid that might damage an electronic ignition these
days. When you pulled a running cylinder, the engine would miss worse. A
dead miss wouldn't affect the way the engine ran when it was pulled.

Ken

>
>Hello all,
>
>My '89 F250 has developed a miss, and I'm not sure what the steps to check
>are. First of all, what is the easiest way to determine which plug isn't
>firing? Timing light?
>
>I replaced the plugs and wires ~1000 miles ago. What's next? Distributor?
>Coil?
>
>Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
>
>Andy Norris
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

______________________________________________________
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:55:28 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing

Andy,

Your F250 has developed a miss? Really? Is she cute? If so, will she develop
a cute miss for me????

If a yiming light hooked up to particular plug wires doesn't flash on one
but does on the other , you are really lucky. The problem is either that
plug wire, plug, or distributor cap is bad. What a great way to save
troubleshooting time, when it works.

What I do is to remove one plug wire at a time and plug it into a plug
vice-gripped to a ground. Then I start the motor to listen if it runs worse
or the same. If it runs worse, the unplugged cylinder isn't the problem.

If the test plug has a good spark, then it's a safe bet the plug is bad or
that cylinder has lost compression. (Assuming a carb.)

I have a special set of plug wire pliers for pulling wires while the engine
is running, but I'm afraid that might damage an electronic ignition these
days. When you pulled a running cylinder, the engine would miss worse. A
dead miss wouldn't affect the way the engine ran when it was pulled.

Of course, if you are running all the computerized stuff, none of this
works.

Ken

>
>Hello all,
>
>My '89 F250 has developed a miss, and I'm not sure what the steps to check
>are. First of all, what is the easiest way to determine which plug isn't
>firing? Timing light?
>
>I replaced the plugs and wires ~1000 miles ago. What's next? Distributor?
>Coil?
>
>Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
>
>Andy Norris
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

______________________________________________________
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 14:20:20 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: Laser, was; Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires

ken haley wrote:
>

> is slightly affected by such angles (less than + or - 1.5 mph),

If he is only 10 degrees off which is almost guaranteed. If he is 20, it
jumps to 4-5 MPH. 30 degrees, it jumps to 8 MPH. Higher speeds means it
more off.

but the
> laser uses computer technology to analyze the changes in the light spectrum
> emitted by the device to instantly compute and correct the readings.

I'd like to hear that explained a little better.

He also
> warned that the new laser detectors will not detect his beam unless he aims
> it at the hood or windshield of a vehicle. At 1 mile away the beam is only
> 1/2 inch in diameter,

Hmmm...., the Kustom Signals Pro-laser and LTI 20-20 are 5.8 and 4.5
feet wide respectively at 1000 feet. I'd say the beam is more like a
"highway" wide at 1 mile away.

OX
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 13:35:09 -0600
From: Andy Norris
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing

Thanks for your response, Ken,

It's EFI. Timing light approach should work still, right? Funny you should
mention a carb... It sounds a little like a VW Beetle I used to have would
sound when the carb on it was out of adjustment (pretty much all the time).
It started doing this last Thursday somewhere on the highway between where
I work and where I take a class... somewhere along 30 miles of ~70 mph
driving. It was a pretty cool day (~68), and the engine wasn't hot. Another
clue might be that if, while I'm sitting in it with it in Park, I rock the
accelerator in and out a little bit, it sputters, but won't backfire.

I don't know if I'd be comfortable pulling plug wires while running the
engine, or starting it without plug wires plugged in... But I could try.
There are some kinds of work on a car/truck that I don't have enough
experience with to be confident that I'm not going to make things worse.

I had an appointment to take it in on Thursday, but I would rather do it
myself and learn.

Thanks,

Andy

p.s. If it stays missing I might have to put up signs and offer a reward...
p.p.s. I do have a manual (Chiltons), and it's dirty and oily, but the
manuals aren't a good source of info for trouble shooting.



At 10:55 AM 11/2/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Andy,
>
>Your F250 has developed a miss? Really? Is she cute? If so, will she
>develop a cute miss for me????
>
>If a yiming light hooked up to particular plug wires doesn't flash on one
>but does on the other , you are really lucky. The problem is either that
>plug wire, plug, or distributor cap is bad. What a great way to save
>troubleshooting time, when it works.
>
>What I do is to remove one plug wire at a time and plug it into a plug
>vice-gripped to a ground. Then I start the motor to listen if it runs
>worse or the same. If it runs worse, the unplugged cylinder isn't the problem.
>
>If the test plug has a good spark, then it's a safe bet the plug is bad or
>that cylinder has lost compression. (Assuming a carb.)
>
>I have a special set of plug wire pliers for pulling wires while the
>engine is running, but I'm afraid that might damage an electronic ignition
>these days. When you pulled a running cylinder, the engine would miss
>worse. A dead miss wouldn't affect the way the engine ran when it was pulled.
>
>Of course, if you are running all the computerized stuff, none of this works.
>
>Ken

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 06:48:34 +1100
From: les williams
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters

Hi Ken,

The following post has nothing to do with fram filters and probably even less to
do specifically with 80-96 ford trucks.

Doesn't that sound rather like those Turbo Charger shut down oilers ? that's
not quite what its called, but the principle is to build up a quart or so head
of oil which drains back thru the turbo under residual pressure to help prevent
premature turbo bearing failure on shut down ? It seems to work on turbo
engines. O.K. Now, we are to reverse engineer this device to work on start up
? An interesting concept.... I suppose like all things, does the result
justify the expence?
Geez, my oil is going to need a bloody road map to find it's way around, thru
filters, on to the cooler, back up thru the vaporizer (don't ask!! it's Phred's
contrubition to propane burners!!) OUR newly developed oil primer, then back
into the engine....and for the really paranoid, an oil pressure and temp gauge
at each junction, - just to be sure!! ....But I'm Still having Fun.......;-))
...I think....

Regards

Les
Lost in the Land of OZ

ken haley wrote:

> Les,
>
>
> A simpler system would be to plumb the pressure sender through a T fitting
> with a hose going to the bottom of a pressure vessel. As oil pressure builds
> up to acceptable levels, a bypass would allow high pressure oil to enter the
> can, a check valve would hold the pressure in. A selenoid-operated valve
> parallel to the bypass/check valve circuit would allow the air pressure in
> the can to force a quart or so of oil into the pressure sender port of the
> oiling system, oiling the engine.
>
> I'm not sure what effect such a system would have on the oil level in the
> pan in various operationg conditions. Might work/might not. Such is the
> nature of brainstorming and research.
>
> Ken
>
> "If we knew what it was we were doing, it would not be called research,
> would it?" --Albert Einstein

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 15:28:26 -0500
From: Matthew Hayduk
Subject: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE!

Hi yall,

It's been a while and I have just been lurking in the backround reading the
list...

I just installed a mechanical oil pres guage on my 83 F-150 with the 300
I6. My question realates to what is good oil pres. I use 10/40 and the
truck has about 140,000 miles on it.

Cold idle (1100 rpms) 55-60 psi

HOT (after 1 hour interstate drive) idle 15 psi
HOT driving 25-30 psi

Should I be worried or do i just need 20/50? BTW, my mech temp guage is
next, so i will know how hot the engine is at these times.

TIA for your help...


Matthew Hayduk
mhayduk bigfoot.com ICQ: 3680882 pager.mirabilis.com

94 SVT Cobra Coupe White/Black Leather #4270 of 5009 SCOA
8.795 79.071 Mph PERSONAL TOP SPEED: 137 mph
- K&N FIPK
- Mac Long Tubes, Offroad X pipe Flowmaster 2 chamber
- Pro 5.0 Power Tower Shifter
- Autometer Cowl Mounted Fuel Pres Guage
- Motorsport Aluminum Driveshaft
- CEnterforce Dual Friction Clutch
- Compucar Wet Nitrous System -- 90 Shot == NEVER USED
83 Ford Mustang LX 4 cyl car---460 project
83 F150 XLT 300ci I6 A/T
71 Volkswagen Bug
?? Volkswagen Rail Buggy
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 16:06:15 -0500
From: Mike Sloane
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE!

My own personal opinion, but I thing you are doing fine and should leave 10W40
in it. If you go to a heavier weight oil, it will be harder to start in cold
weather. Based on what I have been seeing on various lists, changing to 20W50
won't make much difference when the engine is hot. The functions of the oil are
1) provide a film that lubricates moving parts, 2) remove and suspend dirt and
other contaminants, and 3) carry heat away from the moving parts. At 25-30 psi,
the oil is still doing all of those things, but I suggest you keep the engine
speed down somewhat below what you might do with an engine with less mileage.

Mike

Matthew Hayduk wrote:

> Hi yall,
>
> It's been a while and I have just been lurking in the backround reading the
> list...
>
> I just installed a mechanical oil pres guage on my 83 F-150 with the 300
> I6. My question realates to what is good oil pres. I use 10/40 and the
> truck has about 140,000 miles on it.
>
> Cold idle (1100 rpms) 55-60 psi
>
> HOT (after 1 hour interstate drive) idle 15 psi
> HOT driving 25-30 psi
>
> Should I be worried or do i just need 20/50? BTW, my mech temp guage is
> next, so i will know how hot the engine is at these times.
>
> TIA for your help...
>
> Matthew Hayduk
> mhayduk bigfoot.com ICQ: 3680882 pager.mirabilis.com
>
> 94 SVT Cobra Coupe White/Black Leather #4270 of 5009 SCOA
> 8.795 79.071 Mph PERSONAL TOP SPEED: 137 mph
> - K&N FIPK
> - Mac Long Tubes, Offroad X pipe Flowmaster 2 chamber
> - Pro 5.0 Power Tower Shifter
> - Autometer Cowl Mounted Fuel Pres Guage
> - Motorsport Aluminum Driveshaft
> - CEnterforce Dual Friction Clutch
> - Compucar Wet Nitrous System -- 90 Shot == NEVER USED
> 83 Ford Mustang LX 4 cyl car---460 project
> 83 F150 XLT 300ci I6 A/T
> 71 Volkswagen Bug
> ?? Volkswagen Rail Buggy
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

- --

- ------------
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
(msloane att.net)

or



== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 15:59:46 EST
From: FULSZBRONC AOL.COM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE!

Your oil pressure readings sound perfectly fine, no reason to worry nor
change to a thicker oil. Any particular reason for installing an
after-market oil pressure gauge?
When you install your after-market temp gauge, are you going to measure the
temp of the oil or the temp of the engine (coolant)? If you want realistic
coolant temp readings, be sure to install the sensor according to directions.
When I installed a water temp gauge on my engine a couple of years ago, it
was for diagnosis purposes...I found a thermostat housing (goose neck) that
was drilled and tapped to take the temperature sensor so I would know exactly
when the thermostat opened. Naturally, it reads VERY hot (220 degrees+) when
sitting in traffic, scaring many of my passengers into thinking I was on the
verge of over-heating!! But, with a clean and efficient cooling system and a
thermstatically controlled electric fan ( threw away the factory fan and
shroud), the original guage in the dash never goes past the ''R'' in
''NORMAL" And yep, we're still havin' fun!!

In a message dated 11/02/1999 01:32:55 PM Mountain Standard Time,
mhayduk bigfoot.com writes:



HOT (after 1 hour interstate drive) idle 15 psi
HOT driving 25-30 psi >>
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 16:38:22 EST
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE!

In a message dated 11/2/99 3:37:08 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mhayduk bigfoot.com writes:

>
This is an 1/8th mile time correct?
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 16:45:23 -0500
From: Rich
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 96 F150 302

I have a question., My 302 has 77k on it, and I just changed the
plugs about 2 weeks ago, I pulled one of the plugs to look at it, and it
looks to be a clean white, almost like the engine is running lean, and
when i look at the exhaust pipe, the thing is clean as a bell, even when
running there is no moisture in the pipe or anything. Is this normal?
Not really concerned about it, just wondering for some feedback.
Thanks,
Rich
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 16:57:16 -0500
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Laser,

- ----- Original Message -----
From: James Oxley
To:
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 2:20 PM
Subject: Laser, was; Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires


> ken haley wrote:
> >
>
> > is slightly affected by such angles (less than + or - 1.5 mph),
>
> If he is only 10 degrees off which is almost guaranteed. If he is 20, it
> jumps to 4-5 MPH. 30 degrees, it jumps to 8 MPH. Higher speeds means it

The steeper the angle, the lower the reading that is returned. The angle of
incidence with the target must be kept to as close to 90 degrees as possible
to get the highest readings. Curves on highways over the crest of a hill
make the best target zones.

> more off.
>
> but the
> > laser uses computer technology to analyze the changes in the light
spectrum
> > emitted by the device to instantly compute and correct the readings.
>
> I'd like to hear that explained a little better.

I don't think you ever will. Laser light is monochromatic (one colour),
there is no "spectrum" as such.

>
> He also
> > warned that the new laser detectors will not detect his beam unless he
aims
> > it at the hood or windshield of a vehicle. At 1 mile away the beam is
only
> > 1/2 inch in diameter,
>
> Hmmm...., the Kustom Signals Pro-laser and LTI 20-20 are 5.8 and 4.5
> feet wide respectively at 1000 feet. I'd say the beam is more like a
> "highway" wide at 1 mile away.

Exactly, the beams on these devices must diverge at quite a wide angle (in
laser terms) otherwise the beam coming back would also be very narrow. Far
too narrow in fact to strike the receiver. If there is more than one
vehicle on the the road a mile away, laser readings are useless. There is
no feed back system in targeting (scopes) of laser speed measuring devices,
until the vehicles are within a few hundred yards you have no hope of
picking one out of a crowd.

Which brings us to trucks. Being so large and flat fronted, they produce
the best reflected signals (as with RADAR). In testing we had dark coloured
Corvettes and Cougars past by undetected (no licence plates), but a pickup
truck will bounce a signal from over 500 M (1600 ft) At 1000 feet a quick
moving car and a slow moving truck will probably return the speed of the
truck.

A method used to select only one lane of traffic is to aim the gun (looks
more like a camera now) parallel to the road, no readings are returned, then
turn the gun ever so slightly towards the road until there are good
readings. This won't pick up anyone in the other lanes, but this is why you
will see laser setups in the median of divided hyways.

Best bet, if you have oversize tires, get your speedo recalibrated, or just
go with the flow.

Matt


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:54:55 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE!

>I just installed a mechanical oil pres guage on my 83 F-150 with the 300
>I6. My question realates to what is good oil pres. I use 10/40 and the
>truck has about 140,000 miles on it.

Your pressure is just fine. 5 psi is enough to lubricate the engine
properly. I have a diesel that barely put out 5 and has been that way for
the last 40 years and runs fine.

Good idea to put the mechanical gauge in as the electrical one is not
always reliable. I did the same and I get about the same oil pressure as
you do.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:56:19 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 96 F150 302

>I have a question., My 302 has 77k on it, and I just changed the
>plugs about 2 weeks ago, I pulled one of the plugs to look at it, and it
>looks to be a clean white, almost like the engine is running lean, and
>when i look at the exhaust pipe, the thing is clean as a bell, even when
>running there is no moisture in the pipe or anything. Is this normal?
>Not really concerned about it, just wondering for some feedback.
>Thanks,
>Rich

Yes normal. These computer controlled engines run a lot leaner than the
older ones.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 16:03:29 PST
From: "Christopher Worley"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Sort of off the subject

Hey guys I have a question that is not pertaining to a Ford Truck, I own a
1987 CrissCraft Cavalier Inboard/Outboard boat. I left it set up all summer
long (no time). I was going to winterize it and decided I would go ahead
and crank it up. Wouldn't start. I poured gas into the carb. no help.
Any Ideas. I belive this to be a GM (Blahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh) engine 3.0 litre
four cylinder. I know this is off the subject of this list but I do pull
it with a 1993 F-150 Supercab 351.

Chris
Waxahachie, TX
'93 F-150 SC 351

______________________________________________________
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 17:12:08 -0700
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Sort of off the subject

You say you pull it with a Ford, close enough for me!

Remove the plugs, clean or replace them, and put them back.

Drain the gas, oil, and replace it with some that doesn't probably have
water condensation in it.

Winterizing is very important. You should always drain the gas and the oil
if possible.

Later,
Scott

- -----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Worley [SMTP:cworley76 hotmail.com]

Hey guys I have a question that is not pertaining to a Ford Truck, I own a
1987 CrissCraft Cavalier Inboard/Outboard boat. I left it set up all summer

long (no time). I was going to winterize it and decided I would go ahead
and crank it up. Wouldn't start. I poured gas into the carb. no help.
Any Ideas. I belive this to be a GM (Blahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh) engine 3.0 litre

four cylinder. I know this is off the subject of this list but I do pull
it with a 1993 F-150 Supercab 351.

Chris
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 19:00:30 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing

>What I do is to remove one plug wire at a time and plug it into a plug
>vice-gripped to a ground. Then I start the motor to listen if it runs worse
>or the same. If it runs worse, the unplugged cylinder isn't the problem.

Pull the wires from the distributor one wire at a time to see if there is a
difference in how the engine runs. If no change -- that is the bad
cylinder.

Before electronic ignition you could pull them one by one by hand, but now
the spark will reach out and grab you. Use some good insulated pliers.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 19:06:11 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal?

>My 84 F150 has three tape stripes on each side that are cracked and dried.
>I've been trying to get them off with a hair dryer; but they're coming off
>in tiny pieces and it's taking way too many hours.
>Anybody have any tips/tricks to get these tape stripes off?
>

We have a sign business and we use denatured ethyl alcohol.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 19:09:32 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help

>I have a 1984 F-150 with the TTB front IFS axle
>what all is involved in putting the Dana44 out of a
>70's truck in the place of the TTB,
>I already know how to get the TTB out but will the other bolt up okay
>besides maybe changing the radius arm brackets and will the coil springs
>bolt up??
>

I think it is a great idea, but you'd be best to have the two trucks side
by side as you are figuring things out.

The 70s trucks used rubber radius arm C-bushings to adjust caster. These
are available in the aftermarket for various corrections.

Write a book about how to do this and I bet you'll get rich selling it.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 16:16:59 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: Laser, was; Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires

>ken haley wrote:
> >
>
> > is slightly affected by such angles (less than + or - 1.5 mph),
>
>If he is only 10 degrees off which is almost guaranteed. If he is 20, it
>jumps to 4-5 MPH. 30 degrees, it jumps to 8 MPH. Higher speeds means it
>more off.

Gee, and the DEW line is this iffy about velocity. I think not. I worked on
a commercial fishing vessel that had radar that could track and determine
not only speed and direction, but changes in either, and follow a programed
course up the intercoastal in southeast Florida, automatically adjusting
steering for wind and current drift, all while the boat rocked and pitched.
Not only that, but the ground speed was instantly available, even when maxed
out at 30 knots. I understand the new top-of-the-line GPS autohelms can put
one within 10 feet of a specified point at a specified time, and give ground
speed instantaneously within a few hundredths of a km per hr., all done by
computers.

Considering that Patriot missiles can hit other missiles dozens of miles
away, coming from a wide range of vectors at 25 000 kph, I don't think
current technology has a problem with vectors.

>
> but the
> > laser uses computer technology to analyze the changes in the light
>spectrum
> > emitted by the device to instantly compute and correct the readings.
>
> I'd like to hear that explained a little better.

Hmmm??? Ever hear of "Doppler effect"? Ever hear the name "Hubble"? Yup, the
telescope guy. He used "red shift" to deduce the expansion of the known
universe. You can learn more about the such principles at the NASA homepage,
or enroll in the quantum electrodynamics course I team teach.
>
>He also
> > warned that the new laser detectors will not detect his beam unless he
>aims
> > it at the hood or windshield of a vehicle. At 1 mile away the beam is
>only
> > 1/2 inch in diameter,
>
>Hmmm...., the Kustom Signals Pro-laser and LTI 20-20 are 5.8 and 4.5
>feet wide respectively at 1000 feet. I'd say the beam is more like a
>"highway" wide at 1 mile away.

I do not know the exact measurement of the officer's beam, nor did I bother
myself with brands and model numbers. I do know that lasers are capable of
microminutes of angle accuracy, in relatively clean, thermodynamically
stable air. Dust or humidity in the air, or "heat waves" coming off pavement
can considerably widen a beam, as well as measurably change the speed at
which the photons travel. I aimed the laser myself, and clocked several
vehicles. I could actually fire the beam between 2 vehicles approaching
about 3/4 mile away and get no reading.

What it all boils down to is maintenance and proper use of the devices. I
HAVE clocked a shed at 21 mph, but with the Little League's pitching radar.
a device the local PD donated to the league years ago. The devices I used
this morning were fitted with gyroscopes to detect movement that could
affect the results, and automatically nullified incorrect usage. How about
this: the operator must not wrap his thumb around the grip because the pulse
in the thumb could nullify any readings.

Yes, there is shoddy equipment out there, and shoddier operators, but there
is also modern, well-maintained equipment and conscientious, well-trained
operators. Think twice before asking the judge to throw out a citation for
equipment calibration issues. With 4 certified devices comopared to each
other on a daily basis for calibration purposes, one hasn't a chance in this
town. Better yet, set a good example for your children and respect the law.
If you want to go fast, take it to the track.

Ken


>
> OX
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

______________________________________________________
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 19:15:54 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR

>Can someone tell me if a faulty EGR valve cause white smoke to come from
>the exhaust. I pulled some codes that
>indicated the EGR was not full seating.
>I am puzzled about the smoke. I can
>understand the stumble of the engine
>under a load. Could I have a blown head
>gasket also?
>

By white smoke do you mean steam? If it is continuous, I would think you
have water getting into the cylinders somehow. Probably head gasket. Did it
get hot one time? That could mean cracked head. A friend just replace head
gasket on 300 six due to water dripping from exhaust pipe.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 19:23:23 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild

>>Fellow Listers,
>>Well, looks like I'm going to have to rebuild the 302 in my 93 F150. I've
>
>>already started tearing it apart. I'm really excited, this is the first
>time I
>>have taken apart a motor. By the way, I'm the guy that has no compression
>in
>>cylinders 7 and 8. My question is, what do I look for and what are
>components
>>that I should replace(worn or maybe not worn)? On top of all of that,
>what can
>>I do while I have it apart to increase horse power? As I said, I am a
>virgin
>>to rebuilds, so any and all help/suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
>
>>Jason

Jason,

As far as what to look for depends on how deeply you are going into your
engine. Are you pulling the heads? If so, you might as well go all the way
and have her bored and get new pistons; have your heads all checked and new
valve guides and valve job. Check crank and rods and replace bearings. Go
to high volume oil pump.

The no compression is probably stuck rings or burned pistons on those holes.

For more power you could go with a Crane Computcam. Otherwise you will have
to get a reprogram chip. Or you could get a mass-air kit - then you can
make bigger changes and the engine will learn to use them - things like
higher lift cams, higher compression pistons, bigger valves. All these will
give you more power.



Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 16:25:57 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing

Have you checked the toubleshooting codes from the computer? Many on this
list really are savvy about that stuff. I understand that it can be done
with a VOM from Walmart. Personally, I have a 2.3 Mustang with EFI, and a
460 Bronco with Edelbrock Pro-jection. The Mustang runs fine so I haven't
had to learn that stuff, yet. The Pro-jection interfaces with my laptop for
tuning and trouble shooting, and I get fault messages in words on the
screen, not secret spy codes like Ford.

DO NOT PULL PLUGWIRES OFF A RUNNING ENGINE. Clamp an extra plug to a good
ground, hook the plugwire to it. However, I'm sure doing so would really
mess with the computer, so you may not learn anything, anyway.

Ken

>
>Thanks for your response, Ken,
>
>It's EFI. Timing light approach should work still, right? Funny you should
>mention a carb... It sounds a little like a VW Beetle I used to have would
>sound when the carb on it was out of adjustment (pretty much all the time).
>It started doing this last Thursday somewhere on the highway between where
>I work and where I take a class... somewhere along 30 miles of ~70 mph
>driving. It was a pretty cool day (~68), and the engine wasn't hot. Another
>clue might be that if, while I'm sitting in it with it in Park, I rock the
>accelerator in and out a little bit, it sputters, but won't backfire.
>
>I don't know if I'd be comfortable pulling plug wires while running the
>engine, or starting it without plug wires plugged in... But I could try.
>There are some kinds of work on a car/truck that I don't have enough
>experience with to be confident that I'm not going to make things worse.
>
>I had an appointment to take it in on Thursday, but I would rather do it
>myself and learn.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Andy
>
>p.s. If it stays missing I might have to put up signs and offer a reward...
>p.p.s. I do have a manual (Chiltons), and it's dirty and oily, but the
>manuals aren't a good source of info for trouble shooting.
>
>
>
>At 10:55 AM 11/2/99 -0800, you wrote:
>>Andy,
>>
>>Your F250 has developed a miss? Really? Is she cute? If so, will she
>>develop a cute miss for me????
>>
>>If a yiming light hooked up to particular plug wires doesn't flash on one
>>but does on the other , you are really lucky. The problem is either that
>>plug wire, plug, or distributor cap is bad. What a great way to save
>>troubleshooting time, when it works.
>>
>>What I do is to remove one plug wire at a time and plug it into a plug
>>vice-gripped to a ground. Then I start the motor to listen if it runs
>>worse or the same. If it runs worse, the unplugged cylinder isn't the
>>problem.
>>
>>If the test plug has a good spark, then it's a safe bet the plug is bad or
>>that cylinder has lost compression. (Assuming a carb.)
>>
>>I have a special set of plug wire pliers for pulling wires while the
>>engine is running, but I'm afraid that might damage an electronic ignition
>>these days. When you pulled a running cylinder, the engine would miss
>>worse. A dead miss wouldn't affect the way the engine ran when it was
>>pulled.
>>
>>Of course, if you are running all the computerized stuff, none of this
>>works.
>>
>>Ken
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

______________________________________________________
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 16:32:53 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters

Les,

I first discovered the air/pressure storage concept used in "pressure tanks"
for well pumps. I used the concept succesfully in a drag class that was
restricted to stock fuel pumps. I've also used an adaptation of the concept
to bleed brakes and flush air conditioners. Now you tell me such devices are
already in use for turbo bearings? Well, it's worth thinking about. As for
is it worth the expense, well, probably not--just more fittings to leak,
electric devices to break, and more work to keep clean.

Ken

______________________________________________________
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 19:35:43 -0500
From: flagship worldnet.att.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1989 F-150 Tailgate

I seem to remember someone looking for a tailgate for an F-150 recently.
If they're still looking, there is one currently on ebay. Item # is
189594619. Currently at 50 bucks with reserve not met.
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 16:54:52 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Sort of off the subject

NEVER let steel oil pans or fuel tanks sit empty. Condensation will corrode
them out in no time.

To properly set up any gasoline engine for storage:

1) Add the correct amount of fuel preservative to the tank.

2) Run the engine 10 or 15 minutes to distribute the fuel preservative.

If carberated:

3) Drain the fuel tank.

4) Run the carb dry (but never run fuel injection dry).

5) Add fuel preservative to the tank.

6) Fill the tank to the top.

7) Close all vents.

8) Change the oil and filter.

9) Do not run the engine after the oil change.

10) Store the battery in a dry, well-ventilated place.

11) Check battery water monthly and top off charge.

12) Set vehicle frame on stands with tires off the ground.

To take the vehicle out of storage:

1) Fill tires.

2) Reinstall battery.

3) Change oil and filter.

4) Turn the key and drive away.

5) Within a week or so change trans, case, axle fluids and lubricants,
repack front bearings, and check coolant for level of protection.

Ken

______________________________________________________
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 17:14:15 -0800
From: "Kevin Crandall"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing

Andy, start by pulling a wire off of the plug and start it up. If the engine
runs bad, put the wire back and try another, until you find one that don't
make any difference then you found the bad plug or plug wire. By the way be
sure to shut the engine off when disconnecting and reconnecting plug wires.
:-) I suppose that would be a good way to check the wire, good luck

Kevin


- ----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Norris
To:
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 9:08 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Missing


>
> Hello all,
>
> My '89 F250 has developed a miss, and I'm not sure what the steps to check
> are. First of all, what is the easiest way to determine which plug isn't
> firing? Timing light?
>
> I replaced the plugs and wires ~1000 miles ago. What's next? Distributor?
Coil?
>
> Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
>
> Andy Norris
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 17:17:32 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help

Spend the money for polyurethane bushings--a bit more "feel" and noise to
the steering and ride, but much improved handling.

My son recently built a lowered 2WD Bronco so his parapalegic sweetie
(victim of a drunk driver) will be able to get in easily when they are old
enough to drive, in about a year and a half. We bent and welded a tube front
axle with the 70s style eccentrics and positioning hardware, and used early
Econoline spindles with 2WD rotors and calipers hung on using custom
brackets and some special order bearings. One coil was clamped on the front
springs and the rear axle was flipped, now residing on top of the spring.
It's nice to have a brother-in-law who allows free access to his tool and
die shop after hours, and a sister who sells bearings for a living.

Browsing the local autoparts emporium yielded shorter Gabriel Red Riders
front and rear that fit perfectly. Lord only knows what they are for. The
damping characteristics are a bit stiff, but the sucker corners really well.
Stock front and rear sway bars were retained, but the rear end links were
swapped for homemade shorter versions. Polyurethane bushings are used
throughout.

Net: the Bronco rides about like a 79 F150 I had years ago, but with a bit
more chop from the shorter wheelbase and a lot less body roll. The truck
sits 2-3 inches lower than an F150 2WD, but still has enough clearnce that
speedbumps are not a problem. And Heather can get in and out unassisted.
(She is getting around fairly well with leg braces and crutches, now.
Determined to shed both within a year and return to competitive cheerleading
and gymnastics.)

ken

______________________________________________________
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 17:25:50 -0800
From: "John Wheeler"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys.

Can anyone help? My fuel pumps keep running after I shut off ignition.
Also on and off problem with front tank. Fuel starvation. Perhaps a
explanation of how system is controlled. Thank You

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 20:37:04 -0600
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing

>DO NOT PULL PLUGWIRES OFF A RUNNING ENGINE. Clamp an extra plug to a good
>ground, hook the plugwire to it. However, I'm sure doing so would really
>mess with the computer, so you may not learn anything, anyway.

It will not hurt to pull the wires out of the distributor when it is
running. May zap YOU though. Don't pull the wires off the plugs as you will
have a live wire looking for a place to ground to and it may zap you or
another wire someplace.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 20:42:14 EST
From: SlamedF150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys.

mite have possible broken wires in your fuel pump relays. i had one that was
broken off inside the protective cover. the relays are on the side of air box
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 20:47:38 EST
From: SlamedF150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal?

Go to your local body shop supplier and ask for an eraser wheel. It is made
out of stuff that greatly resembles and pencil eraser...... put on a drill
and go at it
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 20:55:18 EST
From: SlamedF150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filthy throttle body and intake man

man i hope u didn't really use carb cleaner on that. carb cleaner eats away
at the protective covering on trottle bodies. u need to use throttle body
cleaner insted
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 21:03:13 -0500
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys.

Sonds like the fuel pump relay is stuck (welded) shut. I'm not sure where
the relay is on your truck, but it's probably due for replacement.

Starvation usually indicates a clogged filter, but it only happens on the
front tank? Maybe the pickup screen in the tank is clogged.


Matt
- ----- Original Message -----
From: John Wheeler
To:
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 8:25 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys.


> Can anyone help? My fuel pumps keep running after I shut off ignition.
> Also on and off problem with front tank. Fuel starvation. Perhaps a
> explanation of how system is controlled. Thank You
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 21:37:28 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys.

Since they are IN TANK pumps, perhaps the front pump is dead/dieing.

At 21:03 02/11/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Sounds like the fuel pump relay is stuck (welded) shut. I'm not sure where
>the relay is on your truck, but it's probably due for replacement.
>
>Starvation usually indicates a clogged filter, but it only happens on the
>front tank? Maybe the pickup screen in the tank is clogged.
>
>
>Matt
>----- Original Message -----
>From: John Wheeler
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 8:25 PM
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys.
>
>
>> Can anyone help? My fuel pumps keep running after I shut off ignition.
>> Also on and off problem with front tank. Fuel starvation. Perhaps a
>> explanation of how system is controlled. Thank You
>>
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.