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From: owner-80-96-list-digest
To: 80-96-list-digest Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #308 Reply-To: 80-96-list Sender: owner-80-96-list-digest Errors-To: owner-80-96-list-digest Precedence: bulk 80-96-list-digest Wednesday, November 3 1999 Volume 03 : Number 308 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo with the words "unsubscribe 80-96-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters Re: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal? Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires FTE 80-96 - Missing FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Fram Filters- Priming Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing Laser, was; Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE! Re: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE! Re: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE! Re: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE! FTE 80-96 - 96 F150 302 FTE 80-96 - Re: Laser, Re: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE! Re: FTE 80-96 - 96 F150 302 FTE 80-96 - Sort of off the subject RE: FTE 80-96 - Sort of off the subject Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing Re: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal? Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help Re: Laser, was; Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters FTE 80-96 - 1989 F-150 Tailgate RE: FTE 80-96 - Sort of off the subject Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys. Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing Re: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys. Re: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal? Re: FTE 80-96 - Filthy throttle body and intake man Re: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys. Re: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys. FTE 80-96 - Engine Casting Numbers FTE 80-96 - ACCUSUMP ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 07:23:51 -0500 From: James Oxley Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters Ed Mount wrote: > > Why doesn't someone invent an electric oil pump that could be switched on > for a few seconds before startup? > It's already avail, or at least was. I used to see ads in Pop. Mechanics. Pretty expensive though. OX == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 09:20:51 -0700 From: "DENNIS THOMPSON" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal? - ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Hirsch To: Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 2:59 AM Subject: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal? 3M makes a decal remover called "woodgrain and decal remover" or something like that, you'll find it at auto stores. spray it on and the decals bubble up. then take a plastic body filler spreader and scrape 'em off. then you probably need to remove the residue of the glue with lighter fluid or the like. SPECTRE == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 11:34:12 EST From: BRIGANDBAR Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires In a message dated 99-11-02 06:29:39 EST, you write: From: flagship Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires Troy, If you're going to use highway markers it is very important to make sure you're to the exact second on timing. One way to reduce this factor though, is to time it out over 2 or 3 or more miles. That way that error is divisible by 2 or more helping to make it more accurate. Emil >> Emil has a really good point in distributing the error over a greater length of roadway. Of course, this procedure complicates the problem of holding a steady speed and finding a longer length of straight and level road. There used to be a number of on-road "speedometer check" markings. Come to think of it, I haven't seen these lately, but they were great. Measured 5 mile courses with more precise markings on the roadway, and set without stop lights, etc. which would interfere with calculations. One thing that I do is use the "lap timer" on my watch, and time individual mile times as well as the total time calculations. This way I can calculate a number of individual error factors as well as mean speed for the course. One other thing, if you live in a rural area, or are friendly with a state trooper or deputy sheriff, you can perhaps find an area where it is legal to drive at 50, 60, and 70 mph (or 40/50/60 mph if that is more feasible) and just have him clock you on his radar/lidar. I only suggest these speeds to avoid placing him in a rock and a hard place by asking him to ignore a premeditated violation. It all depends upon your relationship with the officer, but even a cold contact with a traffic division officer will often result in his being willing to clock you at one or more legal speeds. These guys aren't inherently evil, they have a job to do, and generally, if you convince him you just want to have a base point to avoid a traffic ticket, and its not release time at the school in the school zone that he is working, he'll be willing to work with you, especially if you've changed out tire sizes, etc. and have a reasonable explanation as to why you need the help. Steve == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 11:08:28 -0600 From: Andy Norris Subject: FTE 80-96 - Missing Hello all, My '89 F250 has developed a miss, and I'm not sure what the steps to check are. First of all, what is the easiest way to determine which plug isn't firing? Timing light? I replaced the plugs and wires ~1000 miles ago. What's next? Distributor? Coil? Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Andy Norris == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:30:33 -0500 From: Bryant Smith Subject: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal Bob, the best way I found was to use WD-40. Spray it on a shop towel (or directly to the paint) and wipe lightly to get the stripes wet. Let it sit for a minute or so. This will normally soften the adhesive and they will rub off with another rag. This is also an excellent way to remove tree sap and road tar. And best of all it won't harm the finish, but it may take off some of the wax. Bryant Smith '93 Flareside SC Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 04:59:46 -0500 From: Bob Hirsch Subject: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal? My 84 F150 has three tape stripes on each side that are cracked and dried. I've been trying to get them off with a hair dryer; but they're coming off in tiny pieces and it's taking way too many hours. Anybody have any tips/tricks to get these tape stripes off? Thanks. Bob == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:16:51 PST From: "ken haley" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Fram Filters- Priming Well, kindergarten teachers can't afford Maserati Biturbos and Porsche 911s, but those who can surely are able to afford $200 oil changes. Ken ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:43:59 PST From: "ken haley" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires Steve, Good point!!! "To protect and serve." Hmmm. Just walk into the nearest PD and explain your needs. I asked my school's resident officer about this, he radioed a traffic enforcement car and made the arrangements. The traffic enforcement officer said he wished more people would ask--he says many factory calibrations are off 10%. Most folks push the "5 over theory", then are shocked to find 35 on the speedo is really 38, and they get a ticket. Also, he checks the "Your speed is..." devices against the certified speedo in his vehicle daily. He also calibrates the laser and radar speed detectors, which are instant on, daily. His laser detector has a 3 power scope, and he can isolate a specific vehicle in a group, though he will only pick one in a group if it is obviously faster. I asked about vehicles passing at angles rather than directly into the beam and he said the radar is slightly affected by such angles (less than + or - 1.5 mph), but the laser uses computer technology to analyze the changes in the light spectrum emitted by the device to instantly compute and correct the readings. He also warned that the new laser detectors will not detect his beam unless he aims it at the hood or windshield of a vehicle. At 1 mile away the beam is only 1/2 inch in diameter, unlike radar that covers a MUCH wider area. Also, the computerized laser device records every time it is used. If a speeding violation is detected a video tape is automatically started to record the offense. If the video kicks on (at 6 mph over the posted speed) he is required to write a ticket, unless there is a group of vehicles and he cannot readily determine the culprit. He is required to clock 200 vehicles per day. His best days are when not a single one is more than 5 over. His boss is happy with no tickets because that means the traffic safety awareness program (now 3 years old and has reduced the auto accident rate by 35%) in town is working. He said the only people he enjoys giving tickets to are those that have $300 laser detectors on the dash. There you have it--at least one PD is more concerned about your safety than income from speeding tickets, and is willing to put money and effort into ensuring public safety. Ken ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:53:37 PST From: "ken haley" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing Andy, Your F250 has developed a miss? Really? Is she cute? If so, will she develop a cute miss for me???? If a yiming light hooked up to particular plug wires doesn't flash on one but does on the other , you are really lucky. The problem is either that plug wire, plug, or distributor cap is bad. What a great way to save troubleshooting time, when it works. What I do is to remove one plug wire at a time and plug it into a plug vice-gripped to a ground. Then I start the motor to listen if it runs worse or the same. If it runs worse, the unplugged cylinder isn't the problem. I have a special set of plug wire pliers for pulling wires while the engine is running, but I'm afraid that might damage an electronic ignition these days. When you pulled a running cylinder, the engine would miss worse. A dead miss wouldn't affect the way the engine ran when it was pulled. Ken > >Hello all, > >My '89 F250 has developed a miss, and I'm not sure what the steps to check >are. First of all, what is the easiest way to determine which plug isn't >firing? Timing light? > >I replaced the plugs and wires ~1000 miles ago. What's next? Distributor? >Coil? > >Any and all help is greatly appreciated. > >Andy Norris > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:55:28 PST From: "ken haley" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing Andy, Your F250 has developed a miss? Really? Is she cute? If so, will she develop a cute miss for me???? If a yiming light hooked up to particular plug wires doesn't flash on one but does on the other , you are really lucky. The problem is either that plug wire, plug, or distributor cap is bad. What a great way to save troubleshooting time, when it works. What I do is to remove one plug wire at a time and plug it into a plug vice-gripped to a ground. Then I start the motor to listen if it runs worse or the same. If it runs worse, the unplugged cylinder isn't the problem. If the test plug has a good spark, then it's a safe bet the plug is bad or that cylinder has lost compression. (Assuming a carb.) I have a special set of plug wire pliers for pulling wires while the engine is running, but I'm afraid that might damage an electronic ignition these days. When you pulled a running cylinder, the engine would miss worse. A dead miss wouldn't affect the way the engine ran when it was pulled. Of course, if you are running all the computerized stuff, none of this works. Ken > >Hello all, > >My '89 F250 has developed a miss, and I'm not sure what the steps to check >are. First of all, what is the easiest way to determine which plug isn't >firing? Timing light? > >I replaced the plugs and wires ~1000 miles ago. What's next? Distributor? >Coil? > >Any and all help is greatly appreciated. > >Andy Norris > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 14:20:20 -0500 From: James Oxley Subject: Laser, was; Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires ken haley wrote: > > is slightly affected by such angles (less than + or - 1.5 mph), If he is only 10 degrees off which is almost guaranteed. If he is 20, it jumps to 4-5 MPH. 30 degrees, it jumps to 8 MPH. Higher speeds means it more off. but the > laser uses computer technology to analyze the changes in the light spectrum > emitted by the device to instantly compute and correct the readings. I'd like to hear that explained a little better. He also > warned that the new laser detectors will not detect his beam unless he aims > it at the hood or windshield of a vehicle. At 1 mile away the beam is only > 1/2 inch in diameter, Hmmm...., the Kustom Signals Pro-laser and LTI 20-20 are 5.8 and 4.5 feet wide respectively at 1000 feet. I'd say the beam is more like a "highway" wide at 1 mile away. OX == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 13:35:09 -0600 From: Andy Norris Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing Thanks for your response, Ken, It's EFI. Timing light approach should work still, right? Funny you should mention a carb... It sounds a little like a VW Beetle I used to have would sound when the carb on it was out of adjustment (pretty much all the time). It started doing this last Thursday somewhere on the highway between where I work and where I take a class... somewhere along 30 miles of ~70 mph driving. It was a pretty cool day (~68), and the engine wasn't hot. Another clue might be that if, while I'm sitting in it with it in Park, I rock the accelerator in and out a little bit, it sputters, but won't backfire. I don't know if I'd be comfortable pulling plug wires while running the engine, or starting it without plug wires plugged in... But I could try. There are some kinds of work on a car/truck that I don't have enough experience with to be confident that I'm not going to make things worse. I had an appointment to take it in on Thursday, but I would rather do it myself and learn. Thanks, Andy p.s. If it stays missing I might have to put up signs and offer a reward... p.p.s. I do have a manual (Chiltons), and it's dirty and oily, but the manuals aren't a good source of info for trouble shooting. At 10:55 AM 11/2/99 -0800, you wrote: >Andy, > >Your F250 has developed a miss? Really? Is she cute? If so, will she >develop a cute miss for me???? > >If a yiming light hooked up to particular plug wires doesn't flash on one >but does on the other , you are really lucky. The problem is either that >plug wire, plug, or distributor cap is bad. What a great way to save >troubleshooting time, when it works. > >What I do is to remove one plug wire at a time and plug it into a plug >vice-gripped to a ground. Then I start the motor to listen if it runs >worse or the same. If it runs worse, the unplugged cylinder isn't the problem. > >If the test plug has a good spark, then it's a safe bet the plug is bad or >that cylinder has lost compression. (Assuming a carb.) > >I have a special set of plug wire pliers for pulling wires while the >engine is running, but I'm afraid that might damage an electronic ignition >these days. When you pulled a running cylinder, the engine would miss >worse. A dead miss wouldn't affect the way the engine ran when it was pulled. > >Of course, if you are running all the computerized stuff, none of this works. > >Ken == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 06:48:34 +1100 From: les williams Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters Hi Ken, The following post has nothing to do with fram filters and probably even less to do specifically with 80-96 ford trucks. Doesn't that sound rather like those Turbo Charger shut down oilers ? that's not quite what its called, but the principle is to build up a quart or so head of oil which drains back thru the turbo under residual pressure to help prevent premature turbo bearing failure on shut down ? It seems to work on turbo engines. O.K. Now, we are to reverse engineer this device to work on start up ? An interesting concept.... I suppose like all things, does the result justify the expence? Geez, my oil is going to need a bloody road map to find it's way around, thru filters, on to the cooler, back up thru the vaporizer (don't ask!! it's Phred's contrubition to propane burners!!) OUR newly developed oil primer, then back into the engine....and for the really paranoid, an oil pressure and temp gauge at each junction, - just to be sure!! ....But I'm Still having Fun.......;-)) ...I think.... Regards Les Lost in the Land of OZ ken haley wrote: > Les, > > > A simpler system would be to plumb the pressure sender through a T fitting > with a hose going to the bottom of a pressure vessel. As oil pressure builds > up to acceptable levels, a bypass would allow high pressure oil to enter the > can, a check valve would hold the pressure in. A selenoid-operated valve > parallel to the bypass/check valve circuit would allow the air pressure in > the can to force a quart or so of oil into the pressure sender port of the > oiling system, oiling the engine. > > I'm not sure what effect such a system would have on the oil level in the > pan in various operationg conditions. Might work/might not. Such is the > nature of brainstorming and research. > > Ken > > "If we knew what it was we were doing, it would not be called research, > would it?" --Albert Einstein == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 15:28:26 -0500 From: Matthew Hayduk Subject: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE! Hi yall, It's been a while and I have just been lurking in the backround reading the list... I just installed a mechanical oil pres guage on my 83 F-150 with the 300 I6. My question realates to what is good oil pres. I use 10/40 and the truck has about 140,000 miles on it. Cold idle (1100 rpms) 55-60 psi HOT (after 1 hour interstate drive) idle 15 psi HOT driving 25-30 psi Should I be worried or do i just need 20/50? BTW, my mech temp guage is next, so i will know how hot the engine is at these times. TIA for your help... Matthew Hayduk mhayduk 94 SVT Cobra Coupe White/Black Leather #4270 of 5009 SCOA 8.795 - K&N FIPK - Mac Long Tubes, Offroad X pipe Flowmaster 2 chamber - Pro 5.0 Power Tower Shifter - Autometer Cowl Mounted Fuel Pres Guage - Motorsport Aluminum Driveshaft - CEnterforce Dual Friction Clutch - Compucar Wet Nitrous System -- 90 Shot == NEVER USED 83 Ford Mustang LX 4 cyl car---460 project 83 F150 XLT 300ci I6 A/T 71 Volkswagen Bug ?? Volkswagen Rail Buggy == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 16:06:15 -0500 From: Mike Sloane Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE! My own personal opinion, but I thing you are doing fine and should leave 10W40 in it. If you go to a heavier weight oil, it will be harder to start in cold weather. Based on what I have been seeing on various lists, changing to 20W50 won't make much difference when the engine is hot. The functions of the oil are 1) provide a film that lubricates moving parts, 2) remove and suspend dirt and other contaminants, and 3) carry heat away from the moving parts. At 25-30 psi, the oil is still doing all of those things, but I suggest you keep the engine speed down somewhat below what you might do with an engine with less mileage. Mike Matthew Hayduk wrote: > Hi yall, > > It's been a while and I have just been lurking in the backround reading the > list... > > I just installed a mechanical oil pres guage on my 83 F-150 with the 300 > I6. My question realates to what is good oil pres. I use 10/40 and the > truck has about 140,000 miles on it. > > Cold idle (1100 rpms) 55-60 psi > > HOT (after 1 hour interstate drive) idle 15 psi > HOT driving 25-30 psi > > Should I be worried or do i just need 20/50? BTW, my mech temp guage is > next, so i will know how hot the engine is at these times. > > TIA for your help... > > Matthew Hayduk > mhayduk > > 94 SVT Cobra Coupe White/Black Leather #4270 of 5009 SCOA > 8.795 > - K&N FIPK > - Mac Long Tubes, Offroad X pipe Flowmaster 2 chamber > - Pro 5.0 Power Tower Shifter > - Autometer Cowl Mounted Fuel Pres Guage > - Motorsport Aluminum Driveshaft > - CEnterforce Dual Friction Clutch > - Compucar Wet Nitrous System -- 90 Shot == NEVER USED > 83 Ford Mustang LX 4 cyl car---460 project > 83 F150 XLT 300ci I6 A/T > 71 Volkswagen Bug > ?? Volkswagen Rail Buggy > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html - -- - ------------ Mike Sloane Allamuchy NJ (msloane or == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 15:59:46 EST From: FULSZBRONC Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE! Your oil pressure readings sound perfectly fine, no reason to worry nor change to a thicker oil. Any particular reason for installing an after-market oil pressure gauge? When you install your after-market temp gauge, are you going to measure the temp of the oil or the temp of the engine (coolant)? If you want realistic coolant temp readings, be sure to install the sensor according to directions. When I installed a water temp gauge on my engine a couple of years ago, it was for diagnosis purposes...I found a thermostat housing (goose neck) that was drilled and tapped to take the temperature sensor so I would know exactly when the thermostat opened. Naturally, it reads VERY hot (220 degrees+) when sitting in traffic, scaring many of my passengers into thinking I was on the verge of over-heating!! But, with a clean and efficient cooling system and a thermstatically controlled electric fan ( threw away the factory fan and shroud), the original guage in the dash never goes past the ''R'' in ''NORMAL" And yep, we're still havin' fun!! In a message dated 11/02/1999 01:32:55 PM Mountain Standard Time, mhayduk HOT (after 1 hour interstate drive) idle 15 psi HOT driving 25-30 psi >> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 16:38:22 EST From: FLR150 Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE! In a message dated 11/2/99 3:37:08 PM Eastern Standard Time, mhayduk > This is an 1/8th mile time correct? Later Wayne Foy '94 Flareside SC == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 16:45:23 -0500 From: Rich Subject: FTE 80-96 - 96 F150 302 I have a question., My 302 has 77k on it, and I just changed the plugs about 2 weeks ago, I pulled one of the plugs to look at it, and it looks to be a clean white, almost like the engine is running lean, and when i look at the exhaust pipe, the thing is clean as a bell, even when running there is no moisture in the pipe or anything. Is this normal? Not really concerned about it, just wondering for some feedback. Thanks, Rich == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 16:57:16 -0500 From: "Matt Fitzsimmons" Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Laser, - ----- Original Message ----- From: James Oxley To: Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 2:20 PM Subject: Laser, was; Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires > ken haley wrote: > > > > > is slightly affected by such angles (less than + or - 1.5 mph), > > If he is only 10 degrees off which is almost guaranteed. If he is 20, it > jumps to 4-5 MPH. 30 degrees, it jumps to 8 MPH. Higher speeds means it The steeper the angle, the lower the reading that is returned. The angle of incidence with the target must be kept to as close to 90 degrees as possible to get the highest readings. Curves on highways over the crest of a hill make the best target zones. > more off. > > but the > > laser uses computer technology to analyze the changes in the light spectrum > > emitted by the device to instantly compute and correct the readings. > > I'd like to hear that explained a little better. I don't think you ever will. Laser light is monochromatic (one colour), there is no "spectrum" as such. > > He also > > warned that the new laser detectors will not detect his beam unless he aims > > it at the hood or windshield of a vehicle. At 1 mile away the beam is only > > 1/2 inch in diameter, > > Hmmm...., the Kustom Signals Pro-laser and LTI 20-20 are 5.8 and 4.5 > feet wide respectively at 1000 feet. I'd say the beam is more like a > "highway" wide at 1 mile away. Exactly, the beams on these devices must diverge at quite a wide angle (in laser terms) otherwise the beam coming back would also be very narrow. Far too narrow in fact to strike the receiver. If there is more than one vehicle on the the road a mile away, laser readings are useless. There is no feed back system in targeting (scopes) of laser speed measuring devices, until the vehicles are within a few hundred yards you have no hope of picking one out of a crowd. Which brings us to trucks. Being so large and flat fronted, they produce the best reflected signals (as with RADAR). In testing we had dark coloured Corvettes and Cougars past by undetected (no licence plates), but a pickup truck will bounce a signal from over 500 M (1600 ft) At 1000 feet a quick moving car and a slow moving truck will probably return the speed of the truck. A method used to select only one lane of traffic is to aim the gun (looks more like a camera now) parallel to the road, no readings are returned, then turn the gun ever so slightly towards the road until there are good readings. This won't pick up anyone in the other lanes, but this is why you will see laser setups in the median of divided hyways. Best bet, if you have oversize tires, get your speedo recalibrated, or just go with the flow. Matt == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:54:55 -0600 From: Blake Malkamaki Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - OIL PRESURE! >I just installed a mechanical oil pres guage on my 83 F-150 with the 300 >I6. My question realates to what is good oil pres. I use 10/40 and the >truck has about 140,000 miles on it. Your pressure is just fine. 5 psi is enough to lubricate the engine properly. I have a diesel that barely put out 5 and has been that way for the last 40 years and runs fine. Good idea to put the mechanical gauge in as the electrical one is not always reliable. I did the same and I get about the same oil pressure as you do. Blake Little Mountain Concord, Ohio Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake "Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed." "An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...." == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:56:19 -0600 From: Blake Malkamaki Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 96 F150 302 >I have a question., My 302 has 77k on it, and I just changed the >plugs about 2 weeks ago, I pulled one of the plugs to look at it, and it >looks to be a clean white, almost like the engine is running lean, and >when i look at the exhaust pipe, the thing is clean as a bell, even when >running there is no moisture in the pipe or anything. Is this normal? >Not really concerned about it, just wondering for some feedback. >Thanks, >Rich Yes normal. These computer controlled engines run a lot leaner than the older ones. Blake Little Mountain Concord, Ohio Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake "Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed." "An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...." == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 16:03:29 PST From: "Christopher Worley" Subject: FTE 80-96 - Sort of off the subject Hey guys I have a question that is not pertaining to a Ford Truck, I own a 1987 CrissCraft Cavalier Inboard/Outboard boat. I left it set up all summer long (no time). I was going to winterize it and decided I would go ahead and crank it up. Wouldn't start. I poured gas into the carb. no help. Any Ideas. I belive this to be a GM (Blahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh) engine 3.0 litre four cylinder. I know this is off the subject of this list but I do pull it with a 1993 F-150 Supercab 351. Chris Waxahachie, TX '93 F-150 SC 351 ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 17:12:08 -0700 From: "Giddens, Scott" Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Sort of off the subject You say you pull it with a Ford, close enough for me! Remove the plugs, clean or replace them, and put them back. Drain the gas, oil, and replace it with some that doesn't probably have water condensation in it. Winterizing is very important. You should always drain the gas and the oil if possible. Later, Scott - -----Original Message----- From: Christopher Worley [SMTP:cworley76 Hey guys I have a question that is not pertaining to a Ford Truck, I own a 1987 CrissCraft Cavalier Inboard/Outboard boat. I left it set up all summer long (no time). I was going to winterize it and decided I would go ahead and crank it up. Wouldn't start. I poured gas into the carb. no help. Any Ideas. I belive this to be a GM (Blahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh) engine 3.0 litre four cylinder. I know this is off the subject of this list but I do pull it with a 1993 F-150 Supercab 351. Chris == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 19:00:30 -0600 From: Blake Malkamaki Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing >What I do is to remove one plug wire at a time and plug it into a plug >vice-gripped to a ground. Then I start the motor to listen if it runs worse >or the same. If it runs worse, the unplugged cylinder isn't the problem. Pull the wires from the distributor one wire at a time to see if there is a difference in how the engine runs. If no change -- that is the bad cylinder. Before electronic ignition you could pull them one by one by hand, but now the spark will reach out and grab you. Use some good insulated pliers. Blake Little Mountain Concord, Ohio Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake "Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed." "An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...." == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 19:06:11 -0600 From: Blake Malkamaki Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal? >My 84 F150 has three tape stripes on each side that are cracked and dried. >I've been trying to get them off with a hair dryer; but they're coming off >in tiny pieces and it's taking way too many hours. >Anybody have any tips/tricks to get these tape stripes off? > We have a sign business and we use denatured ethyl alcohol. Blake Little Mountain Concord, Ohio Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake "Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed." "An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...." == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 19:09:32 -0600 From: Blake Malkamaki Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help >I have a 1984 F-150 with the TTB front IFS axle >what all is involved in putting the Dana44 out of a >70's truck in the place of the TTB, >I already know how to get the TTB out but will the other bolt up okay >besides maybe changing the radius arm brackets and will the coil springs >bolt up?? > I think it is a great idea, but you'd be best to have the two trucks side by side as you are figuring things out. The 70s trucks used rubber radius arm C-bushings to adjust caster. These are available in the aftermarket for various corrections. Write a book about how to do this and I bet you'll get rich selling it. Blake Little Mountain Concord, Ohio Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake "Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed." "An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...." == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 16:16:59 PST From: "ken haley" Subject: Re: Laser, was; Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires >ken haley wrote: > > > > > is slightly affected by such angles (less than + or - 1.5 mph), > >If he is only 10 degrees off which is almost guaranteed. If he is 20, it >jumps to 4-5 MPH. 30 degrees, it jumps to 8 MPH. Higher speeds means it >more off. Gee, and the DEW line is this iffy about velocity. I think not. I worked on a commercial fishing vessel that had radar that could track and determine not only speed and direction, but changes in either, and follow a programed course up the intercoastal in southeast Florida, automatically adjusting steering for wind and current drift, all while the boat rocked and pitched. Not only that, but the ground speed was instantly available, even when maxed out at 30 knots. I understand the new top-of-the-line GPS autohelms can put one within 10 feet of a specified point at a specified time, and give ground speed instantaneously within a few hundredths of a km per hr., all done by computers. Considering that Patriot missiles can hit other missiles dozens of miles away, coming from a wide range of vectors at 25 000 kph, I don't think current technology has a problem with vectors. > > but the > > laser uses computer technology to analyze the changes in the light >spectrum > > emitted by the device to instantly compute and correct the readings. > > I'd like to hear that explained a little better. Hmmm??? Ever hear of "Doppler effect"? Ever hear the name "Hubble"? Yup, the telescope guy. He used "red shift" to deduce the expansion of the known universe. You can learn more about the such principles at the NASA homepage, or enroll in the quantum electrodynamics course I team teach. > >He also > > warned that the new laser detectors will not detect his beam unless he >aims > > it at the hood or windshield of a vehicle. At 1 mile away the beam is >only > > 1/2 inch in diameter, > >Hmmm...., the Kustom Signals Pro-laser and LTI 20-20 are 5.8 and 4.5 >feet wide respectively at 1000 feet. I'd say the beam is more like a >"highway" wide at 1 mile away. I do not know the exact measurement of the officer's beam, nor did I bother myself with brands and model numbers. I do know that lasers are capable of microminutes of angle accuracy, in relatively clean, thermodynamically stable air. Dust or humidity in the air, or "heat waves" coming off pavement can considerably widen a beam, as well as measurably change the speed at which the photons travel. I aimed the laser myself, and clocked several vehicles. I could actually fire the beam between 2 vehicles approaching about 3/4 mile away and get no reading. What it all boils down to is maintenance and proper use of the devices. I HAVE clocked a shed at 21 mph, but with the Little League's pitching radar. a device the local PD donated to the league years ago. The devices I used this morning were fitted with gyroscopes to detect movement that could affect the results, and automatically nullified incorrect usage. How about this: the operator must not wrap his thumb around the grip because the pulse in the thumb could nullify any readings. Yes, there is shoddy equipment out there, and shoddier operators, but there is also modern, well-maintained equipment and conscientious, well-trained operators. Think twice before asking the judge to throw out a citation for equipment calibration issues. With 4 certified devices comopared to each other on a daily basis for calibration purposes, one hasn't a chance in this town. Better yet, set a good example for your children and respect the law. If you want to go fast, take it to the track. Ken > > OX >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 19:15:54 -0600 From: Blake Malkamaki Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR >Can someone tell me if a faulty EGR valve cause white smoke to come from >the exhaust. I pulled some codes that >indicated the EGR was not full seating. >I am puzzled about the smoke. I can >understand the stumble of the engine >under a load. Could I have a blown head >gasket also? > By white smoke do you mean steam? If it is continuous, I would think you have water getting into the cylinders somehow. Probably head gasket. Did it get hot one time? That could mean cracked head. A friend just replace head gasket on 300 six due to water dripping from exhaust pipe. Blake Little Mountain Concord, Ohio Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake "Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed." "An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...." == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 19:23:23 -0600 From: Blake Malkamaki Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild >>Fellow Listers, >>Well, looks like I'm going to have to rebuild the 302 in my 93 F150. I've > >>already started tearing it apart. I'm really excited, this is the first >time I >>have taken apart a motor. By the way, I'm the guy that has no compression >in >>cylinders 7 and 8. My question is, what do I look for and what are >components >>that I should replace(worn or maybe not worn)? On top of all of that, >what can >>I do while I have it apart to increase horse power? As I said, I am a >virgin >>to rebuilds, so any and all help/suggestions will be greatly appreciated. > >>Jason Jason, As far as what to look for depends on how deeply you are going into your engine. Are you pulling the heads? If so, you might as well go all the way and have her bored and get new pistons; have your heads all checked and new valve guides and valve job. Check crank and rods and replace bearings. Go to high volume oil pump. The no compression is probably stuck rings or burned pistons on those holes. For more power you could go with a Crane Computcam. Otherwise you will have to get a reprogram chip. Or you could get a mass-air kit - then you can make bigger changes and the engine will learn to use them - things like higher lift cams, higher compression pistons, bigger valves. All these will give you more power. Blake Little Mountain Concord, Ohio Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake "Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed." "An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...." == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 16:25:57 PST From: "ken haley" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing Have you checked the toubleshooting codes from the computer? Many on this list really are savvy about that stuff. I understand that it can be done with a VOM from Walmart. Personally, I have a 2.3 Mustang with EFI, and a 460 Bronco with Edelbrock Pro-jection. The Mustang runs fine so I haven't had to learn that stuff, yet. The Pro-jection interfaces with my laptop for tuning and trouble shooting, and I get fault messages in words on the screen, not secret spy codes like Ford. DO NOT PULL PLUGWIRES OFF A RUNNING ENGINE. Clamp an extra plug to a good ground, hook the plugwire to it. However, I'm sure doing so would really mess with the computer, so you may not learn anything, anyway. Ken > >Thanks for your response, Ken, > >It's EFI. Timing light approach should work still, right? Funny you should >mention a carb... It sounds a little like a VW Beetle I used to have would >sound when the carb on it was out of adjustment (pretty much all the time). >It started doing this last Thursday somewhere on the highway between where >I work and where I take a class... somewhere along 30 miles of ~70 mph >driving. It was a pretty cool day (~68), and the engine wasn't hot. Another >clue might be that if, while I'm sitting in it with it in Park, I rock the >accelerator in and out a little bit, it sputters, but won't backfire. > >I don't know if I'd be comfortable pulling plug wires while running the >engine, or starting it without plug wires plugged in... But I could try. >There are some kinds of work on a car/truck that I don't have enough >experience with to be confident that I'm not going to make things worse. > >I had an appointment to take it in on Thursday, but I would rather do it >myself and learn. > >Thanks, > >Andy > >p.s. If it stays missing I might have to put up signs and offer a reward... >p.p.s. I do have a manual (Chiltons), and it's dirty and oily, but the >manuals aren't a good source of info for trouble shooting. > > > >At 10:55 AM 11/2/99 -0800, you wrote: >>Andy, >> >>Your F250 has developed a miss? Really? Is she cute? If so, will she >>develop a cute miss for me???? >> >>If a yiming light hooked up to particular plug wires doesn't flash on one >>but does on the other , you are really lucky. The problem is either that >>plug wire, plug, or distributor cap is bad. What a great way to save >>troubleshooting time, when it works. >> >>What I do is to remove one plug wire at a time and plug it into a plug >>vice-gripped to a ground. Then I start the motor to listen if it runs >>worse or the same. If it runs worse, the unplugged cylinder isn't the >>problem. >> >>If the test plug has a good spark, then it's a safe bet the plug is bad or >>that cylinder has lost compression. (Assuming a carb.) >> >>I have a special set of plug wire pliers for pulling wires while the >>engine is running, but I'm afraid that might damage an electronic ignition >>these days. When you pulled a running cylinder, the engine would miss >>worse. A dead miss wouldn't affect the way the engine ran when it was >>pulled. >> >>Of course, if you are running all the computerized stuff, none of this >>works. >> >>Ken > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 16:32:53 PST From: "ken haley" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters Les, I first discovered the air/pressure storage concept used in "pressure tanks" for well pumps. I used the concept succesfully in a drag class that was restricted to stock fuel pumps. I've also used an adaptation of the concept to bleed brakes and flush air conditioners. Now you tell me such devices are already in use for turbo bearings? Well, it's worth thinking about. As for is it worth the expense, well, probably not--just more fittings to leak, electric devices to break, and more work to keep clean. Ken ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 19:35:43 -0500 From: flagship Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1989 F-150 Tailgate I seem to remember someone looking for a tailgate for an F-150 recently. If they're still looking, there is one currently on ebay. Item # is 189594619. Currently at 50 bucks with reserve not met. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 16:54:52 PST From: "ken haley" Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Sort of off the subject NEVER let steel oil pans or fuel tanks sit empty. Condensation will corrode them out in no time. To properly set up any gasoline engine for storage: 1) Add the correct amount of fuel preservative to the tank. 2) Run the engine 10 or 15 minutes to distribute the fuel preservative. If carberated: 3) Drain the fuel tank. 4) Run the carb dry (but never run fuel injection dry). 5) Add fuel preservative to the tank. 6) Fill the tank to the top. 7) Close all vents. 8) Change the oil and filter. 9) Do not run the engine after the oil change. 10) Store the battery in a dry, well-ventilated place. 11) Check battery water monthly and top off charge. 12) Set vehicle frame on stands with tires off the ground. To take the vehicle out of storage: 1) Fill tires. 2) Reinstall battery. 3) Change oil and filter. 4) Turn the key and drive away. 5) Within a week or so change trans, case, axle fluids and lubricants, repack front bearings, and check coolant for level of protection. Ken ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 17:14:15 -0800 From: "Kevin Crandall" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing Andy, start by pulling a wire off of the plug and start it up. If the engine runs bad, put the wire back and try another, until you find one that don't make any difference then you found the bad plug or plug wire. By the way be sure to shut the engine off when disconnecting and reconnecting plug wires. :-) I suppose that would be a good way to check the wire, good luck Kevin - ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Norris To: Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 9:08 AM Subject: FTE 80-96 - Missing > > Hello all, > > My '89 F250 has developed a miss, and I'm not sure what the steps to check > are. First of all, what is the easiest way to determine which plug isn't > firing? Timing light? > > I replaced the plugs and wires ~1000 miles ago. What's next? Distributor? Coil? > > Any and all help is greatly appreciated. > > Andy Norris > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 17:17:32 PST From: "ken haley" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Front axle help Spend the money for polyurethane bushings--a bit more "feel" and noise to the steering and ride, but much improved handling. My son recently built a lowered 2WD Bronco so his parapalegic sweetie (victim of a drunk driver) will be able to get in easily when they are old enough to drive, in about a year and a half. We bent and welded a tube front axle with the 70s style eccentrics and positioning hardware, and used early Econoline spindles with 2WD rotors and calipers hung on using custom brackets and some special order bearings. One coil was clamped on the front springs and the rear axle was flipped, now residing on top of the spring. It's nice to have a brother-in-law who allows free access to his tool and die shop after hours, and a sister who sells bearings for a living. Browsing the local autoparts emporium yielded shorter Gabriel Red Riders front and rear that fit perfectly. Lord only knows what they are for. The damping characteristics are a bit stiff, but the sucker corners really well. Stock front and rear sway bars were retained, but the rear end links were swapped for homemade shorter versions. Polyurethane bushings are used throughout. Net: the Bronco rides about like a 79 F150 I had years ago, but with a bit more chop from the shorter wheelbase and a lot less body roll. The truck sits 2-3 inches lower than an F150 2WD, but still has enough clearnce that speedbumps are not a problem. And Heather can get in and out unassisted. (She is getting around fairly well with leg braces and crutches, now. Determined to shed both within a year and return to competitive cheerleading and gymnastics.) ken ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 17:25:50 -0800 From: "John Wheeler" Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys. Can anyone help? My fuel pumps keep running after I shut off ignition. Also on and off problem with front tank. Fuel starvation. Perhaps a explanation of how system is controlled. Thank You == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 20:37:04 -0600 From: Blake Malkamaki Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Missing >DO NOT PULL PLUGWIRES OFF A RUNNING ENGINE. Clamp an extra plug to a good >ground, hook the plugwire to it. However, I'm sure doing so would really >mess with the computer, so you may not learn anything, anyway. It will not hurt to pull the wires out of the distributor when it is running. May zap YOU though. Don't pull the wires off the plugs as you will have a live wire looking for a place to ground to and it may zap you or another wire someplace. Blake Little Mountain Concord, Ohio Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake "Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed." "An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...." == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 20:42:14 EST From: SlamedF150 Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys. mite have possible broken wires in your fuel pump relays. i had one that was broken off inside the protective cover. the relays are on the side of air box == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 20:47:38 EST From: SlamedF150 Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - tape stripe removal? Go to your local body shop supplier and ask for an eraser wheel. It is made out of stuff that greatly resembles and pencil eraser...... put on a drill and go at it == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 20:55:18 EST From: SlamedF150 Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filthy throttle body and intake man man i hope u didn't really use carb cleaner on that. carb cleaner eats away at the protective covering on trottle bodies. u need to use throttle body cleaner insted == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 21:03:13 -0500 From: "Matt Fitzsimmons" Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys. Sonds like the fuel pump relay is stuck (welded) shut. I'm not sure where the relay is on your truck, but it's probably due for replacement. Starvation usually indicates a clogged filter, but it only happens on the front tank? Maybe the pickup screen in the tank is clogged. Matt - ----- Original Message ----- From: John Wheeler To: Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 8:25 PM Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys. > Can anyone help? My fuel pumps keep running after I shut off ignition. > Also on and off problem with front tank. Fuel starvation. Perhaps a > explanation of how system is controlled. Thank You > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 21:37:28 -0600 From: Jim Cannon Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys. Since they are IN TANK pumps, perhaps the front pump is dead/dieing. At 21:03 02/11/99 -0500, you wrote: >Sounds like the fuel pump relay is stuck (welded) shut. I'm not sure where >the relay is on your truck, but it's probably due for replacement. > >Starvation usually indicates a clogged filter, but it only happens on the >front tank? Maybe the pickup screen in the tank is clogged. > > >Matt >----- Original Message ----- >From: John Wheeler >To: >Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 8:25 PM >Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1991 f-150 fuel sys. > > >> Can anyone help? My fuel pumps keep running after I shut off ignition. >> Also on and off problem with front tank. Fuel starvation. Perhaps a >> explanation of how system is controlled. Thank You >> >> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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