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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #306
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80-96-list-digest Monday, November 1 1999 Volume 03 : Number 306



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild
RE: FTE 80-96 - Vacuum schematics
FTE 80-96 - RE: FRam Filters-priming
FTE 80-96 - Hard to get at oil filters
FTE 80-96 - Ease of Maintainance, one vs another
RE: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires
RE: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires//Speedo Calibration
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: FRam Filters-priming
Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Filters-priming
RE: FTE 80-96 - Oil Filters-priming
Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Filters-priming
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: FRam Filters-priming
Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Filters-priming
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: FRam Filters-priming
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: FTE 80-96:mazda 5spb
FTE 80-96 - Fram Oil Filters
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild
RE: FTE 80-96 - Vacuum schematics
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires
FTE 80-96 - EGR

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 08:12:04 -0600
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild

Ken,
Go to http://www.ford-trucks.com/contact/index.php3
select subject: Technical Articles
paste your "Tips" in the comments box

Smeck

- ----- Original Message -----
From: ken haley
To:
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 1999 9:30 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild


> I'll be happy to, Smeck, if someone will tell me how.
>
> Ken
>
> ______________________________________________________
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 11:33 -0600
From: Jason D Odor
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild

Hey Ken,
I went home yesterday and started labeling everything I had already taken off,
very good advise. I just hope at the end of the project I can still read all
of the labels.

Thanks
Jason




eeschm ee.lsu.edu on 10/30/99 08:58:35 AM
Please respond to 80-96-list ford-trucks.com JCI
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com JCI
cc: (bcc: Jason D Odor/TAYMI/ASG/Johnson_Controls)
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild

Hey Ken, I think you otta send this in to Ken P. to post in the Tech
Articles.
My .02
Smeck

- ----- Original Message -----
From: ken haley
To:
Sent: Friday, October 29, 1999 8:58 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild


> A bit of advice for those without years of experience pulling and
> overhauling motors:
>
> You will need masking tape, a pen with permanent ink, spiral notebook,
> zip-top sandwich bags.
>
> First, clean the engine thoroughly.
>
> Assume you can't remember anything.
>
> Label both ends of every hose, wire, cable, and linkage. Letters in
> indelible ink on masking tape works well. When you get to "Z", start over
> with "AA, BB, CC...." Also label the fitting, stud, bracket, etc. from
which
> the hose, wire, cable, or linkage was removed. This way you know where
> everything goes back.
>
> List everything you disassemble in the notebook, in order of disassembly.
> Note the identification codes you assigned in the previous step just in
case
> a tag becomes unreadable. Draw pictures of evrything before you take it
> apart. Polaroid cameras work wonderfully here. If you have 2 different
> length bolts holding something on, note on the picture what bolt goes
where.
> LABEL EVERYTHING. How you solved the inevitable problems with reaching
> hidden hardware and lining up 7 things at once should be recorded in the
> notebook.
>
> As each component is removed, clean everything and place that component's
> hardware and associated small parts in a zip-top bag and label the bag. Be
> sure to note the label in the spiral notebook. Some parts need to go back
in
> the same place they came from, like rockers and pushrods. I use a 2X8
board
> with nails driven through and set rocker arms over the nails. Holes
drilled
> part way through then board in front of each nail store the corresponding
> pushrod and lifter. Rod and main bearings go in individual zip-top bags
with
> their corresponding caps and bolts.
>
> Shelve the parts and hardware in the order they were removed. I have 2 old
> house doors on concrete blocks that will hold everything except the engine
> block, in order. The doors are wide enough that parts lined up against the
> wall are not in the way of parts being worked on at the moment. If a
gasket
> is destroyed during disassemby, note the need for a new one in the
notebook.
> Leaving out gaskets is a common occurance.
>
> Thusly organized, you can work your way down the tables, reworking some
> components, selecting others for a trip to the machine shop. While waiting
> for your re-machined parts to be done, why not install brushes in the
> alternator and starter and rebuild the carb just to prevent any future
> problems? A can or 2 of engine paint really is worth the cost. Replace all
> the vacuum lines as a matter of course, especially if the truck is over 5
> years old.
>
> As you collect replacement parts, carefully match them with the old parts
to
> make sure you have the right ones. Then label the new parts just as the
old
> parts are labeled. Do not try to transfer labels from the old parts to the
> new. I have a shelf above my tables to store the old parts on when new
parts
> take their places on the table. New parts are kept in their original
> packages until time to reassemble.
>
> Oil, coolant, assembly lube, gasket sealers, Loc-Tite, etc., all need to
be
> one the tables. I've seen people start rebuilt engines without oil and/or
> coolant. It is easy to overlook something when the project is nearing
> completion and the adrenalin kicks in.
>
> Assembly is just working backwards through your notebook and down the
> tables. The time you use keeping everything recorded, labeled, and
organized
> will more than be made up by the time you save digging through piles of
> parts looking for that certain bolt, if you even remember you need a
certain
> bolt. All your wires, cables, hoses, brckets, etc., will be hooked up
> correctly, possibly saving hours or even days of trying to troubleshoot a
> misplaced vacuum line.
>
> Once the truck is running properly, throw away all the old parts and clean
> up your work area.
>
> Ken
>
> ______________________________________________________
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 10:22:13 -0600
From: "Moore, Jimmy"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Vacuum schematics

Yes, unfortunately it is missing. I went to the local FORD dealer and they
told me they only go back to 1987. I went to the local Obsolete Ford Parts,
and they only go UP to 1977. I'm stuck in the middle.
I believe the 1980 would suffice.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Cannon [mailto:jcannon.ne79 gtalumni.org]
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 1999 5:38 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Vacuum schematics


At 13:54 30/10/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Does anyone have the vacuum schematics for a 1981 F-150 with a 300 straight
>six?

I have the 1980, if no one comes along with the 1981. You can probably
figure out the differences. I assume underhood sticker is missing...


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 11:44:03 -0500
From: "Theodore D. Mills"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: FRam Filters-priming

For what it's worth...

The only vehicle I have where filling the filter with oil before screwing
it on will not make a huge mess is my 2.8L 85 Ranger....the filter is
vertical.

On my wife's 94 Taurus 3.8L, it's impossible to even get the old one off
with out making a mess. And don't even get me started about the fun you
have if the old one is on really tight!

On the other vehicles I work on regularly, (a couple of 5.0's, a 4.0 and a
7.5)the filters are mounted at varing angles.

What I have started doing is cranking the engine over with the starter
until oil pressure comes up.
This usually is done with a remote starter switch. On the Taurus, since the
solenoid is a b***h to get at, I just pull the coil wire off and ground it,
then crank the engine over with the key until the light goes out.

Usually this takes only 30 to 45 seconds of cranking.

I'd think that cranking is a whole lot easier on bearings etc, than running
the engine.


Ted
84 Mustang GT (in pieces)
85 Ranger 2WD 2.8L
91 F250 4X4X460
94 Taurus LX wagon 3.8L


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 09:21:11 -0800
From: Joan and Walt Posluszny
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hard to get at oil filters

When you've got a tough filter location...move it. You do not have to live
with it. On my 85 the filter location was a b*tch. Did that once, went out
a bought a double remote oil filter housing. Mounted the filters so that I
can change them standing up and now the filters [I bought a double but you
can get just one] are straight up and I can fill them both to the top and
not spill a drop. Yes, it takes a few seconds for that 300 psi[burst
strength] Goodyear hose to fill up and return back but both of those filters
are chock full of oil so it's not that bad. Like I said before... if you
don't like it, move it. You've love it after that. Several folks make
these kits and they are relatively cheap, reliable [no moving parts] and
easy to install. Have fun. Walt

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 14:50:27 -0600 (CST)
From: "Mike Persell"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Ease of Maintainance, one vs another

On Sun, 31 Oct 1999 11:44:03 -0500, Theodore D. Mills wrote:
>The only vehicle I have where filling the filter with oil before screwing
>it on will not make a huge mess is my 2.8L 85 Ranger....the filter is
>vertical.

Makes me really appreciate the 2wd 85 F150 302. When I check the seal
and clean out the Oberg I have plenty of space.

>
>On my wife's 94 Taurus 3.8L, it's impossible to even get the old one off
>with out making a mess. And don't even get me started about the fun you
>have if the old one is on really tight!
>

This really brings up a good point about choosing a vehicle if you're going
to do maintainance yourself. Something that I have wondered about is how
much essential maintainance is left undone because its such pain to get done
due to design. The F series have been very forgiving in placement of key parts
that require regular care.

Mike



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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 18:17:24 -0300
From: "RODERICK"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires

IF you want to know how far off your speedo is you can find out on the
tire/gear calculator page
www.4lo.com
here you can find thet out!
I have 33 on my 94 f150 and the speedo is about 20% off
- ----- Original Message -----
From: ken haley
To:
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 1999 12:26 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires


> Michael wroteL:
>
> >I would like to know what the biggest tire is that I can put
> on my 96
> >F150 4x4. It has the 235's now. I just don't want my speedo to
> be off to
> >far
>
> It doesn't matter how wide the tire is, it is the rolling radius (ground
to
> center of the wheel bearing) that affects your speedometer reading.
>
> Exceptionally wide tires may not affect the speedometer, but may have
> interference problems. Not enough back spacing = the fenders eat your
tires
> + wheel bearings wear prematurely. Too much back spacing and the tire
scuffs
> its sidewall on the suspension and/or fram components.
>
> It is relatively simple to select and install speedometer drives of
various
> ratios. When selecting a tire diameter, consider whether or not your truck
> has the correct gear ratio for a particular diameter. Generally, I've had
> the best driveability/performance/economy compromise when the engine turns
> at or slightly below its peak torque RPM at the speeds I normally operate
> the vehicle.
>
> Ken
>
> ______________________________________________________
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 15:43:46 -0600
From: "Webdoc"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires

I know someone recently posted the procedure for calibrating the speedo on
the computer controlled cluster. If anyone kept it, would you be so kind as
to repost it?

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-80-96-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of RODERICK
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 1999 3:17 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires


IF you want to know how far off your speedo is you can find out on the
tire/gear calculator page
www.4lo.com
here you can find thet out!
I have 33 on my 94 f150 and the speedo is about 20% off
- ----- Original Message -----
From: ken haley
To:
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 1999 12:26 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires


> Michael wroteL:
>
> >I would like to know what the biggest tire is that I can put
> on my 96
> >F150 4x4. It has the 235's now. I just don't want my speedo to
> be off to
> >far
>
> It doesn't matter how wide the tire is, it is the rolling radius (ground
to
> center of the wheel bearing) that affects your speedometer reading.
>
> Exceptionally wide tires may not affect the speedometer, but may have
> interference problems. Not enough back spacing = the fenders eat your
tires
> + wheel bearings wear prematurely. Too much back spacing and the tire
scuffs
> its sidewall on the suspension and/or fram components.
>
> It is relatively simple to select and install speedometer drives of
various
> ratios. When selecting a tire diameter, consider whether or not your truck
> has the correct gear ratio for a particular diameter. Generally, I've had
> the best driveability/performance/economy compromise when the engine turns
> at or slightly below its peak torque RPM at the speeds I normally operate
> the vehicle.
>
> Ken
>
> ______________________________________________________
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 17:38:37 EST
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires//Speedo Calibration

In a message dated 10/31/1999 4:47:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
webdoc arkansas.net writes:


the computer controlled cluster. If anyone kept it, would you be so kind as
to repost it?
>>


80-96 - Speedometer Calibration FOUND IT
Start with 20186, divide by actual tire size in inches. Divide again by 66.66
Example: 20186/34.5=585.1/66.66=8.78
Thus for 34.5 inch tires, the calibration is 878
To set the calibration, ground the single wire connector under the glove
box, hold in reset button on trip meter and turn ignition to ON. From here
use Select to get proper calibration and press reset to store
This can ONLY be done 6 times before you have to replace the module. Actual
tire size is key, Not all 33's actually measure 33 inches. Good luck.


Joe
Lost in Jersey
92 F-150 4x4 Nite 302/AOD 33BFG/MT LSD44 8.8Auburn K&N Dynomax Accell
Splitfire Hella Kenwood
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 18:03:35 EST
From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: FRam Filters-priming

In a message dated 10/31/99 9:49:35 AM Mountain Standard Time,
n3kwq martnet.com writes:
bearings etc, than running the engine. >>

Cranking the engine for 30-45 seconds is more damaging than just starting the
engine and letting it idle for 6 or 7 seconds waiting for the oil pressure to
come up. Even if you can only get a couple of ounces of oil in the filter
before you spin it on, it is preferable to turning over a dry oiling system.
As we all well know, the worst wear on our engines occur every time we
turn the key, ( whether the blasted thing starts or not! )
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 17:21:27 -0600
From: "Ed Mount"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Filters-priming

Ted,
Good idea, removing the coil wire. I have played this silly game of trying
to crank the engine without letting it get started, shutting the ignition
off immediately if it does start, then trying again. Get the picture?
Pretty dumb, and very aggravating when the engine catches and immediately
roars up to 100,000 rpm before I can shut it down. Hmmm, remove the coil
wire, huh? What will they think of next.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Theodore D. Mills
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, October 31, 1999 10:53 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: FRam Filters-priming


|For what it's worth...
|
|The only vehicle I have where filling the filter with oil before screwing
|it on will not make a huge mess is my 2.8L 85 Ranger....the filter is
|vertical.
|
|On my wife's 94 Taurus 3.8L, it's impossible to even get the old one off
|with out making a mess. And don't even get me started about the fun you
|have if the old one is on really tight!
|
|On the other vehicles I work on regularly, (a couple of 5.0's, a 4.0 and a
|7.5)the filters are mounted at varing angles.
|
|What I have started doing is cranking the engine over with the starter
|until oil pressure comes up.
|This usually is done with a remote starter switch. On the Taurus, since the
|solenoid is a b***h to get at, I just pull the coil wire off and ground it,
|then crank the engine over with the key until the light goes out.
|
|Usually this takes only 30 to 45 seconds of cranking.
|
|I'd think that cranking is a whole lot easier on bearings etc, than running
|the engine.
|
|
|Ted
|84 Mustang GT (in pieces)
|85 Ranger 2WD 2.8L
|91 F250 4X4X460
|94 Taurus LX wagon 3.8L
|
|
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|

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 19:17:31 -0600
From: "Moore, Jimmy"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Oil Filters-priming

When I come to a stop at a red light, my lights go dim, and the radio cuts
out. The idle gets a little rough. I tried adjusting the carb, but no
adjustment helped, it didn't even affect the idle at all. Any suggestions?
Could it be the alt?

Thanks,
Jim

1981 Ford F-150 Long Bed, 300 I 6, automatic
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 17:37:45 -0800
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Filters-priming

Check and make sure your choke is opening all the way when the engine is
warmed up.

Rade Spasojevic -- rspasoje mindspring.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.2bigbroncos.org/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=194
- -Rubicon Tested-
- -----Original Message-----
From: Moore, Jimmy
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Sunday, October 31, 1999 5:18 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Oil Filters-priming


>
>When I come to a stop at a red light, my lights go dim, and the radio cuts
>out. The idle gets a little rough. I tried adjusting the carb, but no
>adjustment helped, it didn't even affect the idle at all. Any suggestions?
>Could it be the alt?
>
>Thanks,
>Jim
>
>1981 Ford F-150 Long Bed, 300 I 6, automatic
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 17:41:22 -0800
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: FRam Filters-priming

I would have to agree that cranking the engien over for 30 seconds is an bad
idea. The engine doesn't crank very fast and as a result the oil pump drive
isn't turning very fast either. I would say that it would be MUCH less wear
to crank the engine two seconds until it starts and the oil pump starts
running at a normal speed, than to crank it for such a long time.

Rade Spasojevic -- rspasoje mindspring.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.2bigbroncos.org/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=194
- -Rubicon Tested-
- -----Original Message-----
From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, October 31, 1999 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: FRam Filters-priming


>In a message dated 10/31/99 9:49:35 AM Mountain Standard Time,
>n3kwq martnet.com writes:
on
>bearings etc, than running the engine. >>
>
>Cranking the engine for 30-45 seconds is more damaging than just starting
the
>engine and letting it idle for 6 or 7 seconds waiting for the oil pressure
to
>come up. Even if you can only get a couple of ounces of oil in the filter
>before you spin it on, it is preferable to turning over a dry oiling
system.
>As we all well know, the worst wear on our engines occur every time we
> turn the key, ( whether the blasted thing starts or not! )
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 17:42:06 -0800
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Filters-priming

Yep, what does the volt gauge say?

Bob


"Moore, Jimmy" wrote:

> When I come to a stop at a red light, my lights go dim, and the radio cuts
> out. The idle gets a little rough. I tried adjusting the carb, but no
> adjustment helped, it didn't even affect the idle at all. Any suggestions?
> Could it be the alt?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
>
> 1981 Ford F-150 Long Bed, 300 I 6, automatic
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 21:20:42 -0600 (CST)
From: "Mike Persell"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: FRam Filters-priming

On Sun, 31 Oct 1999 17:41:22 -0800, Radoje Spasojevic wrote:
>I would have to agree that cranking the engien over for 30 seconds is an bad
>idea. The engine doesn't crank very fast and as a result the oil pump drive
>isn't turning very fast either. I would say that it would be MUCH less wear
>to crank the engine two seconds until it starts and the oil pump starts
>running at a normal speed, than to crank it for such a long time.

Long cranking is bad for the cams...dry start up is bad for all parts...

Take your choice.

Mike

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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 21:39:59 -0500
From: "Matt Fitzsimmons"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: FTE 80-96:mazda 5spb

Regretably, less than any engine Ford bolted them to.


- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Friday, October 29, 1999 9:46 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: FTE 80-96:mazda 5spb


> does any one know how much horsepower or tourqe a '87 model mazda 5 spd
can
> take
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 18:54:02 -0800
From: Mike Madden
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fram Oil Filters

Probably about 6-8 years ago Consumer Reports tested
oil filters and Fram was (one of?) the best. Later there was some
rumors on the internet about Fram oil filters being lousy,
including a guy who cut some filters open, but I dismissed
them. Then I had some wierd things happen to the oil pressure
on my 1988 f-250 460 engine- the gage started to take forever to
come up after cold start, but only intermittently. I never heard
any of the tell tale lifter clatter, so I believed it to be a gage problem.
However, after the next oil change, using a motorcraft filter- $2.77 at
Walmart- No more pressure problem. Unfortunately, by the time
I figured it out, the old filter was long since trashed, so no proof but---
FWIW.
mike madden
morgan hill, ca

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 18:59:34 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild

Smeck,

It is done,

Ken

>Ken,
>Go to http://www.ford-trucks.com/contact/index.php3
>select subject: Technical Articles
>paste your "Tips" in the comments box
>
>Smeck
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: ken haley
>To:
>Sent: Saturday, October 30, 1999 9:30 PM
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild
>
>
> > I'll be happy to, Smeck, if someone will tell me how.
> >
> > Ken
> >
> > ______________________________________________________
> > > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

______________________________________________________
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 19:02:52 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Vacuum schematics

Try your local auto parts recycling center. You might have to buy the upper
radiator support, or maybe a wreck can give you a photo opportunity. Just
walk up to someone with a cherry 81 and ask if you can make a drawing. There
is more than one way to whip a Dodge.

Ken

______________________________________________________
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 19:08:31 PST
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild

That's why you need a notebook, too, with drawings, pictures, and notes.
Labels often geat dirty or get knocked off. Treat them as diamonds, lose one
and you spend hours with shematics.

Ken

______________________________________________________
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 22:48:15 -0500
From: "Troy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires

On 30 Oct 99, at 20:28, ken haley wrote:

>Around here every little town has a "Your Speed is:...." thing to make you
>feel guilty. They sure are handy for checking speedo accuracy.

I don't know. I have spoken with a few folks that I know from the ....


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