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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #305
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80-96-list-digest Sunday, October 31 1999 Volume 03 : Number 305



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires
Re: FTE 80-96 - Hard starting, Loping idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild
Re: FTE 80-96 -Clutch retaining clip TSB
Re: FTE 80-96 -Clutch retaining clip TSB
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters
RE: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires
RE: FTE 80-96 - Vacuum schematics
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: 96 f150 dash
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters
Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters
Re: FTE 80-96 - Filter access - was Fram
RE: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild
RE: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters
FTE 80-96 - Happy Halloween!

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 08:57:18 -0400
From: Martin Horne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires

I have 33 12.5's on my Bronco and they only rub at full lock in reverse
(can anyone explain this?) My speedo is off 10% so I have to stick at 50mph
indicated to stay legal(ish) in a 55 zone. I checked this by timing myself
between those handy little mile markers in the interstate.

Don't forget your odometer will be out as well, so your perception of gas
mileage with the new tires will not be good unless you remember the 10%.




At 11:49 PM 10/29/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I would like to know what the biggest tire is that I can put on my 96
>F150 4x4. It has the 235's now. I just don't want my speedo to be off to
>far
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Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 09:03:03 -0400
From: Martin Horne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Hard starting, Loping idle

I recently replaced a TPS on a friends '95 when the computer started
reporting codes. I sanity checked by testing resistance with a DVM on the
unplugged TPS, about 750 ohms at idle rising to around 4K at WOT as I
recall. When I tested the unit on the truck after it had been running it
was all messed up. Next day (cold) it was fine. Turned out the heat when
the engine warmed up was upsetting the TPS. BTW, it's a $41 part at Pep Boys.


At 08:38 PM 10/28/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I replaced the EGR position sensor after getting some codes about EGR
>flow etc. This has not fixed either problem.. I suspect the TPS but
>get no codes that indicate this may be the problem. I don't want to
>guess with $50.00 plus parts but that's my next guess. Any one have a
>better idea???
>
>Emil
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 08:34:12 -0500
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild

Hey Ken, I think you otta send this in to Ken P. to post in the Tech
Articles.
My .02
Smeck

- ----- Original Message -----
From: ken haley
To:
Sent: Friday, October 29, 1999 8:58 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild


> A bit of advice for those without years of experience pulling and
> overhauling motors:
>
> You will need masking tape, a pen with permanent ink, spiral notebook,
> zip-top sandwich bags.
>
> First, clean the engine thoroughly.
>
> Assume you can't remember anything.
>
> Label both ends of every hose, wire, cable, and linkage. Letters in
> indelible ink on masking tape works well. When you get to "Z", start over
> with "AA, BB, CC...." Also label the fitting, stud, bracket, etc. from
which
> the hose, wire, cable, or linkage was removed. This way you know where
> everything goes back.
>
> List everything you disassemble in the notebook, in order of disassembly.
> Note the identification codes you assigned in the previous step just in
case
> a tag becomes unreadable. Draw pictures of evrything before you take it
> apart. Polaroid cameras work wonderfully here. If you have 2 different
> length bolts holding something on, note on the picture what bolt goes
where.
> LABEL EVERYTHING. How you solved the inevitable problems with reaching
> hidden hardware and lining up 7 things at once should be recorded in the
> notebook.
>
> As each component is removed, clean everything and place that component's
> hardware and associated small parts in a zip-top bag and label the bag. Be
> sure to note the label in the spiral notebook. Some parts need to go back
in
> the same place they came from, like rockers and pushrods. I use a 2X8
board
> with nails driven through and set rocker arms over the nails. Holes
drilled
> part way through then board in front of each nail store the corresponding
> pushrod and lifter. Rod and main bearings go in individual zip-top bags
with
> their corresponding caps and bolts.
>
> Shelve the parts and hardware in the order they were removed. I have 2 old
> house doors on concrete blocks that will hold everything except the engine
> block, in order. The doors are wide enough that parts lined up against the
> wall are not in the way of parts being worked on at the moment. If a
gasket
> is destroyed during disassemby, note the need for a new one in the
notebook.
> Leaving out gaskets is a common occurance.
>
> Thusly organized, you can work your way down the tables, reworking some
> components, selecting others for a trip to the machine shop. While waiting
> for your re-machined parts to be done, why not install brushes in the
> alternator and starter and rebuild the carb just to prevent any future
> problems? A can or 2 of engine paint really is worth the cost. Replace all
> the vacuum lines as a matter of course, especially if the truck is over 5
> years old.
>
> As you collect replacement parts, carefully match them with the old parts
to
> make sure you have the right ones. Then label the new parts just as the
old
> parts are labeled. Do not try to transfer labels from the old parts to the
> new. I have a shelf above my tables to store the old parts on when new
parts
> take their places on the table. New parts are kept in their original
> packages until time to reassemble.
>
> Oil, coolant, assembly lube, gasket sealers, Loc-Tite, etc., all need to
be
> one the tables. I've seen people start rebuilt engines without oil and/or
> coolant. It is easy to overlook something when the project is nearing
> completion and the adrenalin kicks in.
>
> Assembly is just working backwards through your notebook and down the
> tables. The time you use keeping everything recorded, labeled, and
organized
> will more than be made up by the time you save digging through piles of
> parts looking for that certain bolt, if you even remember you need a
certain
> bolt. All your wires, cables, hoses, brckets, etc., will be hooked up
> correctly, possibly saving hours or even days of trying to troubleshoot a
> misplaced vacuum line.
>
> Once the truck is running properly, throw away all the old parts and clean
> up your work area.
>
> Ken
>
> ______________________________________________________
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>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 11:20:41 -0400
From: "YETI"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 -Clutch retaining clip TSB

I have a 95 F-150 I-6 with 5 spd. The reatining clip on the clutch broke and
I ended up dead in the middle of the highway. Anyway I know there is a TSB
on this as Ford knows there is a problem. My question is does Ford have to
replace this part free of charge? I was out of town in the middle of no
where when it broke the first time and I had to have it towed about 60 miles
and it was fixed but not by Ford and now it has broken again! Any input
would be greatly appreciated. I just am not sure what Ford's
responsibilities are on a TSB.

Thanks,
Yeti


- ----- Original Message -----
From: Martin Horne
To:
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 1999 9:03 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Hard starting, Loping idle


> I recently replaced a TPS on a friends '95 when the computer started
> reporting codes. I sanity checked by testing resistance with a DVM on the
> unplugged TPS, about 750 ohms at idle rising to around 4K at WOT as I
> recall. When I tested the unit on the truck after it had been running it
> was all messed up. Next day (cold) it was fine. Turned out the heat when
> the engine warmed up was upsetting the TPS. BTW, it's a $41 part at Pep
Boys.
>
>
> At 08:38 PM 10/28/99 -0400, you wrote:
> >I replaced the EGR position sensor after getting some codes about EGR
> >flow etc. This has not fixed either problem.. I suspect the TPS but
> >get no codes that indicate this may be the problem. I don't want to
> >guess with $50.00 plus parts but that's my next guess. Any one have a
> >better idea???
> >
> >Emil
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 12:07:46 EDT
From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 -Clutch retaining clip TSB

If it were a recall, Ford would replace it for free, but a TSB is just THAT:
a Technical Service Bulletin. If you are out of warranty, repairs are on
your dime. Sucks, huh... when a problem has been identified but the
manufacturer has no legal obligation to do anything about it? It takes a lot
of pressure from the government and consumers to get a TSB upgraded to a full
blown ''recall'' (which would be repaired w/o cost to consumer)

In a message dated 10/30/99 9:22:55 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
yeti13 PRODIGY.NET writes:


responsibilities are on a TSB.

Thanks,
Yeti >>
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 11:43:58 -0700
From: "Mark Behling"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters

Hi Ed,

Don't know if this is going to help answer your question, but the filter I use is
the OEM Ford oil filter. I found that when I used the Fram unit. The oil pressure took
significantly longer time for the to come up, versus using the OEM unit. When I
examined the check valves on both filters, the one on OEM unit appeared to be more
substantial and higher quality than the valve on the Fram.
Another trick I do when changing oil is to prime the filter, which is common
practice on larger industrial engines. This is done by turning the filter upside down
and filling it with oil before installing. It is amazing to see how much oil the filter
will soak up, by watching the level drop as you fill the filter.
Basically the way I see it, the sooner the oil pressure comes up on initial as well
as continued startups the better.


Mark
San Diego, CA
'96 F150 I6 5sp




>Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 08:27:06 -0500
>From: "Ed Mount"
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters
>
> Too bad. I find a good thing and stick with it for years, only to find the
>company has suckered me and lots of others by cheapening the product for its
>own profit. Seems to be the way the world is going, everyone is looking for
>the big bucks, and forget about quality and integrity.
>
>It looks like Fram was one of those quality companies who got bought out for
>their good name, then the good name was taken advantage of. It seems in the
>business world, this tactic is called smart marketing, and the people who
>practice it are considered good businessmen and are highly praised. What is
>the current filter of the day?


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 13:54:58 -0500
From: "Moore, Jimmy"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters

Does anyone have the vacuum schematics for a 1981 F-150 with a 300 straight
six?

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Behling [mailto:mbehling earthlink.net]
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 1999 1:44 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters


Hi Ed,

Don't know if this is going to help answer your question, but the filter
I use is
the OEM Ford oil filter. I found that when I used the Fram unit. The oil
pressure took
significantly longer time for the to come up, versus using the OEM unit.
When I
examined the check valves on both filters, the one on OEM unit appeared to
be more
substantial and higher quality than the valve on the Fram.
Another trick I do when changing oil is to prime the filter, which is
common
practice on larger industrial engines. This is done by turning the filter
upside down
and filling it with oil before installing. It is amazing to see how much oil
the filter
will soak up, by watching the level drop as you fill the filter.
Basically the way I see it, the sooner the oil pressure comes up on
initial as well
as continued startups the better.


Mark
San Diego, CA
'96 F150 I6 5sp




>Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 08:27:06 -0500
>From: "Ed Mount"
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters
>
> Too bad. I find a good thing and stick with it for years, only to find
the
>company has suckered me and lots of others by cheapening the product for
its
>own profit. Seems to be the way the world is going, everyone is looking
for
>the big bucks, and forget about quality and integrity.
>
>It looks like Fram was one of those quality companies who got bought out
for
>their good name, then the good name was taken advantage of. It seems in
the
>business world, this tactic is called smart marketing, and the people who
>practice it are considered good businessmen and are highly praised. What
is
>the current filter of the day?


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 15:38:40 -0400
From: joe delaurentis
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires

HI,
i run 33x12.5x15 on my 92 Bronco on the stock rim(bought the truck this way)

and it rubs at full lock forward or reverse but only at full lock...I too
heard that
32's were the biggest but its up to you


Rich wrote:

> I would like to know what the biggest tire is that I can put on my 96
> F150 4x4. It has the 235's now. I just don't want my speedo to be off to
> far
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- --
Joe
68 4x4 390 c6- Np 205 Dana 44 with Disc Brakes,
Since Ford Didn't build em this way in 68, I'll make my own!


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 17:37:37 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Vacuum schematics

At 13:54 30/10/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Does anyone have the vacuum schematics for a 1981 F-150 with a 300 straight
>six?

I have the 1980, if no one comes along with the 1981. You can probably
figure out the differences. I assume underhood sticker is missing...


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD
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Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 18:10:06 -0500
From: "Ed Mount"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: 96 f150 dash

No, I looked, but I didn't see anything at all externally accessible on the
back of the instrument cluster. I looked at the cluster and it looked like
it could be disassembled and you might find a chip or chips inside, but I
didn't really want to try, as my odometer was pretty close anyway. By the
way, it is such an easy swap that I took it back out and re-installed my old
cluster until I put on another 1000 miles to catch up, then put the
tach-equipped cluster back in.

Ed
- -----Original Message-----
From: Rob Bryan
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Saturday, October 30, 1999 3:50 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: 96 f150 dash


|Ed,
|
|Pretty much confirms that the PSOM is mounted to the cluster. Did you see a
|"box of electronics" on the back of the clusters that you could swap over?
|
|Rob
|
|> Rich,
|> I made this instrument cluster swap on my 94 F150 this summer. The
mileage
|> stays in the cluster, so you will be stuck (or blessed) with the mileage
in
|> your new replacement cluster. Sorry.
|
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|

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 18:27:36 -0500
From: "Ed Mount"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters

Mark,
Priming the filter sounds like an excellent concept, but how do you keep
from spilling the oil out of the filter when you are moving it into place to
screw it on? On my 94 5.8L V8, the filter is in a tricky position and I
have to maneuver it such that I am pretty sure the oil would spill out of
it. It is a one-hand job to install it, not room to get two hands in.

Ed
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Behling
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Saturday, October 30, 1999 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters


|Hi Ed,
|
| Don't know if this is going to help answer your question, but the
filter I use is
|the OEM Ford oil filter. I found that when I used the Fram unit. The oil
pressure took
|significantly longer time for the to come up, versus using the OEM unit.
When I
|examined the check valves on both filters, the one on OEM unit appeared to
be more
|substantial and higher quality than the valve on the Fram.
| Another trick I do when changing oil is to prime the filter, which is
common
|practice on larger industrial engines. This is done by turning the filter
upside down
|and filling it with oil before installing. It is amazing to see how much
oil the filter
|will soak up, by watching the level drop as you fill the filter.
| Basically the way I see it, the sooner the oil pressure comes up on
initial as well
|as continued startups the better.
|
|Mark


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Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 18:55:30 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters

I also fill the oil filter up before installing it, like Mark does. In my
300 I-6 the filter screws on the side and I never have any oil spill out. I
use one hand also.

I only fill it 80% of the way up. It seems the end plate holds the oil in
while you spin it on. I'd say try it half full, then work your way up to
more each oil change as you get used to moving it up there without spilling
it.

I think it is worth it. Who would intentionally run their engine for 30
seconds with no oil pressure?

At 18:27 30/10/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Mark,
>Priming the filter sounds like an excellent concept, but how do you keep
>from spilling the oil out of the filter when you are moving it into place to
>screw it on? On my 94 5.8L V8, the filter is in a tricky position and I
>have to maneuver it such that I am pretty sure the oil would spill out of
>it. It is a one-hand job to install it, not room to get two hands in.
>
>Ed

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX "A Ramblin' Wreck from Georgia Tech
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton and a helluva' engineer!"
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
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Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 19:03:22 -0500
From: "Steve Dyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filter access - was Fram

I second that motion. Sucks bigtime, and having 4WD ensures you can't
doing standing flat-footed. Filter access on my '94 F150 5.8L is exceeded
in difficulty by my previous '91 Taurus 3.8L, which was a piece of cake
compared to my current '96 4.6L Thunderbird. When they get to Hell, I hope
the engineers and managers who approved these designs are fated to do oil
changes on endless rows of these models (especially the T-Bird) for all
eternity, using only the equipment found in the average homeowner's garage.
Sadistic rat bastard sunzabitches.

- ----------------------------

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ed Mount

(snip)

On my 94 5.8L V8, the filter is in a tricky position and I have to maneuver
it such that I am pretty sure the oil would spill out of
it. It is a one-hand job to install it, not room to get two hands in.

Ed



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Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 20:26:22 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires

Michael wroteL:

>I would like to know what the biggest tire is that I can put
on my 96
>F150 4x4. It has the 235's now. I just don't want my speedo to
be off to
>far

It doesn't matter how wide the tire is, it is the rolling radius (ground to
center of the wheel bearing) that affects your speedometer reading.

Exceptionally wide tires may not affect the speedometer, but may have
interference problems. Not enough back spacing = the fenders eat your tires
+ wheel bearings wear prematurely. Too much back spacing and the tire scuffs
its sidewall on the suspension and/or fram components.

It is relatively simple to select and install speedometer drives of various
ratios. When selecting a tire diameter, consider whether or not your truck
has the correct gear ratio for a particular diameter. Generally, I've had
the best driveability/performance/economy compromise when the engine turns
at or slightly below its peak torque RPM at the speeds I normally operate
the vehicle.

Ken

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 20:28:31 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Bigger Tires

Around here every little town has a "Your Speed is:...." thing to make you
feel guilty. They sure are handy for checking speedo accuracy.

Ken

______________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 20:30:56 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild

I'll be happy to, Smeck, if someone will tell me how.

Ken

______________________________________________________
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