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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #303
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80-96-list-digest Friday, October 29 1999 Volume 03 : Number 303



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Oz Les, and flame throwing!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters- down on the fram
FTE 80-96 - temp sending units
Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR Valve
FTE 80-96 - Re: Temperature Sending Unit(s)
FTE 80-96 - Color guard trailer
FTE 80-96 - Testing Testing
FTE 80-96 - T coil
Re: [Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 460 vs. 302 mileage]
Re: FTE 80-96 - T coil
RE: FTE 80-96 - EGR Valve
Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR Valve
Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR Valve
FTE 80-96 - Re: alt. belt slipping
RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: alt. belt slipping
FTE 80-96 - Bed measurement
Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 rebuild
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: alt. belt slipping
Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters
Re: FTE 80-96 - transmission swap
Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: alt. belt slipping
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Oz Les, and flame throwing!
FTE 80-96 - Hard starting, Loping idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - Hard starting, Loping idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Oz Les, and flame throwing!
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Oz Les, and flame throwing!
Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 F250 hubs
Re: FTE 80-96 - F250 Diesel with Banks
Re: FTE 80-96 - transmission swap
Re: FTE 80-96 - above-windshield shelves
Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Oz Les, and flame throwing!
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Oz Les, and flame throwing!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters
FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild
FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters
Re: FTE 80-96 - T coil
FTE 80-96 - Multi-Switch replacement
FTE 80-96 - Valve job
Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters
Re: FTE 80-96 - Hard starting, Loping idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - Hard starting, Loping idle
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Oz Les, and flame throwing!
FTE 80-96 - Dating a 351W
FTE 80-96 - (no subject)
Re: FTE 80-96 - Multi-Switch replacement
Re: FTE 80-96 - (no subject)

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 20:25:32 +1000
From: les williams
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Oz Les, and flame throwing!

Dave Harmier wrote:

>
> Les, you ozzies are a funny lot!!!
>
> Serieously, a guy at "cruise night" has a 59 Chevy with Flame Throwers. It
> drives the crowd nuts!
> It would be AWFUL fun to do to tailgaters!!!! Now to do something about
> the ones ahead of us......
> Bazooka anyone?
>
> Dave H.
> Lost in Texas

Hi Dave,
I guess that's what happens in a country with 19 million people walking
around-upside-down !!!
Flame throwers are OK, Its just a problem of collateral damage - How much can
you afford?? :-))
Bazookas ?? a bit of a sledge hammer approach, isn't it ? :-))
The idiot behind me, dosn't really worry me, BUT for those mongerals that cut
me off and then stand on the brakes - Well - you have my attention !!
The best I can think of, is a devise that's a cross between a couple of
spring-loaded cattle prods, and ignition by MSD. A gentle Tap & Zap from
behind, and terminate their auto computer & electrical systems..... hmmmm it
sound almost too easy, but I still like you thinking.

Regards

Les
Lost in The Land of OZ

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 08:59:00 -0500
From: "Ed Mount"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters- down on the fram

Oh, well. Another bubble burst, Fram's are no longer what I thought they
were. Just another victim of the merger mania, it appears, making profits
on an old reliable name.

Ok, Mike, what I seem to be hearing is that in general street use, oil
filters are mainly just for feel-good, and that Oberg filters are better
than most. Where do you get them? Would it be worth the supposed extra
cost? Even though I don't abuse my vehicle engines, I like to give them the
best protection I can afford. They reward me for it.

Ed

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Persell
To:
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 10:18 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters

> Have you ever seen an Oberg oil filter? I used them on several aluminum
supercharged drag boat engines after having used Fram racing filters. I was
shocked to see what was left in the engines after each pass so I tried an
experiment on my own street vehicle and Kendall motor oil. After running the
Oberg and the Kendall for 5000 miles I had the oil tested by Analysts Inc in
Oakland. The oil read similar to a vehicle with 500 miles on the oil.
>
> The quality of most filters is a wierd issue. 90% of the filters you buy
in a parts store today bypass at anything over 25lbs oil pressure anyway.
They discovered that if they bypass their liability goes way down and there
aren't any more filter warranty problems. Fram doesn't make filters anymore,
as like most other filter manufacturers. There are several companies around
the country that make filters for Fram, Purolator, Motorcraft, etc. One of
them is Facet filter in Utah.
>
> Net statement...filters don't mean that much anymore because of the
quality of the oil and newer metallurgy. They more or less just pick up the
big stuff at hot idle.
>
> Mike


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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 09:05:58 -0500
From: "PHILLIP P. GUIDRY"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - temp sending units

Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 21:19:23 -0700
>From: Joan and Walt Posluszny
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Temperature Sending Unit(s)

>Anyone know if the temperature sending unit used with the dashboard
>temperature gauge is the same temp sending unit that the EEC-4 computer >gets
>it's temperature information from to adjust the timing, etc... on my 85
>351-2v? Thanks Walt
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Hey Walt,no,there are 2 different devices for those functions,in your
year model. The temp sending unit is the proper name for the sender that
controls the gauge reading on the dash board.It is a one wire unit,with
a threaded stud sticking out of the top,usually mounted near the
thermostat. The other,properly called engine coolant temp sensor(not
sender),is a 2 wire unit,that a pigtail plugs into,and is also usually
mounted near the thermostat on V-8's and the side block for a L-6.your
model tells me you have the VV carb right? If so,I pitty you if you have
problems with the carb!
Phillip
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 09:18:19 -0500
From: "DannyF"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR Valve

Thats the EVP(Egr Valve Position) sensor. It can be bought
separately(~$20, non-dealer). Its nothing but an extra device to
report back to the ECM on the position of the sensor.

You're applying an alt. vacuum source but are you getting vac to
the EVP from the EGR controller above idle? There should be
some.

Either way, on starting/idleing, the EGR usually isn't a factor
unless the EGR controller gives a bad signal to the EVP and
applies vacuum on starting/idle. Kind of rare.

But you know the EGR is operational but who says its sealing
when shut? Take off the EGR/EVP and clean out the valve/seat
and port to make sure it will seal and not allow exh. gas into the
intake when closed.

Danny

>
> Can the solonoid on top of the egr valve be purchased separately? The
> 94 F-150 (302) started having problems recently trying to start. It
> usually takes 4 or 5 secs to start and then it has a very "loping" idle
> until you drive off. The codes I've pulled include insufficient egr
> flow and EGR valve position sensor below min voltage. If I apply an
> alternate vacuum source I can see and hear the EGR valve open and when I
> remove it, the valve snaps closed. Will replacing this top portion of
> the egr solve this problem w/o having to replace the whole egr valve?


Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 09:18:19 -0500
From: "DannyF"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Temperature Sending Unit(s)

Nope. You have a coolant temp sensor for the ECM and you have a
engine temp sender/switch for the gauge.

Danny

> Anyone know if the temperature sending unit used with the dashboard
> temperature gauge is the same temp sending unit that the EEC-4 computer
> gets
> it's temperature information from to adjust the timing, etc... on my 85
> 351-2v? Thanks Walt


Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 10:25:35 -0400
From: slikness mindspring.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Color guard trailer

With the fun I'm having, I should be paying them...Oh, wait, I am paying them!!!!

> Slik,
Band parents don't get paid enough.

______________________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 08:44:33 -0600
From: Fred Moreno
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Testing Testing

The company email mental midgets mess up our connection/communication with
any outside email sources. Just testing to see if this works now. Could
anyone who replied in the last couple of days please forward messages
directly to my address (if it works).
Must use this as a test since the same mental midgets under orders from Big
Brother have removed internet access to just about everyone. Would love to
view the site again, maybe if I behave for Christmas...
Sorry, to use the bandwidth for this, but I do have some good company
benefits left.

Fred Moreno
Autotronic Controls Corp (MSD Ignition) - Alternate Fuels div.
El Paso TX.
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 11:26:11 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - T coil

Blake writes: >>Drill and tap a hole into the side of your exhaust pipe just in
from the
exit and thread a spark plug in. Hook it to a Model T coil that is wired to
a switch inside. With a carbureted engine, you could leave it in gear and
shut the ignition off so the gasoline vapors would collect in the exhaust.
Hit the coil button and WAMMM! it throughs a nice flame out the back.
Probably wouldn't work with a cat converter either. Oh well, technology
takes the fun out.

Yo Blake!!!! You old enough to have tried this or are you relating someone
elses experiences???????
I'm old enough to have done this on a '51 Merc that I had as a youngster. Great
stories and great car.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: 28 Oct 99 09:42:26 PDT
From: William Berninghausen
Subject: Re: [Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 460 vs. 302 mileage]

Ken: it'll be hard to avoid the groundswell of approval for a 'tall tale=
s
list!'

[response to
les williams wrote:
> This still has nothing to do with 460 vs. 302 mileage, again.
> If Ken Payne started a list called, say 'Tall Tails & True Stories In,
> On, and About Ford Trucks' ]



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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 10:17:11 -0700
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - T coil

>Blake writes: >>Drill and tap a hole into the side of your exhaust pipe
>just in
>from the
>exit and thread a spark plug in. Hook it to a Model T coil that is wired to
>a switch inside. With a carbureted engine, you could leave it in gear and
>shut the ignition off so the gasoline vapors would collect in the exhaust.
>Hit the coil button and WAMMM! it throughs a nice flame out the back.
>Probably wouldn't work with a cat converter either. Oh well, technology
>takes the fun out.
>
>Yo Blake!!!! You old enough to have tried this or are you relating someone
>elses experiences???????
>I'm old enough to have done this on a '51 Merc that I had as a youngster.
>Great
>stories and great car.
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.

Yea, my dad did this as a kid only he had his rigged so that it would go
constantly at the flick of a switch. Says it sounded like a V1 rocket with
6' flame shoot'in out the back. The cops were always try'in to catch him
with this thing turned on.

son-of-a-rebel



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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 13:08:30 -0500
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - EGR Valve

It's not a solenoid, it's a position sensor. The sensor is probably OK if
it's indicating an EGR fault code. You can check it by removing it and
measuring the resistance while pressing the plunger. From what you've said
it sounds like the EGR valve moves and the sensor is OK. What's left is a
vacuum control solenoid in series with the vacuum line to the EGR. Rev the
(warm) engine and see if you feel any vacuum on this line. If not, trace it
looking for leaks or a bad control solenoid. By the way, the KOER test
checks this system by routing vacuum to the EGR and then seeing if moves by
looking at the position sensor. Good Luck.

David Anderson

>>>>>Can the solonoid on top of the egr valve be purchased separately? The
94 F-150 (302) started having problems recently trying to start. It
usually takes 4 or 5 secs to start and then it has a very "loping" idle
until you drive off. The codes I've pulled include insufficient egr
flow and EGR valve position sensor below min voltage. If I apply an
alternate vacuum source I can see and hear the EGR valve open and when I
remove it, the valve snaps closed. Will replacing this top portion of
the egr solve this problem w/o having to replace the whole egr
valve??>>>>>>>



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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 14:17:24 -0400
From: flagship worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR Valve

Thanks.

That makes sense. I'll try to replace that and eliminate some codes and
go from there....

Emil

Radoje Spasojevic wrote:
>
> AFAIK the EGR solenoid is not mounted to the top of the EGR valve it should
> be mounted on hte drivers side of the intake manifold next to the Thermactor
> solenoid and the ignition coil. I think the device on top of the EGR valve
> is the EGR valve position sensor.
>XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

> >Can the solonoid on top of the egr valve be purchased separately? The
> >94 F-150 (302) started having problems recently trying to start. It
> >usually takes 4 or 5 secs to start and then it has a very "loping" idle
> >until you drive off. The codes I've pulled include insufficient egr
> >flow and EGR valve position sensor below min voltage. If I apply an
> >alternate vacuum source I can see and hear the EGR valve open and when I
> >remove it, the valve snaps closed. Will replacing this top portion of
> >the egr solve this problem w/o having to replace the whole egr valve??
> >
> >Emil
> >94 F150 Flareside
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>
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 14:35:34 -0400
From: flagship worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR Valve

It is providing a vacuum above idle. I originally checked the sensor
with a vacuum guage after being told by the man behind the parts counter
(17 and 1/2 year old?) that it was supposed to have constant vacuum.
Later I found out the correct method of operation and it does in fact
kick in vacuum above idle. I'll check the rest and replace the sensor.
Thanks...

Emil

DannyF wrote:
>
> Thats the EVP(Egr Valve Position) sensor. It can be bought
> separately(~$20, non-dealer). Its nothing but an extra device to
> report back to the ECM on the position of the sensor.
>
> You're applying an alt. vacuum source but are you getting vac to
> the EVP from the EGR controller above idle? There should be
> some.
>
> Either way, on starting/idleing, the EGR usually isn't a factor
> unless the EGR controller gives a bad signal to the EVP and
> applies vacuum on starting/idle. Kind of rare.
>
> But you know the EGR is operational but who says its sealing
> when shut? Take off the EGR/EVP and clean out the valve/seat
> and port to make sure it will seal and not allow exh. gas into the
> intake when closed.
>
> Danny
>
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 15:21:41 -0500
From: "Waddell"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: alt. belt slipping

any ideals on why my alt. belt slips when I turn on my headlights? it
really screams.

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 14:40:45 -0600
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: alt. belt slipping

When you use any current from the battery the regulator kicks in the
alternator which is then producing current to the entire electrical system.
If you look at your ammeter on the dash you will see it drop when the lights
go on.

The belt must be slipping because the alternator is dragging it down because
of what I just stated above. The belt is either loose or it needs replaced.
Less likely but not uncommon, your alternator is defective. Also watch for
any signs that your battery may be weak and causing the alternator to work
harder than normal.

Later,
Scott

- -----Original Message-----
From: Waddell [SMTP:waddell netnitco.net]

any ideals on why my alt. belt slips when I turn on my headlights? it
really screams.


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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 16:48:21 EDT
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Bed measurement

Can someone with a fleetside F-series measure the distance between the bed
rails at the front of the bed for me? I have to pull out the dent that my
old motor made this weekend, and I need a refrence.

Thanks!!!

Joe
Lost in jersey
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 19:13:08 EDT
From: RQTHOMSON aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 rebuild

The other answers are good, get a manual (or two). The rebuild options are
endless, depending on your finances. I'm in the process (very slow) of
rebuilding a 351 and it's my first time. If you are not too interested in
specialties, NAPA has master rebuild kits (cam, pistons, bearings, rings,
gaskets, etc for reasonable prices (mine was less than $300) and the parts
are good name brands. Also the machine work (hot dip, bore, turn crank, press
on pistons, install cam bearings) was around $300. This doesn't include
miscelaneous parts & cleaners.
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 19:21:49 EDT
From: Spruce1495 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: alt. belt slipping

It's probably loose or badly glazed. If it a tensioner type adjuster
(serpentine type) you will be better off just changing it, while if it is the
older style with the actual bolt and brace adjuster you may be able to
tighten it to stop squeal. Lastly check the amount of effort it takes to turn
the alternator pulley with the belt off. If it is really tight (hard to turn)
it could be bearings in unit.
Bill
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 16:47:42 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters

Mike,

Thanks for the info about Fram dumping on us. Sheesh, another company sells
out to greed. :( I guess I should have figured some such baloney when
WalMart started selling them. Speaking of WalMart, anybody else notice how
shoddy their merchandise has become since the old man died? I think he drove
and old Ford pickup, too, but I could be wrong about that.

Now I have a question: where do I get good filters at a good price? I use
36+ PH8A filters a year, and I'd hate to have to pay a high price for decent
filters.

Ken

Learning something new every day, and loving it.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 16:56:50 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - transmission swap

Phil,

Try the hotrod aftermarket. There are bracket kits for kickdown cables
available at most auto parts stores, at least for the carb end. If push
comes to shove, I've made do with both adapted vacuum motors and 12V
industrial selenoids. Both methods work for Chevy and can make a cleaner
installation if properly detailed. With a selenoid activated downshift you
can wire a switch to force the downshift, avoiding what sometimes becomes a
slow-down-until-you-have-it-floored-then-speed-up-until-it-upshifts-then-slow-down...
cycle on long hills. Still, it is best to find factory parts, mainly because
they are less headache to install.

Good luck finding your parts.

Ken

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 17:09:52 -0700
From: johny
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters

On the assumption you think Motocraft is a decent vendor...

My local walmart has the Motocraft equivalent for $2.77.
I don't recall the motocraft part #, offhand, but I'm sure someone does.

Walmart also seems to have the best price on the FL-1995 which is the
oil filter for the PSD. Under $10.00.

> Now I have a question: where do I get good filters at a good price? I use
> 36+ PH8A filters a year, and I'd hate to have to pay a high price for decent
> filters.



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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 17:12:51 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: alt. belt slipping

Either your belt is loose, there is something on the belt and/or pulleys
that prevents a good frictional mating, or you have a super high electrical
load, like a short.

Alternators pull more power when the convert rotary motion to electrical
potential. The torque demands are exceeding the coefficient of friction
between the belt and one or more pulleys.

Sorry, I get carried away sometimes. What that all means is that the belt is
slipping.

Ken

P.S. What do you expect from kindergarten teacher who is a physics professor
at night.

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 17:01:59 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Oz Les, and flame throwing!

Les,

Wire one side of a model T vibrator coil to one bumper gaurd, a ground to
the other, and a pressure sensitive switch. Ever see what happens to someone
sitting on a 5 gallon oil can wired to a T coil? haahaahaa You may need a
12V-6V converter to make the coil work correctly, or just use a 6V dry cell
and be sure to disconnect it before checking the oil or you will talk like
Peewee Herman.

Ken


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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 20:38:25 -0400
From: flagship worldnet.att.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hard starting, Loping idle

I replaced the EGR position sensor after getting some codes about EGR
flow etc. This has not fixed either problem.. I suspect the TPS but
get no codes that indicate this may be the problem. I don't want to
guess with $50.00 plus parts but that's my next guess. Any one have a
better idea???

Emil
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 18:09:59 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Hard starting, Loping idle

You could test the TPS easily enough with a volt meter. The voltage
measured should be at .6 volts at idle building to 4.5 volts full throttle.
There are three wires to it, one of them is the VREF, it should read 10.5
volts constant. The other two are the two to use.

You should see a SMOOTH transition from the .6 to 4.5 volts. If it jumps
around or wavers, it's called a dropout in the TPS wiper and it needs to be
replaced.

Another thing to check is the Idle by-pass valve, it's mounted on the side
of the throttle bore and ii designed to provide air to the system when no
throttle is being used.
If this thing starts sticking, it will also demonstrate the symptoms you
have mentioned.

Bob


flagship worldnet.att.net wrote:

> I replaced the EGR position sensor after getting some codes about EGR
> flow etc. This has not fixed either problem.. I suspect the TPS but
> get no codes that indicate this may be the problem. I don't want to
> guess with $50.00 plus parts but that's my next guess. Any one have a
> better idea???
>
> Emil
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 21:57:33 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Oz Les, and flame throwing!

>Les,
>
>Wire one side of a model T vibrator coil to one bumper gaurd, a ground to
>the other, and a pressure sensitive switch. Ever see what happens to someone
>sitting on a 5 gallon oil can wired to a T coil? haahaahaa You may need a
>12V-6V converter to make the coil work correctly, or just use a 6V dry cell
>and be sure to disconnect it before checking the oil or you will talk like
>Peewee Herman.
>

I have run them on straight 12 volts for short periods with no problem.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 21:59:13 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Oz Les, and flame throwing!

>Serieously, a guy at "cruise night" has a 59 Chevy with Flame Throwers. It
>drives the crowd nuts!
>It would be AWFUL fun to do to tailgaters!!!! Now to do something about
>the ones ahead of us......
>Bazooka anyone?
>

Paint ball gun wired under front bumper. Paint removed and replaced with
paint remover using hyperdermic needle.


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 22:08:11 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 F250 hubs

>Hi all
>
> Had a question about the locking hubs on a 95 F-250. Are they std dana
>44 hubs? They seemed to look bigger, almost like dana 60 locking hubs,
>but I won't have the truck for a couple more days. What did the dana 50
>have better than the dana 44 (I know diff is the same). Are all TTB
>F-250's dana 50?
>

I have seen those trucks with different kinds of hubs. Our diesel 89 has
larger hubs than my 88 150, but I am not sure about the mid-axle parts.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 22:06:43 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F250 Diesel with Banks

>I have a 1993 F250 7.3 diesel with a Banks Power Pack. I have been
>tremendously pleased with the performance of the truck. I had the Banks
>system installed at about 5K miles (48K now) and it has performed
>flawlessly since then.
>

What kind of increase did you get in mileage and power?


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 22:01:48 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - transmission swap

>Ok, I'll try to make this brief.
>1988 Ford F150, 300 I-6, 5 speed Mazda tranny, 4x4.
>5 speed is toast.
>Have C-6 from a 1989 Bronco.
>
>I need a kickdown cable and brackets from the engine and transmission.
>

I don't think you even need the kickdown linkage. Just downshift if you
want to wind her up quick and move out. Otherwise it should shift just fine.

I ran my 77 Bronco with C-4 for years with no kickdown and no problem.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 22:03:54 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - above-windshield shelves

>Performance Corner lists them in their catalog, 1999/2000 Fall/Winter. page 69
>They list both a console $79.99 and an Overhead Shelf $59.99
>

I wonder if Summit has them? I might stop there tomorrow and look as I am
going right by there.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 20:32:56 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters

I personally use either Wix or Purolator filters. While it may be true that
they all filter the same, the internal construction plays an important part
for me. The Fram filters use a cardboard endcap to the filter element. I
don't know if any of you have soaked cardboard in oil, but I would rather
not have my cardboard filter elements disintgrating and clogging my oil
system.

Rade Spasojevic -- rspasoje mindspring.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.2bigbroncos.org/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=194
- -Rubicon Tested-
- -----Original Message-----
From: ken haley
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, October 28, 1999 4:48 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters


>Mike,
>
>Thanks for the info about Fram dumping on us. Sheesh, another company sells
>out to greed. :( I guess I should have figured some such baloney when
>WalMart started selling them. Speaking of WalMart, anybody else notice how
>shoddy their merchandise has become since the old man died? I think he
drove
>and old Ford pickup, too, but I could be wrong about that.
>
>Now I have a question: where do I get good filters at a good price? I use
>36+ PH8A filters a year, and I'd hate to have to pay a high price for
decent
>filters.
>
>Ken
>
>Learning something new every day, and loving it.
>
>______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 20:24:17 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Oz Les, and flame throwing!

T coils on 12 volts can power Star Wars weapons. Ouch. :)

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 20:25:58 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Oz Les, and flame throwing!

Nix the paintball gun with pint remover--the splat might bounce back.

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 20:59:07 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters

They must have been testing the bottom of the oil filter heap, because there
are plenty of better made filters out there than Fram. There is a website
where a guy took a bunch of filters apart and compared internals, I forget
the URL, but his result were pretty clear. The Fram filters were the most
poorly constructed of all the ones he tested.

Rade Spasojevic -- rspasoje mindspring.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.2bigbroncos.org/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=194
- -Rubicon Tested-
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ed Mount
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters


>I don't know much about filter construction, but a leading testing magazine
>who doesn't like to be quoted commercially did tests a couple or more years
>ago and said Fram was the one of the best off-the-shelf filters then
>available. Just reporting what I read. Maybe someone can elaborate.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
>To: 80-96-list Ford-trucks.com
>Date: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 3:07 PM
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Filters
>
>
>|
>|
>|Theodore M. writes: >>Use quality filters. Fram or....
>|
>|"Fram" and quality do not belong in the same structure.... Have you ever
>seen a
>|cutaway of a Fram filter????? I don't think so, because if you had, I do
>not
>|believe you would use the two terms in the same relationship.
>|
>|JMHO.
>|
>|Azie
>|Ardmore, Al.
>|
>|
>|== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 22:49:35 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: 302 Rebuild

Jason said:

>Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 05:51 -0500
>From: Jason D Odor
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - 302 rebuild

>Fellow Listers,
>Well, looks like I'm going to have to rebuild the 302 in my 93 F150. I've

>already started tearing it apart. I'm really excited, this is the first
time I
>have taken apart a motor. By the way, I'm the guy that has no compression
in
>cylinders 7 and 8. My question is, what do I look for and what are
components
>that I should replace(worn or maybe not worn)? On top of all of that,
what can
>I do while I have it apart to increase horse power? As I said, I am a
virgin
>to rebuilds, so any and all help/suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

>Jason

Jason, I claim to know NOTHING. But if 7&8 are right next to each other
(I'm not sure if it's 1357 on one side or 1234) but if they are, I'd bet
blown head gasket. Heck my 92 w/ 302 has 198k on it, and still seems solid.

Dave H.
Houston

P.S. I shudder at the thought of pulling my motor... hoses and wires from
HELL!!!!

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 23:00:54 -0600
From: apowell ezlink.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fram Filters

Ed said:

> I don't know much about filter construction, but a leading testing
> magazine who doesn't like to be quoted commercially did tests a couple or
> more years ago and said Fram was the one of the best off-the-shelf filters
> then available. Just reporting what I read. Maybe someone can elaborate.

I have taken apart a standard Fram filter and it's a shoddy piece of junk. If
you want visual evidence, buy one and cut it open. There's practically nothing
in there.

Also - refer to: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilters.html which is the
"results" part of the pretty well known oil filter study site.

Wherein it says, and I quote directly from the website...
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter
(the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features
cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber
anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing
dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are
sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The
stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and
fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in
my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were
circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked
and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum
lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.


I think that pretty well sums it up. That page has recommendations for and
against, based on the observations and filter disassembly conducted by the
author.
__
++++++++++++++++++++WSU-CSU+++++++++++++++++
Al Powell
Apowell EZlink.com
1958 Fiat 1200 Spyder "Transformabile"
1983 Datsun 280ZXT
1990 Audi 200
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ezlink.com/~powells/
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 01:02:12 EDT
From: A4T1RAT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - T coil

Just in case any of you want to put Flame throwers on your trucks... here
is the way I set them up for the lowriders out here... weld bungs in the tail
pipe about 6-8" from the end 1 for a spark plug and one for a fuel line.
mount a coil at the back and run spark plug wires of it to the plugs and
mount a switch in the car to turn it off and on mount a elect fuel pump at
the rear and run a fuel line to it and then run some steel line to the other
bungs you welded to the tail pipes ( these are to be mounted up stream form
the plugs about 2" or so and use the switch for the spark pulgs to turn on
the pump too and presto Flames ! to tune the length of the flame use a
smaller tube for the fuel line and reg. pressure. if you want to really get
trick you use holley carb jets in the end of the tube and a higher pressure
and center them in the middle of the pipe and point them out the end you can
get them 7' out the back ...... hot dog roast any one ????

RAT
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 23:03:58 -0600
From: apowell ezlink.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Multi-Switch replacement

As a newcomer, a question:

Has anyone replaced the multi-function switch (turn signal, wiper/washer
stalk) on a '93 or so F-150? Mine is dying fast - intermittent wipers won't work
correctly, cruise kicks off when I signal a right lane change. It's clearly worn
out.

I'm just wondering if there are any "gotchas" in replacing this switch.

Thanks...
__
++++++++++++++++++++WSU-CSU+++++++++++++++++
Al Powell
Apowell EZlink.com
1958 Fiat 1200 Spyder "Transformabile"
1983 Datsun 280ZXT
1990 Audi 200
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ezlink.com/~powells/
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 01:19:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: DBblueboy webtv.net (Jerome Kelly)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Valve job

I have a 1987 F150. Ever since I overheated the engine, it had a miss at
idle. Three plugs were burnt away on
the passenger side. I did a tune up and
changed the O2censor. I cleaned the
trottle and changed the tps. Changed
air filter and fuel. The engine started
stumbling at on exceleration with white
smoke coming out the exhaust. I think
I have a blown head gasket. Do I have
to change the gasket on both heads even
though just one is blown. I do not know
what the head looks like either. If I have
it redone, will it mess with the other one
or the performance of the engine. Should
I do them both?



http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://community.webtv.net/DBblueboy/DayBreakblueboyblue

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 01:26:14 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters

For the 5.0, Motorcraft Part# is FL-1A
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC

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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 01:30:19 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Hard starting, Loping idle

In a message dated 10/28/99 8:43:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
flagship worldnet.att.net writes:


better idea???

Emil >>
Emil,
Find a tech in your area that has a version of the Snap On Tools scanner
system. This scanner has real time info and will pull up slow or intermittent
codes. For the EECIV to throw a code, it needs to be a constant problem or
causes a fault elsewhere in the system. I had a bad knock sensor on my
Flareside that was screwing with my shift points. I couldn't figure out what
it was. A buddy of mine had one of these scanners and it found the
intermittent problem. Just a suggestion.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 01:34:37 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Hard starting, Loping idle

In a message dated 10/28/99 9:14:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bobkennedy uswest.net writes:


measured should be at .6 volts at idle building to 4.5 volts full throttle.
There are three wires to it, one of them is the VREF, it should read 10.5
volts constant. The other two are the two to use. >>
Bob,
I have been told to set the TPS at .98. Just throwing my .02 in.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 01:41:29 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Oz Les, and flame throwing!

In a message dated 10/28/99 10:17:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
blake little-mountain.com writes:


paint remover using hypodermic needle.

>>
Blake,
ROFLMAO...or brake fluid in a separately mounted windshield washer
reservoir...with the jets aimed out the sides of you wheel wells. I actually
had one worked up so the jets came out just in front of my rear bumper.
Worked great at the beach for the girlies laying out with the tops undone. A
little bit of ice water goes a LOOOONNNGG way.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 22:36:32 -0700
From: Chris McKinnon
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dating a 351W

I've got an '84 F-150 with a replacement 351W that is really pouring oil
from the rear-main oil seal (I think, is seems to be where most the oil is
coming from.) My question is twofold. The first part is where can I find the
casting numbers on the block to date the engine, (pre/post '83) The second
question is what other manual transmissions will fit the engine/transfer
case. The current transmission is a NP435 and the transfer case is also a
NP, I can't remember what model. The body/drive line was built 11/84. The
engine has an aluminum intake manifold (not stock, same with the carb (2v))
It also has a TFI-IV (?) distibuter, but again that may not be original either.
Thanks
Chris

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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 01:50:35 EDT
From: FLR150 ....


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