From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #302
Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
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80-96-list-digest Thursday, October 28 1999 Volume 03 : Number 302



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 460 vs. 302 mileage
FTE 80-96 - 302 rebuild
Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 rebuild
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 460 vs. 302 mileage
Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 rebuild
Re: FTE 80-96 - Lazy Heater Situation
RE: FTE 80-96 - Codes on 88' F350 CrewCab Dually
FTE 80-96 - Re: Oil Pressure and Temperature Gauges
FTE 80-96 - above-windshield shelves
FTE 80-96 - SRW to DRW
FTE 80-96 - Color guard trailer
FTE 80-96 - Wheels and Seat
FTE 80-96 - Filters
FTE 80-96 - Oily engine
FTE 80-96 - Std or undersized
Re: FTE 80-96 - Lazy Heater Situation
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 460 vs. 302 mileage
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: New policy
Re: FTE 80-96 - Lazy Heater Situation
FTE 80-96 - Chassis CLUNK solved.
FTE 80-96 - 89 3.L-V6 HARD STARTING COLD
Re: FTE 80-96 - Color guard trailer
Re: FTE 80-96 - above-windshield shelves
Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters
RE: FTE 80-96 - above-windshield shelves
FTE 80-96 - EGR Valve
Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters
FTE 80-96 - Painting and peeling/HD359
Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters
FTE 80-96 - Temperature Sending Unit(s)
FTE 80-96 - transmission swap
FTE 80-96 - 460
Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR Valve
Re: FTE 80-96 - 460

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 20:26:42 +1000
From: les williams
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 460 vs. 302 mileage

This still has nothing to do with 460 vs. 302 mileage, again.

Hi Ken,
You win!!
I am not going to 'fess up, or admit to anything I have done in my
younger
years. For the sake of the 'younger and still impressionable' members of
this
list, do not emulate any of these acts. Isn't it funny how the Younger
think,
they are the first ones to think up stunts like this.
If Ken Payne started a list called, say 'Tall Tails & True Stories In,
On, and
About Ford Trucks' - that could be a revelation !!! although we already
have 9
lists - I think every owner probably has had an experience that they
would love
to tell, concerning everything from how they found their truck, to the
'uses'
(now doesn't that cover a multitude of sins) it's been put to, but are
not sure
of the right place, or the concern of wasting the time of other list
members
that have no interest in such percieved crap.
...and I'm still having Fun....

regards

Les
Lost in the Land of OZ

ken haley wrote:

> Les,
>
> This has nothing to do with 460 vs. 302 mileage, either.
>
> Be sure the yuppie is not driving a car with a judiciary or congressional
> (or whatever your poli-biz people call themselves in head-stand land) plate
> before you smoke 'em.
>
> My brother loaded his windshield washers with disappearing ink, twisted the
> nozzles sideways, and blasted a congressman's wife right in her brand new
> Lincoln. heeheehee She didn't think him a bit funny. It only cost $150 to
> bail him out, and $100 for towing and impoundment. What can I say, he drives
> a Chevy?
>
> Of course, it wasn't half as expensive as the time he used his tailpipe for
> a skyrocket launcher and it went in the driver's window and out the
> passenger's window of an unmarked police car on a stake out, but that's
> another story.
>
> Are we having fun, yet?
>
> Ken
>
> The one who never forgets, and never let's his brother forget, either.
>
> ______________________________________________________
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 05:51 -0500
From: Jason D Odor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 302 rebuild

Fellow Listers,
Well, looks like I'm going to have to rebuild the 302 in my 93 F150. I've
already started tearing it apart. I'm really excited, this is the first time I
have taken apart a motor. By the way, I'm the guy that has no compression in
cylinders 7 and 8. My question is, what do I look for and what are components
that I should replace(worn or maybe not worn)? On top of all of that, what can
I do while I have it apart to increase horse power? As I said, I am a virgin
to rebuilds, so any and all help/suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Jason

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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 05:29:38 -0700
From: "Jamie"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 rebuild

I just had my 302 rebuilt (1990) I had a Sealed power speed pro cam
installed. If you go with too wild a cam you will have to install a chip.
you can increase the displacement by going with bigger pistons. Also inside
the exhaust ports on the 302 heads there is a little bump. I had the
machine shop grind these off and that gave me an extra 30hp. You have lots
of options when rebuilding, you could go to performance heads, intake,
rockers, but it all costs money, the cam I got was only $80 over the price
of the stock cam, but the chip was expensive around $400.

Jamie Cain
1990 F250 4x4 302
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jason D Odor
To:
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 3:51 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 302 rebuild


> Fellow Listers,
> Well, looks like I'm going to have to rebuild the 302 in my 93 F150. I've
> already started tearing it apart. I'm really excited, this is the first
time I
> have taken apart a motor. By the way, I'm the guy that has no compression
in
> cylinders 7 and 8. My question is, what do I look for and what are
components
> that I should replace(worn or maybe not worn)? On top of all of that,
what can
> I do while I have it apart to increase horse power? As I said, I am a
virgin
> to rebuilds, so any and all help/suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Jason
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 04:39:40 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 460 vs. 302 mileage

HAAHAAHAAHAA

Les, get ahold of your sheets, my friend. Otherwise, I'll have to down a bit
of grog and fly up there and retrieve them for you.

How about it, Mr. Payne? If not a list, how about room on the server for
html? It might even make an interesting book. I'll be happy to edit and
organize contributions for either html or print, especially if there is a
buck to be made from a book.

Did I ever tell you about the time we lined the bed of an F-250 with
styrofoam, loaded up 8 kegs, and dumped in 500 pounds of crushed ice? Man,
that was a party....

Ken


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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 04:46:02 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 rebuild

Jason,

It takes a book to explain in text how to properly overhaul an engine and
the use of the specialized tools for doing so. On top of that, every engine
has special considerations, such as clearances, capacities, and torques,
that are covered in another book. I strongly suggest that you study a couple
of shop manuals carefully for the answers you seek. The money and time you
save in the long run will be your own. You can get manuals through the mail
from J.C Whitney, so no excuses there. They will even priority mail if you
are in a hurry.

Good luck,
Ken


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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 06:49:31 -0500
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Lazy Heater Situation

, one hooter than the other,

Freudian slip ? >

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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 09:00:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Mark F. Burgo ( Mark F. Burgo"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Codes on 88' F350 CrewCab Dually

Well, first off I would like to thank everyone for their help with this. In
the KOEO status I get only a solid Check Engine light. I am beginning to think
the entire problem is with the wire harness. I went back out last night and
when I lifted the ECC Test connector to insert the jumper a wire just busted
off of the connector and I didn't even touch that wire. I am wondering of the
rest of the wires are this bad and checking into the cost of a new harness
today. I also believed I should be getting an 11 but have never gotten
anything from the KOEO test. Reviewed the procedure and even went as far as
borrowing a SNAP-ON code checker on Tuesday morning. Was unable to read
anything until I ran the engine. Same codes the egr valve not operating
properly and the O2 read rich. Checked vacuum on the EGR and all seems well
checked as per the Hayes manual the TPS and it reads fine.

Could it all be in the copper wires, is the question i pose today. I believe
that eleven year old wires are bound to go bad at some time and wonder if it
would be better to replace them or if you all have another suggestion....


Thanks again, this list is a wonderful tool and I'm glad I have the ability to
use it and pick your minds....


Mark


On 26-Oct-99 David Anderson (EUS) wrote:
> I'd first review the procedure you're using. Even with no stored faults you
> should get an "11" I think, meaning all OK. Take a look at this site for a
> well written procedure and code list.
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html
>
> David Anderson
>
>>>>>>Hello all,
>
>>>>>>>I attempted to read the KOEO codes but I get no response in this
> configuration. I can get codes with the KOER status modes. Does anyone
> have
> an explanation as to why I get nothing with the KOEO settings....>>>>>>>
>
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 08:29:14 -0500
From: "DannyF"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Oil Pressure and Temperature Gauges

Have a '90 Lariat 300-6 myself. Several friends too.

The oil pressure should show in the mid range on the gauge.
Maybe slightly lower/higher depending on temp/load.

The gauge itself is rarely the prob unless it reads 0 or pegs to high.
You could take a shot and just replace the sending unit. They can
get gunked up and report low press to the guage. Or you could
have a shop hook up a mechanical guage to verify the
gauge/sending unit(should be

I'm assuming fresh oil and maybe 5W-30 or 10W-30 for Oct in VA.

The temp gauge for this vintage normally reads low. Most times it
won't even hit the N in Normal. The only time I can get mine above
that is running the AC in 95-100 degree heat or pulling the boat
doing 65 out of OD.

Danny

> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Oil Pressure and Temperature Gauges
>
> Hi, my name is Mike. I'm rather new to the list. Recently, I bought my
> first car, err, truck. Just so happens that it's an '89, F-150 XLT
> Lariat,
> std cab, full size bed, 2 wheel drive with an I-6 under the hood. I
> picked
> it up fairly cheap from a family member in Richmond, Virginia. Aside
> from
> some very minor surface rust here and there, it's in great condition. I
> have
> plans within the next year to fix the any typical dings, scratches and
> such,
> and repaint it hopefully by July. So, for now, it gets me from point A to
> B
> while I do minor modifications and tweaks between classes.
>
> I believe the two of the issues I'm facing have been posted before,
> however
> I haven't been able to find the responses.
>
> A) The oil pressure guage shows very low pressure (if any). I know the
> pump
> isn't bad, as it was replaced shortly before I purchased the truck, and
> because I had to drive it up from Virginia. The engine runs great (even
> with 155,000 miles), so I figure if I had low pressure, I wouldn't have
> gotten as far as I did.
>
> B) The temperature guage is fairly low. I'm not sure if it is working at
> all, or if it is simply due to the semi-cold temperatures we've been
> experiencing here in Vermont.
>
> Any insight on the matters would be greatly appreciated. Although it's
> my
> first truck, I'm not entirely worthless when it comes to under-the-hood
> work, all I need is some help to get pointed in the right direction.
> And
> I'll ask for forgivance early if I ask multiple questions that
> would/should
> be common knowledge. As for an owner's manual, I don't have one, as it
> apparently walked away from the previous owner. As for a repair book, I'm
> in
> the middle of no-where, and the only nearby bookstores or auto stores
> don't
> have a book in stock. As I said, I'm kinda new to this, but I'm not
> entirely
> helpless, any help would be great. Thanks.
>
>


Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 09:40:56 -0500
From: BAH NWC.EDU
Subject: FTE 80-96 - above-windshield shelves

Thanks to all who responded to my query...I just might
try one. By the way, JCWhitney (of all places) carries
the Shelf-It piece for something like $49.99 (plus S&H).

Bruce Hanson
Apple Valley, MN
'86 F-150
'66 Bronco


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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 12:27:05 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - SRW to DRW

Jim Cross writes: >> I'm a new list member with an 89 F350 crew cab single
rear wheel under rebuild
It has an industrial bush box on it ( it's an ex-logging company unit)

2) Are dual wheels a bolt on or are there major brake changes etc to
convert from a
single wheels setup?

Don't know about your particular model, but I'll share my experiences with a '79
F350 4X4 SRW that my son and I converted to DRW.

The inner wheel(actually the tire) touched the leaf spring and we had to make a
spacer. We did this out of 1/2" aluminum stock. Countersunk the bolt holes on
both sides. Bought new lug bolts and installed in the axle and purchased the
larger nuts required for DRW's. This gave us just enough clearence for the
inner wheel. We're still running it this way and it was 4 years or so that we
did this. No problems so far, but I must say the truck never is really loaded.
Has a 10' flatbed on it. I think it really looks good and could be used for
heavy hauling, but it has never been truly tested. If we had it to do over we
would try to purchase a complete rear from a C&C that came with the DRW's.
Brakes seem to be adequate for the job, but again it hasn't been truly tested.
We are running the 16" rims not the 16.5"'s

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 08:54:07 -0400
From:
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Color guard trailer

>It's main uses are to tow the high school
color gaurd trailer

Hey, just wanted to mention that I pull the band trailer for our school behind my '82 F150. It's a real hoot going to those competitions!

Slik



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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 12:30:54 PDT
From: "Christopher Worley"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Wheels and Seat

Does any one know of I place that might sell a bench seat to fit the
extended cab of a '93 F150 SC, I am also looking for a set of wheels, the
factory type that came on the XL the ones I have now have the "dish" type
hup caps and really make my truck look bad.


Chris
'93 F150 SC 351

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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 15:50:51 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Filters

Theodore M. writes: >>Use quality filters. Fram or....

"Fram" and quality do not belong in the same structure.... Have you ever seen a
cutaway of a Fram filter????? I don't think so, because if you had, I do not
believe you would use the two terms in the same relationship.

JMHO.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 16:17:50 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Oily engine

Gary writes: >>Does the 302 like blowing oil up the dipstick ?
Any advice gratefully received. Is the oil pressure
gauge one of those that reads on startup, then swithes
itself off - or is this another problem in the making.

Sounds like excessive pressure in the crankcase. Ie. blowby or PCV valve not
functioning properly. Low oil pressure after ewngine warm up is indicative of
worn bearings -mains and rods. How many miles on this engine???????

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 16:25:50 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Std or undersized

Several are pondering this: >> I bought std and plastigauged them. Got lucky
and they were
all within tolerence. To be sure guess you could get one of each size and
check them before you bought the whole lot. Anyone have any ideas?

If you know the engine to be std before you tear into it, then I would replace
with std. If you don't know, then remove one each of the mains and rods and
look on the back of each. They will be marked with .010 /.020/.030 or such.
Sometimes this is the last digits of a P/N stamped into the back and sometimes
it is just the #'s. Make sure the crank journals are nice and smoothe and have
a mirrow like finish before you insert the bearings and most likely you will be
OK witrh this method.
You can special order most bearings in .001" and .002", also, but this is mostly
for professional racers, or those that claim to be experts in overhauling
engines.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 07:42:12 +1000
From: les williams
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Lazy Heater Situation

Ken Payne wrote:

> Forward for Fred Moreno
>
> Acquaintance shows up asking for help because his ratted out '83 (?) Ford
> truck takes too long to warm up and overheats and/or boils over when sitting
> at a light. This truck should be shot and buried because it has been so
> abused by the and previous owners.

Hey, Slow up here,
I just happen to be one that believes, there is no such thing as a bad
truck, but plenty of bad owners, bad engineering of parts, bad repairs or just
maybe No longer Economical to Repair!!! However, there IS such a thing as a
bad car - anybody for '59 Edsel, low milage. just kidding :-)) ....Arn't you
allowed to just Shoot the Abusive Previous Owners, and have them buried ?

Regards

Les
Lost In The Land of OZ

Phred, are you having email problems ? They are being returned 'Local Config
Error' - les

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 07:42:40 +1000
From: les williams
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 460 vs. 302 mileage

This has even less to do with 460 v's 302 milage than the last !!

Hi Blake,
As a kid I can remember dad turning off the ignition, rolling down a particular
steep hill in gear, near home, and 5 or 10 sec later turning the ignition back on,
and waiting for the explosion in the exhaust system. That was gang's of FUN. Every
so often we would have to go back and pick-up bits of hot muffler pieces that
didn't survive this treatment. That was the days of 15-20 amp generators. Then the
alternators came and that stopped that. Blown alternators are expensive.
This is what originally started me on this thread, being approached to install
an after fuel ignition devise and would the O2 sensor fitting a suitable point ? I
can only imagine what the message back to the computer would be if the O2 sensor
was actually wetted with fuel !! Let alone the potential damage to the cat
converter - Yes, you are right, we are being outsmarted by our own
technology....but as with this computer technology, we will learn to use & modify
the Auto computers for our own ends.

Regards

Les
Lost In the Land of OZ

> ...Yep...I'm havin' so much FUN.....
>
> Drill and tap a hole into the side of your exhaust pipe just in from the
> exit and thread a spark plug in. Hook it to a Model T coil that is wired to
> a switch inside. With a carbureted engine, you could leave it in gear and
> shut the ignition off so the gasoline vapors would collect in the exhaust.
> Hit the coil button and WAMMM! it throughs a nice flame out the back.
> Probably wouldn't work with a cat converter either. Oh well, technology
> takes the fun out.
>
> Blake
> Little Mountain
> Concord, Ohio
> Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
> "Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
> "An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 19:36:16 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: New policy

ADMIN: New policy ---- Please read!

As many of our old-timers may remember, we started a
policy of filtering out all special character formatting
and HTML in emails posted to the list.

This policy was put in place over 2 years ago because
many people where using email software that could not
handle such items correctly (mostly Unix email software).
This made life easier for those users but there was and
continues to be a tremendous burden on the list admins
and many users who post for first time.

There are many reasons for these burdens:

1. Many first time posters have font and/or color
settings in their email software. Their first post
gets rejected by our list server and they receive
an email detailing how to change the settings in
their software.

2. For each of the instances of item 1, either Keith
Srb (admin of three of the lists) or I have to
****manually**** send the instruction email.

3. Some users are unable to correct their settings,
either because they are unfamiliar with their
email software or our standard mailing does not
software their particular software (there is no
way we can possibly cover all email software
titles).

This is not something that occurs occasionally, but
happens many times each day. FTE has grown well
beyond the size it was when the policy was started.
At that time, we had less than 1,000 subscribers.
We now have over 5,000 and the lists continue to
grow.

FTE has always been something that I care deeply
about and I've continued to offer more free services
to our users as funds have allowed. While our funding
has increased and we're no longer losing thousands
of $$$ per year on this hobby gone amuck, my available
time has remained constant.

As some of my friends that I've made through the
lists know, FTE has been cutting into my family life
for a LONG time. 90% of this time is administering
the lists.

The demographics of email users has changed considerably
since we first instated the policy. Fewer than 1% of
our visitors are using Unix software as opposed to
15% 2 years ago. Most new releases of Unix email
software now supports HTML and character formatting.

The policy is obsolete. Beginning sometime next week
we will be removing the filters.

Rest assured that users who abuse this by using loud
fonts, huge characters, etc, will be warned to tone
it down.

Additionally, since the current filters block out
any possibility of viruses getting posted to the
lists, when the filters are removed, new filters
will be put in place which will block out file
attachments such as:

JPGs, GIFs, DOCs, COM, DLL, EXE, etc...

This will prevent email viruses getting posted.

Regards,
Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 17:05:33 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Lazy Heater Situation

Obviously. He drives a Ford, doesn't he?

Ken

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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 19:04:37 -0500
From: "Steve Dyer"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Chassis CLUNK solved.

Some may remember my complaint about not being able to find the source of a
clunk in the chassis of my '94 F150 extended cab 4WD. Pertinent
information from the original post is attached below.

In desperation I dropped off the truck at a frame/alignment shop to see if
they could track down the clunk and change the radius arm bushings if they
turned out to be the culprit. They beat on everything in the steering and
suspension but found nothing loose or worn. Then (this is embarrassing)
they spotted the bent steel brush/rock guard plate that protects the
transfer case. It was bent upwards from a past hi-center episode. I knew
it was bent but when examining the chassis in a static situation there
appeared to be plenty of clearance between the transfer case and this guard
so I gave it little thought. 'Ah,' says the frame dude, 'but when you roll
over the bumps, the rubber mounted drive train allows the bottom of the
transfer case to knock against the guard plate. We took off the plate,
hammered it out and put it back on. No more clunking'.

DUH.

Anyway, $24 later the problem is totally solved and while a little
red-faced, I'm in love with my truck again.

Steve Dyer


- ---------original posting --------


There is a serious 'CLUNK' from under the cab that started some months ago
and sounds/behaves a lot like a loose shock absorber. It is easily
summoned by driving over irregular pavement at low speeds, as it doesn't
take much wheel or chassis movement to produce the clunking. After it began
I installed new Monroe shocks all the way around and I've since checked the
shock bushings and mounts - everything is tight. A friend suspects the
radius arm bushings might be worn but I don't know how to tell for sure.
They 'look' OK, the nuts are tight and I can't move them myself, but this
probably doesn't prove anything. Engine mounts look good and I can't find
a loose transmission mount or anything unsual about the front springs. Have
any of you have experienced something similar? Any ideas what to check
next? Thanks for any assistance.


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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 19:35:49 -0500
From: Allen Stearns
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 89 3.L-V6 HARD STARTING COLD

I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, IAC valve and
temp sensor on my 89 Aerostar 3L-V6. I have checked the the MAP (it has
proper freq output using hand vacuum pump and freq meter), checked the
ACT using ohm-meter and heat gun and it's within specs specified by
NIEHOF. Checked the fuel pressure (42psi KOEO, 31 running with vacuum
applied to regulator), Checked and/or replaced vacuum hoses. Vacuum
checks O.K. The engine will not start cold unless I remove the IAC
electrical connector, otherwise the IAC solenoid energizes at KOEO
instead of after the engine starts. When warm the engine runs great and
IAC appears to work correctly. Does ANYONE have any suggestions on
where I go next? (Other than to a shop, which I'm about ready to do).
BTW, the computer codes give me a 11 every time. I receive an
occasional 41, but according to a TSB on my vehicle, this can usually be
ignored. BTW, this version of 3L-V6 has two identical temp sensors. One
is for the electronic temp guage and the other is for the computer
input. This is not mentioned in any manual I can find.
ANY info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Al
alpau bellsouth.net

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 17:27:14 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Color guard trailer

Slik,

Band parents don't get paid enough.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 19:44:20 -0500
From: "Ed Mount"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - above-windshield shelves

I looked it up at Cabela's web site. They have the standard model at $49.95
and a "deluxe" model for $69.95. From the description, you can't tell what
the difference is in the two.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Dyer
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 9:47 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - above-windshield shelves


|Steve
|Did you find it in a catalog, web page, or what? How much was it?
|Ed
|
|
|
|I ordered it from Cabela's, 800-237-4444, www.cabelas.com, and it was on
|sale for $49 at the time. Don't have a catalog in front of me but they
may
|still offer these shelves. I've also seen them in local truck accessory
|shops for about the same price.
|
|Steve

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 19:56:30 -0500
From: "Ed Mount"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters

I don't know much about filter construction, but a leading testing magazine
who doesn't like to be quoted commercially did tests a couple or more years
ago and said Fram was the one of the best off-the-shelf filters then
available. Just reporting what I read. Maybe someone can elaborate.

- -----Original Message-----
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
To: 80-96-list Ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 3:07 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Filters


|
|
|Theodore M. writes: >>Use quality filters. Fram or....
|
|"Fram" and quality do not belong in the same structure.... Have you ever
seen a
|cutaway of a Fram filter????? I don't think so, because if you had, I do
not
|believe you would use the two terms in the same relationship.
|
|JMHO.
|
|Azie
|Ardmore, Al.
|
|
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 20:53:28 -0400
From: "Michael R. Dunbar"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - above-windshield shelves

The picture clearly shows the difference. The deluxe model has an enclosed
console/coin dispenser (In my opinion, a waste, but a perfect enclosure for
various electronic devices, 6" LCD for DVD or GPS, etc), you'll also note a
quaint tissue dispenser when the passenger-side visor is flipped down.

Michael R. Dunbar
Technical Director, WVTC 90.7 FM
Vermont Technical College
Randolph Center, VT 05061


> I looked it up at Cabela's web site. They have the standard
> model at $49.95
> and a "deluxe" model for $69.95. From the description, you can't
> tell what
> the difference is in the two.

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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 21:08:08 -0400
From: flagship worldnet.att.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - EGR Valve

Can the solonoid on top of the egr valve be purchased separately? The
94 F-150 (302) started having problems recently trying to start. It
usually takes 4 or 5 secs to start and then it has a very "loping" idle
until you drive off. The codes I've pulled include insufficient egr
flow and EGR valve position sensor below min voltage. If I apply an
alternate vacuum source I can see and hear the EGR valve open and when I
remove it, the valve snaps closed. Will replacing this top portion of
the egr solve this problem w/o having to replace the whole egr valve??

Emil
94 F150 Flareside
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 18:24:27 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters

I've used Fram filters exclusively for over 30 years in everything from
lawnmowers to 6 000 horsepower offshore racing boats, Honda Z-50s to
Caterpillar quad turboed V-12s, 2.3 liter Rangers to 530 cid 10X10s, and
never had a filter failure or filter-related equipment failure.

What I have seen is that some of the filters that claim to trap submicron
particles actually stop up in about 1500-2000 miles, forcing the bypass to
open and allowing unfiltered oil to circulate until the next change.

When working as a service mechanic one of my regulars was a sandblasting
company with diesel compressors. Engine wear was a constant problem due to
the often dusty nature of sandblasting. The owner decided to try submicron
filters, and engine wear increased by about 20%. We devised a system to
check backpressure on used cartridges and found that the filters were
stopped up. We checked filters at regular intervals and found that
submicrons will stop up in less than 1/2 the time standard filters did, so
we installed dual filters in series, with the standard filter first and the
submicrons second. We also installed pressure gauges before, after, and
between each filter to monitor pressure drop. Only under the most severe
conditions did we need a filter change before the standard severe duty
service interval. Net result of all this worry about filters? 8-12% longer
run time between rebuilds, not enough to pay for the increased cost of the
submicron cartridges, which cost double and then some what standard
cartridges cost. Strangely, going to 2 standard cartridges plumbed parallel
did not decrease engine life from the series setup.

There seems to be a trade-off between service interval and minimum particle
size--the smaller the particles trapped, the quicker the filter stops up.

Net, if you want to run submicron filters, invest in a dual filter mount.
That way, they can go 4 times longer without stopping up than a single
filter. Or change the filter every 1500 miles. If you get the submicron
filters for the same price as standard filters, fine, you may get a bit more
engine life. But don't pay extra for them.

I believe dual filters are a good investment, not so much for the increased
filter capacity but for the increased oil volume. All my vehicles are fitted
with a dual filter system and thermostat-controlled oil cooler. This yields
a 1.9 quart increase in oil capacity. Net: each quart of my oil only does
about 2/3s the work oil in a stock system does. I believe THAT is the main
reason dual filters promote longevity.

Ken

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 19:34:18 -0700
From: "J.S.H"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Painting and peeling/HD359

>Most of these guys actually use the VIN to determine what it's supposed >to have so you can change out anything you like and they will just make >you put it back on. If they are inept and try to wing it without the >VIN then maybe some of these tricks would work......:-)

We swapped a 6.9 diesil for a 460 in my dads 84.
We peeled the diesel stickers off the gas doors,painted over the diesel
portion of the F-350 emblem and the diesel fuel only lettering on the
instrument cluster.
He has been smogging it w/460 in Nevada for at least five years.
It probably will not work in every case but it worked for us.



>First, yes the HD359 is listed in parts books

Learn something every day on this list.

>Does anyone know if all the front parts from a p-up FE engine
It's a FE so it has to be good,right Gary...:)

>will bolt on to my HD eng so I can have smaller water pump,
only one thermostat,

Don't know but my Fe is partially disassembled and I would be
glad to measure some parts if you like.

>and smaller rad. hoses?
Awhile back someone mentioned using hoses that are different sizes on
each end in a radiator swap.......

>Fan is bigger bolt pattern on pump and sticks
>out farther. May have trouble clearing rad.Any ideas?

Have the fan spacer shortened on a lathe?

>Shoulda put a C***y in it! HA!
My sentiments exactly.......
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 22:18:48 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Mike Persell"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Filters

On Wed, 27 Oct 1999 18:24:27 PDT, ken haley wrote:

>I've used Fram filters exclusively for over 30 years in everything from
>lawnmowers to 6 000 horsepower offshore racing boashore raa Z-50s to
>Caterpillar quad turboed V-12s, 2.3 liter Rangers to 530 cid 10X10s, and
>never had a filter failure or filter-related equipment failure.
ipment fu ever seen an Oberg oil filter? I used them on several aluminum
supercharged dr
superch
superchafter having used Fram racing filters. I was
shocked to see what was left in the engines after each pass so I tried an
experiment on my own street vehicle and Kendall motor oil. After running the
Oberg and the Kendall for 5000 miles I had the oil tested by Analysts Inc in
Oakland. The oil read similar to a vehicle with 500 miles on the oil.

The quality of most filters is a wierd issue. 90% of the filters you buy in a parts
store today bypass at anything over 25lbs oil pressure anyway. They discovered
that if they bypass their liability goes way down and there aren't any more filter
warranty problems. Fram doesn't make filters anymore, as like most other filter
manufacturers. There are several companies around the country that make filters
for Fram, Purolator, Motorcraft, etc. One of them is Facet filter in Utah.

Net statement...filters don't mean that much anymore because of the quality of
the oil and newer metallurgy. They more or less just pick up the big stuff at hot
idle.

Mike

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 21:19:23 -0700
From: Joan and Walt Posluszny
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Temperature Sending Unit(s)

Anyone know if the temperature sending unit used with the dashboard
temperature gauge is the same temp sending unit that the EEC-4 computer gets
it's temperature information from to adjust the timing, etc... on my 85
351-2v? Thanks Walt
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 23:42:16 -0500
From: "Phil Paulson"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - transmission swap

Ok, I'll try to make this brief.
1988 Ford F150, 300 I-6, 5 speed Mazda tranny, 4x4.
5 speed is toast.
Have C-6 from a 1989 Bronco.

I need a kickdown cable and brackets from the engine and transmission.

I have an idea as far as the shifter goes, should be able to make a B&M or
Hurst shifter work on the floor.

Has anyone done this swap? I guess I could use some ideas and tips on how to
get the job done, and done right. I'm not so much concerned with putting the
trans in, it's getting everything hooked up.....the tranny cooler will be no
big deal, but the shift linkage and kickdown linkage will be, especially if
I can't locate it around here anywhere....I've called the yards, no luck. I
called the dealer, they can get a cable, but not the brackets...

Thanks
Phil

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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 23:22:58 -0600 (MDT)
From: trophyguy webtv.net (CHAVEZ BRIGANTE)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 460

were 460's available in the usa in 1989???

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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 22:45:22 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - EGR Valve

AFAIK the EGR solenoid is not mounted to the top of the EGR valve it should
be mounted on hte drivers side of the intake manifold next to the Thermactor
solenoid and the ignition coil. I think the device on top of the EGR valve
is the EGR valve position sensor.

Rade Spasojevic -- rspasoje mindspring.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.2bigbroncos.org/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=194
- -Rubicon Tested-
- -----Original Message-----
From: flagship worldnet.att.net
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 6:07 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - EGR Valve


>Can the solonoid on top of the egr valve be purchased separately? The
>94 F-150 (302) started having problems recently trying to start. It....


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