From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #300
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80-96-list-digest Tuesday, October 26 1999 Volume 03 : Number 300



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - wheel paint
FTE 80-96 - 95 F250 hubs
Re: FTE 80-96 - Crank/Rod Bearing Replacement
Re: FTE 80-96 - wheel paint
Re: FTE 80-96 - How about reading the repair book FIRST?
FTE 80-96 - Oregon Grumbling & Read the *$# book
RE: FTE 80-96 - wheel paint
FTE 80-96 - Codes on 88' F350 CrewCab Dually
Re: FTE 80-96 - Crank/Rod Bearing Replacement
FTE 80-96 - RE: 460 vs. 302 mileage
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 460 vs. 302 mileage
FTE 80-96 - Strange oi leak
Re: FTE 80-96 - Codes on 88' F350 CrewCab Dually
Re: FTE 80-96 - Strange oi leak
Re: FTE 80-96 - Codes on 88' F350 CrewCab Dually
Re: FTE 80-96 - Crank/Rod Bearing Replacement
Re: FTE 80-96 - Crank/Rod Bearing Replacement
Re: FTE 80-96 - Codes on 88' F350 CrewCab Dually
Re: FTE 80-96 - Oregon Grumbling & Read the *$# book
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 460 vs. 302 mileage
[none]
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 460 vs. 302 mileage
FTE 80-96 - You have to get up oily
ADMIN: FTE 80-96 - How about reading the repair book FIRST?
FTE 80-96 - 2wd Bronco
Re: FTE 80-96 - You have to get up oily
Re: FTE 80-96 - wheel paint
Re: FTE 80-96 - Strange oi leak
FTE 80-96 - Super Cab rear seat lift
FTE 80-96 - Spark Plug Wire Enlightenment & Brake Light Puzzle

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 07:18:19 -0400
From: "Alger, Timothy, CTR, AFSAA/SAT"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - wheel paint

I am reconditioning a set of '86 ford rims and looking for a good wheel
paint and sealer. Anyone have any recommendations?

thanks
Tim Alger
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 08:47:11 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 95 F250 hubs

Hi all

Had a question about the locking hubs on a 95 F-250. Are they std dana
44 hubs? They seemed to look bigger, almost like dana 60 locking hubs,
but I won't have the truck for a couple more days. What did the dana 50
have better than the dana 44 (I know diff is the same). Are all TTB
F-250's dana 50?

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 08:46:19 -0500
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Crank/Rod Bearing Replacement

Congrat's on the overhaul :^) I remember when you first mentioned that you
were going change bearings and was waiting to see how it went. Also one of
the other listers (Azie?) said he'd done this a few times with good results.

I am considering replacing my main and rod bearings too. The engine still
has plenty of power but it's got a vibration that gets worse under load at
~2000 RPM's, and the oil pressure is on the low side. It has 135k miles and
the previous owners did not treat it kindly. Did you have to pull the engine
to do this or just raise it up a couple inches? Mine is a 87 F150 EFI 302
T18.
TIA
Smeck

- ----- Original Message -----
BTW, thanks to those (especially Blake) who took the time to comment on the
> advantages/disadvantages of replacing the bearings while changing out the
> oil pump. Changed the mains, the connecting rod bearings and replaced the
> std oil pump with a high volume one. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Probably added
> years to the life of this engine before a complete rebuild.
>
> Doc


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 07:19:39 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - wheel paint

Search out a good shop that can chemically clean, de-oxidize, and etch the
wheels. Then apply a good quality powder colorcoat/clearcoat finish. I have
a set of wheels finished thusly on one of my Mustangs, and even dog urine
washes right off.

Ken

Gun control is hitting what you shoot at.

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 11:47:06 EDT
From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - How about reading the repair book FIRST?

AMEN!
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:16:24 -0500
From: Andy Norris
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Oregon Grumbling & Read the *$# book

Dear Grumbling in Oregon and David W...

I understand your complaint about the digests being long. But what I would
suggest (because you're not necessarily going to change everybody's
behavior) is to copy all of the contents out of the email program and paste
it into whatever text editor/word-processor you are used to using. Then you
can just search for "subject:". That will take you to each message. Then
you can decide whether or not to read it.

...............................

Regarding "READ THE DAMN BOOK":

>Date: 24 Oct 1999 23:00:59 -0700
>From: "David W"
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - How about reading the repair book FIRST?

>As a subscriber to this mailing list for several months, I keep
>seeing people ask questions that would not need to be asked
>if they would simply READ a REPAIR BOOK on their
>#(# !(*#^ *!&# truck! Hayes, Chiltons, Ford, whatever
>repair book you like best. I mean, come on, the damn things
>start at $15 bucks or so. It would save the rest of us from
>having to see (again and again...) "How do I get the code from
>my truck computer" or "Where is the dipstick on my Ranger?"

David... I've been on this list since I bought my '89 F250 early this year.
I'm surprised you didn't jump all over me when I asked the group what the
difference was between the F150, F250, and F350. But I asked that stupid
question. And you know what? Not only did more than one person ANSWER my
question (graciously), but there were other folks that wanted more
clarification on the subject. And I can only imagine that maybe others had
the same question but were too afraid to ask.

You've heard "there's no such thing as a stupid question," right? Well,
subjectively there may be stupid questions, but objectively, until they're
answered, to someone out there, they are valid questions. And Haynes and
Chilton's don't answer some things. For example, the oil discussion that's
going on is far more in depth and valuable than anything in the books. But
if you want to look in Chilton's, it will tell you what oils are okay. Does
this mean we shouldn't waste bandwidth discussing it now?

I feel very fortunate that this list is around. While trying to diagnose
problems relating to a TPS is not easy via a mailing list format, this is a
good source of information. The human feel of being able to ask a question
and get an answer from a person is a good thing. The eagerness of the
knowledgeable folks on this list to help is the closest thing I've had to
an infallible, honest mechanic since the days I lived at home with my dad
who can fix anything.

One other thing to consider is that this list provides an opportunity for
all sorts of folks to listen in and give input. I'm a computer programmer.
You know how often I get the chance to hang out and talk cars with folks
who work with cars or know anything about working on cars? Not very often
any more. I'm probably one of very few computer programmers to do their own
tune-ups and oil changes and wiring and brake jobs (but that could be
because I'm one of very few computer programmers that doesn't make enough
money to be able to have somebody else do it!).

>How many of you have heard the 'net phrase RTF? Read
>the FAQ, the Frequently Asked Questions.

RTF? Why yes, I've heard of it. It stands for Rich Text Format, Microsoft's
stab at standardizing the internal code used by word processing...

>Well, I dont think we have a FAQ.

So you suggest it anyway.

>But we DO have
>service books that serve the same purpose. So READ
>THE DAMN BOOK. If its not there, or you dont understand
>what you read, or you need more help than the books have,
>THEN ask!!!

>- ---------------------------------------------------------------
>Registering guns controlls crime like registering cars controlls
>speeding.

After reading your message, I was not surprised to see this sentiment
expressed in your signature! BTW, "controls" only has one "l".

Thanks for your understanding,

Andy Norris
'89 F250 351

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 09:24:52 -0700
From: Eric Sneed
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - wheel paint

You might try looking at www.eastwood.com they
have quite a bit of resto stuff.

Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: ken haley [SMTP:teacherdad hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 7:20 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - wheel paint

Search out a good shop that can chemically clean, de-oxidize, and
etch the
wheels. Then apply a good quality powder colorcoat/clearcoat finish.
I have
a set of wheels finished thusly on one of my Mustangs, and even dog
urine
washes right off.

Ken

Gun control is hitting what you shoot at.

______________________________________________________
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http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 13:15:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Mark F. Burgo ( Mark F. Burgo"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Codes on 88' F350 CrewCab Dually

Hello all,

I have been having a slight problem with my F350. The "Check Engine"
light comes on when the vehical is not towing and just after reaching proper
temperature. I attempted to read the KOEO codes but I get no response in this
configuration. I can get codes with the KOER status modes. Does anyone have
an explanation as to why I get nothing with the KOEO settings....


Thank you,


Mark
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 12:42:38 -0500
From: "wEbDoC"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Crank/Rod Bearing Replacement

Steve,

This was a 351W. Put a block under the oil pan and raise it high enough to
get some blocking between the motor mounts and frame. And you'll need to
drop the Y-pipe to get enough clearance to get the oil pan out the back
side. It's probably a lot easier to do by pulling the engine, but we never
do anything the easy way here in Arkansas. Good luck.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Schmeckpeper
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Crank/Rod Bearing Replacement


>Congrat's on the overhaul :^) I remember when you first mentioned that you
>were going change bearings and was waiting to see how it went. Also one of
>the other listers (Azie?) said he'd done this a few times with good
results.
>
>I am considering replacing my main and rod bearings too. The engine still
>has plenty of power but it's got a vibration that gets worse under load at
>~2000 RPM's, and the oil pressure is on the low side. It has 135k miles and
>the previous owners did not treat it kindly. Did you have to pull the
engine
>to do this or just raise it up a couple inches? Mine is a 87 F150 EFI 302
>T18.
>TIA
>Smeck
>
>----- Original Message -----
> BTW, thanks to those (especially Blake) who took the time to comment on
the
>> advantages/disadvantages of replacing the bearings while changing out the
>> oil pump. Changed the mains, the connecting rod bearings and replaced
the
>> std oil pump with a high volume one. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Probably added
>> years to the life of this engine before a complete rebuild.
>>
>> Doc
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 17:25:28 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: 460 vs. 302 mileage

OX wrote:

> So your saying I'm going to get 8??

> OX


No Ox, pretty much what I'm saying is since I have to Foot and Rev my 302 a
lot to get my nearly 6000 pound beast out of the way of the yuppies. I
figure I could still get 12+ with a 460, since a tiptoe will work where a
steel toe is needed now, or I could use tire smoke to scare 'em!!!

Come on man, we're all having fun here... right?

Dave H.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 14:23:08 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 460 vs. 302 mileage

Dave Harmier wrote:
>
> OX wrote:
>
> > So your saying I'm going to get 8??
>
> > OX
>
> No Ox, pretty much what I'm saying is since I have to Foot and Rev my 302 a
> lot to get my nearly 6000 pound beast out of the way of the yuppies. I
> figure I could still get 12+ with a 460, since a tiptoe will work where a
> steel toe is needed now, or I could use tire smoke to scare 'em!!!
>

Heeheehee, not sure on the tire smoke. I had a hard time not spinning
the tires on takeoff in the 93 std cab 460 F350 I drove, but this ext
cab with 460 feels less powerfull. Not sure on gear difference and I'm
sure weight is not helping. I did not mash it from a dead stop, but I
will :-). Anyway, I'm hoping for 12!!! (thats MPG, not 1/4 mile time,
although that'd be nice too)

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 12:31:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Perry
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Strange oi leak

List people,

Can anyone tell me if they have had problems with high
level oil leaks on a 302 small block. My '82 F150 with
an '84 Mustang lump has been dropping more and more
oil on the road outside the house, so I'm trying to
track the problem. Got the engine degreased on
Saturday and had it sat idling for ages - no leak.
Took it round the block, raised the rear end - no
leaks. Went out on about a 8 mile run in the afternoon
and oil was back over the left rocker (looking from
the front), leads, fender and manifold. No obvious
source and it wouldn't add to the mess on idle.
Cleaned again and Sunday morning ran the engine from
cold on fast idle for 10-15 minutes - no leak.

Oil level is within markers on dipstick but the
dipstick is the area I'm suspicious of. Other than
removing the hood and having someone sit on the fender
looking for leaks while I drive around, I'm baffled as
to the source of the problem.

Does the 302 like blowing oil up the dipstick ?
Any advice gratefully received. Is the oil pressure
gauge one of those that reads on startup, then swithes
itself off - or is this another problem in the making.

Gary
Gilbert, AZ


=====

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 13:00:01 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Codes on 88' F350 CrewCab Dually

The KOEO codes are stored, and will be there until problem solved or battery
disconnected.

The KOER codes are dynamic, they'll come and go as the sensor sees the fault and
then it clears. If it is a hard code it'll store it and it will show up in the
KOEO codes.

Bob


"Mark F. Burgo ( Mark F. Burgo" wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I have been having a slight problem with my F350. The "Check Engine"
> light comes on when the vehical is not towing and just after reaching proper
> temperature. I attempted to read the KOEO codes but I get no response in this
> configuration. I can get codes with the KOER status modes. Does anyone have
> an explanation as to why I get nothing with the KOEO settings....
>
> Thank you,
>
> Mark
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 15:03:53 -0500
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Strange oi leak

Check the PCV valve it might be clogged ;^)
Smeck
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Perry
To:
Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 2:31 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Strange oi leak


> Does the 302 like blowing oil up the dipstick ?



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 16:37:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Mark F. Burgo ( Mark F. Burgo"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Codes on 88' F350 CrewCab Dually

Bob,

So you are telling me that this is normal. The codes I have see with
the KOER are for the O2 sensor stating the system is running rich and for the
EGR not operating. Had a bad vacume line that I replaced but still continues
the check engine light and will be diagnosing again this evening or on tuesday.
I really want to find this so that I can get the truck running without an
check light. This is with a 351W engine and C6 Tranny.. I am concerned that
if left running rich I will have a bigger problem down the road.

Thanks for your help....

Mark
On 25-Oct-99 Bob Kennedy wrote:
> The KOEO codes are stored, and will be there until problem solved or battery
> disconnected.
>
> The KOER codes are dynamic, they'll come and go as the sensor sees the fault
> and
> then it clears. If it is a hard code it'll store it and it will show up in
> the
> KOEO codes.
>
> Bob
>
>
> "Mark F. Burgo ( Mark F. Burgo" wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I have been having a slight problem with my F350. The "Check
>> Engine"
>> light comes on when the vehical is not towing and just after reaching proper
>> temperature. I attempted to read the KOEO codes but I get no response in
>> this
>> configuration. I can get codes with the KOER status modes. Does anyone
>> have
>> an explanation as to why I get nothing with the KOEO settings....
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>> Mark
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 13:37:29 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Crank/Rod Bearing Replacement

Doc,
Did you plastigauge the old bearings or just get some .010 oversize? How did you
know what size bearings to go with?

I know, I know...questions.

Thanks,


Bob


wEbDoC wrote:

> Steve,
>
> This was a 351W. Put a block under the oil pan and raise it high enough to
> get some blocking between the motor mounts and frame. And you'll need to
> drop the Y-pipe to get enough clearance to get the oil pan out the back
> side. It's probably a lot easier to do by pulling the engine, but we never
> do anything the easy way here in Arkansas. Good luck.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Schmeckpeper
> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
> Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 9:06 AM
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Crank/Rod Bearing Replacement
>
> >Congrat's on the overhaul :^) I remember when you first mentioned that you
> >were going change bearings and was waiting to see how it went. Also one of
> >the other listers (Azie?) said he'd done this a few times with good
> results.
> >
> >I am considering replacing my main and rod bearings too. The engine still
> >has plenty of power but it's got a vibration that gets worse under load at
> >~2000 RPM's, and the oil pressure is on the low side. It has 135k miles and
> >the previous owners did not treat it kindly. Did you have to pull the
> engine
> >to do this or just raise it up a couple inches? Mine is a 87 F150 EFI 302
> >T18.
> >TIA
> >Smeck
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> > BTW, thanks to those (especially Blake) who took the time to comment on
> the
> >> advantages/disadvantages of replacing the bearings while changing out the
> >> oil pump. Changed the mains, the connecting rod bearings and replaced
> the
> >> std oil pump with a high volume one. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Probably added
> >> years to the life of this engine before a complete rebuild.
> >>
> >> Doc
> >
> >
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 16:22:28 -0500
From: "wEbDoC"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Crank/Rod Bearing Replacement

Good question. I bought std and plastigauged them. Got lucky and they were
all within tolerence. To be sure guess you could get one of each size and
check them before you bought the whole lot. Anyone have any ideas?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Kennedy
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 3:56 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Crank/Rod Bearing Replacement


>Doc,
>Did you plastigauge the old bearings or just get some .010 oversize? How
did you
>know what size bearings to go with?
>
>I know, I know...questions.
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Bob
>
>
>wEbDoC wrote:
>
>> Steve,
>>
>> This was a 351W. Put a block under the oil pan and raise it high enough
to
>> get some blocking between the motor mounts and frame. And you'll need to
>> drop the Y-pipe to get enough clearance to get the oil pan out the back
>> side. It's probably a lot easier to do by pulling the engine, but we
never
>> do anything the easy way here in Arkansas. Good luck.
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Steve Schmeckpeper
>> To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>> Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 9:06 AM
>> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Crank/Rod Bearing Replacement
>>
>> >Congrat's on the overhaul :^) I remember when you first mentioned that
you
>> >were going change bearings and was waiting to see how it went. Also one
of
>> >the other listers (Azie?) said he'd done this a few times with good
>> results.
>> >
>> >I am considering replacing my main and rod bearings too. The engine
still
>> >has plenty of power but it's got a vibration that gets worse under load
at
>> >~2000 RPM's, and the oil pressure is on the low side. It has 135k miles
and
>> >the previous owners did not treat it kindly. Did you have to pull the
>> engine
>> >to do this or just raise it up a couple inches? Mine is a 87 F150 EFI
302
>> >T18.
>> >TIA
>> >Smeck
>> >
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> > BTW, thanks to those (especially Blake) who took the time to comment on
>> the
>> >> advantages/disadvantages of replacing the bearings while changing out
the
>> >> oil pump. Changed the mains, the connecting rod bearings and replaced
>> the
>> >> std oil pump with a high volume one. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Probably
added
>> >> years to the life of this engine before a complete rebuild.
>> >>
>> >> Doc
>> >
>> >
>> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>>
>> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 14:36:25 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Codes on 88' F350 CrewCab Dually

Ahhhhhhh, more input.

The O2 sensor condition is important, the fact it doesn't generate a KOEO code
doesn't matter. You need to verify this one quickly.

Are you at normal operating temperature when you run the tests? This is important.
The O2 sensor as well as the EGR do not operate at start up. A default value is
used.

Check and make sure there is vacuum present on the EGR, I've taken mine off and
cleaned it with solvent, put it back together no codes.

The O2 sensor will cause problems with running rough if it is not functioning
correctly.
It will signal the PCM to either lean out or enrichen the fuel ratio.

Both of these work with the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) the determine fuel/air
ratio for correct engine response.

The fact that the codes do not show up in the KOEO codes is not as important as
getting them remedied since they do show up.

Good Luck

Bob








> Bob,
>
> So you are telling me that this is normal. The codes I have see with
> the KOER are for the O2 sensor stating the system is running rich and for the
> EGR not operating. Had a bad vacume line that I replaced but still continues
> the check engine light and will be diagnosing again this evening or on tuesday.
> I really want to find this so that I can get the truck running without an
> check light. This is with a 351W engine and C6 Tranny.. I am concerned that
> if left running rich I will have a bigger problem down the road.
>
> Thanks for your help....
>
> Mark
> On 25-Oct-99 Bob Kennedy wrote:
> > The KOEO codes are stored, and will be there until problem solved or battery
> > disconnected.
> >
> > The KOER codes are dynamic, they'll come and go as the sensor sees the fault
> > and
> > then it clears. If it is a hard code it'll store it and it will show up in
> > the
> > KOEO codes.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > "Mark F. Burgo ( Mark F. Burgo" wrote:
> >
> >> Hello all,
> >>
> >> I have been having a slight problem with my F350. The "Check
> >> Engine"
> >> light comes on when the vehical is not towing and just after reaching proper
> >> temperature. I attempted to read the KOEO codes but I get no response in
> >> this
> >> configuration. I can get codes with the KOER status modes. Does anyone
> >> have
> >> an explanation as to why I get nothing with the KOEO settings....
> >>
> >> Thank you,
> >>
> >> Mark
> >> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 14:57:14 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oregon Grumbling & Read the *$# book

Andy,

You've raised a good point, but as a teacher I must say that there really is
such a thing as a stupid question. Actually, there are 2 types of stupid
questions:

1) Asking a question and not listening to the answer, and

2) Asking a question and denying the validity of the response.

Ken

"It is impossible to defeat an ignorant man in argument."
-William G. McAdoo

"There are only two truly infinite things, the universe and stupidity. And I
am unsure about the universe."
-Albert Einstein

"Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level then beat you
with experience."
-unknown


"Don't argue with a fool. The spectators can't tell the difference." -
Charles j. Nalin


"Don't quote me, think for yourself!" - Unknown


______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 09:19:21 +1000
From: les williams
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 460 vs. 302 mileage

Dave Harmier wrote:

> I have to Foot and Rev my 302 a
> lot to get my nearly 6000 pound beast out of the way of the yuppies. I
> figure I could still get 12+ with a 460, since a tiptoe will work where a
> steel toe is needed now,

> or I could use tire smoke to scare 'em!!!
>
> Come on man, we're all having fun here... right?
>
> Dave H.
>

Warning : The following message has absolutely nothing to do with 460 vs 302
mileage !!

The tyre smoke is O.K. BUT I'm sure the manual will not approve of breaking
traction and smokin' the tyres.( Hey, I did spell it right, this originates
from Oz, we don't have 'tired' tyres, buggered yes, tired ? no.) Better yet,
install one of those fuel injector kits that dump a squirt of raw fuel into the
exhaust system, as you give it the big message. This is NOT an approved Ford
Kit, and modifying your exhaust system from stock could could render you liable
to prosecution under... Bla, Bla, You know the rest.... It is especially
spectacular at night if you have side-pipes exiting just behind the side steps
!!! It really pisses the yuppies off because they are not quite sure if they
have sustained any body/paint damage, till they stop and look !! ....yeah,
yeah, I know, Totally irresponsible, delinquent, unsociable bloody small minded
behaviour. Bla, Bla, Bla ...Yep...I'm havin' so much FUN.....

Regards

Les
Lost in the Land of OZ.


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 15:33:33 -0800
From: "Stefan Rearden"
Subject: [none]

Hey all,
I'm having a problem with my 96 300 I-6. I'm getting a leaking sound
(pshhhh...pshhhh...pshhhh - like) coming from somewhere near the rear intake
side of the engine. It has been getting progressively worse over time. It
correlates to the rpm of the engine and amount of power applied. I have
replaced the exhaust and intake manifold gaskets, checked compression on the
cylinders and still haven't been able to isolate the problem. The
compression on the number 1 and number 4 cylinders were 110 and 120 before
adding oil, then 155 and 140 afterwards. All other cylinders were around
140 psi. The engine only has about 40,000 miles on it. Could it be
something to do with the vacuum system? Any suggestions or ideas would be
appreciated.
Stefan Rearden
Fairbanks, AK
Email: fssbr uaf.edu


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 16:44:04 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: 460 vs. 302 mileage

Les,

This has nothing to do with 460 vs. 302 mileage, either.

Be sure the yuppie is not driving a car with a judiciary or congressional
(or whatever your poli-biz people call themselves in head-stand land) plate
before you smoke 'em.

My brother loaded his windshield washers with disappearing ink, twisted the
nozzles sideways, and blasted a congressman's wife right in her brand new
Lincoln. heeheehee She didn't think him a bit funny. It only cost $150 to
bail him out, and $100 for towing and impoundment. What can I say, he drives
a Chevy?

Of course, it wasn't half as expensive as the time he used his tailpipe for
a skyrocket launcher and it went in the driver's window and out the
passenger's window of an unmarked police car on a stake out, but that's
another story.

Are we having fun, yet?

Ken

The one who never forgets, and never let's his brother forget, either.

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 19:23:38 -0500
From: "Ed Mount"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - You have to get up oily

Mike,
I'm curious, which oils do come from the same location? And which ones are
true Appalachian origin? Is Pennzoil? Why is an oil rated for diesel not
good for gas engines, and vice versa? (Or is that true?)

Ed

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Persell
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - My oily opinion...
>
>|
>|You'd be amazed how many name brand oils all come from the same refining
location.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 20:32:55 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: FTE 80-96 - How about reading the repair book FIRST?

>
> Date: 24 Oct 1999 23:00:59 -0700
> From: "David W"
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - How about reading the repair book FIRST?
>
> As a subscriber to this mailing list for several months, I keep
> seeing people ask questions that would not need to be asked
> if they would simply READ a REPAIR BOOK on their
> #(# !(*#^ *!&# truck! Hayes, Chiltons, Ford, whatever
> repair book you like best. I mean, come on, the damn things
> start at $15 bucks or so. It would save the rest of us from
> having to see (again and again...) "How do I get the code from
> my truck computer" or "Where is the dipstick on my Ranger?"
>
> How many of you have heard the 'net phrase RTF? Read
> the FAQ, the Frequently Asked Questions. FAQ's avoid
> the same inane simple questions again and again.
>
> Well, I dont think we have a FAQ. But we DO have
> service books that serve the same purpose. So READ
> THE DAMN BOOK. If its not there, or you dont understand
> what you read, or you need more help than the books have,
> THEN ask!!!

Yes, RTFM. As a subscriber, you received an email when you
joined which urged you to read the FAQ and gave the web
site address. Additionally, the bottom of every post has
the following:

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^^^^^^^

From our FAQ:

11. What topics are discussed on the lists?
Any and every topic relating to Ford trucks. Questions have
ranged from restoring antiques, building motors, mud flaps,
modern EFI and diesels to hauling with a 1998 F250. Questions
are encouraged. If it's Ford truck related - it's welcome.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Not everyone here can get a manual, especially since we
have MANY students here. Additionally, this site is meant
to be a resource for answers. Without questions and
answers there wouldn't be any point in having the site and
the mailing lists.

If you feel that there are questions which are better answered
with a document, feel free to volunteer to write one. We've
had many people who have submitted items which can be found
in the tech article and forum sections of the web site.

I urge you to read the FAQ, remember: RTFM!!!!

I'm not saying this out of any sense of keeping the list traffic
going. As a matter of fact, I would do better financially if
the lists weren't around because we sell the manuals! I'd
rather have the lists and the fellowship than a few bucks from
the manuals.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com
PS - Wayne Foy, please email me!


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 18:00:28 -0700
From: "J.S.H"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 2wd Bronco

>BTW, the 83 Bronco 2WD conversion is done, and it rides and handles
>nice--just like a '79 F-150 4x4 I had years ago.

Congrats,glad it worked out for you.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 21:55:18 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - You have to get up oily

>Mike,
>I'm curious, which oils do come from the same location? And which ones are
>true Appalachian origin? Is Pennzoil? Why is an oil rated for diesel not
>good for gas engines, and vice versa? (Or is that true?)
>
>Ed

Many of the Pennsylvania oil companie used to put "Made from 100% Pure
Pennsylvania Grade Crude Oil" right on their cans. As far as I know, the
only one now making that guarantee is the Brad-Penn motor oil made by
American Refining Group at the old Kendall Refinery in Bradford
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amref.com/Default.htm .

The traditional Pennsylvania motor oils are: Pennzoil, Quaker State, Wolf's
Head, Valvoline, Amalie, Kendall, and several others that are gone now.

The Amalie Refinery at Franklin, Pa. burned down in the 1960s and the name
was purchased by Witco Chemical and combined with their Kendall line at
Bradford, Pa. Witco has since recently sold their refinery and these two
product lines to other companies. Kendall is now owned by Sun Refining and
is now made at Sun's refinery in eastern Pennsylvania from non-Pennsylvania
crude.

Pennzoil and Quaker State have both moved their corporated offices out of
Pennsylvania, though Pennzoil motor oil and its branch line Wolf's Head
motor oil are still made at their Rouseville refinery along Oil Creek
across the creek from the oldest producing oilwell in the world (1860).

Quaker State has sold its refineries at Farmer's Valley, Pa. and Emlenton,
Pa., and closed the refinery at St. Marys, WV. I am not sure where it now
makes its motor oil.

United Refining in Warren, Pa is the largest refinery in western
Pennsylvania, but they now refine African crude. They are set up for
Pennsylvania crude, but they can not get enough volume to meet their
capacity. They import the African crude because it is the closest oil in
the world to Pa Crude in its composition.

Valvoline started out south of Oil City along the Allegheny River, but has
now been bought by Ashland Petroleum and I believe their current refinery
is in Ashland, Kentucky. Marathon (originally the Ohio Oil Co.) now owns
part of Ashland.


Most motor oils currently made for diesels are ok for gasoline engines too.
Look at the "S" ratings for gas; "C" ratings for diesel. The higher the
letter after the S or C in the alphabet, the higher standards that oil
meets.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 21:59:52 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - wheel paint

>Search out a good shop that can chemically clean, de-oxidize, and etch the
>wheels. Then apply a good quality powder colorcoat/clearcoat finish. I have
>a set of wheels finished thusly on one of my Mustangs, and even dog urine
>washes right off.
>

I agree with Ken. Powder coat is the way to go and very cheap! Make sure
they pretreat the steel properly first- that is the whole secret to keep
the coating from peeling. You also must use a urethane to keep the sun from
fading the color.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 00:16:07 -0400
From: "Theodore D. Mills"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Strange oi leak

Did you check for the rear seal under the intake manifold leaking?

All it is is a rubber strip that sits on the edge of the lifter valley.
A really crummy design really....

I thing I saw or read somewhere that just using a bead of silicone sealer
works better.
Not sure if I saw it on TV or read it here....

My fater-in-law's 90 Town Car w/302 was leaking oil all over and all we
could tell was that it was in the back of the engine somewhere.





At 12:31 10/25/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>List people,
>
>Can anyone tell me if they have had problems with high
>level oil leaks on a 302 small block. My '82 F150 with
>an '84 Mustang lump has been dropping more and more
>oil on the road outside the house, so I'm trying to
>track the problem. Got the engine degreased on
>Saturday and had it sat idling for ages - no leak.
>Took it round the block, raised the rear end - no
>leaks. Went out on about a 8 mile run in the afternoon
>and oil was back over the left rocker (looking from
>the front), leads, fender and manifold. No obvious
>source and it wouldn't add to the mess on idle.
>Cleaned again and Sunday morning ran the engine from
>cold on fast idle for 10-15 minutes - no leak.
>
>Oil level is within markers on dipstick but the
>dipstick is the area I'm suspicious of. Other than
>removing the hood and having someone sit on the fender
>looking for leaks while I drive around, I'm baffled as
>to the source of the problem.
>
>Does the 302 like blowing oil up the dipstick ?
>Any advice gratefully received. Is the oil pressure
>gauge one of those that reads on startup, then swithes
>itself off - or is this another problem in the making.
>
>Gary
>Gilbert, AZ
>
>
>=====
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
Ted
84 Mustang GT (in pieces)
85 Ranger 2WD 2.8L
91 F250 4X4X460
94 Taurus LX wagon 3.8L


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