From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #299
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80-96-list-digest Monday, October 25 1999 Volume 03 : Number 299



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Where is the ACT sensor...Come on Guys...A Little Help!!!!!
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Shell Rotella 15w40
FTE 80-96 - Re: Uneven acceleration
FTE 80-96 - Grumbling in Oregon
Re: FTE 80-96 - Where is the ACT sensor...Come on Guys...A Little Help!!!!!
FTE 80-96 - O2 sensor/heater solved!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Sway Bar
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Uneven acceleration
FTE 80-96 - Re: Re: FTE: 80-96 uneven acceleration
Re: FTE 80-96 - Where is the ACT sensor...Come on Guys...A Little Help!!!!!
FTE 80-96 - Change truck computer settings for mods?
FTE 80-96 - ROTFLMAO
Re: FTE 80-96 - Change truck computer settings for mods?
FTE 80-96 - RE: 10w-40 vs 10w-30 vs 15w40
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Shell Rotella 15w40
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Free t-shirt and window sticker
FTE 80-96 - RE: Sway Bar
FTE 80-96 - My oily opinion...
FTE 80-96 - Oil Additives & Filters
Re: FTE 80-96 - My oily opinion...
FTE 80-96 - 7.3 diesel
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Web site updates
Re: FTE 80-96 - 93-95 Lightning Gauge Cluster
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Re: FTE: 80-96 uneven acceleration
Re: FTE 80-96 - ROTFLMAO
FTE 80-96 - Big Tires
Re: FTE 80-96 - My oily opinion...
FTE 80-96 - F250 Diesel with Banks
FTE 80-96 - How about reading the repair book FIRST?

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 06:36:33 -0500
From: "Rob Sartorius"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Where is the ACT sensor...Come on Guys...A Little Help!!!!!

2nd Request
My neighbor just bought a 1994 F-150 4x4 302 auto and we ran codes and got
113 and 172.
I can't seem to find the ACT(Air Charge Temp) sensor? Anybody know where
that rascal is? I found the O2 sensor and its easy to get to so no problem
there?

ROB Sartorius
1984 F-150 351 3sp Auto
Edmond, OK


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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 08:40:58 -0500
From: "Ed Mount"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Shell Rotella 15w40

Blake,
I don't know enough about oil to fill a hat, but a few years back there was
a big stink about automobile manufacturers advising you to quit using 10w-40
and go to 10w-30, for some reason the 10w-40 was not good, so I made the
switch. Then they started saying use 5w-30 in colder weather, so I did
that. ( I have had good luck with engine wear, but it is probably more that
I change regularly and am pretty easy on the foot pedal.) I just reasoned
that 15W-40 violates both these precepts.

It is hard to find people like you and Mike who know something about the
subject. I know never to blindly accept the oil companies advice, they are
trying to sell something.

I like this topic, because I feel I am about to be educated.

Ed


- -----Original Message-----
From: Blake Malkamaki
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 3:36 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Shell Rotella 15w40


|>I wonder if this oil can be used in my F150. The engine calls for
|>10w30, but I have 5w30 in it now. Maybe this is why it sounds like a
|>diesel at idle. It just sounds very different. Does anybody else have
|>this? It is a 96 f150, with the 302, 76k miles. Other than that I love
|>the truck, and want to put an exhaust on it, something with a bit of a
|>sound to it, but not to loud, where it will drone in the cab.
|>Thanks,
|>Rich in CT
|
|I would never use 5w30 in an engine. I think this is a sceme to get
|slightly better milage at startup to increase the fleet overall mpg to meet
|epa requirments. I think the stuff is just too darn thin. The best part of
|the 15w40 is not its weight, but the fact that it is a better oil made to
|higher specifications. You can also buy the same oil in SAE 10 or SAE 30
|and probably more grades. Mainly you look for at least an SF-CD rating. S
|for "gas", C for "diesel" qualifications.
|
|
|Blake
|Little Mountain
|Concord, Ohio
|Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
|http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
|http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
|"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
|"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."
|
|
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|

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 06:38:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: rokkinhorse webtv.net
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Uneven acceleration

Tony writes:
I would like to know the like that you have for instructions on pulling
computer codes.
you can send it here or just e-mail to me at aphaneuf home.com would
appreciate it...........
Tony P. >> OK Tony and others,as requested here you go.(I hope I
don't screw this up) If the link doesn't work,you can find this info on
the FAQ of Off-road.coms' site:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.off -road. com /4x4web/ford/bigbroncos/tech/trouble.htm
You will note on this site that no special tools or equipment are needed
to retieve the codes.The book "Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine
Control" by Charles O. Probst is an -invalueable- resource for owners of
Ford vehicles equipped with EFI EEC-4. Even if you don't do your own
mech work,this book is awesome in it's coverage of funamentals of
operation and how the system operates. If you DO your own wrenching and
troubleshooting,there is the most extensive coverage of code explanation
that I have seen any place,in both two and three-digit formats.It also
covers different variations or generations of the EEC systems; I used it
to diagnose some trouble I was having with my 89 Aerostar. This process
for code retrieval is also covered. The cost was around 20 bux.I got
mine from amazon.co m,but have since quit using net book suppliers due
to their "anti-gun" stance.You may want to check your local parts
houses,as some places carry it in the literature section.

Randy Goolsby-94 Bronco EB/85 F250 4x4

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 07:07:05 -0700
From: "Ken Brayton"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Grumbling in Oregon

I have a favor to ask the participants of this list. When
you reply to messages, please consider snipping off all but
the most relevant portion of the message you are responding
to (if you already do this, thanks!). For those of us on the
digest version of this list, it gets pretty tedious wading
through page after page of repeated messages trying to find
the new info buried in there somewhere. It is especially bad
when the reply contains the reply of the last 3 or 4 (or
more) messages. As long as you reference the senders name
and subject line and perhaps a relevant sentence or two,
it's pretty easy to follow the thread of discussion. I hope
you understand where I'm coming from and won't be offended
by this suggestion.

Thank you,

Ken Brayton
Albany, Oregon

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 09:05:50 -0500
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Where is the ACT sensor...Come on Guys...A Little Help!!!!!

On my 87 it's on the driver's side of the intake manifold, prettymuch in the
center. It has TWO terminals (not to be confused with the engine temp
switch, which has only one). It should measure ~30k ohms cold and ~ 3k ohms
hot (approximate values).
Smeck 87 F150 302 T18

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Sartorius
To: FORD TRUCKS
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 1999 6:36 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Where is the ACT sensor...Come on Guys...A Little
Help!!!!!


> 2nd Request
> My neighbor just bought a 1994 F-150 4x4 302 auto and we ran codes and got
> 113 and 172.
> I can't seem to find the ACT(Air Charge Temp) sensor? Anybody know where
> that rascal is? I found the O2 sensor and its easy to get to so no
problem
> there?
>
> ROB Sartorius
> 1984 F-150 351 3sp Auto
> Edmond, OK
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 09:58:14 -0500
From: "DannyF"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - O2 sensor/heater solved!

This is in regards to my initial post about tracing down the O2
heater circuit for a '90 F150 300-6. No replies but who cares? This
is a DIY(mainly) area anyway. So I did it myself :-}

Symptoms: runs/starts fine w/a very minute,irregular idle. Gas
mileage down to 11-12 MPG and power down slightly. On the
power, lets put it this way; I could tow my 2500 lb boat on a flat
surface in OD(E4OD) doing 65-70 before(3.08 rear). With the
problem, maybe 60 and even a headwind would kick me out of OD!

Anyway, O2 heater showed 0V. O2 heater gets battery voltage
from the dir. signal flasher. Corrected that by replacing fuse...DUH!
Guess I blew it by forgetting to detach the boat trailer light harness
while dunking in the water.

14V now at the O2 heater but .06V steady from O2 when heated
up. Way too low and it should be "cross counting". BTW, my half-
ass Haynes manual says it should be .3-.5V steady. Thats DEAD
WRONG! O2 sensors(90% at least, Ford included) should be
moving back and forth(cross counts) against a .5V medium.
Also, there were NO O2 codes produced by the OBD! If your wholly
relying on the OBD to track faults for you, good luck.

Replaced O2 sensor w/a Bosch($37) from AutoZone and now the
power is restored. Too early to tell on mileage...still measuring.

BTW, anyone measuring O2 voltages on these vintage 300's, don't
go burning your hands/arms underneath the truck. Theres a
convenient 2nd connector that emerges from the battery ground
corrugated plastic right between the battery and starter relay. The
engine will have to be fully warmed up and you will have to "back
probe" the connector.

Danny
Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 09:58:14 -0500
From: "DannyF"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Sway Bar

I don't know what your personal tolerance is for rolling or "sway"
around corners but its going to get worse w/a 4" lift w/o a fr. sway
bar.

Personally, I would either grind a little off the offending area(
or have the bar rebent to clear the coil spring.

Danny


>
> I have a 94 F-150 Xcab with a 4 inch suspension lift. My problem is
> that
> the front sway bar is rubbing on the front springs. The shop that
> installed
> the left said I can remove the sway bar to stop the rubbing. Does anyone
> know how this will affect handling. It is a 2wd and I don't do any off
> road
> driving. Any help or suggestions is appreciated.
>
> Thanks


Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 08:47:47 -0700
From: "Tony & Chris Phaneuf"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Uneven acceleration

Randy........
thanks alot for the info......
will be put to good use

Tony P.
- -----Original Message-----
From: rokkinhorse webtv.net
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 6:47 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Uneven acceleration


Tony writes:
I would like to know the like that you have for instructions on pulling
computer codes.
you can send it here or just e-mail to me at aphaneuf home.com would
appreciate it...........
Tony P. >> OK Tony and others,as requested here you go.(I hope I
don't screw this up) If the link doesn't work,you can find this info on
the FAQ of Off-road.coms' site:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.off -road. com /4x4web/ford/bigbroncos/tech/trouble.htm
You will note on this site that no special tools or equipment are needed
to retieve the codes.The book "Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine
Control" by Charles O. Probst is an -invalueable- resource for owners of
Ford vehicles equipped with EFI EEC-4. Even if you don't do your own
mech work,this book is awesome in it's coverage of funamentals of
operation and how the system operates. If you DO your own wrenching and
troubleshooting,there is the most extensive coverage of code explanation
that I have seen any place,in both two and three-digit formats.It also
covers different variations or generations of the EEC systems; I used it
to diagnose some trouble I was having with my 89 Aerostar. This process
for code retrieval is also covered. The cost was around 20 bux.I got
mine from amazon.co m,but have since quit using net book suppliers due
to their "anti-gun" stance.You may want to check your local parts
houses,as some places carry it in the literature section.

Randy Goolsby-94 Bronco EB/85 F250 4x4

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 09:01:11 -0700
From: "Dennis"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Re: FTE: 80-96 uneven acceleration

Randy, thanks for the response, the link to the code reading site would be
appreciated. What does OBD stand for?(On Board ?) Someone else mentioned a
kit for the IAC, is this the Idle Air Control valve. I have a code scanner
but have only done the Key On Engine Off test and returned a 33, which
corresponded to the egr. Ken said to replace all vacuum lines, sounds like a
good idea, but is it ok to replace those hard plastic lines with regular
vacuum hose? Are O2 and TPS problems stored in continious memory?

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 10:59:36 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Where is the ACT sensor...Come on Guys...A Little Help!!!!!

Look for the ACT usually in the air cleaner or Fuel charging assembly of CFI
engines. In MFI engines it may be in the manifold and may be called Manifold
Charge Temperature. (MCT).

The Wire to it (for 86-87) is yellow/red.

All the info I have is for my 86. So, the location info, wire color may be a
little off.

Bob


Rob Sartorius wrote:

> 2nd Request
> My neighbor just bought a 1994 F-150 4x4 302 auto and we ran codes and got
> 113 and 172.
> I can't seem to find the ACT(Air Charge Temp) sensor? Anybody know where
> that rascal is? I found the O2 sensor and its easy to get to so no problem
> there?
>
> ROB Sartorius
> 1984 F-150 351 3sp Auto
> Edmond, OK
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 12:18:52 PDT
From: 2insane excite.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Change truck computer settings for mods?

When you do some modifications on your vehicle, performance wise, i heard
your supposed to disconnect the battery or the truck's computer to have it
be recalibrated or something. Is this just for major mods like a new cam and
heads or would u have to do this for something just like a stock exhuast to
a straight pipe (which i did) or a K&N filter (which i'm going to do) ?
Also, how do u do this? any tips or tricks? i have a 89 f-150 302.

thanks.




________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 12:25:12 PDT
From: 2insane excite.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ROTFLMAO

- ----------------------
One of my Broncos has a 302, 180 degree thermostat, manual trans, 3.55 twin

grip, no A/C, and no fan at all. It's main uses are to tow the high school
color gaurd trailer and get around when snow and ice are on the roads.
Today's trip was 284 miles round trip, and the temp gauge never got over 1/3

from cold.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

no fan?? shouldn't that overheat easily or am i missing something? is it any
more powerful with no fan drag on the engine?





________________________________________________________________
Get FREE voicemail, fax and email at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://voicemail.excite.com
Talk online at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://voicechat.excite.com
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 15:38:59 EDT
From: Rich161763 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Change truck computer settings for mods?

you have to disconect the battery for installing electronical parts but i'm
not sure about other things.
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 15:27:29 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Mike Persell"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: 10w-40 vs 10w-30 vs 15w40

On Sun, 24 Oct 1999 08:40:58 -0500, Ed Mount wrote:
>Blake,
>I don't know enough about oil to fill a hat, but a few years back there was
>a big stink about automobile manufacturers advising you to quit using 10w-40
>and go to 10w-30, for some reason the 10w-40 was not good, so I made the
>switch. Then they started saying use 5w-30 in colder weather, so I did
>that. ( I have had good luck with engine wear, but it is probably more that
>I change regularly and am pretty easy on the foot pedal.) I just reasoned
>that 15W-40 violates both these precepts.

15w-40 began to get popular because of the 10w-40 fiasco at GM in the early to mid 80s
when GM discovered that 10w-40 engines had more warranty claims than 30wt engines.
Further research showed that to make a 10wt oil act like a 40wt at 200 deg F, it required
a risky amount of viscosity index improver. The excess VI improver would collect
around the upper rings of the newer lean burning computer controlled engines. The
upper ring temp can run around 1700 deg F and the VI improver would lock up the rings
rather than let them move in and out of the grooves of the pistons. This caused
extremely high wear and cost GM a bunch in warranty engines on fleets.

The 2 alternatives were 10w-30 and 15w-40. Now remember that a multi weight oil is
actually the thinner of the two numbers for a base oil and enough VI improver
(thickening polymers) added to make it "act" like the thicker oil at 200 deg F. As your
engine gets a few years on it you need to help it along with a little thicker oil.

Todays Indy cars actually run really thin oils like a 0wt oil but they throw that engine
away after the race. The slickest oil we can run is a straight weight like 30wt but that
doesn't always cut it in the winter. The best compromise is a good base that has
acceptable winter characteristics and doesn't require an excessive amount of VI
improver to last under heat and load. 15w-40 works out well for V-6 and V-8 powered
trucks that run either gas or diesel.

Mike

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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 16:29:08 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: Shell Rotella 15w40

>Blake,
>I don't know enough about oil to fill a hat, but a few years back there was
>a big stink about automobile manufacturers advising you to quit using 10w-40
>and go to 10w-30, for some reason the 10w-40 was not good, so I made the
>switch. Then they started saying use 5w-30 in colder weather, so I did
>that. ( I have had good luck with engine wear, but it is probably more that
>I change regularly and am pretty easy on the foot pedal.) I just reasoned
>that 15W-40 violates both these precepts.
>
>It is hard to find people like you and Mike who know something about the
>subject. I know never to blindly accept the oil companies advice, they are
>trying to sell something.
>
>I like this topic, because I feel I am about to be educated.
>
>Ed

Someone mentioned before... and it might have been Mike... that in order
for an oil to be mult-viscosity there needs to be a polymer added that
thickens as the oil gets hotter. This polymer makes up for the thinning of
the oil itself, thereby giving a higher viscosity at a higher temperature
than a single-weight oil would.

The problem is that the polymer that is added to the oil actually displaces
some of the oil, hence displacing some of the lubricating properties of the
oil, making the oil less desireable as a lubricant.

That is why 10w-30 is better than 10w-40 -- less spread.

Now I know 15w-40 has more spread than 10w-30, but overall it is just a
better breed of oil because it is made for a commercial application rather
for the general run-of-the-mill puplic's automobile.

Perhaps Mike could elaborate on this more.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 18:34:06 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Free t-shirt and window sticker

The web site is getting stale so we've decided to give
a free t-shirt and window sticker to anyone who submits
an item we publish on the web site. Anyone who has
submitted anything since the 1st of October will also
get a t-shirt and sticker. Details can be found at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/free.html

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 17:27:35 -0700
From: "Kevin Crandall"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Sway Bar

Bob and Danny, thanks for the replies. As i was removing my front sway bar
it moved forward while i was removing it and it lined up perfectly. All I
had to do was relocate the hold down brackets on the crossmember and it fit
perfectly. Thanks again for the replies.

Kevin

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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 20:45:22 -0400
From: "Theodore D. Mills"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - My oily opinion...

Very interesting discussion on oil....I hope there is more to come.

As for the 'real world' applications of all this, here is my 2 cents worth.

I have always used a "name brand" oil. Usually what's on sale. Valvoline,
Castrol, Havoline, Pennzoil, most often. The key is the known big name
brand. No K-Mart oil!!

Change religiously at 3000 miles.
Use quality filters. Fram or Motorcraft, for me.

I have used STP in all my cars/trucks.
I know there will most likely be a lot of debate on this one.
My opinion is that STP is just more of the stuff they add to oil anyway. I
have not had any oil related failures that I know of.

Ford replaced the 3.8 in the wife's Taurus last year, but they never told
me what the problems was. I took it in for what I thought was a failing
waterpump or alternator bearing.
I had a rumbling noise when cold that I could'nt quite locate. Imagine my
surprise when the service manager called and said I needed an engine!

On this point.... KEEP GOOD RECORDS!!
I buy oil in case lots for 5 vehicles, who keeps reciepts!

KEEP THOSE RECIEPTS! I will save you much hassle in the event of a warranty
claim.
The dealer accepted the print out from my computer after I dropped a stack
of paper an inch thick on the service counter. I guess the fact that I had
recorded every thing I had done with the car, right down to every drop of
gas that went into it since I bought it helped!

I use a program called Chris's Auto recorder. It can be customized to meet
most requirements for vehicles and other equipment. It's a DOS program, but
it runs fine under WIN95. And it's zero fee shareware.

I use 5W30 in the Taurus, since the new engine is still under warranty. I
had used 10W30 in it prior to the failure.

I still use 10W30 in every thing else year round.
I used 10W30 in winter and 20W50 in summer in my Mustang GT.

The 'stang is apart now for rebuild, but it went 166000 very tough miles
and was thoroughly enjoyed constantly. Nothing really major upon
teardown. Clean inside, no sludge what so ever.
Rod bearings showing wear, but not wiped. Cylinder walls still showing hone
marks.
It never used any oil at all since break in.

I tore it down because I was starting to hear the rod bearing slop, and it
was showing signs of timing chain stretch. I had money at the time, so I
decided to do the whole wad.

Could the clean insides be the STP or just proper attention to oil change
interval?

What are the opinions of the group on 10W30 year round vs 10W30
winter/20W50 summer?

What about additives, such as STP?

What do you folks think?



Ted
84 Mustang GT (in pieces)
85 Ranger 2WD 2.8L
91 F250 4X4X460
94 Taurus LX wagon 3.8L


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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 19:34:47 -0600
From: apowell ezlink.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Oil Additives & Filters

Friends, I recently joined the list. I hesitate to volunteer this note, because it
seems that people have very strong opinions about oils and additives -
whether backed by fact or not.

I personally am not a fan of oil additives except for very specific problems and
in very limited uses. In general, I think it's safe to say that the oil
manufacturers do a superb job of designing their oil chemistry for its intended
use, and additives will only screw it up.

Specifically, Slick 50 and other additives including teflon should be avoided at
all costs. There are two reasons for this:

1) They do not work. The claim is that the teflon bonds to the engine - but
teflon particles will not bond to ANY surface at the operating temperatures in
the oil path; therefore, the teflon particles just float around and you are
wasting money.
2) There is a specific, immediate danger to your engine from running teflon
additives in low-temperature applications. US Military tests have shown that
the teflon particles in these additives can clump in the oil pan at low
temperatures, and can block the oil pump pickup screen! This results in loss
of oil pressure and can mean engine failure.

So especially at this time of year, teflon additives not only don't benefit you,
they can result in catastrophic engine failure.

My own opinion - based on experience since 1977 - is that for heavy service,
and especially for turbocharged vehicles, synthetics such as Mobil 1, Amsoil
and Redline are superior and well worth running. Their superior resistance to
viscosity loss and molecular structure breakdown at high temperatures is
documented by tests run by the companies which sell those oils. I mention
those three brand names because they are the longest-established in the field.

In my 93 F-150 with 103K miles, I'm currently running a synthetic blend oil - in
preparation for changing to full synthetic.


There are also "interesting" discussions related to oil filters in many forums -
for information on the structure of many popular filters, see:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilterstudy.html

From this page, the filter test results page:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilters.html

can be found. The owner has taken apart many filters and comments about
their construction and probable performance.

I personally like Amsoil's oil filters, which have filtering elements almost 1 inch
thick, and which filter down to less than 15 microns. They also have both anti-
drainback valves and bypass valves in every filter.

Hope this doesn't start a oil war....
__
++++++++++++++++++++WSU-CSU+++++++++++++++++
Al Powell
Apowell EZlink.com
1958 Fiat 1200 Spyder "Transformabile"
1983 Datsun 280ZXT
1990 Audi 200
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ezlink.com/~powells/
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 21:08:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Mike Persell"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - My oily opinion...

On Sun, 24 Oct 1999 20:45:22 -0400, Theodore D. Mills wrote:
>I have always used a "name brand" oil. Usually what's on sale. Valvoline,
>Castrol, Havoline, Pennzoil, most often. The key is the known big name
>brand. No K-Mart oil!!

You'd be amazed how many name brand oils all come from the same refining location.

>
>Change religiously at 3000 miles.
>Use quality filters. Fram or Motorcraft, for me.

In the days of open breathing engines the filter played a bigger role than today. If I were
living in the desert I wouldn't trust my engine to any of the filters available on the store
shelf today. There are two principle types of oil filter today for car and light truck use,
surface and depth filtration. In harsh environments I wouldn't trust any surface filter
because it is nothing more than folded paper just like a common air filter. Once a
particle passes through the paper there is a wide open channel for all other
contamination to pass. Oil under pressure finds the path of least resistance.

Another thing that bugs me is that Fram hasn't done anything innovative to filters in the
last 20 years. They put a grip on the outside and think they have revolutionized the
industry. They put an oil soluble tablet of Teflon in the bottom of the filter and think they
have saved the automotive consumer. By the way if you look on the instructions for
Teflon supplied by Dupont they will only recommend using it on a clean, dry and oil
free surface. I like my engines clean but not dry and oil free.

If you look on the side of a conventional cab tractor trailer rig you'll see a big chrome or
colored cannister. That cannister is a bypass filter that traps particles that our cartridge
filters can only dream about. The elelment is made from disks that are compressed
under about 5 tons as I remember. The compressed disks make for great depth filter. A
depth filter makes the particles pass through a filter media deeper than just the
thickness of one layer of paper. Commercial engines don't use the filters our cars and
light trucks use or the owners would go broke in repairs. Our cars and light trucks don't
stress the systems like commercial engines so we can get away with parts store grade
components.

>I have used STP in all my cars/trucks.
>I know there will most likely be a lot of debate on this one.
>My opinion is that STP is just more of the stuff they add to oil anyway. I
>have not had any oil related failures that I know of.

I doubt that you're helping or hurting because of the change interval frequency.

>I use 5W30 in the Taurus, since the new engine is still under warranty. I
>had used 10W30 in it prior to the failure.



>
>I still use 10W30 in every thing else year round.
>I used 10W30 in winter and 20W50 in summer in my Mustang GT.

20w-50 is a killer on engine bottom ends in winter. Now with that stated the bottom end in
a Ford small block is on of the best to come out of Detroit. It is so good that we never
used them in our test lab engines. They will take extreme abuse.

>Could the clean insides be the STP or just proper attention to oil change
>interval?

STP can't clean the insides. The clean insides are from you taking the time and work to
change oil every 3000 miles.

>
>What are the opinions of the group on 10W30 year round vs 10W30
>winter/20W50 summer?

That depends on the climate, age of the engine, bottom end design of the engine, etc.

>
>What about additives, such as STP?

I avoid additives whenever possible. They screw up the characteristics of the oil. If you
ever get a bad batch of oil and they find you have an additive in the pan the
manufacturer of the engine and the oil blender WILL NOT honor the warranty on the oil
and cover the damage. In the early 80s when I was in the business several oil
manufacturers paid out a lot in claims on 10w-40 based engines when GM refused to
honor warranties. A good oil doesn't need any chemical help for a good engine. If you
have a bad engine fix it, don't try to cover it up with additives.

Mike

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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 19:25:45 -0700
From: "Josh"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 7.3 diesel

>>I am looking at a 1993 F250 powerstroke diesel

I didn't think they made a powerstroke in 93...Thought it was just a idi
turbo....?


Josh
berelson NOSPAMgte.net
Edmonds, WA



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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 23:38:07 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Web site updates

Ford Truck Enthusiasts web site updates:

- -Nearly every pictorial section has had at least one truck added
to it.
- -Four articles added to tech articles section.
- -Links section updated.
- -Forum section updated.

Enjoy!

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com


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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 00:05:08 EDT
From: FLR150 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 93-95 Lightning Gauge Cluster

The gauges are direct swap. But if you have the electronic automatic the
Speedo is controlled by several sensors, not just a reduction box. The only
way I know of to change the Speedo reading is to have a chip burnt to cover
it.
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC

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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 21:11:35 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Re: FTE: 80-96 uneven acceleration

Ken said to replace all vacuum lines, sounds like a
>good idea, but is it ok to replace those hard plastic lines with regular
>vacuum hose?

The hard plastic tubing is cheaper than hose when the truck is manufactured.
My detail-crazy neighbor replaces vacuum hoses AND tubing with steel fuel
line and brake tubing, using rubber hose only to hook up the ends and to
allow movement, such as the power brake booster. Sounds a bit extreme for
preventive maintenance, but he NEVER has a vacuum leak and it looks really
nice when the steel tubing is chromed.

BTW, the 83 Bronco 2WD conversion is done, and it rides and handles
nice--just like a '79 F-150 4x4 I had years ago. Heather thanks all for the
help and advice that made it possible for her to get in and out of the
Bronco unassisted.

Ken

Too many toys, not enough money. :-)

______________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 21:24:15 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ROTFLMAO

>
>no fan?? shouldn't that overheat easily or am i missing something? is it
>any
>more powerful with no fan drag on the engine?
>

Fan clutches either engage when hot (thermatic type) or disengage at high
RPM. Flex fans rduce pitch at high RPM to reduce drag. Thermostatically
controlled electric fans are common as dirt today. Basically, if you keep
moving 25+ mph, and don't dump many BTUs on the radiator with A/C and/or
auto trans coolers, the radiator moving through the air (due to vehicle
motion) is sufficient airflow to keep the temp down.

We live in NW Tennessee, and a huge traffic jam might involve 25 cars.
Extended stop-and-go driving just doesn't happen here.

A fan draws 8-16 horsepower at highway speeds, even if the clutch is working
properly. Trashing the fan DOES improve net power, and is much quieter, too.

BUT, if you get stuck in traffic in the city, you are in trouble. I will get
to an auto recycling emporum before spring, though, and snag a couple
electric fans off some recycled C-ration cans from Japan because there will
be an A/C going in over the winter.

Ken


______________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 23:23:03 -0500
From: "Webdoc"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Big Tires

I know this has been covered, and I'm sorry about the redundance, but can
anyone tell me what is the largest tire I can run on my stock F150 without
having to do any body or frame modifications?

BTW, thanks to those (especially Blake) who took the time to comment on the
advantages/disadvantages of replacing the bearings while changing out the
oil pump. Changed the mains, the connecting rod bearings and replaced the
std oil pump with a high volume one. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Probably added
years to the life of this engine before a complete rebuild.

Doc
Email webdoc arkansas.net
"Never knock on Death's door... ring the bell and run. He HATES that!"


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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 21:47:50 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - My oily opinion...

Ted,

Here's my 2 cents on the oil debate:

5W anything makes as much sense as 3-in-1, or maybe WD-40. I won't run it.
That might change if I had starting problems with 10W-30 in an area with
extremely cold weather, but here 10W-30 works fine.

I run 10W-30 year around except if going on a long trip or driving in
extreme conditions, such as towing, combined with air temps over 85. Then I
use 20W-40.

20W-50 gets the nod if several 100 degree plus days are forecast, and I have
extreme driving planned.

I don't like the Appalachian oils, mainly because they seem to build a
yellow tinge to everything quit easily. I use Havoline and Fram, and have
never had an oil-relatd problem. I'm also not thouroughly convinced that
origin of the crude is all that important, except that one sticks with the
same viscosity and manufacturer.

I think you hit the nail on the head by crediting your disciplined
maintenance with the condition of your Mustang internals. I believe clean
oil and filters ARE the key to engine life. Next important is temperature of
the oil. Clean, cool, oil prevents things many bad things from happening.


Ken

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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 22:23:57 -0800
From: David Valentin
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F250 Diesel with Banks

I have a 1993 F250 7.3 diesel with a Banks Power Pack. I have been
tremendously pleased with the performance of the truck. I had the Banks
system installed at about 5K miles (48K now) and it has performed
flawlessly since then.

Dave Valentin
Napa, Ca
Dave Valentin....


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