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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #296
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80-96-list-digest Friday, October 22 1999 Volume 03 : Number 296



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - confused about 302
FTE 80-96 - Rattle, Rattle
Re: FTE 80-96 - 95, F-250
Re: FTE 80-96 - confused about 302
Re: FTE 80-96 - 95, F-250
Re: FTE 80-96 - 93, 460 F-350 vs 94 F-250 turb diesel
FTE 80-96 - Key Problem
FTE 80-96 - RE: 80-96 air bypass valve
FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96- loose steering
Re: FTE 80-96 - 95, F-250
RE: FTE 80-96 - Key Problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - 95, F-250
Re: FTE 80-96 - Key Problem
FTE 80-96 - RE:Any Suggestions???
FTE 80-96 - Anyone with similar problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Anyone with similar problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - confused about 302
FTE 80-96 - Max 302 Engine Temp?
FTE 80-96 - Seeking computer info
Re: FTE 80-96 - Max 302 Engine Temp?
Re: FTE 80-96 - confused about 302
FTE 80-96 - Re:I6-300 on Propane
FTE 80-96 - Re:Throttle Air Bypass Valve
FTE 80-96 - Odd Voltmeter Readings Solved
FTE 80-96 - RE: F-250
FTE 80-96 - Keep looking

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 06:40 -0500
From: Jason D Odor
Subject: FTE 80-96 - confused about 302

I have a problem, I have a 93 F150, 302 and yesterday on the way home from work
it started running really bad. Prior to this it was running good. Well it
idles OK but as soon as I put it in gear in start to idle really low and shack
really bad. When I give it gas, there is not much power, and with more gas it
starts to sound like a Diesel. It doesn't sound like a rod knock or anything
mechanical (I don't think). To top it all off it has a bad "exhaust" smell.
I'm really confused, I changed the plug wires(thinking that all 8 might not be
firing) then I changed the O2 sensor(thinking maybe something with the exhaust
smell). I also noticed that I had some antifreeze leaking from the radiator
area, not much but some. Am I headed up the right track with the sensors, like
maybe a MAP sensor or something, or is it something a lot worse than that. I'm
the type of guy that loves to improve an already good running motor or fix
something that I know is broken, but when it comes to trouble shooting I am
kinda lost. Any and all help would be great, I have learned so much already
on this list, I am looking forward to learning more.

Thanks,
Jason

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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 06:56:38 -0500
From: Craig.Wallace emotors.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rattle, Rattle

> Hey Guys/Gals.
>
> Don't know if anybody has mentioned this at all in the last week or so.
> Been having problems uns*cribing/re-s*cribing, but all is well, now.
> Anyway, I brought up a rattle some time back and was informed that it
> could possibly be the screen/cage on the converter or muffler. Never came
> to a conclusion that that's what it was. Couldn't reproduce the rattle
> while parked....which brings me to my latest discovery. It seems to be at
> lower RPMs when slowing down to make a turn, when backing up into a
> parking space, or even taking off from a stop sign/light. I was finally
> able to reproduce the rattle while parked the other day. I had a bright
> idea to finally try revving up the motor in gear with the brake on and
> "voila", rattle city. Why in the world would this only happen when in
> gear? I don't have a clue as to what it could be. The frequency of the
> rattle doesn't sound high enough to be the screen/cage as mentioned above.
> It sounds lower as from a thicker material. Any ideas?
>
> Craig Wallace
> 1994 F-150 4.9L, 300 cu. in., I-6
>
>
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 08:21:10 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95, F-250

Blake Malkamaki wrote:

>
> What is the NADA trade in price? Generally you should expect to pay
> somewhere between trade in and dealer resale price. Toward one or the other
> depending on condition.

Trd is 15,050$. Conidition is VG except interior panels squeak alot,
but I've come to expect that is 80's and early 90's Ford trucks. I was
originally looking for a 95 Bronco and drove tons of them. Most of them
had squeaky door panels or dashes and I don't think Ford ever made a
center console that didn't rattle/squeak ect. It's of no concern as I
will re-engineer as needed ;-)

OX
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 07:15:15 -0500
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - confused about 302

I would check; timing, vacuum leaks, broken wires, stuck EGR valve, plugs,
dist cap and rotor. Plugs are a great indicator of what's going on in the
engine.
Good luck ;^)
Smeck
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jason D Odor
To:
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 1999 6:40 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - confused about 302


> I have a problem, I have a 93 F150, 302 and yesterday on the way home from
work
> it started running really bad. Prior to this it was running good. Well
it
> idles OK but as soon as I put it in gear in start to idle really low and
shack
> really bad. When I give it gas, there is not much power, and with more
gas it
> starts to sound like a Diesel. It doesn't sound like a rod knock or
anything
> mechanical (I don't think). To top it all off it has a bad "exhaust"
smell.
> I'm really confused, I changed the plug wires(thinking that all 8 might
not be
> firing) then I changed the O2 sensor(thinking maybe something with the
exhaust
> smell). I also noticed that I had some antifreeze leaking from the
radiator
> area, not much but some. Am I headed up the right track with the sensors,
like
> maybe a MAP sensor or something, or is it something a lot worse than that.
I'm
> the type of guy that loves to improve an already good running motor or fix
> something that I know is broken, but when it comes to trouble shooting I
am
> kinda lost. Any and all help would be great, I have learned so much
already
> on this list, I am looking forward to learning more.
>
> Thanks,
> Jason
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 08:28:41 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95, F-250

Theodore D. Mills wrote:
>
> >I love my 460 , lots of power and a quiet ride.
>
> I just got a 91 F250 4X4 supercab, longbed a couple of weeks ago.
>
> Except for the 10MPG or so that it gets, I love it!
>
> Considering that I came from an 85 Ranger, BIG difference!
>
> Sitting in my driveway next to the Ranger, the '250 looks about 3 times the
> size.
> Parking it at the mall is kinda like berthing the Queen Mary....
>
> That 460 tows my camper like it's not even there. 65 MPH uphill in
> overdrive vs 45 screaming in second with the 2.8 Ranger!
>
>

I'm used to towing with my 79 Bronco. It's OK, but stock 351M's are
dogs for the amount of displacement. I'm looking forward to seeing how
this new rig handles towing 8-9000 lbs.

> If you can afford to feed it, go big block.
> Although.... there's something really macho about that honkin' noisy
> diesel.....
>
>

Actually right now I drive a GASP....., 95 S-10 blazer and it only
gets 15. I don't think I'll be using that much more gas :-). Thank god
no more Ch*bbie trucks for me, I don't know what I was thinking.


OX
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 08:47:34 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 93, 460 F-350 vs 94 F-250 turb diesel

Mike Jordan wrote:
>
> I own a 97 F-250 with the 460.

I put a deposit on the 95, F250 with 460 yesterday.

I was going to purchase a 96 F-350 with the
> powerstroke diesel. After doing alot of research and a long test drive ( one
> week with each truck from the dealership) I chose the gas.
> The diesel was a great truck but just didn't fit for me. I drive to work
> everyday 45 miles each way and tow a 6000 lbs boat all summer on the
> weekends. The diesel got better mileage. 16-18 mpg for my daily commute, the
> 460 is getting 12- 12.5 mpg. But with the gas I just get in and drive, when
> I get there I just shut down. The diesel was alittle more work than that.
> The turbo needs alittle cool down idle time (3 - 4 mins) after an extended
> highway drive ( 30 mins or so).

You could easily get a turbo timer for this. I turbo'd my 86 capri, but
have not had a chance to install the turbo timer yet.

> I also live in Michigan and didn't want to
> deal with any special care in the winter.

That, the posible maint cost and the 3000$ premium to buy it turned me
off to a diesel. I'm much to impatient to wait around to start it.

OX
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 08:09:03 -0700
From: "mike mueller"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Key Problem

Hey all!
I just had a problem with my 89 F-150 ignition switch.
Something broke on the inside and now it doesn't make the right contacts to
start but I can get the power to go. So this morning I got out and crossed
the Solenoid and up she started!
I'll call around and find a dealer with the part today, but the question
is...
How do you replace this?
Anyone done this?
BTW: a couple of years ago I had them do a recall fix of the spring in the
switch.


Thanks!

Mike Mueller
Loan Officer
National Pacific Mortgage
800 899-3070 xt. 408

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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 08:13:33 -0700
From: "Dennis"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: 80-96 air bypass valve

My 89 F250 was surging and stumbling on startup I noticed that the air
bypass was bypassing all the time, traced the vacuum line back and found a
broken line, patched the line and the surging stopped. Still have a rough
idle and uneven acceleration, any ideas?

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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 10:24:34 -0500
From: "DannyF"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96- loose steering

>I have a 95 F150 4X4. The steering seems to have
>excess playing in it. I took it to a garage, & they
>couldn't help at all, so I then took it too a Ford
>dealer who told me the steering box had some worn
>gears in it, & that it was very expensive to repair.
>His suggestion was to leave it alone, it was better
t>han some others he had seen. Has anyone else
>experienced this excessive play, & if so, how did you
>repair it? I have more questions, but I'll start with
>that one!

This is one of the most irritating things about my '90 F-150 SB. Its
got ~80K mi and it wanders also. Heres what I've done to attempt
to correct w/no dramatic improvement.

- -Alignment.

Just to see if a shop could fine something I couldn't, I took it to 2
front end shops. Both were aware of this common Ford truck
problem. Front end component play was found neglible. One shop
then proceeded to focus on the steering shaft to box input shaft
connection. Its mated by a fibrous insulator w/3-4 bolts attaching a
small flange. Seems the bolts can strip or the insulator can just
erode over time. That was not my problem either.

Bottom line: the alignment shop and the 2 front end shops came to
the conclusion that its just plain slop in the steering box. One shop
did adjust the preload on top of the box quite a bit(3/4" of a turn)
and that improved the wandering slightly.

With the fr. wheels on the ground and a helper turning the wheel
you should see the steering shaft turn the box input shaft exactly
in unison. If not, theres play in the mating flange. After that,
w/wheels up and a helper turning the wheel, look for front end
component slop. If you don't find anything major, its just a sloppy
steering box(like many others)
Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 11:46:32 -0400
From: "Theodore D.Mills"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95, F-250

>
> I'm used to towing with my 79 Bronco. It's OK, but stock 351M's are
>dogs for the amount of displacement. I'm looking forward to seeing how
>this new rig handles towing 8-9000 lbs.
>

My 351M was far from stock. Not really overboard, but more a street/strip
setup. The guy who built it would never tell me exactly what cam he put in
it, but it would lope really nicely with the idle at around 550 - 650.
The cam would "come in" at around 3500 and it would really jump.

The rest of the setup was:
Edelbrock performer 400 intake
Mallory unilite dist. with a heathkit CD ignition box and stock coil
Dual exhaust with Midas turbo mufflers, no headers
Holley 650cfm 4V with vacuum secondarys
C6 auto with 2.75 rear (ouch!)

Not much off the line, but it'd do 105 turning 5K in second gear.

I never did find out how fast it would go.....I chickened out at 125 with
lots of pedal left!

Really fun messing with those 84-85 Corvettes on I-95 though.
Some of those guys were really thin skinned!
I can't understand why the would get pissed when they couldn't run away
from a 4000 Lb land barge! ;)


>
> Actually right now I drive a GASP....., 95 S-10 blazer and it only
>gets 15. I don't think I'll be using that much more gas :-). Thank god
>no more Ch*bbie trucks for me, I don't know what I was thinking.
>
They only non-fords I have to drive are company vehicles (thank god!)
...and they get beat like the junk that they are!

Ted

>
> OX
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>
>
Thank You for riding SEPTA

Theodore D. Mills
Transportation Manager
Norristown High Speed Line Route Manager

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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 09:07:24 -0700
From: Eric Sneed
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Key Problem

Ignition actuator, $ 12.00 at the dealer. Took me about two hours working at
a casual pace.

Eric
89 F150

-----Original Message-----
From: mike mueller [SMTP:MortgageMike mnmnem.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 1999 8:09 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Key Problem

Hey all!
I just had a problem with my 89 F-150 ignition switch.
Something broke on the inside and now it doesn't make the right
contacts to
start but I can get the power to go. So this morning I got out and
crossed
the Solenoid and up she started!
I'll call around and find a dealer with the part today, but the
question
is...
How do you replace this?
Anyone done this?
BTW: a couple of years ago I had them do a recall fix of the spring
in the
switch.


Thanks!

Mike Mueller
Loan Officer
National Pacific Mortgage
800 899-3070 xt. 408

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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 14:19:45 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95, F-250

Theodore D.Mills wrote:
>

> My 351M was far from stock. Not really overboard, but more a street/strip
> setup. The guy who built it would never tell me exactly what cam he put in
> it, but it would lope really nicely with the idle at around 550 - 650.
> The cam would "come in" at around 3500 and it would really jump.
>

351M/400's get a bum rap because of;

Only 2 bbls
No compression (351M-8.0:1, 400-8.4:1)
Retarded cam timing (4-6 degrees))

I plan on building a 400 for my offroad beast. The heads are awsome.
Should be an easy 300 Horsies on reg gas :-).

OX
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 13:00:11 -0500
From: "Ed Mount"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Key Problem

Mike,
I don't have the answer to your question, but I had (still have) a similar
problem where my ignition switch doesn't have to be turned off to remove the
key, nor does the gear selector have to be in park. So I can do a lot of
things not normally possible, like leave my truck running without the key in
it, or accidentally shut it down without moving the ignition switch to the
lock position, so when I get back in I can start right up with no key, or
leave the transmission in gear when I exit, and other creative things. I
had planned to fix it myself someday, but someone mentioned air bags in the
steering column being a consideration, and I decided I better get
professional help.
All of this hot air is just to remind you that if you go playing around with
your steering column, and if you have an air bag, be careful.
Ed

- ----- Original Message -----
From: mike mueller
To:
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 1999 10:09 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Key Problem


> Hey all!
> I just had a problem with my 89 F-150 ignition switch.
> Something broke on the inside and now it doesn't make the right contacts
to
> start but I can get the power to go. So this morning I got out and
crossed
> the Solenoid and up she started!
> I'll call around and find a dealer with the part today, but the question
> is...
> How do you replace this?
> Anyone done this?
> BTW: a couple of years ago I had them do a recall fix of the spring in the
> switch.
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mike Mueller
> Loan Officer
> National Pacific Mortgage
> 800 899-3070 xt. 408
>
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 14:20:09 -0600
From: Fred Moreno
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE:Any Suggestions???

Hello Al,

Try one thing first before you go spending a lot of money. Need to see if
this a situation caused by the computer (for whatever reason is to be
speculated). Disconnect your battery for about 15 minutes, this will clear
out the "adaptive learn" your computer has managed to accumulate. I know
that it is possible that this behavior is a result of adaptive learn (or
block learn) of the computer.

I do know there is a method of re-setting the Idle Air Control that
involves disconnecting the IAC, turning the ignition key ON, standing on one
leg, juggling three kittens while facing east..... The guy that knows this
procedure is my partner in LP applications and maintenance school we teach
for the state goons. I have seen this procedure work to cure hard start,
rough idling, common cold.... But of course he left this morning to go Elk
hunting and won't be back until next week - hopefully with some meat. I will
definetly inquire when he gets back if you can live that long.

Sorry about the bizarre babbling today, I am under the influence of some
great Nyquil. Not sure how I got to work. I bet I parked beautifully today.

Phred
1995 F-150 4X4, 5.0L, leaking 5-speed, and still weird vent problem with no
time to troubleshoot it. Thanks for all the great feedback folks.


Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 22:18:39 -0500
From: Allen Stearns
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Any Suggestions???

I have a problem that I'm hoping someone can help me with.
My 89
Aerostar 3 liter has 12V applied at all times to the IAC
Valve and it
won't start when cold due to the air bypassing the
butterfly. From all
I have read in manuals it should be less than one volt until
after the
engine starts. I opened the signal wire at the IAC and put
a toggle
switch in line with it. I now turn the switch off, it
starts normally,
and then I turn the switch on and leave it on. This works
o.k. but I
would like to find out what controls the IAC valve and why
there is 12V
on it all the time (even when the switch is on, before
starting). Can
anyone offer any suggestions?
Thanks!!!
Al Stearns

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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 16:43:55 -0400
From: Steven Boswell
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Anyone with similar problems

Wondering if anyone in subscriber list has a F250 with 7.5L gas motor
experiencing problems with spark knock. Especially during the winter monthes.

Mine is a 1988 model and this is what has been verified so far.

Brand of gasoline and/or octane rating seems not to matter. Reformulated or
Oxygenated fuel is now required in my area year round.

Leak down tests in all cylinders meet specifications. No oil consumption either.

All EEC tests and timing checks performed by Ford find no faults. 3 of these in
the last 3 years.

Use of chemical De-carbon treatment helps but never cures and knocking returns
within 5000 miles.
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 17:07:21 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Anyone with similar problems

Steven Boswell wrote:
>
> Wondering if anyone in subscriber list has a F250 with 7.5L gas motor
> experiencing problems with spark knock. Especially during the winter monthes.
>

I just bought a 95, which I hope to pick up Mon. I hope I don't have to
run 93 in this thing. Milage is going to kill me enough. I assume your
EGR (do they even have EGR??) is working correctly? When does the knock
occur.

OX
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 14:36:13 -0700
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - confused about 302

>I have a problem, I have a 93 F150, 302 and yesterday on the way home from
>work
>it started running really bad. Prior to this it was running good. Well it
>idles OK but as soon as I put it in gear in start to idle really low and
>shack
>really bad. When I give it gas, there is not much power, and with more
>gas it
>starts to sound like a Diesel. It doesn't sound like a rod knock or anything
>mechanical (I don't think). To top it all off it has a bad "exhaust" smell.
>I'm really confused, I changed the plug wires(thinking that all 8 might
>not be
>firing) then I changed the O2 sensor(thinking maybe something with the
>exhaust
>smell). I also noticed that I had some antifreeze leaking from the radiator
>area, not much but some. Am I headed up the right track with the sensors,
>like
>maybe a MAP sensor or something, or is it something a lot worse than that.
>I'm
>the type of guy that loves to improve an already good running motor or fix
>something that I know is broken, but when it comes to trouble shooting I am
>kinda lost. Any and all help would be great, I have learned so much already
>on this list, I am looking forward to learning more.
>
>Thanks,
>Jason
>
The symptoms your describing are identical to the ones I experienced when
the MAP sensor went on my 88F150-302

Mark


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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 18:36:36 -0500
From: "Brent McNabb"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Max 302 Engine Temp?

All this talk of thermostat ratings has left me wondering... Since I can't
recall what some manufacturers but on their temperature gauges, what is the
maximum temperature a Ford 302 will take before overheating? The reason I
ask, and this really isn't F-Series related, but I have a '77 Maverick with
a 302. Doesn't have a stock temp gauge, but does have a mechanical temp
gauge, which usually reads around the 190-200 degree F range, and today was
hovering around 210, trying to get to 220. Always having Fords, with their
'Normal' range temps, what is the operating temp of a 302 with a 192/195
thermostat?
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 20:13:52 EDT
From: Spruce1495 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Seeking computer info

Hi folks,
I am buying a Jasper Class 1 towing engine for my '93 F-150. The
Class 1 is assembled with a Crane #2021 Compucam. Can anyone out there tell
me if this will need a "chip" change to work with the cam setup or will the
stock chip be sufficient. I don't want to create a monster, where the cam
won't respond favorably with the stock setup, but I don't want a "drag race"
my 5th wheel trailer down the road, either. Any ideas ???
Thanks,
Bill B.
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 21:13:59 -0400
From: S Spaulding
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Max 302 Engine Temp?

The thermostat isn't fully open until about 217 to 219F, by
specification. My last 302 Crown Vic, which had a questionable
radiator, would regularly run up to 230F (measured with a thermocouple
and chart recorder) with the A/C on and "pushing it." There were never
any ill effects. By Ford definition, that is still within the "Normal"
range. In my case, that was around "a" on the gage (but don't go by
that!). Your usual 190-200F is fine.

Steve

Brent McNabb wrote:
>
> All this talk of thermostat ratings has left me wondering... Since I can't
> recall what some manufacturers but on their temperature gauges, what is the
> maximum temperature a Ford 302 will take before overheating? The reason I
> ask, and this really isn't F-Series related, but I have a '77 Maverick with
> a 302. Doesn't have a stock temp gauge, but does have a mechanical temp
> gauge, which usually reads around the 190-200 degree F range, and today was
> hovering around 210, trying to get to 220. Always having Fords, with their
> 'Normal' range temps, what is the operating temp of a 302 with a 192/195
> thermostat?
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 18:11:51 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - confused about 302

The MAP sensor is easy to diagnose. Remove the vacuum line and start truck. The
computer will see no MAP signal, sustitute a known operating value and start. If
it does and runs smoothly, you've found the problem.

Good Luck

Bob


Mark Ponsford wrote:

> >I have a problem, I have a 93 F150, 302 and yesterday on the way home from
> >work
> >it started running really bad. Prior to this it was running good. Well it
> >idles OK but as soon as I put it in gear in start to idle really low and
> >shack
> >really bad. When I give it gas, there is not much power, and with more
> >gas it
> >starts to sound like a Diesel. It doesn't sound like a rod knock or anything
> >mechanical (I don't think). To top it all off it has a bad "exhaust" smell.
> >I'm really confused, I changed the plug wires(thinking that all 8 might
> >not be
> >firing) then I changed the O2 sensor(thinking maybe something with the
> >exhaust
> >smell). I also noticed that I had some antifreeze leaking from the radiator
> >area, not much but some. Am I headed up the right track with the sensors,
> >like
> >maybe a MAP sensor or something, or is it something a lot worse than that.
> >I'm
> >the type of guy that loves to improve an already good running motor or fix
> >something that I know is broken, but when it comes to trouble shooting I am
> >kinda lost. Any and all help would be great, I have learned so much already
> >on this list, I am looking forward to learning more.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Jason
> >
> The symptoms your describing are identical to the ones I experienced when
> the MAP sensor went on my 88F150-302
>
> Mark
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 20:27:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Mike Persell"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:I6-300 on Propane

On Thu, 21 Oct 1999 19:57:05 +1000, les williams wrote:
>Hi All,
> So where does that leave me ? My F100 runs harder and better with a 160F,
>instead of the 195F, and I am doing everything possible in the direction of cold
>air/fuel induction, and I have the dyno numbers to verify I am moving in the
>right direction. The engine has been built specifically for Liquid Propane use
>only. :-))

Propanes a totally different story. Low ash content oil and cooler temperatures are the
way to go. The engine probably wouldn't open a 195 thermostat.

Mike

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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 11:18:27 -0200
From: John Thornton
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:Throttle Air Bypass Valve

I just looked up in my service manual for the ISC valve and it says that the voltage should be
12V. FYI: I found out that the little valve can be disassembled for much better cleaning..
1) Remove from vehicle(given)
2) Remove metal cap off end(now where going to fix it where it can't be fixed)
3) Inside you will see that the center plug is threaded in
4) Mark the center plug and outside rim, then count the number of turns to back it out so
you know how far to screw back in for proper spring adjustment
5) The plug has an O-ring so end cap isn't needed when reassembled (especially if you
destroy it
like I did)
6) Watch how it comes apart co you will know how to put back together
One thing I did find was that the plastic end of a mini tube of grease fit right over the end.
Also my truck had a case of the high idle when first cranked. I found out that an extra quarter
turn in on center plug helped that a bit. Hope this info can be of help to all those with sticky
valves and hope all the shop overlords don't intercept my message an cost those who would rather
try before they buy.
DISCLAIMER: This is not for the faint of heart, but for the curious, frustrated, angry,
don't care if it's going to cost me kind of person who is willing to take full responsibility for
the destruction of there own vehicle and anything else in hammer slinging area.

Pat T (alias Wrenchman)
93 F150 SC 5.0
91 Areowagon (wife's school bus)
66 Mustang 95% disassembled

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 22:28:29 -0500
From: "Steve Dyer"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Odd Voltmeter Readings Solved

In case anyone followed this situation, the voltage regulator was not the
problem. Rectifier was bad in the alternator. At the risk of annoying the
list with an excessively long post, I have included below the symptoms I
reported to the list so that should anyone suffer the same problems they
might have an idea where to start looking. Local Ford dealer ran their
charging system check ($13) and claimed the alternator was bad. They
wanted $342 to replace the alternator and refused to repair it or sub it out
for repair. I forked over the 13 bucks and drove it the truck straight to a
local independent shop who did the fix for $110. Voltmeter readings are
back to normal, battery warning light is off and the lights don't pulse any
more. If I knew more about alternator repair and possessed the diagnostic
equipment I would have done it myself, but I'm lacking on both counts.

Steve Dyer


- ----------beginning of original post -------------

History:

'94 F150 5.8L 4WD Auto, towing package, lots of extras, 102K miles. Over
the last couple of years I've occasionally experienced pulsing
headlights/dash lights accompanied with high readings on the dash voltmeter,
and the needle slightly wagged in time with the pulsing. Less often the
voltmeter would drop to a low reading and the red battery indicator light
would show on the dash. This latter symptom usually disappeared within 5-10
minutes. I swapped batteries with my other vehicle and the symptoms
remained the same so I assumed it wasn't a bad battery. I would
occasionally trickle charge the battery just to make sure it wasn't being
drained but never found it in bad shape. The truck ran fine, always started
and never stranded me, so other than fishing this list for clues I never
really worried about it much.

Many months pass by and the battery finally tired of this treatment, going
tits-up yesterday. I replaced the battery with a new one, had the
alternator checked (it put out close to 14V, very steady) and replaced the
voltage regulator in case it was the root of the problem.

Question:

After getting everything back together I started the truck and watched the
voltmeter. It now shows on the low side of center, about 1/3 from the low
limit of the 'NORMAL' range, but seems steady. With previous batteries
and normal operating conditions this meter usually indicates the very middle
of the range. I drove it for 10 miles around town with no change in the
meter reading. Can anyone tell me if they've seen this before? I did not
immediately install the 'dry charged' battery, but trickle-charged it for a
few hours to full capacity before installing it this morning.

- -----------end of original post -----------

Steve Dyer



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 21:42:19 -0500
From: "Dave Harmier"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: F-250

Man, my red F-150 is a royal PITA to keep looking decent... red takes sun....


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