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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #292
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80-96-list-digest Monday, October 18 1999 Volume 03 : Number 292



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - re: 96 F150 Auto Trans
FTE 80-96 - GLOW PLUG TIMEOUT
FTE 80-96 - Re: GLOW PLUG TIMEOUT
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: 96 F150 Auto Trans
FTE 80-96 - Timing device
Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 Spark Plug Wires and Exhaust Manifold
Re: FTE 80-96 - re: 96 F150 Auto Trans

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Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 08:10:02 -0400
From: ric tomas
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re: 96 F150 Auto Trans

Well I've got it finally. My F150 has 76k on it, I have changed a
couple things already, such as oil, coolant flush, plugs. I want to
change the auto trans fluid, but it has 76k on it, should I just leave
it,or change it? Also what else should I be changing or looking for? I
was going to pull both man. locking hubs off the front and grease them,
just in case. Any thoughts?
Thanks
Rich(previous 97 owner,current 96 owner)
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Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 15:43:57 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnar_Huse?=
Subject: FTE 80-96 - GLOW PLUG TIMEOUT

A few broken glowplugs may mess with the timing on the glow relay.

Get out your voltmeter, pull the power plug for one glowplug and place the
ground wire on top of the glowplug, the + lead for the voltmeter on the
battery. You should see close to 12 Volts going through. 3 or more bad plugs
and you'll see extended cranking period for starts, or even timing misses by
the relay.

The "timing" relay may of course simply be shot, which is kind of expensive
to replace. Some replace the relay with a separate "heat" button on the
dash, but remember to check which system you have; some systems use less
voltage on the glowplugs and direct 12V through the plugs could fry them.
(Maybe that was just a Chevy thing; can't seem to remember...).

Good luck!

Bjørnar
Ålesund, Norway
1990 E-250 diesel
2000 Excursion Limited on order

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Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 12:18:18 -0400
From: Walker
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: GLOW PLUG TIMEOUT

> Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 09:41:15 -0700
> From: "Hal Sylvan"
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - GLOW PLUG TIMEOUT
>
> The glow plugs on my 91 F350 7.3L diesel are now turning off after 2-3
> seconds before starting in the morning. At least that is what the START
> indicator on the dash says. If I turn the key off, before starting, then
> back on, the START indicator only flashes. It now takes over 5 seconds of
> cranking to start. It use to take no more than 2 seconds.
> Up until about a month ago the START indicator was on for about 6-7 seconds
> before first start in the morning. I assume the glow plug cycle is now to
> short and the cylinders are not getting hot enough for a quick start.
> Fortunately I live in N.E. Florida and the mornings are still warm but I am
> concerned about starting in 30/40 degree weather in a few months.
> Are the plugs bad? I don't know how old they are. I've owned the truck for 2
> years.
> Is there a cycle control module gone bad or needing adjustment? If so where
> is it and what does it look like?
>
> Hal Sylvan
>
Check your glow plugs,when mine did that I usually found 1 or more bad
glow plugs.Autozone and others carry glow plugs .The module is located
at the back of engine,bolted to top of the block+it's solid state the
only thing replaceable on it is the solenoid.... Ed
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Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 11:42:32 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: 96 F150 Auto Trans

>Well I've got it finally. My F150 has 76k on it, I have changed a
>couple things already, such as oil, coolant flush, plugs. I want to
>change the auto trans fluid, but it has 76k on it, should I just leave
>it,or change it? Also what else should I be changing or looking for? I
>was going to pull both man. locking hubs off the front and grease them,
>just in case. Any thoughts?
>Thanks
>Rich(previous 97 owner,current 96 owner)
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>


Rich,

Pick up a Hayne's or Clymer's, or refer to the OEM owner's manual, and make
sure to do everything listed in the Maintenance Schedule. I always assume
newly acquired vehicles have been subjected to extreme duty and do
everything:

Check battery water level.

Inspect all wiring for safe routing, secure connections, ADEQUATE FUSING. (I
just lost a rcently acquired 93 Mustang LX 5.0 convertible, showroom
condition, when the hot wire to the power mirrors came loose from the
switch, contacted the handbrake linkage, and set the carpet on fire. Why
didn't the fuse blow? Because Ford specifies a 15 amp fuse, which is way
over capacity for the power mirror circuit wire, but just right for the
power top circuit wired parallel to the power windows circuit.) MAKE SURE
FUSES ARE SIZED TO THE WIRING THEY ARE SUPPOSED TO PROTECT. I'm in the
process of re-fusing my other 2 Mustangs that still have factory wiring and
my Bronco right now. I've checked several other Ford models as well as some
GM, Chrysler, and Nissan products. Every one has similar, potentially
lethal, design flaws.

All accessable hardware is tightened. I've bought several vehicles from
disgusted owners and cured the engine performance problems with a box wrench
on a carb nut or manifold bolt. (My toasted Mustang wouldn't idle--loose
intake manifold bolts.)

All belts and hoses, including vacumn and brake hoses. I think more vehicles
are sold because of leaking vacumn problems than anything else.

Coolant thermostat, system flush, radiator cap, vacumn check valves, and PCV
valve.

All fluids, filters, and grease points on the entire vehicle, including
re-packing wheel bearings, driveshaft support bearings, and U-jonts,
tranmission, transfer case, and differentials.

Check brake shoes and pads for wear, and replace axle/grease seals (50% off
auto parts store's prices at industrial power supply places. Wheel bearings,
too, but don't use industrial belts unless you want to adjust them 25 times
until they stretch out.)

Replace wiper blades.

Lubricate linkages, hinges, cables, window risers, latches, locks,
adjustment points, etc.

Tires and alignment.

Only after the vehicle will stop and handle correctly do I start with the
engine performance items:

Replace spark plugs, points/condenser (anyone still run these), cap, rotor.

Check plug wire resistance and appearance (clean, no cracks or burns, no
carbon tracking). Replace/reroute as needed.

Ignition timing.

Finally, carb adjustments.

At this point, I know the vehicle as well as anyone possibly could without
tearing it apart. Future maintenance work is scheduled as needed, and always
more often than the factory intervals, which are really stretching things at
times.

Rich, I hope you find plenty of ideas to keep you busy here. I once worked
as a fleet mechanic with a maitenance schedule so comprehensive that it even
included tightening the fuel tank mounting straps. When was the last time
you did that????

Ken
83 Bronco 460 Performer, C6, 3.55, 2WD conversion, now running :)
83 Bronco 302, need time to swap in running gear from wrecked 85 F-250 4X4,
460, 4spd OD, 4.11 (or thereabouts)
86 Mustang LX conv 5.0, C4 recent swap from 3.8
86 Mustang LX hatchback 460 Trick Flow, NOx, Nash 5 spd, 4.10 Detroit Locker
93 Mustang LX conv 2.3, AOD
93 Mustang LX conv 5.0, 5 spd, needs new interior and top :(

______________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 22:53:10 -0500
From: Tom Wiggins
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Timing device

Hi! I have a 351HO built fffor my 81 F250. I'm looking for a device to
change the timing when I switch from propane to gasoline. Does anyone
know wher I can find ssomething like this? Thanks Tom Wiggins

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 23:52:28 -0500
From: "Shawn & Jennifer Clark"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 Spark Plug Wires and Exhaust Manifold

Thanks to all for the assistance so far. Update: I have fixed the
missing/pinging idling problem in a big way. Today I traded the failed
Autozone wires for a set of Accel Super Stock Spiral Core wires. I also
replaced the coil. The OEM coil seemed to test out alright (8.4 kilo-ohms)
but the indications of some faint arcing in that area at night led me to
replace it. New coil tests out at an even 8.0; there is no arcing. While
doing the wires I thoroughly rerouted them. I used all of the supplied
clips in the Accel pack (6 or so) along with the stock clips, to separate
the wires as much as possible. I took a look at the plugs before doing the
wire change. The rear cylinders' plugs (4 and 8) were wet with fuel--which
was not a surprise since they were part of the arcing problem. The front
plugs were running hotter (light gray and cleaner than the middle
cylinders) They all appeared to be mechanically OK, the gaps were still on
spec and there was no erosion. (The old plugs and wires had only 10,000
miles on them from when I last did them.) After these changes I started it
up and road tested it to see if the wires were the sole problem. It was
about 50% improved and was able to pull its own weight again, but it still
was missing some, and the idle was still rougher than normal.

Since the truck was still not back to normal, I decided to pull out the
Motorcrap plugs and replace them with NGK's (just the plain old V-powers,
no platinum, iridium, beryllium, or other rare metals). WHEW!!! Man, what
a difference! This truck has not run so smooth since I have had it. It
idles like a brand new engine now with no hint of the little "nervous tick"
it has always had. I've had only good experiences with NGK's in my other
two cars, mower, trimmer, and chainsaw. I change the NGK's out
periodically, but none of them have ever shown any real sign of
deteriorating; and the 30,000+ mile old NGK's seem to perform just as ably
as the brand new ones despite being run very hard. Funny thing is, through
the years, several people had warned me not to try these "furrin" plugs on
a Ford. The lesson for me is, go with what you know works! If you are
having trouble with somewhat rough idle and have done everything else, try
pulling out the stock plugs (even if you just put them in an hour ago) and
slap in some NGK's. It is a relatively inexpensive test, although it will
take a little time. The gap on the NGK's did require considerable
adjustment since they were set narrow, unlike the stock Motorcrap's which
are pretty much on spec out of the box.

Thanks for the lead on exhaust manifolds (Hermoff's). I've got them
bookmarked and will check them out on Monday. If anyone else has any other
suggestions on exhaust manifolds I would appreciate them. Now that I
FINALLY have this truck running right, I'm willing to plunk down some money
to replace the worn out exhaust system (broken passenger manifold and
hole-ridden, got-my-money's-worth 105,000 mile old pipes.) I'm also
looking for suggestions on cat-backs for these 1991 302's. I'm not into
loud or boomy exhaust notes, although being a bit throatier than stock is
OK. I'm looking for something relatively free flowing, but not to the
point that it begins to rob low end torque. In short: I'm looking for
power across the rev range, I'm not looking for something that will sound
cool to 18 year olds. If any of you know of a comparison of different
systems, please point me in the right direction.

Thanks,

Shawn Clark
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 22:14:56 PDT
From: "Christopher Worley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - re: 96 F150 Auto Trans

I recently bought a '93 F150 with 110,000 on it. When I hit 120,000 my rear
main seal started leaking, so I had to pull my tranny to get to it. I went
ahead and drain my trans (torque converter and all) when I got the pan off I
noticed not garbage in it at all I was surprised. I was a little concerned
about it because of its age. Another thing I noticed is that it had been
changed before because the gasket wasn't stock. I have talked with a few
mechanics and they all seem to have a different opinion on when you should
change your tranny fluid one said as often as 10,000 miles ( yeah right)
another said as often as 60,000 miles. Have you owned the truck the full
76,000 or was it used? If it was used it could have been changed before. I
know mine was because the gasket was a FRAM. I HAD to change mine but so
far I think it runs better. I used to get a growling noise every once in a
while when it shifted into OD but that has disappeared since I changed it.
Good Luck. I hope I didn't leave you with more questions than answers.


>From: ric tomas
>Reply-To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - re: 96 F150 Auto Trans
>Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 08:10:02 -0400
>
>Well I've got it finally. My F150 has 76k on it, I have changed a
>couple things already, such as oil, coolant flush, plugs. I want to
>change the auto trans fluid, but it has 76k on it, should I just leave
>it,or change it? Also what else should I be changing or looking for? I
>was going to pull both man. locking hubs off the front and grease them,
>just in case. Any thoughts?
>Thanks
>Rich(previous 97 owner,current 96 owner)
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
....


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