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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #291
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80-96-list-digest Sunday, October 17 1999 Volume 03 : Number 291



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts on FordNews.Com
FTE 80-96 - GLOW PLUG TIMEOUT
Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Leak
FTE 80-96 - Re: 351-2 barrel
FTE 80-96 - Hey guys
FTE 80-96 - Dashboard Voltmeter Readings
Re: FTE 80-96 - Dashboard Voltmeter Readings
Re: FTE 80-96 - Hey guys
Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 Spark Plug Wires and Exhaust Manifold
Re: FTE 80-96 - Another weak component in my truck ?!?!
FTE 80-96 - Cracked Exhaust Manifold

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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 09:27:22 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts on FordNews.Com

Check out the write-up on Ford Truck Enthusiasts done
by FordNews.com. This weekend their site is featuring
articles about Ford trucks and they have a free
screen saver available.

Steve Blake has given Ford Truck Enthusiasts some
great press lately. Please stop by his site and check
it out.

Thanks,
Ken Payne


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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 09:41:15 -0700
From: "Hal Sylvan"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - GLOW PLUG TIMEOUT

The glow plugs on my 91 F350 7.3L diesel are now turning off after 2-3
seconds before starting in the morning. At least that is what the START
indicator on the dash says. If I turn the key off, before starting, then
back on, the START indicator only flashes. It now takes over 5 seconds of
cranking to start. It use to take no more than 2 seconds.
Up until about a month ago the START indicator was on for about 6-7 seconds
before first start in the morning. I assume the glow plug cycle is now to
short and the cylinders are not getting hot enough for a quick start.
Fortunately I live in N.E. Florida and the mornings are still warm but I am
concerned about starting in 30/40 degree weather in a few months.
Are the plugs bad? I don't know how old they are. I've owned the truck for 2
years.
Is there a cycle control module gone bad or needing adjustment? If so where
is it and what does it look like?

Hal Sylvan

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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 08:25:30 -0500
From: "Allen Collins"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Leak

Hello Chris,

I had a pretty good leak on my 86 302, I used a cork gasket with some RTV
blue, straightened out the valve cover and peened the bolt holes towards the
gasket slightly. Remember not to overtighten the bolts that is what caused
the leak. If you have a 1/4" drive rachet, then I would use that for the
installation. I have since have had no leaks form the valve covers.

Allen
Lubbock, Tx
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Christopher Worley
To:
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 1999 7:50 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Oil Leak


> Greeting Listers,
>
> I have a '93 F150 SC 351, I seem to be having problems with an oil leak.
> When I bought the truck it had a huge leak (about 1.5 quarts a day) and I
> have slowed it down a lot. I had to change the pan gasket, and rear main
> seal. The question I have is: It has only been a week since I have
changed
> the rear main seal, I am not seeing any oil on the ground anymore (thank
> god) but when I open the hood and look at my left valve cover gasket I can
> see oil right about the exaugst manifold, seems to be leaking worse from
the
> rear of the cover. I am going to change this gasket out this weekend but
I
> need to know if I should go ahead and do both (a lot of work), the right
> side is solid no leak, or should I just do the left. The other question I
> have is what type of gasket do you recommend, the parts house has a cork
> (blah) gasket and a metal gasket. The cork is much cheaper of course.
Are
> the valve covers eaisily warped on this engine? I seem to remember the
> person I purchased it from saying it had been changed before.
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris Worley
> Waxahachie, TX
>
> ______________________________________________________
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 12:53:01 -0700
From: "Joan and Walt Posluszny"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 351-2 barrel

FULSZBRONC, Thanks for the 4 barrel HP and Torque numbers, I'll go out and
tell my 2 barrel that it's not living up to expectations.

[I think the 4 barrels came on the autos and the 2 barrels came with the
manual trannies.[

> Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 20:41:43 EDT
> From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: 2 Questions
>
> Hmm...your questions piqued my interest, since I also have a '85 and had a
> '84 351W hi-altitude...so I double checked my '85 factory manual....no such
> thing as a 2bbl.carb. The 4v is 210hp 4000rpm, 305 2800 torque.
>
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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 15:46:24 PDT
From: "Michael Schumacher"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hey guys

Hey guys and gals, I got a little question for you.

I have a 1993 F-150 4X4 with 95000 trouble free miles. It is pretty base,
with only power steering, auto, cd player,and alloy wheels as options. The
truck is in good shape, a couple minor dings and what not. I have dual
exhaust, nerf bars, bed liner, it is in good shape. Any idea what it is
worth?, or has anyone sold one recently like this? One more factor is that
it is bright yellow, not repainted though, it was factory painted yellow.
Thanks in advance!

Mike Schumacher

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 19:12:56 -0500
From: "Steve Dyer"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Dashboard Voltmeter Readings

History:

'94 F150 5.8L 4WD Auto, towing package, lots of extras, 102K miles. Over
the last couple of years I've occasionally experienced pulsing
headlights/dash lights accompanied with high readings on the dash voltmeter,
and the needle slightly wagged in time with the pulsing. Less often the
voltmeter would drop to a low reading and the red battery indicator light
would show on the dash. This latter symptom usually disappeared within 5-10
minutes. I swapped batteries with my other vehicle and the symptoms
remained the same so I assumed it wasn't a bad battery. I would
occasionally trickle charge the battery just to make sure it wasn't being
drained but never found it in bad shape. The truck ran fine, always started
and never stranded me, so other than fishing this list for clues I never
really worried about it much.

Many months pass by and the battery finally tired of this treatment, going
tits-up yesterday. I replaced the battery with a new one, had the
alternator checked (it put out close to 14V, very steady) and replaced the
voltage regulator in case it was the root of the problem.

Question:

After getting everything back together I started the truck and watched the
voltmeter. It now shows on the low side of center, about 1/3 from the low
limit of the 'NORMAL' range, but seems steady. With previous batteries
and normal operating conditions this meter usually indicates the very middle
of the range. I drove it for 10 miles around town with no change in the
meter reading. Can anyone tell me if they've seen this before? I did not
immediately install the 'dry charged' battery, but trickle-charged it for a
few hours to full capacity before installing it this morning.

Steve Dyer




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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 19:42:21 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Dashboard Voltmeter Readings

Sounds normal to me. If the headlights do not pulse any more, I'd say you
fixed it by replacing the voltage regulator.

You should not expect the volt meter to change during 10 miles of driving,
not if everything is working correctly. At idle, at night, with the lights
and A/C fan on HI, you might see the volts drop a bit compared to when you
rev RPM up... Other than that it will be pretty steady.

I don't find voltage meters in the instrument cluster to be terribly
informative. They will tell you when you have a dead battery (but you knew
that already, because it would not start!).

At 19:12 16/10/99 -0500, you wrote:
>History:
>
>'94 F150 5.8L 4WD Auto, towing package, lots of extras, 102K miles. Over
>the last couple of years I've occasionally experienced pulsing
>headlights/dash lights accompanied with high readings on the dash voltmeter,
>and the needle slightly wagged in time with the pulsing. Less often the
>voltmeter would drop to a low reading and the red battery indicator light
>would show on the dash. This latter symptom usually disappeared within 5-10
>minutes. I swapped batteries with my other vehicle and the symptoms
>remained the same so I assumed it wasn't a bad battery. I would
>occasionally trickle charge the battery just to make sure it wasn't being
>drained but never found it in bad shape. The truck ran fine, always started
>and never stranded me, so other than fishing this list for clues I never
>really worried about it much.
>
>Many months pass by and the battery finally tired of this treatment, going
>tits-up yesterday. I replaced the battery with a new one, had the
>alternator checked (it put out close to 14V, very steady) and replaced the
>voltage regulator in case it was the root of the problem.
>
>Question:
>
>After getting everything back together I started the truck and watched the
>voltmeter. It now shows on the low side of center, about 1/3 from the low
>limit of the 'NORMAL' range, but seems steady. With previous batteries
>and normal operating conditions this meter usually indicates the very middle
>of the range. I drove it for 10 miles around town with no change in the
>meter reading. Can anyone tell me if they've seen this before? I did not
>immediately install the 'dry charged' battery, but trickle-charged it for a
>few hours to full capacity before installing it this morning.
>
>Steve Dyer


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD
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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 22:23:18 EDT
From: Bakend aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Hey guys

In a message dated 10/16/99 4:56:25 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
mshoe99 hotmail.com writes:

> I have a 1993 F-150 4X4 with 95000 trouble free miles. It is pretty base,
> with only power steering, auto, cd player,and alloy wheels as options.
The
> truck is in good shape, a couple minor dings and what not. I have dual
> exhaust, nerf bars, bed liner, it is in good shape. Any idea what it is
> worth?
Go to Kelly blue book on the web and give the specs. They will give you trade
in value and lot price. How much are you asking? Is it State Shop yellow?
Been kind of looking for something along the lines of what you have there.
D Baken
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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 20:16:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: david crouch
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 Spark Plug Wires and Exhaust Manifold

Shawn,

I have 94 F-150 302 with a 123k and no engine problems
at all. I have had the pinging problems from time to
time. My solution was I installed Accel wires and a
new accel coil also Bosch platinum plugs. Although
the manufacture states 100k tune up I find that the
life of most all plugs is only about 30k then they
need to be replaced. I haven't had any manifold
cracks but some of my friends have. I had to tighten
mine at about 100k. Please stay away from the Toyota
dealerships you deserve better than that. Do yourself
a favor and visit a Ford dealer and try a new F-150
and the modular engines. Good luck with the truck.


davidjube yahoo.com

- --- Shawn & Jennifer Clark
wrote:
> Hi-
>
> I'm looking for some recommendations on good spark
> plug wires and any
> tricks to extending their service life. I've had no
> problems with plug
> wires on my Nissan's and Honda's, but Chrylser's and
> Ford's seem to eat
> them like candy. I drove the 1991 F-150 w/302 about
> 150 miles today...man,
> what a miserable drive. The darned thing had a
> combination miss/ping/late
> fire going. No power. This was not happening at
> all the last time I drove
> it. Every time I go to drive the blasted thing more
> than ten miles from
> the house, something different stops working. This
> time it appears to be
> the wires. These wires are less than two years old
> and were Autozone
> "Double Silicone" wires with "Limited Lifetime
> Warranty". I'm about to
> find out how limited.
>
> I checked a number of things during the day to
> diagnose the problem. After
> running 92 super premium in it without clearing up
> the miss/ping/late fire
> and after jiggling/rerouting wires I suspected cross
> fire or some sort of
> ignition gremlin. When it got dark, I parked it in
> a dark spot and cracked
> the hood enough so that I could see the plugs
> without the light coming on;
> and it rewarded me with a blue light show. I've got
> several different
> wires arcing with one another and one with the coil
> wire--they are not
> touching, but they are close enough to arc. Also,
> back of the coil toward
> firewall is giving off some faint blue light, not
> sure precisely where.
> Should I replace the coil, since I've torn about
> every other OEM part out
> of this heap? Any recommendations on good, RELIABLE
> wires? The Motorcraft
> wires didn't seem to be all that longlived and the
> Autozone wires have not
> impressed me much--although the light show was
> pretty. The truck is nearly
> stock except for a drop in K&N. Anyone care to
> suggest wire re-routing
> techniques? Some of the routing on these F-150's
> looks like it was done by
> a drunken sailor. I'm thinking of finding some sort
> of plastic spacers to
> put at key points to keep the wires at least one
> inch apart.
>
> Next problem, cracked exhaust manifold on passenger
> side. I've known about
> this for awhile, but have not had time to worry
> about it since more
> pressing items kept breaking. Any suggestions on
> where I can get new stock
> exhaust manifolds cheap...and did they reinforce the
> area around the back
> plug so the things won't crack? I'm not really
> wanting headers, unless
> someone can recommend ones that are pretty quiet and
> won't put a lot of
> excess heat under the hood.
>
> Help would be appreciated. The lack of reliability
> of this truck is
> forcing me to consider putting it out to pasture. I
> could understand the
> problems if I knew nothing about cars, and never did
> preventive
> maintenance, but this thing has been extremely well
> maintained and it still
> can't seem to make it around the block without help.
> I'm tired of spending
> the weekend working on it when I intended to take it
> on a trip instead. I
> like working on cars to improve their performance,
> and doing general
> preventive maintenance, but I don't care much for
> repetitively fixing
> poorly designed/constructed components. Tonight I
> drove the Ford over to
> the Toyota dealership to look at the new
> Tundra...good thing I could only
> look (dealership was closed) or I might have made an
> impulse purchase.
>
>
> Shawn Clark
> e-mail: sd&jkclark tyler.net
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>



=====

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 21:02:18 -0700
From: "Mike Salomone"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Another weak component in my truck ?!?!

Phred said.....

Question to all regarding a slight loss of power and
the vents: I recently
noticed while driving with the air flowing through the
vents, when the truck
comes under heavy load (such as in overdrive, the
cruise control set and a
steep over-pass/incline), the air stops flowing from
the vents and is
re-routed to the windshield/defroster vents.
Once the engine comes back off the load, the air goes
back to circulating
through the regular vents. Crazy yah?!
This will occur with and without the AC on, and with
or without the cruise
control on.
Now I know I am not normal, but I don't believe this
has been happening
since the truck was brand new.
I have looked for a vacuum leak under hood without
succes, and under the
dash seems so strange and unknown, but nothing appear
out of the ordinary.
Suggestions? Non-serious ones will also be entertained.

Thanks for the space,

Phred, KD5AQB
La Union NM

Phred,
Look for a vacuum check valve in the vacuum line or
lines that
go to the heater controlls. One hose in and one hose
out.One side marked ''vac''
When you pull that hill [cruise control is
immaterial],the manifold
vacuum drops.This lower vacuum may not be enought to
hold the
position of the vacuum motors which move the dampers
which direct
the air ; floor ,defrost ,etc.When you find the check
valve or valves see
if they hold vac in one direction and free flow in the
other.
If it leaks replace it.The other place to look for
leaks is the air valving portion
of the AC / heater control on the dash.
The loss of power sounds like a vacuum leak.After
all the obvious... hoses and fittings ,tighten the
intake manifold bolts.

Happpy Trails
Mike Salomone aka mickeys sedona.net




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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 22:50:55 -0700
From: "Leo Mosley"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Cracked Exhaust Manifold

I replaced the passenger side manifold on my 87 F150 302 a couple of years
ago. The old manifold was really cracked, as it came out in two pieces. I
noticed that the factory manifold was installed without a gasket, and
wondered if this might be part of the problem. It would seem to me that a
gasket would allow the cylinder head and manifold to expand/contract a
little easier. At any rate, I used a gasket with the new manifold and so far
it has been fine. The new manifold was made by Hermoff (part #6109).
According to the paper that came with it, this manifold fits 86-94 302
engines. I tried the wreckers first, but had no luck.

- -------------------------------------------------------------------

Next problem, cracked exhaust manifold on passenger side. I've known about....


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