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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #289
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80-96-list-digest Friday, October 15 1999 Volume 03 : Number 289



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - 302 Exhaust Manifold
FTE 80-96 - gas tanks/switching
Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 Exhaust Manifold
FTE 80-96 - New cat-back exhaust?
FTE 80-96 - New cat-back exhaust?
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Archives
FTE 80-96 - Fuel Pump
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Interview with Bob Masone, F150 Brand Manager!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Tailgate hardware question
FTE 80-96 - Oil Leak
Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Leak
FTE 80-96 - questions about 460 fittins

=======================================================================

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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 08:33:54 -0500
From: "PHILLIP P. GUIDRY"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 302 Exhaust Manifold

Hey Dave,yes there is an aftermarket replacement for the cast iron
manifolds.They are cataloged by "DORMAN Products",which is handled by
most independent and some retail parts stores.These pieces are
reconstructed with tubular steel but are not labeled headers. The
drivers side part # w/o heat riser is 674-152, w/ heat riser is 674-155.
The passenger side is 674-153 for 86-91 only? If your parts store
handles this brand, they can get it for you.
Later,
Phillip

"You might be a redneck if your family tree doesn't fork!"


>
> Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 21:33:11 -0500
> From: "Dave Harmier"
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - 302 Exhaust Manifold
>
> OK, we know ALL drivers side manifolds crack. My 92 302, and dads 91 351,
> and an F-250 company truck 351 I drove a couple years back.... so getting
> one from a junkyard isn't even possible.
>
> Is there any aftermarket source? Decent price? Or does Ford make better
> ones now? (bend over and spread 'em!). Was gonna do headers, but I've
> always hated headers, why stop now?
>
> On to exhaust system. It has a crappy cat back with no mufflers, on which
> one side has rusted off.
> I'm going to have my cats tested, and replaced if restrictive, and go with
> a 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 single exhaust.
> Which size?
>
> Inquireing minds want to know!
>
> Dave H.
> Houston
>
> Hey Roy & Jim, wasn't Fall short lived? I don't know about you, but I still
> find it quite warm and HUMID!
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 09:15:42 -0500
From: BAH NWC.EDU
Subject: FTE 80-96 - gas tanks/switching

Re: problems with dual gas tanks and switches, be aware that Ford used different
systems (in different years). The early EFI arrangement had a low-pressure pump
in each tank with a passive routing valve/resevoir (which simply responded to
pressure from the running in-tank pump) and a high-pressure pump along the frame
rail. Later models used high-pressure pumps in each tank and an active routing
valve (these valves are quite prone to failure). With EFI systems, in addition
to selecting the fuel guage sending unit and activating an in-tank pump, the
dash switch may or may not also activate a switching valve.

Make sure you know which system you have, then get a wiring diagram, or you'll
go in circles trying to figure out where the problem lies.

An INTERESTING phenomenon with my '86...when switching to the front tank (which
had a non-working low-pressure pump) the truck would continue to run, drawing
fuel from the rear tank (it would gravity feed to the high-pressure pump) so
long as the rear tank was more than half-full. Took me awhile to figure this
one out!

Bruce Hanson
'86 F-150


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 10:46:10 -0500
From: Roy Houston
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 Exhaust Manifold

Ford stuff:

I've got a good set of manifolds on my 351W, far as I know anyway... Maybe
you'd buy these for enough for me to get a set of headers? $150/pair?

Why do you hate headers? Leaks, poor fit, loosening? I've never had a car
with headers.

Houston weather stuff:

We have friends from Canada that've been here for two years and they were
remarking how nice it was couple of weeks ago. I told 'em not to get used
to it, we'd be sweatin' for Thanksgiving!!!

Mosquitoes are killin' me and it ain't even been rainin'!!!

Roy



At 09:33 PM 10/13/1999 , you wrote:
>OK, we know ALL drivers side manifolds crack. My 92 302, and dads 91 351,
>and an F-250 company truck 351 I drove a couple years back.... so getting
>one from a junkyard isn't even possible.
>
>Is there any aftermarket source? Decent price? Or does Ford make better
>ones now? (bend over and spread 'em!). Was gonna do headers, but I've
>always hated headers, why stop now?
>
>On to exhaust system. It has a crappy cat back with no mufflers, on which
>one side has rusted off.
>I'm going to have my cats tested, and replaced if restrictive, and go with
>a 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 single exhaust.
>Which size?
>
>Inquireing minds want to know!
>
>Dave H.
>Houston
>
>Hey Roy & Jim, wasn't Fall short lived? I don't know about you, but I still
>find it quite warm and HUMID!
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

Roy Houston Richmond, TX (Houston southwest 'burb)
85 F-150XL SC 351W H.O 4V C4
98 GMC Safari 4.3
houston1 _at_ slb _dot_ com

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 14:14:01 PDT
From: 2insane excite.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - New cat-back exhaust?

I have a 89 302. went from a stock muffler to a welded in straight pipe now.
two cat converters still intact. sounds a'lot nicer than when it was stock,
but not too loud. haven't got harrassed about it either. Performance gains?
Seems like it pulls better but lost some low-end. Sounds good though.




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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 14:16:03 PDT
From: 2insane excite.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - New cat-back exhaust?

I have a 89 302. went from a stock muffler to a welded in straight pipe now.
two cat converters still intact. sounds a'lot nicer than when it was stock,
but not too loud. haven't got harrassed about it either. Performance gains?
Seems like it pulls better but lost some low-end. Sounds good though.

oops. 2 1/4 pipe all the way to stock behind the rear tire position if
anyone wanted to know.




________________________________________________________________
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Talk online at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://voicechat.excite.com
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 17:36:17 -0400
From: kpayne ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Archives

Just a quick update. The mailing list archives (all
166 meg!) have been formatted as HTML pages and uploaded
to the server.

As soon as they are indexed for searching and we come
up with a good way to protect them from email address
harvesting they will become available to the users.

Not sure is anyone has noticed, but our web server is
faster and mail delivery is too. The T1 install is
on schedule.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 16:47:16 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fuel Pump

>My '85 has one good ole mechanical fuel pump right up front, thank
>GOD!!!! I'm sure someone else will know for sure.

My 84 has the dual pump set up.Do you have dual tanks on your 85 ?
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 20:01:26 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Interview with Bob Masone, F150 Brand Manager!

FIRST TO PRESS! FordNews.com has supplied us with transcripts to
their interview with Bob Masone, F150 Brand Manager! You can find
it on the main page of the web site.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 17:17:36 -0700
From: "BIGDOG"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Tailgate hardware question

Thanks much....................glad to hear it's not voodoo art.

Dave
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Serian
To:
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 1999 1:17 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Tailgate hardware question


> > I am getting a new tailgate from Ford for my '89 F-350.
> > I will need to put the latch and all the hardware from my
> > existing tailgate into it.
> >
> > My ??? is, has anyone out there done this and if so, are
> > there any tricks or tips?
>
> Yeop. done it on my '83 F150. Its a pretty straightforward
> job ... the release rod connectors unfasten at the handle, then
> just unbolt the brackets at the outside edge of the tailgate, and
> slide the whole assembly out. The handle itself attaches with
> 3 bolts which are found on the exterior surface of the bed-facing
> side of the tailgate.
>
> Go to the auto parts store and buy some extra clips (you will
> find the originals installed on the ends of the release rods where
> they attach to the handle), because invariably, one will break.
>
> The bolts that hold the tailgate handle/latch hardware in my '83
> are metric ... either 8mm or 10mm, or maybe some of both (its
> been a while since I fixed it) ... I suspect that yours is metric too.
>
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 17:50:11 PDT
From: "Christopher Worley"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Oil Leak

Greeting Listers,

I have a '93 F150 SC 351, I seem to be having problems with an oil leak.
When I bought the truck it had a huge leak (about 1.5 quarts a day) and I
have slowed it down a lot. I had to change the pan gasket, and rear main
seal. The question I have is: It has only been a week since I have changed
the rear main seal, I am not seeing any oil on the ground anymore (thank
god) but when I open the hood and look at my left valve cover gasket I can
see oil right about the exaugst manifold, seems to be leaking worse from the
rear of the cover. I am going to change this gasket out this weekend but I
need to know if I should go ahead and do both (a lot of work), the right
side is solid no leak, or should I just do the left. The other question I
have is what type of gasket do you recommend, the parts house has a cork
(blah) gasket and a metal gasket. The cork is much cheaper of course. Are
the valve covers eaisily warped on this engine? I seem to remember the
person I purchased it from saying it had been changed before.

Thanks

Chris Worley
Waxahachie, TX

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 23:09:46 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Leak

Chris-
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

If applied properly and not over-tightened, the cork will work just fine.
If they have a thicker cork option and a standard, go with the thick. I
have never seen metal; not sure how it would work. I have seen neoprene --
it is a bit more forgiving of people who rush or over tighten the bolts.

Check to make sure PCV system is really working. If not, pressure in
crankcase can make these oil leaks appear. You will seal up this side and
the other side will start leaking.

To test: With engine running and everything hook up like normal, you should
remove oil filler and detect air going IN. I use a small square of
newspaper and make sure the engine sucks it up snug against filler hole. If
not, no good cranckcase ventilation and pressure can build up under load
(especially with an older engine with more blow-by). Make sure PCV hose is
open, consider replacing PCV valve if it is very old (even if you can hear
the thing inside rattle when you shake it). Spray carb cleaner into PCV
valve and hose while running.

Valve cover don't warp, per se, but they get distorted from people over
tightening the bolts. Take them to your workbench and lightly tap them back
out flat with a block of wood. Go easy. If you clean the top of the head
WELL and the underside of the valve cover, then coat the cork gasket with a
really good gasket sealant, it will not leak and you will not have to
torque down very much at all. Go easy, follow shop manual torque values.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
Jim

At 17:50 14/10/99 PDT, you wrote:
>Greeting Listers,
>
> I have a '93 F150 SC 351, I seem to be having problems with an oil leak.
>When I bought the truck it had a huge leak (about 1.5 quarts a day) and I
>have slowed it down a lot. I had to change the pan gasket, and rear main
>seal. The question I have is: It has only been a week since I have changed
>the rear main seal, I am not seeing any oil on the ground anymore (thank
>god) but when I open the hood and look at my left valve cover gasket I can
>see oil right about the exaugst manifold, seems to be leaking worse from the
>rear of the cover. I am going to change this gasket out this weekend but I
>need to know if I should go ahead and do both (a lot of work), the right
>side is solid no leak, or should I just do the left. The other question I
>have is what type of gasket do you recommend, the parts house has a cork
>(blah) gasket and a metal gasket. The cork is much cheaper of course. Are
>the valve covers eaisily warped on this engine? I seem to remember the
>person I purchased it from saying it had been changed before.
>
>Thanks
>
>Chris Worley
>Waxahachie, TX


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 03:58:42 -0400
From: "Eric Searles"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - questions about 460 fittins

This is my first post, considering that I just recently came across a big
block 460 and was wondering what years it would bolt into without any
cutting and many tranny adjustments.
Any help or direction would be helpful as I am just entering my Fordhood. I
particularly like the early 80's models, but have no idea of where to start
looking for a host for my rebuilt baby.

thanks in advance

eric in sw florida
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Cannon
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, October 15, 1999 12:42 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Oil Leak


>Chris-
>If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
>
>If applied properly and not over-tightened, the cork will work just fine.
>If they have a thicker cork option and a standard, go with the thick. I
>have never seen metal; not sure how it would work. I have seen neoprene --
>it is a bit more forgiving of people who rush or over tighten the bolts.
>
>Check to make sure PCV system is really working. If not, pressure in
>crankcase can make these oil leaks appear. You will seal up this side and
>the other side will start leaking.
>
>To test: With engine running and everything hook up like normal, you should
>remove oil filler and detect air going IN. I use a small square of
>newspaper and make sure the engine sucks it up snug against filler hole. If
>not, no good cranckcase ventilation and pressure can build up under load
>(especially with an older engine with more blow-by). Make sure PCV hose is
>open, consider replacing PCV valve if it is very old (even if you can hear
>the thing inside rattle when you shake it). Spray carb cleaner into PCV
>valve and hose while running.
>
>Valve cover don't warp, per se, but they get distorted from people over
>tightening the bolts. Take them to your workbench and lightly tap them back
>out flat with a block of wood. Go easy. If you clean the top of the head
>WELL and the underside of the valve cover, then coat the cork gasket with a
>really good gasket sealant, it will not leak and you will not have to
>torque down very much at all. Go easy, follow shop manual torque values.
>
>Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
>Jim
>
>At 17:50 14/10/99 PDT, you wrote:
>>Greeting Listers,
>>
>> I have a '93 F150 SC 351, I seem to be having problems with an oil leak.
>>When I bought the truck it had a huge leak (about 1.5 quarts a day) and I
>>have slowed it down a lot. I had to change the pan gasket, and rear main
>>seal. The question I have is: It has only been a week since I have
changed
>>the rear main seal, I am not seeing any oil on the ground anymore (thank
>>god) but when I open the hood and look at my left valve cover gasket I can
>>see oil right about the exaugst manifold, seems to be leaking worse from
the
>>rear of the cover. I am going to change this gasket out this weekend but
I
>>need to know if I should go ahead and do both (a lot of work), the right
>>side is solid no leak, or should I just do the left. The other question I
>>have is what type of gasket do you recommend, the parts house has a cork
>>(blah) gasket and a metal gasket. The cork is much cheaper of course.
Are
>>the valve covers eaisily warped on this engine? I seem to remember the....

---

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