From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #284
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80-96-list-digest Sunday, October 10 1999 Volume 03 : Number 284



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - re: 96 F150 Trans.
FTE 80-96 - ZF tranny rebuild
RE:FTE 80-96 - noisy belts
FTE 80-96 - Thermostat
Re: FTE 80-96 - Headlight aiming
Re: FTE 80-96 - Thermostat
FTE 80-96 - Temp swings and body creak
FTE 80-96 - Exhausting question!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Thermostat
Re: FTE 80-96 - ZF tranny rebuild
RE:FTE 80-96 - noisy belts
Re: FTE 80-96 - Thermostat
Re: FTE 80-96 - Exhausting question!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Exhausting question!

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Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 08:14:38 -0400
From: ric tomas
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re: 96 F150 Trans.

Hello list, I am buying a 96 f150 with auto trans. Which auto
trans/transfer case is in this truck? I didn't grab the info of the door
jamb yet. It has a 302, what is the longevity of this engine?
Thanks,
Rich
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Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 08:23:02 EDT
From: MadPoodle aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ZF tranny rebuild

Anyone ever rebuild one of these? Seems we now have a horrendous noise in
second / fourth in one work, and massive quanities of metal in oil. Not
pretty, but since its out and on my bench, figured I would ask before ripping
it open. Any ideas, suggestions, please let me know!

TIA

Scott
95 F350, Currently apart
ZF Mo S5-42
ZF parts 1307050117
S/N 8605671
Ford # F4TA-7003AB
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Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 09:37:57 -0500
From: "Stephen W.Hansen"
Subject: RE:FTE 80-96 - noisy belts

- - ----- Original Message -----
From: Victor L Moran
To:
Sent: Friday, October 08, 1999 11:12 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - noisy belts


>> hello all,
>> One of my aerostar's belts is making alot of squealing noise.
>> It's the belt connected to the power steering pump. The power
>> steering pump also makes noise when I am turning and I have my foot on
the
>> accerlator.
>> The belts squeal only happens when it is cold out.
>> Does anyone know what it means to have a belt that squeals when it
>> is cold?
>> Victor.

>Time to change the belt....
Yes and no... My LTD did the same thing and a new belt didn't fix it; nor
the stop squeaks products. I finally took my 4" grinder and a wire wheel and
"scuffed up" every pulley on the system.. removing the glazing that had
formed after 125,000 miles. That solved it
Steve



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Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 16:13:51 -0400
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Thermostat

The other morning it was about 35 degrees here and on the way to work I
noticed that the heater didn't get very hot. Luke warm air only. A check of
the temperature gauge confirmed my suspicions. The engine wasn't very hot. I
suspected the thermostat and decided it was probably time to change it
anyway. $5 isn't much to spend to hang a part anyway.
Today I changed the thermostat and sure enough the temperature gauge reads
higher. Notice, I said higher.
I have seen several posts, and been involved in several discussions about
temperature gauges in F-150's. Particularly my vintage (1985). I don't want
to open that discussion again but I'll risk it.

1. The gauge reads higher than it ever has. The parts store said the spec
for my thermostat was 195 degrees so that's what I installed. I seem to
recall someone recommending a lower temp thermostat. If so, why?
2. Maybe it's just my imagination but the truck seems to run a lot better
now. I know that disconnecting the coolant temp sensor increases the idle.
Why? Anyone know the exact relationship between the coolant temperature and
the idle? Is there simply a trip point or does the idle (performance) have
some direct relationship to coolant temp all the time?

Here we go again.

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA


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Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 17:43:31 -0400
From: John DeMarco
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Headlight aiming

>If I can establish where they
>are aimed now then I can compare that to post installation and adjust
>accordingly. How in the heck do I mark or measure the existing setup?

You have to use some of that good old math they tried to drill into our
heads. One way you can do this is - First, find out how far away from
the truck the lights are hitting the ground before you raise it. Pick a
distance to do what the other posts say - mark the spot on a wall that
is where your lights center. Measure how much you have raised the lights
after the new susp. Do the math and mark the height difference on the
wall and adjust the lights to hit that spot and they should hit the
ground at the same distance you had before. Oh yeah you need the height
above the ground at the truck that the lights are at to begin with.

A quick guesstimate would go like this. The lights are 4' above the
ground at the truck to start with and you measure the lights hit the
ground at 100' away. They hit the wall (25' away from the truck) at 3'
above the ground. If you raise the truck 4". You would expect that if
you raised the aim mark on the wall 3" the lights should hit the ground
at about the same place. Hope this helps.

John

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Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 18:05:27 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Thermostat

At 16:13 09/10/99 -0400, you wrote:
>The other morning it was about 35 degrees here and on the way to work I
>noticed that the heater didn't get very hot. Luke warm air only. A check of
>the temperature gauge confirmed my suspicions. The engine wasn't very hot. I
>suspected the thermostat and decided it was probably time to change it
>anyway. $5 isn't much to spend to hang a part anyway.
>Today I changed the thermostat and sure enough the temperature gauge reads
>higher. Notice, I said higher.

Did you happen to see what temp the old thermostat was? It might have been
a 180 deg. thermo; the newer, hotter one would read higher on the guage. I
would not worry about it.

>I have seen several posts, and been involved in several discussions about
>temperature gauges in F-150's. Particularly my vintage (1985). I don't want
>to open that discussion again but I'll risk it.
>
>1. The gauge reads higher than it ever has. The parts store said the spec
>for my thermostat was 195 degrees so that's what I installed. I seem to
>recall someone recommending a lower temp thermostat. If so, why?

In your cooler climate, I would go ahead with the 195 thermo. I do not put
them in 1985 model trucks down here in Texas because it is too hot in the
summer for them if you run A/C, especially with anything other than a
really new, clean radiator. You don't really need it that hot down here,
but up in Penn. you will like the heat that comes out of the heater with
the 195.

>2. Maybe it's just my imagination but the truck seems to run a lot better
>now. I know that disconnecting the coolant temp sensor increases the idle.
>Why? Anyone know the exact relationship between the coolant temperature and
>the idle? Is there simply a trip point or does the idle (performance) have
>some direct relationship to coolant temp all the time?

It might NOT be your imagination. If your old thermostat was begining to
fail open, the truck might not have been fully warming up and not running
as well as it could. Now it is warming up properly and running better.

I don't know enough about your 1985 computer to answer the idle speed and
coolant temp question. I suspect there is a trip point below which it idles
fast (because engine is cold) and above that temp it goes back down to
normal idle. It is harder (more complicated) to have it be a continuously
variable change, based on temp, and Detroit tends to keep things as simple
as they can. Someone else should comment, if they know for sure.


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD
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Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 20:17:47 EDT
From: craig n eggerman
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Temp swings and body creak

If the radiator is undersized or filling up with crude for the
application it will run warm when you pour the gas to it. Take it to a
radiator shop and let them look at it. They can tell if there are larger
(more rows) radiators available. Most new ones run $200 +/-. To clean it
out runs about $125 +/-
You can pull the radiator to save a little money usually $60 labor. Some
come out real easy others are a fight. The E350 I have is four bolts on
the back side and two transmission lines that have to be disconnected and
the whole thing slides straight up and out. The big radiators (4 row down
flows) like on this 10000 lb motor home are heavy. Get a buddy to help.

It might be the fan clutch but that is an outside shot. To test this,
block the front of the radiator, put an oven thermometer on the top of
the radiator and record the temps on the thermometer vs what you read in
the cab (temp vs letter positions) for the cheap gauges. The engine must
be running fast say 2000 rpm. Listen to the sound of the fan as the temp
increases. There should be a noticeable increase in noise (roar) as the
temp goes over 190 -210 this means the fan is working. No roar and a
straight climb to 240 is a fan problem. 240 is where it boils over- fluid
starts to go to the over flow bottle. Slowly cool it down before the
engine is shut off.
Craig
Eggerman juno.com
Casper,Wyoming
O|||||O

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Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 21:12:58 -0500
From: "William Zellmann"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Exhausting question!

Hey Listers!

I've got a question. I've been doing some work on my '82 F100 300-I6. Among
other things, I've changed both the intake and exhaust manifolds. The truck
now has an aftermarket intake and late-model (FI) exhaust manifolds (I don't
like headers).

Now it's getting to be time to do the exhaust. As I'm really poor at the
moment, the dual 2 1/2" stuff will have to wait--I have to get the truck on
the road.

I've gone to two exhaust shops here in town to ask about buying a stock
'87-up header pipe (or pipes--the later manifolds are duals). Neither of
them could (or would) help me out. One of them told me he'd be happy to put
together a custom system, but since the manifolds came off a later truck,
I'd have to put cats on too! (Yeah, right!). The other just shrugged and
said he'd make a custom setup for me. In both cases, the prices WEREN'T
right! I just can't afford it, yet. I asked each of them about buying just
the stock setup, and neither was interested in getting one for me.

Anyone have any ideas where i can buy a stock head pipe setup for an FI 300?
(I'll take care of mating it to the original exhaust. Or even where I can
buy the flanges to make my own? No joy on local boneyards (and they're
getting pretty weird about selling exhaust part anyway--guess Big Brother's
at it again).

Bill Zellmann
'82 F100

"You're only young once, but you can stay immature forever!"


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Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 23:55:33 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Thermostat

>1. The gauge reads higher than it ever has. The parts store said the spec
>for my thermostat was 195 degrees so that's what I installed. I seem to
>recall someone recommending a lower temp thermostat. If so, why?

It is better to run the 195 degree as the manufacturer recommends. With the
greater temperature differential between the radiator and the air (as
opposed to using a lower thermostadt) the heat will transfer better.

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 23:48:29 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - ZF tranny rebuild

> Anyone ever rebuild one of these? Seems we now have a horrendous noise in
>second / fourth in one work, and massive quanities of metal in oil. Not
>pretty, but since its out and on my bench, figured I would ask before ripping
>it open. Any ideas, suggestions, please let me know!
>

I have not rebuilt one, but I would think it would be as straight-forward
as any other manual. See if you can get a complete kit for it. I know you
can for the New Processes.

I was thinking of replacing my mazda 5 speed with the ZF - IF if is any
better and IF it will fit.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 23:52:08 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: RE:FTE 80-96 - noisy belts

>>Time to change the belt....
>Yes and no... My LTD did the same thing and a new belt didn't fix it; nor
>the stop squeaks products. I finally took my 4" grinder and a wire wheel and
>"scuffed up" every pulley on the system.. removing the glazing that had
>formed after 125,000 miles. That solved it
>Steve

The idler pulleys will get a ridge worn into them. If you change the belt
angle, by changing water pumps or some other accessory, it may make the
belt ride up on this ridge. The belt will try running at two different
surface speeds in relation to the pulley's two different diameters. It will
have to slip on one and will therefore squeel. Mine does it. I filed off
some of the ridge on the plastic idler pulley (with the engine running - BE
CAREFUL), but still have a little more to go to quiet the belt slip.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 21:45:24 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Mike Persell"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Thermostat

On Sat, 9 Oct 1999 23:55:33 -0500, Blake Malkamaki wrote:
>It is better to run the 195 degree as the manufacturer recommends. With the
>greater temperature differential between the radiator and the air (as
>opposed to using a lower thermostadt) the heat will transfer better.

I wish I had you sitting nearby during those killer physics exams. I hated the
fluid dynamics, thermal dynamics and the BTU studies.

Mike

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Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 21:58:04 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Exhausting question!

Try an auto parts store for your headpipes if all you want is stock pipes.
Perhaps a converter test pipe, too.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 22:01:01 PDT
From: "ken haley"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Exhausting question!

Try an auto parts store for your headpipes if all you want is stock pipes.
Perhaps a converter test pipe, too. I've found, though, that retaining the ....


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