From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #281
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80-96-list-digest Thursday, October 7 1999 Volume 03 : Number 281



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 80-96 - RE: FTE 80-96- Check engine light
FTE 80-96 - RE: Electrical and Frame
RE: FTE 80-96 - Electrical
FTE 80-96 - Fw: Uh-oh... dirty MAF
FTE 80-96 - Howling
Re: FTE 80-96 - Howling
FTE 80-96 - Rear end change out
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear end change out
Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear end change out
FTE 80-96 - Electrical
FTE 80-96 - profile ignition pickup?
Re: FTE 80-96 - profile ignition pickup?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Stumbling engine on hills

=======================================================================

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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 07:50:32 -0400
From: Dave Heverin
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - RE: FTE 80-96- Check engine light

Shannon,

Same problem here. The light flashes (more in cooler weather) but the truck
runs fine....

Dave




- -----Original Message-----
From: shannon hoyt [mailto:securluv hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 1999 6:37 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: FTE 80-96- Check engine light


Rob,
I admit that I am no expert either, but I have a little story for ya. My
father owns an 89' F-150 4x4. He bought it used in 89' I don't remember the
mileage that was on it, but I do remember that we had nothing but problems
with the check engine light. He had the sensor chip in the dash replaced
twice by the dealership. To this day the light still flashes on and off.
Ford basically said it is probably a bad connection somewhere, and not to
worry unless the engine is having a problem. My father hasn't had a problem
with the engine yet. Basic maintenance excluded !!

Shannon

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 08:18:01 -0700
From: "McMahon, Todd R."
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Electrical and Frame

Steve:

I agree with what others have said to check. Here are a couple more
possibilities:

1. Check your shop manual's electrical schematic to see if you have a
"relay" between the headlight switch and the headlights. Often a relay will
be used to control the high amperage power going to the lights, with only a
low amperage line between the headlight switch and the relay. This is done
to extend the life of the headlight switch, and to lower the risk of
electrical short circuits (and electrical fires)in the dash area. More than
likely the relay will be bad.

2. Previous year vehicles had problems with various frame rivets which had
loosened and would cause such clunking noises. I don't know if your year of
vehicle had the same problem, but it could still happen. Use a ball-peen
hammer to smack the rivets with. A loose rivet will produce a duller
clunk-like sound compared to a brighter clink-like sound for a rivet that is
good and tight. To replace the rivet, drill into the rivet's head with a
bit that is 1/2 of the head's diameter. Drill only into the head, and stop
when the drill bit has reached the frame. Use a chisel (an air-chisel if
available) to shave off the head of the rivet. Drill out the rivet body
using a bit that is slightly smaller in diameter than the body of the rivet.
Shave off the other side of the rivet. Use a punch to remove the remainder
of the rivet body. Measure the frame hole's diameter, and drill out and
enlarge the hole to accept the NEXT LARGEST size of bolt. Use a
Fine-threaded Grade 8 or Grade 10 bolt only, with washers on both sides. Do
not use a spring washer. Use a grade 8 or 10 nut, do not use the ny-lock or
stop-nuts. Do not use lock-tight. After torquing down the bolt (different
areas of the frame have different torque requirements), spot-weld the nut to
the protruding shaft of the bolt.

Good Luck...!

Todd


- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Dyer [mailto:grallock ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 1999 8:14 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Electrical


Thanks for the welcome, Roy, and if there isn't a searchable archive then
I'll go ahead and pop my questions:

1994 F150 extended cab 4WD, 5.8L, auto, Twin I-beam front end. 102K miles.

1. Electrical abnormality - occasionally the headlights and dashboard
lights pulse about twice per second. When this happens the voltmeter shows
on the high side of center. I also have brief periods of voltmeter low
readings accompanied by the red battery dummy light. The only
troubleshooting I've done so far has been to switch batteries with my other
vehicle and the symptoms remained. Bad voltage regulator?

2. There is a serious 'CLUNK' from under the cab that started some months
ago and sounds/behaves a lot like a loose shock absorber. It is easily
summoned by driving over irregular pavement at low speeds, as it doesn't
take much wheel or chassis movement to produce the clunking. After it began
I installed new Monroe shocks all the way around and I've since checked the
shock bushings and mounts - everything is tight. A friend suspects the
radius arm bushings might be worn but I don't know how to tell for sure.
They 'look' OK, the nuts are tight and I can't move them myself, but this
probably doesn't prove anything. Engine mounts look good and I can't find
a loose transmission mount or anything unsual about the front springs. Have
any of you have experienced something similar? Any ideas what to check
next? Thanks for any assistance.

Steve Dyer
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 19:10:38 +0200
From: "David Anderson (EUS)"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Electrical

I'd start by inspecting the "large" ground cables in the truck. Battery negative to engine, flat braided wires from engine to frame, engine to body and body to frame. I've seen the a broken ground, engine to body, cause what you're seeing. Someone else will have to take a shot at question 2.
David Anderson

>>>>: Thanks for the welcome, Roy, and if there isn't a searchable archive then
I'll go ahead and pop my questions:

1994 F150 extended cab 4WD, 5.8L, auto, Twin I-beam front end. 102K miles.

1. Electrical abnormality - occasionally the headlights and dashboard
lights pulse about twice per second. When this happens the voltmeter shows
on the high side of center. I also have brief periods of voltmeter low
readings accompanied by the red battery dummy light. ........

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 14:57:36 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Fw: Uh-oh... dirty MAF

>Well gang, I decided to check out my MAF sensor seeing as I had the K&N
off
>to clean it, and much to my dismay the MAF had a fair amount of "dirt" on
>it, both on the screen and around the inside of the body. I couldn't tell
>if there was much dirt in the hot wore tube, but I would assume so. What
is
>good for cleaning a MAF with? I was going to use brake cleaner, but I
>thought I better ask. I guess this means my engine DID ingest some dirt on
>the Rubicon run. Bummer, I better do a compression check and see if I
still
>have any rings left. What is acceptable compression for an EFI 302, at
what
>point should I be worried? If I did get dirt in the intake, what are the
>chances of it migrating to the bottom end?
>Thanks,
>
>Rade Spasojevic -- rspasoje mindspring.com
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.2bigbroncos.org/
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=194
>-Rubicon Tested-
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 15:48:38 -0700
From: "J.S.H."
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Howling

I have a howl coming from either the rear end or the carrier
bearing.The colder the temp the louder the howl.
Any Ideas?
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 16:50:02 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Howling

Is the fluid level good? If it is, then you may have a bearing going out. If
the howling is constant, just varies with temp, it could be either the
pinion bearing or a carrier bearing. Is there excessive play in the drive
shaft? Could be the gears.

If it's a wheel bearing, you should note a temperature variation between the
two rear wheels. The howling, if created by a bearing going bad, will also
generate heat.

Good Luck,

Bob


"J.S.H." wrote:

> I have a howl coming from either the rear end or the carrier
> bearing.The colder the temp the louder the howl.
> Any Ideas?
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 19:53:40 -0400
From: Benny Hanzelka
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Rear end change out

I have a 1988 Ford, F-150, 302 engine, 2.55 rear axle. Does anyone know if
a 4.10 rear axle ratio can be fitted to this truck?

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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 20:59:28 EDT
From: Spruce1495 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear end change out

I'm sure a set of gears (ring and pinion) can be replaced on your existing
carrier section. This way the spider gears will be the same ones you've had
no problem with axles or length. The trick is getting them aligned so you
don't have premature wear and a noise condition on either drive or coast
conditions. There is a good explanation in the manuals (Haynes, Motor,
Chilton on this procedure.
Good luck,
Bill B.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 18:37:08 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Rear end change out

The 8.8" rear will allow for that, don't know about the 9"

Bob


Benny Hanzelka wrote:

> I have a 1988 Ford, F-150, 302 engine, 2.55 rear axle. Does anyone know if
> a 4.10 rear axle ratio can be fitted to this truck?
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 21:36:33 -0400
From: "Theodore D. Mills"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Electrical

I would suspect the voltage regulator first for the electrical problem and
I'd say that the radius arm bushings are the cause of your clunk.

I have bad bushings on my 85 Ranger and it sounds for all the world like a
loose shock.

Ted
85 Ranger 2WD 2.8L
91 F-250 4X4 7.5L "beast"
84 Mustang GT 5.0L (in pieces)
94 Taurus LX wagon 3.8L

>
>Thanks for the welcome, Roy, and if there isn't a searchable archive then
>I'll go ahead and pop my questions:
>
>1994 F150 extended cab 4WD, 5.8L, auto, Twin I-beam front end. 102K miles.
>
>1. Electrical abnormality - occasionally the headlights and dashboard
>lights pulse about twice per second. When this happens the voltmeter shows
>on the high side of center. I also have brief periods of voltmeter low
>readings accompanied by the red battery dummy light. The only
>troubleshooting I've done so far has been to switch batteries with my other
>vehicle and the symptoms remained. Bad voltage regulator?
>
>2. There is a serious 'CLUNK' from under the cab that started some months
>ago and sounds/behaves a lot like a loose shock absorber. It is easily
>summoned by driving over irregular pavement at low speeds, as it doesn't
>take much wheel or chassis movement to produce the clunking. After it began
>I installed new Monroe shocks all the way around and I've since checked the
>shock bushings and mounts - everything is tight. A friend suspects the
>radius arm bushings might be worn but I don't know how to tell for sure.
>They 'look' OK, the nuts are tight and I can't move them myself, but this
>probably doesn't prove anything. Engine mounts look good and I can't find
>a loose transmission mount or anything unsual about the front springs. Have
>any of you have experienced something similar? Any ideas what to check
>next? Thanks for any assistance.
>
>Steve Dyer
>
>
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Roy Houston
>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Date: Tuesday, October 05, 1999 4:40 PM
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Archives?
>
>
>>Steve, Welcome to the list. I think maybe the archives are gone?? Ken Payne
>>is that so? I have all the digests back to #21 of this year. Maybe I can do
>>a search an forward to you? Unless somebody else has a better suggestion.
>>
>>Roy
>
>
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>
>
"This message brought to you with 100% recycled electrons"
"Just the latest in environmentally friendly technology!"


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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 23:41:31 -0400
From: "Phil / Debi"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - profile ignition pickup?

I have an occasional miss in my 91 F150 with 300 six. I used a code scanner
and it came up with a code for the profile ignition pickup. I was wondering
if anyone knew what that is and where it is located and would that be the
cause of my miss.

Phil Beattie
66 F100
79 F250 4x4
91 F150 4x4
www.geocities.com/imstobu


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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 21:52:34 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - profile ignition pickup?

PIP is the signal generated by the hall-effect sensor in the distributor.
It is what tells the EEC what cylinder is firing and at what RPM the engine
is running, very important for ignition timing among other things. Anyway
it could be that the hall-effect sensor in the distributor is bad or, more
likely, the TFI module is bad, is it is what the signal goes through.

Rade Spasojevic -- rspasoje mindspring.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.2bigbroncos.org/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=194
- -Rubicon Tested-
- -----Original Message-----
From: Phil / Debi
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 8:41 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - profile ignition pickup?


>I have an occasional miss in my 91 F150 with 300 six. I used a code scanner
>and it came up with a code for the profile ignition pickup. I was wondering
>if anyone knew what that is and where it is located and would that be the
>cause of my miss.
>
>Phil Beattie
>66 F100
>79 F250 4x4
>91 F150 4x4
>www.geocities.com/imstobu
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 01:51:50 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Stumbling engine on hills

>>
>> It was replaced about a year ago, but I know it could need it again. I
>> doubt if that is it as it is not consistantly bad.
>>
>> Tonight the problem has turned into a continous miss pulling up the 5 miles
>> of hill from work. Then I stopped at a stoplight and it ran perfect after
>> that.
>
>A somewhat regular miss only under load can also be the high voltage side
>of the
>
>ignition system like plug wires, coils, coil wires, dist cap, rotor....used to
>drive me
>nuts with plug wires getting baked by headers.
>

Today I discoverd number 8 spark plug had its porcelain deformed and
cracked on the end. Probably from running lean on that cylinder. Someone
put too hot of plugs in too.

So I will put 8 new plugs of the right heat range in and see what happens.

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell....


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