From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #272
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80-96-list-digest Tuesday, September 28 1999 Volume 03 : Number 272



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - timing problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - timing problems
FTE 80-96 - holley 4180
FTE 80-96 - Re: 1992 Ford F-150 302
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: FTE news article
Re: FTE 80-96 - holley 4180
Re: FTE 80-96 - holley 4180
FTE 80-96 - cold automatic has trouble shifting
FTE 80-96 - Engine/Drivetrain Noise, 88 F250 4WD
Re: FTE 80-96 - Engine/Drivetrain Noise, 88 F250 4WD
FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96 Alternator problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - cold automatic has trouble shifting
FTE 80-96 - Re: 302 loud ticking noise
Re: FTE 80-96 - timing problems

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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 06:25:54 -0400
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - timing problems

I have an 85' I6 so my truck should be very similar to yours. Let's assume
that you, and the mechanic, are following the proper procedure for setting
the timing (disconnecting the computer from the distributor module). BTW
the distributor module can be mounted on the distributor itself or on the
fender well.
Anyway, if your distributor module is mounted on the distributor it might be
causing the problem. Ford has had some problems with heat sensitive
distributor modules that effect performance after they are warm. I don't
know of any way to check it other than to hang on a new part. You might try
removing it (requires a special tool that you can get at the parts store
unless you have a very thin walled socket) and reapplying some special heat
conductive grease. Caution: don't use just any grease!! Get the special
grease from the parts store.
Another possibility might be the MAP sensor, or the vacuum lines running to
the MAP sensor. The MAP sensor reads the Manifold Absolute Pressure and then
sends a signal to the computer to either advance, or retard the timing. The
Manifold Absolute Pressure will change with engine load. The MAP sensor
should be mounted near the battery. It's that little black box with a vacuum
line, and a wire, connected to it. Try disconnecting the vacuum line at the
MAP sensor and see if the idle changes. If not plug up the end of the line
and see what happens. If this procedure changes the idle then you could have
either a bad MAP sensor or a vacuum leak.
BTW does this happen only when you drive the vehicle, or does it happen if
you just set the timing and let the truck sit at idle for a while?

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ron Freidel
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Sunday, September 26, 1999 5:55 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - timing problems


>Hi all,
>
>I have an 85 F150 with a straight 6; a little history... the person I
>purchased it from said it had a new rebuild on the engine when he bought
>it and he had put 15,000 on it.
>
>It has a new exhaust manifold, carb (2bbl), radiator, and a bunch of new
>stuff.
>
>One thing I am not sure about is the distributor, I am having timing
>problems with the pickup though, I set the timing on friday night, put
>approx 1.5 miles on it, now the timing is advanced to the point where it
>diesel's when I turn it off, considerable ammount of heat was coming
>from under the hood as well...
>
>It doesn't matter who I get to set the timing, if i do it myself or have
>a mechanic do it, the result's are always the same, when it is done it
>runs like a new truck, shortly afterwards the timing seems to advance on
>it's own, it doesn't continue advancing though, just to a point to where
>it doesn't run very well.
>
>Has anyone ever seen a similar problem? Could it be the distributor?
>there doesn't seem to be any "play" in it....
>
>One more thing, I got into an argument friday night , you know how
>neighbors are, they were using me as an opportunity to stand around and
>drink beer while I was setting the timing, anyway, two of them thought
>that Ford used timing chain in their six's, while I argued that I
>thought it had gears, who is correct?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ron
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 07:39:17 -0400
From: Ron Freidel
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - timing problems

Hi,

Thanks for the reply's, it turned out to be the MAP sensor, the line
running to it was leaking, put a new one on it and now it runs great.

Though I miss the power I had with my '81 f350 and it's 400, the I6 gets
great mileage.

Later,
Ron
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 10:56:58 -0400
From: "Alger, Timothy, CTR, AFSAA/SAT"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - holley 4180

I have a question reguarding experience with the Motorcraft/Holley 4180 4bbl
carb. I own an '86 F150 5.8 liter with this carb. I needs to either be
rebuilt or replaced. Does anyone have any particular knowledge reguarding
these carbs? Several of the mechanics I mentioned this to didn't want to
rebuild it.

thanks
Tim Alger


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 10:07:57 -0500
From: "DannyF"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 1992 Ford F-150 302

Date sent: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 06:10:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
Sounds like someone changed/added to the coolant and didn't
purge the system of air. Or you let your reservoir run dry.This will
cause gurgling noises on startup and acceleration.

Just run the engine to operating temp w/the heater on full blast
w/the rad cap off. Add coolant to reservoir and rad if it needs it.
Then let it cool down.

Now do it again w/a full rad but before you shut the engine off
squeeze the upper rad hose to get rid of any air(watch out 'cause
hot coolant can come out of the rad) then top off again.

This is assuming you don't have some purge valve built into the
system. I don't recall on the '92 302.

Danny

> I can hear water sounds like it is in my dash is this in my heater core
> and how can I eliminate it? When I accelerate it sloshes around.
>
> Need Help Ronnie


Danny
danf01 worldnet.att.net
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 11:22:41 -0400
From: kpayne ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: FTE news article

Check out the news section of the web site at
http://www.ford-trucks.com/news/index.html

FTE has just published an article about the door stress crack
on 1997-1998 F150s. Additional articles about this will be
published in the near future.

Ken Payne
Admin
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 13:54:40 EDT
From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - holley 4180

In a message dated 9/27/99 9:10:53 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
Timothy.Alger pentagon.af.mil writes:


4bbl
carb. I own an '86 F150 5.8 liter with this carb. I needs to either be
rebuilt or replaced. Does anyone have any particular knowledge reguarding
these carbs? Several of the mechanics I mentioned this to didn't want to
rebuild it. >>

I'll bet the mechanics who don't want to rebuild this carb know how
difficult these are to set-up and adjust after rebuilding them. My '85 uses
this same carb and rebuilding it was relatively easy, but getting the float
settings and choke to operate correctly was a time consuming operation. The
instructions that come with the kits and the service manual procedures make
it sound easy, but it took several sessions of tweaking to get the floats
''just right''. They are very touchy and critical to fuel economy,
driveabily and idle.. If you do decide to rebuild it (ever price a
replacement??? WOW, big bucks), be sure to check the carb base plate with a
straight edge...they do warp causing a vacuum that can change with engine
temperature. A flat file will easily fix that...(don't file the manifold,
just the base plate of the carb while you have it apart) If you want to
boost your highway mileage, go to your Ford dealer and purchase a
High-Altitude 2-stage power valve (part# EOTZ*9A565*B)
Happy Motoring!!
Mike
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 12:52:57 -0700
From: "Beth and Tony Fischer"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - holley 4180

I also have a 1986 F-150 with the 5.8 litre (351) and the Holley/Motorcraft
4bbl carb, and JUST finished rebuilding it!!! (yesterday, in fact). It was
rebuild and reinstalled in about 4 hours, but I am still fighting with the
float levels, think I have them almost perfect. It was fairly easy to do
(i.e. no sensors or electronics to screw with!)

I now have a slight hesitation when "gunning" it from a stop, and if I keep
the pedal to the floor, it seems to lag a little bit before finally taking
off. Guess I still have some more tweaking to do!!

Let us know how the rebuild goes.

BTW, my rebuild kit was about $67 at NAPA, comparable to the other parts
houses in the area. Even the parts guy thought it was a spendy kit!!

Tony Fischer, Portland, Oregon

1986 F-150 4x4 XLT Lariat
Extended cab, long bed (doesn't turn very sharp at all!)
351W-H.O., built C-6

- -----Original Message-----
From: FULSZBRONC aol.com
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, September 27, 1999 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - holley 4180


>In a message dated 9/27/99 9:10:53 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
>Timothy.Alger pentagon.af.mil writes:
>
>
>4bbl
> carb. I own an '86 F150 5.8 liter with this carb. I needs to either be
> rebuilt or replaced. Does anyone have any particular knowledge reguarding
> these carbs? Several of the mechanics I mentioned this to didn't want to
> rebuild it. >>
>
> I'll bet the mechanics who don't want to rebuild this carb know how
>difficult these are to set-up and adjust after rebuilding them. My '85
uses
>this same carb and rebuilding it was relatively easy, but getting the float
>settings and choke to operate correctly was a time consuming operation.
The
>instructions that come with the kits and the service manual procedures make
>it sound easy, but it took several sessions of tweaking to get the floats
>''just right''. They are very touchy and critical to fuel economy,
>driveabily and idle.. If you do decide to rebuild it (ever price a
>replacement??? WOW, big bucks), be sure to check the carb base plate with
a
>straight edge...they do warp causing a vacuum that can change with engine
>temperature. A flat file will easily fix that...(don't file the manifold,
>just the base plate of the carb while you have it apart) If you want to
>boost your highway mileage, go to your Ford dealer and purchase a
>High-Altitude 2-stage power valve (part# EOTZ*9A565*B)
>Happy Motoring!!
>Mike


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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 15:39:09 -0500
From: Andy Norris
Subject: FTE 80-96 - cold automatic has trouble shifting

Hey there,

I have a problem with my (C6 3spd-auto) transmission taking its own sweet
time dropping into drive -- or any forward gear -- when the engine is cold.
There's no hesitation when shifting into reverse, though. And once it does
drop into a forward gear, it runs and shifts fine. When starting it warm,
the problem doesn't exist, either. And I would say that the pause has been
anywhere between no pause and 45 seconds.

Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions?

Thanks for any help,

Andy Norris
1989 F250 5.8L 351
Baldwin City, Kansas

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 16:26:03 -0500
From: "Williams, Michael A"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Engine/Drivetrain Noise, 88 F250 4WD

The engine/drivetrain on my 88 F250 4WD make a loud "grinding" sound which
tracks the RPM of the engine when the frame is submitted to torsion or
twisting as the vehicle is moved over uneven terrain. The "grinding" sound
is much like the sound emitting from a poorly lubricated leaf spring under
heavy load changes, but it never settles out, and follows engine RPM.

I thought the problem was in the drivetrain, and in fact found that the 4WD
transfer case was loose on the frame (actually the mount was loose on the
transfer case). I purchased two new bolts and reattached the mount to the
transfer case. The transfer case mount has fore and aft adjustment on the
two bolts which hold the mount to the frame. The transfer case is currently
all the way forward in this adjustment range. The sound still exists but
more torsion is required to make it sound off (A hard right turn is
sufficient). Could this fore/aft adjustment be the problem??

Both of the motor mounts are in good shape. The rear drive shaft and
universal joints have both been replaced and rebalanced. The front shaft
U-joints seem good. No driveshaft vibration can be felt at any speed. 4WD
operation is normal.

Thank you in advance for your assistance with this problem.

Mike Williams
Fort Worth, TX

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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 19:26:43 EDT
From: Spruce1495 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Engine/Drivetrain Noise, 88 F250 4WD

I'd look for something more elementary ( i have a small brain) like inside
tire rub on chassis or fender areas. Just a thought.
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 19:58:45 EDT
From: LGRanch aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - FTE 80-96 Alternator problems

I have a had both a 86 and now an 90 Bronco with a 302. I have been using up
alternators at a rate of every 9 months. The bearings quit or the regulator
dies. I have tried every big name rebuilder on the East coast, all of them
turn out the same. The replacement alternators died on both the 86 and the 90.

Also I have never found an alternator that does not need to be clocked. None
of them are set up for the truck. Most of the rebuilders refuse to warrenty
the alternate if it is clocked.

Does anyone have suggestions?
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 19:43:57 -0500
From: David Cole
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - cold automatic has trouble shifting

It sounds like it's time for a rebuild. The internal piston seals inside
the trans harden with age and don't seal very well when they (and the
fluid) is cold. So when the fluid is cold it just takes longer to build
enough pressure to apply the clutches and make it move. When the fluid is
hot the seals are nice and soft and do the job.

Later,

David Cole

At 03:39 PM 9/27/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Hey there,
>
>I have a problem with my (C6 3spd-auto) transmission taking its own sweet
>time dropping into drive -- or any forward gear -- when the engine is cold.
>There's no hesitation when shifting into reverse, though. And once it does
>drop into a forward gear, it runs and shifts fine. When starting it warm,
>the problem doesn't exist, either. And I would say that the pause has been
>anywhere between no pause and 45 seconds.
>
>Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks for any help,
>
>Andy Norris
>1989 F250 5.8L 351
>Baldwin City, Kansas


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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 18:33:29 -0700
From: don neomagic.com (Donald Paauw)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: 302 loud ticking noise

Well, I think I'm just going to live with the noise for now.
I brought my wife to the driveway, started the truck and no
ticking. Not at idle and not in gear with 1/2 throttle.

So we decided to get groceries & the thing ticked all the way
there and back. I told my wife that's the noise she had to
reproduce at home.

Got home & unloaded the groceries. Came back out & no noise
so we gave up. Started it up to go to work today & the ticking
was there immediately and all the way to work.

Maybe someday I'll get lucky & find it or unlucky & something
will give. I could live with it if it weren't such an embarrasing
sound. The only other times I've heard anything like it was when
an old beater with oxided paint & the rear end dragging came
down the road.

- -- Don
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 22:52:34 -0400
From: Ron Freidel
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - timing problems
....


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