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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #261
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80-96-list-digest Saturday, September 18 1999 Volume 03 : Number 261



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

[none]
[none]
FTE 80-96 - RE: [none] (oil leak)
FTE 80-96 - Re:dash&brake repair
FTE 80-96 - Re: timing adjustment
RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: timing adjustment
FTE 80-96 - suspension, poly bushings
RE: FTE 80-96 - suspension, poly bushings
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: timing adjustment
Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas Mileage
FTE 80-96 - Re: Radius arm Bushings
RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: timing adjustment
FTE 80-96 - 1990 F1-50 XLT
FTE 80-96 - Re: Gas Mileage
FTE 80-96 - 302 loud ticking noise
Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 loud ticking noise
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Gas Mileage
Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 loud ticking noise
Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 loud ticking noise
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1990 F1-50 XLT
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Gas Mileage
RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: timing adjustment
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Gas Mileage
FTE 80-96 - Re: Ford Truck Enthusiasts post
Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Gas Mileage

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 08:12:23 -0400
From: Dave Heverin
Subject: [none]

I have an old problem that I hope one of you can provide one of you can
provide an explanation for...

I have an 88' F150 (302ci w/AOD transmission). For the last 160,000 miles
the check engine light has flashed. More so in cool weather than hot. I
have used a hand-held code reader and it said that the EGR valve was not
working properly. So, I replaced it with an aftermarket unit I purchased at
PEP BOYS. The problem came back about a week later, so I took it to my Ford
dealer and they said that it needed an EGR valve. I said "no, thank you I
just put a new one on a week ago...". I have replaced the O2 sensor also,
but no change. The mileage is around 13.5mpg and the engine feels very
weak.

Could the lack of power be a timing issue? If so, can the timing be
adjusted on this engine. It has the EEC-IV computer system. Is the timing
adjustment something that can be adjusted by an average person? What tools
are needed?

Thanks for any help.

Dave
88' F150
92' Sable
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 08:19:33 -0400
From: "Golly, Scott M"
Subject: [none]

There is nothing to it. A couple of tips: If you have pulsation in the
pedal now, replace the rotors, they are only 35 bucks but make sure that you
buy good US steel. They can be found at NAPA. If the calipers are
sticking, don't rebuild them replace them. In Maryland (auto store here) it
is only $3 more to buy the rebuilt caliper than the rebuild kit so your time
is worth that. Nothing else big. The calipers are held together with
v-Clips which are to v strips of metal with rubber between them. Pinch the
Vs together and tap them out the other side with a screw driver. Make sure
that you replace the V-Clips with new ones (don't spend more than $6 for
them though), It helps limit the pulsation on the new rotors.

Scott M. Golly
- ------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 09:13:05 -0500
From: Robert M Sands m-sands juno.com>
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Disc Brakes

I need to replace the brakes on my 92 F-150 (300 CID). Any body have any
advice they would care to lend before I start the job ? I have'nt even
looked to see what I might be in for yet. Past brake jobs were never that
big of a deal. For instance : How are the calipurs secured on this
particular year and model ? Anything to watch out for with the ABS ? Any
comments on the type of replacement brake linings/pads to use ? Thanks

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 08:11:12 -0500
From: Paul M Radecki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: [none] (oil leak)

>>I have a 94' Ford F-150. I just bought it in June used. It had an oil
leak
***SNIPPED***
>>don't want anything else going wrong on my beautiful truck. The engine
is a
>>standard shift, 5 speed, V-6, 2 wheel drive.

Just FYI, Shannon, it's not a V-6. Unless somebody did a very weird
engine swap, it's an inline 6 or a V-8. I only mention this because the
more details about your truck you appear to know, the less likely a
dishonest mechanic will try to screw you.
I also have a '94, very much like yours, and I like it a lot. They
are beautiful trucks, also reliable and tough. Mine is an Oxford White
XL with a matching bed topper, smoke tinted windows and bug deflector,
and old-style factory aluminum slot mags.

lordjanusz juno.com
'94 F150 300ci I-6
'73 F100 FE V-8
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 08:55:04 -0500
From: "Waddell"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re:dash&brake repair

Thanks all for the dash repair input, I haven't decided yet. I have another
question. My front end makes a lot of noise, sounds like bearings and when
I apply the brakes it disappears. I looked at the rotors and noticed
there's a caliper support key that worked it self loose on the front right
wheel is there suppose to be a caliper support spring to keep the key in
position? and what holds the caliper to the rotor? Its on an '81 f-100
inline 6, auto,ps,1/2 ton. Thanks for any information about this problem.
Larry

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 10:09:43 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: timing adjustment

>I have an old problem that I hope one of you can provide one of you can
>provide an explanation for...
>
>I have an 88' F150 (302ci w/AOD transmission). For the last 160,000 miles
>the check engine light has flashed. More so in cool weather than hot. I
>have used a hand-held code reader and it said that the EGR valve was not
>working properly. So, I replaced it with an aftermarket unit I purchased at
>PEP BOYS. The problem came back about a week later, so I took it to my Ford
>dealer and they said that it needed an EGR valve. I said "no, thank you I
>just put a new one on a week ago...". I have replaced the O2 sensor also,
>but no change. The mileage is around 13.5mpg and the engine feels very
>weak.
>
>Could the lack of power be a timing issue? If so, can the timing be
>adjusted on this engine. It has the EEC-IV computer system. Is the timing
>adjustment something that can be adjusted by an average person? What tools
>are needed?
>

I would check the ignition timing. There is a little plastic plug that
plugs into the wiring harness near the base of the distributor. It might be
taped up. Just pull the plug out of it and it will disable the computer's
timing control. Then start the engine and check the timing at idle with a
timing light. It is supposed to be 10 deg BTDC. Once it is set, shut it off
and replace the plug in the wiring.

The EGR tube could be all plugged up with carbon. Maybe that is why it is
saying it is no good.

I just went through the top end of my 88 F-150 with about 130,000 miles.
The cam lobes were worn really bad, so I replaced it with a Crane Compucam
and am happy with the results. Mine had a double roller timing chain from
the factory that was still pretty good, but I replaced it anyway. Also put
in new valve seals. I did not pull the heads as the compression was really
great. Installed a set of shorty headers too. She runs really strong now
and gets about 15 mpg. This truck has a jap 5 speed overdrive and is a 4x4.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 10:57:09 -0400
From: Dave Heverin
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: timing adjustment

Blake,

Thanks for the input. I understand how to check the timing (use a timing
light to shine a beam onto the indicator at the front of the engine), but
HOW is the timing adjusted? Does the distributor need to be rotated? I
noticed that there seems to be a metal tab at the base of the distributor
shaft that is held in place with a screw. Do I loosen that to rotate the
distributor?

I'll check the EGR tube. Good suggestion, why didn't the dealer think to do
that????

Dave




- -----Original Message-----
From: Blake Malkamaki [mailto:blake little-mountain.com]
Sent: Friday, September 17, 1999 11:10 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: timing adjustment


>I have an old problem that I hope one of you can provide one of you can
>provide an explanation for...
>
>I have an 88' F150 (302ci w/AOD transmission). For the last 160,000 miles
>the check engine light has flashed. More so in cool weather than hot. I
>have used a hand-held code reader and it said that the EGR valve was not
>working properly. So, I replaced it with an aftermarket unit I purchased
at
>PEP BOYS. The problem came back about a week later, so I took it to my
Ford
>dealer and they said that it needed an EGR valve. I said "no, thank you I
>just put a new one on a week ago...". I have replaced the O2 sensor also,
>but no change. The mileage is around 13.5mpg and the engine feels very
>weak.
>
>Could the lack of power be a timing issue? If so, can the timing be
>adjusted on this engine. It has the EEC-IV computer system. Is the timing
>adjustment something that can be adjusted by an average person? What tools
>are needed?
>

I would check the ignition timing. There is a little plastic plug that
plugs into the wiring harness near the base of the distributor. It might be
taped up. Just pull the plug out of it and it will disable the computer's
timing control. Then start the engine and check the timing at idle with a
timing light. It is supposed to be 10 deg BTDC. Once it is set, shut it off
and replace the plug in the wiring.

The EGR tube could be all plugged up with carbon. Maybe that is why it is
saying it is no good.

I just went through the top end of my 88 F-150 with about 130,000 miles.
The cam lobes were worn really bad, so I replaced it with a Crane Compucam
and am happy with the results. Mine had a double roller timing chain from
the factory that was still pretty good, but I replaced it anyway. Also put
in new valve seals. I did not pull the heads as the compression was really
great. Installed a set of shorty headers too. She runs really strong now
and gets about 15 mpg. This truck has a jap 5 speed overdrive and is a 4x4.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 10:47:23 -0500
From: Roy Houston
Subject: FTE 80-96 - suspension, poly bushings

All this talk about radius arm bushings has got me working...

Who's got the best price on a full set of bushings? I want all of 'em,
radius arm, springs, control arms, etc. I've got a tie rod end to replace too.

I was thinking of getting some 3/4 ton springs from the salvage to replace
my 1/2s in the front. Mine are saggin' real bad and I'm forever into the
tires, 10.5 x 31.5 BFG AT T/As. Will the mountings fit? If it makes the
front too tall maybe I'll stick some 1" - 2" blocks in the rear.

Thanks y'all.

Hey Dave H. and Jim Cannon, how 'bout them 60 degree mornings, eh?

Roy

Roy Houston Richmond, TX (Houston southwest 'burb)
85 F-150XL SC 351W H.O 4V C4
98 GMC Safari 4.3
houston1 _at_ slb _dot_ com

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 09:28:30 -0700
From: Eric Sneed
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - suspension, poly bushings

Are =BE ton coils a direct replacement for the =BD coils? If so how =
much
lift will I get?

Eric
89 =BD ton

-----Original Message-----
From: Roy Houston [SMTP:houston1 slb.com]
Sent: Friday, September 17, 1999 8:47 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - suspension, poly bushings

All this talk about radius arm bushings has got me working...

Who's got the best price on a full set of bushings? I want all
of 'em,
radius arm, springs, control arms, etc. I've got a tie rod end
to replace too.

I was thinking of getting some 3/4 ton springs from the salvage
to replace
my 1/2s in the front. Mine are saggin' real bad and I'm forever
into the
tires, 10.5 x 31.5 BFG AT T/As. Will the mountings fit? If it
makes the
front too tall maybe I'll stick some 1" - 2" blocks in the rear.

Thanks y'all.

Hey Dave H. and Jim Cannon, how 'bout them 60 degree mornings,
eh?

Roy

Roy Houston Richmond, TX (Houston southwest 'burb)
85 F-150XL SC 351W H.O 4V C4=20
98 GMC Safari 4.3=20
houston1 _at_ slb _dot_ com

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 13:22:40 -0400
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: timing adjustment

I have been reading your discussion and you might want to check the gasket
and / or the condition of the after market EGR valve. I bought one and in
about a week the gasket crumbled and the EGR valve was virtually worthless
in that condition. In addition, I have been told and also read in the Haynes
Emission Control Manual that it is a "good" idea to replace the EGR valve
with a dealer part rather than an after market part because of the
sensitivity of the emission system to the performance of the EGR valve. Do
what you want, but I thought I should let you know.

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Heverin
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 10:57 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: timing adjustment


>Blake,
>
>Thanks for the input. I understand how to check the timing (use a timing
>light to shine a beam onto the indicator at the front of the engine), but
>HOW is the timing adjusted? Does the distributor need to be rotated? I
>noticed that there seems to be a metal tab at the base of the distributor
>shaft that is held in place with a screw. Do I loosen that to rotate the
>distributor?
>
>I'll check the EGR tube. Good suggestion, why didn't the dealer think to
do
>that????
>
>Dave
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Blake Malkamaki [mailto:blake little-mountain.com]
>Sent: Friday, September 17, 1999 11:10 AM
>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: timing adjustment
>
>
>>I have an old problem that I hope one of you can provide one of you can
>>provide an explanation for...
>>
>>I have an 88' F150 (302ci w/AOD transmission). For the last 160,000 miles
>>the check engine light has flashed. More so in cool weather than hot. I
>>have used a hand-held code reader and it said that the EGR valve was not
>>working properly. So, I replaced it with an aftermarket unit I purchased
>at
>>PEP BOYS. The problem came back about a week later, so I took it to my
>Ford
>>dealer and they said that it needed an EGR valve. I said "no, thank you I
>>just put a new one on a week ago...". I have replaced the O2 sensor also,
>>but no change. The mileage is around 13.5mpg and the engine feels very
>>weak.
>>
>>Could the lack of power be a timing issue? If so, can the timing be
>>adjusted on this engine. It has the EEC-IV computer system. Is the
timing
>>adjustment something that can be adjusted by an average person? What
tools
>>are needed?
>>
>
>I would check the ignition timing. There is a little plastic plug that
>plugs into the wiring harness near the base of the distributor. It might be
>taped up. Just pull the plug out of it and it will disable the computer's
>timing control. Then start the engine and check the timing at idle with a
>timing light. It is supposed to be 10 deg BTDC. Once it is set, shut it off
>and replace the plug in the wiring.
>
>The EGR tube could be all plugged up with carbon. Maybe that is why it is
>saying it is no good.
>
>I just went through the top end of my 88 F-150 with about 130,000 miles.
>The cam lobes were worn really bad, so I replaced it with a Crane Compucam
>and am happy with the results. Mine had a double roller timing chain from
>the factory that was still pretty good, but I replaced it anyway. Also put
>in new valve seals. I did not pull the heads as the compression was really
>great. Installed a set of shorty headers too. She runs really strong now
>and gets about 15 mpg. This truck has a jap 5 speed overdrive and is a 4x4.
>
>
>Blake
>Little Mountain
>Concord, Ohio
>Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
>"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
>"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 13:27:44 EDT
From: Awfanning aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas Mileage

In a message dated 9/17/99 3:54:11 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Blake writes:

>

No doubt it depends on the specific engine, trans and vehicle
characteristics, but on my '82 F-150 with 300 ci engine, 2.73 rear axle
ratio, and 4 spd manual OD trans I get a couple of miles better MPG in 4th
(OD) than in 3rd (1:1 ratio) at about any rpm the engine will pull. At 60
mph I'm under 1500 rpm in 4th.

I once had a driving computer hooked up that gave me instantaneous and trip
average mpg readouts. Quite entertaining when you are going down hill with
you foot off the gas pedal and seeing... whoa! 147 mpg or the like.

Alan Fanning
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 11:39:10 -0700
From: Vogt
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Radius arm Bushings

On Thu, 16 Sep 1999, "Radoje Spasojevic" wrote:
>
> For durability I would go with the poly bushings. There are those that say
> the rubber bushings are better for off road because they are softer, but I
> have also been told that the companies that make poly bushings make them to
> be softer and firmer depending on the application.

This isn't the same in a TTB application because they are not carrying
the weight as they are in a leaf sprung one. All they are is a hinge
point. I replaced mine and noticed no difference other than the fact
that when I look under there now I don't have to worry that they will
fall out from rot.

Birken
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 14:56:10 -0400
From: Dave Heverin
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: timing adjustment

Mike, thanks for the info. Maybe I'll just go buy an EGR from the dealer
(even though they are a premium price...)

Dave




- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael McCarthy [mailto:mpmccarthy worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Friday, September 17, 1999 1:23 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: timing adjustment


I have been reading your discussion and you might want to check the gasket
and / or the condition of the after market EGR valve. I bought one and in
about a week the gasket crumbled and the EGR valve was virtually worthless
in that condition. In addition, I have been told and also read in the Haynes
Emission Control Manual that it is a "good" idea to replace the EGR valve
with a dealer part rather than an after market part because of the
sensitivity of the emission system to the performance of the EGR valve. Do
what you want, but I thought I should let you know.

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 17:37:35 -0400
From: Fletcher Pilling
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1990 F1-50 XLT

Hi: This is my first time posting a request so please bear with me.

I have a 1990 f-150 supercab with a FI 5.0 and AOD transmission. I have
all of the power options for the xlt model.

I am looking for information on how to replace my odometer with one that
has a tripometer as well. Does anyone have any suggestions?

I am also looking for a soft bed cover that can be used with a tool box.
Any help would be great. This is a great site and please keep up the
work

Fletcher Pilling
jfpilling home.com
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 15:36:29 -0700
From: "Joan and Walt Posluszny"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Gas Mileage

Michael, I too have an 85, mine is 4x4 long bed reg cab, 351W-2V, 4 Spd
manual O.D., stock limited slips(front & rear) 3.50 RAR, 31x10.5x15's, K&N
filter and Jacobs Mileage master, all else stock and I average 13.5 in mixed
driving. Do not know what straight highway mileage would be. When I lived
in Colorado (5280ft) and traveled between Casper and Denver twice a month I
got 17 mpg consistently but that was 14 years ago when the speed limit was
55. Not now. Walt

[snip]
> The truck is a stock I6-300 for 1985. AOD(?) automatic transmission and I
> have no idea about the rear end. Standard tires 15". I haven't modified the
> truck at all really. Probably should given the mileage I get. I think it's
> all the emission stuff. Soem of it looks pretty loose and it might fall off
> some day, who knows?
>
> Michael McCarthy
> Export, PA
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 16:28:09 -0700
From: don neomagic.com (Donald Paauw)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 302 loud ticking noise

I wasn't sure which list to post this to, so I'm hitting three lists.
If it starts looking familiar, I apologize.

I've got a '90 Ranger with a '92 302 transplanted into it w/ AOD transmission.
A few weeks ago I noticed a slight ticking noise that I thought was a lifter.
It got louder when I shifted into drive with the brake on. During the first
week the noise came & went and was louder under a load. At idle it is very
faint. Now it has gotten worse and is sharper & louder than a lifter and I'm
thinking it may be exhaust related. It's not always present when I start the
truck but always shows up as the engine warms up. I poked around with a
rubber hose on a stethescope and there's no noise inside the valve cover.
The noise seems loudest at the passenger side rear of the engine. Unfortunately,
the 302 is a tight fit and the A/C evaporator, the valve cover and the air
intake all form an interference fit in this area so I can't really directly
observe the engine there. The noise is audible over a very loud 3" Borla
muffler, so I'd say it's significant.
I've got a mechanical temp guage and the engine temp has never been over 220.
So does anyone have any suggestions as to what the cause might be and any methods
how I could narrow this down?

Thanks,
Don
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 19:47:35 -0400
From: Martin Horne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 loud ticking noise

Hi.
I had a similar problem with a Jeep 4.0 a few years back that "ticked" very
loudly, especially when under heavy loads. It turned out to be a crack in
the exhaust manifold on the underside near the head. As the motor warmed
up, the manifold expanded and the "tick" got louder. I had it replaced (was
a company vehicle) but the shop said it could have been welded if I hadn't
been so picky. They had originally tried to convince me it was 1st) an
injector and then 2nd) a lifter as it got louder and louder over time.
Hope this helps

Martin
'86 Bronco 302. LI, NY

At 04:28 PM 9/17/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>I wasn't sure which list to post this to, so I'm hitting three lists.
>If it starts looking familiar, I apologize.
>
>I've got a '90 Ranger with a '92 302 transplanted into it w/ AOD transmission.
>A few weeks ago I noticed a slight ticking noise that I thought was a lifter.
>It got louder when I shifted into drive with the brake on. During the first
>week the noise came & went and was louder under a load. At idle it is very
>faint. Now it has gotten worse and is sharper & louder than a lifter and I'm
>thinking it may be exhaust related. It's not always present when I start the
>truck but always shows up as the engine warms up. I poked around with a
>rubber hose on a stethescope and there's no noise inside the valve cover.
>The noise seems loudest at the passenger side rear of the engine.
>Unfortunately,
>the 302 is a tight fit and the A/C evaporator, the valve cover and the air
>intake all form an interference fit in this area so I can't really directly
>observe the engine there. The noise is audible over a very loud 3" Borla
>muffler, so I'd say it's significant.
>I've got a mechanical temp guage and the engine temp has never been over 220.
>So does anyone have any suggestions as to what the cause might be and any
>methods
>how I could narrow this down?
>
>Thanks,
>Don
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 19:49:31 -0500
From: "Ed Mount"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Gas Mileage

Walt, maybe you are the guy to answer my question. I have been running back
and forth from Missouri to Colorado for the past two years. Every time I
get out there in the higher elevations (9000-12000 ft.) my gas mileage on my
f150 5.8liter 4X4 goes up, sometimes as high as 17.5 mpg. Here in the
flatlands I do good to maintain 13mpg. Nobody seems to know why that
happens. Did you observe that in your truck when you lived out there?
I am theorizing that maybe my O2 sensor is acting funny. Does that make
sense? The speed limit doesn't have anything to do with it on mine, I have
tried driving 55-60, still gets a boring 13 mpg.

Ed


- -----Original Message-----
From: Joan and Walt Posluszny
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 5:52 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Gas Mileage


|Michael, I too have an 85, mine is 4x4 long bed reg cab, 351W-2V, 4 Spd
|manual O.D., stock limited slips(front & rear) 3.50 RAR, 31x10.5x15's, K&N
|filter and Jacobs Mileage master, all else stock and I average 13.5 in
mixed
|driving. Do not know what straight highway mileage would be. When I lived
|in Colorado (5280ft) and traveled between Casper and Denver twice a month I
|got 17 mpg consistently but that was 14 years ago when the speed limit was
|55. Not now. Walt
|
|[snip]
|> The truck is a stock I6-300 for 1985. AOD(?) automatic transmission and I
|> have no idea about the rear end. Standard tires 15". I haven't modified
the
|> truck at all really. Probably should given the mileage I get. I think
it's
|> all the emission stuff. Soem of it looks pretty loose and it might fall
off
|> some day, who knows?
|>
|> Michael McCarthy
|> Export, PA
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 17:43:12 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 loud ticking noise

Cracked exhaust manifold would be my guess as well. Of course it'll be the hardest
one to get to... (Murphy)

Bob


Donald Paauw wrote:

> I wasn't sure which list to post this to, so I'm hitting three lists.
> If it starts looking familiar, I apologize.
>
> I've got a '90 Ranger with a '92 302 transplanted into it w/ AOD transmission.
> A few weeks ago I noticed a slight ticking noise that I thought was a lifter.
> It got louder when I shifted into drive with the brake on. During the first
> week the noise came & went and was louder under a load. At idle it is very
> faint. Now it has gotten worse and is sharper & louder than a lifter and I'm
> thinking it may be exhaust related. It's not always present when I start the
> truck but always shows up as the engine warms up. I poked around with a
> rubber hose on a stethescope and there's no noise inside the valve cover.
> The noise seems loudest at the passenger side rear of the engine. Unfortunately,
> the 302 is a tight fit and the A/C evaporator, the valve cover and the air
> intake all form an interference fit in this area so I can't really directly
> observe the engine there. The noise is audible over a very loud 3" Borla
> muffler, so I'd say it's significant.
> I've got a mechanical temp guage and the engine temp has never been over 220.
> So does anyone have any suggestions as to what the cause might be and any methods
> how I could narrow this down?
>
> Thanks,
> Don
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 07:50:52 -0500
From: Mike Persell
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 302 loud ticking noise

At 05:43 PM 9/17/99 -0700, you wrote:

Or as I recently lived through, if its got a carb, it could be a leaky
heat riser valve.


>Cracked exhaust manifold would be my guess as well. Of course it'll be the
>hardest
>one to get to... (Murphy)
>
>Bob
>
>
>Donald Paauw wrote:
>
> > I wasn't sure which list to post this to, so I'm hitting three lists.
> > If it starts looking familiar, I apologize.
> >
> > I've got a '90 Ranger with a '92 302 transplanted into it w/ AOD
> transmission.
> > A few weeks ago I noticed a slight ticking noise that I thought was a
> lifter.
> > It got louder when I shifted into drive with the brake on. During the
> first
> > week the noise came & went and was louder under a load. At idle it is very
> > faint. Now it has gotten worse and is sharper & louder than a lifter
> and I'm
> > thinking it may be exhaust related. It's not always present when I
> start the
> > truck but always shows up as the engine warms up. I poked around with a
> > rubber hose on a stethescope and there's no noise inside the valve cover.
> > The noise seems loudest at the passenger side rear of the
> engine. Unfortunately,
> > the 302 is a tight fit and the A/C evaporator, the valve cover and the air
> > intake all form an interference fit in this area so I can't really directly
> > observe the engine there. The noise is audible over a very loud 3" Borla
> > muffler, so I'd say it's significant.
> > I've got a mechanical temp guage and the engine temp has never been
> over 220.
> > So does anyone have any suggestions as to what the cause might be and
> any methods
> > how I could narrow this down?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Don
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 20:06:18 -0500
From: "Ed Mount"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1990 F1-50 XLT

Don't know if this applies or not, but will pass it on for what it is worth.
I have a 94 F150, and wanted an instrument cluster that had a tachometer. I
went to the salvage yard and bought a complete cluster for $100 that had
what I wanted. I took out the old cluster (in my truck, it is a complete
single unit) plugged in the new one, and the tachometer worked great. No
extra wiring had to be done, everything was already in the harness. I had
checked with my local Ford dealer, and they had informed me that it wouldn't
work without additional wiring, and they wanted almost $500 to do the job.
Other Ford folks on the list said it would work, so I chanced it and they
were right.
I guess what I am saying is maybe you can find a used instrument cluster
that has the option you want. I don't know if your model has the electronic
speedometer/odometer/tripmeter/tachometer, etc, so this may not work for
you. But my advice is just keep asking, someone on this list will know.
Also, if your Ford dealer gives you advice, get a second opinion. (Had to
get that shot in.)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Fletcher Pilling
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 4:53 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1990 F1-50 XLT


|Hi: This is my first time posting a request so please bear with me.
|
|I have a 1990 f-150 supercab with a FI 5.0 and AOD transmission. I have
|all of the power options for the xlt model.
|
|I am looking for information on how to replace my odometer with one that
|has a tripometer as well. Does anyone have any suggestions?
|
|I am also looking for a soft bed cover that can be used with a tool box.
|Any help would be great. This is a great site and please keep up the
|work
|
|Fletcher Pilling
|jfpilling home.com
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 08:05:10 -0500
From: Mike Persell
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Gas Mileage

You may have a detonation problem and the system is backing the ignition timing
way back. We used to advance timing 2 deg per 1000 ft altitude due to the lack
of air.

Mike


At 07:49 PM 9/17/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Walt, maybe you are the guy to answer my question. I have been running back
>and forth from Missouri to Colorado for the past two years. Every time I
>get out there in the higher elevations (9000-12000 ft.) my gas mileage on my
>f150 5.8liter 4X4 goes up, sometimes as high as 17.5 mpg. Here in the
>flatlands I do good to maintain 13mpg. Nobody seems to know why that
>happens. Did you observe that in your truck when you lived out there?
>I am theorizing that maybe my O2 sensor is acting funny. Does that make
>sense? The speed limit doesn't have anything to do with it on mine, I have
>tried driving 55-60, still gets a boring 13 mpg.
>
>Ed
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Joan and Walt Posluszny
>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 5:52 PM
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Gas Mileage
>
>
>|Michael, I too have an 85, mine is 4x4 long bed reg cab, 351W-2V, 4 Spd
>|manual O.D., stock limited slips(front & rear) 3.50 RAR, 31x10.5x15's, K&N
>|filter and Jacobs Mileage master, all else stock and I average 13.5 in
>mixed
>|driving. Do not know what straight highway mileage would be. When I lived
>|in Colorado (5280ft) and traveled between Casper and Denver twice a month I
>|got 17 mpg consistently but that was 14 years ago when the speed limit was
>|55. Not now. Walt
>|
>|[snip]
>|> The truck is a stock I6-300 for 1985. AOD(?) automatic transmission and I
>|> have no idea about the rear end. Standard tires 15". I haven't modified
>the
>|> truck at all really. Probably should given the mileage I get. I think
>it's
>|> all the emission stuff. Soem of it looks pretty loose and it might fall
>off
>|> some day, who knows?
>|>
>|> Michael McCarthy
>|> Export, PA
>|== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>|
>
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 22:04:05 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: timing adjustment

>Blake,
>
>Thanks for the input. I understand how to check the timing (use a timing
>light to shine a beam onto the indicator at the front of the engine), but
>HOW is the timing adjusted? Does the distributor need to be rotated? I
>noticed that there seems to be a metal tab at the base of the distributor
>shaft that is held in place with a screw. Do I loosen that to rotate the
>distributor?
>
>I'll check the EGR tube. Good suggestion, why didn't the dealer think to do
>that????
>
>Dave

Yes Dave, you just loosen that 5/16 screw and rotate the distributor --
just like the old ones. If it has not been moved in a long time, it may be
stuck and need loosening. I would take the screw out and CAREFULLY try to
lift up on it to free it. There is a tool called a distributor puller that
you may be able to borrow from someone if need be. You don't need to pull
it all the way out- just a fraction of an inch to free it, then rotate it
to your timing.

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 22:03:55 -0500
From: "Ed Mount"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Gas Mileage

Mike, how will I know if I have a detonation problem? Other than the low
mpg, my truck seems to run just fine. And if I do find a detonation
problem, what do I do to the timing to get better mileage in the lowlands?
Back it off a few degrees?
Ed
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Persell
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 8:18 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Gas Mileage


|You may have a detonation problem and the system is backing the ignition
timing
|way back. We used to advance timing 2 deg per 1000 ft altitude due to the
lack
|of air.
|
|Mike
|
|At 07:49 PM 9/17/99 -0500, you wrote:
|>Walt, maybe you are the guy to answer my question. I have been running
back
|>and forth from Missouri to Colorado for the past two years. Every time I
|>get out there in the higher elevations (9000-12000 ft.) my gas mileage on
my
|>f150 5.8liter 4X4 goes up, sometimes as high as 17.5 mpg. Here in the
|>flatlands I do good to maintain 13mpg. Nobody seems to know why that
|>happens. Did you observe that in your truck when you lived out there?
|>I am theorizing that maybe my O2 sensor is acting funny. Does that make
|>sense? The speed limit doesn't have anything to do with it on mine, I
have
|>tried driving 55-60, still gets a boring 13 mpg.
|>
|>Ed
|>
|>-----Original Message-----
|>From: Joan and Walt Posluszny
|>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
|>Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 5:52 PM
|>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Gas Mileage
|>
|>
|>|Michael, I too have an 85, mine is 4x4 long bed reg cab, 351W-2V, 4 Spd
|>|manual O.D., stock limited slips(front & rear) 3.50 RAR, 31x10.5x15's,
K&N
|>|filter and Jacobs Mileage master, all else stock and I average 13.5 in
|>mixed
|>|driving. Do not know what straight highway mileage would be. When I
lived
|>|in Colorado (5280ft) and traveled between Casper and Denver twice a month
I
|>|got 17 mpg consistently but that was 14 years ago when the speed limit
was
|>|55. Not now. Walt
|>|
|>|[snip]
|>|> The truck is a stock I6-300 for 1985. AOD(?) automatic transmission and
I
|>|> have no idea about the rear end. Standard tires 15". I haven't modified
|>the
|>|> truck at all really. Probably should given the mileage I get. I think
|>it's
|>|> all the emission stuff. Soem of it looks pretty loose and it might fall
|>off
|>|> some day, who knows?
|>|>
|>|> Michael McCarthy
|>|> Export, PA
|>|== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
|>|
|>
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 00:11:50 -0700
From: "Dave Pitt"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Ford Truck Enthusiasts post

>Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 08:52:56 -0700
>From: Eric Sneed
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Radius arm Bushings
>
>I need to replace the radius arm bushings on my 89 150 and had a couple
>of questions.
>1. what grade, size bolts should I use once I grind off the rivets
>2. Should I use rubber or poly bushings, I called the dealer and
>they said that the front bushings are poly and the rear is rubber.
>3. Is grinding and beating the rivets out the best way to go?
>
>Any help would be appreciated
>
>Eric
>1989 F150 L6 4sp 4x4
>
>
>Eric,
>
>Don't grind or cut the rivets. The rivets are put there for a reason.
They
>are stronger then bolts. Get some friends and get a big bar [read heavy]
or
>a small chain fall. Pull, push or jack the axle forward to get the
bushings
>out. It isn't as hard as it sounds. Thats how my tech's do it at my shop.
>They can have set in aprox. 30-45 minutes.
>
>Dave


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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 11:22:08 -0500
From: Mike Persell
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Gas Mileage

At 10:03 PM 9/17/99 -0500, you wrote:

The knock sensors work very fast and they sense vibration in the engine
and dial back the timing until the vibration stops, you won't know it happened.
I kicked mine by cleaning out the combustion chambers with a couple of
cans of Techroline and then I used a higher octane gas. The gas mileage
jumped way up and the engine operating temp went down a little.

Since then I use a can of Techroline every 3 months.

Mike


>Mike, how will I know if I have a detonation problem? Other than the low
>mpg, my truck seems to run just fine. And if I do find a detonation
>problem, what do I do to the timing to get better mileage in the lowlands?
>Back it off a few degrees?
>Ed
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike Persell
>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 8:18 PM
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Re: Gas Mileage
>
>
>|You may have a detonation problem and the system is backing the ignition
>timing
>|way back. We used to advance timing 2 deg per 1000 ft altitude due to the
>lack
>|of air.
>|
>|Mike
>|
>|At 07:49 PM 9/17/99 -0500, you wrote:
>|>Walt, maybe you are the guy to answer my question. I have been running
>back
>|>and forth from Missouri to Colorado for the past two years. Every time I
>|>get out there in the higher elevations (9000-12000 ft.) my gas mileage on
>my
>|>f150 5.8liter 4X4 goes up, sometimes as high as 17.5 mpg. Here in the
>|>flatlands I do good to maintain 13mpg. Nobody seems to know why that
>|>happens. Did you observe that in your truck when you lived out there?
>|>I am theorizing that maybe my O2 sensor is acting funny. Does that make
>|>sense? The speed limit doesn't have anything to do with it on mine, I....


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