From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
To: 80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #260
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80-96-list-digest Friday, September 17 1999 Volume 03 : Number 260



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas Mileage
Re: FTE 80-96 - Making a healthier 302?
FTE 80-96 - Disc Brakes
Re: [FTE 80-96 - Less posts than usual on Digest???]
FTE 80-96 - Radius arm Bushings
[none]
FTE 80-96 - Diesel Tranny and Steering Gear
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius arm Bushings
Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas Mileage
FTE 80-96 - Pro*jection info wanted FTE 80-96 - Pro*jection info wanted FTE 80-96 - Pro*jection info wanted
Re: FTE 80-96 - Less posts than usual on Digest???
[none]
FTE 80-96 - Re: No Subject
Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius arm Bushings
Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas Mileage
FTE 80-96 - Dash Cap

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 09:10:46 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas Mileage

>I thought 12.6 MPG was bad myself, but I am at a loss as to what to do about
>it. I have recently overhauled basically everything under the hood including
>a replacing the carburetor and I thought my gas mileage would improve.
>Especially since the old carb was leaking fuel through a crack in the
>housing.
>One thing I forgot to mention about my 85 I6-300 with regard to gas mileage
>is that the truck was originally purchased in California. It has all of the
>smog stuff on it. I mean, all of it.
>I am a shade tree mechanic so I haven't had the carb "professionally" tuned
>but the truck idles at the proper RPM's and seems to run reasonably well.
>Any suggestions on what to do next would be appreciated.
>

Is it a 4x4? What transmission? What gearing? What size tires? Some of this
information might help us think up some suggestions.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 09:13:04 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Making a healthier 302?

>Got a friend who has a 98 Subdivision (suburban) with a 454. Changed the
>engine
>oil at 10,000 to Mobil 1 and went up 1 mpg. I told him to change the
>differential
>to 75-90 synthetic and he went up to 13.5 mpg. Gear oils are ignored and can
>generally help the most, especially on those balmy Ohio winters.
>

Yea, and I just put bar and chain oil in my transmission to help it stay in
there longer. So far it is working fine.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 09:13:05 -0500
From: Robert M Sands
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Disc Brakes

I need to replace the brakes on my 92 F-150 (300 CID). Any body have any
advice they would care to lend before I start the job ? I have'nt even
looked to see what I might be in for yet. Past brake jobs were never that
big of a deal. For instance : How are the calipurs secured on this
particular year and model ? Anything to watch out for with the ABS ? Any
comments on the type of replacement brake linings/pads to use ? Thanks

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------------------------------

Date: 16 Sep 99 08:36:13 PDT
From: William Berninghausen
Subject: Re: [FTE 80-96 - Less posts than usual on Digest???]

"Dave Harmier" wrote:
> Last three Digests only 3 or 4 posts long?
> Anyone else?
> =

> Dave H.
> Houston, TX
> =3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq=
=2Ehtml
- ---------------
9/12--#255--6 posts
9/13--#256--4 posts
9/14--#257--12 posts
9/15--#258--4 posts
9/16--#259--11 posts

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 08:52:56 -0700
From: Eric Sneed
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Radius arm Bushings

I need to replace the radius arm bushings on my 89 150 and had a couple
of questions.
1. what grade, size bolts should I use once I grind off the rivets
2. Should I use rubber or poly bushings, I called the dealer and
they said that the front bushings are poly and the rear is rubber.
3. Is grinding and beating the rivets out the best way to go?

Any help would be appreciated

Eric
1989 F150 L6 4sp 4x4
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 10:19:31 -0600
From: Fred Moreno
Subject: [none]

Bill Writes;

I am seeking info on rich and lean mixture control, if any, with
this f.i.
> system. All of a sudden my power has dropped and my fuel mileage
has
gotten
> about 25% better. I'm not complaining about the mileage, but I
sure do
miss
> the power.
Haven't looked
at
> codes or spent any time at Ford shop......yet. Don't really want
to. Any
> suggestions? I'm a good listener. Waiting.
>
> Bill B., Radcliff,KY

Hey Bill,

We had an truck do something like this a couple of years ago while my
partner and I were doing a training class for the New Mexico Highway Dept
and the truck just about drove us nuts. Same symptoms you describe, lack of
power, lean condition while driving under light to moderate load (throttle).
The truck was just sluggish. Once you got it up in RPM's it was more or less
back to normal, but getting there was a chore. No Check Engine light to clue
us in, scanner showed most parameters were normal but we were not looking
hard enough...

My partner hooked up his Digital Volt-meter to various sensors ( just for
giggles - hell we had to look like we knew what we were doing, we were the
instructors!). We looked at the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and wow, the
voltage was not behaving correctly.
With the ignition key ON, and engine OFF you expect see a gradual increase
in voltage as you gradually increasing the throttle angle. This is a linear
device.
We did not observe this, what we saw was the TPS idle voltage increase just
a hair as the throttle increased, and then remain constant until the
throttle angle was about halfway through its travel Only then would the TPS
voltage behave normally. Conclusion is the wiper arm in the TPS was shot,
kaput, no bueno. Replaced the TPS and problem is resolved. Even the local
ford dealership had not caught this. We were Gods in their eyes!

A TPS is really just a variable resitor just like an old fashion volume
control, eventually it can wear out the contacts and then you have the
garbage in - garbage out syndrome. Typically at closed throttle you should
expect to see somewhere in the range of 0.8~0.95 Volts. As you gradually
increase the throttle angle, this voltage should also gradually increase to
a maximum of about 4.5 Volts.
Hope this help you.

Last three Digests only 3 or 4 posts long?
Anyone else?

Dave H.
Houston, TX

Yes I have received the last postings with few messages, did everyone go on
vacation at the same time?

Feinstein-Gorton amendment is just another example of how much power our
government is taking from its own people including the over regulation of
commerce. Jefferson was right, we need a revolution from time to time.
Government by the people, for the people, not government on the people.
Sorry admin, but that last comment was Ford related, my 2 pesos.

Phred
1995 F-150 4X4, 302, 5-speed, FTE & Warning MSD sticker on back window


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 12:00:06 -0700
From: Vogt
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Diesel Tranny and Steering Gear

Yesterday while pulling a ski boat around (it's broken and I am the
designated fixer), my C6 decided that it was a good day to start making
WOT upshifts at 3100 instead of its usual 2600. (6.9 diesel). I don't
like this as much because the truck went just fine when shifting at
2600, and I'd like my motor to last a very long time.

Also, does anyone have a procedure for adjusting the steering gear? The
one I looked up said to disconnect some linkage and measure torque on
the steering wheel, etc.

Thanks,
Birken
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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 12:24:08 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius arm Bushings

Grade 8 would be the replacement bolt. They are 1/2" I think. I personally
like rubber, but there are some excellent graphite impregnated poly ones out
ther as well.
The space under the truck is open enough for either grinding, torching or
drilling.
I drilled mine. Used a 1/4" bit to start a pilot hole, center punched the
head and drilled down about 1/4", switched to a 1/2" and drilled the rivet
out. You'll need a good 1/2" drill (5.5 amp +) to make this job go easier.

Bob


Eric Sneed wrote:

> I need to replace the radius arm bushings on my 89 150 and had a couple
> of questions.
> 1. what grade, size bolts should I use once I grind off the rivets
> 2. Should I use rubber or poly bushings, I called the dealer and
> they said that the front bushings are poly and the rear is rubber.
> 3. Is grinding and beating the rivets out the best way to go?
>
> Any help would be appreciated
>
> Eric
> 1989 F150 L6 4sp 4x4
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 17:30:19 -0400
From: "Michael McCarthy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas Mileage

The
- -----Original Message-----
From: Blake Malkamaki
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, September 16, 1999 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas Mileage


The truck is a stock I6-300 for 1985. AOD(?) automatic transmission and I
have no idea about the rear end. Standard tires 15". I haven't modified the
truck at all really. Probably should given the mileage I get. I think it's
all the emission stuff. Soem of it looks pretty loose and it might fall off
some day, who knows?

Michael McCarthy
Export, PA



>Is it a 4x4? What transmission? What gearing? What size tires? Some of this
>information might help us think up some suggestions.
>
>
>Blake
>Little Mountain
>Concord, Ohio
>Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
>"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
>"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 18:59:00 EDT
From: craig n eggerman
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Pro*jection info wanted FTE 80-96 - Pro*jection info wanted FTE 80-96 - Pro*jection info wanted

The problem is excess heat and the hot gas returned to the tank.

I have an 89 E-350 that did the same thing and this was on a fuel
injected 460. We changed out the fuel pump in the tank with a replacement
pump from NAPA and have not had a problem since then. This was on the
advise of a Ford mechanic in Moab Utah. He said when the weather warms up
the E-350s start dropping like flys down there.

Other improvements were to cut the mickey mouse exhaust off from behind
the catalytic converter including the last 3 inches of the cat and
straight run 3 1/2 all the way back with a good free flow muffler. This
significantly improved the power band response with a minimum amount of
noise increase. We suspected that the cat might be plugged but when we
tested it the pressure differential was not measurable. Temperatures
also are lower. I put a small 10" pusher fan on the front but don't know
if this helped much.

The neatest thing I have seen is one unit with two school bus heaters
with fans mounted under the frame. The coolant comes off of a tee on the
heater hoses. The fans are controlled with a switch in the cab. This one
works great.

The second one is a copper line that is connected to the fresh water pump
in the motor home that goes to a spray nozzle in front of the radiator.
When it starts to run a little warm the guy turns a lever on the floor
and it sprays water out over the radiator. This one also works and is a
little easier to plumb in than the other method.

Craig
Eggerman juno.com
Casper,Wyoming
O|||||O

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 19:00:35 EDT
From: LGRanch aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Less posts than usual on Digest???

This will probably get a negative responce, but I respond less because the
forum is becoming filled with NON FORD dicsussions.
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 23:10:58 GMT
From: "shannon hoyt"
Subject: [none]

I have a 94' Ford F-150. I just bought it in June used. It had an oil leak
and I made it known to the dealership. No help there. I just took it in for
an Oil change and have been told that the front seals are gone and the rear
seals are going out. It only has 70340 miles on it. I have been qouted
between $500-$600 for repairs. Am I getting taken for a ride, or just get it
fixed. Any reasons why the seals are so bad with this somewhat low mileage?
It would really help justify spending the money. Aside from the fact that I
don't want anything else going wrong on my beautiful truck. The engine is a
standard shift, 5 speed, V-6, 2 wheel drive.
Send help before I spend uneeded money Please.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 20:40:30 EDT
From: DENKC5 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: No Subject

I'm not a mech, but the seals going doesn't sound right. I'm sure the oil
was fresh and new, supplied by the dealer. Check out your dipstick for burn
marks, off color brownish, possibly with almost a crispy looking gunk
buildup. Then remove your oil fill cap and rub your finger on the top of the
head and check for gunky residue. If you have either or both of the above,
the prior owner, was, most likely lazy or lousy on oil changes and preferred
to just add when really needed. Old oil loses it's viscosity and gradually
becomes acidic. Maybe that's why the seals went. If the rest of the truck
is "AOK," spend the money and be done with the headache. Just be sure that
your mech is honest and not a gouger. If your in doubt, ask around for a
good one and have him check it out. When the pan is off, have your mech
"TRUSTWORTHY" eyeball the underside and advise you if anything else has to be
done before he replaces the seals. If it's a mess and the rest of the truck
is your "cat's meow", get a short block. If it's clean, just have the seals
replaced Maybe that sounds a bit too simplistic but once the cloud is gone
your going to be back in luv with your truck. I replaced my old 79' F150,
351M with a 95' F250, 351 Windsor and am laying in hog heaven. I had a
couple of problems at first and did an "uh oh" just like you. Suffice it to
say, "I Luv my Truck!"
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 18:33:29 -0700
From: "Radoje Spasojevic"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Radius arm Bushings

For durability I would go with the poly bushings. There are those that say
the rubber bushings are better for off road because they are softer, but I
have also been told that the companies that make poly bushings make them to
be softer and firmer depending on the application. As far as grinding the
rivets off it is worth the extra effort if you plan on installing a lift in
the future, because that will be one less step for you to go through. The
method of dropping the axles is much less time consuming though.

Rade
- -----Original Message-----
From: Eric Sneed
To: '80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Thursday, September 16, 1999 8:51 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Radius arm Bushings


>I need to replace the radius arm bushings on my 89 150 and had a couple
>of questions.
>1. what grade, size bolts should I use once I grind off the rivets
>2. Should I use rubber or poly bushings, I called the dealer and
>they said that the front bushings are poly and the rear is rubber.
>3. Is grinding and beating the rivets out the best way to go?
>
>Any help would be appreciated
>
>Eric
>1989 F150 L6 4sp 4x4
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 21:27:22 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas Mileage

>The
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Blake Malkamaki
>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Date: Thursday, September 16, 1999 9:17 AM
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Gas Mileage
>
>
>The truck is a stock I6-300 for 1985. AOD(?) automatic transmission and I
>have no idea about the rear end. Standard tires 15". I haven't modified the
>truck at all really. Probably should given the mileage I get. I think it's
>all the emission stuff. Soem of it looks pretty loose and it might fall off
>some day, who knows?
>
>Michael McCarthy
>Export, PA
>

Since Pennsylvania only has emmissions checks in the big cities, and since
you don't live in Pittsburgh I presume you don't have any, I think I would
take the converter off and see if it improves. If you do have the checks,
maybe you need a new converter.

Do you know what your rear end ratio is? Does it seem that your engine is
always lugging too much? Maybe your engine is not running in its efficient
range. Try making a trip somewhere and not putting the transmission in
overdrive, just in drive, and see what your milage is. I think, in many
cases, overdrive can hurt milage.

Blake

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 21:51:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christopher Tirone ....


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