From: owner-80-96-list-digest ford-trucks.com (80-96-list-digest)
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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #247
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80-96-list-digest Saturday, September 4 1999 Volume 03 : Number 247



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 80-96 - cat converter
FTE 80-96 - brake caliper?
Re: FTE 80-96 - cat converter
Re: FTE 80-96 - brake caliper?
FTE 80-96 - Re: Diesel Pump Setting
RE: FTE 80-96 - dash repair
FTE 80-96 - Off list topic, 99 Mustangs and Cobras
FTE 80-96 - cat converter
Re: FTE 80-96 - Bearing surface discoloration
Re: FTE 80-96 - brake caliper?
FTE 80-96 - Re: Power Steering Box Leak
Re: FTE 80-96 - Bearing surface discoloration
FTE 80-96 - Instruments
FTE 80-96 - RE: bigger tires... mileage
Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Bigger Tires...Mileage
Re: FTE 80-96 - cat converter
Re: FTE 80-96 - cat converter
Re: FTE 80-96 - Synthetic Tranny & Transfer case oil
Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission clunk

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 07:42:34 -0400
From: Dave Heverin
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - cat converter

Wayne,

You must live in Maryland. I have an 88' F150 with ~185,000 miles. It gets
emissions tested every two years. At each testing the emissions output has
gone down, according to their tests. I have an aftermarket single catalytic
converter on my truck now with OEM replacement headers and a 3" Flowmaster
exhaust system.

Dave




- -----Original Message-----
From: FLR150 aol.com [mailto:FLR150 aol.com]
Sent: Friday, September 03, 1999 1:07 AM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - cat converter


In a message dated 9/1/99 9:45:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rbryan netgate.net writes:


removed >>
Sorry, I hate to say this...BUT YOU ARE WRONG!!! I have hit that big bump
and
lost my cats. I had it smogged right afterward and my truck, with many
performance mods, passed with flying colors. As a matter of fact, it was
burning cleaner than stock. If you haven't seen the results, don't guess.
Get
facts!
Later
Wayne Foy
'94 Flareside SC
Wayne's Page
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Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 07:46:43 -0400
From: Bob Hirsch
Subject: FTE 80-96 - brake caliper?

My 84 F150 4x4 has started pulling to the right side. It stops when I step on the brake pedal. There is also alot of brake dust on the right front wheel.
Seems like the caliper is stuck??
Any way to free it up short of replacing the caliper?

Thanks.
Bob
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 07:54:05 -0500
From: "Allen Collins"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - cat converter

I see from you message that you have a 94 F-150, and you live in South
Carolina, how are you able to remove your cats, even with a clean sniffer
test? I understand that there is a big fine for removing your cat
converter. When replacing it, you have to document it. Am I missing
something here?

Thanks

Al
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Friday, September 03, 1999 12:06 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - cat converter


> In a message dated 9/1/99 9:45:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> rbryan netgate.net writes:
>
>
> removed >>
> Sorry, I hate to say this...BUT YOU ARE WRONG!!! I have hit that big bump
and
> lost my cats. I had it smogged right afterward and my truck, with many
> performance mods, passed with flying colors. As a matter of fact, it was
> burning cleaner than stock. If you haven't seen the results, don't guess.
Get
> facts!
> Later
> Wayne Foy
> '94 Flareside SC
> Wayne's Page
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Oct 1999 05:57:43 -0700
From: Bob Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - brake caliper?

Sure, if the piston will release, make sure it's OK, no scores, burrs, etc. Then check the caliper sleeve for same. If they are OK, put them back together with
some new pads and all will be fine. If you note any scoring on the piston, replace it. If the caliper has more scoring than a light honing won't take care of,
replace it too.

Good Luck

Bob


Bob Hirsch wrote:

> My 84 F150 4x4 has started pulling to the right side. It stops when I step on the brake pedal. There is also alot of brake dust on the right front wheel.
> Seems like the caliper is stuck??
> Any way to free it up short of replacing the caliper?
>
> Thanks.
> Bob
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 09:47:39 EDT
From: JDavis1277 aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Diesel Pump Setting

Bill,

Naturally, it's not as simple to increase your fuel delivery as you have
assumed. :=) My 90 7.3 has a RoosaMaster (Stanadyne) rotary pump and I
assume yours also has that pump.

On mine there is a small plate secured by two screws toward the front of the
pump. It covers the timing marks on the main rotating member. To increase
fuel delivery, it is necessary to remove the plate.... rotate the engine
until a screw appears in the port where the plate was mounted.... using a
wrench or screwdriver rotate the screw about 1/2 turns clockwise.... replace
the cover and test. To avoid having to tow your boat to test the result, I
recommend you use the throttle snap test. Have a friend, spouse or whatever
quickly push the accelerator fully to the floor from idle and release it back
to the idle position. Do that a couple of times after the engine has reached
operating temperature. You observe the exhaust while this is being done. If
you have a piece of white cardboard or an old sheet to place behind the
exhaust while you observe, it will provide good contrast to help you judge
the darkness of the exhaust. If you feel the color has improved, a full
blown road test will be in order. If not, repeat until you are satisfied.
BTW, although it is common to reuse the plate gasket, you may need to replace
it and should have a spare on hand before making the adjustment. A fuel
system shop will have them if you can't find one at your parts store.

As it has been six years since I did this procedure (in conjunction with
installing an ATS turbo), I highly recommend you get a second opinion. Also,
your pump may be different from mine.

Good luck, Butch
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 09:41:57 -0600
From: "Giddens, Scott"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - dash repair

Larry,

I wouldn't bother with those plastic repair kits. IMHO, It's about the same
as not doing anything at all.

Check on those carpeted dash covers or those after market replacement
dashes. They are around 50 to 100 bucks but I would think they would last
longer though. I think you can get them at any auto parts store. I have seen
them advertised in catalogs and magazines.

Good luck,
Scott

- -----Original Message-----
From: Waddell [SMTP:waddell netnitco.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 1999 5:45 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - dash repair

Has anyone repaired the cracks in their dash using over the counter
materials and repainted? It sits alot in direct sunlite.



thanks for your replys

Larry
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 11:53:36 EDT
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Off list topic, 99 Mustangs and Cobras

I don't have access to this kind of info so, What is the diffrence between
the Mustang and Cobras? Talking New 99's, Just Cams and an apperance
package? The Cobra dosen't seem much faster than the regular stang, and I'm
trying to justify the 4 grand more it would cost for round fog lights and
diffrent fender badges...


thanks....

Joe
Lost in jersey
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Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 13:25:08 -0400
From: slikness mindspring.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - cat converter

Al,

First, who would levy the fine or even police the event?? Federal regulations require you to document the removal, but according to their guidelines, you would not be able to install cats, carbs, intake manifold or even an open carb filter. I swapped my I6 for a 351W and swapped out my huge single cat for a complete dual exhaust with two 12" (tip to tip) cats. I did not put my smog pump and associated air pipe back on the new engine and I had no problem passing inspection in NC.

Slik


>.. how are you able to remove your cats, even with a clean sniffer
test? I understand that there is a big fine for removing your cat
converter. When replacing it, you have to document it. Am I missing
something here?

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Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 18:20:13 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Bearing surface discoloration

At 00:25 03/09/99 -0700, Rade wrote:
>I pulled the drivers side hub and spindle apart tonight to repack the bears
>in preparation for my Rubicon trip next week. I noticed that on the spindle
>where both the outer and inner bearing rides there is some discoloration
>that looks almost like burn mark (except they are brownish). Anyway, there
>is no visible pitting or wear to the surface, just this slight
>discoloration. Is this anything to worry about?

When I have seen this I have replaced the bearings, because they, too, were
discolored as you describe, but I have not replaced the spindle if I could
not feel anything like scoring. I believe it is an indication that the
bearings were getting hot. Any other opinions?



Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD
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Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 18:17:53 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - brake caliper?

At 07:46 03/09/99 -0400, you wrote:
>My 84 F150 4x4 has started pulling to the right side. It stops when I
step on the brake pedal. There is also alot of brake dust on the right
front wheel.
>Seems like the caliper is stuck??
>Any way to free it up short of replacing the caliper?
>
Bob-
You MIGHT have a piston sticking inside the caliper assembly, but I doubt
it. If you do, you need to rebuild (or buy a rebuilt) caliper.

More likely the machined surfaces on the spindle and on the caliper where
they are supposed to SLIDE are corroded up and the whole caliper assembly
is not FLOATING like it is supposed to. This will result in slight pad
drag, a hot rotor (could lead to warping eventually) and excess brake dust
on the wheel.

This is so easy to fix. Jack up truck and remove wheel like you are going
to do a brake job, remove the caliper, clean the machined surfaces well (I
use a wire wheel in my electric drill) on both the spindle and the caliper,
apply a light coating of high temp wheel bearing grease to the machined
surfaces and reassemble. Takes about 15 minutes.

If pads are worn unevenly, replace them.

Pay attention to the orientation of the little anti-rattle clip on the
inside pad when you remove it, or you will introduce another annoyiong
little noise that several on the list have experienced when you put it back
on the wrong end.

On a truck this old, consider replacing all the brake spring hardware. Ford
sells a complete kit of all the little things that lose their spring with
heat and age. Holds everything together very snug. Worth doing about every
10-15 years or so!

Good luck!

Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 22:10:04 -0400
From: "Mark Salvetti"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Power Steering Box Leak

Greg, Bill, and everyone,

Thanks for the seal replacement advice on my PS Box. I've been crazy with
work lately, running around and going through about a quart of PS fluid each
day.

I bought the Pitman arm seal kit and I'll be tackling that tomorrow.

Thanks again for your help,

Mark Salvetti
1986 F150

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Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 21:44:31 -0500
From: Mike Persell
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Bearing surface discoloration

At 06:20 PM 9/3/99 -0500, you wrote:
>At 00:25 03/09/99 -0700, Rade wrote:
>
>When I have seen this I have replaced the bearings, because they, too, were
>discolored as you describe, but I have not replaced the spindle if I could
>not feel anything like scoring. I believe it is an indication that the
>bearings were getting hot. Any other opinions?

The discoloration is either the spindle/bearing getting hot or the grease
has broken
down and has oxidized or a combination of both. Either way I would replace
the bearing
if you can AND don't use the same grease again...it doesn't cut it.

Greases are very weird characters. Finding a good one is like finding an
honest politician.
In wheel bearings you want a grease that can stand up to 500 deg F for the
exposure to
the heat from the brakes, you want it to be waterproof (lithium is not),
you want it to contain paratac for cold rotation and the ability to stick
to the spindle (in the tube or the tub a grease should stick to your finger
and stretch at least half an inch, and you want a margin
of safety like molybdenum in the grease. I know of only a few that have all
this and they're
not available at the parts stores. Schaeffer Oil and Grease makes some, TRC
makes some,
a company named Lubrication Engineers made the strongest grease I've ever
tested and there's used to be an outfit called HydroTex that made some good
greases.

Off my soapbox for now.

Mike
85 F-150 Stepside
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Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 21:53:48 -0500
From: Mike Persell
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Instruments

Sure I talk too much about oil and grease but an electrician I'm not.

I have an 85 F-150 and the instruments are inconsistant but the temp. oil
pressure
an fuel are either too high or too low. I think the fuel gauge or sending
unit is also wacked
because full is okay but half tank registers as empty, after half tank I'm
on dead reckoning.

Also, anyone have any good methods for loosening the lower shock bolts on
the front
shocks?

Mike
85 F-150 Stepside
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 23:45:26 -0500
From: Paul M Radecki
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: bigger tires... mileage

> From: "Perkins, James"
> > Subject: FTE 80-96 - Bigger Tires?
> >
> > I am about to start driving my truck to work 50 miles roundtrip every

>day
> > and am thinking about trying to increase my gas mileage however I
can.
> > [snip]

I'm not convinced that bigger tires will help your mileage. Not
only will they add weight, they will also add height and therefore
aerodynamic drag to the truck. You can accomplish the same effect
cheaper and without side effects by changing your rearend gears to a
(numerically) lower ratio. What you want is a lowered stance, not
raised, and your tires should be narrow and high-pressure (for a small
contact patch) and made from a "hard" compound. These will give you
crappy traction, but reduced drag. Tractor-trailer tires are made this
way: they run over 100 psi! Other aerodynamic improvements such as a
tonneau cover might also help, and you might try synthetic fluids in your
engine, tranny, and rearend.
Having said all of that, I might add that you would probably save
more money over the long term by simply buying a motorcycle or small
secondhand car!

lordjanusz juno.com
'94 F150 300cid
'97 Saturn SW2 >30 mpg
'98 Honda VT1100 Aero >40mpg
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 02:03:32 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - RE: Bigger Tires...Mileage

>I have 32-11.5R15's on my 1991 F-150 4x4 without an body or suspension
>lift. They only rub against the arms in tight turns such as when
>parking. You will need a 4 inch lift if you want to clear 33's without
>any rubbing.
>

I have 33-9.50R15's on my 88 F-150 with no lift and no problem. No rubbing,
even with running boards - well maybe rub the arms a little, but just don't
turn that tight.

I am very happy with these tires- good wear and quiet. Lots of agresive
tread. They are Kelly Springfield MSR radials.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 02:09:54 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - cat converter

>i have a 89 f-150 4x4 302. i was wondering what is the purpose of 2 cats on
>it? i'm thinking of pulling the second one off and doing some exhaust work
>but thought i should see why its there first. thanks.
>

My 88 had duel exhaust, cheapo headers, and no cats. Since the headers were
rusting out, I bought new shorty headers and went with an original Y-pipe
with 2 converters and no muffler whatsoever. The truck runs better with the
Y-pipe and converters than it did with the duels and no converter. It is
very quiet too. Much more than with 2 mufflers.


Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 02:10:41 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - cat converter

>It has 2 catrs because it could nbot meet the EPA limits with one. One
>works on the unburned HC's and CO, the other on NOX (as I recall; I'm too
>lazy to go pull a text book to confirm). Removing either is a violation of
>federal law and subject to $10,000 fine. YMMV.
>

The fine is only for a professional repair facility removing it.

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 02:20:17 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Synthetic Tranny & Transfer case oil

>I want to replace the oil with synthetic. I plan to do the engine oil
>myslef, but will take the truck in for the tranny and transfer case. I
>took the truck to a couple of shops, and neither seemed interested in
>doing this for me. Both tried to talk me out of it, and just wanted to
>use spec. oil. Neither one seemed too knowledgable of the advantages
>of it, or of where to get the product. Are they just pulling my chain,
>or what? Winters up here in canada get pretty severe and I want to give
>my trcuk all the help I can.
>

Why would you want to do that? I see no advantage. Most people have a hard
enough time keeping ATF fluid in there. Maybe some 50 weight synthetic
would work.

Blake
Little Mountain
Concord, Ohio
Early Oil Well Historian http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/oilwell
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://little-mountain.com/blake
"Society is safest when the criminals don't know who's armed."
"An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject...."


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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 02:23:16 -0500
From: Blake Malkamaki
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Transmission clunk

>I've got a 89 F150 with the I6 and Mazda 5 speed transmission.
>Usually when I stop at a light, I shift into neutral and release the
>clutch. But lately I've noticed that when I shift back into first,
>the drivetrain makes a clunk noise. After experimenting some, I
>found that if I shift into 4th gear first then shift to first, there
>is no clunk.
>
>Anybody got any ideas? If my transmission is going bad, is there a
>"simple" transmission swap or should I just start saving up for a
>Mazda transmission rebuild?
>

Mine does this sometimes, but I think it is in the Auburn Gear limited slip
rearend.
....


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