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Subject: 80-96-list-digest V3 #245
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80-96-list-digest Thursday, September 2 1999 Volume 03 : Number 245



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - '93 Transfer Case Won't Transfer
Re: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Box Leak
FTE 80-96 - Starting problem, solved...
Re: FTE 80-96 - 8.8" Is Bleeding...
RE: FTE 80-96 - 8.8" Is Bleeding...
FTE 80-96 - Hub problem solved - new question!
Re: FTE 80-96 - Bigger Tires?
FTE 80-96 - Synthetic Tranny & Transfer case oil
Re: FTE 80-96 - Bigger Tires?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Synthetic Tranny & Transfer case oil
FTE 80-96 - cat converter
Re: FTE 80-96 - cat converter
Re: FTE 80-96 - cat converter
FTE 80-96 - Drive line questions
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac specifications
Re: FTE 80-96 - cat converter
Re: FTE 80-96 - Bigger Tires?
Re: FTE 80-96 - Bigger Tires?
FTE 80-96 - cat converter

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 07:33:58 -0400
From: "Michael Zamalis"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - '93 Transfer Case Won't Transfer

My 93 F150 has that stupid electronic shift transfer case. I don't know
what's so hard about pulling a lever, but apparently somebody convinced Ford
that a button would be better.

Well, mine quit working. I tracked the problem down to either the
Electronic Shift control module, or one of the sensors feeding it (gearshift
position, speed, etc).

When I asked the local dealer, of course I got the story that its an
involved procedure and I should bring it in.

My Haynes manual is all but useless when it comes to anything like this.
All it does is give a brief description of what it does, and that's it.
Does anyone else have any experience with this thing or have a manual that
tells how to test the module and/or sensors? (Nothing shows up in the
codes)

Thanks
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Zamalis [mailto:michael.zamalis york.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 1999 12:50 PM
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: '93 Transfer Case Won't Transfer


I've got a '93 F150 4x4, 5.0, with an E4OD and an electronic shift transfer
case.

Over the last several months, the transfer case would sometimes work and
sometimes it wouldn't. When it used to work and I'd push the 4x4 button I
could hear something that sounded like a relay clicking up under the glove
box just before the case would shift. Now when I push the button - Nothing!

Any thoughts or comments? Anybody else have this trouble or know the cure?

MZ


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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 08:17:35 EDT
From: RiTruckGuy aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Power Steering Box Leak

There is a rebuild kit available for about $15.....really easy to do. You
just need to remove the pitman arm, and then the sector shaft will unbolt
from the top of the steering box. You don't need to remove the box from the
truck to replace the lower seal.

Good luck,
Bill
'97 F150 Supercab 4x4 Off Road 4.6L
'82 F100 Flareside 300
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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 07:28:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: Kourtney Ray de Haas
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Starting problem, solved...

Greetings again,

With regard to my recent post about my truck's starting problem, I
followed my hunches (and the suggestions of several others regarding
grounding the engine block, etc) and replaced the battery and negative
battery cable. Now the truck runs fine, and the new starter sounds a lot
better than the old one. I didn't spend too much and only scraped the
skin off a few of my knuckles.

Kourtney de Haas
Austin, Texas



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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 07:29:08 -0700
From: "Steve Schmeckpeper"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 8.8" Is Bleeding...

Personally, I don't like silicone sealers 'cause they're hard to remove.
Permatex "Form-A-Gasket" #2B works for me. Don't have to mess around with
that bead stuff either.....just smear it on. And it's easy to get off too
;^) I believe 90wt is recommended so I'm using 80w90 in my axle (Valvolene
Durablend semi-synthetic). 140wt sounds a little on the heavy side to me.
Smeck....87 F150 302 T-18 8.8

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Brent McNabb
To:
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 1999 3:08 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 8.8" Is Bleeding...


> Admittedly, I'm not very good at making a silicone sealant bead, but I
> thought I did a good job this time. I've recently changed out the
> bearings and seals in my '86 F-150 with a 8.8" rear end. My problem
> is, after the axle warms up, it starts leaking gear oil, from the
> cover.
>
> My questions are, what kind of silicone sealer is best? I've been
> using Permatex Ultra Blue in a 1/8" bead. My Haynes manual doesn't
> give a bead size, nor an aftermarket sealer suggestion, just a Ford
> part number. I despise making sealant beads, is there any kind of
> sealant that you just wipe on?
>
> Also, I refilled the axle with 80w140 gear oil, since once again, my
> Haynes manual specified no specific weight, just a GL number to look
> for. It is GL-5 rated, but what is the recommended weight?
>
>
>
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>

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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 09:27:08 -0400
From: Greg Carter
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - 8.8" Is Bleeding...

You want 80W90 especially if you live where it gets cold.



>Also, I refilled the axle with 80w140 gear oil, since once again, my
>Haynes manual specified no specific weight, just a GL number to look
>for. It is GL-5 rated, but what is the recommended weight?



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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 07:41:32 -0700
From: "Ken Brayton"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Hub problem solved - new question!

Thanks for the help in solving my hub problem. The spindle
bearing was junk. In fact, it turns out that the spindle
itself was bent! Replaced the spindle and front axle (it was
badly scored). Everything went back together just fine.

Also, thanks to this list, I've discovered the reason why my
horn/cruise control doesn't work. As you might recall, I
messed up trying to get the steering wheel off. Used an
insert and was able to get the wheel off. Then discovered
that poorly engineered electrical ribbon assembly had indeed
broken in two. Dealer has ordered the part to the tune of
$101. Ouch!

New question: While putting the hub back on, I noticed a
little bit of up and down play on the passenger side. There
is no side-to-side or back and forth motion, just up and
down.There is no equivalent play on the driver's side. It's
not from having the wheel bearings too loose. I
double-checked that. I don't have my manual in front of me
so I don't know the name of this part, but the play seems to
be coming from what looks like the assembly at the end of
the suspension frame. There is a really large bolt at the
top of this thing with a cotter pin stuck through it. Is
this something that needs fixing too? Any insight would be
appreciated.

Ken Brayton
Albany Oregon
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.triax.com/~brayton



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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 09:27:28 -0700
From: redmist mb.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Bigger Tires?

Perkins, James wrote:
>
> I am about to start driving my truck to work 50 miles roundtrip every day
> and am thinking about trying to increase my gas mileage however I can. It
> seems to me that the cheapest and easiest way to do that would be to fit a
> set of oversize tires to effectively lower my axle ratio.
>
> I have pencilled out some numbers and am thinking that by going from the
> stock P235/75's to 32x11.50 LT's I could lower my effective axle ratio and
> RPMs by a little under 10%. Assuming that this would also increase my
> mileage by 10%, that would seem to be translate into enough real dollars to
> make it worth the effort, assuming I don't have any real cost to make the
> change since I already need new tires. Since I am running a 351 with a 3.55
> rear end and will be travelling empty, I have to believe that my truck will
> still be very driveable with this change.
>
> My question is whether anyone else has done something similar and can tell
> me:
>
> 1. Will 32x11.50 LT's easily fit on my truck without modifications? How
> about 33x12.50's?
>
> 2. Can the speedo be corrected by a simply gear change? If so, is it easily
> reversible so I can pull off the tires if I want to tow something heavy?
>
> 3. Will I actually get a fuel mileage increase that will make it worth the
> effort? I recognize that it would take awhile to pay for the tires to do
> this, but since I need tires anyway it doesn't seem like it will really cost
> me too much to make the change.
>
> 4. Will this change cause any driveability or other problems/differences I
> haven't thought about?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Jim Perkins
> '91 F150 4X4 SC
> Spokane, WA
>
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I have 32X11.5's BFG MT's on my 94 F150. They rub on the control arms ,
and I had to trim front bumper airdam, but no big deal really. They
donn't handle as well on or off the highway as the original 235's with
my factory 7.5" aluminum wheels (too wide for the tire) which makes for
a sloppy feel and some wandering. If I underinflate them to get the
tread to wear evenly (touch the ground all the way across the tread
instead of just a strip down the middle), it makes the ride extra
squishy and sloppy. It also takes a lot more power, the tranny hunts
more, and the gas mileage drops off drastically!

If I put more pressure in the tires, most of the handling problems go
away, although gravel roads are still a problem at high speeds whereas
235's weren't, but I suspect this is just a wider tire quirk. It still
lacks a bit of power and the tranny still hunts a bit in high winds but
mine is a 302 with an E40D and 3.31 axles. I haven't noticed any fuel
savings, and in fact I think it is harder on gas than before even when
inflated quite high. BTW, when inflating the tires to workable highwasy
pressures of 28-32, the truck rides extremely rough.

My suggestions are to go with wider rims if you get these tires. 8"
minimum, but 10" is even better. This will solove the handling problems
without having to overinflate the tires, and may even help with the
mileage loss. I don't believe you'll get much better than you have now
if any.

The other piece of advice i have is: either lift the truck (expensive
with IFS), or if you want to keep your rims, run 31X10.5's. They wilol
still look great and should eliminate the headaches (although minor)
that you will find with 32's. Most people suggested I stick with
30X9.5's or 31x10.5's but I chose to go bigger anyway. No matter which
way you go, if you have an electronic dash, let me know and I can give
you instrcutions on how to easily change your speedo right through the
trip odometer and reset buttons.

Good luck!!

Sheldon Charron,
Manitoba, Canada

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 09:41:16 -0700
From: redmist mb.sympatico.ca
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Synthetic Tranny & Transfer case oil

I want to replace the oil with synthetic. I plan to do the engine oil
myslef, but will take the truck in for the tranny and transfer case. I
took the truck to a couple of shops, and neither seemed interested in
doing this for me. Both tried to talk me out of it, and just wanted to
use spec. oil. Neither one seemed too knowledgable of the advantages
of it, or of where to get the product. Are they just pulling my chain,
or what? Winters up here in canada get pretty severe and I want to give
my trcuk all the help I can.

TIA,

Sheldon Charron,
Manitoba, Canada

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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 10:07:51 -0600
From: "Robert N. Deruy"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Bigger Tires?

James Perkins wrote:

>I am about to start driving my truck to work 50 miles roundtrip every day
>and am thinking about trying to increase my gas mileage however I can. It
>seems to me that the cheapest and easiest way to do that would be to fit a
>set of oversize tires to effectively lower my axle ratio.
>
>I have pencilled out some numbers and am thinking that by going from the
>stock P235/75's to 32x11.50 LT's I could lower my effective axle ratio and
>RPMs by a little under 10%. Assuming that this would also increase my
>mileage by 10%, that would seem to be translate into enough real dollars to
>make it worth the effort, assuming I don't have any real cost to make the
>change since I already need new tires. Since I am running a 351 with a 3.55
>rear end and will be travelling empty, I have to believe that my truck will
>still be very driveable with this change.
>
>My question is whether anyone else has done something similar and can tell
>me:
>
>1. Will 32x11.50 LT's easily fit on my truck without modifications? How
>about 33x12.50's?

Yep, might be a slight rub at full steering lock, but this is more
dependent on wheel offset.

>2. Can the speedo be corrected by a simply gear change? If so, is it easily
>reversible so I can pull off the tires if I want to tow something heavy?

Don't know, never bothered. The factory speedo is inaccurate anyway.

>3. Will I actually get a fuel mileage increase that will make it worth the
>effort? I recognize that it would take awhile to pay for the tires to do
>this, but since I need tires anyway it doesn't seem like it will really cost
>me too much to make the change.

I don't know. I've noticed very little distance in consumption. 10% is a
small difference, and there will be some parasitic lost, extra wind
resistance, tire weight. Braking will be affected.

>4. Will this change cause any driveability or other problems/differences I
>haven't thought about?

I use this combo for my daily driver/tow rig. I tow a 6000 pound Scout II
on a 1200 pound trailer. Would I rather have a 3/4 ton, yep. Does it do the
job, yep. And it's a good ride around town.

Deja Fu: The feeling that somehow, somewhere, you've been kicked in the
head like this before.
Bob Deruy (mailto:BobXian netutah.com)
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.off -road. com /~cc4wd


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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 12:36:05 -0500
From: Mike Persell
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Synthetic Tranny & Transfer case oil

redmist mb.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> I want to replace the oil with synthetic. I plan to do the engine oil
> myslef, but will take the truck in for the tranny and transfer case. >I took the truck to a couple of shops, and neither seemed interested in
> doing this for me. Both tried to talk me out of it, and just wanted >to use spec. oil. Neither one seemed too knowledgable of the >advantages of it, or of where to get the product. Are they just >pulling my chain, or what?

Many synthetics in the early days were good products but sold by
questionable methods and/or people. This along with the general
mystery of lubrication leads to fear of synthetics.

Look for a Mobil distributor or a seller of other name brand synthetics
and see of they know of a shop that will change out the oil for you.

Mike
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 17:35:57 PDT
From: 2insane excite.com
Subject: FTE 80-96 - cat converter

i have a 89 f-150 4x4 302. i was wondering what is the purpose of 2 cats on
it? i'm thinking of pulling the second one off and doing some exhaust work
but thought i should see why its there first. thanks.




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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 20:37:08 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - cat converter

It has 2 catrs because it could nbot meet the EPA limits with one. One
works on the unburned HC's and CO, the other on NOX (as I recall; I'm too
lazy to go pull a text book to confirm). Removing either is a violation of
federal law and subject to $10,000 fine. YMMV.

At 17:35 01/09/99 PDT, you wrote:
>i have a 89 f-150 4x4 302. i was wondering what is the purpose of 2 cats on
>it? i'm thinking of pulling the second one off and doing some exhaust work
>but thought i should see why its there first. thanks.


Jim Cannon
Houston, TX
'29 Ford Model A Phaeton '63 Buick Riviera 401 V-8
'80 Ford F-150 300 I-6 2WD
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 18:42:24 -0700
From: "Rob Bryan"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - cat converter

> i have a 89 f-150 4x4 302. i was wondering what is the purpose of 2 cats on
> it? i'm thinking of pulling the second one off and doing some exhaust work
> but thought i should see why its there first. thanks.

The 2 cats make up the "3 way converter" system, so can't just yank one.
Most cars accomplish all three processes in one case, but for some reason,
on trucks (Mustangs were like this as well), they split up the work.
Needless to say you will not pass a smog inspection with one of them
removed. You can get a single, 3-way, high-flow catcon and replace both,
while being legal and increasing power over what you would get by just
removing one.

Rob
'90 Bronco 5.8
'93 PGT 2.5
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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 22:58:36 -0400
From: "Jeff Colwander"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Drive line questions

I'm trying to find out what the gear ratios are for my tranny. By the
number I got off the pillar it's a Clark 4 sp OD. It's in an 83 F150
with a 300 I6 and 2.47 rear axle (any hints on how to find out
what kind it is are appreciated too).

Also thoughts on good flywheel/clutch combos would help too. That's next on
the shopping list. I will be adding a 4bbl carb, intake manifold, exhaust
headders, cam and some work on the block/head. But for now I'll be
happy just driving it again.

Thanks,
Jeff

1998 Saturn SL2 - Solo2 CSP/ST
1983 Ford F150 300 cid - almost back from the dead!
ICQ# 22909943 AOL IM: SGTSL2
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/no_rice

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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 22:44:11 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac specifications

Check out the news section of the web site for
2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac specifications.

Ken Payne
Admin


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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 21:37:28 -0500
From: "Allen Collins"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - cat converter

Hello to the list,

I own an 86 F-150 with a 302. It has only one catalytic converter, stock
exhaust system. I am wanting to improve the exhaust flow and want opinions
on what is the most cost efficient way of going about this. I am not just
real fond of headers, but would like a true dual exhaust system. However, I
have not found an economical source for cat converters. I have been looking
at the aftermarket cat back systems but I am leary about how effective they
are, especially when it comes to the price of the systems.

Just wondering what you guys have done. Future upgrades possible, but need
a good exhaust first.

Thanks

Al

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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 22:19:53 -0500
From: "Ed Mount"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Bigger Tires?

Sheldon,
I don't have the bigger tires on my 94 F150, just the 265's, but my odometer
is off by 5%, and I suspect my speedometer is off by the same amount. I
would like to know your secret for making adjustment to this.
Thanks in advance
Ed


| No matter which
|way you go, if you have an electronic dash, let me know and I can give
|you instrcutions on how to easily change your speedo right through the
|trip odometer and reset buttons.
|

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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 22:42:42 -0700
From: redmist mb.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Bigger Tires?

Ed Mount wrote:
>
> Sheldon,
> I don't have the bigger tires on my 94 F150, just the 265's, but my odometer
> is off by 5%, and I suspect my speedometer is off by the same amount. I
> would like to know your secret for making adjustment to this.
> Thanks in advance
> Ed

Here it is. Enjoy.

Here is the BEST way to calibrate your electronic
speedometer.
Don't try to calculate tire size, wheel diameter,
revolutions per minute
etc. because this is all speculation and is subject to
unknown error.
Simply drive a known distance from point A to point B and
measure this
using your tripmeter. You can do this by using mile markers
along the
freeway. The odometer and the speedometer are always
related.
You change one and the other will change. Therefore, if you
drive 10 miles and your odometer says you only went 8 miles,
you need
to increase the conversion constant by 20 percent. The
conversion constant
is simply a numerical factor like 980 that will appear when
your speedo
is in the calibration mode as explained below. This sounds
difficult but
is much easier than trying to calibrate a gear driven
speedo.
NOTE: The module can only be reprogrammed SIX TIMES.
Locate the dealer mode programming enable single-terminal
connector.
The connector is located at the bottom of the instrument
panel below the center
of the glove box. On all vehicles, the dealer mode enable
wire is Circuit 567(LB/Y).
Insert a jumper wire or alligator clip in service wire and
clip other end to vehicle
ground with the key in the OFF position. Turn key to RUN
while holding down the
trip odometer RESET button on the speedometer. Release
RESET button.
The Speedometer will prove out(sweep across dial and back).
The English/Metric and revision levels will be displayed.
The last number of
the display id the dealer mode lockout count. This count
shows the number
of allowable conversion constant changes remaining. When
the count is zero
(0), no additional changes can be made to this instrument
cluster. If a
revision is required a service instrument cluster must be
ordered. Press and
release RESET button again and PSOM conversion constant
without
the decimal point will be displayed followed by the word
CAL. Press and
release the odometer SELECT button as many times as
necessary to change
the conversion constant to the correct value.
Note: Pressing and releasing the RESET button to lock in
the new
conversion constant reduces the number of times the PSOM can
be
reprogrammed by one count. If you change your mind and want
to go back to
the old conversion constant, turn the key OFF BEFORE you
lock in the new
constant. When the new correct value is displayed in the
odometer window,
press and release the RESET button to lock in the new
conversion constant.
Turn the key OFF and disconnect the ground wire and check to
see that the
speedo works correctly.

Here is few extra tips for you.

This PSOM connector is located exactly below the glove
compartment in precisely in the middle. It is a one wire
connector the designation Circuit 567(LB/Y) means that the
wire is LightBlue/with a Yellow stripe.
The connector is attached to a plastic tab and has the
letters PSOM stamped on it, you can't miss it. Just clip on
an alligator clip with wire to the connector pin (brass tab)
and clip the other end to ground - any bolt that is attached
to the metal of the body. The object here is to short that
wire to ground which can be done many different ways.

The most important thing is to make your adjustment
correctly. You need an accurate measurement of the distance
you travel compared to your odometer. Then you can figure
out what percent your speedo is off and adjust the
"constant" number accordingly.

You reduce the constant when going UP in tire size. This is the
direction it will naturally want to go. ie. a countdown.

You increase the constant to go to smaller tires. In order to do this
(or if you overshoot your target constant number) you will have to go
all the way down to about 500 or 600 (can't remember) and then it will
wrap back up to 1100 and start counting back down from there. In my
case, I believe the truck was factory set at 967. I had to go down to
about 880 if I remember right, or reduce the constant by about 8.9%.....


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